Sudan Travel Guide

This is a Sudan Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: December 2025

Introduction

Sudan has been on my travel wish list for many years and I was close to organising a trip in 2023 when the outbreak of war scuttled my plans.

I had always dreamt of visiting the Pyramids of Meroë, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most significant archaeological sites in Africa, and indeed the world!

Once the internal turmoil had calmed in the east of the country (fighting still continues in the west), I contacted Osman Bashir, the owner of Travel Sudan Tours, and expressed interest in travelling to Sudan with his company, but only if I could visit the pyramids.

I made it clear that I was not interested in doing one of his standard 1-night transit packages in Port Sudan which have become popular with travellers wishing to ‘tick’ Sudan off of their UN country tick list.

In late November (2025), Osman contacted me to advised that the authorities were finally willing to issue an internal travel permit which would allow me to undertake the 600 km (10 hour) journey by road from Port Sudan to the pyramids, which lie just 270 km north of Khartoum.

The situation in the east of Sudan has been calm for some time and the authorities are keen for things to return to normal.

I would be the first foreigner to be issued with such a travel permit, but hopefully it will start a trend which will see more travellers (definitely intrepid ones at this stage) return to the interior of Sudan to visit what is one of the most amazing archaeological sites on this planet – the outstandingly beautiful Pyramids of Meroë.

Due to the timing of my trip, I spent a very special Christmas Day, 2025, at the Pyramids of Meroë, the first foreigner to visit the complex since the outbreak of war in April 2023.

Osman tailored a 6-day itinerary for me which included visiting Pyramids of Meroë, Port Sudan, Arous Beach, Arkawit and Suakin.

With the amount of driving to reach the pyramids (10 hours each way from Port Sudan), both Osman and I agreed that a 7-day itinerary would be a little more relaxed.

There is a comfortable Qatari-built resort at Meroë which would be ideal for 2 nights rather than just 1!

For contact details for Osman and Travel Sudan Tours, please refer to the ‘Tour Company‘ section below.

Sudan is a vast and culturally rich country in northeastern Africa which lies at the crossroads of the Arabic world and Sub-Saharan Africa.

It’s a place of large open spaces, vast desert landscapes, the towering Red Sea Mountains, the life-giving Nile River and the inviting Red Sea.

For intrepid travellers seeking authentic experiences and ancient heritage far from mass tourism, Sudan remains one of the most compelling and enigmatic destinations in the world.

Travel Safety

During my time in Sudan, I never felt unsafe nor in danger.

My guide Osman and my driver, Shaheen, always exercised a high degree of caution and never took risks.

The Sudanese were very friendly and welcoming.

My trip to Sudan was very safe and almost uneventful and one which I would do again anytime!

Travelling into a country which is still at war (at least in the west) and a country for which most governments have issued ‘DO NOT TRAVEL’ travel advisories is not for everyone.

Travelling to Sudan at this stage can be rewarding, but is ultimately a personal decision based on your own risk profile.

Most insurance companies do not provide insurance for ‘DO NOT TRAVEL’ countries, however IATI Seguros of Spain do issue policies.

For more information, please refer to the ‘Travel Insurance‘ section below.

I would recommend it to any intrepid traveller!

A Travel Milestone!

A personal travel milestone was celebrated by me in Sudan!

It was my final UN country (#193/ 193) to visit and my guide, the wonderful, and very thoughtful, Osman from Travel Sudan Tours surprised me with a delicious, and very rich, chocolate cake from Poco Loco – the best cake shop in Port Sudan – and possibly in the whole of Sudan!

Along with a Sudanese flag for this flag geek, this was a wonderful way to celebrate my final UN country.

For those who know me, you will know that my travel focus is more than the 193 UN countries – which account for just 75% of populated travel destinations around the world.

My focus is the UN+ List, which accounts for 100% of all populated travel destinations – a list which includes all UN countries + dependent territories + unrecognised (break-away) states. These total 251 of which Sudan was #247 of 251 for me.

I have 2 territories and 2 break-away states remaining to visit.

You can learn more about the UN+ list and view (and download) my Country and Territory List on Taste2travel.

Location

Port Sudan, Sudan

Sudan is located in Northeast Africa, positioned at the crossroads between Sub-Saharan Africa and the Arab world.

Once the largest country in Africa (before South Sudan declared its independence), Sudan shares land borders with the following countries:

• North: Egypt
• East: Eritrea and Ethiopia
• South: South Sudan
• West: Central African Republic and Chad
• Northwest: Libya

Sudan sits just south of the Sahara Desert, with arid landscapes in the north and more savannah and fertile regions toward the south.

The country has a significant Red Sea coastline, being approximately 853 kilometres (530 miles) in length, providing access to maritime trade and linking it to the Middle East.

The main city on the coast, Port Sudan, is currently serving as the de-facto administrative capital of the country while war-ravaged Khartoum is being rehabilitated.

The Red Sea coast is separated from the vast interior by the Red Sea Mountains.

One of the main features of the interior is the meandering Nile River, including the White Nile and Blue Nile, which flows through Sudan and meets in the capital, Khartoum, forming the main Nile that flows north to Egypt.

Sudan’s location gives it a strategic position between Africa and the Middle East, with diverse climates and landscapes across its large territory.

History

A brief history of Sudan!

Early History

Sudan has a long and complex history shaped by ancient civilizations, trade, and foreign rule.

In antiquity, the region was home to the Kingdom of Kush (c. 2500 BCE–350 CE), a powerful Nubian civilisation that rivalled ancient Egypt and even ruled it for a time.

Later, Christian kingdoms such as Nobatia, Makuria, and Alodia dominated northern Sudan between the 6th and 14th centuries.

From the 14th century onward, Islam and Arab culture spread through trade and migration, leading to the rise of Muslim sultanates like Funj and Darfur.

Ottoman Rule

In 1821, Egyptian-Ottoman forces invaded and conquered much of northern and central Sudan, beginning what Sudanese history calls the Turkiyya (Turkish rule).

Although it was part of the Ottoman Empire, real power was exercised by Egypt’s rulers on the empire’s behalf.

British Rule

British rule in Sudan lasted from 1898 to 1956 and is commonly known as the Anglo-Egyptian Condominium.

Although Sudan was officially governed jointly by Britain and Egypt, Britain held real power throughout this period.

The era shaped Sudan’s modern borders, institutions, and many of its later political problems.

Independence

Post-independence history has been marked by civil wars, military coups, and political instability, including the long north–south conflict that led to the independence of South Sudan in 2011.

Current Conflict

The Sudan war is now widely described by international agencies as one of the worst humanitarian crises in the world, combining elements of civil war, displacement, famine, and systemic collapse.

The current war began on 15 April 2023 as a power struggle between two rival military leaders who had jointly led the country:

• General Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, commander of the Sudanese Armed Forces (SAF)
• General Mohamed Hamdan “Hemedti” Dagalo, leader of the powerful para-military Rapid Support Forces (RSF).

Their split quickly erupted into full-scale armed conflict across the country, engulfing major cities, rural areas, and border regions.

The conflict has spread across most of Sudan’s 18 states, including in the capital of Khartoum, Darfur, Kordofan and South Kordofan.

The humanitarian impact has been considerable with tens of thousands of people killed, with many thousands more wounded in direct fighting.

Millions have been displaced internally and abroad – one of the largest displacement crises in the world.

Due to its remoteness and difficulty of access – through the Red Sea Mountains – the coastal area, which includes Port Sudan has been left largely untouched, although some drone attacks have targeted key infrastructure, including Port Sudan International Airport.

Port Sudan currently serves as the de-facto capital of Sudan while Khartoum is slowly being rehabilitated after being destroyed, and looted, by the RSF.

Over nearly three years of conflict, ceasefires and peace talks have repeatedly failed to stop the fighting.

Attempts at negotiated pauses have been short-lived.

The RSF are backed by some powerful backers, including the UAE and Libyan governments, with the latter allowing important supplies to flow through Libya to the RSF.

While ever these backers continue to provide arms, especially sophisticated drones, the war will continue.

For now, the situation in the east of Sudan (which is controlled by the Sudanese Armed Forces) is stable, although the situation remains volatile and subject to change.

Just one week before my trip, drone attacks targeted a power station in Atbara which was one of the cities we passed through.

A volatile situation!

Tour Company

My trip to Sudan was made possible by the very efficient and well-organised Osman Bashir, who is the owner/ operator of Travel Sudan Tours.

My 6-day trip was tailored to my specific request which was to travel beyond the usual Port Sudan sites, to the interior of Sudan, to visit the Pyramids of Meroë, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most impressive archaeological monuments anywhere in Africa.

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Video: Driving on the highway in Sudan with Travel Sudan Tours.

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What was needed for such a trip was a special travel permit which authorised me to travel interstate from Red Sea State (Port Sudan) to River Nile State (Meroë).

Osman took care of the permit application which took 24 hours to issue and can only be issued on a week day.

I was the first foreign tourist to be issued with such a permit and the first foreign tourist to visit the Pyramids at Meroë since the start of the civil war in April of 2023.

Tour Itinerary 

• Day 1: Arrive Port Sudan then drive to Arous (stopping in Port Sudan to submit my travel authorisation for the journey to Meroë)
• Day 2: Arous to Port Sudan (collect travel authorisation for Meroë)
• Day 3: Port Sudan to Pyramids of Meroë
• Day 4: Pyramids of Meroë to Arkawit
• Day 5: Arkawit to Suakin then onto Port Sudan
• Day 6 Depart Port Sudan

Tour Cost

Please contact Osman who will provide a price based on your requirements.

Tour Inclusi0ns

• Private Car Transportation
• English Speaking Guide
• Accommodation
• Airport transfers
• Food (Dinner & Breakfast)
• Bottled water
• Boat tour to explore Red Sea Diving Resort
• Invitation Letter
• Security
• Entrance fees
• Travel/movement permit
• Local Taxes

Tour Exclusions

• Sudan Visa fees (Document Permit Fees is €350 plus US$100 cash on arrival fee)
• Diving/Snorkeling (optional)
• Others things not mentioned above
• Tips
• Any personal purchases

During the trip, our driver, Shaheen, cooked a number of meals which were all very delicious.

His lentil soup is the best I have ever tasted!

When planning a trip to Sudan, I would highly recommend Travel Sudan Tours.

Contact Details: 

• Web: www.tours.sd
• Email: info@tours.sd
• Phone (WhatsApp): +249 12 223 7576
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TSudanTours/
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tsudantours/

People

The people of Sudan are diverse, culturally rich, and shaped by a long history at the crossroads of Africa and the Arab world.

Sudanese society reflects a blend of Arab, African, and Indigenous Nilotic influences, resulting in a vibrant mosaic of languages, traditions, and lifestyles.

Sudan is home to various ethnic groups such as:

• Arab Sudanese, who form a large portion of the population and traditionally live in the northern and central regions.
• African ethnic groups, including Nubians, Fur, Beja, Nuba peoples, Dinka, Shilluk, and many others, each with their own cultural identities and histories.
• Nomadic and semi-nomadic communities, such as the Baggara and Rashaida, who maintain traditional pastoralist lifestyles.

This diversity has shaped Sudan’s music, clothing, food, architecture, and festivals.

As for language, Arabic is the official and most widely spoken language while English is also sometimes used, especially in business.

Tip: Most Sudanese do not speak English and an Arabic-speaking interpreter is useful.

As for religion, the majority of Sudanese people are Muslim, predominantly Sunni.

Flag

Like many flags in the region, the flag of Sudan features the pan-Arab colours of red, white, black and green.

The design of the flag is a horizontal tricolour of Red (top), White (middle) and Black (bottom) with a green triangle extending from the hoist (left) side.

The red represents the struggle for independence and the sacrifices made by the Sudanese people.

White symbolises peace, optimism, and the nation’s bright future, while Black stands for Sudan itself – “Bilad as-Sudan” means “land of the black people.”

Green reflects Islam, agriculture, prosperity, and Sudan’s natural richness.

Currency

The currency of Sudan is the Sudanese pound, which trades under the international currency code of SDG.

One Sudanese pound = 100 piastres, though piastres are rarely used in daily transactions.

Currency is issued by the Central Bank of Sudan (CBoS) with banknotes issued in denominations of SDG500, SDG1,000 and SDG2,000.

Liquidity Crisis

Since the start of the current hostilities in 2023, Sudan has suffered a severe cash shortage, with ordinary people feeling the pinch of the liquidity crisis.

Observers attribute these issues to the suspension of banking services in areas controlled by the RSF.

In contrast, areas under the control of the Sudanese Armed Forces, including the administrative capital Port Sudan, are experiencing relatively better financial conditions due to more stable banking operations services.

Currency Exchange

While the current official exchange rate for the US dollar is quoted around SDG600 to US$1, the black-market rate is around 5x more at SDG3,300 to US$1.

Informal money changers can be found in downtown Port Sudan, around the Basiri Plaza Hotel.

It’s best to carry brand new US$100 notes to Sudan as these attract the highest rate, whereas lower denomination notes, or notes in poor condition, attract a lesser rate.

I exchanged US$100 for SDG330,000 in Port Sudan.

The most common note in circulation is SDG1,000 – although a new SDG2,000 is also in circulation, albeit less common.

Being equal to 33 cents, it takes many SDG1,000 notes to pay for common expenses – like dinner in a restaurant.

I paid for dinner in one restaurant in Port Sudan which had a banknote counting machine installed next to their cash register!

My dinner cost SDG42,000 (US$12.72) which was paid for with 42 x SDG1,000 notes.

These notes were simply fed into the note counting machine for verification.

Since the highest value note in circulation (SDG2,000) is equal to just 66 cents, paying for everyday items requires carrying large wads of cash.

Thanks to technology, the Sudanese do not have to handle wads of cash!

Electronic Payments

Due to the fact that wads of cash would be needed to pay for a tank of petrol, a meal in a restaurant or common grocery items, most Sudanese use electronic payments and mobile money services.

Such online services are only available to Sudanese residents as they are linked to local bank accounts.

The most widely used online payment system is the Bank of Khartoum’s Bankak mobile app, which enables QR code payments at merchants, bill payments, internal/external fund transfers, and cardless ATM withdrawals.

Electronic payments are not available to tourists who still need to carry wads of cash.

Credit Cards

Due to sanctions, international credit cards cannot be used in Sudan.

ATMs

Since international credit cards cannot be used in Sudan due to sanctions, ATMs cannot be used to withdraw cash.

Costs

Travel costs in Sudan are high since tourist infrastructure is very limited and, with a lack of competition, hotels and airlines can charge monopolistic (high) prices.

Other travel costs – such as food, drinks etc. are totally reasonable.

Sample costs: 

• Soft Drink (0.33L bottle): US$0.65
• Water (0.33L bottle): US$0.45
• Cappuccino: US$1.80
• Pasta meal at La Rome Restaurant in Port Sudan: US$5
• Large pizza at La Rome Restaurant in Port Sudan: US$4.5
• Sudan Tour Cost: Please contact Osman Bashir at Travel Sudan Tours (www.tours.sd) for a quote.
• Sudan Travel Authorisation: €350
• Sudan Visa-on-Arrival Fee: US$100
• IATI Standard Travel Insurance Policy (7 days): €35
• Accommodation at the Basiri Plaza Hotel in Port Sudan (per night): US$150 (single) / US$200 (twin)
• Return Flight with Ethiopian Airlines from Addis Ababa to Port Sudan: US$588

Travel Insurance

Due to the fact that most governments have issued a ‘DO NOT TRAVEL’ advisory for Sudan, most travel insurance companies will not issue travel insurance policies for Sudan.

One company which does issue travel insurance policies is the Spanish insurer IATI Seguros.

With more than 130 years in the business, IATI offer a range of policies for Sudan (and other non-insurable countries) from Standard to Comprehensive.

I travelled to Sudan using an IATI Standard Travel Insurance Policy which cost me €35 for seven days. 

Sightseeing

Pyramids of Meroë

The Pyramids of Meroë (pronounced MER-oh-ee) are one of Sudan’s most extraordinary archaeological treasures, rising dramatically from the desert sands east of the Nile.

Located near the ancient city of Meroë, about 270 km (168 mi) northeast of Khartoum, this significant UNESCO World Heritage Site was the burial ground of the Kings and Queens of the Kingdom of Kush between roughly 300 BCE and 350 CE.

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Video: Driving to the Pyramids of Meroë in Sudan with Travel Sudan Tours.

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Unlike the larger Egyptian pyramids, the pyramids of Meroë are smaller, steeper, and more numerous, with over 200 structures clustered in striking desert cemeteries.

Many feature carved bas-reliefs and chapels that reflect a unique blend of African and Egyptian influences, highlighting the power and sophistication of Kushite civilisation.

Set against a vast, silent desert landscape, the Pyramids of Meroë offer travellers a powerful sense of history, isolation, and discovery, making them one of the most memorable and atmospheric heritage sites in Africa.

There are three complexes of pyramids at Meroë, the Northern, Southern and Western complexes.

The Northern and Southern complexes are located next to each other while the Western complex is located a few kilometres to the west.

Pyramids of Meroë Visitor’s Centre

A good first stop is the Pyramids of Meroë Visitor’s Centre which was constructed using funds provided by the government of Qatar.

The centre features informative displays on the Kingdom of Kuch and their burial complexes at Meroë.

Northern Pyramid Complex

The big daddy of all the complexes – The Northern Pyramid Complex at Meroë is the largest and most prominent group within the ancient royal cemetery of Meroë.

It served mainly as a burial ground for the kings and queens of the Kingdom of Kush, especially during the Meroitic period (about 300 BCE–350 CE).

The Northern Complex contains around 40 pyramids, arranged in tight rows on gently sloping desert ground.

They are closer together than Egyptian pyramids, creating a dense, striking skyline.

Meroitic pyramids are much smaller and steeper than those in Egypt.

Most rise between 10–30 metres and have sharply angled sides, giving them a tall, narrow appearance.

This complex was primarily reserved for male rulers (kings) of Kush, though some queens and high-status royals were also buried nearby.

Underground burial chambers were cut into the bedrock and accessed by stairways.

Each pyramid originally had a small offering chapel attached to its eastern side, which faces the direction of the rising sun.

These chapels were decorated with bas-reliefs and inscriptions showing the ruler, gods, and funerary rituals.

The Northern Complex stands as a powerful symbol of the Kingdom of Kush’s royal authority, religious beliefs, and architectural innovation, and it is a key part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Meroë.

Southern Pyramid Complex

The Southern Pyramid Complex at Meroë is smaller and less monumental than the Northern Complex, but it is historically important because it represents earlier phases of Kushite royal burial practices.

The Southern Complex is generally considered the 2nd oldest of the Meroë cemeteries, dating mainly to the early Meroitic period (around 300–250 BCE), with some burials possibly slightly earlier.

Many pyramids were several damaged in the 19th century by (European) treasure hunters, yet the site remains one of the most impressive ancient landscapes in Africa.

The Southern Complex was used for royal and elite burials, including early Meroitic kings, queens, and members of the royal family, before the focus shifted to the nearby Northern Complex.

The complex contains fewer pyramids (about 10–15), spaced more widely apart than those in the northern cemetery.

The layout is more irregular, reflecting its experimental and transitional nature.

The pyramids are smaller and simpler than those in the northern cemetery, though they already show the steep-sided, narrow profile typical of Meroitic pyramids.

Today, many pyramids in the Southern Complex are heavily eroded or ruined (by treasure hunters), but the site remains valuable for understanding the early royal history of Meroë.

Western Pyramid Complex

The much smaller Western Pyramid Complex at Meroë is located a few kilometres to the west of the Northern and Southern complex, but all are within sight of each other.

The Western complex is closer to the River Nile and is considered to be the oldest complex.

The site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and dates mainly from c. 300 BCE to 350 CE, during the height of the Kingdom of Kush.

The Western Complex served primarily as a royal burial ground.

It contains some of the earliest pyramids at Meroë, and many belonged to kings and queens of the Kushite dynasty.

Many pyramids in the Western Complex are damaged or truncated, largely due to ancient tomb robbing and destruction in the 19th century by European treasure hunters.

Compared to Egyptian pyramids, the pyramids are much smaller and steeper, reflecting a distinct Nubian architectural tradition.

In front of each pyramid stood a chapel used for funerary rituals, often decorated with reliefs showing the deceased ruler or Nubian and Egyptian deities such as Amun, Isis, and Anubis.

Although completely run-down and litter strewn, the interior of two of the renovated chapels feature fragments of bas-relief panels showing Nubian queens.

The Western Complex shows a blend of indigenous Nubian beliefs and Egyptian religious symbolism, adapted to local traditions.

It reflects the political power and religious ideology of Kush at a time when it rivaled Rome in northeast Africa.

Apart from me and my guide and driver, the only other people at the site were two young local boys who were out riding their donkeys.

The remote isolation and deserted, untouched, nature of the site makes it ideal for anyone who wishes to live out their Indiana Jones’ fantasies.

Port Sudan

Port Sudan is Sudan’s main seaport and a key gateway between Africa and the Red Sea, offering a distinctive blend of maritime life, desert landscapes, and coastal culture.

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Video: Travelling on the main highway, through a narrow gorge in the Red Sea Mountains, from the interior, back to Port Sudan.

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Due to its remote location, on the shores of the Red Sea, and separated from the interior of Sudan by the Red Sea Mountains, the city has been left largely untouched by the current, ongoing war.

As such, Port Sudan has become the de-facto capital of Sudan and the city’s population has doubled to around 1 million inhabitants since the start of the war in April 2023.

Located on the western shore of the Red Sea, the city serves as the country’s principal commercial hub and one of its most important urban centres outside the Nile Valley.

Within close proximity of Port Sudan, to the south, is the former historic port town of Suakin.

With its coastal setting, Port Sudan provides a unique travel experience distinct from Sudan’s inland cities.

Daim Arab Market

Port Sudan reflects Sudan’s cultural diversity, with a significant population of Beja who are an ancient Cushitic ethnic group, primarily nomadic pastoralists from the Red Sea Mountains, known for their distinct culture and music.

Located in the heart of the Beja community, the Daim Arab Market in downtown Port Sudan is the home of tailors who produce traditional Sudanese vests, sederi, which are worn by many Sudanese men.

One of the tailors tried to sell me a rather nice sederi which was a perfect fit!

The market is also known for its many Beja artisans who produce ornamental knives and swords.

The Beja people are known for two primary traditional bladed weapons, both serving as practical tools and crucial cultural symbols: the Beja dagger (known locally as the khanjar) and the straight kaskara sword.

Both of these ornamental cultural symbols can be purchased at the Daim Arab Market in Port Sudan.

The metal blades for the knives and swords are forged by blacksmiths who use the most rudimentary of equipment.

Port Sudan Train Station

Sudan boasts a network of 4,725 kilometres of narrow-gauge, single-track railways, most of which was built by the British during the colonial period.

The line to Port Sudan was completed in 1905.

However, like most other countries in Africa which feature rail infrastructure from the colonial era, Sudan’s network is largely in ruin following decades of neglect.

The network is impressive, stretching across the vast expense of Sudan from Wadi Halfa, on the Egyptian border in the north, to Wau in present-day South Sudan, and from Port Sudan in the east to Nyala, near the Chad border.

The entire network is now very much in a state of disrepair, though modernisation efforts have been attempted, most recently by Chinese companies, to revive the crucial Port Sudan line, which is critical for the movement of freight to the interior and the land-locked countries beyond.

As recently as 2017, Chinese firms were proposing to build a new rail line which would link Port Sudan to Chad.

Port Sudan train station is a key part of Sudan’s historic railway network, serving as the coastal terminus for the main line connecting to Khartoum and the interior.

The impressive station was built in 1905 by the British administration, using basalt-stone from the Red Sea Mountains.

Today, the station is eerily quiet with the ticket windows firmly closed and the quiet platform providing a serene place to contemplate what once was an impressive operation.

Arous Beach

Arous Beach is one of Sudan’s most popular seaside escapes, located 47 km (1 hour) north of Port Sudan along the Red Sea coast.

The beach is home to Arous Camp which offers accommodation, food, snorkelling, swimming and scuba diving.

Known for its white sand, clear turquoise waters, and relaxed atmosphere, Arous Beach is a favourite destination for both locals and visitors seeking a peaceful coastal retreat.

The beach is especially valued for swimming, snorkelling, and picnicking, with calm waters and nearby coral reefs offering glimpses of colourful marine life.

There is a dive shop at Arous Camp where diving equipment can be rented.

Simple beach facilities, shaded huts, and small cafés make it an easy day trip from Port Sudan, particularly on weekends and holidays.

With its laid-back vibe, warm Red Sea climate, and natural beauty, Arous Beach offers a refreshing introduction to Sudan’s coastal lifestyle and highlights the unspoilt charm of the country’s Red Sea shoreline.

Red Sea Diving Resort

Located on the opposite side of the bay from Arous Camp, the Red Sea Diving Resort was an infamous resort run by Israeli spies!

Originally built by an Italian company, the resort operated as a modest holiday and scuba-diving resort during the late 1970s and early 1980s, attracting foreign tourists with its clear waters, coral reefs, and isolation.

In the early 1980s, it was secretly operated by Israel’s Mossad as a cover for a humanitarian rescue mission known as Operation Brothers.

Using the resort as a base, Mossad agents helped smuggle around Ethiopian Jews (Beta Israel) who had fled famine and persecution into refugee camps in Sudan.

Under the cover of darkness, refugees were transported from inland camps to the Red Sea coast, where they were secretly evacuated by Israeli naval vessels and later by aircraft to Israel.

The operation continued for several years until the mid-1980s, successfully rescuing many thousands of people.

After the mission ended, the resort closed and has laid abandoned ever since.

The extraordinary mix of tourism, espionage, and humanitarian rescue later became widely known and inspired the 2019 film The Red Sea Diving Resort.

I know from my own personal experience that it is impossible to travel around Sudan without being stopped at numerous police checkpoints.

The fact that around 7,000 Ethiopian Jews were moved across Sudan to the Red Sea coast without the Sudanese government being complicit is inconceivable.

Apparently, some senior members in the government at the time were rewarded with US citizenship!

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“The Red Sea Diving Resort” (also known as Operation Brothers) is a 2019 spy thriller film written and directed by Gideon Raff.

The film stars Chris Evans as an Israeli Mossad agent who runs a covert operation to rescue Ethiopian-Jewish refugees from Sudan to safe haven in Israel.

The film is loosely based on the events of Israel’s Operation Moses and Operation Joshua in 1984-1985, in which the Mossad covertly rescued Jewish-Ethiopian refugees who suffered from persecutions in Sudan in Africa, by smuggling them all the way to the safety of Israel, using a base at the once-abandoned holiday resort of Arous Village on the Sudanese Red Sea coast, about 70km (43 miles) north of Port Sudan.

Receiving many negative reviews, The Red Sea Diving Resort premiered at the San Francisco Jewish Film Festival on July 28, 2019, and was released on July 31, 2019, by Netflix.

Critical reaction to the film was predominantly negative, while audiences were mixed! 

The movie has been criticised for its lack of focus on the plight of the Ethiopian Jews and its ‘white savior’ narrative. 

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Suakin

Suakin is an historic port town on Sudan’s Red Sea coast, renowned for its atmospheric ruins and rich maritime heritage.

This ancient port started life as a small Beja settlement, first mentioned in the 10th century CE, though some suggest Roman-era presence.

During my visit to Suakin, I was guided by the friendly and informative Shangrai who has a wealth of knowledge on everything Suakin.

By the 15th century CE, Suakin had become a key mercantile centre for Egypt, attracting Venetian and Indian merchants, who traded there until the Ottoman invasion of 1517.

It was during the Ottoman occupation that many of the distinctive coral buildings for which the island is known were built.

Suakin’s population peaked around 1905, when it served as Sudan’s main port, reaching approximately 10,500 residents, though its role declined with the opening of Port Sudan in the early 1900s which served as the eastern terminus for the inland rail network.

The town is famous for its coral-stone architecture, with crumbling palaces, mosques, and merchant houses spread across Suakin Island, creating a hauntingly beautiful open-air museum.

One of the more significant ruins is that of the former Bank of Egypt building, a multi-storey building which was constructed directly on the waterfront during the British colonial era.

In 2008, the Turkish government announced its intention to help restore historic Ottoman architecture on Suakin Island.

During the following years, conservation works were carried out on the island’s Hanafi and Shafi’i Mosques, as well as the old Customs Complex.

Nearby, the modern port of Osman Digna has taken over commercial functions, leaving old Suakin largely preserved in time.

Today, frequent passenger boats depart from Osman Digna for Jeddah in Saudi Arabia, carrying Sudanese pilgrims and labourers.

We were guided around the ruins of Suakin, which includes the 2nd oldest mosque in Sudan, by the friendly and informative Shangrai.

Shafi Mosque

Dating from the Ottoman-era, the Shafi mosque is the 2nd oldest mosque in Sudan.

It was renovated by TIKA (Turkish Development Agency) as part of the 2008 renovation project.

Arkawit

The town of Arkawit, or Arkaweet, or Ar Kaweit, sits on a high plateau in the Red Sea Mountains, at an elevation of 1,200 metres (3,900 feet) above sea level, making it a cooler, mountainous resort area known as the “clouds’ tower”. 

The Gate of Arkawit is an historic, imposing stone archway that marks the entrance to the mountain town and former British colonial hill station of Arkawit, located near Port Sudan in eastern Sudan. 

Nearby, the summit of Mount Al-Sit (2,000 metres/ 6,500 ft) is a popular hiking spot. 

Known for its cooler climate, rolling fog, fresh air, and green landscapes, it has long been a popular retreat from the heat of Port Sudan and other lowland cities.

With its mountain scenery, mild temperatures, and cultural heritage, Arkawit offers travellers a refreshing and distinctive experience that highlights a lesser-known, greener side of Sudan.

The landscape around Arkawit is unique in Sudan, being home to the candelabra tree, a type of tall, succulent plant which is known for its distinctive, branched, candle-like structure resembling candelabras.

Native to Africa caution is needed as their milky sap can be poisonous.

Accommodation

Hotels in Sudan are generally old, run-down, overpriced and full of fittings and lights which often do not work.

One quirk with hotels in Sudan is that they do not normally offer towels in the bathrooms.

Apparently, when the Sudanese travel, they carry their own towels so hotels do not provide them.

In each hotel, I had to request a towel for the bathroom, and it always took some time to locate a clean towel.

Port Sudan

While in Port Sudan, I stayed twice in the Basiri Plaza Hotel (email: basiriplaza@hotmail.com) which was arranged by my tour company.

This is, apparently, the 2nd best hotel in the city, and while it claims to be a 4-star hotel, I would rate it at no more than a 2-star hotel.

The rooms are of variable size with one of my rooms featuring a single bed while my 2nd room featured a king-size bed.

The bathrooms are all very sad, being dimly lit, with leaking water pipes, broken toilet seats and broken fixtures.

On both occasions, there was no bath towel in my room which meant a trip to reception.

Each time, it took housekeeping about 20 minutes to procure a fresh towel.

Most light fittings in the rooms did not work and most furnishings (and the floors) were covered in dust.

The staff (who only speak Arabic) are friendly and courteous.

At the time of my visit, the exterior had received a fresh coat of white paint – but the interior is in desperate need of a complete renovation.

At US$150 per night (single) or US$200 (twin share) for a room, this hotel is way overpriced but with a lack of competition, they are able to charge whatever they wish.

There is an unremarkable restaurant on the mezzanine level which serves breakfast each morning (included in the nightly rate) and food throughout the day.

One interesting quirk in Sudanese restaurants is that smoke is often used to keep flies away.

During breakfast one morning, the smoke machine swung into full gear, shrouding the whole restaurant in a thick smoke screen.

Despite its many shortcomings, this was the best hotel I stayed in during my time in Sudan.

Pyramids of Meroë

In 2014, the Government of Qatar announced an investment package of US$135 million which was aimed at sponsoring various projects at Meroë which would lay the foundation for “archaeological tourism”.

It was the largest investment to be made in Sudan’s tourism sector by a foreign government.

As part of this investment, the Qatari government built a Visitor’s Centre and an adjacent resort – Dohat Meroë.

Apparently, a disagreement with the Sudanese government saw the Qatari’s withdraw from the project, but not before a nice resort had been completed.

The resort, which does not appear on any maps, nor in any articles on the internet, has never fully functioned as a resort for tourists.

Since the outbreak of the civil war in 2023, the rooms have been rented out to families from Khartoum who have escaped from the clutches of the marauding RSF forces.

My guide, Osman, who knows the resort manager, arranged for me to spend a night in one of the few rooms which have been left vacant – just in case a tourist should arrive at some stage.

I believe I was the first tourist to stay at the resort since the start of the war in April of 2023.

The cost of a room is US$150 per night – which does not include meals.

With fans, A/C and a decent bathroom, the rooms have been constructed to the usual Qatari (high) standard but are already in a state of disrepair.

Despite all the mod-cons, the whole resort was without electricity for much of the night which made for a sweaty stay.

The resort is a short drive from the pyramids!

Arkaweet

Welcome to Jebel Alsit Resort in Arkaweet, yet another run-down resort where a lack of competition ensures that the owners do not need to try too hard but can still charge a high price!

Located in the lofty and remote summer resort of Arkaweet, I believe I was the only guest staying at the resort.

This is one of the only places to stay in the area and was organised by my guide Osman.

Rooms were comfortable enough although the bathrooms were a little dirty and smelly.

The cost of a room is US$100 per night – which does not include any meals.

For dinner, I dined on chicken kebab, rice, chips, salad, and the most amazingly soft, fresh, bread.

I was the only guest in the restaurant and saw no other people during my stay!

The whole establishment is very sad and tired and in complete need of renovation but with no other options in town, travellers have no choice but to stay here.

The grounds of the resort feature a few exotic animals, such as a cheeky peacock, which was all over the place, and a mountain goat which is kept inside a rather sad enclosure.

Arous Camp

Located directly on the Red Sea, 48 km (1 hour) north of Port Sudan, Arous Camp consists of a bunch of tents and a collection of rudimentary buildings which are arranged along the shoreline.

I stayed in a basic room which was equipped with three single beds, blankets supplied by grandma, a fan and an AC unit.

The cost of a room is US$165 per night (single occupancy) or US$255 (twin share) which includes breakfast. 

In addition, an ‘Arous Tourism Fee” of US$20/ person is charged.

The nightly rate included breakfast which was served in an outdoor restaurant with a view over the beautiful Red Sea.

The nearby shared toilet and shower facility was not at all inviting so I avoided it where possible.

Eating Out

All meals on my trip were provided by Travel Sudan Tours, specifically the driver Shaheen, an excellent chef, who prepared the best food which I tasted in all of Sudan.

Sudanese Cuisine

Sudanese cuisine is hearty and comforting, shaped by the Nile, desert landscapes, and Arab and African influences.

While driving through the Nile town of Atbara, we stopped at a water pump to fill jerry cans with ‘Nile Water‘ to carry back to Port Sudan.

Apparently, a friend of Osman had requested Nile water which tastes so much better than the de-salinated water in Port Sudan, which is sourced from the Red Sea.

During my stay, I tasted the most amazingly fresh produce – from the juiciest and ripest of red tomatoes, the greenest and crispiest of cucumbers, the most amazing watermelons and so much more.

The fertile corridor along the Nile River is used to grow an abundance of produce which tastes divine!

Both tea and coffee (always served black with lots of sugar) are staples which can be enjoyed everywhere.

During our travels, we stopped at many roadside tea houses where we enjoyed many glasses of tea and coffee and even fresh Sudanese donuts.

As with other Arab countries, kebab (shawarma) restaurants are everywhere, and always busy!

For those who have travelled in Ethiopia or Eritrea, you will recognise Kisra, the Sudanese version of Injera, a sour fermented pancake-like flatbread with a slightly spongy texture, traditionally made of teff flour.

As in other Arabic countries, freshly baked flat bread is ubiquitous in Sudan!

Each day our driver/ cook – Shaheen – would stop to buy a bag full of warm, freshly baked bread which we would eat for breakfast and lunch.

My favourite breakfast, which Shaheen prepared, was a fluffy, thin omelette, which was then inserted into a pocket of fresh flat bread.

Delicious!

Jibna Mudafara – A Sudanese Delicacy! 

One Sudanese delicacy which I was introduced to was Jibna Mudafara – a type of braided cheese introduced to Sudan by a Greek settler in the 1930s who adapted Armenian string cheese techniques (called chechil) for local milk.

To make this special cheese, milk curds are kneaded in hot water until elastic, seasoned with black cumin, then braided and salted while warm.

My first breakfast at Arous Camp included Jibna Mudafara (top-right on the breakfast platter) which has a rubbery texture and a salty, briny taste.

I then enjoyed eating this chewy, briny delicacy on a daily basis while in Sudan!

I was very grateful that our chef extraordinaire, Shaheen, carried an ample supply of Jibna Mudafara on our travels.

I especially enjoyed sandwiches made from fresh flat bread, Jibna Mudafara and eggs – all washed down with a glass of delicious Sudanese tea or coffee.

I was told that when Sudanese travel overseas, they often carry a stash of Jibna Mudafara in their luggage.

La Rome Restaurant

While almost all meals were provided by Shaheen and Osman, my independent, solo-traveller side was happy to have one free night in Port Sudan where I was free to explore the city by myself and find a restaurant for dinner.

I was fortunate to find my way to La Rome Restaurant which is located a short walk from the Basiri Plaza Hotel, on University Street, next to the Bohin Hotel.

La Rome offers good food, in a pleasant, clean environment which is served by friendly and welcoming staff.

The menu offers a variety of Italian dishes from pizza, pasta to salads and juices.

For dessert, there is a selection of the creamiest of ice-creams!

La Rome was so good that I had to share my find with Osman and Shaheen, so I treated all of us to dinner on my last night, as a way of showing my appreciation for their monumental effort, guiding me around Sudan during my stay.

Visa Requirements

Almost all visitors to Sudan are required to apply for a visa in advance.

Due to the ongoing war, Sudan remains closed for tourism.

However, a local Sudanese tour company, such as @tsudantours is able to apply for a business visa which will allow you to enter Sudan by air through Port Sudan International Airport (IATA: PZU).

Prior to arrival, you will be issued with a Travel Authorisation which will allow you to board a flight to Port Sudan where a visa will be issued on arrival.

Upon arrival at Port Sudan airport, you are required to present a printed version of the travel authorisation and pay a US$100 cash visa fee.

A sticker visa will then be affixed to your passport and you are free to enter Sudan.

Getting There

Reaching Sudan is normally possible by air, land, and sea.

However, due to the ongoing civil war, the only feasible way for travellers to enter Sudan is through Port Sudan International Airport, while overland routes remain firmly closed to tourists.

Air

Located 20 kilometres (12 mi) south of Port Sudan, Port Sudan International Airport (IATA: PZU) serves as the gateway to Port Sudan and the Red Sea coast.

Since the start of the civil war in April 2023, and the subsequent bombing of Khartoum International Airport, PZU has served as the main gateway to Sudan.

It also serves as the temporary hub for two Sudanese airlines – Badr Airlines and Tarco Aviation who were previously based at Khartoum International Airport – until it was bombed!

In April 2023, a Badr Airlines Boeing 737-800 was destroyed at Khartoum Airport during fighting between government forces and the Rapid Support Forces during the RSF occupation of the Khartoum International Airport.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Port Sudan:

• Afriqiyah Airways – flies to/from Tripoli–Mitiga
• Badr Airlines – flies to/from Abu Dhabi, Addis Ababa, Cairo, Doha, Dubai–International, Jeddah, Juba, Muscat, Riyadh
• Egyptair – flies to/from Cairo
• Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/from Addis Ababa
• Sudan Airways – flies to/from Cairo, Jeddah
• Tarco Aviation – flies to/from Asmara, Cairo, Dammam, Doha, Dongola, Dubai–International, Entebbe, Jeddah, Juba, Kassala, Kuwait City, Muscat, Riyadh, Sharjah
• Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul

Airport Transport

Yellow taxis are available from Port Sudan airport to downtown Port Sudan.

Land

Sudan shares borders with seven countries – Egypt, Chad, Central African Republic, South Sudan, Eritrea, Ethiopia and Libya – but overland travel depends heavily on security conditions, border openings, and visa requirements.

Currently – all land border crossings are closed to foreigners! 

Sea

Passenger ferries link Saudi Arabia to Sudan, arriving and departing from the port at Suakin.

This is not a common method of travel for foreign tourists but rather a service for local pilgrims and labourers.

Getting Around

I travelled entirely in the comfort of a Toyota Land Cruiser with my guide and driver from Travel Sudan Tours (@tsudantours).

In the current climate (i.e. war), foreign travellers are not be able to travel freely on public transport between towns and would be immediately stopped at one of the many police checkpoints.

In order to travel between cities, and different states, foreigners need to be issued with a travel permit (takes 24-hours to issue) which must be sponsored by a local Sudanese company.

You must always travel with your sponsor!

The infrastructure in Sudan is in terrible condition, with all highways being single-lane, potholed, and generally in atrocious condition.

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Video: Driving through the Red Sea Mountains on the highway which links the coast to the interior of Sudan.

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The main highway from Port Sudan to Khartoum is permanently clogged by a line of slow-moving trucks which haul goods to and from the port in Port Sudan.

As such, accidents are numerous!

Caution is required!

Buses

Long-distance buses are the primary way to travel between major cities for local Sudanese only.

City Taxis

Un-metered yellow taxis are widely available in major cities.

Fares must be negotiated in advance.

Car Rental

Not an option for foreign visitors.

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That’s the end of my Sudan Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave feedback or a comment, you can do so using the form below, or via the Contact page.

Safe Travels!
Darren

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Further Reading

Following is a list of other taste2travel content from the region:

• Djibouti Travel Guide 
• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Socotra Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• South Sudan Travel Guide