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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Central African Republic Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2024
Introduction
Nestled in the very centre of the African continent, the Central African Republic (CAR) remains one of the world’s last truly wild frontiers.
Aka Pygmies are known for their traditional song and dance.
Far from the crowds and commercial routes of mainstream tourism, CAR offers an off-the-beaten-path experience rich in untouched nature, authentic cultures, and raw beauty.
One of the cute inhabitants of “Camp île Bongo Soua”, a refugee camp on the banks of the Ubangi River in Bangui.
The Central African Republic has had a long and turbulent history of violent conflict and political instability.
A young woman, waiting on the banks of the Ubangi River, which flows past Bangui.
Though the journey to the CAR can be challenging, the reward is profound: meaningful encounters with local communities, vibrant traditions, and nature in its purest form, including Boali Waterfalls, considered to be the most spectacular waterfall in Central Africa.
Aka Pygmies are known for their traditional song and dance.
A destination for intrepid travellers, the Central African Republic awaits with stories few have heard – and even fewer have seen for themselves.
Souvenirs for sale at the Centre Artisanal in Bangui.
While I normally travel solo, I chose to travel to CAR with a group of 10 fellow travels from the Nomad Mania website.
We travelled with a local travel guide/ fixer, Steve Whulmer Abraham Yandault, who is the owner of Sway Tour in Bangui.
Steve organised the all-important Message Porte, a letter of invitation (LOI), which allows you to collect your visa on arrival at Bangui Airport.
I have included the contact details for Steve in the ‘Tour Guide‘ section below.
Children at “Camp île Bongo Soua”, a refugee camp which houses those who lost their homes on nearby Bongo Soua Island (background) due to flooding.
From a photography point of view, there is an abundance of amazing photos waiting to be taken in the CAR, with the locals especially keen to pose for the camera.
An Aka Pygmy youth, during a dance performance.
I have included just a small fraction of my photos in this travel guide, including some from a trip which was made to an Aka Pygmy tribe in the south-west of the country.
Braided rugs, in a rainbow of colours, at the Ndara Boutique in Bangui.
The Central African Republic, is a country which is often misunderstood and portrayed in a negative light but which is an interesting and engaging destination, with positive, good news stories and friendly and welcoming locals.
Travelling by pirogue on the Ubangi River.
Location
Bangui, Central African Republic
Located 4 degrees north of the Equator, the Central African Republic (CAR) is a landlocked country located almost in the geographic centre of the African continent.
Being landlocked, CAR depends heavily on Cameroon for access to seaports.
The Ubangi River, which flows through Bangui, is a part of the Congo River Basin and a major tributary of the Congo River.
River transport on the Ubangi River, and overland trade routes, are vital lifelines.
The terrain of the country is mostly savanna, with dense tropical forests in the south and semi-arid areas in the north.
The Central African Republic is divided into 20 prefectures, as shown on this souvenir map at the Artisanal Market in Bangui.
The Central African Republic is divided into 20 prefectures.
These prefectures are further subdivided into 84 sub-prefectures.
CAR shares borders with six countries which are:
North: Chad
East: Sudan and South Sudan (click to read my travel guide!)
South: Democratic Central African Republic and Republic of the Congo(click to read my travel guide!)
West: Cameroon
Two major rivers are the Ubangi, which forms the southern border with DRC, and Sangha, both tributaries of the Congo River system.
The Ubangi River forms the border between the CAR and the DRC.
With a total length of 1,060 km (660 mi), the Ubangi River is the largest tributary of the Congo River and allows river navigation from Bangui to Brazzaville (capital of the Republic of Congo) and Kinshasa (capital of the DRC).
A fisherman, on the Ubangi River, which flows past Bangui, the capital of the Central African Republic.
Bangui, CAR’s capital, lies directly on the Ubangi River, across from the DRC.
History
The “Jardin du Cinquantenaire” (50th Anniversary Garden) was established to celebrate 50 years of independence on the 1st of December 2008.
The Central African Republic (CAR) has a complex and turbulent history marked by colonisation, political instability, coups, and conflict.
Pre-Colonial Era
Before European colonisation, the region now known as CAR was home to various ethnic groups and kingdoms, such as the Banda, Baya, and Zande peoples.
These groups had their own systems of governance and trade networks, and some were linked to trans-Saharan trade routes.
Slave raiding from neighbouring regions, including the Sahel and Sudan, heavily affected local populations.
Colonial Rule (Late 1800s – 1960)
This monument in Bangui is dedicated to Barthélemy Boganda, leader of the CAR Independence movement and the first Premier of the CAR.
In the late 19th century, during the “Scramble for Africa,” France colonised the area, incorporating it into French Equatorial Africa in 1910.
The region was known as Ubangi-Shari.
During this time, French rule was exploitative, with forced labor and harsh treatment of local populations.
Resistance was met with brutal suppression.
After World War II, political reform movements gained traction.
Barthélemy Boganda emerged as a key figure advocating for autonomy.
A monument in Bangui is dedicated to Boganda, who was the leader of the CAR Independence movement and the first Premier of an autonomous Central African Republic.
Independence and Early Postcolonial Period (1960–1981)
CAR gained independence from France on August 13, 1960.
David Dacko became the first president.
In 1966, Jean-Bédel Bokassa led a coup and ruled as a dictator.
In 1976, he declared himself Emperor Bokassa I and renamed the country the Central African Empire, staging a lavish coronation funded by state coffers.
In 1979, France intervened to remove Bokassa in “Operation Barracuda” after his regime became internationally condemned for human rights abuses.
Political Instability and Civil Wars (1981–Present)
During the 1980s and 1990s, the country saw a series of coups and short-lived governments.
Despite occasional elections, political instability persisted.
In the early 2000s, François Bozizé seized power in a 2003 coup.
Although initially welcomed, his rule became increasingly authoritarian.
In 2013, the Séléka Rebellion, led by a coalition of mostly Muslim rebel groups known as Séléka, overthrew Bozizé, leading to sectarian violence.
In response, Christian militias called anti-Balaka emerged, creating a cycle of revenge killings
International forces intervened, and a UN peacekeeping mission (MINUSCA) remains active today.
Faustin-Archange Touadéra has served as president since 2016, winning reelection in 2020.
However, the government still struggles with limited control outside the capital, Bangui, due to rebel groups and weak institutions.
The CAR faces ongoing humanitarian issues, with widespread displacement, poverty, and food insecurity.
The government continues to rely on foreign support, including from Russia (notably through Wagner Group mercenaries) and the United Nations, to maintain security.
People
Children in a refugee camp in Bangui, Central African Republic.
The Central African Republic (CAR) is a diverse country with a rich tapestry of ethnic groups.
An Aka Pygmy girl.
Though it has a relatively small population (around 5 million), it is home to more than 80 distinct ethnic groups.
A friendly shop owner at the Artisanal Market in Bangui.
These groups can be broadly categorised into several major ethnolinguistic clusters, primarily of Bantu, Sudanic, and Ubangian origins.
A traditional Christian wedding in Bangui, the capital of the Central African Republic.
In terms of religion, the people of the CAR practice Christianity (Catholic and Protestant), Islam (mainly among the Fulani and some northeastern groups), and traditional African religions.
The Central African Republic is home to more than 80 different ethnic groups.
Political and religious tensions have sometimes aligned with ethnic divisions, especially during the civil conflicts since 2013.
A resident of “Camp île Bongo Soua”.
Flag
Flag of the Central African Republic.
With its distinct design, the flag of the Central African Republic features four horizontal stripes of blue, white, green and yellow, and a single vertical band of red, with a yellow five-pointed star in the upper left corner.
Beaded bags, in the colours of the flag of the CAR, at a craft market in Bangui.
Each colour on the flag carries specific meanings:
Blue: Liberty and the sky.
White: Peace and dignity.
Green: Hope and faith, and the lush forests of the south.
Yellow: Tolerance and the savannas of the north.
Red (vertical stripe): Unity and the blood shed for independence and sacrifice.
Yellow Star: Independence, a guiding light, and aspiration toward a better future.
As a flag geek, I was happy to purchase this beaded flag bag as my souvenir of the CAR.
The flag is an iconic symbol in the country, appearing on bead-work bags, paintings and other souvenirs.
The flag was adopted on December 1, 1958, when the country gained autonomy from France (before full independence in 1960).
A wooden map of the Central African Republic, painted with the colours of the national flag.
The design was created by Barthélemy Boganda, a key figure in CAR’s independence movement and its first Prime Minister.
He wanted the flag to symbolise the coming together of Africa (green and yellow) and France (blue and white), with red as the shared blood of humanity – a call for unity across race and continent.
A craft shop owner in Bangui, displaying a CAR flag-themed mobile phone beaded carrier.
The yellow star is intended to be indicative of independence, as well as a symbol of African unity, progress and tolerance.
Currency
The currency of the Central African Republic is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF.
The currency of the Central African Republic is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF or sometimes written as FCFA (from Franc de la Coopération Financière en Afrique Centrale).
Apart from the Central African Republic, this currency is used by five other countries in Central Africa, including – Equatorial Guinea, Republic of the Congo (click to view my travel guides), Cameroon, Chad and Gabon.
The CFA franc is pegged to the Euro, with a fixed exchange rate, providing stability in international transactions.
Currently, €1 = 655.96 CFA francs.
This peg has meant that travel costs in all countries in the CFA zone are much higher than costs on the non-CFA countries.
The currency of the Central African Republic is the Central African CFA franc, which is the official currency of six central African nations.
The currency is issued and regulated by the Bank of Central African States (BEAC), which is the central bank for the Central African Economic and Monetary Community (CEMAC).
The bank is headquartered in Yaoundé, Cameroon, with the headquarters building featured on the front of all banknotes.
The CFA franc is denoted by the symbol “FCFA” or “XAF” and is available in both coins and banknotes.
Coins are available in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 500 francs, while banknotes are issued in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs.
Almost a full set of (uncirculated) CFA franc banknotes – with the 2,000 missing!
Credit Cards
Like almost all other African countries, cash is king in Central African Republic with credit cards rarely accepted.
It is advisable to have some local currency on hand for all transactions, as well as Euros for larger purchases or in case of emergencies.
ATMs
ATMs are available in Bangui, where you can withdraw cash using international debit or credit cards at any Eco Bank ATM.
Conveniently, there is an Eco Bank ATM located in the lobby of the Ledger Plaza Hotel.
Money Exchange
Money exchange is available at the Lebanese-owned Bangui Mall which is located on Av. de I’Independance.
Sunday Brunch at the Ledger Plaza Bangui costs XAF 16,000 per adult. Source: Ledger Plaza Bangui.
Like most other countries in Central Africa, especially the former French colonies in the CFA currency zone, travel costs in the CAR are not cheap with flight tickets on the limited airlines, and hotel beds in the limited hotels, all being sold at a premium.
Overall Budget: For a mid-range traveller, expect to spend at least $150-$300 per day, and potentially much more.
Factors like the duration of the trip, the type of accommodation chosen, and the frequency of dining at restaurants will all impact the total cost.
My tour guide in the CAR was Steve Whulmer Abraham Yandault, who is the owner of Sway Tour in Bangui.
I travelled to the Central African Republic as part of a group tour organised by Harry Mitsidis, the founder of Nomad Mania.
I normally travel solo, and of the 245 countries and territories which I have visited, this was only the 2nd time I have travelled as part of a group, the other being a 10-day tour of North Korea (DPRK) where one must travel on a group tour.
I travelled to the Central African Republic with nine other Nomad Maniacs as part of a tour organised by Harry Mitsidis, the founder of Nomad Mania.
All ground arrangements were handled by our trusty guide, Steve Whulmer Abraham Yandault, who is the owner of Sway Tour in Bangui.
Steve speaks limited English and is clearly much more comfortable conversing in French.
If you wish to plan a trip to the Central African Republic, Steve can organise a tour and the all-important Message Porte, a letter of invitation (LOI), which allows you to collect your visa on arrival at Bangui Airport.
Contact details for Steve Whulmer Abraham YandaultatSway Tour:
A highlight of Bangui, the Ubangi River is a significant waterway throughout Central Africa, which eventually flows into the Congo River.
Bangui
Notre-Dame of Bangui Cathedral
Blending European and Central African architectural influences, the Notre-Dame of Bangui Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral located in the heart of Bangui.
Built in the early 1900s from locally fired bricks, the Notre-Dame of Bangui Cathedral is a large red brick church built in the French colonial style.
The Central African Republic is home to an estimated 2.9 million Christians today, about a third of whom are Roman Catholic.
The interior of the Notre-Dame of Bangui Cathedral features a crucifix and four massive windows featuring coloured glass.
Since declaring independence from France in 1960, the Central African Republic has experienced a series of conflicts.
Political unrest in the 1990s prompted then-Archbishop Joachim Ndayen to begin hosting peace talks at the cathedral in 1996.
Later in 1999, Pope John Paul II visited Bangui and spoke about the “difficult and complex situation” facing the country.
In November 2015, Pope Francis visited the cathedral as well as the nearby Grande Mosquée de Bangui.
In November 2015, Pope Francis visited the cathedral as well as the nearby Grande Mosquée de Bangui, offering a message of peace and resilience.
Assemblée Nationale
A statue of Barthélemy Boganda, an independence activist, and the first Premier of the Central African Republic, stands outside the National Assembly building in Bangui.
The Assemblée Nationale (National Assembly) is the lower house of the Parliament of the Central African Republic.
The first legislative arm was established in January 1947, however, due to wars, coups and political upheaval over the years, the parliament has experienced great change.
Two giant Central African Republic flags decorate the front wall of the National Assembly chamber.
The current National Assembly was founded on the 27th of March 2016, following the ratification of a new Constitution of the Central African Republic.
A total of 140 members, who serve five-year terms, are elected in single-member constituencies.
The 140-seat National Assembly is the lower house of the Parliament of the Central African Republic.
The largest party, with 40 seats, is the United Hearts Movement, which was formed in November 2018 as a political association by President Faustin-Archange Touadéra.
The Senate was abolished upon the adoption of the 2023 constitution, and the National Assembly became the sole chamber of the unicameral legislature.
Centre Artisanal de Bangui
An Aladdin’s cave of handmade souvenirs at the Centre Artisanal (Artisanal Market) in Bangui.
A great place to purchase souvenirs of the Central African Republic is the Centre Artisanal (Artisanal Market) in downtown Bangui where a collection of small shops is arranged around a compound.
Bead work souvenirs at the Centre Artisanal are very popular, especially those which depict the national flag of the CAR.
These shops are brimming with handmade arts and crafts which are offered at very reasonable prices, although bargaining is essential.
Artwork for sale, at the Artisanal Market in Bangui.
Jardin du Cinquantenaire
The “Jardin du Cinquantenaire” celebrates 50 years of CAR independence, from the 1st of December 1958 to the 1st of December 2008.
The Jardin du Cinquantenaire (50th Anniversary Garden) is a significant public space in downtown Bangui.
The garden, which was created in 2008, on the occasion of the country’s 50th anniversary of independence from France, serves as both a commemorative site and a recreational space for the residents of Bangui and visitors.
At the centre of the park is a monument which was constructed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the independence of the Central African Republic, marking an important milestone in the country’s history.
The “Jardin du Cinquantenaire” is a popular stop for wedding photos.
The monument is often seen as a cultural landmark, a place where people can gather to reflect on the country’s history and look forward to the future.
It is also a popular photo stop for newlyweds with one wedding party arriving just as we were visiting.
This mother and daughter were part of the wedding party which stopped for photos at the “Jardin du Cinquantenaire”.
Ndara Boutique
A stunning rug, braided using local fabric, which was made by the talented artisans at Ndara.
A home-grown success story, Ndarawas created by Charlotte, a native of the Central African Republic who wanted to empower local women, by training them to become artisans and business managers.
The Ndara Boutique in Bangui sells a range of beautiful, hand-made, gifts all of which are made by the Ndara artisans.
Ndarameans ‘to be skilled’ in Sango, the national language of the Central African Republic.
One of the friendly team members at Ndara, where 14 local artisans work full-time.
Ndara grew organically and today, five and a half years after its creation, Ndara employs 14 artisans full time, has a permanent workshop and has opened up a boutique in Bangui.
One of 14 female artisans at Ndara, who have been trained to manage the operation of the boutique.
Thanks to weekly classes in literacy, math and leadership, the female artisans, who could not read and write when they joined Ndara, now manage the operation of the boutique.
Colourful, hand-woven, baskets for sale at the Ndara Boutique in Bangui.
The boutique is fully managed by the local Ndara team and offers a range of stunning gift items which make for memorable souvenirs.
Bangui is located on the Ubangi River, which forms the border between CAR and DRC.
The Ubangi River, also known as the Oubangui, is a major river in Central Africa and the largest right-bank tributary of the Congo River.
A sunset cruise on the Ubangi River.
The river flows through Bangui, before joining the Congo River.
A fisherman on the banks of the Ubangi River.
The Ubangi River is a significant waterway for transportation and is also a source of water for the local population.
A young fisherman on the Ubangi River.
With a length of about 1,060 km (660 mi), the Ubangi flows west through Central Africa, forming the border between Central African Republic (CAR) and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC).
Bathing in the Ubangi River.
The navigable Ubangi River turns sharply south below Bangui and connects to the Congo River just south of the equator near Brazzaville as its chief northern tributary.
A view of a village, on the DRC side of the Ubangi River.
Directly opposite Bangui is the DRC city of Zongo, which is part of the DRC province of Sud-Ubangi Province.
As it forms a border between two countries, there is lots of commercial activity on the Ubangi River.
As part of our trip to Bangui, we did a sunset river cruise on the Ubangi, in a wooden piroque.
Wooden pirogues are the most popular form of transport on the Ubangi River.
Camp île Bongo Soua
The friendly inhabitants of “Camp île Bongo Soua”, a refugee camp on the banks of the Ubangi River.
A highlight of our sunset river cruise on the Ubangi River was a visit to “Camp île Bongo Soua” (Bongo Soua Island Refugee Camp).
The refugees at “Camp île Bongo Soua” were made homeless when flood waters washed their homes away on nearby Bongo Soua Island.
The friendly and welcoming inhabitants of this riverside refugee camp used to live in houses on nearby Bongo Soua Island, which is located in the middle of the river, directly across from the refugee camp.
The United Nations has provided tarpaulin sheets which has allowed the refugees to build basic shelters which overlook their former island home (background).
The capital city of Bangui, and surrounding areas, have been particularly affected by floods, often due to the overflow of the Ubangi River.
Refugees at “Camp île Bongo Soua”, which is located on the banks of the Ubangi River, in downtown Bangui.
Located in the middle of the Ubangi River, Bongo Soua Island has a history of flooding and, during one particularly bad wet season, the homes of many island residents were completely washed away by floodwaters.
The friendly children at “Camp île Bongo Soua”.
Ever since, they have lived, high above the river, at Camp île Bongo Soua, in makeshift shelters, which have been made from materials supplied by the United Nations.
Despite their living conditions, the inhabitants of “Camp île Bongo Soua” were welcoming and friendly.
Maison Russe
A statue of Yevgeny Prigozhin, the founder of the Wagner Group, who was killed when his plane was shot out of the sky over Russia, stands outside the ‘Maison Russe’ in Bangui.
There have been an estimated 1,000 Wagner mercenaries stationed in CAR since 2018, protecting the government of Faustin-Archange Touadéra against rebels amid the Central African Republic Civil War, and seeking to control and extract valuable natural resources.
Locals attend Russian language lessons at the Maison Russe in Bangui.
The role of the Wagner Group initially, was to fill a security vacuum left by France after it withdrew its military forces from the country in October 2016.
The country had been in the midst of a civil war since 2012, which left three-quarters of it under rebel control.
The Maison Russe in Bangui is a Russian Cultural Centre sponsored by the Wagner mercenary group.
The Wagner group quickly suppressed the rebels, returning security and order to the country.
For this reason, the people of CAR are generally grateful for Wagner’s presence.
In exchange, Wagner has secured a series of generous mining concessions in the country to prospect for diamonds and gold, and is heavily involved in the timber industry.
The youth of Bangui, inside the Maison Russe, a Russian Cultural Centre which is sponsored by the Wagner mercenary group.
The softer, more diplomatic side of the Wagner Group is expressed in the form of the Maison Russe (Russia House), a Russian cultural centre, language centre and cinema which is located in downtown Bangui, near to the Russian embassy.
A statue of Yevgeny Prigozhin, the founder of the Wagner Group, is installed outside the cultural centre.
Mr Prigozhin was famously killed when his plane was shot out of the sky over Russia.
Children, playing on a swing set, in the garden of the Maison Russe in Bangui.
This incident was the culmination of events which commenced on the 23rd of June 2023, when the Wagner Group staged an uprising against the Russian government.
The uprising marked the climax of the Wagner Group–Ministry of Defense conflict, which had begun about six months earlier.
Two Russian language students at the Maison Russe in Bangui.
Prior to his death, on his final trip to the Central African Republic (CAR), the then-Wagner boss Yevgeny Prigozhin visited la Maison Russe where he posed for selfies with his lieutenants and locals.
The institute, and its diverse activities, are stark examples of how the mercenary group has become a stand-in for the Russian state in the Central African Republic.
Children play on a carousel in the garden of the Maison Russe in Bangui.
At the cultural centre, a Russian tricolor flag flutters in the garden while children play on a carousel topped with an onion dome.
Inside, locals attend Russian language lessons and Russian cultural events.
Chutes de Boali
Located 100 km (62 miles) northwest of Bangui, the Chutes de Boali (Boali Falls) are considered to be the most impressive waterfall in Central Africa.
The Chutes de Boali (Boali Falls) are a stunning natural attraction located about 100 kilometres (62 miles) northwest of the capital, Bangui.
These falls are situated on the Mbali River and are among the most impressive in Central Africa.
The Chutes de Boali (Boali Falls) are located on the Mbali River, with a drop of about 50 metres (164 ft).
The Chutes de Boali are a popular destination for local tourists and international travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences.
While tourism infrastructure is limited due to the country’s political and economic challenges, the falls remain a symbol of natural beauty and national pride.
Boali Falls have a height of approximately 50 metres (164 feet) and a width which varies, especially during the rainy season, when water flow is at its peak.
I visited the falls in March, which is at the end of the dry season. Despite being the end of the dry season, the water flow was still very impressive.
The Chutes de Boali are a popular destination for local tourists and international travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences.
Surrounded by lush, tropical vegetation and dramatic rock formations, the falls offer a striking contrast between the powerful rushing water and the serene natural landscape.
The appearance of the fall’s changes dramatically between the dry and rainy seasons.
During the dry season, water flow is lower, but the geological formations become more visible.
The Chutes de Boali are an impressive sight and totally worth the 2-hour drive from Bangui.
In the rainy season, the falls become a roaring torrent of water
The Boali Falls also play an important role in the region’s infrastructure, with a hydroelectric power station nearby that supply’s electricity to Bangui and surrounding areas.
Aka Pygmy Village
A highlight of my trip to CAR was a visit to an Aka Pygmy village in the south-west of the country.
A highlight of my trip to CAR was a visit to an Aka Pygmy village in the village of Kpèkèto, which is located 2 hours’ drive south-west of Bangui, near Mbaïki, which is the capital of Lobaye, one of the 14 prefectures of the Central African Republic.
Who are the Pygmies?
A map showing the distribution of different Pygmy groups in the Congo Basin. Source: Wikipedia.
In anthropology, pygmy peoples are ethnic groups whose average height is unusually short.
Aka Pygmy youth in the village of Kpèkèto, which is a 2-hour drive south-west of Bangui, close to the border of the Republic of the Congo.
The term pygmyism is used to describe the phenotype of endemic short stature (as opposed to disproportionate dwarfism occurring in isolated cases in a population) for populations in which adult men are on average less than 150 cm (4 ft 11 in) tall.
A tribe of Aka Pygmies perform for our group during a visit to their village at Kpèkèto in south-west Central African Republic.
Although the term is sometimes considered derogatory because it focuses on a physical trait, it remains the primary term associated with the African Pygmies, the hunter-gatherers of the Congo Basin (comprising the Aka, Bambenga, Bambuti and Batwa).
The Aka Pygmies were very friendly and welcoming and the children were especially photogenic.
African Pygmies live in several ethnic groups in Rwanda, Burundi, Uganda, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Republic of the Congo, Central African Republic, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Madagascar, and Zambia.
An Aka Pygmy girl, being a little shy.
There are at least a dozen pygmy groups, sometimes unrelated to each other.
The chief of the Aka Pygmy village (left), wearing his traditional head-dress.
The best known are the Mbenga (Aka and Baka) of the western Congo Basin, who speak Bantu and Ubangian languages.
During our visit, the Aka Pygmies demonstrated how they collect wild bush honey, which we got to taste. Very rich and full of flavour!
Most pygmy communities are partially hunter-gatherers, living partially but not exclusively on the wild products of their environment.
They trade with neighbouring farmers to acquire cultivated foods and other material items; no group lives deep in the forest without access to agricultural products.
A young Aka Pygmy girl.
It is estimated that there are between 250,000 and 600,000 Pygmies living in the Congo rainforest
On my trip, we visited a tribe of Aka Pygmies who primarily live in the southwestern region of the Central African Republic and northern Republic of the Congo.
Aka Pygmies are known for their traditional song and dance.
They are known for their unique vocal musical tradition and their close connection to the tropical rainforest environment.
The Aka Pygmies are known for their musical and dancing traditions.
Pygmies have a strong cultural and religious connection to the forest, often viewing it as sacred.
The Aka Pygmies are known for their musical and dancing traditions.
Pygmies in the Central African Republic, particularly the Aka, are known for their traditional hunter-gatherer lifestyle in the rainforests and traditionally simple, non-hierarchical society.
The Aka Pygmies are a small ethnic group who inhabit the Congo Basin.
They are a small ethnic group native to the Congo Basin, traditionally subsisting on hunting and gathering wild forest resources.
The Aka Pygmies split their time between living in the rainforest and living in established villages.
They spend their time between living in the forest, and in established villages, where they work with local farmers to earn extra income.
Known for their unique singing and dancing traditions, the Aka Pygmies know how to put on a show.
They are known for their unique singing and dancing traditions.
The Aka Pygmies gather to perform traditional song and dance for our group.
During our visit to the Aka Pygmy village at Kpèkèto, we were treated to a show of traditional music and dancing which was very energetic.
An Aka Pygmy mother and child.
Videos: A singing and dancing performance by a tribe of Aka Pygmies in Central African Republic.
For the performance, the pygmies clad themselves in vegetation, with everyone, young and old, participating.
During our visit to the Aka Pygmy village, we were shown how traditional bush medicine is collected.
Post performance, we adjourned to the nearby forest where three pygmy women showed us how they collect traditional bush medicine.
These Aka Pygmies demonstrated the collection of traditional bush medicine which is vital to the pygmy communities.
In another demonstration, two brave men, totally unprotected, battled bees to show us how the pygmies collect traditional wild honey.
An Aka Pygmy demonstrating how wild honey is collected.
The honey, which was very dark in colour, was rich, and full of flavour.
I got to taste this wild honey which was very rich and full of flavour.
Despite this being a contrived tourist experience for the benefit of our group, our visit to the Aka Pygmy tribe was informative, entertaining and a real highlight of the trip.
An unforgettable musical and dance performance, especially by the children, of the Aka Pygmy community.
Accommodation
Ledger Plaza Bangui
My room at the Ledger Plaza Bangui, the best hotel in the Central African Republic.
The Ledger Plaza Bangui is a prominent 5-star hotel located in a secured compound in downtown Bangui.
Inaugurated on September 15, 2012, by then-President François Bozizé, Sylvie Annick Mazoungou, and the Libyan Ambassador to the CAR, the hotel was established as a symbol of luxury and international investment in the region.
Although it was inaugurated in 2012, the rooms at the Ledger Plaza Bangui, which cost €210 per night, are already dated.
Fully funded by Colonel Gaddafi, and formerly owned by the Libyan African Investment Company (LAICO), the hotel features 156 rooms and offers amenities such as a swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, tennis court, and multiple dining options.
During the Seleka government’s rule, the hotel was occupied by militia forces, with leader Michel Djotodia residing in the presidential suite.
In March 2022, the Arem Group acquired the hotel from LAICO, with Tunisian businessman Walid Arem taking over its operations.
A view of the swimming pool at the Ledger Plaza Bangui.
Despite its luxurious offerings, the hotel has faced challenges, including labor disputes in 2020, where local staff protested against poor working conditions and wage disparities compared to expatriate employees.
The WiFi system works, but at a snail’s pace. It’s extremely slow and will not support anything beyond checking emails. This is not a place to be uploading videos to social media.
Annoyingly, you have to log in every time you enter the hotel!
During my 5-night stay, there were constant power outages with no generators providing backup service.
Also, the room card-key expired every day and needed to be renewed by reception each morning.
Despite all the short-comings, the Ledger Plaza Bangui remains a significant establishment in the city, offering the best accommodation in the country, albeit at a high price with the average room price being €210 per night.
A view of the Ledger Plaza Bangui, which was funded by the former Libyan dictator – Colonel Gaddafi.
Rooms at the Ledger Plaza Bangui can be booked on booking.com
The swimming pool at the Ledger Plaza Bangui is very popular with visiting locals on the weekends.
Always at night, its best to have a torch next to your bed in case you need to get up during the night, when the power is normally off!
For those who need cash, there is an Eco Bank ATM in the lobby which accepts Visa and Mastercard.
Hotel Oubangui
A view of the Hotel Oubangui, which offers the best views in Bangui, but is an old and tired hotel which rates poorly among visitors.
Overlooking the Ubangi River, a short walk from the Maison Russe, the Hotel Oubangui offers panoramic views of the Ubangi River, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) on the opposite shore.
The hotel is old, tired and run down and has received plenty of negative reviews online from disappointed travellers.
Eating Out
During my time in Central African Republic, I ate most meals at the Ledge Plaza Bangui which offers OK food with OK service.
The hotel is aware of its monopoly position in a market which is under-served by quality hotels so the kitchen, and the staff, do not need to try too hard.
All meals in the hotel restaurant are served buffet-style while the hotel bar offers an à la carte menu of pizzas, hamburgers and sandwiches.
Visa Requirements
My visa for the Central African Republic, which was issued at Bangui Airport.
Almost everyone requires a visa to enter the Central African Republic.
Citizens of CEMAC (Economic and Monetary Community of Central Africa) enjoy visa-free travel.
This includes citizens of Cameroon, Chad, Republic of the Congo, Equatorial Guinea and Gabon.
My entry and exit stamps for the Central African Republic.
Generally, visas must be obtained in advance from an embassy.
My Message Porte which allowed me to fly to Bangui Airport where a visa was then issued upon arrival.
However, a visa-on-arrival (VOA) is possible for those visitors who have been issued with a Message Porte, which is similar to a Letter of Invitation (LOI) that you receive from a local contact, such as a local tour company.
This allows a person to fly to Bangui Airport where a visa will be placed into their passport.
A Message Porte, which takes around 2 weeks to issue, is the easiest way to enter the Central African Republic!
For more details, or to apply for a Message Porte, I recommend contacting my guide, Steve of Sway Travel in Bangui (please refer to the ‘Tour Guide‘ section above for more details).
The Visa Policy Map of the Central African Republic with countries in grey needing a visa.
Bangui M’Poko International Airport (IATA: BGF) is an international airport located seven kilometres northwest of Bangui.
The airport has a small passenger terminal offering basic services.
It can handle a limited number of international flights.
Facilities are modest and often considered underdeveloped, reflecting the economic situation of the country.
International flights are relatively limited and subject to change due to political and security issues in the country.
Despite its limited capacity, Bangui M’Poko remains a critical transportation hub for international aid, government travel, and connecting CAR to the outside world.
The following airlines operate scheduled services to/from Bangui M’Poko International Airport:
Afrijet – flies to/from Libreville
Air France – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
ASKY Airlines – flies to/from Douala
Camair-Co – flies to/from Douala
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/from Addis Ababa
Royal Air Maroc – flies to/from Casablanca
RwandAir – flies to/from Kigali
I flew to Bangui with Ethiopian Airlines which offers one daily flight from Addis Ababa.
Airport Transport
Hotels, such as the Ledger Plaza Hotel, offer airport shuttle services for guests.
It’s best to organise a shuttle transfer in advance.
Land
The Central African Republic is a landlocked country located in the heart of Africa.
It shares land borders with six neighbouring countries which include:
Chad – North
Border length: ~1,197 km (744 miles)
Geography: Mostly savanna and Sahel region; semi-arid and flat.
Key crossing point: Sido (CAR) to Sarh (Chad)
Sudan – Northeast
Border length: ~174 km (108 miles)
Terrain: Sparsely populated, with arid and rugged landscapes.
South Sudan – East
Border length: ~1,055 km (656 miles)
Terrain: Woodland and savanna, often remote and undeveloped.
Context: Border area has seen cross-border movements and instability.
Democratic Central African Republic (DRC) – South
Border length: ~1,577 km (980 miles)
Features: Includes the Ubangi River, which forms much of the natural border.
Important towns: Bangui (CAR’s capital) lies right along this river border.
Republic of the Congo – Southwest
Border length: ~487 km (303 miles)
Terrain: Dense rainforest and river systems.
Cameroon – West
Border length: ~901 km (560 miles)
Geography: A mix of forest, savanna, and rolling hills.
Key trade route: Douala (Cameroon) to Bangui, via the main road corridor.
Getting Around
A Central African Republic car license plate.
Public transport in the Central African Republic is relatively underdeveloped and informal, largely due to the country’s economic challenges and infrastructure limitations.
Roads outside of Bangui are often unpaved and poorly maintained, especially during the rainy season, which significantly impacts the availability and reliability of public transport.
Minibuses and Shared Vans (taxi-brousse)
These are used both within Bangui and for intercity travel.
They are often overcrowded and follow semi-fixed routes.
This is the most accessible form of public transport for many people.
Taxis
In Bangui, taxis are a common mode of transportation.
These are often shared among multiple passengers and can be flagged down on the street.
There are no formal meters, so fares must be negotiated in advance.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Republic of the Congo Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2024
Introduction
Tucked away in the heart of Central Africa, the Republic of the Congo is one of the continent’s best-kept secrets – a land of untamed wilderness, lush rainforests, and rich cultural heritage just waiting to be explored.
Art work in Brazzaville.
Often overshadowed by its larger neighbours, this is a country for adventurous spirits seeking a raw, authentic African experience far off the beaten tourist trail.
One of many contemporary paintings which are available for purchase from the Brazza-Art-Galerie in Brazzaville.
Unfortunately, people hear the word ‘Congo’ and automatically assume that it’s an unsafe, dangerous destination because ‘the Congo’ is often featured on the nightly news for all the wrong reasons.
However, there are two countries in Africa named “Congo” (as outlined below), the safe, peaceful and relaxed Republic of the Congo (which is the focus of this guide) and its neighbour, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) which is much more unstable, turbulent, unsafe, corrupt and the one everyone hears about for all the wrong reasons.
A Congolese artisan at a craft market in Brazzaville.
Visitors to the Republic of the Congo might be surprised to find that the country is very relaxed, safe and secure and that the locals are very friendly, welcoming and have a slight air of French sophistication, a legacy from the French colony period.
Brazzaville is home to many incredible African craft shops.
There is a thriving arts scene in Brazzaville which can be observed in the many craft markets and art galleries in Brazzaville.
The French influence is noticeable in the more affluent areas of Brazzaville where fine patisseries, cafés and bistros can be found.
Tintin in the Congo was the second volume of “The Adventures of Tintin”, the comics series by Belgian comic strip artist Hergé.
Further afield, National Parks offer the chance to see lowland Gorillas and a plethora of other African wildlife.
Exploring the National Parks however isn’t cheap with a typical daytrip from Brazzaville costing at least €400 per person.
Street art in Brazzaville.
I enjoyed my time in the Republic of the Congo, which was limited to a week-long stay in Brazzaville.
I look forward to returning one day to explore the country more fully.
Location
Brazzaville, Republic of the Congo
Straddling the Equator, the Republic of the Congo is located in Central Africa.
The Congo River separates Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of the Congo, from Kinshasa, the capital of the DRC, which can be seen in the distance.
It is bordered to the west by Gabon, to the northwest by Cameroon, to the northeast by the Central African Republic, to the southeast by the Democratic Republic of the Congo, to the south by the Angolan exclave of Cabinda, and to the southwest by the Atlantic Ocean.
Souvenir copper maps of the Republic of the Congo, showing all neighbouring countries.
The capital, and largest city, is Brazzaville (population: 2.2 million) which is located in the lush, green interior, on the banks of the mighty Congo River, across from Kinshasa, the much larger capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).
Did you know? With a length of 4,700 km (2,900 mi), the Congo River is the continent’s second longest river, after the Nile!
Located on the coast is the country’s 2nd largest city, and economic hub, Pointe-Noire (population: 1.4 million).
Why the two Congo’s?
The existence of two Congo’s is due to their distinct colonial histories.
The Congo, which always makes the nightly news cycle for all the wrong reasons, is the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), while the Republic of the Congo is much more peaceful, stable, relaxed, secure and a total joy to visit.
The capital of the Republic of the Congo is Brazzaville (population: 2.2 million), while the capital of the DRC is Kinshasa (population: 17.8 million). Both cities face each other across the Congo River.
Did you know? Kinshasa has the distinction of being the largest French-speaking city in the world!
The Republic of the Congo is often referred to as Congo-Brazzaville (after its capital) to avoid confusion with its much larger neighbour, the DRC or Congo-Kinshasa (after its capital).
The DRC has a population of 96 million, while Congo-Brazzaville has just 5 million.
With a surface area of 342,000 km², Congo-Brazzaville is around 7 times smaller than Congo-Kinshasa, which covers an area of 2,345,000 km².
Did you know? In terms of land area, the DRC is the 2nd largest country in Africa, after Algeria!
The Republic of the Congo was a French colony, while the Democratic Republic of the Congo was a Belgian colony, initially King Leopold II’s personal possession.
The Congo River formed a natural boundary between the two, with France controlling the territory to the west and Belgium to the east.
Throughout history, and even today, both countries have been exploited for their resources, although the DRC has always been known for its brutal exploitation, particularly of rubber and minerals.
French Congo
The French established the colony of French Congo in the late 19th century. It gained independence in 1960 and remains known as the Republic of the Congo.
Did you know? During WWII, when the Nazi’s occupied France, General Charles de Gaulle established a French government-in-exile which was headquartered in Brazzaville. He lived in Brazzaville from 1940 to 1943.
Belgian Congo
King Leopold II of Belgium controlled the territory that became the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), initially as a private possession, later becoming the Belgian Congo.
It gained independence in 1960, with its capital at Kinshasa, and was later known as Zaire under President Mobutu Sese Seko’s dictatorship.
Following the overthrow of Mobutu by Laurent-Désiré Kabila and his rebel forces, Zaire once again became the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) on May 17, 1997.
History
During WWII, General Charles de Gaulle established a French government-in-exile which was headquartered in Brazzaville.
The Republic of the Congo has a rich and complex history shaped by indigenous kingdoms, European colonisation, and post-independence political shifts.
Pre-Colonial Era
Before European contact, the area now known as the Republic of the Congo was home to several Bantu-speaking ethnic groups and powerful kingdoms such as the Kingdom of Kongo – one of the most prominent, which also extended into parts of modern Angola and the DRC.
Other kingdoms included the Teke and Loango, which had their own systems of governance and trade networks.
These societies engaged in trade with each other and with European merchants (especially the Portuguese) along the Atlantic coast as early as the 15th century.
Colonial Period
The Fresque de l’Afrique (Fresco of Africa) represents the history of the Congolese people and their struggle for independence.
In the late 19th century, French explorer Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza established a French protectorate over the area, signing treaties with local rulers.
The city of Brazzaville, founded in 1880, became the capital and a key administrative centre.
By 1910, the region was incorporated into French Equatorial Africa, a federation of French colonial territories in Central Africa, comprising Gabon, French Congo, Ubangi-Shari (now Central African Republic), and Chad. Its capital was Brazzaville.
The French exploited the land and its people, especially through forced labor and harsh conditions in rubber and timber extraction industries.
Resistance movements and local dissatisfaction grew over time.
Free France Movement
After France’s fall to the Nazi’s in 1940, Brazzaville became a focal point for Free France.
It served as the capital of Free French Africa, providing General Charles de Gaulle with a political and military base.
The Free France movement in Brazzaville played a crucial role in rallying support for General Charles de Gaulle’s resistance movement.
Brazzaville, the capital of French Equatorial Africa, became a key hub for Free France, offering legitimacy, manpower, resources, and a base for military operations.
The city hosted the Brazzaville Conference in 1944, where representatives from French African colonies met to discuss the future of the French colonial empire, marking a significant step in shaping the relationship between France and its colonies.
Independence and Early Years (1960s)
The Republic of the Congo gained independence from France on August 15, 1960.
Fulbert Youlou became the first president, but was overthrown in 1963 amid political unrest.
The country soon moved toward a Marxist-Leninist system under leaders like Marien Ngouabi, who declared the People’s Republic of the Congo in 1969 — making it the first Marxist state in Africa.
Socialism and Political Instability (1970s–1990s)
A series of instability, including coups and assassinations, marked this period.
Marien Ngouabi was assassinated in 1977, and Denis Sassou Nguesso came to power in 1979.
The country aligned itself with the Soviet Union and other communist states during the Cold War.
By the late 1980s and early 1990s, pressures for reform and the global decline of communism led to the abandonment of Marxism and the introduction of multi-party politics.
Civil War and Recent History (1990s–Present)
After a brief period of democratic governance, civil war erupted in 1997 between forces loyal to then-President Pascal Lissouba and former President Denis Sassou Nguesso.
Sassou Nguesso returned to power after the war and has remained a dominant figure ever since, often winning elections amid accusations of electoral manipulation and suppression of dissent.
The country has remained relatively stable compared to some of its neighbours, especially DRC, but continues to struggle with economic inequality, corruption, and political repression despite being rich in natural resources like oil and timber.
People
Always friendly and welcoming, this Congolese shop owner managed to sell me an elephant carved from Malachite.
Home to 5 million souls, the people of the Republic of the Congo are as vibrant and diverse as the landscapes they call home.
Known for their warmth, resilience, and strong cultural identity, the Congolese make up a society that blends ancient traditions with modern influences, city energy with village rhythms, and over a hundred ethnic groups into a remarkably cohesive national spirit.
Street art in Brazzaville.
The Republic of the Congo is home to over 60 ethnic groups, but most belong to larger ethnolinguistic families:
Kongo (Bakongo): The largest ethnic group, especially around Brazzaville and the southwest
Teke: Historically influential, especially in the central regions
Mbochi (or Mboshi): Predominantly in the north; President Denis Sassou Nguesso is from this group
Sangha and other forest peoples in the north and northwest, including some semi-nomadic groups
Traditional pottery masks for sale at a craft market in Brazzaville.
As for languages, French is the official language, used in government, education, and the media, while two major national languages are widely spoken:
Lingala: spoken in Brazzaville and along the Congo River
Kituba (or Munukutuba): a simplified Kongo language, common in Pointe-Noire and the south
Most people speak two or three languages, their ethnic language, plus Lingala or Kituba, and often some French.
Brazzaville is a city with a thriving art scene (such as this street art) and a renown musical scene.
Brazzaville, in particular, is known for its stylish and musicalvibe – it’s even home to the “Sapeurs”, the flamboyantly dressed men who treat fashion as high art.
A souvenir wooden tray featuring the ‘Sapeurs’ of Brazzaville.
Brazzaville is also home to a thriving art scene with many fine art galleries located in the downtown area.
Paintings for sale at a craft market in Brazzaville.
In terms of religion, Christianity is the dominant faith, mostly Roman Catholic, followed by Protestant denominations.
Despite the introduction of Christianity by French missionaries, traditional African religions are still practiced, often blended with Christianity.
Flag
The flag of the Republic of the Congo features the Pan-African colours of green, yellow and red.
The flag of the Republic of the Congo was adopted on September 15, 1959, just before the country gained independence from France in 1960.
The flag is distinct in that it is one of the few national flags that use a diagonal design.
Like many other African flags, the Congolese flag uses the Pan-African colours.
The flag is a diagonal tricolour that consists of three colours:
Green in the upper hoist-side triangle (top left)
Yellow in a diagonal band running from the bottom hoist-side corner to the top fly-side corner
Red in the lower fly-side triangle (bottom right)
Symbolism of the colors:
Green symbolises the Congo’s agriculture and forests.
Yellow represents friendship and nobility.
Red stands for the struggle for independence and the people’s courage.
Pan-African Colours
The traditional flag of Ethiopia, the colours of which have been adopted by numerous African nations.
Green, yellow and red, the colours of the flag of Ethiopia, have come to represent the pan-Africanist ideology due to the country’s history of having avoided being taken over by a colonial power.
Numerous African countries have adopted the colours into their national flags, and they are similarly used as a symbol by many Pan-African organisations and the Rastafari movement.
Countries whose flags use the Pan-African colours include – Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Republic of the Congo, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Senegal, São Tomé and Príncipe and Togo.
Currency
The currency of the Republic of the Congo is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF.
The currency of the Republic of the Congo is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF or sometimes written as FCFA (from Franc de la Coopération Financière en Afrique Centrale).
Apart from the Republic of the Congo, this currency is used by five other countries in Central Africa, including – Equatorial Guinea (click to view my travel guide), Cameroon, Chad, Central African Republic and Gabon.
The CFA franc is pegged to the Euro, with a fixed exchange rate, providing stability in international transactions.
Currently, €1 = 655.96 CFA francs.
This peg has meant that travel costs in all countries in the CFA zone are much higher than costs on the non-CFA countries.
The currency of the Republic of the Congo is the Central African CFA franc, which is the official currency of six central African nations.
The currency is issued and regulated by the Bank of Central African States (BEAC), which is the central bank for the Central African Economic and Monetary Community (CEMAC).
The bank is headquartered in Yaoundé, Cameroon, with the headquarters building featured on the front of all banknotes.
The CFA franc is denoted by the symbol “FCFA” or “XAF” and is available in both coins and banknotes.
Coins are available in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 500 francs, while banknotes are issued in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs.
Almost a full set of (uncirculated) CFA franc banknotes – with the 2,000 missing!
Credit Cards
Like almost all other African countries, cash is king in Republic of the Congo with credit cards rarely accepted.
It is advisable to have some local currency on hand for all transactions, as well as Euros for larger purchases or in case of emergencies.
ATMs
ATMs are available in Brazzaville, where you can withdraw cash using international debit or credit cards at any Eco Bank ATM.
Costs
The coffee menu at (café) Paul Congo.
As with any other former-French colony using the XAF currency in Central Africa, travel costs in the Republic of the Congo are higher than in the non-XAF countries.
In cosmopolitan Brazzaville, there are options for all budget levels from backpacker to top-end!
Meal at Paul Congo: XAF 10,000 – 15,000 (US$17.20 – $25.90)
Meal at Capital Hôtel: XAF 8,000 – 10,000 (US$13.80 – $17.20)
Standard hotel room at the Capital Hôtel: €80 (US$90.68)
Half day city tour with guide (Satch): €60 (US$68.00)
Tour Guides
After a hot and sweaty city tour, I treated my guide Satch (pictured right) and driver to lunch at Paul in Brazzaville.
During my time in Brazzaville, I did a city tour with Satch Obambi Ndinga – a native of Brazzaville who spent many years studying in Ghana and hence, speaks good English.
I spent my time in Brazzaville which is a fascinating mix of French colonial charm, African culture and scenic riverfront views, including some impressive art galleries and artisan markets.
Brazzaville is a shopping paradise!
The capital, and largest city of the Republic of the Congo, Brazzaville is quieter and more relaxed than many African capitals.
It has a slow, confident rhythm, friendly people, and a warm, humid climate year-round.
Sleek, slender and beautifully carved, there is no shortage of traditional masks for sale in the craft markets in Brazzaville.
It’s also considered one of Africa’s safest capitals, which makes walking around and exploring more comfortable for travellers.
At no stage was I harassed, hassled nor did I ever feel unsafe.
The locals were very friendly and welcoming and carrying my camera bag on the street was never a problem.
One of many paintings which are offered for sale at the wonderful Brazza-Art-Galerie in Brazzaville.
It might not be as flashy as some capital cities, but Brazzaville is full of unique character and low-key gems, including an African version of the Statue of Liberty.
Following is a guide to some of the top sights and experiences in Brazzaville, the laid-back yet lively heart of the Republic of the Congo.
Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica
With its striking green tiled roof, Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica is one of the most iconic structures in Brazzaville.
An iconic symbol of Brazzaville, the striking Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica was built in 1943 by a Protestant French architect named Roger Erell.
Erell created the most striking of churches using a unique design blend of Gothic Architecture and local Congolese influences, making it stand out among colonial-era religious structures.
A view of the exterior of Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica, which blends European and African design elements.
The basilica was constructed with baked bricks and locally sourced materials, adding a regional authenticity to its construction.
At that time of its construction, Brazzaville was the official capital of Free France, the government-in-exile led by Charles de Gaulle that continued to fight against Hitler even after France had fallen.
The basilica was envisioned as a strong and visible symbol of the power of Free France and was intended to be the “sanctuary of remembrance of Free France”.
A grotto, next to Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica, is a popular spot for praying locals.
Charles De Gaulle was a keen supporter of the construction of Sainte-Anne’s church, and provided a substantial donation of 800,000 Francs.
A stained-glass window at Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica features a portrait of Charles de Gaulle.
Today, a stained-glass window in the church features a portrait of the former General, in recognition of his generous donation towards construction costs.
The church wasn’t consecrated until 1949, several years after the war had ended, and even then, its construction was incomplete.
In 2011, the spire of the bell tower was finally finished.
A view of the nave of Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica.
From a classical Latin cross point of view, the church is a building of vast proportions using a very sharp pointed arch inspired by the spearheads of northern Congo.
Evoking the emerald-coloured rainforest which surrounds Brazzaville, the roof of St Anne’s is covered with 240,000 green glazed tiles.
The 240,000 green glazed tiles which cover the roof, and the soaring spire, are symbolic of the equatorial rainforest which surrounds Brazzaville.
The entrance to Sainte-Anne of the Congo Basilica is through these striking copper doors, which were designed by sculptor Albert Gilles.
Entrance to the Basilica is through a large, extremely pointed, arched door.
This pointed arch is inspired by spearheads of the Zande culture of Southern Congo.
The main doors to the church feature two giant copper panels.
These copper doors, a notable part of the church’s architecture, were crafted by the sculptor Albert Gilles.
The doors were initially located at St. Joseph Church in Quebec City.
The interior of the basilica features pointy arches, inspired by Congolese spears.
The interior of the basilica features pointy, arches, inspired by Congolese spears, columns, and stained-glass windows – all of which create a solemn and inspiring atmosphere.
Nabemba Tower
Nabemba Tower is the tallest building in the Republic of the Congo.
The tallest building in the Republic of the Congo, this modern skyscraper is named after Mount Nabemba, the country’s highest peak (1,020 metres).
At 106 metres and 30 floors, Nabemba Tower is the tallest building in the Republic of the Congo.
It is named after Mount Nabemba, the highest mountain in the country which has an elevation of 1,020 metres (3,346 ft).
The tower was built with borrowed funds from the French oil company Elf Aquitaine and is also known as the Elf Tower.
The tower was designed by Jean Marie Legrand during the government’s five-year plan and was built between 1983 and 1986.
While it’s mostly used for government offices and not open to the public, it’s still a prominent part of the Brazzaville skyline and a popular photo stop for visiting tourists.
Despite it being considered by some as an architectural gem, local architect Norbert Mbila has said repeatedly that the tower is nothing more than a “symbolic building which was built purely for prestige and it is neither necessary nor useful for such a poor country”.
The annual running costs of the building are around €3.5 million which is an outrageous sum of money for such a poor country.
Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza Memorial
A statue of Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza, the French explorer of Italian origin, who founded Brazzaville in October 1880.
In the heart of Congo’s capital stands a white-marble mausoleum which houses the remains of Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza, the French explorer of Italian origin, who founded Brazzaville in October 1880.
Installed in front of the mausoleum is a statue of the man himself.
With his family’s financial help, de Brazza explored the Ogooué region of Central Africa, and later, with the backing of the Société de Géographie de Paris, he explored the interior of the Congo, travelling along the right bank of the Congo River, where he founded Brazzaville.
Under French colonial rule, the capital of the Republic of the Congo was named Brazzaville after him and the name was retained by the post-colonial rulers.
Statue of Liberty Monument
An African version of the Statue of Liberty is installed outside Brazzaville Train Station.
Standing sentinel, outside Brazzaville Train Station (Gare de Brazzaville), is an African version of the Statue of Liberty.
The statue was inaugurated on December 28, 2009, by the President of the Congo and the Minister of Culture and the Arts.
At the time, the main square in front of Gare de Brazzaville was renamed “Place de la Liberté”.
The task of sculpting the statue was entrusted to the Mansudae Art Studio, the leading North Korean art studio which is located in Pyongyang and is featured in my North Korea Travel Guide.
Classically inspired by the American version, which was designed by the French Bartholdi and Eiffel, the woman holds the “inextinguishable” flame of Liberty in one hand and a “tablet of the Law” in the other.
This Africanised version is draped in a traditional Congolese loincloth.
Marché Plateau Craft Market
The Marché Plateau craft market in Brazzaville, features a treasure trove of locally carved masks and soap-stone sculptures.
The Marché Plateau craft market in Brazzaville is brimming with, locally-made, arts and crafts which make for fabulous souvenirs.
Available at the Marché Plateau craft market, metallic maps of the Republic of the Congo make for unique souvenirs.
A rabbit warren of tight laneways, you can find everything at the Marché Plateau craft market, from textiles and art to handicrafts, jewellery and much more.
The Marché Plateau craft market in Brazzaville is a shopper’s paradise.
The market is known for local handicrafts and can be a stimulating place to bargain for authentic Congolese items, especially carved Malachite items which is made from locally-sourced Malachite.
Sourced from local mines, Malachite stone carvings are plentiful at the Marché Plateau craft market in Brazzaville.
Galerie-Art-Brazza
A must visit sight in Brazzaville, Brazza-Art-Galerie is a private art gallery which was established by Sandra Plachesi, a native of France who has lived in Brazzaville for many years.
Brazzaville is a true paradise for artists and art lovers where the art scene is alive and thriving.
The gallery exhibits and eclectic collection of paintings and sculptures by emerging and established African artists.
There are several art galleries around the city which showcase works by local Congolese artists (from both Congo’s).
One such gallery is the Brazza-Art-Galerie.
The aim of the gallery is to promote the works of local Gongolese artists.
The gallery was founded by Sandra Plachesi, a native of France who has lived in Brazzaville for more than ten years and is a keen collector and promoter of local art.
The Brazza-Art-Galerie is known for its program of exhibiting radical local art.
The aim of the gallery is to promote the works of local artists with all works available for purchase.
The Brazza-Art-Galerie features several galleries where the works of contemporary Congolese artists are exhibited.
The gallery exhibits and eclectic collection of paintings and sculptures by emerging and established African artists.
Worldwide shipping is available on any large purchase.
The entrance to Brazza-Art-Galerie which is located in downtown Brazzaville.
Contact Details for Galerie-Art-Brazza
Address: 213 rue de la Musique Tambourinée –Brazzaville
Fresque de l’Afrique (Fresco of Africa) represents the history of the Congolese people, from the pre-colonial period to the introduction of socialism in the 1960s.
The “Fresque de l’Afrique” (Fresco of Africa), sometimes called The People Speak to the People, is a work made in 1970 on commission from the Congolese state during the presidency of Marien Ngouabi.
My guide, Satch, being strong, alongside the strong warrior, on the Fresque de l’Afrique in Brazzaville.
Composed of hundreds of hand-painted ceramic tiles, it represents the history of the Congolese people, from the pre-colonial period to the introduction of socialism in the 1960s.
The Fresco of Africa depicts the persecution of the Congolese people by European colonial powers, including enforced slavery.
The art piece was made by four Congolese artists, Michel Hengo, Émile Mokoko, André Ombala and Jean Itoua, supervised by the Italian artist Dégo.
The Fresco of Africa depicts the Congolese rising up to fight against the colonial powers in order to win their independence.
The fresco was originally signed “The people speak to the people”, before its creators were allowed to add their signatures in the 1980s.
Charles de Gaulle Memorial
A memorial to Charles de Gaulle, and the Free French movement, is installed in Place De Gaulle (De Gaulle Square).
As outlined in the Historysection above, Brazzaville served as the capital of the Free France movement from 1940 to 1943.
Unfortunately, the (mosaic) face of de Gaulle has been shot twice by bullets!
During this period, it served as the capital of Free French Africa, providing General Charles de Gaulle with a political and military base.
As head of the Free France movement, General Charles de Gaulle lived in Brazzaville from 1940 to 1943.
A memorial to Charles de Gaulle, and the Free French movement, is installed in Place De Gaulle (De Gaulle Square).
15th of August Bridge
Located on the Corniche, the “15th of August” bridge, is a suspension bridge that commemorates the country’s independence from France on August 15, 1960.
The 15th of August Bridge, officially named Pont du 15 Août 1960, is a suspension bridge that spans a ravine alongside the Congo River.
This majestic bridge commemorates the country’s independence from France on August 15, 1960.
The bridge is a key part of the Corniche, which provides a faster route east out of the city, bypassing the congested city centre.
Kilometre Zero
“Kilometre Zero” in Brazzaville is the symbolic point from which for all road distances within the country are measured.
Set in a shady park next to the 15th of August Bridge, “Kilometre Zero” is the symbolic point from which for all road distances within the country are measured.
The exact spot is marked by a large tiled compass with different countries and Congolese towns indicated at different compass points.
Les Rapides
A view of the rapids on the Congo River from Les Rapides bar and restaurant with, Kinshasa (DRC) in the background.
Close to where the Djoué River empties into the much larger Congo River, is Les Rapides, a series of impressive, raging rapids which would be rated off-the-scale in the world of white-water rafting!
Lining the banks of the Congo River are a few garden restaurants which offer a panoramic and dramatic view of the tossing, boiling, furious water.
As seen from the terrace of Les Rapides, young dare-devil kids swim in the turbulent waters of the raging Congo River.
The restaurants also offer a view of the dare-devil kids who love to swim in the less-turbulent waters closer to shore.
I invited my guide and driver to a refreshing drink at a popular restaurant and bar called Bar RestaurantLes Rapides.
A view of the Congo River (with DRC on the opposite shore) from Bar Restaurant Les Rapides.
The Congo River is most definitely Brazzaville’s best feature and makes the city what it is.
The gift shop at the Bar Restaurant Les Rapides.
There are many bars and restaurants which offer views of the Congo River.
Bantu Beach
Bantu Beach is a popular recreation spot for locals who wish to cool off in the calm, refreshing waters of the Djoué River.
Located at the point where the Djoué River flows into the Congo River, a sandy inland beach, Bantu Beach is a popular recreation spot for locals who wish to cool off in the calm, refreshing waters of the less powerful Djoué River.
Bantu Beach is located at the point where the Djoué River (seen above) flows into the mighty Congo River.
Visitors have a choice of relaxing under the shade of thatched cabana’s or sitting at chairs and tables which have been placed at the edge of the Djoué River, where one can immerse their feet in the cool river water.
Visitors can sit at chairs and tables which have been placed at the edge of the Djoué River, allowing one to immerse one’s feet in the cool river water.
Local boatman can be hired to row you to nearby islands where you can enjoy a close-up view of the rapids on the raging Congo River.
Djoué River Barrage
A view of the Djoué River Barrage from the Brazzaville Beach Hotel.
Located on the outskirts of town, 10 km south-west of downtown Brazzaville, the Brazzaville Beach Hotel offers pleasant rooms, a swimming pool and restaurant all of which overlooks the Djoué River and the nearby Djoué River barrage (dam).
The grounds of the Brazzaville Beach Hotel, which overlooks the Djoué River dam.
The hotel restaurant and pool are popular with local visitors on the weekend.
Pink Sandstone Quarry
A view of the pink sandstone quarry on the banks of the Congo River, where hard-working labourers use hammer and chisels to chip away the sandstone bedrock manually.
Located on the banks of the Congo River is a pink sandstone quarry where hard-working labourers use hammer and chisels to slowly break the sandstone bedrock into smaller fragments which are then used for the construction and landscaping industry.
Many of the labourers are illegal immigrants from neighbouring DRC and, understandably, did not want their photo taken.
My guide explained that many of the labourers are illegal immigrants from neighbouring DRC and, understandably, did not want their photo taken.
They are paid a minimal wage for a very hard days’ work with both young (children) and old working to break the large sandstone chunks into smaller pieces.
The pink sandstone is broken down into small pieces which are then used in the construction and landscaping industries.
Who is the buyer?
Located nearby is a Chinese-owned rock processing plant!
The pink sandstone quarry spans a huge area with hundreds of labourers working in small tenements.
Accommodation
Capital Hôtel
My comfortable and spacious room at the Capital Hôtel, which cost around €80 per night and included buffet breakfast, airport shuttle and free laundry service.
Located in the Plateau district of Brazzaville, the 5-star Capital Hôtel provides 15 spacious, clean rooms, a garden (but no pool), free private parking, a shared lounge, restaurant and a terrace.
My room at the Capital Hôtel including this small sitting room.
Rooms, which cost around €80, can be booked on booking.com
My bathroom at the Capital Hôtel in Brazzaville.
The friendly staff made me feel very welcome and went out of their way to ensure my stay was an enjoyable one.
The hotel includes free shuttle service to/ from the airport and even a free laundry service.
Amazing!
A delicious buffet breakfast is included in the cost of all rooms at the Capital Hôtel.
Also included in the room price is a wonderful buffet breakfast each morning, which is served in the hotel’s restaurant.
The menu, at the Capital Hôtel restaurant in Brazzaville.
The hotel restaurant is operated by young, friendly Lebanese chef with a menu which is heavy on Lebanese offerings.
The amazing beef shish kebabs which were prepared by the Lebanese chef at the Capital Hôtel.
I especially recommend any of the shish-kebab meals, such as the incredible beef shish-kebabs, with three giant-size kebabs, which were served with fries and a fiery piri-piri sauce.
The hotel is a short taxi ride from downtown with a taxi fare typically costing XAF 1,000.
Maya-Maya International Airport is just 3 km (1.9 mi) away!
The Capital Hôtel is a wonderful hotel and one I would highly recommend.
Eating Out
Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of the Congo, boasts a vibrant culinary scene that reflects its rich cultural tapestry.
From traditional Congolese fare to international cuisines, Brazzaville offers everything from sophisticated to traditional market food.
A popular dish is Moambe (Poulet Moambe), a dish made with chicken stewed in a thick, rich sauce of palm butter (moambe), spices, and sometimes peanut butter and normally served with rice or cassava.
Staple foods include:
Cassava (manioc): The cornerstone of many meals. It’s usually boiled, pounded into dough-like fufu, or dried and ground into flour to make chikwangue (fermented cassava wrapped in banana leaves).
Plantains: Fried, boiled, or grilled, they’re a common accompaniment.
Rice and maize: Also popular, especially in urban areas.
Restaurants
Paul Congo
The French patisserie chain – Paul – offers freshly baked French bread, the most divine, freshly made pastries and excellent barista-made coffee.
I’m a big fan of the French Patisserie chain – Paul – and I was happy to find a branch of this fine French culinary institution in Brazzaville, where it is known as Paul Congo!
Tip: For anyone visiting neighbouring Gabon, it’s worth noting that there are three branches of Paul in Libreville (I visited all of them), including one at the airport.
The dining room at Paul in Brazzaville, with its images of a very distant Paris, which is the dream destination for most Congolese.
In both Brazzaville and Libreville, Paul’s are operated as franchises by local Lebanese businessmen.
I believe the world would be a better place if every city had at least one Paul.
Lunch at Paul in Brazzaville, featuring a French classic – Croque Madame – with a freshly made ice tea.
I’m not ashamed to admit that I visited Paul in Brazzaville on a daily basis.
A cappuccino and a freshly made mille-feuille, the perfect afternoon tea at Paul in Brazzaville.
Paul is home to amazing, barista-made, coffee, the most divine selection of freshly made pastries, freshly baked, crusty baguettes and a menu offering excellent French cuisine.
Heaven!
Bar Restaurant Les Rapides
The shady garden at the Bar Restaurant Les Rapides, which is located 9 km south-west of downtown Brazzaville.
Located on the Congo River, 9 km (5.5 mi) south-west of downtown Brazzaville, is Les Rapides, a rocky section of the river which is full of raging rapids.
The menu at Bar Restaurant Les Rapides, which overlooks the rapids on the Congo River.
This is the setting for several riverside bars and restaurants where locals come to relax in shady gardens while viewing the many brave young boys who enjoy swimming in the rapids.
Visa Requirements
My Congolese visa which was issued at the Republic of the Congo embassy in Paris.
The Visa Policy of the Republic of Congo with grey countries needing a visa in advance.
Passport holders from the Central African Economic and Monetary Community (CEMAC) enjoy visa-free access to the Republic of Congo.
This includes passport holders from Gabon, Cameroon, the Central African Republic (CAR), Chad, the Republic of the Congo and Equatorial Guinea.
Almost all other nationalities are required to visit a Republic of the Congo embassy to obtain a visa.
The Republic of the Congo embassy in Paris, which is located a short walk from the Arc de Triomphe.
Online Visa Application (Paris Embassy Only)
Visa applications can be submitted online at the Republic of the Congo embassy in Paris; however, you are still required to physically attend the embassy to submit your passport (and wait the required number of days) before returning to collect your passport.
Even though the visa application form asks for your email address, at no time did I receive any emails from the system.
Luckily, I have the habit of taking screenshots as I work and these served as the only record I had of my application.
You should ensure you take screen shots of:
the completion page of your visa application (which will include an application number)
the payment receipt page
the passport submission appointment page
The application form is only available in French, although Google Chrome will offer English translation.
Online Visa Payment
Once you have completed the 7 pages of the form, you will be taken to a payment page where payment can be made using credit card.
The following visa fees apply at the Paris embassy:
15-day tourist visa (normal processing time – i.e. 7 business days): €55
15-day tourist visa (express processing time – i.e. 3 business days): €110
Embassy Appointment
Once you have completed your application and made payment, you will be taken to an appointment page where you select the day and time on which you wish to attend the embassy in Paris to deposit your passport.
Submitting your Passport at the Paris Embassy
When I arrived at the Paris embassy, no one was interested in seeing my appointment slip, they simply serve whoever comes through the door.
If you have submitted your application online, you simply need to handover your passport and a printout which shows your visa application number.
Collecting your Passport and Visa at the Paris Embassy
You then return after the required number of business days (they will advise you of the collection date) to collect your passport and visa.
Passports can only be collected after 2pm on the day of collection.
Republic of the Congo Paris Embassy Contact Details:
Address: 37 Bis Rue Paul Valéry, 75116 Paris, France
Maya-Maya Airport (IATA: BZV) is the international airport of Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo.
The airport is located 5.6 km (3.4 mi) from downtown Brazzaville.
The airport boasts three air bridges which were installed as part of a new, Chinese-built, terminal that opened in 2010, alongside a new 3,300-metre runway. In 2013, the Chinese expanded the airport further.
The following airlines operate scheduled services to/from Maya-Maya Airport:
Afrijet – flies to/ from Libreville
Air Côte d’Ivoire – flies to/ from Abidjan, Accra, Libreville, Kinshasa–N’djili
Air France – flies to/ from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
ASKY Airlines – flies to/ from Kinshasa–N’djili, Lomé
Camair-Co – flies to/ from Douala
Canadian Airways Congo – flies to/ from Impfondo, Ouesso, Pointe-Noire
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/ from Addis Ababa
Kenya Airways – flies to/ from Luanda, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Mauritania Airlines – flies to/ from Bamako, Cotonou, Nouakchott
Royal Air Maroc – flies to/ from Casablanca
RwandAir – flies to/ from Cotonou, Kigali
TAAG Angola Airlines – flies to/ from Luanda
Trans Air Congo – flies to/ from Douala, Libreville, Pointe-Noire
Arrival in Brazzaville
Upon arrival at Maya-Maya International Airport, there are two checkpoints before you reach immigration.
The first is a health check point where you must show your Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate.
You must be vaccinated in order to be allowed to enter the country.
The second check point is a police check point which is directly in front of immigration.
The police will check your passport, proof of return flight, hotel booking and a Letter of Invitation (LOI)!
Myself, and most other foreigners which arrived on my flight, did not have an LOI.
We were made to sit in a corner and wait while an immigration official called our hotels to ensure we had confirmed reservations.
Once the hotel confirmed my reservation, I was then allowed to proceed to immigration where I was stamped into the country!
While the entry process took time, all officials were friendly and courteous and never asked for money.
Note: The LOI requirement is also enforced at Libreville airport.
If you arrive at Libreville without an LOI, immigration will contact your hotel to confirm your reservation before allowing you to enter Gabon.
Airport Transport
Maya-Maya International Airport is located 5.6 km (3.4 mi) from downtown Brazzaville.
If you’re energetic (or on a tight budget), you could walk from the airport to your hotel.
My hotel, the wonderful Capital Hôtel, was located just 3 km (1.9 mi) from the airport.
My hotel included a free shuttle service.
From the airport into downtown, a taxi will cost between XAF 1,000 – 2,000.
Land
The Republic of the Congo shares land borders with Cameroon, Central African Republic, DRC, Gabon and Angola (Cabinda exclave).
Many of these crossings are located in remote forested regions, and road conditions can vary widely.
Security can sometimes be a concern in border regions, especially near the Central African Republic.
Cameroon
The border between the Republic of the Congo and Cameroon is 523 km in length and includes two key crossings:
Sangmélima – Ouesso: A well-known northern crossing via road connecting Cameroon’s southern region to the Congolese town of Ouesso.
Ntam – Souanké: Another border post used for regional trade and travel.
Central African Republic (CAR)
The border between the Republic of the Congo and Central African Republic (CAR) is 487 km in length and includes two key crossings:
Mobaye – Dongou: Located in the northeast, this crossing allows travel and trade between CAR and northern Congo.
Bangui (via river) – Likouala region: The Ubangi River serves as a natural border, with boat crossings from Bangui into Likouala.
Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)
The border between the Republic of the Congo and Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) is 1,229 km in length and includes three key crossings:
Brazzaville – Kinshasa: The most prominent and heavily used crossing via ferry over the Congo River – one of the busiest urban river crossings in Africa.
Louzala – Luozi: A lesser-known crossing further south along the river border.
Louziba – Tshela: In the Bas-Congo area (Kongo Central)
Gabon
The border between the Republic of the Congo and Gabon is 1,903 km (the longest) in length and includes three key crossings:
Lekoko – Mbinda: Important for rail and road transport; connects to the COMILOG railway.
Lékoko (border post) – Franceville route: Road access through the forests of southeastern Gabon.
Ndendé – Dolisie: One of the most active border crossings with road infrastructure.
Angola
The border between the Republic of the Congo and Angola (Cabinda exclave) is 201 km in length and includes two key crossings:
Massabi – Cabinda: A major legal crossing between the Republic of the Congo and Angola’s Cabinda enclave.
Yema – Cabinda: Another used but less formalized crossing.
Sea
One cruise ship company which calls at Point-Noire is Swan Hellenic on their Southwest Africa Cruise.
Very few cruise ships visit the Republic of the Congo, but one cruise ship company which calls at Pointe-Noire is Swan Hellenic on their Southwest Africa Cruise.
Getting Around
I did a city tour of Brazzaville with a guide and a taxi driver.
Public Transport
Public buses are the most affordable way to travel around Brazzaville.
They serve various routes within the city, though they can sometimes be crowded or unreliable.
The fares are low, making buses a popular choice for locals.
Taxi
All taxis in Brazzaville are the same uniform green colour which is representative of the lush green forest which surrounds the city.
Taxis in Pointe-Noire are all coloured blue which symbolises the blue Atlantic Ocean which the city is located on.
Taxis are common and can be hailed on the street or booked by phone.
They are an easy way to get around the city with most trips costing aroundXAF 1,000 – 1,500.
Fares must be negotiated in advance but, because there are few tourists, I found drivers were always honest and quoted the same price.
Rental Cars
You can rent a car with a driver though most hotels.
That’s the end of my travel guide for the Republic of the Congo.
If you wish to leave feedback/ comments, you can do so using the form below.
Safe Travels!
Darren
Further Reading
Following is a list of my travel content from the region:
This is a São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: April 2024
Introduction
A quiet, ideal paradise, the Central African island nation of São Tomé and Príncipe has been blessed with a relatively peaceful independence, thus avoiding the stigma of tension and a bloodstained past worn by most countries of mainland Africa.
A young girl, relaxing on Principe Island.
As a destination, this former-Portuguese colony is a relaxed, calm, safe and pleasant travel destination and much more affordable than its Central African neighbours.
A view of the east coast of São Tomé Island.
The country consists of two main islands, the larger São Tomé (854 km2 / 330 sq mi), and the much smaller Príncipe (142 km2/ 55 sq mi), as well as several smaller islets.
A panoramic view of Principe Island from the Terreiro Velho Plantation, home to some of the world’s finest cacao beans.
Both islands are heavily eroded volcanoes which are covered in verdant, undisturbed, rainforest, whose green canopy is pierced by ancient volcanic plugs.
The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.
The volcanic origin of the islands grants them a magnificent look and makes them perfect for exploration.
Downtown São Tomé features many fine examples of Portuguese colonial-era architecture.
São Tomé, which translates in English as “Saint Thomas”, was named by the Portuguese in honor of Saint Thomas, as they discovered the island on his feast day, while Príncipe Island (Prince’s island) was named in honor of Afonso, Prince of Portugal, the favourite son of the then King of Portugal.
The islands were occupied by the Portuguese from their discovery in 1470 until 1975, when independence was granted by Portugal.
Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café shows coffee plantation workers collecting beans.
Once uninhabited, over the centuries, the Portuguese imported a workforce of slave labour, from other Portuguese-speaking African colonies, to work on the many plantations on both São Tomé and Príncipe.
After 505 years of Portuguese occupation, which was marked by a building frenzy that resulted in more than 100 sprawling plantations (“Roças” in Portuguese) being built, São Tomé and Príncipe have been left an abundance of charming, colonial-era relics for tourists to explore.
Laundry, laid out to dry on the 1st floor balcony of the abandoned Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
One of the highlights of a trip to São Tomé and Príncipe is being able to visit the many abandoned roças, many of which were closed down after independence in 1975 and remain frozen in time.
The once-productive roças of São Tomé and Príncipe supplied Europe with most of its cacao and much of its coffee.
Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Unlike in other countries, the treasure trove of architectural gems, which were left by the Portuguese when they hurriedly departed the islands’ shores in the 1970s, remain largely untouched.
São Tomé and Príncipe is a charming and engaging travel destination offering pristine nature, friendly inhabitants and a fascinating history.
A painting, by a local Principe artist.
Highly recommended!
Location
São Tomé and Príncipe is a small island nation located in the Gulf of Guinea, off the western equatorial coast of Central Africa.
The islands lie 300 km (186 mi) due east of Libreville, the capital of Gabon, and 443 km (275 mi) south-west of Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea (click to view my Travel Guide).
Located close to the true centre of the world (GPS coordinates: 0° 20′ 11.5″ North / 6° 43′ 38.4″ East), São Tomé is located slightly north of the equator, while Principe is located 140 kilometres (87 miles) northeast of São Tomé.
São Tomé (St. Thomas), the capital, and largest city, of São Tomé and Príncipe is located on the Atlantic Ocean.
The islands are surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. The coastline features sandy beaches, lush rainforests, and volcanic mountain ranges.
Due to its equatorial location, São Tomé and Príncipe has a tropical climate with high humidity.
The islands experience two main seasons: a dry season from June to September and a wet season from October to May.
People
A young boy on São Tomé Island.
Did you know?
São Tomé and Príncipe is the second-smallest and second-least populous African sovereign state after Seychelles.
The islands were uninhabited until their discovery in 1470 by Portuguese explorers João de Santarém and Pedro Escobar.
Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Gradually colonised by the Portuguese, and settled throughout the 16th century, they collectively served as a vital commercial and trade centre for the Atlantic slave trade.
Colourful artwork by a São Tomé artist.
The rich volcanic soil and proximity to the equator made São Tomé and Príncipe ideal for sugar cultivation, followed later by cash crops such as coffee and cocoa; the lucrative plantation economy was heavily dependent upon enslaved Africans.
The population consists mainly of Forros (from forro, Portuguese for “free man”), descendants of immigrant Europeans and enslaved Africans who were imported to work on the many plantations.
The Santomean today are largely descendants of former African slaves, which were bought to the islands from other lusophone (Portuguese- speaking) countries throughout Africa, notably Angola, Mozambique and Cape Verde.
Young girls, relaxing on Principe Island.
The largest city, with a population of 72,000, is the capital – São Tomé – which is located on the northeastern coast of São Tomé Island.
Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.
Having been a Portuguese colony from 1470 CE until 1975 CE, the people of São Tomé and Príncipe are a blend of African and Portuguese.
No shortage of smiles from the friendly locals on São Tomé and Príncipe.
Culturally, São Tomé and Príncipe is a blend of African and Portuguese heritage.
You’ll find elements of traditional African music, dance, and art mixed with Portuguese language and Catholic religion.
No shortage of warm smiles from the friendly inhabitants of São Tomé and Príncipe.
The official language of São Tomé and Príncipe is Portuguese, due to its colonial history. However, many people also speak Forro, a Portuguese-based creole language that developed on the islands.
Almost no other languages are spoken, however French is spoken by the small community of Gabonese who have settled in the country for economic reasons.
The majority of the population is Roman Catholic, a legacy of Portuguese colonisation. However, there are also small Protestant and indigenous religious communities.
The people of São Tomé and Príncipe often lead a laid-back, island lifestyle.
Fishing is a significant part of the economy and culture, so you’ll see many locals involved in fishing activities.
Crime rates are very low, making São Tomé and Príncipe one of the safest countries in Africa to visit.
The people of São Tomé and Príncipe are known for their warm hospitality and friendliness toward visitors. It’s not uncommon for locals to strike up conversations with tourists and share their love for their islands.
Overall, the people of São Tomé and Príncipe offer a warm welcome to visitors, and their culture reflects a rich tapestry of African and European influences.
Flag
The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe.
The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe consists of a red triangle situated at the hoist, with three horizontal green, yellowand greenbands charged with two five-pointed black stars of Africa at the centre.
The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe, in a park in downtown São Tomé.
The two greenstripes represent the lush vegetation of the islands, as São Tomé and Príncipe are known for their tropical forests and natural beauty.
The yellowstripe symbolises the country’s rich cocoa production, an important part of its economy. It also represents the equator, as the islands are situated just north of the equator.
The two black stars of Africa stand for the two main islands of the country, São Tomé and Príncipe. They also represent African solidarity and independence.
The redtriangle evokes the “struggle for independence”, as well as equality.
Flag street art in downtown Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
The flag was adopted on November 5, 1975, when São Tomé and Príncipe gained independence from Portugal.
The flag was designed by artist and poet Alda Neves da Graça do Espírito Santo, who also wrote the national anthem.
The green, red, yellow, and black colours are known as the ‘pan-African’ colours and are found on the flags of other African nations, symbolising unity with the continent.
Currency
The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.
The official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe is the dobra, which is named after the Portuguese word for “dollar”, and has the international currency code of STN.
Locally, the currency is abbreviated as ‘DBs‘.
The dobra is divided into 100 units called cêntimos, but due to inflation, cêntimos are not commonly used anymore.
Following record inflation, banknotes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 dobra’s were issued in 2018 with the redenomination of the dobra.
My wad of one hundred, uncirculated, 10-dobra banknotes.
The 5- and 10-dobra notes were printed in polymer, and all the banknotes featured various species of butterfly on the obverse side with local wildlife depicted on the reverse side.
In 2020, the Central Bank of São Tomé and Príncipe issued a new version of the 200-dobra banknote, to replace the previous version caused by the poor quality of the paper used to print the note.
At the time, the 5- and 10-dobra banknotes reverted back to paper, as the polymer versions of the two denominations were unsuitable due to the tropical environment of São Tomé and Príncipe.
The dobra is a restricted currency, with its import and export prohibited.
For those who collect currency, the only way to obtain crisp, clean notes is from a bank branch in Sao Tome. I was able to purchase a wad of 100, uncirculated, 10-dobra banknotes.
Throughout the country, bank notes are almost always old, stained, damp, torn, creased and in very bad condition.
In fact, some locals were keen to swap my new notes as they had rarely seen such clean notes.
Exchange Rates
The current (July 2024) dobra exchange rates are (click the links to view the current exchange rates):
The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Like many other countries in Africa, cash is king in São Tomé and Príncipe!
Since you are unable to use credit cards or ATMs in the country, you should bring enough EUR/ USD cash to cover all your expenses.
Banks/ ATM’s
While banks in São Tomé and Príncipe offer the convenience of ATMs, and those ATMs display the usual promising logos – i.e. Mastercard, Visa, Cirrus and Maestro, ATMsare not connected to the international banking network.
ATMs operate only on the domestic network for domestic bank card holders.
Credit Cards
Apart from the top-end hotels, credit cards are not accepted in São Tomé and Príncipe.
Those establishments which do accept credit cards, such as the Pestana Miramar Hotel in São Tomé, normally only accept Visa card!
Costs
Compared to the high travel costs in neighbouring Central African countries, São Tomé and Príncipe offers much better value and is suitable for all types of travellers from budget to high-end.
Budget travellers should count on spending between EUR €50-100 per day, while a mid-range budget would be around double that.
For high-end travellers, and celebrities escaping the limelight, a one-bedroom villa at the very secluded Sundy Praia Lodge on Principe Island start from just US$1,350 per night. A bargain really!
Note:
Since ATMs and credit cards cannot be used in the country, you must bring all of the cash which you’ll need for your holiday.
Booking, and paying, online for accommodation is one way to reduce the amount of cash you’ll need to carry.
São Tomé and Príncipe were uninhabited prior to colonisation by the Portuguese in the 1490s.
Since then, much of the landscape has remained unchanged or, where former plantations once stood, reclaimed by the rainforests.
The islands are covered by lush rainforests and, with a small population, very little development, and very few tourists, they remain an untouched veritable tropical paradise.
Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.
Among the human-made sights on the islands are the many Portuguese-era colonial buildings.
Totally unrenovated, many of these former architectural wonders remain largely unchanged from colonial times.
Essential for every visitor is a tour of one of the islands’ colonial-era plantations – roças – which lie in many different states, from centuries-old buildings slowly being overgrown by rainforest, to lovingly refurbished ones operating as bed-and-breakfasts.
Tour Guides
On both São Tomé and Príncipe islands, I organised a rental car through my guest house.
In both instances, I was offered a driver/ guide which I willing accepted.
Touring the islands can be difficult due to a lack of signage and the poor infrastructure.
Dirt roads in many places are very rough, muddy and almost impassable.
However, with a local driver, who is use to the conditions, travel is made easier.
São Tomé Guide/ Driver
My guide on São Tomé, Elisio Nunes took me to this remote, hidden location which offered a spectacular view of the iconic Pico Cão Grande.
When I rented my 4WD through my guest house in São Tomé, it was delivered by Elisio Nunes who is the young, energetic and enthusiastic owner of Sãoto Tour & Cars.
His company can organise day trips to any part of São Tomé, including boat excursions, and rental cars.
Day trips start at EUR €60, while a rental car costs from EUR €40 per day.
While I intended to do a self-drive of the island, I realised that paying a little extra to have Elisio do the driving and guiding would be beneficial.
As an added bonus, Elisio speaks perfect English which is rare for a Santomean.
At the time of my visit, Elisio was busy organising a local delegation who were about to travel to Macau (a journey of three days) to attend a tourism summit. Elisio was acting as the head of the delegation!
Elisio is a very knowledgeable guide who managed to take me to some hidden places on São Tomé, including one remote beach which offered the best view of the iconic Pico Cão Grande.
Many of the more interesting sights lie at the end of unmarked, muddy, dirt, tracks which wind their way through the dense rainforest.
I can attest that having Elisio as my driver/ guide totally enhanced and enriched my experience of São Tomé.
I would highly recommend engaging the services of Elisio and his company for your trip to São Tomé.
Príncipe Guide/ Driver
My host, and guide, on Principe, Carlos Manuel, enjoying a drink at the Hotel Roça Sundy.
While on Principe, I rented a 4WD through my guest house, Residencial Brigada, which is owned by the very busy, and highly entrepreneurial, Carlos Manuel.
A native of Principe, who lived for many years in Lisbon, Carlos is very active on the local tourism scene and can organise any aspect of a trip to Principe.
He offers airport transfers, comfortable accommodation, car rental, guiding, sightseeing trips by land and sea, plus his talented wife cooks the most amazing meals, using produce from the local market.
All meals are served with freshly squeezed fruit juices.
Exploring Principe with my rental car and my guide/ driver – Rodrigo Lopes.
The cost of his one rental car is EUR €50 per day with an additional fee for a driver/ guide.
Normally Carlos (who speaks English) would offer his services as a driver/ guide.
However, on the day I hired my car, Carlos was busy in the morning so he offered me another guide, Rodrigo Lopes.
After lunch at the guesthouse, Carlos then took over, providing me with an afternoon of sightseeing.
Video:
Exploring Principe in my rental car with my driver/ guide Rodrigo Lopes.
There are many unmarked, muddy, dirt tracks on Principe and many of the best sights are to be found at the end of these tracks.
I was pleased that I had a local driver who knew where he was going. You could easily get lost in the dense rainforests on Principe.
A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.
The capital of São Tomé and Príncipe is also called São Tomé, which in English translates as “Saint Thomas”.
Though a third of the nation’s total population lives here (about 72,000 inhabitants), it feels like a giant village, wonderfully lively and compact.
The Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral is located on Praça do Povo (People’s Square) in the city centre.
Most buildings are Portuguese, colonial-era, relics which are in various states of decay which adds a certain amount of rustic charm to the city streets.
Praça da Independencia marks the centre of downtown São Tomé.
The city, which wraps around the waterfront, is easily covered on foot and is very relaxed.
A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.
Crime rates are very low and at no time did I feel threatened or unsafe.
The streets of São Tomé are lined with beautiful, and grand, Portuguese colonial-era buildings.
I was able to walk around with my camera and take photos of almost everything – although the guards outside the Presidential Palace will not allow you to take photos of the palace.
A park in downtown São Tomé.
The locals, who see very few tourists, are very friendly and welcoming.
Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral
Dating from the 15th century, the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral (Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) is one of Africa’s oldest churches.
While fairly humble as cathedrals go, the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral (English: Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) is one of Africa’s oldest, and a testimony to persistence, as it has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times in its 400-year history.
A view of the interior of the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of São Tomé.
Construction of the first church was started at the end of the fifteenth century. This original church was situated near the present cathedral.
A larger cathedral was constructed between 1576 and 1578, during the reign of King Sebastian of Portugal.
A view of the altar at the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral in São Tomé.
In 1784, the cathedral was in need of renovation and, in 1814, was rebuilt at the initiative of the local population.
The walls of the cathedral are lined with Azulejo a form of Portuguese painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework.
The last modification was made in 1956, when the church was remodeled in an eclectic revival style, with a neo-Romanesque main façade.
Given the limited opening hours, its best to visit whenever you see the doors open, which is usually for the midday mass.
San Sebastian Fort / National Museum
San Sebastian Fort houses the National Museum.
Built in 1575 by the Portuguese, Fort São Sebastião (San Sebastian Fort) was fully refurbished in 2006 and is now home to the São Tomé National Museum.
Built in 1575 by the Portuguese, Fort São Sebastião (San Sebastian Fort) was fully refurbished in 2006.
The fort is located on the waterfront, in the northeastern part of the city centre, at the southeastern end of Ana Chaves Bay.
The small museum contains religious art and colonial-era artifacts. This is the only history museum in the country.
Statues of the three Portuguese explorers who discovered São Tomé stand in the small praça in front of San Sebastian fort.
Outside of the fort stand three statues of the discoverers of São Tomé – João de Santarém, Pêro Escobar, and João de Paiva.
Shortly after independence, the statues were relocated here from other squares in the city so as not to remind the residents of the colonial past.
São Tomé Island – East Coast
Clothes Washing
Clothes washing is normally done in the rivers on São Tomé
Clothes washing in the countryside in Sao Tome is mostly done in the rivers – along with dishwashing and sometimes bathing.
Clothes washing in the countryside in Sao Tome is mostly done in the rivers.
Once the clothes have been washed, they are laid out on the hot river stones to dry.
Laying out the wet clothes to dry in the sun on the hot river stones.
This is not an unusual practice in Africa, but the pristine, natural, environment of São Tomé is unique in Africa.
Roça de Água Izé
The residential area of Roça de Água Izé, which was once used to house the many thousands of plantation worker’s.
One of the highlights of São Tomé is Roça Água Izé (Água Izé plantation), the first, and the most significant, of the cocoa plantations which were developed on São Tomé by the Portuguese.
A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé which today serves as an art gallery, library and community centre.
Around the turn of the 20th century, there were some 150 plantations on São Tomé and Príncipe.
A former workshop at Roça Água Izé, has now been repurposed as a mechanic’s workshop.
Set up by the Portuguese for the production of cocoa and coffee, these estates were self-contained, self-sufficient universes, operating largely outside the colonial administration’s remit.
A community library, and classroom, have been installed inside the abandoned production facility at Roça Água Izé.
Roça Água Izé is where commercial cocoa production first started on São Tomé in the mid 19th-century.
Art work adorns the wall of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé.
When the man responsible for introducing cocoa to the islands, João Maria de Sousa e Almeida, was made First Baron of Água Izé in 1868, he was the first mulatto nobleman in the Portuguese colonies.
The walls of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé have been converted into gallery space where local artists display their works.
Roça Água Izé once housed thousands of workers, many of whom were imported from Angola and Cape Verde.
A view of one of the former stove-houses at Roça Água Izé.
The plantation used to be a large complex with warehouses, a production facility which housed steam-operated machinery, a railway and the best hospital in this part of the world!
A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé, which still houses the old steam-driven equipment.
The main production facility, which still houses the old steam-driven equipment, has been converted into a multi-use art gallery, library and community centre.
An artisanal shop has been installed on the old processing equipment at Roça Água Izé.
In 1884, Água Izé had 50km of internal railway lines running through its 80km2 territory and 50 European employees overseeing 2,500 Angolan contract workers.
During its peak production period, cocoa from the plantation was exported to Portugal, from where it was then shipped to all corners of Europe.
In its prime, Roça Água Izé had 50km of internal railway lines running throughout the estate.
With independence in 1975, the world of the roças changed forever as some 200 plantations were nationalised.
While this move was widely supported, a lack of subsequent investment and dip in production saw many of the facilities fall into disrepair.
Today, the plantation has ceased production with many of the buildings now laying in various states of decay, slowly being consumed by the encroaching rainforest.
Most of the abandoned buildings are now occupied by squatters (descendants of the former plantation workers), who eke of an existence by cultivating the remaining cocoa and coffee plants.
Getting there: The roça appears on the roadside on the EN-2 just south of the km-16 marker.
Roça de Água Izé Hospital
My rental car parked outside the abandoned Roça de Água Izé Hospital, once rated as the biggest and best hospital in central Africa.
Built by the Portuguese in 1928, Roça de Água Izé Hospital was once considered to be the biggest and best hospital in central Africa.
A view of the 1st floor staircase at the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
Known for its impressive entrance staircase, the most famous building in the Água Izé plantation is now abandoned and in a state of extreme disrepair.
A view of the upper, rear, section of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
The now dark, dank and unlit rooms of this once marvelous facility are occupied by dozens of poor, squatter, families who try to make a living from growing crops on the surrounding land and charging the occasional tourist a small fee to allow access.
One the day we visited, the residents were busy washing their clothes, laying their laundry out to dry one the 1st floor balcony.
A view of the, now roofless, male ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
The former hospital wards, which are located at the rear of the hospital are now roofless and totally abandoned.
A view of the, now roofless, female ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
The whole complex is truly impressive and it’s easy to imagine, in the not-too-distant past, nurses and doctors tending to their patients in the various rooms of this hospital.
A view of the rear of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital, with the now roofless wards on the left side.
The hospital is located on a hill which overlooks the entire plantation estate.
A view out to sea from the 1st floor of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.
No doubt the elevated site was chosen as it receives a direct sea breeze which would have been beneficial to the many patients.
Praia Izé Viewpoint
A panoramic view of Praia Izé from the mirador snack shop.
Just in front of the abandoned hospital, a short garden path leads to a snack shop which affords spectacular views of Praia Izé and beyond.
Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell)
The Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), is a small blowhole on the east coast of São Tomé.
Immediately south of the plantation, a side road leads to Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), a small blowhole.
Video:
A view of the Boca do Inferno on a calm day.
When the condition of the sea is right, water is pressed through the natural rock channel and through a hole, which sends a fountain of sea water many meters into the air.
A mask seller at the Boca do Inferno, who managed to sell me this mask for €15.
There are several souvenir stands at the blowhole where locals sell hand carved, colourful masks, other wood carvings and refreshing coconuts.
A view of the east coast, near Boca do Inferno.
Praia das Sete Ondas
A view of Praia das Sete Ondas, a popular surfing beach.
Continuing south along the east coast road, the next stop was the popular surfing beach known as Praia das Sete Ondas (Seven Waves Beach).
A lonely volcanic boulder is a feature of Praia das Sete Ondas.
This grey-sand beach is named after its sets of perfect waves which draws surfers from around the world.
Praia das Sete Ondas is a beautiful, volcanic sand beach.
The beach is located just south of the KM-20 marker on the EN-2.
Praia das Sete Ondas (Seven Waves Beach) is named after its sets of perfect surfing waves.
Obô Natural Park
A painting of Pico Cão Grande by a local artist.
ObôNatural Park, also known by its original name Parque Natural Ôbo, is a natural, national and very important park which is located in the southern part of the island of São Tomé.
There are plenty of gorgeous features that Obo has to offer, however, the most famous is the Pico Cão Grande, a soaring volcanic plug of epic proportions.
In 2012, a section of rainforest on Principe was added to the park, increasing the area of the park to 300 square km (116 square mi).
Pico Cão Grande
The iconic <>i>Pico Cão Grande (“Great Dog Peak”) is a landmark needle-shaped volcanic plug peak in São Tomé.
One of the highlights of the Obo Natural Park is the iconic Pico Cão Grande.
Located in the south of São Tomé Island, about a one-hour drive south of the capital, this iconic volcanic plug was formed around three and a half million years ago by magma solidifying in the vent of an active volcano.
A view of Pico Cão Grande from the main road – highway EN2.
Its summit is 663 m (2,175 ft) above sea level, and it rises about 370 m (1,210 ft) over the surrounding terrain.
Climbing the peak is technically challenging due to slippery moss growing on the volcanic stone and the presence of snakes.
Only a few teams of rock-climbing specialists have managed to summit the peak with one team sustaining snake bites. Ouch!
Praia Grande
The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.
Located inside ObôNatural Park, the isolated and lonely Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande, with a river leading your view directly to the peak which lies in the distance.
While the view of Pico Cão Grande along the road, and from the view point, is very good, the view from Praia Grande is exceptional.
São Tomé Island – Interior
Roça Monte Café
Roça Monte Café (Coffee Mountain Plantation) is a coffee plantation located in the lofty interior of São Tomé Island.
Home to 684 souls, RoçaMonte Café (Coffee Mountain Plantation) is a plantation located in the lofty interior of São Tomé Island, just 6-km inland from the town of Trinidade.
Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café.
Situated in mountainous terrain, at an elevation of 670-metres (2,198 ft), the cool and inviting Roça Monte Café is perfectly placed for the cultivation of coffee.
Roça Monte Café was established in 1868, making it one of the oldest plantations on São Tomé.
Established in 1868, this coffee plantation is one of the oldest plantations on São Tomé, and, unlike most plantations, is fully functioning and thriving.
One of the cuter inhabitants of Roça Monte Café.
One of the main attractions of Monte Café is its visitor’s centre, coffee museum and the attached cafe.
A view of the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.
Visitors can learn about the history of coffee production in São Tomé, where both Arabica and Robusta beans are grown.
Steam-operated equipment at the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.
The museum has a series of exhibitions that show the coffee production process, from the plantation to the cup.
Following the tour, visitors can relax in the adjacent cafe with a complimentary coffee. Very smooth and delicious!
Coffee heaven – the coffee shop at the Monte Coffee plantation.
While there are plenty of places to purchase coffee in São Tomé, the best place is direct at the source – the Monte Coffee plantation.
Locally produced coffee for sale at the Monte Coffee plantation.
This historic roça has been producing the finest of coffee beans since 1858 and is especially known for its strong arabica beans.
Roça Monte Café – Coffee Mountain plantation!
In the village at Roça Monte Café, Firma Efraim is a coffee shop, guest house and restaurant, offering meals, accommodation and coffee tasting.
Firma Efraim is a coffee shop, guest house and restaurant, offering meals, accommodation and coffee tasting.
Getting there: The entrance to Roça Monte Café is located on the right about 6-km inland from Trindade on the EN-3.
Cascata Sao Nicolau
The beautiful Cascata São Nicolau (Saint Nicholas Waterfall), an easily accessible, 60-metre-high waterfall.
The central highlands have many waterfalls, but Cascata São Nicolau(Saint Nicholas Waterfall) is probably one of the easiest to reach, as it’s right next to the road.
This 60-metre-high waterfall, is hidden by dense vegetation in the middle of a dense forest.
A natural pool at the base of Saint Nicholas Waterfall is an ideal place to cool off.
There is a natural pool at the base of the waterfall, where you can cool off.
Robusta coffee beans growing on the side of the road near Cascata Sao Nicolau.
The falls are located along a winding, bumpy mountain road, just beyond Roça Monte Café.
The road is lined with Robusta coffee plants which were full of fruit at the time of my visit.
São Tomé Island – West Coast
A view of a west coast beach, with many traditional wooden fishing boats, on São Tomé.
As you travel along the north-west coast of São Tomé, just south of Roça Diogo Vaz, which is famous for its chocolate products, a magnificent stone beach comes into view.
A view of the west coast of São Tomé, near to the Santa Catarina tunnel.
Along this beach, and other beaches on the west coast, traditional dug-out fishing boats lie in neat rows.
The west coast of São Tomé is lined with many majestic Ceiba trees.
These wooden, hand-carved fishing boats are made from the long, straight trunk of the Ceiba tree, many of which can be seen, standing like towering sentinels, along the coastline.
Wooden canoes on the west coast of São Tomé.
Santa Caterina Tunnel
A view of the very photogenic Santa Catarina Tunnel.
Driving in Sao Tome is really spectacular and the northwest coast road isn’t any different.
For long sections, the road follows the sparsely populated coast, offering panoramic views of the many stone beaches.
The Santa Catarina Tunnel, the only road tunnel on São Tomé and Príncipe.
Near the end of the road, before the village of Santa Catarina, is the only road tunnel in Sao Tome.
The Santa Catarina Tunnel allows the coastal road to pass through a narrow coastal mountain.
Built by the Portuguese, the 20-metre-long Santa Catarina Tunnel is the only road tunnel on São Tomé and Príncipe.
Principe
A view of the lush, green Principe Island from the Terreiro Velho plantation.
A volcanic island, which was formed 31 million years ago, Principe was uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese on the 17th of January 1471.
Originally named “Saint Anthony”, the island was later renamed Príncipe (“Prince’s Island”) by King John II of Portugal in honour of his son Afonso, Hereditary Prince of Portugal (1475–1491).
Home to just 7,324 inhabitants, Principe Island is a small, sparsely populated, heavily eroded volcano.
The Chocolate Islands
Cacao plants at the Terreiro Velho plantation on Principe.
As you travel around Principe, you will find cacao trees growing wildly throughout the rainforests on the island, especially at the very wild Terreiro Velho plantation which is home to Claudio Corallo chocolate.
Nicknamed, The Chocolate Islands – in 1913, São Tomé and Príncipe were the world’s largest producer of cocoa.
After achieving independence in 1975, their production saw a significant decline due to their lacking infrastructure.
Today, small boutique chocolate manufacturers, such as Claudio Corallo, are producing world-class, single origin chocolate, using cacao beans from plants which have existed for decades in this remote, pristine environment.
Besides cacao and coffee plants, Terreiro Velho plantation is home to many wild pepper plants.
The old plantation grounds at Terreiro Velho have been taken over by the lush tropical jungle.
Throughout, coffee, cacao and pepper plants can be found growing in areas where the sunlight breaks through the canopy.
Video:
Exploring the Terreiro Velho plantation in my rental car with my driver/ guide Rodrigo Lopes.
The southern part of the island is now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which includes the entire emerged area of the island of Príncipe, and its surrounding islets.
Principe is the closest you will get to an untouched paradise, anywhere in the world.
A view of stunning Praia Banana (Banana Beach), one of the highlights of Principe.
This little-known island provides unspoiled beauty, covered in a canopy of green, broken by spires of primordial rock.
The island offers fantastic beaches, rainforests, snorkeling, fishing, birdwatching and a handful of interesting (if expensive) accommodations.
A typical, Portuguese-built, cobbled road on Principe.
While both islands have their natural rewards, Príncipe offers an abundance of pristine nature and should not be missed!
Of the total number of visitors which venture to São Tomé and Príncipe, only 5% of them make the side trip to Príncipe.
I highly recommend making the trip and spending at least a few days on this charming paradise island.
Getting there:
Príncipe is located 173 kilometres (107 mi) north-east of São Tomé and can be reached on twice daily flights from São Tomé Airport.
Santo Antonio
The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary is the principal church in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Located on the north-east coast of Principe, Santo António (Portuguese for Saint Anthony), is the main settlement, and only town, on the island.
Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio.
The town was founded by the Portuguese in 1502, and was a centre of sugarcane cultivation.
A tiny house in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
From 1753 until 1852, it served as the colonial capital of Portuguese São Tomé and Príncipe.
Portuguese colonial-era architecture in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Due to its previous role as the capital, tiny Santo Antonio is a treasure trove of Portuguese colonial-era architecture – and some more modern, funky, street art.
Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Santo Antonio is home to 2,620 inhabitants, which account for about 35% of the island’s total population.
Portuguese post box on the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
The town is known for its colonial architecture and for its two churches, the Church of Our Lady of the Conception and Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Portuguese: Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário).
The interior of the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, Santo Antonio, Principe Island.
Charming and relaxing, Santo Antonio is often called the “smallest town in the world” and is easily covered on foot.
Portuguese cannons and a memorial to Marcelo da Veiga, a local poet, graces the square, which is named after him, in Santo Antonio, Principe.
Praia das Bananas
A view of Praia das Bananas, one of the best beaches on Principe.
Considered to be the best beach, on an island which offers so many stunning beaches, Praia das Bananas (Banana Beach) is named after its curved stretch of golden sand, which is roughly in the shape of the yellow fruit.
This picture-perfect tropical beach is located on the grounds of Roça Belo Monte, a 15-minute walk from the front gate.
A painting, by a local Principe artist, depicts Praia das Bananas.
It is first seen from above, at a clifftop lookout, before descending to sea level, where you’ll find its golden sands, in the shape of a banana, beneath swaying palms.
The beautiful Praia des Bananas.
Hidden beneath the trees are a small bar and lounge chairs.
There is snorkeling at either end, excellent swimming in between, and kayaks available from resort staff.
At the time of my visit, I had this amazingly beautiful beach to myself.
Photography Note:
The only time to photograph Praia das Bananas is in the morning, when the beach is basking in golden sunlight.
In the afternoon, the sun moves behind the beach which places the golden sand and turquoise water in the shadow (as can be seen in my image above).
Praia Bom Bom
A view of Praia Bom Bom, one of a number of remote and secluded beaches on Principe and home to a deluxe resort.
Deluxe Resorts of Principe
Principe is renowned for its deluxe resort accommodation, which comes at a (high) price!
There are three such resorts on the island, all of which are managed by HBD Principe, a company which is owned by South African billionaire Mark Shuttleworth.
Praia Bom Bom is home to ‘Bom Bom‘, which at the time of my visit was closed for a complete renovation. The resort is due to reopen in September, 2024.
In addition to the Principe properties, HDB also offer Omali Lodge on São Tomé.
A view of Praia Bom Bom, and the small islet which is home to a deluxe resort.
Praia Abade
A view of the very quiet Praia Abade which lies to the east of Santo Antonio.
Located 7-km due east of Santo Antonio, the very quiet Praia Abade is home to a rocky stretch of beach which is completely surrounded by lush, emerald-green, rainforest.
The El Farolito snack shop at Praia Abade.
Snacks and drinks are available from El Farolito (translates as ‘The Lantern’), a small snack shop which lies in the shade of swaying palm trees, directly opposite the beach.
Also at El Farolito, a small souvenir stand offers locally produced crafts at totally reasonable prices.
A view of the fishing village at Praia Abade.
Praia Abade is home to a small population who live in a picturesque fishing village.
Hotel Roça Sundy
The drawing room is a highlight of Eclipse house at the Hotel Roça Sundy on Principe.
One of three superb offerings on Principe by the HDB hospitality group, Hotel Roça Sundy is a luxury hotel, full of character and offering loads of old-world charm.
A view of the beautiful ceiling, which is made from local marapião wood, and the reception area at Hotel Roça Sundy.
The hotel occupies the grounds of the former Roça Sundy, which was established in 1822 and has the distinction of being the first cocoa plantation of the whole archipelago.
A view of the front entrance of Eclipse House at Hotel Roça Sundy.
Located 5 km northwest of the island capital of Santo António, this beautiful, deluxe boutique hotel features 18th and 19th-century buildings which were built by the Portuguese.
Giant sketches of endemic birds feature on the balcony walls at Hotel Roça Sundy.
The buildings, which are interspersed with large courtyards, lush gardens and lawns, have been beautifully restored and feature sweeping staircases and ornate ceilings made from local marapião wood.
Roça Sundy is comprised of two beautifully restored buildings: Eclipse House and Cacao House.
Eclipse House, once the hub of the old plantation, now serves as the main building of Hotel Roça Sundy.
Eclipse House, the former hub of the plantation, features the opulent reception area, a drawing room, restaurant and a beautiful terrace where you can enjoy sunset drinks.
Cost: Hotel Roça Sundy offers 15, well-appointed, rooms which cost from €210 per person, per night (based on 2 people sharing).
Scientific Experiment
A plaque, at Hotel Roça Sundy, commemorates Arthur Stanley Eddington’s scientific experiment.
Roça Sundy was once the sight of an historic scientific experiment when, in 1919, the English scientist, Arthur Stanley Eddington, and his team visited Príncipe to test Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity.
They based themselves at Roça Sundy, and, during a total solar eclipse on the 29th of May 1919, they took photos of a star field around the sun.
They compared these photos to ones taken during the night, in Oxford, England, in February of the same year.
The aim of the expedition to Principe was to measure the gravitational deflection of star-light passing near the Sun.
The value of this deflection had been predicted by Albert Einstein in a 1911 paper.
The expedition allowed the scientists to test Einstein’s theory which was proven to be correct, that star-light is indeed deflected by the light of the sun.
A small museum on the grounds of the hotel features displays which detail this historic event.
Hotel Roça Belo Monte
The restored plantation manor house at Roça Belo Monte, Principe Island.
Located in the north-eastern corner of Príncipe Island, Hotel Roça Belo Monte is a former cacao plantation which was established by the Portuguese in 1922.
The plantation was shuttered at the time of independence but has since been revived in the form of a beautiful boutique hotel.
The crenellated entrance gate at Roça Bela Monte Hotel.
Entrance to the former plantation grounds is through a crenellated gateway.
Beyond this grand entrance, the hotel offers twenty rooms in different buildings, a bar and restaurant with terraces, a swimming pool and panoramic views over the surrounding rainforest.
The plantation grounds also include the iconic Praia Banana.
Scuba Diving
Scuba Diving can be arranged through Dive Tribe who are based at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
The ‘Dive Tribe’ scuba diving shop at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
A single dive, including all equipment, costs EUR €55, while 4 dives costs €212.
Scuba diving price list, at Dive Tribe in São Tomé.
At the time of my visit, visibility was poor so no diving trips were being organised.
Accommodation
The most inviting pool in the capital – the infinity pool at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
The cost of accommodation in São Tomé and Príncipe can range from budget guesthouses to luxury resorts.
Budget guesthouses can cost around $20-$50 per night, while mid-range hotels can cost around $70-$150 per night.
Luxury hotels and resorts can cost upwards of $200 per night.
SãoTomé
Pestana Sao Tome Hotel
The best hotel in the capital, the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
For those seeking more deluxe digs in the capital, the Pestana Sao Tome Hotel is a good choice.
A view of the garden at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
Standard rooms at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel start at USD$220 per night.
The boardwalk, at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.
The only credit card which is accepted is Visa!
Pestana Miramar São Tomé
The Pestana Miramar São Tomé offers comfortable rooms overlooking the sea from US$120 per night.
A sister property to the Pestana São Tomé Hotel is the nearby Pestana Miramar São Tomé, which is located a short, 5-minute, walk from the former hotel.
Rooms at this older property cost from just US$120 per night.
Hotel Central
The best mid-range option in town is the Hotel Central which, as the name suggests, is located in the heart of the old town.
Comfortable and clean rooms cost from US$50 per night on booking.com
Albergaria Porcelana
During my stay in São Tomé, I resided at the, less-than-ideal, Albergaria Porcelana which was recommended by some friends.
A standard room at this budget establishment costs US$30 per night.
I was flooded out during my stay and a truckload of chicken feed, which was stored in the basement, meant a foul stench hung in the air during my stay.
Very unpleasant. I would avoid this establishment.
Principe
Principe island offers some amazingly deluxe resorts, which are hidden away in secluded corners of this quiet island, and cost a small fortune.
The top 3 hotels on the island are owned by the HBD hospitality group, which is owned by South African billionaire, Mark Butterworth.
Top of the list is the immaculate Sundy Praia Lodge, where a one-bedroom villa costs from US$1,350 per night.
Another HDB offering is the charming, old-world Hotel Roça Sundy which is detailed in the ‘Sightseeing’section above.
Residencial Brigada
A view of my spacious ‘Queen Studio’ room at Residencial Brigada.
During my visit to Principe, I chose to stay at the much more unpretentious, and totally affordable, Residencial Brigada which is tucked away in a side street of Santo Antonio.
The bathroom in my ‘Queen Studio’ room at Residencial Brigada.
The 3-star, Residencial Brigada features accommodation with a garden, free private parking, a terrace and a restaurant.
Owned by the enthusiastic and energetic Carlos Manuel, this cosy guest house offers spotlessly clean and comfortable rooms starting at EUR €57.50 for a single or EUR €70 for two people.
Rates include a delicious breakfast.
Services include airport transfers, free WiFi and delicious, locally-inspired, meals which are prepared by Carlos’ wife – who is an excellent cook.
All meals at Residencial Brigada, including this delicious breakfast, are prepared by Carlos’ wife.
For a more comfortable stay, I recommend spending more to stay in the queen studio.
Also, through Carlos, I rented a 4WD with a local guide/ driver.
The car rental cost EUR €60 per day – plus extra for the driver.
A guide/ driver is essential on an island where many of the sights lie at the end of unmarked, muddy, rough tracks which weave their way through dense jungle.
The Residencial Brigada is a highly recommended option on Principe.
The cuisine of São Tomé and Príncipe reflects both African and Portuguese influences.
Common ingredients include fish, seafood, tropical fruits, and vegetables.
Dishes often feature flavors like coconut, palm oil, and spices.
Being an island nation, fish is a staple of the São Toméan diet, often served with breadfruit and mashed, cooked bananas.
In spite of the abject poverty, São Toméans can always count on some sustenance from the wide array of tropical fruits which grow throughout the island.
The rich volcanic soil allows almost anything to grow in profusion.
SãoTomé
Xicos’s Café
Xico’s Café in São Tomé offers traditional local, and Portuguese, cuisine served in an authentic, old-world cafe/ art gallery.
Located in downtown São Tomé, the very popular Xicos’s Café offers local, and Portuguese, cuisine at reasonable prices in an old-world café environment.
Named after its owner, Xico, the walls of the café are lined with artworks by local artists, all of which is available for purchase.
A view of Xico’s Café in São Tomé.
The café is especially popular with the expat Portuguese community who come to dine on Portuguese cuisine.
My lunchtime ‘meal of the day’ at Xico’s Café – battered tuna, chips and salad.
The open kitchen is located at the front of the café, allowing you to watch your meal being prepared.
I recommend the ‘meal of the day’ which is served at lunchtime and costs 200 DBs. Standard fare at the cafe includes fresh, local fish with chips and salad.
Open every day except Sunday’s.
Lá Bistro
A view of the popular Lá Bistrô in São Tomé.
Around the corner from Xico’s Café, Lá Bistrô serves similar food with fish, chips and salad being the most popular dish.
For caffeine addicts, this is the one place in São Tomé where you can enjoy a barista-made coffee. The coffees are best enjoyed with one of their fresh cakes, which are baked next door in the bakery.
Highly recommended!
Principe
Armazem Restaurante
The Armazém Restaurante in downtown Santo Antonio.
On an island with very limited dining options, Armazém Restaurante do Roça Porto Real (Warehouse Restaurant Roça Porto Real) in downtown Santo Antonio is housed in a former warehouse, with a seating capacity for over 300 people.
With helpful staff who speak Portuguese and French, the restaurant is busiest at lunchtime, with the most popular dishes being grilled meats and typical Portuguese dishes.
Principe Sightseeing Boat Trips
Boat sightseeing trips of Principe can be booked through the Armazem Restaurante in Santo Antonio.
In addition to the wonderful food, the folks at the Armazem Restaurante can help to organise sightseeing boat trips around Principe Island.
Residencial Brigada
While on Principe, I stayed at the Residencial Brigada where the wife of the owner, Carlos, prepared the most amazing meals, using fresh local produce from the nearby market.
Visa Requirements
Visa policy map of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Many nationalities enjoy visa-free access (highlighted in dark green on the map above) to São Tomé and Príncipe for up to 15 days.
This includes most Europeans, Americans, Canadians, Russians, Japanese and South Koreans.
Other nationalities, such as Australians and New Zealanders, must first apply for a visa.
Those who require a visa can try applying through the online STP e-Visa website which I found does not work.
I tried twice to submit an application and at no stage did I receive an email or any confirmation that the application had been received.
I never received an e-Visa via the website.
I instead applied in person at the São Tomé and Príncipe embassy in Lisbon where a visa application takes 1 week to process.
Getting There
Air
My STP Airways flight from São Tomé International Airport to Portugal which used a chartered plane from EuroAtlantic Airways,
São Tomé is served by São Tomé International Airport (IATA: TMS) with regular flights to Europe and other African countries.
The airport is located 5 kilometres (3 mi) north-west of downtown São Tomé.
The very small, inadequate, and outdated terminal, is easily overwhelmed whenever flights of the larger airlines (STP Airways and TAP Air Portugal) arrive and depart.
Lining up, outside São Tomé International Airport at 4 am, waiting to pass through the security check.
In order to enter the airport terminal, all passengers must queue and wait to first undergo a security check in an adjacent annex.
If you are departing on the weekly STP Airways flight to Lisbon (which departs at 07:10), you will need to ensure you are at the airport at around 4 am to join the long line in the car park.
An old TAP Air Portugal advertisement in downtown São Tomé.
The airline uses an older Boeing 777 which is chartered from EuroAtlantic Airways.
Booking
Flights can be booked on the STP Airways website, with a round trip from Lisbon to São Tomé costing about EUR €800.
Airport Transport
Most hotels will provide a shuttle service.
An airport taxi into downtown São Tomé will cost EUR €10.
Getting Around
Taxis are the most popular form of transportation on the islands, with prices ranging from $1-$10 depending on the distance. Car rentals are also available and can cost around $60-$100 per day.
Inter-Island Flights
Flights between Sao Tome and Principe are operated by STP Airways, who use a chartered plane from SEVENAIR.
Carrier
STP Airways operate inter-island flights between São Tomé and Príncipe islands, daily, except Tuesday.
The empty waiting lounge at the very sleepy Principe airport.
The airline uses a chartered, 19-seater, BAe Jetstream 32, plane from SEVENAIR– a Portuguese charter airline.
On both of my flights, there were no more than half a dozen passengers on board.
Inter-islands flights between São Tomé Island and Príncipe are rarely busy.
Schedule
STP Airways provide flights between São Tomé and Principe islands as per the following schedule:
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Equatorial Guinea Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2024
Introduction
Nestled along the coastline of Central Africa, Equatorial Guinea awaits the adventurous traveller with its lush rainforests, vibrant culture, and captivating history.
Malabo National Park, a manicured garden in the capital city, features eight zones for visitors to discover.
Despite being one of Africa’s smallest countries, this hidden gem boasts an array of experiences waiting to be discovered.
While gaining a tourist visa was once difficult, a change in government policy, and the introduction of an eVisa process has made it easier than ever to visit this once isolated tropical jewel.
I fully explain the new eVisa process in the Visa Requirements section below.
Located on Bioko Island, Malabo is the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
This guide covers my stay in Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
To travel outside the capital, visitors are required to apply for a Travel Authorisation which is issued by the Ministry of Tourism and takes 3-4 business days to process.
Local tour companies will arrange this permit for paying clients.
Finca Sampaka produces very fine chocolate, a short drive from downtown Malabo.
In a bid to diversify its economy away from declining oil revenues, Equatorial Guinea has now opened its doors to tourism.
Now is the opportune time to visit, before the hordes arrive!
Location
Malabo, Equatorial Guinea
Equatorial Guinea is situated on the west coast of Central Africa, bordered by Cameroon to the north and Gabon to the east and south.
Its unique location places it just north of the equator, giving the country its name.
A view of the port in Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
The country consists of a mainland region known as Rio Muni, along with several small offshore islands.
The largest of these islands is Bioko, also known as Fernando Po, located about 40 kilometres (25 miles) off the coast of Cameroon. Bioko is home to the capital city, Malabo.
One unique geographical feature is that the Equator passes through the country, specifically through the island of Corisco, making Equatorial Guinea one of the few countries in the world to be bisected by this imaginary line.
Overall, Equatorial Guinea’s location provides it with a diverse range of ecosystems, from coastal mangroves to dense rainforests, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in exploring varied landscapes and biodiversity.
People
Artwork at the Equatorial Guinea Cultural Centre in Malabo.
The population of this small but culturally rich nation is a mix of different ethnic groups, each contributing to the country’s unique identity.
The country is home to several ethnic groups, with the Fang being the largest. The Fang people primarily inhabit the mainland region of Rio Muni.
Other major ethnic groups include the Bubi on Bioko Island, the Ndowe, the Bujeba, and the Annobonese on the island of Annobón.
Each group has its own traditions, languages, and cultural practices, enriching the country’s cultural landscape.
The official languages of Equatorial Guinea are Spanish, French, and Portuguese due to its colonial history.
However, there are also several indigenous languages spoken across the country. Fang, Bubi, and Igbo are among the most widely spoken native languages.
A view of the interior of Saint Elizabeth’s Cathedral, the main cathedral in Malabo.
Religion in Equatorial Guinea reflects its historical influences.
The majority of the population identifies as Christian, with Roman Catholicism being the predominant denomination.
However, there are also followers of indigenous beliefs and Islam, particularly among some of the ethnic groups.
The Equatoguinean Cultural Centre in Malabo promotes local arts and culture.
Despite its small size, Equatorial Guinea’s population is a testament to the richness and diversity of African cultures.
The people, with their strong sense of identity and community, contribute to the country’s colorful mosaic of traditions and customs.
Worth checking out is the Equatoguinean Cultural Centre, which is housed in a beautiful, yellow, colonial building on the main street in Malabo.
The centre promotes local arts and culture and is always full of students who take advantage of the free WiFi, which is available in the central atrium.
Flag
The flag of Equatorial Guinea.
The flag of Equatorial Guinea was adopted on October 12, 1968, upon gaining independence from Spain.
It consists of three horizontal bands of green, white, and red, with a bluetriangle on the hoist side of the flag.
The green band symbolises the country’s natural resources, particularly its lush forests and vegetation. Green is also often associated with agriculture and the country’s hope for a prosperous future.
The white band represents peace and unity. It signifies the country’s aspirations for harmony among its diverse population and its commitment to peaceful coexistence.
Thered band symbolises the sacrifices made for independence and the bloodshed of the country’s martyrs. Red is a common color in many African flags, often representing the struggles for freedom.
The blue triangle on the hoist side of the flag represents the sea, as Equatorial Guinea is a coastal nation. Blue is also a color associated with the ocean and maritime activities.
A tiny, barely visible, Equatorial Guinea flag, flying upon the tallest flagpole in Malabo at Plaza of Equatorial Guinea.
In the centre of the flag is the national coat of arms of Equatorial Guinea.
The coat of arms features a silk cotton tree (Ceiba pentandra), which is a symbol of national prosperity.
Above the tree, there are six yellow six-pointed stars, representing the country’s mainland and five islands.
Below the tree, there is a banner bearing the national motto “Unidad, Paz, Justicia” (Unity, Peace, Justice).
Currency
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, which is the official currency of six central African nations.
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, which has the international currency code of XAF.
This currency is used by six countries in the Central African region, including Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Chad, Central African Republic, Congo-Brazzaville, and Gabon.
The CFA franc is pegged to the Euro, with a fixed exchange rate, providing stability in international transactions.
Currently, €1 = 655.96 CFA francs.
This peg has meant that travel costs in all countries in the CFA zone are much higher than costs on the non-CFA countries.
Almost a full set of (uncirculated) CFA franc banknotes – with the 2,000 missing!
Within Equatorial Guinea, the currency is issued and regulated by the Bank of Central African States (BEAC), which is the central bank for the Central African Economic and Monetary Community (CEMAC).
The bank is headquartered in Yaoundé, Cameroon, with the headquarters building featured on the front of all banknotes.
The CFA franc is denoted by the symbol “FCFA” or “XAF” and is available in both coins and banknotes.
Coins are available in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 500 francs, while banknotes are issued in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs.
Banking Services
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF.
Credit Cards
Like almost all other African countries, cash is king in Equatorial Guinea with credit cards rarely accepted.
It is advisable to have some local currency on hand for all transactions, as well as U.S. dollars or Euros for larger purchases or in case of emergencies.
ATMs
ATMs are available in major cities like Malabo and Bata, where you can withdraw cash using international debit or credit cards.
Like many other African countries, Visa card is widely accepted in ATMs while Mastercard is accepted by just a few banks – such as Eco bank and Société Générale.
Costs
Menu prices, displayed at a café in the Malabo National Park.
Travel costs in Equatorial Guinea are typical of central African countries and of the CFA zone – i.e. higher than in other African countries.
This is not a budget-friendly destination for budget travellers.
The beer of choice in this former Spanish colony is San Miguel, which is brewed in Malaga, Spain.
Daytrip tour of Bioko Island with Rumbo Malabo: €285
WiFi
Despite being one of the wealthier countries in Africa, Equatorial Guinea has one of the slowest WiFi speeds in Africa.
The most frustrating thing you can do in Equatorial Guinea is to waste your time trying to use the incredibly slow internet.
WiFi speed test in Malabo which shows a typical download speed in Equatorial Guinea.
While the rest of the world measures WiFi speed in Mbps (megabits per second), in Equatorial Guinea, speed is still measured in kbps (kilobits per second).
Nowhere in the country did I experience anything faster than 512 kbps – i.e. the speed offered by an old-fashioned dial-up modem.
I performed internet speed tests in a number of locations, including at my hotel, and normally received download speeds of less than half a megabit per second (as indicated in the above screenshot).
An article on the Africa Report website states that downloading a 5GB movie took 734 minutes in the Republic of Congo, 788 minutes in Sao Tome, 850 minutes in Ethiopia, 965 minutes in Niger and 1,342 minutes in Equatorial Guinea.
There are various reasons for the slow internet speeds throughout Africa, including a lack of investment in infrastructure and also a desire by autocratic regimes (i.e. dictators) to hobble something which they consider to be a major threat to their hold on power.
Sightseeing
The Plaza of Equatorial Guinea is located on the Paseo Maritimo in Malabo.
Travel Authorisation
A special consideration for anyone wishing to venture beyond the capital of Malabo is the Travel Authorisation.
At police checkpoints around Bioko Island, you, or your tour company, will need to show this authorisation which is issued by the Department of Tourism and has a processing time of 3-4 days.
If you are travelling with a tour company, such as Rumbo Malabo, they can organise the authorisation in advance.
Malabo
The capital city of Equatorial Guinea, Malabo (pop: 297,000), is located on the northern coast of Bioko Island.
It’s a mix of Spanish colonial architecture and modern buildings.
While the government has built showpiece boulevards (especially connecting the new airport to downtown Malabo) which are lined with modern, glitzy office towers and ministry buildings, just behind this façade lies sprawling urban slums where many locals live in poverty.
St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral
St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral located in the city of Malabo.
This beautiful Roman Catholic cathedral in Malabo is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks and a first stop on most sightseeing tours of the city.
Named after St. Elizabeth of Hungary, the cathedral is built in a neo-Gothic style that emphasises its façade, flanked by two 40-metre-high (130 ft) towers, and a nave with two aisles.
A view of the interior of St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
Its construction began in 1897 with donations from parishioners, commercial companies and the Spanish government, for it was one of its colonies.
Designed by the architect, Luis Segarra Llairadó, the cathedral was inaugurated in 1916. The cathedral was seriously damaged by fire on January 16, 2020 while restoration work was underway. It has since been fully restored.
The copper doors at St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
For those interesting in photographing the beautiful interior, the cathedral is normally closed during the day, but opens for mass which is conducted each day at 12 noon.
A view of the beautiful interior of St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
This is the only time for photographing the interior and its best to arrive around 11:45 am, before mass commences.
Plaza of Independence
A view of the cathedral from Plaza of Independence, Malabo.
Opposite the cathedral, the Plaza of Independence (Plaza de la Independencia) contains traces of the long period of Spanish colonialism.
At the centre of the plaza stands a fountain, made of Carrara marble, with a Ceiba tree (a national symbol) at its centre.
A view of one of the ten tiled benches in the Plaza of Independence in Malabo.
Surrounding the fountain is a series of ten tiled benches and tiled pergolas. These have been recently renovated using not Spanish – but Italian – handmade tiles.
Malabo National Park
A view of Malabo National Park, which is a large manicured garden built by the Chinese.
Built by the China Road and Bridge Corporation, Malabo National Park is not a national park but a manicured garden, which features 8 different zones.
This new park is next door to the airport, and covers an area of 870,000 sq metres. The park offers restaurants, a sports area, activities for children, a lake with jet-skis and boats and an art gallery.
A statue of Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, the president of Equatorial Guinea, at Malabo National Park.
As can be expected from a Chinese project, homage, in the form of a statue, is paid to the autocratic leader of Equatorial Guinea – Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo. The statue is installed just inside the main entrance gate.
The president is a former military officer who has served as the second president of Equatorial Guinea since 3 August 1979.
As of 2024, he is the second-longest consecutively serving current non-royal national leader in the world.
A very empty Malabo National Park provides an ideal retreat from bustling Malabo.
On the day of my visit, I was the only visitor in the park.
If you would rather not walk in the steamy tropical heat, you have the option to rent a bike and cycle around the park. There’s even a lake where you can rent a rowboat.
The sculpture plaza at Malabo National Park.
Of the eight zones – the Ethnic Customs Zone features a plaza lined with totem sculptures which depict local customs and beliefs.
Malabo National Park offers eight zones to explore plus a couple of cafes.
While the park is beautiful and pleasant to walk around, it’s somewhat soulless and surreal and reminded me of empty ‘showpiece’ parks in Turkmenistan!
Paseo Maritimo
A view along the Paseo Maritimo in Malabo.
Speaking of empty and soulless, the Paseo Maritimo is a wide paved Malecón which follows along the shore of the bay in Malabo.
Whenever I visited, I was the only one there!
There are a couple of empty cafés which serve meals and drinks.
Plaza of Equatorial Guinea
“I heart Guinea Equatorial” at the Plaza of Equatorial Guinea.
Installed at the centre of the Paseo Maritimo, the Plaza of Equatorial Guinea features the tallest flagpole in Malabo (with the smallest of flags fluttering somewhere at the top).
The (again empty) plaza features an “I heart Malabo” and “I heart Guinea Equatorial” signs.
Finca Sampaka
The driveway to Finca Sampaka is lined with towering palm trees.
Located on the southern outskirts of Malabo, Finca Sampaka is a cacao and coffee producing estate which dates from 1906.
Finca Sampaka was established on the outskirts of Malabo in 1906.
The name Sampaka is derived from the name of the original settler to the area, Samuel Parker, who emigrated from Liberia. The district in which the farm is located is called the Sampaka district.
Finca Sampaka export cacao and coffee beans around the world.
The farm, which has an area of about 1,000 hectares, is known for producing high quality cocoa and coffee.
The shop at Finca Sampaka, where you can purchase chocolate, coffee and even pepper, all of which is produced on the estate.
In the 1990s, the farm was incorporated into the CAMASA company who today produce high quality chocolate bars, coffee and even a local version of Nutella.
Cacao beans, in the processing laboratory at Finca Sampaka.
In the interest of research for this travel guide, I purchased a selection of chocolate products to sample. They were truly delicious!
Nothing beats the amazing aroma of freshly blended chocolate – seen here at Finca Sampaka.
Guided tours of the estate are available and should be booked through the Contact page of the company website.
The CAMASA company produce high quality chocolate bars, coffee and even a local version of Nutella.
One of their most versatile products is their Crema de Cacao which is a local version of Nutella and, as per the label, can be enjoyed on bread, with deserts and even with fruits. Nice!
Coffee beans for sale at Finca Sampaka.
While chocolate is the mainstay of the farm, they also have a coffee tree plantation which produces very flavourful beans, which can be purchased at the farm shop.
Accommodation
Malabo
Ibis Malabo
Suffering issues with dampness, the Ibis Malabo Hotel has been under renovation for more than one year, with the external cladding slowly being replaced.
Thanks to the many visiting oil and gas executives, Malabo is blessed with a good selection of hotels – most of which cater to visiting business travellers with hefty travel budgets!
My spacious and comfortable room at the Ibis Malabo Hotel.
During my time in Malabo, I stayed at the very nice Ibis Malabo Hotel.
Room rates start at €110 for a standard room without breakfast. Since there are no restaurants or cafes nearby, it’s best to add breakfast which is an additional €10.
The hotel, which suffers from issues relating to dampness, has been under renovation for more than a year, with its exterior cladding being replaced.
My spacious and comfortable room at the Ibis Malabo Hotel.
Like many hotels in Malabo, the Ibis is located in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by a few government ministry buildings and lots of green parkland.
To travel anywhere, you will need transport or you’ll need to flag a shared taxi from the road. A trip into the downtown area costs CFA 1,000,
All rooms feature the standard Ibis pod-bathroom.
Due to its isolated location, most guests tend to eat dinner in the hotel restaurant.
During my stay the hotel was empty so the restaurant most nights was empty.
The pool at the Ibis Malabo, which was never used.
The hotel features a pool and a large green garden but this too was always empty.
Eating Out
Malabo
Cafe Malabo
Located in the heart of Malabo, the comfortable and inviting Café Malabo serves good coffee and excellent food.
The standout restaurant in the downtown area is the comfortable and inviting Café Malabowhich is the preferred venue for locals, ex-pats and any tourists which have ventured to this remote corner of the world.
Café Malabo serves as a cafe, restaurant, winery and a concert space for local performers.
Cafe Malabo is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and serves a variety of international (with an emphasis on Spanish) and local dishes.
Another excellent Café con leche at Café Malabo.
Apart from its excellent cafe offerings, Café Malabo serves as a restaurant, winery and a concert space for local performers.
Visa Requirements
My immigration entry and exit stamps for Equatorial Guinea.
In the past, obtaining a visa to visit Equatorial Guinea was notoriously difficult.
However, this has now changed thanks to a change in policy by the Government of Equatorial Guinea who has implemented a policy of economic diversification as a result of falling oil revenues, the main source of income for the Equatorial Guinean economy.
Within the framework of this diversification of the economy, the tourism sector plays an important role.
To help boost tourist arrivals, a new eVisa website has been created which now allows visitors to apply online for a visa, which is usually granted, without fuss, in five business days.
Never has there been an easier time to visit Equatorial Guinea!
The Visa Policy map of Equatorial Guinea. Source: Wikipedia.
Applications for an eVisa for Equatorial Guinea, must be made at the eVisa website which was developed by VFS global, a Swiss company. As can be expected from anything created by the Swiss, the website functions very efficiently.
the application process is very straight-forward and will require you to upload the following:
A scan of the photo page of your passport.
A return flight ticket (all eVisa holders must arrive at Malabo International Airport). Note: your visa will be made valid for the dates of your flights only.
A confirmed hotel reservation covering all the nights of your stay in the country.
Finally, you must pay, online, the processing fee of US$75 which is non-refundable.
A copy of my eVisa payment receipt.
Once submitted, you will receive a receipt via email (as shown above).
After a processing time of 5-days you should receive your eVisa via email. This should be printed and presented upon arrival at Malabo International Airport.
When you arrive at Malabo airport, you will be simply stamped into and out of the country.
You will not receive a full-page visa in your passport.
Getting There
Departure board at Malabo International Airport.
Air
Malabo Airport
All international flights arrive at Malabo International Airport, or Saint Isabel Airport, (IATA: SSG) which is located on the island of Bioko. The airport is located 9 kilometres (5.6 mi) to the east of Malabo.
All eVisa holders must arrive at Malabo International Airport.
If you are arriving from a neighbouring African country, you can’t help but be impressed by the new modern, shiny terminal building with its 6 air-bridges which was built by a Chinese company, ABC Construcciones WEI.
Although there is plenty of retail space allocated inside the terminal, there are currently no shops and no cafes at the airport. You should bring any food and drinks you might need prior to your flight.
