Tag - Unrecognised States

Dependent Territories Of The World

Cover Photo: Giant icebergs block the entrance to the Ilulissat Icefjord.

Dependent Territories of the World

 

Introduction

In a world often described through the lens of UN sovereign nations, it’s easy to overlook the complex web of dependent territories that exist alongside them.

From overseas departments and autonomous regions to special administrative zones, crown dependencies, unincorporated areas and more, these political entities challenge the traditional definitions of nationhood and sovereignty.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony on the Falkland Islands.

Dependent Territories of the World seeks to highlight these often-overlooked travel destinations, some of which comprise the most fascinating destinations a traveller can hope to visit.

One such standout destination, Greenland, is featured as the cover photo for this guide.

This Danish territory, which is often described as the Antarctica of the North, is an Arctic destination of breath-taking, stark, vast, and profoundly humbling beauty.

A view of the Greenland Ice Sheet from my Air Greenland flight between Narsarsuaq and Nuuk.

A view of the Greenland Ice Sheet from my Air Greenland flight between Narsarsuaq and Nuuk.

A land where nature reigns supreme in its most raw and majestic form and where a small population clings to the edges of the largest island on Earth, which is almost completely covered by a 1.5-km thick ice sheet.

Blue Hole of Voh, New Caledonia.

Blue Hole of Voh, New Caledonia.

Whether remnants of colonial empires, or culturally distinct regions seeking autonomy, these territories tell a deeper story about power, identity, and globalisation in the 21st century.

Thoughout this guide, you will find photography from all of the territories which I have had the pleasure to visit, along with links to content on taste2travel which provides comprehensive information for each territory.

In the interest of completeness, I have also ventured beyond Dependent Territories to also include Unrecognised States, Antarctica and one interesting geographical anomaly.

252 Political Entities

A chart showing 252 Political Entities.

A chart showing 252 Political Entities.

There are a total of 252 political entities in the world.

The chart above shows the status of those entities, including 193 UN States, 48 Populated Territories and ‘Other‘ which includes:

  • 2 UN Observer States (Vatican City and Palestinian States)
  • 2 UN Non-Member Entities (Kosovo and Taiwan)
  • 6 Unrecognised States (Abkhazia, Northern Cyprus, Somaliland, South Ossetia, Transnistria, Western Sahara)
  • Antarctica  

UN Countries

The United Nations General Assembly Hall in New York City.

The United Nations General Assembly Hall in New York City.

“UN 193”

There are 193 UN countries in the world, of which a few states possess numerous dependent territories scattered around the globe.

Since dependent territories are mostly remnants of colonial empires, it is no surprise that the largest number of territories belong to countries which once had large empires – namely the United Kingdom, France and the Netherlands.

Additionally, the United States, Denmark, Australia and New Zealand also claim a number of dependent territories.

“UN 195”

While the United Nations General Assembly consists of 193 Member States, there are also two observer statesThe Holy See (Vatican City) and Palestine.

These entities can participate in debates but do not have voting rights.

“UN 197”

The UN count of “197” refers to the total count of countries when including all UN member states, the two UN observer states (Vatican City and Palestine), and the partially recognised states of Kosovo and Taiwan.

UN Resolution 1514

The main UN resolution addressing the independence of territories is General Assembly resolution 1514 (XV), also known as the Declaration on the Granting of Independence to Colonial Countries and Peoples.

This resolution, adopted in 1960, affirmed the right to self-determination for all colonial territories and called for the end of colonial rule.

However, since dependent territories often receive generous annual subsidies, plus many other benefits, from the parent country, whenever the question of independence has been raised (normally through referendums), territorial citizens have normally voted to remain with the parent country, lest they lose the benefits upon which they rely.


Video: How Many Countries Are There?

 


 

Dependent Territories

The, rugged, majestic and monumental scenery of the Faroe Islands offer excellent hiking possibilities.

The, rugged, majestic and monumental scenery of the Faroe Islands offer excellent hiking possibilities.

A dependent territory is a territory that is not fully independent or sovereign and also not fully part of an independent country.

However, the sovereign state has some degree of influence on the dependent territory, although some of the dependent territories are fully responsible for their internal affairs.

Several terms can be used to refer to the dependencies and/or territories.

These terms include overseas territories, crown dependencies, overseas possessions, unincorporated territories, and areas of special sovereignty.

Crown dependencies are self-governing crown possessions, which the British government solely protects and represent at international levels.

Unincorporated” is a term used in the US to refer to territories where the US Constitution only partially applies.

France refers to its external semi-autonomous regions as “overseas collectivities,” while the Netherlands uses the phrase “constituent countries” to refer to its territories.

The dramatic volcanic landscapes on Reunion are best appreciated on a helicopter sightseeing tour.

The dramatic volcanic landscapes on Reunion are best appreciated on a helicopter sightseeing tour.

There are about 58 dependent territories, most of which are islands in the world’s oceans.

Although the British Empire no longer exists, the United Kingdom has the most overseas territories with 14, including Gibraltar and the Falkland Islands.

France and the US also have sizeable numbers of territories, with some of the US territories including Puerto Rico and Guam.

Sparsely populated, the vast Falkland Islands can only be explored using a rental car.

Sparsely populated, the vast Falkland Islands can only be explored using a rental car.

Of the dependent territories, 48 are populated while 15 are unpopulated.

I have only included populated territories in the scope of this guide, although I have provided a list of unpopulated territories below.

Populated Territories

Dependent TerritoryCapitalPopulationRegionClaimed ByTaste2travel Content
American SamoaPago Pago49,710Pacific OceanUSALink
AnguillaThe Valley16,010CaribbeanUKLink
ArubaOranjestad107,566CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
BermudaHamilton64,055Atlantic OceanUKLink
BonaireKralendijk25,133CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
British Virgin IslandsRoad Town39,471CaribbeanUKLink
Cayman IslandsGeorge Town84,738CaribbeanUKLink
Christmas IslandFlying Fish Cove1,692Indian OceanAustraliaLink
Cocos (Keeling) IslandsWest Island593Indian OceanAustraliaLink
Cook IslandsAvarua15,040Pacific OceanNew ZealandN/A
CuraçaoWillemstad 155,826CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
Falkland IslandsStanley3,662South AmericaUKLink
Faroe IslandsTorshavn55,042EuropeDenmarkLink
French GuianaCayenne314,197South AmericaFranceLink
French PolynesiaPapeete279,500Pacific OceanFranceLink
GibraltarGibraltar38,000EuropeUKN/A
GreenlandNuuk56,542North AmericaDenmarkLink
GuadeloupeBasse-Terre375,700CaribbeanFranceLink
GuamAgana153,836Pacific OceanUSALink
GuernseySt. Peter Port64,781EuropeUKN/A
Hong KongN/A7,527,500ChinaControlled by ChinaN/A
Isle of ManDouglas84,530EuropeUKLink
JerseySt. Helier103,267EuropeUKLink
MacauMacao685,900ChinaControlled by ChinaLink
MartiniqueFort-de-France349,925CaribbeanFranceLink
MayotteMamoudzou324,000Indian OceanFranceLink
MontserratPlymouth4,386CaribbeanUKLink
New CaledoniaNoumea264,596Pacific OceanFranceLink
NiueAlofi1,681Pacific OceanNew ZealandLink
Norfolk IslandKingston2,188Pacific OceanAustraliaLink
Northern Mariana IslandsSaipan47,329Pacific OceanUSAN/A
Pitcairn IslandsAdamstown35Pacific OceanUKLink
Puerto RicoSan Juan3,203,295CaribbeanUSALink
ReunionSaint-Denis882,856Indian OceanFranceLink
SabaThe Bottom2,158CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
Saint BarthélemyGustavia 11,414CaribbeanFranceLink
Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da CunhaSt. Helena - Jamestown5,197Atlantic OceanUKLink
Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da CunhaAscension - Georgetown 880Atlantic OceanUKN/A
Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da CunhaTristan da Cunha - Edinburgh of the Seven Seas245Atlantic OceanUKN/A
Saint MartinMarigot31,496CaribbeanFranceLink
Saint Pierre & MiquelonSt. Pierre5,819Atlantic OceanFranceLink
Sint EustatiusOranjestad3,270CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
Sint MaartenPhilipsburg 41,349CaribbeanNetherlandsLink
SvalbardLongyearbyen2,667Atlantic OceanNorwayLink
TokelauN/A1,647Pacific OceanNew ZealandN/A
Turks & Caicos IslandsCockburn Town50,894CaribbeanUKLink
U.S. Virgin IslandsCharlotte Amalie87,146CaribbeanUSALink
Wallis & FutunaMata Uta11,620Pacific OceanFranceLink

There are a total of 48 populated territories, which include some of the most interesting travel destinations on the planet.

While many people focus on visiting only UN countries, bypassing the dependent territories, it is worth remembering that UN Countries (using the “UN 197” count) comprise just 78% of all travel destinations.

If you wish to explore 100% of all travel destinations, you need to also visit the dependent territories which are listed, in detail, below.

Populated Territories by Country

Included below are links to taste2travel content which highlight the many populated territories found around the world.

United Kingdom

British Overseas Territories

Located at the bottom of the world, the very remote Falkland Islands is one of 14 British Overseas Territories.

Located at the bottom of the world, the very remote Falkland Islands is one of 14 British Overseas Territories.

The United Kingdom has 14 British Overseas Territories (BOT’s), 13 of which are populated and one of which, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, is unpopulated.

All of these territories fall under the sovereignty of the UK, but are not part of the United Kingdom itself.

These territories are largely self-governing, with the UK responsible for their defense, foreign affairs, and, in some cases, internal security.

One of the highlights of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena is the strenuous 699-step Jacob's ladder.

One of the highlights of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena is the strenuous 699-step Jacob’s ladder.

They vary significantly in location, size, population, and governance.

Crown Dependencies

The island of Jersey is one of three Crown Dependencies claimed by the United Kingdom.

The island of Jersey is one of three Crown Dependencies claimed by the United Kingdom.

The UK also claims three Crown Dependencies, the Isle of Man, the Bailiwick of Jersey and the Bailiwick of Guernsey (which also includes the islands of Alderney, Herm and Sark).


What is a Bailiwick?

A bailiwick is defined as being the area of jurisdiction of a bailiff, and once also applied to territories in which a privately appointed bailiff exercised the sheriff’s functions under a royal or imperial writ.


These are not part of the UK or the Overseas Territories.

They are self-governing possessions of the Crown with their own legal and political systems.

A view of Douglas, capital of the Isle of Man, which is one of three Crown Dependencies of the United Kingdom.

A view of Douglas, capital of the Isle of Man, which is one of three Crown Dependencies of the United Kingdom.

The UK is responsible for their defense and international representation.

Anguilla

Anguilla Cover Photo

Tiny Anguilla is a British Overseas Territory located in the eastern Caribbean, just north of Saint Martin.

Known for its pristine white-sand beaches, turquoise waters, and coral reefs, Anguilla is a popular destination for luxury tourism.

The territory consists of the main island of Anguilla and several smaller islets.

Flag of Anguilla.

Flag of Anguilla.

Anguilla has a population of around 15,000 people, and its capital is The Valley.

Anguilla maintains a stable political system and uses the Eastern Caribbean dollar (XCD) as its official currency.

While it has limited natural resources, its economy relies heavily on tourism, offshore banking, and fishing.

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

A popular way to explore Anguilla is on a daytrip from neighbouring St. Martin.

Click to view taste2travel content for Anguilla.  

Bermuda

Bermuda Cover Photo

Beautiful Bermuda is one of my favourite territories, one in which I spent 10 days exploring the island on a rented scooter since rental cars are banned!

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at 'Tabs' in Hamilton

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at ‘Tabs’ in Hamilton

Bermuda is a British Overseas Territory located in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 1,000 kilometres (620 miles) east of the U.S. state of North Carolina.

Flag of Bermuda.

Flag of Bermuda.

This appealing paradise is an archipelago made up of seven main islands and over 150 smaller ones, connected by bridges and causeways.

The capital city is the charming port town of Hamilton which offers a selection of fine shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach, one of many fine beaches on Bermuda.

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach, one of many fine beaches on Bermuda.

Bermuda is known for its pink-sand beaches, subtropical climate, and historic colonial architecture.

Today, a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

Today, a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

Its economy is driven by international finance, particularly insurance and reinsurance, as well as high-end tourism.

Although geographically isolated, Bermuda maintains strong cultural and political ties to the United Kingdom.

 Click to view taste2travel content for Bermuda.  

British Virgin Islands

BVI Cover Photo

A playground for the rich and famous, the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a British Overseas Territory located in the northeastern Caribbean, east of Puerto Rico.

The territory consists of over 50 islands and cays, with the largest and most populated being Tortola, where the capital, Road Town, is located.

Other notable islands include Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Jost Van Dyke.

The pristine waters of 'The Baths' on Virgin Gorda Island offer some of the best snorkelling in the BVI.

The pristine waters of ‘The Baths’ on Virgin Gorda Island offer some of the best snorkelling in the BVI.

The BVI is known for its stunning beaches, sailing waters, and coral reefs, making it a popular destination for yachting and tourism.

Its economy is primarily based on financial services and tourism.

The BVI operates under a parliamentary democracy and maintains close political ties to the United Kingdom.

Flag of British Virgin Islands.

Flag of British Virgin Islands.

Click to view taste2travel content for the British Virgin Islands.  

Cayman Islands

Cayman Islands Cover Photo

The very charming Cayman Islands is a British Overseas Territory located in the western Caribbean Sea, south of Cuba and northwest of Jamaica.

It consists of three islands: Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

A typical Cayman cottage in George Town.

A typical Cayman cottage in George Town.

The capital of the Cayman Islands is George Town, which is situated on Grand Cayman.

If you visit the Caymans, I highly recommend flying out to the smaller islands of Cayman Brac and Little Cayman where you can experience a more traditional Caribbean way of life.

Flag of the Cayman Islands.

Flag of the Cayman Islands.

The territory is renowned for its world-class diving sites, beautiful beaches, and vibrant marine life.

I experienced scuba diving on Grand Cayman and Cayman Brac, both of which offered sublime diving experiences.

On approach to Cayman Brac with Cayman Airways.

On approach to Cayman Brac with Cayman Airways.

Located offshore from Cayman Brac, the Cayman Trench is the deepest part of the Caribbean Sea, reaching a depth of nearly 7,686 metres (25,217 feet).

The Cayman Islands is a major global financial centre, known for its strong banking, investment, and insurance sectors.

West Bay Beach, Grand Cayman.

West Bay Beach, Grand Cayman.

With no direct taxation, the Cayman Islands attracts international businesses and investors.

The local government operates under a parliamentary system, while the United Kingdom is responsible for defense and foreign affairs.

Click to view taste2travel content for the Cayman Islands. 

Falkland Islands

Falkland Islands Cover Photo

The Falkland Islands is a British Overseas Territory located in the South Atlantic Ocean, about 500 kilometres (310 miles) east of the southern coast of South America.

The territory consists of two main islands—East Falkland and West Falkland—and over 700 smaller islands.

The capital of Stanley (pop: 2,964), which is located on East Falkland, is home to almost the entire population.

Flag of the Falkland Islands.

Flag of the Falkland Islands.

The islands have a small population, primarily of British descent, and English is the official language.

The economy is based on fishing, tourism, and sheep farming, with offshore oil exploration also playing a growing role.

The Union Jack, flying in the Falklands countryside.

The Union Jack, flying in the Falklands countryside.

I spent 7 days driving a rental 4WD around the very empty gravel roads of East Falkland, however, I could easily have spent 2 weeks exploring this fascinating territory which is about the size of Wales.

The Falklands are self-governing in most matters, but the United Kingdom retains responsibility for defense and foreign affairs.

Outside of tiny Stanley, the Falkland Islands are almost uninhabited, apart from the million+ sheep population.

Outside of tiny Stanley, the Falkland Islands are almost uninhabited, apart from the million+ sheep population.

The sovereignty of the islands is disputed by Argentina, which refers to them as the Islas Malvinas, but the local population strongly supports remaining a British territory.

Click to view taste2travel content for the Falkland Islands. 

Gibraltar

Although I visited Gibraltar many years ago, I have not created any content on taste2travel.

Guernsey

Although I visited Guernsey many years ago, I have not created any content on taste2travel.

Isle of Man

Isle of Man Cover Photo

The Isle of Man is a self-governing British Crown Dependency located in the Irish Sea, between Great Britain and Ireland.

It is not part of the United Kingdom but is under the sovereignty of the British Crown.

The Tynwald Hill is the sight of the original parliament on the Isle of Man.

The Tynwald Hill is the sight of the original parliament on the Isle of Man.

The island has its own parliament, known as the Tynwald, which is one of the oldest continuous legislative bodies in the world.

The Isle of Man is known for its rugged coastline, rural landscapes, and rich Celtic and Norse heritage.

Towering over the village of Laxey, the Great Laxey wheel is the largest working waterwheel in the world.

Towering over the village of Laxey, the Great Laxey wheel is the largest working waterwheel in the world.

Its economy is diversified, with key sectors including financial services, e-gaming, tourism, and agriculture.

The island also issues its own currency, the Manx pound, which is pegged to the British pound.

Flag of the Isle of Man.

Flag of the Isle of Man.

While the UK handles defense and international relations, the Isle of Man manages its own domestic affairs and has a distinct legal and tax system.

Click to view taste2travel content for the Isle of Man. 

Jersey

Home to 103,650 inhabitants, Jersey is the largest of the Channel Islands and a British Crown Dependency, located in the English Channel just off the coast of Normandy, France.

The lighthouse at La Corbière is one of the most photographed landmarks in Jersey due to its prominent position.

The lighthouse at La Corbière is one of the most photographed landmarks in Jersey due to its prominent position.

Though it is not part of the United Kingdom, Jersey has a unique political status with its own government, legal system, and financial independence, while relying on the British Crown for defense and international representation.

Mont Orgueil; French for 'Mount Pride', is a castle in Jersey that overlooks the harbour town of Gorey.

Mont Orgueil; French for ‘Mount Pride’, is a castle in Jersey that overlooks the harbour town of Gorey.

Known for its mild climate, stunning coastline, and blend of British and French influences, the island combines historic castles, picturesque fishing harbours, and sandy beaches with a reputation as a global financial centre.

One of three Channel Island cattle breeds, the Jersey cow is a British breed of small dairy cow originating from Jersey.

One of three Channel Island cattle breeds, the Jersey cow is a British breed of small dairy cow originating from Jersey.


Jersey Cows Jersey is known for its breed of dairy cow – the Jersey cow, which are typically light to medium brown in colour, though this can range from being almost grey to dull black.

They are small in size, weighing about 500 kg in maturity.

The Jersey cow has a broader face with prominent eyes and long eyelashes which endears this breed to many people.

A champion dairy cow, Jerseys produce milk that is high in butterfat and has a yellowish tinge.


St Helier is the capital of Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands in the English Channel.

St Helier is the capital of Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands in the English Channel.

Jersey’s distinct culture, cuisine, and landscapes make it a fascinating destination that feels both familiar and unique.

Click to view taste2travel content for Jersey. 

Montserrat

Montserrat Cover Photo

Often referred to as the Emerald Isle of the Caribbean due to its Irish heritage and lush green landscapes, Montserrat is a small British Overseas Territory located in the eastern Caribbean, part of the Lesser Antilles Island chain.

In my opinion, Montserrat is one of the most under-rated destinations in the Caribbean.

Who needs a white sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful black sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.

Who needs a white sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful black sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.

Overlooked by the tourist hordes who holiday on neighbouring Antigua, Montserrat offers many fascinating sights, including some very fine black sand beaches.

I would describe Montserrat, an island whose southern half lies within an exclusion zone due to volcanic activity, as the Pompei of the Caribbean.

The Soufrière Hills volcano, which began erupting in 1995, devastated the capital, Plymouth, and led to the evacuation of much of the island’s southern half.

A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay's Bank branch in Plymouth - scene of the great bank robbery.

A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay’s Bank branch in Plymouth – scene of the great bank robbery.

In May 1998, as Plymouth lay in ruins, the abandoned Barclays Bank building was the scene of a quiet robbery.

Thieves entered the archives room and vaults, stealing XCD $922,000 (Eastern Caribbean dollars), which is equivalent to US$341,000. 

The robbers where later apprehended and served time in prison.


Did you know? 

Montserrat has the distinction of being the only state whose capital, Plymouth, is an abandoned ghost town. 

Buried beneath many metres of volcanic ash, Plymouth was abandoned following volcanic eruptions in 1995 and 1997, and remains uninhabitable.

You can tour the ruins of Plymouth with one authorised tour guide who has been specially trained to take people inside the restricted exclusion zone.

You can learn more about these tours in my Montserrat Travel Guide on taste2travel. 


While the northern settlement of Brades now functions as the de facto capital, Plymouth is still officially the capital. 

View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.

View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.

Montserrat also has a rich musical heritage and was once home to the Air Recording Studios which were established by Sir George Martin, the former manager of the Beetles.

Several musical legends recorded at AIR Studios Montserrat, including Paul McCartney, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, The Police, and members of Dire Straits.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.

The studio, established by George Martin in 1979, attracted numerous high-profile artists who created some of the biggest hits of the era there.

The flag of Montserrat.

The flag of Montserrat.

Despite the challenges from the volcano, Montserrat maintains a small, close-knit population and has slowly rebuilt its economy, which is supported by aid from the United Kingdom, tourism, and agriculture.

The island is self-governing in internal matters, while the UK oversees defense and international affairs.

Click to view taste2travel content for Montserrat. 

Pitcairn Islands

Pitcairn Islands Cover Photo

One of my all-time favourite journeys was to tiny Pitcairn Island, a remote British Overseas Territory located in a remote corner of the South Pacific Ocean.

It is the only inhabited island in a group of four volcanic islands known as the Pitcairn Islands.

The MV Silver Supporter is a dedicated passenger and cargo supply ship chartered by the Pitcairn Island government.

The MV Silver Supporter is a dedicated passenger and cargo supply ship chartered by the Pitcairn Island government.

With no airport on Pitcairn Island, the only way to reach this remote outpost is on the MV Silver Supporter supply ship which sails from Mangareva, French Polynesia.

St. Paul’s Pool, a natural lava rock pool at the westernmost point of Pitcairn island.

St. Paul’s Pool, a natural lava rock pool at the westernmost point of Pitcairn island.

Occasional cruise ships also call at the island, although, due to frequent bad weather, passengers are not always guaranteed to be able to land on the island.


Did you Know? 

Sunset at Anson Bay, on the west coast of Norfolk Island.

Sunset at Anson Bay, on the west coast of Norfolk Island.

To fully understand the story of Pitcairn Island, you also need to understand the story of Norfolk Island, presently an Australian territory which is located a mere 6,271 km (3,300 mi) west of Pitcairn Island, on the other side of the Pacific Ocean.

Norfolk Island is actually home to most of the descendants of the HMS Bounty mutineers.

Following the mutiny, the mutineers settled on Pitcairn Island with their Tahitian wives.

With nothing much to do, by the 1850’s, the swelling population had outgrown its tiny (5 square km) island home.

The Pitcairners appealed to Queen Victoria for a larger piece of real estate, somewhere in the Pacific Ocean.

She responded by allocating the recently abandoned penal colony of Norfolk Island, which lies 1,673 km off the east coast of Australia.

On the 3rd of May 1856, a British government-supplied ship relocated 194 Pitcairn Islanders (the entire population) to Norfolk Island, who arrived at their new home on the 8th of June 1856.

The Pitcairn Islanders originally lived in the abandoned convict buildings in Kingston before moving to their own 50-acre land grants, where they built homes and farms.

A gravestone in the Kingston cemetery for Dinah Adams, the eldest daughter of John Adams, one of the Bounty mutineers.

A gravestone in the Kingston cemetery for Dinah Adams, the eldest daughter of John Adams, one of the Bounty mutineers.

The descendants of the Pitcairn Islanders now make up half of Norfolk Island’s population, and a walk through the rows of headstones in the islands’ one cemetery in Kingston show those who were direct descendants of the Bounty mutineers, with numerous gravestones bearing the surnames of Christian, Quintal, McCoy, Adams and Young.

The Norfolk Island Museum includes relics from the Bounty, which were carried to the island when Pitcairn was abandoned in 1856.

Sometime later, a small group of Pitcairners decided to return to Pitcairn Island, where they resettled. You can read more about Norfolk Island in my Norfolk Island Travel Guide.


The territory is most famous as the refuge of the mutineers from HMS Bounty and their Tahitian companions who settled there in 1790.

Flag of Pitcairn Islands.

Flag of Pitcairn Islands.

With a population of fewer than 50 people, Pitcairn is one of the smallest and most isolated communities in the world.

The capital is Adamstown, which is also the island’s only settlement.

A view of Pitcairn Island and the tiny capital of Adamstown.

A view of Pitcairn Island and the tiny capital of Adamstown.

The local economy is limited, relying on subsistence farming, handicrafts, and small-scale tourism.

Pitcairn is self-governing in most internal matters, but the United Kingdom retains responsibility for defense and foreign relations.

Click to view taste2travel content for Pitcairn Islands. 

Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha

Saint Helena Cover Photo

Located in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, almost halfway between Africa and South America, Saint Helena (pop: 4,439) is a very remote British Overseas Territory.

The island is part of a wider territory that also includes Ascension Island (1,100 km/ 700 mi) to the northwest and Tristan da Cunha (2,100 km/ 1,300 mi) to the south.

Longwood House became famous as the place where Napoleon Bonaparte spent the last years of his life in exile.

Longwood House became famous as the place where Napoleon Bonaparte spent the last years of his life in exile.

The island is perhaps best known as the place of exile and death of Napoleon Bonaparte in the early 19th century.

The capital is Jamestown, which is situated in a narrow, steep-sided ravine known as James Valley.

It is named after James, Duke of York.

A small stream known as “The Run” flows through the valley.

The capital and largest town on Saint Helena, Jamestown is home to 625 souls.

The capital and largest town on Saint Helena, Jamestown is home to 625 souls.

Founded in 1659, the town is built on igneous rock, running for about one mile from the seafront up the valley to the inland, which is split into Upper and Lower parts.

Saint Helena has a rugged, volcanic landscape and a mild subtropical climate.

Flag of Saint Helena.

Flag of Saint Helena.

Its economy is modest, relying on aid from the UK, tourism, and a small-scale fishing industry.

The terminal at Saint Helena Airport.

The terminal at Saint Helena Airport.

A major development for the island was the opening of its first airport in 2016, improving access to what was once one of the world’s most isolated inhabited islands.

South African airline, Airlink, operate one flight per week from Johannesburg to St. Helena with a flying time of 6 hours and 15 minutes.

The island is self-governing in most internal matters, while the UK handles defense and international affairs.

While I have visited Saint Helena, I have yet to visit the other 2 constituent parts of this territory – i.e. Ascension and Tristan da Cunha.

They are both on my short travel wish list.

Click to view taste2travel content for Saint Helena. 

Turks & Caicos Islands

Turks Caicos Cover Photo

Stunningly beautiful, the Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) is a British Overseas Territory located in the Atlantic Ocean, southeast of the Bahamas and north of Hispaniola.

The territory consists of two island groups: the larger Caicos Islands and the smaller Turks Islands, with the capital located in Cockburn Town on Grand Turk Island.

A view over the south coast of Provo Island.

A view over the south coast of Provo Island.

Known for their white-sand beaches, clear turquoise waters, and vibrant coral reefs, the islands are a popular destination for luxury tourism and water sports.

Flag of Turks and Caicos

Flag of Turks and Caicos

The economy is primarily driven by tourism, offshore finance, and real estate development.

The Turks and Caicos Islands are self-governing in most internal matters, with the United Kingdom responsible for defense and foreign affairs. English is the official language, and the U.S. dollar is the official currency.

Click to view taste2travel content for Turks and Caicos. 

France

Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.

Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.

The French overseas territories (collectively known as “territoires d’outre-mer”) are regions that are under the sovereignty of France but are located outside of the European continent.

These territories have different legal statuses and degrees of autonomy.

More than any other former colonial power, the French maintain tighter control over their territories.

As an example, most of the French territories use only the French flag as their official flag.

A Cayenne Carnival Participant.

A Cayenne Carnival Participant.

As for currency, many territories use the Euro as their official currency or, in the case of the three French Pacific territories (French Polynesia, New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna) they use a common currency – the CFP franc – which is pegged to the Euro.

The cost of living in French territories is much higher than in other territories!

Following is a breakdown of the French (populated) overseas territories, organised by their administrative status.

Overseas Departments and Regions The following territories are classified as Overseas Departments and Regions (DROM – Départements et Régions d’Outre-Mer). These are fully part of France, like regions in mainland France. They use the euro and are part of the EU.

  • Guadeloupe (Caribbean)
  • Martinique (Caribbean)
  • French Guiana (Guyane) (South America)
  • Réunion (Indian Ocean)
  • Mayotte (Indian Ocean)

Overseas Collectivities The following territories are classified as Overseas Collectivities (COM – Collectivités d’Outre-Mer). These have more autonomy than DROMs and may have their own local laws. Not all are part of the EU.

  • Saint Pierre and Miquelon (near Canada)
  • Saint Barthélemy (Caribbean)
  • Saint Martin (Caribbean; shares the island with Dutch Sint Maarten)
  • Wallis and Futuna (South Pacific)
  • French Polynesia (South Pacific; includes Tahiti)

Special Status The territory of New Caledonia has a special status due to its independence process.

French Guiana

French Guiana Cover Photo

French Guiana (Guyane) is an overseas territory of France located on the northeastern coast of South America, bordered by Brazil, Suriname, and the Atlantic Ocean.

Although it lies in South America, it is considered an integral part of France and the European Union and has a distinctly ‘Caribbean’ vibe. 

Located in downtown Cayenne, Place du Coq is named after the rooster which sits atop a column in the middle of the square.

Located in downtown Cayenne, Place du Coq is named after the rooster which sits atop a column in the middle of the square.

French Guiana is the only state in South America where the Euro is the official currency. In this little slice of France in South America, it’s strange to see baguette-carrying locals walking the streets of the capital Cayenne, passing by buildings which proudly fly the French and EU flags.

A Cayenne Carnival Participant.

A Cayenne Carnival Participant.


Did you know?  The Carnival of French Guiana, held in Cayenne, is known as the longest carnival in the world.

It spans from Epiphany (early January) to Ash Wednesday (February or March).

This duration, typically lasting two months, makes it considerably longer than many other carnivals.


Flag of French Guiana

Flag of French Guiana.

The region is known for its vast rainforests, rich biodiversity, and cultural diversity.

While French Guiana is mostly covered by inaccessible Amazon jungle, it is also home to the Guiana Space Centre in Kourou, one of the world’s most important satellite launch sites.

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The best way to explore French Guiana is with a rental car.

I hired a car in Cayenne and drove one-way to the town of Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni which is on the Maroni River, opposite the Surinamese town of Albina.

After dropping my car at the local Avis agent, I hopped on a ferry and crossed to Suriname!

Easy!

Click to view taste2travel content for French Guiana. 

French Polynesia

French Polynesia Cover Photo

French Polynesia is an overseas territory of France located in the South Pacific Ocean.

It is made up of over 100 islands and atolls, spread across five main archipelagos, including the well-known Society Islands, home to Tahiti and Bora Bora.

While the capital, Papeete, is 15,714 kilometres (9,765 miles) from Paris, French Polynesia remains politically tied to France.

A view of the Sofitel Moorea resort and the stunning lagoon which surrounds the island of Moorea.

A view of the Sofitel Moorea resort and the stunning lagoon which surrounds the island of Moorea.

During my last visit to Papeete in June, 2024, election posters were plastered on billboards around town urging locals to vote in the French national legislative election.

Each of the territories elect members who serve in the national assembly in Paris.   

The flag of French Polynesia.

The flag of French Polynesia.

Known for its stunning lagoons, volcanic peaks, and vibrant Polynesian culture, the territory is a popular tourist destination and an important part of France’s presence in the Pacific region.


Did you know?

At 5 million square kilometres (1.9 million square miles), the territorial waters of French Polynesia span an area as large as the landmass of the European Union.


Click to view taste2travel content for French Polynesia.

Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe Cover Photo

Guadeloupe is an overseas territory of France located in the Caribbean, consisting of two main islands, Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre, along with several smaller islands.

The butterfly-shaped Guadeloupe is a unique destination in the Caribbean thanks to its two main islands which are geographically very different from each other, offering visitors two different holiday experiences from one destination.

Basse-Terre (the western wing of the butterfly) is mountainous and volcanic.

The highest point on the island, La Soufrière, is an active volcano and the highest peak in the Lesser Antilles.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe National Park.

The island is home to black-sand beaches and rainforests with cascading waterfalls.

A short drive away, across a narrow sea channel (Rivière Salée), the island of Grande-Terre is a huge piece of flat, raised limestone seabed.

With its many white-sand beaches, Grand-Terre is, naturally, the centre for tourism.

As an integral part of France and the European Union, Guadeloupe uses the euro and follows French law.

The flag of France is used in Guadeloupe.

The flag of France is used in Guadeloupe.

The culture of this Caribbean melting-pot reflects a blend of French, African, and Caribbean influences, making it a vibrant and diverse destination.

The capital is Basse-Terre, while the largest city is Pointe-à-Pitre which serves as the location for the airport.

I explored Guadeloupe in a rental car which was very pleasant due to the fantastic infrastructure which is on par with French infrastructure.

Click to view taste2travel content for Guadeloupe. 

Martinique

Martinique Cover Photo

Martinique is yet another very appealing Caribbean France territory which is located in the eastern Caribbean, part of the Lesser Antilles.

As an integral part of France and the European Union, it uses the euro and follows French administrative and legal systems.

The island is known for its stunning beaches, lush tropical landscapes, and the active Mount Pelée volcano.

La Mauny rum is one of many fine rums which are produced on Martinique.

La Mauny rum is one of many fine rums which are produced on Martinique.

For those who appreciate a fine rum, Martinique offers rum production on another level.

During the 20th century, Martinique rum producers refined their techniques, distinguishing rhum agricole as a high-quality spirit distinct from industrial (molasses-based) rums.

In 1996, Martinique became the only rum-producing region in the world to receive a French AOC designation (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), like Champagne or Cognac.

This legally defines how Rhum Agricole de Martinique must be made, including:

  • Specific sugarcane varieties
  • Geographic origin
  • Harvesting and fermentation methods
  • Distillation techniques (typically in column stills)

I spent time driving a rental car around Martinique, taking my time to explore the nature, fine beaches and of course the many antique rum distilleries.

I especially recommend a visit to the excellent Trois Riviere Rhum distillery and a tasting of their award-winning Trois Rivières Triple Millésime.

The flag of Martinique which was adopted in 2013.

The flag of Martinique which was adopted in 2013.

Martinique’s culture is a rich blend of French and Caribbean influences, reflected in its language, cuisine, music, and traditions.

The 'Hotel de Ville' (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

The ‘Hotel de Ville’ (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

The capital city, Fort-de-France, is the island’s political, economic, and cultural centre.

Click to view taste2travel content for Martinique. 

Mayotte

Mayotte Cover Photo

Located in the Indian Ocean, the French territory of Mayotte is one of 4 islands which comprise the Comoros archipelago, with the other three islands forming the independent country of Comoros

Mayotte consists mainly of two islands, Grande-Terre (shaped like a seahorse) and Petite-Terre, all of which is surrounded by a spectacular coral-filled lagoon. 

The 'S' Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef which surrounds Mayotte.

The ‘S’ Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef which surrounds Mayotte.

The best way to appreciate the size of the lagoon and the mountainous topography of this once volcanic island is by taking an ultra-lite flight with the wonderful Les ULM de Mayotte who offer spectacular sightseeing flights over the island.

Fred, my pilot from Les ULM de Mayotte, giving me the safety briefing. The ultra-lite is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.

Fred, my pilot from Les ULM de Mayotte, giving me the safety briefing. The ultra-lite is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.

As an integral part of France, Mayotte uses the euro and is represented in the French National Assembly and Senate.

Its population is predominantly of Comorian and Malagasy origin, with French, Shimaore, and Kibushi widely spoken.

Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.

Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.

Mayotte’s culture blends African, Malagasy, Arab, and French influences, while its economy relies on agriculture, fishing, and growing support from France and the European Union.

The flag of France is used on Mayotte.

The flag of France is used on Mayotte.

Daily flights to Mayotte are operated by Air Austral from their base at Roland Garros International Airport on Reunion Island.

When flying around the Indian Ocean, Air Austral offer very good value on multi-city tickets.

Africa Travel Quiz: Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

I flew with Air Austral between Mauritius, Reunion, Mayotte and the Seychelles on a multi-city ticket which was not too expensive.

Click to view taste2travel content for Mayotte.  

New Caledonia

New Caledonia Cover Photo

Charming and inviting, New Caledonia is a French overseas territory in the southwest Pacific Ocean, located east of Australia.

The territory combines French influence with the traditions of the indigenous (Melanesian) Kanak people, creating a unique cultural blend.

It is made up of the main island of Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands, the Isle of Pines, and smaller islets, all surrounded by one of the world’s largest lagoons and coral reef systems.

Grand Terre is indeed a big island, at about 400 kilometres in length and 50 – 70 kilometres in width.

It is the heart of the archipelago, home to the majority of the population (292,639), the capital city Nouméa, and most of the economic and political activity.

La Grande Terre is an island of stark contrasts.

La Grande Terre is an island of stark contrasts.

I spent one week exploring the island of Grand Terre in a rental car.

Grand Terre is surrounded by the world’s second-largest barrier reef, creating a vast turquoise lagoon that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The reef and lagoon host incredible biodiversity, including many endemic marine species.

I had the opportunity to do some scuba diving in the lagoon which I would highly recommend!

Araucaria pine trees provide the perfect backdrop for the Piscine Naturelle on the Isle of Pines.

Araucaria pine trees provide the perfect backdrop for the Piscine Naturelle on the Isle of Pines.

I also spent time exploring the stunningly beautiful Isle of Pines, which is a short flight south of Grand Terre.

The flag of New Caledonia.

The flag of New Caledonia.

Known for its rich biodiversity, stunning landscapes, and significant nickel resources, New Caledonia enjoys a high degree of autonomy within France and continues to play an important role in the Pacific region.

My ultra-lite plane at Koné airport.

My ultra-lite plane at Koné airport.

The best way to view the sights of the lagoon is on an ultra-lite flight from Koné airport.

A highlight of the flight is a view of the spectacular ‘Blue Hole of Voa’ and the famous ‘Heart of Voh’.

A view of the 'Heart of Voh' from my ultra-light flight.

A view of the ‘Heart of Voh’ from my ultra-light flight.


Trouble in Paradise! 

Despite its large degree of autonomy, in May 2024, protests and riots broke out in New Caledonia, which led to at least 13 deaths, the declaration of a state of emergency on 16 May, deployment of the French army, and eventually a visit from President Emmanuel Macron.

The unrest followed a controversial voting reform, initiated in Paris, which aimed to change existing conditions which prevent up to one-fifth of the population (French ex-pats) from voting in provincial elections.

The 56-metre high Amédée Lighthouse soars above the island of the same name.

The 56-metre high Amédée Lighthouse soars above the island of the same name.

This angered the indigenous Kanak’s who realised that more French voters on the roll will result in their dream of independence never being realised, since French ex-pats would never vote to leave France.

I visited Noumea in October of 2024, at a time when the airport was still surrounded by stacked rolls of razor wire, buildings in the city centre had been gutted by fire and a curfew remained in place in the capital, requiring everything to be closed by 9pm.

All has now returned to normal in paradise!


Click to view taste2travel content for New Caledonia. 

Réunion

Reunion Cover Photo

Réunion is a French overseas department and region located in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar and southwest of Mauritius.

Réunion was one of the most surprising travel destinations for me! I loved it! 

A side view of the Église Notre Dame des Laves better illustrates its position in the lava field.

A side view of the Église Notre Dame des Laves better illustrates its position in the lava field.

I spent two weeks exploring the island in a rental car and still left many (lava) stones unturned.

Home to a population of around 900,000 (many being French ex-pats from mainland France), Réunion is an island which is known to the French and almost no one else!

I believe the French keep this amazing destination as a secret from the outside world.

'Living on the Edge' - houses built close to the edge of a deep gorge, as seen from my helicopter flight over Réunion Island.

‘Living on the Edge’ – houses built close to the edge of a deep gorge, as seen from my helicopter flight over Réunion Island.

I only met French tourists on the island and English is rarely spoken, even by the staff at the Saint-Denis tourist information centre.

I would describe the attitute towards tourism on Réunion as for the French, by the French.

The stunning Cascades de Grand Galet lie a short drive inland from the town of St. Joseph, Réunion Island.

The stunning Cascades de Grand Galet lie a short drive inland from the town of St. Joseph, Réunion Island.

Réunion is an island which offers spectacular volcanic scenery, beautiful beaches, historic towns and fine French cuisine.

Cars parked in a car park (bottom right) inside the Cirque de Salazie provide a sense of scale for the towering walls which encircle the three cirques.

Cars parked in a car park (bottom right) inside the Cirque de Salazie provide a sense of scale for the towering walls which encircle the three cirques.

Known for its dramatic volcanic landscapes, including the active Piton de la Fournaise and the towering Piton des Neiges, the island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional natural beauty.

The flag of France is used on Reunion Island.

The flag of France is used on Reunion Island.

Its population is a vibrant mix of cultures with roots in Europe, Africa, India, China, and Madagascar, reflected in its diverse cuisine, music, and traditions.

As an integral part of France and the European Union, Réunion combines tropical island charm with modern infrastructure, making it a unique destination in the Indian Ocean.

Click to view taste2travel content for Reunion Island. 

Saint Barthélemy

Saint Barts Cover Photo

Ritzy, glamorous, Saint Barthélemy, often called St. Barts, is a French overseas collectivity in the Caribbean, part of the Lesser Antilles.

Known for its white-sand beaches, luxury resorts, and chic atmosphere, the island has become a renowned destination for high-end tourism.

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Despite its small size, it offers a mix of French flair and Caribbean charm, with influences seen in its cuisine, architecture, and culture.


Did you Know? 

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

Sweden had two colonies in the Caribbean: Saint Barthélemy (from 1784 to 1878) and a brief period of possession of Guadeloupe (1813-1814) after the Napoleonic Wars.

Saint Barthélemy was the longer-lasting and primary Swedish Caribbean colony, established as a free port and a significant trading centre. 

Sweden acquired the island from France in 1784 in exchange for trading rights in Gothenburg. 

The capital, Gustavia, was named in honour of King Gustav III of Sweden.

The island was returned to France in 1878. 


I visited St. Barts on a daytrip from neighbouring St. Martin, where travel costs are much more reasonable.

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

I explored the island in a rental car and found one day to be sufficient time to explore this tiny corner of paradise.

The flag of France is used on Saint Barts.

The flag of France is used on Saint Barts.

Governed with a degree of autonomy while remaining under French sovereignty, Saint Barthélemy combines relaxed island living with an exclusive international appeal.

Click to view taste2travel content for Saint Barts.  

Saint Martin

Saint Martin Cover Photo

Saint Martin is a French overseas collectivity in the northeastern Caribbean, sharing the island of the same name with Sint Maarten, a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.


Did you know?  Saint Martin is the only place in the world where France and the Netherlands share a border! 


The French side is known for its relaxed atmosphere, picturesque beaches, gourmet cuisine, and blend of Caribbean and European culture.

In stark contrast, the much busier Dutch side of the island, Sint Maarten, is more developed, more commercial, and is home to the main international airport and a large dock where multiple cruise ships can dock at any one time.

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin - Orient Bay Beach.

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin – Orient Bay Beach.

With a diverse population and a vibrant tourism industry, Saint Martin offers a unique mix of French sophistication and island charm, while maintaining close political and cultural ties to France.

The flag of France is used on Saint Martin.

The flag of France is used on Saint Martin.

Click to view taste2travel content for Saint Martin. 

Saint Pierre and Miquelon

Saint Pierre and Miquelon is a small French overseas territory located in the North Atlantic Ocean, just south of the Canadian island of Newfoundland.

Home to 5,223 souls, the town of Saint-Pierre is the main administrative and cultural hub of the territory of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

Home to 5,223 souls, the town of Saint-Pierre is the main administrative and cultural hub of the territory of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

Comprising several islands, the territory’s main centres are Saint-Pierre, the administrative and cultural hub, and Miquelon-Langlade, known for its rugged landscapes and wildlife.

The larger, but less populated island of Miquelon-Langlade offer an abundance of hiking opportunities.

The larger, but less populated island of Miquelon-Langlade offer an abundance of hiking opportunities.

The total population of the islands is 5,819, of which 5,223 lived in Saint-Pierre and 596 in Miquelon-Langlade.

Wildlife, such as these Harbour seals on Miquelon Island, can be found throughout this remote French Territory.

Wildlife, such as these Harbour seals on Miquelon Island, can be found throughout this remote French Territory.

An uninhabited island, Île aux Marins (Sailors Island) is a small, picturesque island located just off the coast of Saint-Pierre.

The now uninhabited Île aux Marins was once home to a thriving community of cod fisherman.

The now uninhabited Île aux Marins was once home to a thriving community of cod fisherman.

Once a bustling fishing community, it is now uninhabited but preserved as a living museum of the islands’ maritime past.

A view of the Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on <i>Île aux Marins</i> (Sailor's Island).

A view of the Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on Île aux Marins (Sailor’s Island).

The island features colorful wooden houses, a restored church (Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins), a school, and remnants of old fishing stages and warehouses.

A drivable isthmus connects Miquelon and Langlade islands.

A drivable isthmus connects Miquelon and Langlade islands.

The islands offer a unique blend of French and North American influences, with French as the official language and the euro as the currency.

The flag of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

The flag of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

Fishing has traditionally been the backbone of the economy, though tourism and services are increasingly important.

A native Indian canoe hangs inside Our Lady of Ardilliers Catholic Church on Miquelon Island.

A native Indian canoe hangs inside Our Lady of Ardilliers Catholic Church on Miquelon Island.

The territory retains a distinctly French character, evident in its cuisine, architecture, and way of life.

Click to view taste2travel content for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. 

Wallis & Futuna

Wallis Futuna Cover Photo

Wallis and Futuna is a French overseas collectivity in the South Pacific, located between Fiji and Samoa.

The territory is made up of three main volcanic islands—Wallis (Uvea), Futuna, and Alofi—along with several smaller islets, surrounded by coral reefs and lagoons.

Lake Lalolalo is one of several, deep, crater lakes which can be found on the formerly volcanic Wallis Island.

Lake Lalolalo is one of several, deep, crater lakes which can be found on the formerly volcanic Wallis Island.

Unlike many other French territories, Wallis and Futuna retains traditional Polynesian social structures, with local kings recognized alongside French administration.


Did you know? 

Wallis and Futuna is unique within France as it’s the only territory where traditional monarchies are officially recognised and integrated into the French political system.

There are three customary kingdoms: Uvea (on Wallis Island) and Alo and Sigave (on Futuna and Alofi islands).

These kingdoms coexist with the French administration, with the kings playing a role in customary and religious matters.


The islands are known for their strong cultural heritage, distinctive traditions, and a slower pace of life, offering a blend of Polynesian identity and French influence in a remote and tranquil setting.

Flag of Wallis and Futuna

Flag of Wallis and Futuna

The only way to reach Wallis Island is on one of the twice weekly flights which are operated by Aircalin (the national carrier of New Caledonia). I spent one week exploring both Wallis and Futuna Island.

This single aircraft, operated by Air Loyauté, connects Wallis and Futuna Island twice a day.

This single aircraft, operated by Air Loyauté, connects Wallis and Futuna Island twice a day.

Most travellers visit only Wallis Island but I highly recommend taking the flight across to the much smaller and much more traditional Futuna Island.

Waiting for the flight at Futuna Airport.

Waiting for the flight at Futuna Airport.

Home to just 3,225 souls, Futuna Island is deeply rooted in traditional polynesian culture, with customs and traditions playing a vital role in daily life.

Click to view taste2travel content for Wallis and Futuna. 

 

Netherlands

All of the following Dutch Caribbean territories were once part of the Netherlands Antilles, which was disbanded in 2010.

Aruba

Aruba Cover Photo

Aruba is a sun-soaked island in the southern Caribbean Sea and a constituent country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, located just off the coast of Venezuela.

Aruba Party Bus

An Aruba party bus.

Celebrated for its white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and consistently warm, dry climate, Aruba has earned a reputation as a premier Caribbean getaway and is especially popular with sun-seeking American tourists.

The inviting white sand of Eagle beach, Aruba.

The inviting white sand of Eagle beach, Aruba.

The island is distinguished by its striking desert-like landscapes, dotted with cacti and dramatic rock formations, which contrast beautifully with its coastal scenery.

Aruban whip-tail lizard.

Indigenous Aruban whip-tail lizard.

Aruba’s culture is a vibrant blend of Dutch, African, Spanish, and Indigenous influences, reflected in its languages, cuisine, festivals, and music.

Dutch-style Architecture Aruba

Dutch-style architecture in downtown Oranjestad.

Its capital, Oranjestad, is known for colorful Dutch colonial architecture, lively shopping streets, and a welcoming atmosphere.

With its natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and reputation for hospitality, Aruba offers visitors an island experience that is both relaxing and full of character.

The flag of Aruba.

The flag of Aruba.

I’ve had the pleasure of making several trips to Aruba, each time using a rental car to explore this diverse island.

Aruba Travel Guide: My rental car on Aruba.

My rental car on Aruba.

Click to view taste2travel content for Aruba. 

Bonaire

Bonaire Cover Photo

Beautiful Bonaire bills itself as a Diver’s Paradise – and it really is!

Bonaire is a serene island in the southern Caribbean Sea and a special municipality of the Netherlands, located just off the coast of Venezuela.

A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver's paradise.

A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver’s paradise.

Known as a diver’s paradise, Bonaire is world-famous for its pristine coral reefs, calm waters, and thriving marine life, much of which is protected within the Bonaire National Marine Park.

It is worth noting that unlike many other Caribbean islands, Bonaire does not offer any sandy beaches.

The island is surrounded by a reef and a rocky shoreline, hence it being a Diver’s Paradise, however it is not a place for bathing.

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

Beyond its underwater wonders, the island features striking natural landscapes, including salt flats, a salt mine with towering mountains of salt, flamingo habitats, and cactus-studded hills, offering a rugged yet peaceful beauty.


A spirit made from cactus!

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

Well worth trying while on Bonaire, is a unique spirit called Cadushy Liqueur, which is crafted from the native cadushy cactus, also known as the kadushi cactus.

This liqueur, along with other spirits like Rom Rincón (a rum also made from cactus), is produced by The Cadushy Distillery, the only distillery on Bonaire.

The Kadushi cactus - the key ingredient for Cadushy vodka.

The Kadushi cactus – the key ingredient for Cadushy vodka.

Highly recommended! 


Bonaire’s culture reflects a blend of Dutch, African, and Caribbean influences, seen in its languages, music, and laid-back lifestyle.

With its commitment to environmental preservation, warm hospitality, and relaxed atmosphere, Bonaire stands out as an unspoiled Caribbean destination ideal for scuba divers, nature lovers, adventurers, and those seeking tranquility.

Bonaire Flag

The flag of Bonaire.

I spent a week on Bonaire, scuba diving and exploring the island in a rental car.

Rental car on Bonaire.

My rental car on the west coast of Bonaire.

Click to view taste2travel content for Bonaire. 

Curaçao

Curacao Cover Photo

One of my favourite Caribbean destinations, Curaçao is a vibrant island in the southern Caribbean Sea and a constituent country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

The protected waters of Playa Lagun are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

The protected waters of Playa Lagun are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

Situated just off the coast of Venezuela, the island is renowned for its year-round sunny climate, colourful Dutch colonial architecture, and stunning beaches framed by crystal-clear waters.

The houses which line the Handelskade form a colourful waterfront in Willemstad.

The houses which line the Handelskade form a colourful waterfront in Willemstad.

Its capital, Willemstad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, showcases pastel-colored buildings, bustling waterfronts, and a lively blend of European and Caribbean influences.

Curaçao’s culture reflects its diverse heritage, shaped by African, Dutch, Spanish, and Indigenous traditions, which can be experienced through its cuisine, music, and festivals.

Old Town of Willemstad

Old Town of Willemstad

The island is also celebrated as a premier diving destination, with extensive coral reefs and rich marine life.

Combining natural beauty, historical charm, and cultural diversity, Curaçao offers an inviting gateway to the Caribbean with a distinctly Dutch-Caribbean character.

Curaçao Flag.

The flag of Curaçao.

I’ve made several trips to Curaçao and each time I’ve rented a car to explore the island.

Curaçao License Plate

The license plate of my rental car on Curaçao.

Click to view taste2travel content for Curaçao. 

Saba

Saba Cover Photo

One of the most overlooked destinations in the Caribbean, but totally appealing, Saba (population 2,158) is a special municipality of the Netherlands located in the Caribbean, within the Lesser Antilles.

Often called the Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean, the island is known for its lush green peaks, volcanic landscapes, and rich marine life.

Its centrepiece is Mount Scenery, a dormant volcano and the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands which looms large over the tiny island, at an elevation of 870 metres (2,854 feet).


Did you Know?

This view of Saba airport, shortly after take-off, shows the perilous position of the short runway.

This view of Saba airport, shortly after take-off, shows the perilous position of the short runway.

Saba is famous for being home to one of the most dangerous airport landings in the world, with the airport boasting the world’s shortest commercial runway at just 400 metres (1,312 feet).

Not only is the runway very short, but it is flanked at either end by 18-metre cliffs that plunge into the sea.

The only pilots who are trained to land at Saba Airport fly for Winair which is a Saint Martin-based airline.

The airline operates de Havilland STOL (Short Take-Off and Landing) aircraft which is best suited to the short runway at Saba. 

One peculiar landing technique is that the pilots deliberately stall the plane upon landing, which results in everyone, and everything, being thrown forward inside the plane.

This abrupt stop, however, is much preferred to the alternative – the plane running off the edge of the runway and plunging into the raging sea far below.


The town of Windwardside clings to the slopes of Mount Scenery.

The town of Windwardside clings to the slopes of Mount Scenery.

Despite the thrilling airport landing, Saba offers a tranquil atmosphere, celebrated for eco-tourism, hiking, and scuba diving.

The Saba National Marine Park is a protected marine area which encompasses the waters and seabed around the island.

Mount Scenery looms large over the town of Windwardside.

Mount Scenery looms large over the town of Windwardside.

I had the opportunity to scuba dive in the marine park which features healthy corals and underwater volcanic formations.

Due to the lack of tourists, I was the only diver in the marine park, along with my divemaster.

Though politically tied to the Netherlands, the island retains its own distinct Caribbean character and identity.

A strict building code on Saba ensures all buildings, such as these cottages in Windwardside, are a uniform white, with green trim and red roofs.

A strict building code on Saba ensures all buildings, such as these cottages in Windwardside, are a uniform white, with green trim and red roofs.


Traditional Building Colour Scheme on Saba

All houses on Saba must adhere to a strict traditional colour scheme. 

The primary wall color is white, often achieved through a whitewashing process, with red roofs.

Windows are typically a similar size and often feature shutters, which can be painted either green and white, red and white, or all white.

Picket fences, if present, are also trimmed in an approved colour.

This consistent style, mandated by local law, creates a charming and uniform appearance throughout the island’s villages. 


 

The flag of Saba.

The flag of Saba.

The official currency on Saba is the US dollar. The Bottom is the capital and largest town, with a total of 488 inhabitants.

The 2nd largest town, and main tourist hub, is the charming town of Windwardside which is home to 422 souls.

Click to view taste2travel content for Saba.  

Sint Eustatius

Sint Eustatius Cover Photo

Sint Eustatius, commonly called Statia, is a special municipality of the Netherlands located in the Caribbean’s Lesser Antilles.

The small island is known for its rich history as a former colonial trading hub, earning the nickname “The Golden Rock,” as well as its volcanic landscapes and lush nature.

The historic Dutch-built Fort Oranje in Oranjestad.

The historic Dutch-built Fort Oranje in Oranjestad.

Its capital, Oranjestad, features well-preserved historical buildings and forts, reflecting its Dutch colonial heritage.

While on Statia, I based myself in Oranjestad which is the capital and only town on the island.

The island is small and walkable, so a rental car isn’t required.


Did you know? 

A Statia Blue Bead.

A Statia Blue Bead.

Statia is famous for the Statia Blue Bead.

Back in the 17th century the Dutch East India Company used blue beads to acquire slaves from West Africa, who then later used the beads as currency on Statia, and even sometimes to buy their freedom.

The beads were also used for barter purposes. 

It is said the Dutch used 24 of these blue beads for the purchase of Manhattan Island from the native Americans.

The beads were manufactured in Amsterdam by a glass manufacturer between 1660 and 1680 and were shipped around the world by the boatload.

Some of those boats were destined for Statia.

It is believed one of these boats became shipwrecked off the island and today the seafloor is littered with these beads.

It is also said the slaves threw their beads into the sea when slavery ended.

Occasionally these beads wash up onto the beaches of the island.

It is said that “you do not find a blue bead but it finds you” and that those who possess such a bead will always return to the island.


Flag of Sint Eustatius.

Flag of Sint Eustatius.

With a small population (3,270) and a relaxed, unspoiled atmosphere, Sint Eustatius combines natural beauty, cultural history, and a strong sense of community, making it a unique part of the Dutch Caribbean.

Sunset from Oranjestad beach.

Sunset from Oranjestad beach.

Click to view taste2travel content for Sint Eustatius. 

Sint Maarten

Saint Martin Cover Photo

Sint Maarten (pop: 43,350) is a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, occupying the southern part of the Caribbean Island of Saint Martin, which it shares with the French overseas collectivity of Saint Martin.

Known for its vibrant tourism industry, the island offers beautiful beaches, lively nightlife, and a mix of Dutch Caribbean culture with international influences.

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

Its capital, Philipsburg, serves as a hub for commerce and cruise tourism.

Sint Maarten combines a tropical island lifestyle with Dutch governance, making it a unique and dynamic destination in the Caribbean.

An Air France flight, on final approach to Princess Juliana International Airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

An Air France flight, on final approach to Princess Juliana International Airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

One of the more famous attractions on Sint Maarten is Maho Beach. 

The beach is famous for being adjacent to the Princess Juliana International Airport and is a popular site for tourists and plane watchers, who visit the beach to watch aircraft on final approach land at the airport right at the edge of the water.

The flag of Sint Maarten.

The flag of Sint Maarten.

Click to view taste2travel content for Sint Maarten. 

 

Denmark

Faroe Islands

Faroe Islands Cover Photo

One of the most breath-takingly beautiful destinations anywhere on earth, the Faroe Islands are a self-governing territory of the Kingdom of Denmark, located in the North Atlantic between Iceland, Norway, and Scotland.

Comprising 18 rugged, volcanic islands, the archipelago is known for its dramatic cliffs, sweeping fjords, and rich birdlife.

The breathtakingly beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall plunges 60 metres into the Atlantic Ocean near the village of Gásadalur.

The breathtakingly beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall plunges 60 metres into the Atlantic Ocean near the village of Gásadalur.

The islands have a distinct cultural identity, with their own language, traditions, and cuisine, while remaining under Danish sovereignty.

With a small population and a strong connection to the sea, the Faroe Islands offer a unique blend of natural beauty, maritime heritage, and Nordic charm.

The flag of the Faroe Islands.

The flag of the Faroe Islands.

I spent 10 days driving a rental car to most of the 18 islands, all of which offer incredible scenery.

My rental car, which allowed me to maximise my time on the Faroe Islands.

My rental car, which allowed me to maximise my time on the Faroe Islands.

I highly recommend a trip to this remote outpost which is one of the most surprising destinations I have ever visited.

Click to view taste2travel content for the Faroe Islands. 

Greenland

Greenland Cover Photo

If I had to nominate one standout territory, it would have to be stunning Greenland – the Antarctica of the North.

Hiking trails in Ilulissat offer stunning views of the magnificent Ilulissat Icefjord.

Hiking trails in Ilulissat offer stunning views of the magnificent Ilulissat Icefjord.

Located in North America, Greenland is an autonomous territory within the Kingdom of Denmark, located between the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans, northeast of Canada.

Typical views of the Greenland coast from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.

Typical views of the Greenland coast from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.

The world’s largest island, Greenland is almost entirely covered by a 1.5-km thick ice sheet, with a small population of 57,000 living in towns and villages along the south-west coast.

The Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship arriving in Ilulissat.

The Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship arriving in Ilulissat.

Despite there being no road network in Greenland (outside of the main towns), I managed to spend three weeks exploring the south-west coast by using a public transport option which is little advertised – the incredible Sarfaq Ittuk.

The tiny settlement of Kangaamiut is one of eleven ports served by the Sarfaq Ittuk

The tiny settlement of Kangaamiut is one of eleven ports served by the Sarfaq Ittuk.

This coastal ferry operates a regular service between the northern town of Ilulissat and the southern town of Qaqortoq stopping at 11 ports over a period of 5 days. 

A view of the colourful houses of Ilulissat.

A view of the colourful houses of Ilulissat.

The ferry serves as a vital transportation link for settlements and towns along the coast, especially the smaller towns which have no other means of public transport.

Owned by Arctic Umiaq Line, it’s the only passenger ferry in Greenland and the only way to travel around without flying.

Cruising past icebergs on the Sarfaq Ittuk.

Cruising past icebergs on the Sarfaq Ittuk.

The ship offers a unique opportunity for both locals and tourists to experience Greenland’s coastal scenery and connect with remote communities. 

The cost of a berth on the ship is totally reasonable since they are priced for locals, not tourists!

Floating icebergs, the size of mountains, slowly move into the sea from the Ilulissat Ice Fjord.

Floating icebergs, the size of mountains, slowly move into the sea from the Ilulissat Ice Fjord.

Very good food is served on board which is also priced for locals. Highly recommended!

The picturesque Zion's church, overlooks Disko Bay in Ilulissat.

The picturesque Zion’s church, overlooks Disko Bay in Ilulissat.

Despite its small population, Greenland has a rich Indigenous Inuit culture, which shapes its traditions, language, and way of life.    

The flag of Greenland.

The flag of Greenland.

While it maintains close political and economic ties with Denmark, Greenland has extensive self-rule and is recognised for its unique blend of Arctic wilderness, cultural heritage, and strategic importance in the North Atlantic.

Click to view taste2travel content for Greenland. 

 

Norway

Svalbard

Svalbard Cover Photo

Another amazing travel destination – Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole.

This is the closest inhabited place to the North Pole, which is just 965 km (600 mi) to the north.

Getting up close to a walrus colony is one of many amazing activities on Svalbard.

Getting up close to a walrus colony is one of many amazing activities on Svalbard.

Known for its dramatic polar landscapes of glaciers, mountains, and tundra, it is one of the world’s northernmost inhabited areas.

The main settlement, Longyearbyen (pop: 2,400), serves as the administrative and cultural centre.

Svalbard is governed under the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, which grants Norway sovereignty while allowing citizens of signatory countries rights to reside and work there.

A view of the Norwegian town of Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on Svalbard.

A view of the Norwegian town of Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on Svalbard.

With a small population, abundant wildlife such as polar bears and reindeer, and research stations focused on Arctic science, Svalbard is both a frontier of human settlement and a hub for international scientific cooperation.

A bust of Lenin looks out over Barentsburg.

A bust of Lenin looks out over Barentsburg.

Also on Svalbard, the town of Barentsburg (pop: 400) is a Russian settlement known for its active coal mining operations.

It’s a unique Arctic town, primarily populated by Russian and Ukrainian coal miners and their families. 

A view of the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, the 2nd largest settlement on Svalbard.

A view of the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, the 2nd largest settlement on Svalbard.

Despite being on Norwegian territory, Barentsburg maintains a distinct Russian identity with Soviet-era architecture and infrastructure.

The flag of Norway is used on Svalbard.

The flag of Norway is used on Svalbard.

Another town which is a highlight is Pyramiden which is an abandoned Soviet coal mining settlement.

The abandoned Soviet-era coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.

The abandoned Soviet-era coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.

Founded by Sweden in 1910 and sold to the Soviet Union in 1927, it was a coal mining settlement that operated until 1998.

A bust of Lenin in Pyramiden - the world's northernmost Lenin monument!

A bust of Lenin in Pyramiden – the world’s northernmost Lenin monument!

Today, it’s a tourist destination, known for its well-preserved, albeit decaying, Soviet-era buildings and infrastructure. 

Click to view taste2travel content for Svalbard. 

United States

American Samoa

American Samoa Cover Photo

American Samoa is a remote group of islands and an unincorporated territory of the United States, located in the South Pacific Ocean, southeast of Samoa.

American Samoa National Park.

A view of Pola Island from Craggy Point, part of the American Samoa National Park.

Comprising five main islands—Tutuila, Aunu‘u, Tau, Ofu, and Olosega—along with several smaller islets, the territory is known for its rugged volcanic landscapes, lush rainforests, and pristine beaches.


The Outer Islands of American Samoa

Samoa Airways American Samoa.

Samoa Airways provide all domestic flights in American Samoa.

During my week long stay on American Samoa, I flew to the outer island of Tau.

The outer islands are very quiet, traditional and unhurried, with a lack of infrastructure for tourists.

My family home-stay on Tau island.

My family home-stay on Tau island.

During my few days on Tau, I stayed in a family homestay with a friendly family who also cooked all meals for me since there are no restaurants on the island. 

While there was no possibility to rent a vehicle on the island, I walked everywhere. 

If you are looking to experience a traditional Pacific way of life, I recommend a visit to the outer islands of American Samoa.   


American Samoa is unique for its strong preservation of Samoan culture and traditions, including communal living, tattooing, dance, and language, which remain central to daily life.

“Fatu ma Futi” is one of the most iconic sights in American Samoa.

“Fatu ma Futi” is one of the most iconic sights in American Samoa.

The islands also feature rich marine biodiversity, protected national parks, and coral reefs that attract nature enthusiasts and researchers alike.

Combining natural beauty with cultural heritage, American Samoa offers an authentic Pacific experience that highlights both the environment and the enduring spirit of the Samoan people.

The flag of American Samoa.

The flag of American Samoa.

I explored the main island – Tutuila – in a rental car which is the only option as there is no public transport on the island.

Rental Car American Samoa

My rental car on Tutuila was provided by “Sadie’s by the Sea” at US$70 per day.

The easiest way to access American Samoa in on one of the daily flights with Samoa Airways from Apia, the capital of neighbouring Samoa.

This short flight crosses the International Date Line, taking you from today into yesterday.

On the return flight back to Samoa you fly from today into tomorrow!

Click to view taste2travel content for American Samoa. 

Guam

Guam Cover Photo

Guam is a tropical island territory of the United States located in the western Pacific Ocean, part of the Mariana Islands archipelago.

Known as the “Heart of the Pacific,” Guam boasts a unique blend of natural beauty, from white sand beaches and turquoise waters to lush jungles and dramatic limestone cliffs.

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

The island’s rich history reflects the influence of its Indigenous Chamorro culture, Spanish colonisation, Japanese occupation, and American administration, creating a vibrant cultural tapestry evident in its festivals, cuisine, and traditions.

There is also a sizable Filipino population on Guam who mainly work in the all-important service industry.

Guam serves as both a strategic hub in the Pacific and a welcoming destination for travellers, offering opportunities for snorkeling, diving, hiking, and exploring historic sites.

A view of Tumon Bay - the Waikiki of Guam.

A view of Tumon Bay – the Waikiki of Guam.

Its warm tropical climate, scenic landscapes, and diverse heritage make Guam a captivating island with both cultural depth and natural splendor.

The flag of Guam.

The flag of Guam.

I spent one week exploring Guam in a rental car which is the only way to travel since there is a complete lack of public transport.

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

Click to view taste2travel content for Guam. 

Northern Mariana Islands

The Northern Mariana Islands are one of three populated territories which I have yet to visit, hence there is no content currently available on taste2travel.

Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico Cover Photo

Beautiful Puerto Rico is a vibrant Caribbean Island and an unincorporated territory of the United States, located east of the Dominican Republic and west of the Virgin Islands.

Known for its striking natural diversity, the island features lush rainforests, pristine beaches, rugged mountains, and bioluminescent bays that create a paradise for nature lovers.

View of the dome inside the Capitol Building, San Juan.

View of the dome inside the Capitol Building, San Juan.

Puerto Rico’s rich history reflects a blend of Indigenous Taíno heritage, Spanish colonial influence, African culture, and American modernity, evident in its architecture, music, and traditions.

The beautifully restored San Juan old town.

The beautifully restored San Juan old town.

Its capital, San Juan, is famous for colourful colonial streets, historic forts, and lively cultural scenes, while the island as a whole offers a dynamic mix of cuisine, festivals, and outdoor adventures.

Fresh pasta being prepared in old San Juan.

Fresh pasta being prepared in old San Juan.

Puerto Rico is a destination where natural beauty, cultural depth, and warm hospitality come together, offering an unforgettable Caribbean experience.

The flag of Puerto Rico.

The flag of Puerto Rico.

I explored Puerto Rico in a rental car, spending 10 days circumnavigating what is a fascinating island with much to see and do.


A sad loss! 

The former Arecibo Observatory, before it collapsed.

The former Arecibo Observatory, before it collapsed.

One of the highlights of my time on Puerto Rico was a visit to the incredible Arecibo Observatory. 

The observatory’s main instrument was the Arecibo Telescope, a 305 m (1,000 ft) spherical reflector dish built into a natural sinkhole, with a cable-mount steerable receiver and several radar transmitters for emitting signals mounted 150 m (492 ft) above the dish.

Completed in 1963, it was the world’s largest single-aperture telescope for 53 years, surpassed in July 2016 by a telescope in China. 

This incredible sight once featured in a James Bond film.  

However, on December 1, 2020, worn support cables snapped, causing the suspended instrument platform to crash through the dish. 

It has been announced that the observatory will not be rebuilt. 


Click to view taste2travel content for Puerto Rico. 

U.S. Virgin Islands

USVI Cover Photo

The U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI) are a picturesque group of Caribbean islands and a United States territory located east of Puerto Rico and west of the British Virgin Islands.

Fort Christian, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas.

Fort Christian, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas

Comprised primarily of Saint Thomas, Saint John, and Saint Croix, along with several smaller islands, the USVI is renowned for its stunning white-sand beaches, turquoise waters, and lush tropical landscapes.


Did you know? 

The USVI of St. John was once a Danish colony.  

It became part of the Danish West Indies, along with St. Thomas and St. Croix, in the late 17th and 18th centuries. 

Specifically, Denmark formally colonised St. John in 1718.

The elusive White-tailed deer on St. John.

The elusive White-tailed deer on St. John.

The islands were eventually sold to the United States in 1917. 

Despite US ownership, driving on St. John is on the left-hand side of the road which is a legacy from the Danish colony times! 

St. John has the distinction of being the only place in the United States where traffic drives on the left-hand side of the road. 

I rented a car while on St. John and can attest that driving is made somewhat awkward by this rule since all cars on the islands are US imports (i.e. left-hand drive), so drivers are sitting on the outside of the road rather than in the centre!

As two oncoming vehicles pass each other, both drivers are sitting on the outside edge of the road instead of being in the centre of the road. 

It’s a very strange feeling!  


Beyond its natural beauty, the islands boast a rich cultural tapestry shaped by Indigenous, African, European, and American influences, visible in its historic architecture, vibrant festivals, and local cuisine.

The license plate of my rental car on St. John.

The license plate of my rental car on St. John.

The USVI offers a blend of relaxation and adventure, from exploring coral reefs and hiking scenic trails to delving into colonial history and enjoying lively markets, making it a captivating destination for travelers seeking both beauty and culture.

Flag of the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Flag of the U.S. Virgin Islands.

A short boat ride from neighbour BVI (British Virgin Islands), the USVI offers a blend of relaxation and adventure, from exploring coral reefs and hiking scenic trails to delving into colonial history and enjoying lively markets, making it a captivating destination for travelers seeking both beauty and culture.

Click to view taste2travel content for the U.S. Virgin Islands. 

Australia

Christmas Island

Christmas Island Cover Photo

Christmas Island is an external territory of Australia located in the Indian Ocean, about 350 kilometres south of Java, Indonesia.

Christmas Island red crabs, feasting on a mango.

Christmas Island red crabs, feasting on a mango.

Known for its unique wildlife and lush rainforests, the island is most famous for the annual red crab migration, when millions of crabs cross the island to breed.

A road sign in Settlement indicates road closures during the Red Crab migration season.

A road sign in Settlement indicates road closures during the Red Crab migration season.

What surprised me most during my visit to Christmas Island was that even outside of the migration season, the red crabs are everywhere.

The Robber crab (aka Coconut crab) is the largest crustacean in the world, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring 1-metre from leg tip to leg tip.

The Robber crab (aka Coconut crab) is the largest crustacean in the world, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring 1-metre from leg tip to leg tip.

Apart from the red crabs, the island is home to a healthy population of incredibly large Coconut crabs, which are known locally as Robber crabs.

Apart from the many colourful crabs, the island is an important refuge for birds, with many seabirds nesting on the island.

The Abbott's booby is only found on Christmas Island.

The Abbott’s booby is only found on Christmas Island.

One special bird which can only be found on Christmas Island is Abbott’s booby which is the only species of booby restricted to a single location.

Abbott’s booby breeds in only a few spots on Christmas Island, although it formerly had a much wider range.

While the crab and bird population is sizeable, the human population is small (1,692) but culturally diverse, with influences from Chinese, Malay, and European heritage reflected in local traditions and cuisine.

A view of the rugged north coast of Christmas Island.

A view of the rugged north coast of Christmas Island.

With rich biodiversity, dramatic coastlines, and important phosphate deposits, Christmas Island combines natural wonder with a distinct cultural character, making it a unique part of Australia’s territories.

The flag of Christmas Island.

The flag of Christmas Island.

I spent one week exploring Christmas Island in a rental car which was sufficient enough time.

A road sign on Christmas Island, where the Robber crab is protected.

A road sign on Christmas Island, where the Robber crab is protected.

Whenever driving on the island, you need to give way to any crabs which may be crossing the road (which is often).

Virgin Australia Airlines, at Christmas Island airport.

Virgin Australia Airlines, at Christmas Island airport.

Currently, flights to Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands are operated by Virgin Australia from Perth once a week. However, from November 2025, Virgin will cease flying, with Qantas taking over the route.

Click to view taste2travel content for Christmas Island. 

Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Cocos Keeling Islands Cover Photo

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands are an external territory of Australia located in the Indian Ocean, about halfway between Australia and Sri Lanka.

Two Cocos Malay girls, enjoying some strawberry milk, on Home Island.

Two Cocos Malay girls, enjoying some strawberry milk, on Home Island.

Home to a small population, mainly of Cocos Malay heritage, the islands have a unique blend of Malay and Australian culture.

A photo finish between the leading boats.

A photo finish between the leading boats.

The territory consists of two atolls and 27 small coral islands, of which only two are inhabited. West Island (pop: 141) is home to a small (mainly ex-pat Australian) population, the airport, post office, a small supermarket, police station and other services.

Nearby, Home Island (pop: 466) is home to the local Cocos Malay population who live a traditional lifestyle.

The end of another day in paradise as the sun sets on West Island, the main tourist hub on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

The end of another day in paradise as the sun sets on West Island, the main tourist hub on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

With their turquoise lagoons, palm-fringed beaches, and abundant marine life, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands are celebrated for their natural beauty and laid-back atmosphere, making them a remote but distinctive part of Australia’s overseas territories.


Clunies-Ross Family

Now housed in the Home Island Museum, this bust of John Clunies-Ross used to reside in the library at Oceania House.

Now housed in the Home Island Museum, this bust of John Clunies-Ross used to reside in the library at Oceania House.

The Clunies-Ross family were the original settlers and rulers of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

The family, led by John Clunies-Ross, established a coconut plantation and were often referred to as the “Kings of the Cocos”.

John Clunies-Ross, a Scottish trader, first landed on the islands in 1825 and returned in 1827 with the intention of establishing a settlement. 

The one mosque on Home Island, where 75% of the population are practicing Muslims.

The one mosque on Home Island, where 75% of the population are practicing Muslims.

He brought his family, and a group of Malays, and began developing coconut plantations. 

The Cocos-Malay community, descendants of the workers brought to the islands by the family, developed a unique culture based on Muslim beliefs. 

This community have always lived on Home Island. 

From 1827 to 1978, the Clunies-Ross family controlled the islands, first as a private fiefdom and later under British and Australian sovereignty.

The modern version of the Cocos Rupee was in the form of coloured plastic tokens.

The modern version of the Cocos Rupee was in the form of coloured plastic tokens.

This control also extended to the family issuing their own currency, the Cocos Rupee, which was used to pay the Cocos-Malay workers.

This currency was the only currency which was accepted at the one shop on the island, which was also owned by the Clunies-Ross family. 

This ensured the family maintained 100% control of the entire economy on the island.  

The islands were initially treated as terra nullius by the British government, with the Clunies-Ross family effectively governing as sole owners. 

In 1857, the British annexed the islands, but the family retained significant control. 

In 1978, the Australian government paid the Clunies-Ross family AUD$6.25 million to purchase the remaining land they owned on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

The former residence of the Clunies-Ross family, Oceania House on Home Island, offers a truly memorable accommodation experience.

The former residence of the Clunies-Ross family, Oceania House on Home Island, offers a truly memorable accommodation experience.

This land purchase excluded the family’s residence, Oceania House, and the surrounding area which sits at one end of Home Island.

Named after the last Clunies-Ross woman to live in Oceania House, the Daphne room was my room during my four-night stay.

Named after the last Clunies-Ross woman to live in Oceania House, the Daphne room was my room during my four-night stay.

During my stay on Home Island, I was fortune to be able to stay in one of the opulent guest rooms at Oceania House.

From the downstairs library to the beautifully appointed upstairs bedrooms, Oceania House is full of history and many stories were shared with me by the friendly owner. 

The Clunies-Ross library at Oceania House.

The Clunies-Ross library at Oceania House.

It was a real pleasure to be able to reside in the former home of the Clunies-Ross family – which I had all to myself during my 4-night stay! 


Cocos (Keeling) Islands Flag

The flag of Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

I spent one week on Cocos (Keeling) Islands which was the right amount of time.

This allowed me to stay on both West Island and Home Island.

Driving my rental car on the one, main road with runs from the northern to the southern tip of West Island.

Driving my rental car on the one, main road with runs from the northern to the southern tip of West Island.

While on West Island, I rented a car for the day which allowed me to drive the 10-kilometre (6-mile) length of the one main road on the island.

Cruising around the southern islands of the atoll in my motorised canoe.

Cruising around the southern islands of the atoll in my motorised canoe.

This narrow road, which runs the length of the equally narrow island, provides access to beaches and other attractions along the length of West Island. 

The buggies of Home Island.

The buggies of Home Island.

The much smaller Home Island (230 acres) is easily covered on foot, although the locals all have their own ATV vehicles which are often parked at the wharf.

Click to view taste2travel content for Cocos (Keeling) Islands. 

Norfolk Island

Norfolk Island Cover Photo

Norfolk Island is an external territory of Australia, located in the South Pacific Ocean between Australia, New Zealand, and New Caledonia.

Completed in 1835, the Commissariat Store on Norfolk Island is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the Southern Hemisphere.

Completed in 1835, the Commissariat Store on Norfolk Island is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the Southern Hemisphere.

Known for its iconic Norfolk Island pines, lush landscapes, and rich history, the island has a unique heritage influenced by both its early Polynesian settlers, a British convict penal colony and descendants of the Bounty mutineers who arrived in the 19th century.

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

Today, Norfolk Island is home to a small, close-knit community (pop: 2,188) and offers a blend of natural beauty, cultural traditions, and historical sites, making it a distinctive part of Australia’s territories.

Flag_Norfolk_Island

The flag of Norfolk Island.

I spent one week exploring Norfolk Island, which included many scenic drives in my rental car and a day of scuba diving in the sublime underwater world which surrounds this formerly volcanic island.

Click to view taste2travel content for Norfolk Island. 

New Zealand

Cook Islands

Although I visited the Cook Islands many years ago, I have not created any content on taste2travel.

Niue

The Niue Travel Guide

Niue is a self-governing island nation in free association with New Zealand, located in the South Pacific between Tonga, Samoa, and the Cook Islands.

A view of the west coast from the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.

A view of the west coast from the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.

Often called “The Rock of Polynesia,” Niue is one of the world’s largest raised coral atolls, known for its rugged limestone cliffs, clear waters, and vibrant marine life.

With a small population and close cultural ties to Polynesian traditions, the island offers a tranquil and community-centered way of life.

A view of the north coast of Niue from inside one of the caves at Uluvehi.

A view of the north coast of Niue from inside one of the caves at Uluvehi.

Niueans are New Zealand citizens, and while the island relies on New Zealand for defense and some external affairs, it maintains its own government and distinct identity.

I spent one week exploring the island with a rental 4WD and, with one ring road around the island, you can never get lost.

Being a raised limestone reef, water visibility is excellent on Niue.

Being a raised limestone reef, water visibility is excellent on Niue.

While there are no beaches on Niue, the scuba diving is excellent with visibility at around 80-100 metres and lots of interesting underwater volcanic formations and caves to explore.

The flag of Niue.

The flag of Niue.

Click to view taste2travel content for Niue. 

Tokelau

Tokelau is one of three populated territories which I have yet to visit, hence there is no content currently available on taste2travel.

China

Hong Kong
A view of the densely crowded Kowloon district of Hong Kong.

A view of the densely crowded Kowloon district of Hong Kong.

Hong Kong, officially the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, is a dynamic, high-density metropolis located on the southern coast of China, bordering Guangdong Province and overlooking the South China Sea.

A Star Ferry, crossing Hong Kong harbour.

A Star Ferry, crossing Hong Kong harbour.

Known for its dramatic skyline, deep natural harbour, and distinctive blend of Eastern and Western influences, Hong Kong is one of the world’s most iconic urban destinations.

A panoramic view of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak.

A panoramic view of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak.

The SAR consists of Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, and more than 200 outlying islands.

A sunset view of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak.

A sunset view of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak.

Under the “one country, two systems” arrangement, Hong Kong maintains its own legal system, currency, and immigration controls, giving it a unique status within China.

Hong Kong's "Monster Building" is a famous, densely packed E-shaped residential complex in Quarry Bay.

Hong Kong’s “Monster Building” is a famous, densely packed E-shaped residential complex in Quarry Bay.

Famous for its fast-paced energy, Hong Kong is a global financial hub and a centre for trade, culture, gastronomy, and entertainment.

A tram on crowded Hong Kong Island.

A tram on crowded Hong Kong Island.

Traditional temples sit alongside gleaming skyscrapers, while peaceful hiking trails and beaches contrast with bustling night markets and neon-lit streets.

The Choi Hung Estate in Kowloon is famous for its brightly coloured buildings and iconic, vibrant basketball court.

The Choi Hung Estate in Kowloon is famous for its brightly coloured buildings and iconic, vibrant basketball court.

Its efficient public transport, international connectivity, and rich cultural diversity make Hong Kong a captivating gateway to Asia and a vibrant home for millions.

A basketball court, surrounded by a forest of highrise apartment blocks, in Kowloon, Hong Kong.

A basketball court, surrounded by a forest of highrise apartment blocks, in Kowloon, Hong Kong.

Hong Kong has one of the world’s highest population densities, with roughly 7,000 people per square kilometre, making it extremely crowded, especially in urban areas like Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, though this density is managed through extensive high-rise development and efficient planning, with some districts like Kwun Tong reaching over 50,000 people per sq km.

Despite its small land area and massive population, effective urban planning allows for a livable, though densely packed, environment.

Flag of Hong Kong.

Flag of Hong Kong.

Despite many trips to Hong Kong, I have yet to create any content on taste2travel.

Macau
The most iconic site in Macau - the Ruins of Saint Paul's.

The most iconic site in Macau – the Ruins of Saint Paul’s.

Macau, officially the Macau Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, is a small but vibrant territory located on the southern coast of China, across the Pearl River Delta from Hong Kong.

Macau's original casino, the Casino and Hotel Lisboa was opened in 1970 by Stanley Ho, who, for many decades, held the monopoly on Macau’s casino licenses.

Macau’s original casino, the Casino and Hotel Lisboa was opened in 1970 by Stanley Ho, who, for many decades, held the monopoly on Macau’s casino licenses.

Once a Portuguese colony for more than four centuries, Macau is today a unique blend of Chinese and European influences, visible in its architecture, cuisine, culture, and everyday life.

Paved with its iconic wavy Portuguese-style stones and lined with colourful colonial buildings, Senado Square is the main square of Macau old town.

Paved with its iconic wavy Portuguese-style stones and lined with colourful colonial buildings, Senado Square is the main square of Macau old town.

Covering a compact area that includes the Macau Peninsula and the islands of Taipa and Coloane – now joined by the reclaimed Cotai Strip – the SAR is known for its lively urban atmosphere, UNESCO-listed historic centre, world-class casinos, and a rapidly evolving tourism and entertainment scene.

Occupying reclaimed land, the entertainment and gaming district of Cotai is the Las Vegas of Macau.

Occupying reclaimed land, the entertainment and gaming district of Cotai is the Las Vegas of Macau.

Under the “one country, two systems” framework, Macau maintains its own legal, economic, and immigration systems, giving it a distinct identity within China.

One of several altars at the Kun Lam Tong Temple in Macau.

One of several altars at the Kun Lam Tong Temple in Macau.

Macau’s rich cultural tapestry, efficient transport links with mainland China and Hong Kong, and its dynamic mix of tradition and modernity make it one of Asia’s most fascinating destinations.

Macau's original casino, the funky and retro-looking Casino and Hotel Lisboa and the newer, lotus-inspired Grand Lisboa.

Macau’s original casino, the funky and retro-looking Casino and Hotel Lisboa and the newer, lotus-inspired Grand Lisboa.

Macau’s tourism has seen significant growth in recent years, with total arrivals in 2024 hitting nearly 35 million, driven mainly by mainland China but with surging international visitors.

Visitor numbers in 2025 are on track to hit 40 million.

A view of the densely populated Macau Peninsula with the Chinese city of Zhuhai on the far left, across the waterway.

A view of the densely populated Macau Peninsula with the Chinese city of Zhuhai on the far left, across the waterway.

While Macau is home to lots of mega-sized casinos and is known as the ‘Las Vegas of Asia‘, the real charm of Macau lies in the old town, where 25 UNESCO World Heritage Sites are listed under one serial site – Historic Centre of Macau.

My Macau Travel Guide includes a self-guided walking tour of these sites.

The flag of Macau.

The flag of Macau.

Click to view taste2travel content for Macau. 

Unpopulated Territories

Dependent TerritoryCapitalPopulationRegionClaimed By
Ashmore & Cartier IslandsNA0Indian OceanAustralia
Baker & Howland IslandsNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Bouvet IslandNA0Atlantic OceanNorway
Coral Sea IslandsNA0Pacific OceanAustralia
Heard & Mc Donald IslandsNA0Indian OceanAustralia
Jan MayenNA0Atlantic OceanNorway
Jarvis IslandNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Johnston AtollNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Kingman ReefNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Midway IslandsNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Navassa IslandNA0CaribbeanUSA
Palmyra AtollNA0Pacific OceanUSA
Peter I IslandNA0Southern OceanNorway
South Georgia & South Sandwich IslandsGrytviken0Atlantic OceanUK
Wake IslandNA0Pacific OceanUSA

Not covered in this guide are the 15 unpopulated territories which are all remote islands which are home to nesting seabirds and other marine creatures. Some of these islands host scientific research stations. Since there is no population on these islands, the only way to access them is via a cruise ship or charter/ private boat.

Restricted Territory

Also not included in the scope of this guide is the restricted territory of British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT).

BIOT is a British overseas territory located in the Indian Ocean, halfway between Tanzania and Indonesia.

It’s composed of 55 small islands in an archipelago known as the Chagos Archipelago, the largest of which is Diego Garcia.

Recently, the UK has signed an agreement to transfer sovereignty of the Chagos Islands to Mauritius (the traditional owners of the islands), while retaining control of the Diego Garcia military base which houses 3,000 military personnel from the UK and the USA. 

The base is used by both the United States and the United Kingdom and is one of the most strategically important bases for operations in the Middle East and Asia.

Unrecognised States

Unrecognised StatesCapitalPopulationRegionTaste2travel Content
Abkhazia Sukhumi245,000EuropeN/A
Northern CyprusNorth Nicosia382,836EuropeLink
Somaliland Hargeisa6,200,000AfricaLink
South OssetiaTskhinvali53,532EuropeN/A
TransnistriaTiraspol367,776EuropeLink
Western SaharaLaayoune646,100AfricaLink

Unrecognised states, also known as Breakaway states, or Separatist states, are territories that have declared independence from their parent state but are not yet widely recognised as sovereign nations by the international community.

Overlooking the north coast of Cyprus, Kantara castle dates from the Byzantine period.

Overlooking the north coast of Cyprus, Kantara castle dates from the Byzantine period.

They often have their own governments, flags, and some degree of control over their territory, but lack full diplomatic recognition and acceptance by most other countries. 

They exist in a state of de-facto independence, meaning they function as independent entities in practice, but not in the eyes of the global community.

While they issue their own stamps, currency and passports, none of these are recognised by the international community and hence are not valid outside of the breakaway state itself.

There are a total of six such states with three of them, Abkhazia, South Ossetia and Transnistria being formed by Russian populations which have separated from their parent state (Georgia and Moldova) with the full support of Moscow.

Abkhazia

Abkhazia is one of two breakaway states which I have yet to visit, hence there is no content available on taste2travel.

Northern Cyprus

Northern Cyprus Cover Photo

Northern Cyprus, officially calling itself the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), is a self-declared state that occupies the northeastern part of the island of Cyprus.

It was established in 1983, following Turkey’s military intervention in 1974 after a coup in Cyprus backed by Greece.

Kantara Castle occupies a lofty position high in the Kyrenia mountain range.

Kantara Castle occupies a lofty position high in the Kyrenia mountain range.

While Northern Cyprus functions with its own government, institutions, and economy, it is recognised only by Turkey.

The United Nations, and the wider international community, regard Northern Cyprus as part of the Republic of Cyprus.

A view of the cloister at Bellapais Abbey.

A view of the cloister at Bellapais Abbey.

The region has a majority Turkish Cypriot population and maintains strong political, economic, and military ties with Turkey, making it one of the world’s longest-standing “frozen conflict” territories.

Flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

I entered Northern Cyprus from Cyprus in the capital of Nicosia, passing from one side of Nicosia, through one of the official border checkpoints between the south (Greek Cypriot) and north (Turkish Cypriot) sectors of the city.

Bellapais Monastery is a highlight of Kyrenia.

Bellapais Monastery is a highlight of Kyrenia.

It is important to note, that should you first enter Northern Cyprus from Turkey, you will be unable to enter Southern Cyprus, since the Greek Cypriot government does not recognise Northern Cyprus, so they consider that you are coming from a place that doesn’t exist and will refuse you entry.

While there are many cheap deals from Turkey to Northern Cyprus, if you enter Northern Cyprus from Turkey, you must also return back to Turkey.

A view of the Greek side of the Ledra Palace crossing point in Nicosia.

A view of the Greek side of the Ledra Palace crossing point in Nicosia.

However, if you cross into Northern Cyprus from the south, through one of the many checkpoints, you will be able to pass back into the south upon your return.

Visible from the Greek Cypriot side of the boder, this giant Northern Cyprus flag covers the area of four football fields.

Visible from the Greek Cypriot side of the boder, this giant Northern Cyprus flag covers the area of four football fields.

During my time in Northern Cyprus, I used a rental car, which I hired in the port city of Kyrenia, to explore the many amazing sights.

The "Green Line", the border between north and south Cyprus blocks many of the streets in Nicosia old town.

The “Green Line”, the border between north and south Cyprus blocks many of the streets in Nicosia old town.

I spent 5 days exploring Northern Cyprus, although I could have spent much longer as there is a wealth of history and interesting sights to explore. The official currency of Cyprus is the Euro, while in Northern Cyprus, the official currency is the Turkish Lira.

Click to view taste2travel content for Northern Cyprus.

Somaliland

Somaliland Cover Photo

Somaliland is a self-declared republic in the Horn of Africa, located in the northwest of Somalia along the Gulf of Aden.

It proclaimed independence from Somalia in 1991 after the collapse of the Somali central government, establishing its own political institutions, military, and currency.

The Hargeisa War Memorial features a MiG-17 fighter aircraft of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby.

The Hargeisa War Memorial features a MiG-17 fighter aircraft of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby.

Though it functions as a de facto state with relative stability, democratic governance, and its own economy, Somaliland is not internationally recognised and is officially considered an autonomous region of Somalia.

A money changer in Hargeisa central market.

A money changer in Hargeisa central market.

The territory has a distinct history, having once been a British protectorate, and today blends Somali cultural traditions with a strong sense of national identity separate from Mogadishu’s authority.

Flag of Somaliland.

Flag of Somaliland.

I entered Somaliland in a 4WD, travelling for 18-hours, mostly through the night and through the desert, from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.

Taking a break on the 18-hour journey to Hargeisa, so my fellow passengers, all of whom were Muslims, could observe the sunrise pray.

Taking a break on the 18-hour journey to Hargeisa, so my fellow passengers, all of whom were Muslims, could observe the sunrise pray.

This was an enduring journey which resulted in everyone and everything being covered in a thick layer of red dust by the time we reached Hargeisa. I exited Somaliland by travelling overland into Ethiopia.

There are many goats on the road in Somaliland.

There are many goats on the road in Somaliland.

I enjoyed my time in Somaliland, a country which is peaceful and friendly, and trying to move forward in terms of development, albeit without the recognition of the international community.

If you require a visa, these are easily obtained from the Somaliland embassy in Djibouti City.

Click to view taste2travel content for Somaliland. 

South Ossetia

South Ossetia is one of two breakaway states which I have yet to visit.

Transnistria

Transnistria Cover Photo

Transnistria, officially calling itself the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, is a breakaway region located along the Dniester River between Moldova and Ukraine.

It declared independence from Moldova in 1990 following the collapse of the Soviet Union, leading to a brief war in 1992.

The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.

The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.

Although it functions with its own government, military, and currency, Transnistria is not internationally recognised and is considered by the United Nations to be part of Moldova.

Transnistira has the distinction of being the only state which uses plastic composite coins as currency.

Transnistira has the distinction of being the only state which uses plastic composite coins as currency.

The region maintains close political, economic, and military ties with Russia, which stations peacekeeping troops there.

The Tank-34 monument, which features a WWII-era Soviet armoured tank.

The Tank-34 monument, which features a WWII-era Soviet armoured tank.

Known for its Soviet-style symbols and identity, Transnistria remains one of Europe’s “frozen conflict” zones, with a unique mix of Moldovan, Russian, and Ukrainian cultures.

Transnistria Flag

Transnistria Flag

I entered Transnistria from Moldova in my Moldovan rental car.

The Moldovans do not have a border checkpoint since they do not recognise Transnistria as being anything more than a part of Moldova.

The entrance to Bender Fortress.

The entrance to Bender Fortress, a highlight of Transnistria.

There is a border checkpoint on the Transnistrian side which required me to register my visit to the breakaway state.

This ageing peace (Frieden) sign adorns the side of an apartment block on the road from Tiraspol to Bender.

This ageing peace (Frieden) sign adorns the side of an apartment block on the road from Tiraspol to Bender.

I spent a couple of days exploring the capital, Tiraspol, and the surrounding countryside before driving back into Moldova.

My small collection of Transnistrian stamps, which cost me US$3 from Tiraspol Post Office.

My small collection of Transnistrian stamps, which cost me US$3 from Tiraspol Post Office.

Although Transnistria issues its own stamps, these are not valid for postage outside of the break-away state.

I did manage to send postcards of Transnistria, with some Transnistrian stamps attached, to Australia, only by including Moldovan stamps.

Transnistria is a fascinating destination for those who enjoy visiting Soviet-era relics.

Click to view taste2travel content for Transnistria. 

Western Sahara

Western Sahara Cover Photo

Western Sahara is a disputed territory in North Africa, bordered by Morocco, Algeria, and Mauritania, with a long Atlantic coastline.

Once a Spanish colony, it has been the subject of a longstanding conflict since Spain’s withdrawal in 1975, with Morocco controlling most of the territory and the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), led by the Polisario Front, seeking independence.

Camels! A common sight throughout Western Sahara!

Camels! A common sight throughout Western Sahara!

The United Nations considers Western Sahara a non-self-governing territory, and its final status remains unresolved.

Western Sahara is effectively divided into two main zones:

  • The Moroccan-controlled zone: Morocco administers about 80% of the territory, including most of the population centres (such as Laayoune and Dakhla), the Atlantic coastline, and resource-rich areas like the phosphate mines at Bou Craa. Morocco refers to this area as its “Southern Provinces” and has built infrastructure, towns, and roads to consolidate its control.

  • The Polisario-controlled zone (Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic / Free Zone): The Polisario Front controls the remaining 20% of the territory, mostly in the east, along the borders with Algeria and Mauritania. This area is sparsely populated desert, with authority exercised mainly through military outposts and nomadic communities.

Distances in Western Sahara are vast.

Distances in Western Sahara are vast.

Separating these two zones is the Moroccan Berm, a defensive structure stretching over 2,700 kilometres across the desert (from north to south).

Puerto Rico Beach, one of many isolated beaches which line the long coast of Western Sahara.

Puerto Rico Beach, one of many isolated beaches which line the long coast of Western Sahara.

Built in the 1980s, the berm is made of sand walls, trenches, barbed wire, and minefields, and is heavily guarded by Moroccan forces.

It is considered one of the longest military barriers in the world.

Street art in Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara.

Street art in Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara.

This divide has created a frozen conflict: Morocco maintains de facto control over the majority of Western Sahara, while the Polisario Front continues to seek independence, with support from refugee camps across the border in Algeria.

Despite the political dispute, the region is known for its vast deserts, rich nomadic traditions, and strategic location along the northwest coast of Africa.

Over the years, as Morocco has cemented its control over this disputed land, through investment and development, more countries have decided to recognise Morocco’s territorial claim.

The flag of Western Sahara is never flown on the Moroccan side of the Berm.

The flag of Western Sahara is never flown on the Moroccan side of the Berm.

Currently, there is no border or checkpoint between Morocco and Western Sahara because Morocco considers this land to be just another province!

I entered Western Sahara on a bus which travelled from Agadir to Laayoune without any police checks being performed.

Views of the azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune, Dahkla.

Views of the azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune, Dahkla.

I then travelled down the entire coast of Western Sahara, eventually entering into Mauritania, without any police checks inside the territory.

An excellent, paved, highway runs the entire length of the 1,110 kilometre (690 mile) coastline.

Click to view taste2travel content for Western Sahara. 

Antarctica

Antarctica Cover Photo

Although not a dependent territory, I have included Antarctica in this guide for the purpose of completeness.

Antarctica is Earth’s southernmost continent, centered on the South Pole and surrounded by the Southern Ocean.

It is the coldest, driest, and windiest continent, covered almost entirely by ice, which holds the majority of the world’s freshwater reserves.

A Weddell seal relaxing on D’Hainaut Island.

A Weddell seal relaxing on D’Hainaut Island.

Home to unique wildlife such as penguins, seals, and whales, as well as vital research stations operated by many nations, Antarctica is both a fragile natural environment and a key location for understanding global climate and environmental change.

No country owns Antarctica.

Chinstrap penguins, such as this one at Trinity Island, are closely related to the Gentoo and Adélie penguins.

Chinstrap penguins, such as this one at Trinity Island, are closely related to the Gentoo and Adélie penguins.

Antarctica has no permanent population or government, instead, it is governed collectively under the Antarctic Treaty System, signed in 1959 and now joined by more than 50 countries.

However, seven countries maintain official territorial claims on parts of Antarctica:

  • Argentina
  • Australia
  • Chile
  • France
  • New Zealand
  • Norway
  • United Kingdom

Some of these claim’s overlap, and most of the world does not formally recognise them.

Gentoo penguins on D’Hainaut Island travel along a Penguin Highway.

Gentoo penguins on D’Hainaut Island travel along a Penguin Highway.

Under the Antarctic Treaty, all claims are essentially set aside, and the continent is dedicated to peaceful use and scientific research.

Worth getting out of bed for this! An early morning view of the Graham passage from the bow of the Ocean Diamond.

Worth getting out of bed for this! An early morning view of the Graham passage from the bow of the Ocean Diamond.

Understandably, Antarctica is a very popular tourist destination which is reached by cruise ships operating from several countries, but mainly from the port of Ushuaia in southern Argentina.

Quark Expeditions' Ocean Diamond, moored in the incredibly beautiful Graham passage.

Quark Expeditions’ Ocean Diamond, moored in the incredibly beautiful Graham passage.

I visited Antarctica on a Quark Expedition which was my #1 one travel highlight!

A trip to Antarctica is a once in a lifetime experience.

A Humpback whale diving in Wilhelmina (aka 'Whale-mina') bay.

A Humpback whale diving in Wilhelmina (aka ‘Whale-mina’) bay.

You can read more about my trip with Quark in my Antarctica Travel Guide.

Click to view taste2travel content for Antarctica. 

A Geographical Anomaly

You can read all about the fascinating Sovereign Military Order of Malta in my SMOM Travel Guide.

Also, out of scope of this guide, but included for completeness, is the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

I love geographical oddities, so when I learnt about a sovereign state which issues its own passports, stamps, currency, license plates, has a government, a permanent mission to the UN but no territory – I was fascinated!

The view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica through the famous 'Keyhole of Malta'. This view includes three states - SMOM, Italy and the Vatican.

The view of the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica through the famous ‘Keyhole of Malta’. This view includes three states – SMOM, Italy and the Vatican.

The Sovereign Military Order of Malta (SMOM) has been a permanent observer at the United Nations (UN) since 1994 and maintains diplomatic relations with 113 UN member states, and also has diplomatic relations with the European Union, the Holy See, and Palestine.

The headquarters of the SMOM, the Magistral Palace, is located on Via dei Condotti in downtown Rome.

The headquarters of the SMOM, the Magistral Palace, is located on Via dei Condotti in downtown Rome.

First recognised as sovereign by Pope Paschal II in 1113, most people rarely hear about the SMOM, a lay Catholic religious order which has existed for 930 years.

Also known as the Order of Malta or Knights of Malta, the order was traditionally of a military, chivalric and noble nature.

The flag of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

The flag of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

Despite its name, the Knights haven’t had any military function since leaving Malta in 1798 and today are known for their relief corps – the Maltesers – who provide humanitarian assistance around the globe.

Located on the grounds of the Magistral Villa, the Santa Maria del Priorato church was designed by famed Venetian architect Giovanni Battista Piranesi.

Located on the grounds of the Magistral Villa, the Santa Maria del Priorato church was designed by famed Venetian architect Giovanni Battista Piranesi.

Today, the ‘territory’ of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta consists of three properties in downtown Rome, the Magistral Palace, the Magistral Villa and the House of the Knights of Rhodes.

If you are visiting Rome, I recommend you read my Sovereign Military Order of Malta Travel Guide and then visit the three different properties which constitute this ‘sovereign state’.

Click to view taste2travel content for the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

Country & Territory List

The Taste2travel Country & Territory list includes 251 UN+ countries, dependent (populated) territories, Antarctica – plus unrecognised (break-away) states. 

To make this MS Excel-format list your own, simply click on the DOWNLOAD link below, then, in the ‘Visited’ column – place an ‘X‘ next to those destinations you’ve visited.

The only cells which can be edited on the spreadsheet are those in the 'Visited' column.

The only cells which can be edited on the spreadsheet are those in the ‘Visited’ column.

Note: the only cells which can be edited are in the ‘Visited‘ column – all other cells are locked as they do not need to be edited.

Your total count will be displayed at the bottom of the list.

List Download

Click here to download the Taste2travel Country and Territory List >>

 

Nomad Mania

A highly recommended website for passionate travellers is Nomadmania, which is an online community and website that focuses on the concept of world travel and exploration.

It is a platform designed for avid travelers and “nomads” who are passionate about visiting and documenting various destinations around the globe.

At its core, Nomadmania aims to encourage travellers to explore as many countries and territories as possible.

The website provides a comprehensive list of all the recognised countries and territories in the world and numerous regions, currently standing at 1301 entries.

Users can create an account and track their progress by ticking off the places they have visited.

Overall, Nomadmania serves as a hub for travel enthusiasts to connect, inspire each other, and track their global exploration progress.

It aims to foster a sense of community among passionate travellers and encourage them to embark on new adventures while discovering the diversity of our world.  


That’s the end of my guide to the Dependent Territories of the World. If you wish to leave feedback/ comments, you can do so using the form below or via the contact page. Safe Travels! Darren


 

Western Sahara Photo Gallery

Street art in Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara.

Western Sahara Photo Gallery

This is a Western Sahara Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Western Sahara Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Western Sahara Travel Guide

A view of the coast of Western Sahara at Puerto Rico beach, south of Dakhla.

Western Sahara Travel Guide

This is a Western Sahara Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: March 2024

Introduction

Welcome to the enchanting land of Western Sahara, a place where endless desert landscapes meet the sparkling waters of the Atlantic Ocean.

The White Dune is a highlight of Dakhla.

The White Dune is a highlight of Dakhla.

A visit to Western Sahara has been a long-held travel dream, and it didn’t disappoint.

There is something mesmerising about empty, endless desert landscapes. They truly do free the mind!

Street art in Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara.

Street art in Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara.

Nestled between Morocco and Mauritania, Western Sahara offers a blend of rugged beauty, rich cultural heritage, and a fascinating history.

From the vast dunes of the Sahara Desert to the vibrant coastal towns, Western Sahara beckons adventurers with its charm and mystique.

Boasting an almost deserted (pun intended) coastline of 1,110 km (690 km), Western Sahara offers no shortage of beaches, most of which you’ll have to yourself!

Porto Rico Beach, one of many isolated beaches which line the long coast of Western Sahara.

Porto Rico Beach, one of many isolated beaches which line the long coast of Western Sahara.

The coastal city of Dakhla is the main tourist hub, offering a wealth of accommodation options and daily flights from Europe and Morocco.

The ever-windy Dakhla Lagoon is a world renown kite-surfing spot, attracting thousands of kite-surfers who stay at the many kite-camps.

Venturing further into the Sahara, there are many beautiful and intriguing attractions which lie within an easy day-trip from Dakhla.

Distances in Western Sahara are vast.

Distances in Western Sahara are vast.

In this Western Sahara travel guide, I’ll delve into the wonders of this lesser-known region, uncovering its hidden treasures and offering insights to make your journey unforgettable.

Whether you seek thrilling desert adventures, cultural immersion, or simply a peaceful escape, Western Sahara promises a journey like no other.

Camels! A common sight throughout Western Sahara!

Camels! A common sight throughout Western Sahara!

Disputed Territory

While this is a disputed land, about 20% of the territory is controlled by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR); the remaining 80% is occupied and administered by Morocco.

A wall (the ‘berm‘) separates the two territories and that wall cannot be crossed!

There are no separate border formalities or any other additional formalities in place.

You do not need to show your passport to enter Western Sahara from Morocco, and there are no ‘Western Sahara’ passport stamps. You are simply stamped into and out of ‘Morocco’ depending on your port of entry/ exit.

It’s all Morocco and looks and feels like any other part of Morocco.


Overland to Mauritania

Camel traders at the Camel market in Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania.

Camel traders at the Camel market in Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania.

Currently, the route across the Sahara Desert, linking Morocco and Mauritania, via Western Sahara, is the only trans-Saharan route which is (legally) open to travellers.

Anyone wishing to travel overland between Europe and sub-Sahara Africa, must pass through Western Sahara.

I travelled overland from Agadir (Morocco) to Nouakchott (Mauritania) via public transport, a journey of approximately 2,000 km (1,242 mi).

For those overlanders reading this guide, I have included information on continuing the journey to Mauritania.

You will find details on the border crossing and the Mauritanian Visa-on-arrival (VOA) in the ‘Visa Requirements section below.

Details on the daily bus which connects Dakhla with Nouadhibou and Nouakchott are included in the ‘Getting There‘ section below.


Location

Dakhla 73000

Western Sahara is a region located in North Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, Morocco to the north, Algeria to the northeast, and Mauritania to the east and south.

It is situated in the Maghreb region of North Africa, known for its diverse landscapes ranging from expansive deserts to rugged mountains and coastal plains.


Video: Cruising through Western Sahara by bus!


The region spans an area of about 266,000 square kilometres (103,000 square miles), making it roughly the size of the United Kingdom.

The landscape of Western Sahara is dominated by the vast Sahara Desert, which covers the majority of the territory.

This desert terrain is characterised by endless dunes, rocky plateaus, and arid plains.

In the east, the landscape transitions into the mountainous region of the Saharan Atlas, with peaks reaching over 2,000 metres (6,500 feet) in elevation.

A view of the coast of Western Sahara at Porto Rico beach, south of Dakhla.

A view of the coast of Western Sahara at Porto Rico beach, south of Dakhla.

To the west, Western Sahara boasts a stunning coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, featuring beautiful beaches and fishing villages.

This coastal area is an important economic and cultural hub, with cities like Laayoune and Dakhla serving as major centres of activity.

Overall, Western Sahara’s geographical location presents a unique blend of desert beauty, coastal charm, and rugged mountain landscapes, offering visitors a diverse range of experiences and attractions to explore.

People

Street art in Laayoune, Western Sahara.

Street art in Laayoune, Western Sahara.

The people of Western Sahara are diverse, with a rich cultural tapestry woven from various ethnic groups.

The Sahrawi people are the indigenous inhabitants of this region, known for their resilience and nomadic heritage.

Traditionally, they are nomadic herders who have roamed the vast expanse of the desert for generations, relying on their deep knowledge of the land and its resources for survival.

The Sahrawi culture is deeply rooted in traditions that emphasise community, hospitality, and solidarity.

Extended families form the core of Sahrawi society, with strong bonds that extend beyond blood relations.

Respect for elders and a strong sense of communal responsibility are integral to their way of life.

Due to the turbulent history of Western Sahara, many Sahrawis have experienced displacement and resettlement.

A significant portion of the population now resides in refugee camps in neighboring Algeria, where they have maintained their cultural identity and traditions despite the challenges.

In urban areas like Laayoune, the largest city in Western Sahara, you’ll find a mix of Sahrawis, Moroccans, and other ethnic groups.

Despite the challenges they have faced, the people of Western Sahara continue to preserve their cultural heritage and maintain a strong sense of identity.

Flags

Western Sahara Flag

The flag of Western Sahara is never flown in areas controlled by the Moroccan government.

The flag of Western Sahara is never flown in areas controlled by the Moroccan government.

You will never see the flag of Western Sahara being flown in the Moroccan-controlled areas of this disputed land. Instead, the Moroccan flag is flown everywhere!

The flag of Western Sahara is a symbol of the Sahrawi people’s struggle for independence and self-determination.

The flag is a tri-colour of three equal horizontal stripes (black, white, and green from top to bottom) overlaid by a red triangle issuing from the hoist side. These are the Pan-Arab colors.

The design of the flag is based on that of the Palestinian flag, which in turn was derived from the colours used in the Arab Revolt.

There is a red star and crescent in the middle stripe. The star and crescent are considered symbols of Islam, and can be seen on flags of other neighbouring Islamic countries such as Algeria and Mauritania

Each element of the flag holds significant meaning:

  • Black: The top black stripe represents the dark days of struggle and hardship endured by the Sahrawi people, particularly during their fight for independence.
  • White: The middle white stripe symbolises peace and hope for a peaceful resolution to the conflict and a better future for the Sahrawi people.
  • Green: The bottom green stripe represents the abundant natural resources of Western Sahara, including its rich land and vegetation.
  • Red: The red triangle on the hoist side stands for the blood shed by Sahrawis in their struggle for independence. It also symbolises their commitment to sacrifice for their land and freedom.

This flag was adopted by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), the self-proclaimed government of the Western Sahara, in 1976.

It is a powerful emblem of the Sahrawi people’s aspirations for independence and sovereignty over their homeland.

The flag is often displayed proudly in Sahrawi refugee camps, as well as in areas of Western Sahara under the control of the Polisario Front, the liberation movement fighting for Sahrawi self-determination.

Moroccan Flag

The flag of Morocco.

The flag of Morocco.

The Moroccan flag is the only flag which is be displayed in the Moroccan-controlled part of Western Sahara.

The current flag has served as the national flag of Morocco since 17 November 1915.

It has a red field with a green pentagram (a 5-pointed star) in the centre.

The green star represents the five pillars of Islam, and the red represents the blood of the ancestors and unity.

Currency

The Moroccan Dirham is the official currency used in the Moroccan-controlled area of Western Sahara.

The Moroccan Dirham is the official currency used in the Moroccan-controlled area of Western Sahara.

The official currency of the Moroccan-controlled area of Western Sahara is the Moroccan Dirham, which has the international currency code of MAD.

This is due to the fact that Morocco, which claims sovereignty over Western Sahara, uses the Moroccan Dirham as its official currency throughout its territories, including Western Sahara.

All Moroccan Dirham banknotes feature Mohammed VI, the current ruler of Morocco.

All Moroccan Dirham banknotes feature Mohammed VI, the current ruler of Morocco.

In areas under the control of the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), the self-proclaimed government of Western Sahara, the Algerian Dinar (DZD) is also sometimes used alongside the Moroccan Dirham.

However, the Moroccan Dirham is the more widely accepted and official currency in most transactions within the region.

Uncirculated Moroccan Dirham banknotes.

Uncirculated Moroccan Dirham banknotes.

All currency in Morocco is issued by the country’s central bank – the Bank Al-Maghrib.

The current series of banknotes were issued in 2013 and feature a portrait of King Mohammed VI and the royal crown.

Each of the notes show a Moroccan door to the left of the King, demonstrating the richness of the country’s architectural heritage, and symbolising the openness of the country.

Exchange Rate

The Moroccan Dirham is the official currency of Morocco.

The Moroccan Dirham is the official currency of Morocco.

The current (April 2024) exchange rates for the Moroccan Dirham (MAD) are:

Credit Cards

Unlike most countries in Africa, credit cards are widely accepted in Morocco.

ATMs

Also, unlike most countries in Africa, ATMs are widely available in Morocco and accept all credit cards.

Costs

Travel costs throughout the region are wonderfully reasonable.

Unlike so many parts of sub-Sahara Africa, Morocco and Western Sahara are ideal for those travelling on a budget.

Sightseeing

Laayoune

Colourful shopfronts in downtown Laayoune.

Colourful shopfronts in downtown Laayoune.

Laayoune, also spelled El Aaiún, is the largest city in Western Sahara. It serves as the capital of the region and is situated on the Atlantic coast.

A city of very few tourist sights, Laayoune means “water sources” in Arabic, in reference to the natural oasis providing the town with its water supply.

This relaxed, charming, laid-back city is an important administrative, economic, and cultural centre within Western Sahara.

One of many town squares in Laayoune.

One of many town squares in Laayoune.

The city has experienced significant growth over the years, with a population (220,000) that has expanded due to migration and urbanisation.

Laayoune serves as a hub for transportation within the region, with an airport and road connections linking it to other parts of Western Sahara and Morocco.

Flights from Laayoune airport connect the city to other Moroccan cities plus the Canary Islands, which lie a short distance offshore.

St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church

Located in Laayoune, the St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church was built in 1954, during the Spanish colonial presence in Spanish Sahara.

Located in Laayoune, the St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church was built in 1954, during the Spanish colonial presence in Spanish Sahara.

A last vestige of the colony that was Spanish Sahara, the St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church is hidden away in a back street of Laayoune.

The church was built in 1954, during the Spanish colonial presence in Spanish Sahara.

Today, the St. Francis of Assisi church opens twice a week for mass which is attended by the small Spanish expat population of Laayoune.

Today, the St. Francis of Assisi church opens twice a week for mass which is attended by the small Spanish expat population of Laayoune.

While the population of Laayoune is almost 100% Muslim, the church serves the small Spanish expat community that is still present, as well as serving active personnel of the UN mission in the country.

Closed most of the time, the church is only open during mass which is held twice a week at 8 pm on Saturday and 12:00 pm on Sunday.

The Grand Mosque of Laayoune

The Grand Mosque of Laayoune features a square Almohad-style minaret - a common feature on mosques throughout the Maghreb.

The Grand Mosque of Laayoune features a square Almohad-style minaret – a common feature on mosques throughout the Maghreb.

Like most mosques in Morocco, the Grand Mosque of Laayoune, the city’s principal mosque, features a square Almohad-style minaret.

A detailed view of the square Almohad-style minaret at the Grand Mosque of Laayoune.

A detailed view of the square Almohad-style minaret at the Grand Mosque of Laayoune.

The Almohad’s ruled over Morocco, Algeria and Al-Andalus (Spain) during the 12th-13th century.

The square Almohad-style minaret can be found from Seville (Spain), throughout Morocco and Algeria.

Dakhla

Despite being a desert city, Dakhla is home to many green spaces.

Despite being a desert city, Dakhla is home to many green spaces.

Although, in terms of population, the 2nd city of Western Sahara (pop: 107,000), Dakhla is the #1 tourist hub in the region, with direct flights from Europe and Morocco delivering large numbers of tourists, especially kite-boarding enthusiasts, for which the region is famous.

No shortage of camels in the Sahara Desert.

No shortage of camels in the Sahara Desert.

Located 1,696 km (1,052 mi) south of the Moroccan capital of Rabat, Dakhla is closer to Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania, which is 822 km (510 mi) to the south.

Dakhla, also known as Ad Dakhla or Villa Cisneros, is a city located at the end of a long, narrow peninsula, the Río de Oro Peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean.

While the city has limited appeal, its most famous for its kite-boarding camps which are located north of town, on the shores of the (always windy) Dakhla Lagoon.


Desert Tours

Views of the azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune.

Views of the azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune.

Beyond Dakhla, the Sahara Desert holds many stunning attractions which should not be missed.

I ventured into the desert with a local driver/ guide by the name of Sidi, who is the neighbour of the owner of the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.   

I shared a 4WD with three French friends with each of us paying €60 for the full day trip. 

This was a highlight of Dakhla! Highly Recommended!


Video:

Cruising south through Western Sahara – from Laayoune to Dakhla by bus!


The White Dune

A view of a small lagoon which is surrounded by the sands of the White Dune.

A view of a small lagoon which is surrounded by the sands of the White Dune.

Reachable only by 4WD, along a sandy piste cutting across the Sahara Desert, the White Dune rises up from the surrounding brown sand desert, like a shiny beacon.

Views of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune.

Views of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune.

The white-sand dune, which is surrounded by the ocean at high tide, stands in stark contrast against the blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the brown sand of the surrounding desert.

Views of the lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune, a highlight of Dakhla.

Views of the lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the White Dune, a highlight of Dakhla.

Porto Rico Beach

A panoramic view of Porto Rico Beach, with its abandoned Spanish-era lighthouse.

A panoramic view of Porto Rico Beach, with its abandoned Spanish-era lighthouse.

About sixty kilometres south of Dakhla, on the road to Mauritania, Porto Rico Beach is a beautiful Sahara Desert beach of white sand and crystal-clear water.

An abandoned Spanish-era lighthouse overlooks Porto Rico Beach.

An abandoned Spanish-era lighthouse overlooks Porto Rico Beach.

Overlooked by an abandoned, Spanish-era lighthouse, this long, pristine beach is located a few kilometres north of the Tropic of Cancer.

The cliffs which line Porto Rico Beach are made of chalk deposits.

The cliffs which line Porto Rico Beach are made of chalk deposits.

The geology-geek in me was excited to see that the cliffs which line the beach at Porto Rico Beach are made of chalk deposits.

Chalk is a fine-textured, earthy type of limestone distinguished by its light colour, softness, and high porosity. It is composed mostly of tiny fragments of the calcite shells or skeletons of plankton.

Almost in the tropics - a view of the stunningly isolated Porto Rico Beach.

Almost in the tropics – a view of the stunningly isolated Porto Rico Beach.

Imlili Oasis

The 'Sebkha of Imlili' are permanent, isolated, pools of hypersaline water which were formed during the Holocene epoch (11,700 years ago). 

The ‘Sebkha of Imlili’ are permanent, isolated, pools of hypersaline water which were formed during the Holocene epoch (11,700 years ago).

Located in a remote corner of the Sahara Desert, about 100 km south of Dakhla, totally off-piste, and accessible only with a local guide in a 4WD, the Sebkha of Imlili (‘Sebkha‘ translates as a salt-water depression) are permanent pools of hypersaline water which were formed during the Holocene epoch (11,700 years ago).

One giant 'fish spa' - the salt water pools at Imlili are inhabited by voracious, carnivorous fish who love eating dead skin.

One giant ‘fish spa’ – the salt water pools at Imlili are inhabited by voracious, carnivorous fish who love eating dead skin.

What makes these pools truly unique are the many small, carnivorous fish which inhabit them – totally cutoff from any other water source.

These fish are of one single species – Coptodon guineensis.

Trapped in these isolated pools for thousands of years, the fish at Imlili are considered to be relics of the past.

Trapped in these isolated pools for thousands of years, the fish at Imlili are considered to be relics of the past.

It is believed that the fish have existed in these isolated pools ever since they were trapped there during the Holocene epoch, after the Green Sahara period.

These aquatic animals are considered to be relics of the past.

The only way to reach the very remote Imlili oasis is with a knowledgeable local guide in a 4WD vehicle.

The only way to reach the very remote Imlili oasis is with a knowledgeable local guide in a 4WD vehicle.

One of the more unusual characteristics of Coptodon guineensis is that they are carnivorous.

For tourists wishing to experience a natural ‘fish spa‘, you can dip your feet into the pools and let the fish nibble on dead skin, calluses or anything else.


Note:

It’s important to note that if you have any open wounds, you should not expose them to the voracious fish, who will only make the wound bigger. 

It’s also important to be aware that water conditions are not conducive to care due to the fact that it is stagnant. 


'Me and Mini-Me' - a mother and baby camel with very similar markings - near Imlili.

‘Me and Mini-Me’ – a mother and baby camel with very similar markings – near Imlili.

Accommodation

Laayoune

My comfortable and spacious room at the Sahara Line Hotel in Laayoune.

My comfortable and spacious room at the Sahara Line Hotel in Laayoune.

While in Laayoune, I stayed at the very good Sahara Line Hotel which is located in the city centre, a short walk from all the sights.

From the friendly, welcoming staff, to my spacious and comfortable room and the very good breakfast (served during Ramadan), this hotel serves as an ideal base for anyone visiting Laayoune.

My room at the Sahara Line Hotel included a sunny sitting room.

My room at the Sahara Line Hotel included a sunny sitting room.

Rates on booking.com start from €50 per night.

If this pleasant hotel wasn’t enough, as a final act of kindness, the manager drove me in her car to the bus station, without charge.

Highly recommended!

Dakhla

Part of my sprawling room at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

Part of my sprawling room at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

While in Dakhla, I stayed at the charmingly traditional Dar Rio Oro guest house which is a family-owned guest house which overlooks the sea in downtown Dakhla.

Built in a traditional Moroccan-style, over a period of 2 years, by the French owners, Dar Rio Oro features two spacious rooms on each floor with a common dining/ sitting room on the 5th floor.

A rooftop terrace on the 6th floor offers more rooms and a terrace with panoramic views.

For those with mobility issues, there is no elevator in the building – just stairs.

During my stay, Madame Fatima (the wife) was taking care of the property while her husband was away in France.

The sitting room in my room at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

The sitting room in my room at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

Fatima is very attentive and a font of information, although her English is limited.

Her children and pets (a cat and dog) were normally in the communal living room, giving the whole place the feeling of a family home rather than a hotel.

A highlight of my stay was a day trip with Sidi (the neighbour) who took me in his 4WD into the desert to see some of the spectacular sights which surround Dakhla.

I shared his spacious 4WD with three French travellers with each of us paying €60 for a full day of sightseeing. This tour is highly recommended!   

The view, from one of my balconies, at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

The view, from one of my balconies, at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

As for the rooms, the interior concrete walls are at least 20-cm thick which ensures the rooms are wonderfully silent, although the thick walls can interfere with WiFi signal.

My room contained a large bedroom with 3 beds, a kitchen, a living room, a large bathroom and two balconies.

A dinner of camel couscous and vegetables, served one evening at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

A dinner of camel couscous and vegetables, served one evening at the Dar Rio Oro guest house in Dakhla.

Breakfast is served each morning in the communal dining room, which offers a balcony with a view over the adjacent fort and the sea.

One evening, Fatima prepared a traditional camel couscous with chickpeas and vegetables. Delicious!

Besides camel couscous, Fatima also offers free transfers to/ from the airport or bus station.

Rates on booking.com start from €77 per night.

Eating Out

Laayoune

Restaurant Gardenia 

The popular 'Gardenia' is rated as the best restaurant in Laayoune on TripAdvisor.

The popular ‘Gardenia’ is rated as the best restaurant in Laayoune on TripAdvisor.

One excellent restaurant in Laayoune is Restaurant Gardenia which is rated as the #1 restaurant in Laayoune by TripAdvisor.

A clean, modern restaurant which is staffed by professional, attentive wait staff, Gardenia offers a range of cuisines from Moroccan, Italian, International and even Japanese.

While I chose to eat steak, I was also tempted by the delicious-looking sushi.

Highly recommended!

McDonald’s

Laayoune boasts the last McDonald's in Africa - before crossing the Sahara Desert into sub-Sahara Africa.

Laayoune boasts the last McDonald’s in Africa – before crossing the Sahara Desert into sub-Sahara Africa.

I have never before featured McDonald’s in any of my travel guides and I cannot claim to be a fan.

However, the newly opened branch of McDonald’s in Laayoune deserves a special mention as being the last McDonald’s in Africa before you cross the Sahara Desert into sub-Sahara Africa.

There are no McDonald’s restaurants in sub-Sahara Africa, with the next McDonald’s being in South Africa.

That’s a long way between Big Macs!

Dakhla

My Octopus Restaurant

An exquisite fish dish, served at <i>My Octopus</i> restaurant in Dakhla.

An exquisite fish dish, served at My Octopus restaurant in Dakhla.

While there are many restaurants to choose from in Dakhla, there is really only one establishment which has elevated the local dining and culinary scene – My Octopus.

Located on the waterfront, on Ave. Mohamed V, this popular restaurant serves amazingly fresh local fish and seafood which is all very beautifully presented.

A delicious desert, served at <i>My Octopus</i> restaurant in Dakhla.

A delicious desert, served at My Octopus restaurant in Dakhla.

… the best desserts in the desert!

Also worth trying are their desserts. These are the best desserts in the desert!

Visa Requirements

Morocco/ Western Sahara

My Moroccan passport stamps.

My Moroccan passport stamps.

Since Western Sahara is considered, by the Moroccans, to be a part of Morocco, the Visa Policy of Morocco applies.

The Visa Policy Map of Morocco - countries in dark green enjoy visa-free access for 90 days.<br />source: Wikipedia

The Visa Policy Map of Morocco – countries in dark green enjoy visa-free access for 90 days.
Source: Wikipedia

Many nationalities enjoy, 90-day, visa-free access to Morocco, as indicated on the above map.

Entering Western Sahara

It’s important to note that there are no formal borders between Morocco and Western Sahara as the Moroccans consider all of this territory to be Moroccan.

When travelling by land from Morocco into Western Sahara, there are no borders, no extra passport stamps, no checks whatsoever.

I travelled on a night bus from Agadir to Laayoune. I fell asleep somewhere in Morocco and woke up the next day in Western Sahara. A very relaxed and pleasant journey.

If your first entry into Morocco is through a port in Western Sahara, such as Laayoune or Dakhla airport or over the Mauritanian/ Moroccan land border, you will receive a Moroccan entry stamp.

Mauritania

My Mauritanian Visa-on-arrival (VOA) which was issued at the Morocco/ Mauritanian land border.

My Mauritanian Visa-on-arrival (VOA) which was issued at the Morocco/ Mauritanian land border.

For those travelling overland into Mauritania, almost everyone (grey counties on the map below) requires a visa.

These are issued, without fuss, on land borders or at Nouakchott International Airport.

Visa policy map of Mauritania.

Visa policy map of Mauritania.
Source: Wikipedia

My Mauritanian Visa-on-Arrival (VOA) was issued in 20-minutes at the land border between Western Sahara (Morocco) and Mauritania.

Valid for a stay of 30-days, a single-entry visa costs €55 which must be paid in euro cash (only banknotes accepted).


Tip:

As is typical of sub-Sahara African countries, the bureaucratic process for entering the country can be vexing.

Getting my VOA was a 7-step process with different people in six different (unmarked) offices, in two different buildings, tasked with doing something.    

When I arrived at the border, the driver of my minibus was smart enough to hand me over to a ‘fixer’ who quickly sped me through a process which could potentially take much time. 

The fixer knew all the steps to follow and knew all the staff and enjoyed a priority service. 

At one stage, I met a lone Italian traveller who had been stuck at the border for some time, and was clearly flustered, since he was trying to pay for his visa with a mix of euro banknotes and coins. However, only banknotes are accepted.

Since I had plenty of euro banknotes, I exchanged his coins for a €20 note, which allowed him to then receive his visa. 

In the end, I paid my fixer €5 for what was a fast-track service. 

I highly recommended paying a small fee for a fixer to provide you with a fast-track service! 


Getting There

Supratours provide regular, daily, connections between northern Morocco, Western Sahara and the Mauritanian border.

Supratours provide regular, daily, connections between northern Morocco, Western Sahara and the Mauritanian border.

Air

There are two international airports serving Western Sahara:

One interesting back door into the region is offered by Binter Canarias, the airline of the Canary Islands.

From their base on the Canary Islands, Binter offer interesting connections to Western Sahara, Senegal, Cape Verde (click to read my travel guide), Mauritania, the Azores, Madeira, Spain, Portugal and beyond.

Meanwhile, Royal Air Maroc are one of the largest airlines in Africa, offering connections to many cities in Europe and sub-Sahara Africa from their base in Casablanca.

Laayoune Airport

The following airlines fly to/ from Laayoune International Airport:

Dakhla Airport 

The following airlines fly to/ from Dakhla International Airport:

Land

A promotion by Supratours, for their daily bus connection from Morocco to Mauritania.

A promotion by Supratours, for their daily bus connection from Morocco to Mauritania.

Morocco

Laayoune bus station ('Gare Routiere' in French).

Laayoune bus station (‘Gare Routiere’ in French).

Buses

Both CTM and Supratours offer comfortable and reliable daily bus connections between Western Sahara and northern Morocco.

Both CTM and Supratours offer comfortable and reliable daily bus connections between Western Sahara and northern Morocco.

For those who prefer overland travel, regular daily buses connect various cities in northern Morocco with all cities in Western Sahara.

The two main bus companies which provide daily services from Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech and Agadir, south to Laayoune, Dakhla and onwards to the Mauritanian border are CTM and Supratours.

All bus journeys I made in Western Sahara were almost empty.

All bus journeys I made in Western Sahara were almost empty.

Both companies operate a fleet of large, comfortable, modern buses, with most services in Western Sahara being almost empty.


Schedule

Bus departures from Laayoune bus station.

Bus departures from Laayoune bus station.

From Marrakech

From Marrakech to Laayoune, CTM operate 7 buses per day with a journey time of 16 hours and a cost of 387 MAD.

Of these 7 buses, 2 continue down the coast on the epic voyage to Dakhla (24 hours/ 545 MAD).

From Agadir

From Agadir to Laayoune, CTM operate 11 buses per day with a journey time of 12 hours and a cost of 266 MAD.

Of these 11 buses, 4 continue down the coast to Dakhla (21 hours/ 455 MAD).

From Guerguerat (Moroccan/ Mauritanian border) 

From Guerguerat to Dakhla, CTM/ Supratours operate 1 bus per day which leaves the border at 4 pm, arriving 5 hours later in Dakhla (190 MAD).

All bookings can be made online!


One of the joys of travelling by bus in Morocco are the many refreshment stops at tea houses.

One of the joys of travelling by bus in Morocco are the many refreshment stops at tea houses.

In the case of the lonely trip to the Mauritanian frontier, the two companies consolidate the few passengers onto one bus in Dakhla.

I purchased a ticket from Supratours but rode on a CTM bus to the border.

My Supratours bus ticket from Laayoune to Dakhla, which cost 230 MAD.

My Supratours bus ticket from Laayoune to Dakhla, which cost 230 MAD.

There were maybe six people on the bus, and most alighted in small towns before the border.

Onwards to Mauritania

My bus ticket from Dakhla to Nouadhibou.

My bus ticket from Dakhla to Nouadhibou.

Buses

One daily bus, which is jointly operated by Supratours and CTM, connects Dakhla with the Moroccan/ Mauritanian land border which is located at Guerguerat, a small frontier post which lies 367 km (5 hours) south of Dakhla.

Bus tickets for Mauritania can be purchased from this office of Supratours in Dakhla.

Bus tickets for Mauritania can be purchased from this office of Supratours in Dakhla.

Tickets for the bus should be purchased at least a day in advance from the Supratours office which is located on Ave. Mohamed V in downtown Dakhla.

The bus departs from the front of the Supratours office each morning at 8 am.

It will also make a stop at the CTM office and Dakhla bus station before departing Dakhla for the 5-hour journey to the border.

The cost of a ticket to Nouadhibou is payable in two parts – 190 MAD for the trip to the border, then 100 MAD for the minibus ride from the border to Nouadhibou.

You can also purchase a combo-ticket from Dakhla to Nouakchott.

The Moroccan border post at Guerguerat.

The Moroccan border post at Guerguerat.

Once at the border, you exit Morocco through a clean, well-organised, efficient border facility and exit into a litter-strewn wasteland.

This is the narrow corridor of no-man’s land which belongs to Western Sahara but is totally unoccupied.


Tip: 

The only facilities at this frontier are on the Moroccan side of the border, where you’ll find a service station, a small guest house, restaurant and shop. 

There are no facilities in no-man’s land or on the Mauritanian border. 


The minibus from El Moussavir Plus company, waiting at the exit of the Moroccan border post.

The minibus from El Moussavir Plus company, waiting at the exit of the Moroccan border post.

After you proceed (by yourself) through the Moroccan border post, you’ll find the Mauritanian minibus, which is operated by El Moussavir Plus transport company, waiting for you outside the border exit gate.

It departs from the Moroccan border at 3 pm each day.

If you have purchased a combined ticket, the driver will already have your name and will collect your ticket.

If you do not have an onward ticket, you can negotiate a price with the driver.

I was the only passenger in the minibus.

The journey from the Mauritanian border to Nouadhibou is about 45 minutes.

Upon arrival in Nouadhibou, you will be dropped at the office of El Moussavir Plus which is on the outskirts of town.

From here, if you are staying in town, you will need to negotiate a ride in a shared taxi to your hotel.

Taxis in Mauritania are the most beat-up, old, dilapidated, Mercedes Benz motor cars. How they manage to continue to function defies the laws of physics.

Onward to Nouakchott

El Moussavir Plus operate daily minibuses to Nouakchott, which depart at 7 am each morning from their office, which is located on the outskirts of Nouadhibou.

The bus arrives in Nouakchott at around 1 pm.

It’s best to reserve your place on the bus at least one day before travel. Each bus has just 13 seats and my bus was fully booked.

Shared Taxis

Mauritanian license plate.

Mauritanian license plate.

Regular shared taxis connect Dakhla with Nouadhibou.

These are operated by Mauritanian drivers – just look for the Mauritanian license plated cars near the central market in Dakhla.

While I was waiting for the bus at the Supratours office in Dakhla, local Moroccan share-taxi drivers were stopping by to see if anyone was interested in riding in a shared taxi to the border, rather than taking the bus.

There seems to be plenty of transport options from Dakhla to the border early in the morning.

Getting Around

Road Distances

Road distance from Agadir to Laayoune.

Road distance from Agadir to Laayoune.

Highways throughout Morocco are, generally, in excellent condition, including the long, lonely stretch which winds its way along the empty coast of Western Sahara.


Table: Road distances between towns in Western Sahara. 

Agadir Laayoune Dakhla Nouadhibou
Agadir 641 km (398 mi) 1,171 km (728 mi) 1,522 km (945 mi)
Laayoune 641 km (398 mi) 530 km (330 mi) 881 km (547 mi)
Dakhla 1,171 km (728 mi) 530 km (330 mi) 351 km (217 mi)
Nouadhibou 1,522 km (945 mi) 881 km (547 mi) 351 km (217 mi)

Once you cross the border into Mauritania, you have officially entered West Africa where the infrastructure is typical of West African countries – i.e. fairly bad with poorly maintained, pot-holed, bumpy roads most of the way south to Nouakchott.

Road distance from Agadir to Dakhla. Road distance from Agadir to Dakhla.

Road distance from Agadir to Dakhla.

While the Moroccan government understands the benefit of well-maintained infrastructure, the Mauritanian government does not!

Road distance from Agadir to Nouadhibou.

Road distance from Agadir to Nouadhibou.

Buses

As mentioned in the previous section, both CTM and Supratours provide frequent, comfortable, bus connections between all the towns throughout Western Sahara and onward to northern Morocco.

Taxi

The most popular form of public transport within towns in Western Sahara are shared taxis which can be hailed from anywhere.

A seat in a shared taxi costs between 5-10 MAD.

Rental Car

Plenty of rental car companies can be found in Laayoune and Dakhla.

The average price of a small car rental in Morocco is US$25 per day.


That’s the end of my travel guide for Western Sahara.

If you wish to leave any comments or contact me, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Following is a list of my travel content from the region:

Somaliland Photo Gallery

Restaurant sign in Hargeisa.

Somaliland Photo Gallery

This is a Somaliland Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Somaliland Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Somaliland Travel Guide

A Somali woman, in the central market in downtown Hargeisa.

Somaliland Travel Guide

This is a Somaliland Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: April 2023

Introduction

I have long had the dream to travel overland from Djibouti City to Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland. I admit, my dreams are a little bizarre and often end up placing me in enduring situations.

While on a recent trip to Djibouti, I decided to realise this travel dream…

Overland from Djibouti to Somaliland 


Video: Goats on the road in Somaliland.


I’ve always said “Plain sailing is plain boring!“.

When it comes to travel journeys, those that are most vivid in my memory are ones which were painful, enduring, uncomfortable, eventful, and even somewhat tortuous!

The sort of journeys, that, while you are in the middle of them, you just want to escape from!

Of all the flights I’ve ever taken, I remember very few, because they were normally smooth, easy and uneventful.

The smooth journeys – i.e., plain sailing – tend to be unmemorable, while the painful journeys burn brightest in our memories, a reward for the suffering we experienced.

On the road, 5 AM somewhere in the middle of the Somaliland desert.

On the road, 5 AM somewhere in the middle of the Somaliland desert.

One such memorable journey is offered in the form of the nightly 4WD taxis which connect Djibouti City to Hargeisa – a journey of 410 km, almost entirely along desert tracks, a seemingly never-ending, 17-hour, marathon journey.

I have provided full coverage of this ordeal in the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

As for Somaliland, in 1991, it declared itself independent from a troublesome Somalia. However, the nations of the world were not willing to recognise its independence and, as of 2023, no country recognises the independence of Somaliland.

However, as I’ve outlined in the ‘History of Somaliland‘ section below, up until 1960, Somaliland existed as its own state, albeit controlled by the British, and known as British Somaliland.

It was only in 1960 that the British, who had recently won control of Italian Somaliland (present-day Somalia) decided to unite the two Somaliland’s into the Republic of Somalia.

Following years of civil war in Somalia, the political leaders in Somaliland, in 1991, declared independence. They simply wanted to go back to their pre-1960 living arrangement.

However, the international community isn’t onboard and wants the two regions to reunite.

Despite not being internationally recognised as an independent country, Somaliland has a functional government, established institutions, and a growing economy.

One unlikely tourist attraction in Hargeisa are the money changers in the central market.

One unlikely tourist attraction in Hargeisa are the money changers in the central market.

Somaliland is known for its rich culture, history, and natural beauty, including stunning coastlines, rugged mountains, and ancient rock art sites.

The Somali’s are very friendly and welcoming and the country is very safe. Never did I feel threatened or in danger (except for the reckless driving through the desert).

While Somaliland has faced challenges such as droughts, poverty, and political instability, it remains an intriguing destination for adventurous, intrepid, travellers seeking to discover a unique and lesser-known part of the world.

The government is keen to encourage tourism and I was made to always feel welcome! Highly recommended!

Location

Hargeisa, Somalia

 

Somaliland is located in the Horn of Africa, in the eastern part of the continent. Its coastline faces the Gulf of Aden to the north and the east. Overall, Somaliland’s location is strategic, as it lies at the intersection of key trade routes and is a gateway to the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean.

Somaliland borders Djibouti to the northwest, Ethiopia to the west, and Somalia to the east and south. The capital city of Somaliland is Hargeisa, which is located in the northwestern interior part of the country.

The country covers an area of approximately 137,600 square kilometres (53,100 square miles), making it slightly larger than England.

History of Somaliland

A map showing the former colonial Somaliland's. <br><i>Source: Wikipedia

A map showing the former colonial Somaliland’s.
Source: Wikipedia

The region of Somaliland was originally known by the ancient Egyptians as the “Land of Punt”. It was known for its medieval port cities from which gums, resins, ostrich feathers, and slaves were exported. These ports, such as modern-day Berber, flourished between the 7th and the 12th century CE.

When the European nations began to partition Africa among themselves in the late 19th century, France already possessed (from 1862) a coaling station at Obock (present-day Djibouti) near the mouth of the Red Sea.

By the end of the 1880s, France had expanded its holdings to the area of present-day Djibouti, Britain had established a protectorate over the north coast, opposite its base at Aden (Yemen), and Italy controlled the remainder of the region (present-day Somalia).

These regions were known (from west to east) as French Somaliland, British Somaliland and Italian Somaliland.

Following Italy’s defeat during WWII, the British won control of Italian Somaliland.

In 1960, the British colonial authorities united British and Italian Somaliland to form the independent Republic of Somalia.

French Somaliland became independent as the Republic of Djibouti in 1977.


Did You Know?

A map, showing the five colonial Guianas in South America.

A map, showing the five colonial Guianas in South America.

Just as the colonial powers had three Somaliland’s in Africa, they also had five Guiana’s in South America.

The five Guiana’s were located on the north-east coast of South America and were bound between the mouths of two important rivers – the Orinoco River in Venezuela (which defined the western limit of the Guiana’s) and the mouth of the Amazon River in Brazil (which defined the eastern limit).

The five Guiana’s were (from west to east):

  • Spanish Guiana – now the Guayana region of Venezuela
  • British Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Guyana
  • Dutch Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Suriname
  • French Guiana – still called French Guiana but known to the French as ‘Guyane
  • Portuguese Guiana – now the Brazilian state of Amapa

You can read more about the Guiana’s in my Brazil and Guiana’s Travel Guide.

Other taste2travel guides for the Guiana’s include: 


Independent Somaliland

Following the civil war that began in Somalia in the 1980s and the subsequent overthrow of that country’s government in 1991, a government opposition group, the Somali National Movement, secured the region comprising the former British Somaliland.

In May 1991 they announced that the 1960 federation was no longer valid and declared their region to be an independent state, henceforth to be known as the Republic of Somaliland.

Though not internationally recognised, Somaliland experienced relative stability, a sharp contrast to the civil war that continued to engulf Somalia.

Taking advantage of that stability, the Somaliland government was able to rebuild much of the region’s infrastructure, which had been damaged by years of warfare.

In 2001, 10 years after breaking away from Somalia, Somaliland still was not internationally recognised as an independent country.

Undeterred, the government held a referendum that year, the results of which clearly showed that Somaliland’s inhabitants supported the region’s claim of independence.

As it had in the past, in 2003 the Somaliland government rejected invitations to participate in peace talks aimed at reunifying Somalia, maintaining that its independent status precluded it from being a party to such discussions.

As of 2023, no foreign power recognises Somaliland’s sovereignty!

Ongoing Fighting

Most recently, clan elders in the eastern region of Sool, which borders Somalia’s semi-autonomous Puntland state, have expressed a desire to reunite with Somalia.

In February of 2023, heavy fighting broke out between Somaliland forces and militiamen in and around the town of Las Anod, the administrative centre of the Sool region.

Despite a cease fire being brokered at the time, intermittent clashes have occurred between Somaliland forces and militiamen and the issue remains unresolved.

People

A friendly Somali in Hargeisa.

A friendly Somali in Hargeisa.

The people of Somaliland are primarily ethnic Somali, with a few minority groups such as the Arab, Bantu, and Ethiopian Somali communities.

The Somali people in Somaliland are divided into various clans, which play a significant role in their society and culture. The largest clans in Somaliland include the Isaaq, Dir, and Darod clans.

The Isaaq clan is the dominant clan in Somaliland and holds political power in the region. The majority of the people in Somaliland practice Sunni Islam and the religion plays a significant role in their daily lives. Compared to neighbouring Djibouti, the brand of Islam in Somaliland is much stricter.

Family and community are highly valued in Somaliland, and there is a strong sense of community and social responsibility.

Somalilanders are known for their resilience and determination, having endured many years of conflict, poverty, and drought. Despite the challenges they have faced, Somalilanders remain proud of their cultural heritage and continue to strive for progress and development.

Flag

The flag of Somaliland.

The flag of Somaliland.

The flag of Somaliland consists of three equal horizontal stripes of green, white, and red. In the centre of the white stripe, there is a black star.

The green stripe represents the region’s vegetation and agriculture, while the white stripe represents peace and purity. The red stripe symbolizes the blood shed by the people in their struggle for independence. The black star represents the Somali people.

The flag of Somaliland, flying in front of a wall of Somaliland shillings, at a money exchange in Hargeisa.

The flag of Somaliland, flying in front of a wall of Somaliland shillings, at a money exchange in Hargeisa.

The flag was adopted on October 14, 1996, after Somaliland declared independence from Somalia in 1991. The flag is a powerful symbol of the region’s identity and sovereignty.

Currency

The currency of Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling, whose bank notes are normally old, dusty, dirty and musty in smell.

The currency of Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling, whose bank notes are normally old, dusty, dirty and musty in smell.

The currency of Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling (SLSH), which is not internationally recognised, and as such, not exchangeable outside of the country.

The Somaliland shilling was introduced in 1994 as a replacement for the Somali shilling, which was no longer being issued in Somaliland due to political instability and currency devaluation.

The Somaliland shilling is rarely used by the Somali's, who prefer digital payment platforms instead.

The Somaliland shilling is rarely used by the Somali’s, who prefer digital payment platforms instead.

The Somaliland shilling is issued by the Central Bank of Somaliland (Baanka Somaliland) and comes in denominations of 500, 1000 and 5000.

Exchange Rate

Travellers to Somaliland are advised to bring US dollars or euros and exchange them for Somaliland shillings locally.

At the time of my visit (April 2023) the exchange rate against the US dollar was:

US$1 = 8,500 SLSH

Unlike in neighbouring Ethiopia or Eritrea, there is no official / unofficial money market in Somaliland. Money can be exchanged freely, on the street.

The main place to exchange money is with the numerous money changers in Hargeisa central market (see the ‘Money Exchange Marketsection below).

Digital Payments

A fruit stand in Hargeisa market displays a telephone number where digital payments can be sent.

A fruit stand in Hargeisa market displays a telephone number where digital payments can be sent.

With the highest denomination bank note of 5,000 SLSH currently worth just US$0.58, most locals prefer to make payments using digital payment services, rather than carrying around bricks of dirty, dusty, musty-smelling bank notes.

Everyone, from market stall owners, to beggars in the street, display phone numbers where digital payments can be sent.

Money Exchange Market

A money changer in Hargeisa central market.

A money changer in Hargeisa central market.

There are numerous money changers which sit in one area of the sprawling central market in Hargeisa. If you are looking for them, anyone can point you in the right direction.

Money, money, money! The red notes (1,000 shillings) are each worth USD$0.11, while the green notes (5,000 shillings) are worth US$0.58.

Money, money, money! The red notes (1,000 shillings) are each worth USD$0.11, while the green notes (5,000 shillings) are worth US$0.58.

The money changers can be found perched behind money walls, which are made from bricks of 1,000 and 5,000 shilling bank notes. These wads are secured in place with high-tech, flimsy, tennis nets.

It's strange to hand over one crisp USD bank note and receive a wad of dirty, musty-smelling Somaliland shillings in return.

It’s strange to hand over one crisp USD bank note and receive a wad of dirty, musty-smelling Somaliland shillings in return.

The money changers accept a variety of hard currencies, with USD or Euro preferred. It’s all very informal and many other currencies are accepted. These guys are the ultimate currency collectors!

A money changer, retrieving a wad of 1,000 uncirculated bank notes from his safe box.

A money changer, retrieving a wad of 1,000 uncirculated bank notes from his safe box.

Out of curiosity, I asked one money changer if he had any uncirculated notes, since I hadn’t seen any new notes in Somaliland.

Straight from the Central Bank - an impressive wad of one thousand, uncirculated, 5,000 shilling bank notes - worth US$588.

Straight from the Central Bank – an impressive wad of one thousand, uncirculated, 5,000 shilling bank notes – worth US$588.

He reached into his safe box and produced a wrapped packet of one thousand, uncirculated, 5,000 shilling bank notes – worth 5,000,000 shillings (US$588).

Money changers in Hargeisa central market.

Money changers in Hargeisa central market.

It’s strange to see tennis netting being used to secure wads of cash – only in Somaliland.

In a country where bank notes are near worthless, most locals have no desire to carry wads of cash.

In a country where bank notes are near worthless, most locals have no desire to carry wads of cash.

The money exchange market also speaks to how safe Somaliland is as a travel destination. There is no fear of robbery in Hargeisa. I felt completely safe at all times while in Somaliland.

Even the money changers have abandoned cash, with all of them displaying telephone numbers where digital payments can be made.

Even the money changers have abandoned cash, with all of them displaying telephone numbers where digital payments can be made.

This open display of large sums of unsecured cash on the streets of Hargeisa reminded me of similar scenes I witnessed in Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan (click to read my guides for these destinations).

On the streets of Sulaymaniyah, Erbil and Baghdad, money changers displayed wads of USD cash and other currencies, all of which were completely unsecured. There too, crime rates are very low.

It’s ironic that the city streets in former conflict zones, such as Iraq and Somaliland, are safer than the streets of European or North American cities, yet governments from western countries classify places such as Iraq and Somaliland as ‘High Risk / Do not Travel‘.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are rarely accepted in Somaliland.

However, as per the following section, you can use your credit card to withdraw USD cash from ATMs in Hargeisa.

ATMs

This ATM from Premier Bank which only dispensed USD cash, and was located in the lobby of my hotel, the Maamuus Hotel.

This ATM from Premier Bank, which only dispensed USD cash, and was located in the lobby of my hotel, the Maamuus Hotel.

ATMs, which only dispense USD cash, are available in Hargeisa and accept all major credit cards such as Visa and Mastercard. The ATMs are also on the Cirrus and Maestro networks.

The ATMs charge an additional 4% fee for their service.

One ATM from Premier Bank was located in the lobby of my hotel, the Maamuus Hotel.

My hotel room cost me US$20 per night with payment accepted only in USD cash. When I needed to pay, I simply withdrew USD cash from the ATM and handed it to reception staff. Easy!

Money Matters

In terms of hard currency, (i.e., USD cash), travelling in the Horn of Africa can be problematic. In countries such as Ethiopia and Eritrea, the purchase of hard currency is illegal, yet many payments (visa’s etc.) need to be made in USD cash.

If travelling to Eritrea (click to read my guide), you will need to carry enough USD cash to cover all expenses since credit cards are not accepted anywhere.

If travelling in Ethiopia, you can affectively halve all costs by changing USD cash “unofficially”.

Officially in Ethiopia, USD$100 = 5,400 ETB, while on the black market, USD$100 = 10,000 ETB (as of March 2023).

Unofficial transactions should never be conducted on the street, but in a safe, secure, indoor environment, such as a hotel lobby.

If you are travelling to Ethiopia after Somaliland, you should stock up on USD cash before you leave Hargeisa – but you should also read the following warning.


Warning: Carrying USD cash into Ethiopia

If you are planning to travel overland into Ethiopia from Hargeisa, you should be warned that Ethiopian customs have very rigorous checkpoints on the side of the road between the border town of Wajale and Jijiga. 

I passed through at least two such checkpoints between Wajale and Jijiga and then one more checkpoint between Jijiga and the city of Harar.

At these checkpoints, you are required to present all of your belongings for a thorough inspection.

Prior to your belongings being inspected, you will undergo a rough, body frisking. The guards were always looking for money, which they seize, and then extract bribes in order to return (most) of the money.

Even if you have a concealed money belt, they will find this during the pat-down. 

One guard tried to rip my wallet, which contained USD cash, out my hands but I wouldn’t let go. If locals tried such a thing they could be arrested.

If you are carrying USD cash, and you don’t want some guard hassling you for a bribe, it’s best to hide your cash in your shoes. They never look there!

It should be noted that Ethiopian law requires anyone entering Ethiopia via a land border to declare any cash exceeding USD$500 (or the equivalent in other foreign currency).

These controls exist because Ethiopia has a closed economy and the Ethiopian Birr, is weak and is unofficially worth twice as much as the official rate. 

As for my luggage – I carry a camera bag, laptop bag and a travel bag. All three bags were thoroughly pulled apart, with every single compartment checked, every bit of camera equipment, and other electronic item, inspected.

The authorities were especially looking for drones. It seems these are banned in Ethiopia. They were always suspicious of my Canon camera and my three lenses and always referred me to a superior officer for further inspection.  

The guards are rough, rude, disrespectful and have no regard for your belongings.       


Costs

Coffee menu (prices in USD) at Café Barbera in Hargeisa, the finest café in Hargeisa.

Coffee menu (prices in USD) at Café Barbera in Hargeisa, the finest café in Hargeisa.

Somaliland is a cheap travel destination which will be agreeable for even the most frugal of travellers.

I stayed in a comfortable hotel in Hargeisa which cost me just US$20 per night. A real bargain!

SIM Cards

There is just one telco in Somaliland – Telesom!

The company was established in 2002 by local entrepreneurs in Hargeisa and is today the leading provider of ICT services in Somaliland.

While waiting for 4 hours at the Djibouti / Somaliland border, the one thing I did was purchase a Telesom SIM card from a small kiosk.

The SIM card cost me just US$3 and included enough data to last for the entirety of my time in Somaliland.

The network coverage is especially impressive, with my phone receiving messages in the middle of the dessert, miles from anywhere!

Sightseeing

A map of Somaliland, at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

A map of Somaliland, at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

Somaliland is a region with a rich cultural heritage and natural beauty, although its tourism industry is still developing and permits are required when travelling into the countryside.

Tour Companies

Due to the challenges of travelling in Somaliland, a local tour company can make life easier when taking trips into the countryside. One company which was recommended by my hotel is Somaliland Travel.

I was quoted US$250 for the 47 km trip to Laas Geel, the sight of ancient cave paintings which date back to 9,000 BCE.

Due to the cost, I decided to pass on the trip.

Hargeisa

A view of downtown Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland.

A view of downtown Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland.

Hargeisa isn’t a city which offers many established tourist sights. Rather, this is a city which is best explored on foot, especially the large sprawling central market which covers most of the streets in the downtown area.

Hargeisa Central Market

Shoe shops are especially popular in Hargeisa Central market.

Shoe shops are especially popular in Hargeisa Central market.

A highlight of the central market are the numerous money changers, who sit behind walls of cash. Please refer to the previous ‘Money Exchange Marketsection for more on this.

Hargeisa Central Market sprawls throughout the side streets of downtown Hargeisa.

Hargeisa Central Market sprawls throughout the side streets of downtown Hargeisa.

Elsewhere, the market is home to shops selling everything imaginable from shoes, clothing, appliances, produce, and much more.

Hargeisa Central Market is the beating, chaotic, bustling heart of the capital.

Hargeisa Central Market is the beating, chaotic, bustling heart of the capital.

Hargeisa War Memorial 

The Hargeisa War Memorial features a MiG-17 fighter jet of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby.

The Hargeisa War Memorial features a MiG-17 fighter jet of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby.

The Hargeisa War Memorial is located in Hargeisa’s Freedom Square, which lies on the main street of Hargeisa.

The newly built memorial consists of a MiG-17 fighter jet of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby during an unprecedented bombing campaign in 1988.

During the campaign, Somali fighter jets simply departed from nearby Hargeisa airport, turned, then bombed the city, which was then the second largest city in Somalia. Once the bombs had stopped falling, 90% of the city lay in ruin.

Strangely, it seems the MiG-17 has been installed facing the wrong way, with the front of the jet facing the back of the monument.

Tank Sculpture

A tank sculpture in downtown Hargeisa.

A tank sculpture in downtown Hargeisa.

Located a short walk from the Hargeisa War Memorial is an interesting tank sculpture.

Eating Out

A restaurant in Hargeisa.

A restaurant in Hargeisa.

Cuisine 

Somaliland cuisine is flavourful and diverse, and it reflects the region’s unique cultural heritage.

Due to its location on the Red Sea, and its history as a centre for trade, Somaliland cuisine features a mix of African, Middle Eastern, and Indian influences.

Bread for sale at the central market in Hargeisa.

Bread for sale at the central market in Hargeisa.

One thing that differentiates Somaliland cuisine from its neighbours is that the ubiquitous regional staple – Enjera – features less in Somaliland.

The standard staple is either pasta, or rice, which is normally topped with a tomato-based meat stew.

Sambusa for sale in Hargeisa central market.

Sambusa for sale in Hargeisa central market.

One of the most popular local snack foods, Sambusa, isn’t at all local, but has been introduced from southern Asia, where it is known as Samosa.

Restaurants/ Cafes

Cafè Barbera

Located in downtown Hargeisa, Café Barbera is a popular café with local expats.

Located in downtown Hargeisa, Café Barbera is a popular café with local expats.

One of the more popular cafés/ restaurants in Hargeisa is Cafè Barbera which is part of a larger Italian café chain which operates cafes around the world.

The best coffee in Hargeisa is served at Café Barbera.

The best coffee in Hargeisa is served at Café Barbera.

Tucked away on the 1st floor of a downtown mall, Café Barbera specialises in Italian cuisine and serves the best coffee in town.

Bars

There are absolutely no bars in Somaliland, which is a strict Islamic country.

Accommodation

The perfectly adequate Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.

The perfectly adequate Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.

With a complete lack of international hotel brands, accommodation options in Somaliland have been built by locals and tend to be more basic with limited amenities.

While in Hargeisa, I stayed at the more than adequate Hotel Maamuus which is located on the main street, east of the centre.

My room at the Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.

My room at the Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.

The entire hotel complex, which includes a gym, restaurant and two accommodation blocks, is housed inside a secured compound.

I paid US$20 per night for a ‘Standard single‘. Other room categories, such as ‘Deluxe’ and ‘Suite’, include double beds.

To pay for my room, I simply withdrew USD cash from the ATM which is conveniently located in front of the reception desk.

Breakfast is normally available in the popular hotel restaurant, but, during my visit, this was closed due to Ramadan.

Visa Requirements

My visa for Somaliland, which was issued at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

My visa for Somaliland, which was issued at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

The visa policy of Somaliland is outlined on the Visa Section page of the Somaliland Immigration website.

Currently, citizens of the following countries are able to apply for a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA) at all Somaliland Ports of entry:

  • Bahrain
  • Brazil
  • Canada
  • China
  • Djibouti
  • Egypt
  • Ethiopia
  • EU Citizens
  • Kenya
  • Kuwait
  • Morocco
  • Oman
  • Qatar
  • Russia
  • Saudi Arabia
  • Somalia
  • South Africa
  • South Sudan
  • Sudan
  • Taiwan
  • Tunisia
  • Turkey
  • UAE
  • Uganda
  • USA

All other nationalities are required to apply for a visa in advance from a Somaliland mission.

The best places to apply are either Djibouti or Addis Ababa.

Somaliland Visas in Djibouti

The entrance of the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

The entrance of the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.

Somaliland tourist visas are issued without fuss at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti at a cost of US$60, which can be paid in USD of DJF.

The visa processing time is 24 hours, although the mission is closed on Friday and Saturday for the Islamic weekend. If you submit your application on a Thursday, you’ll have to wait until Sunday to receive your passport.

A display at the Somaliland mission in Djibouti.

A display at the Somaliland mission in Djibouti.

The very helpful staff member actually completed the application form for me and was happy that I had chosen to visit Somaliland. The government is keen to encourage tourism.

The mission is located in the Plateau du Serpent neighbourhood of Djibouti City. Most taxi drivers know the mission and should charge a fare of DJF 500 from downtown.


Note:

When you pay for your visa, you’ll be handed a receipt.

It was explained to me at the mission that you need to keep this receipt safe as immigration will ask for it upon entry and exit from Somaliland.

If you are unable to produce your receipt, you’ll be required to pay the visa fee again! 

When I exited from Somaliland, immigration kept the receipt. 


Getting There

Air

Hargeisa

Flights to Hargeisa arrive at Egal International Airport (IATA: HGA) which is located six kilometres southwest of downtown Hargeisa.

Named after Somaliland’s second president, Muhammad Haji Ibrahim Egal, the airport underwent major renovations in 2012–2013.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Egal International Airport: 

  • Air Arabia – flies to/ from Sharjah
  • African Express Airways – flies to/ from Berbera, Cairo, Dubai–International, Mogadishu, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta, Sharjah
  • Daallo Airlines – flies to/ from Djibouti, Dubai–International, Jeddah, Mogadishu
  • Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/ from Addis Ababa
  • flydubai – flies to/ from Dubai–International
  • Jubba Airways – flies to/ from Bosaso, Dubai–International, Jeddah, Mogadishu
  • Kenya Airways – flies to/ from Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta

Berbera

Additionally, Ethiopian Airlines operate international flights to Berbera International Airport (IATA: BBO).

Land

The land borders between Somaliland and Djibouti / Ethiopia are currently open.

Djibouti Border Crossing

Somaliland Toyota Land Cruisers at the Somaliland/ Djibouti border.

Somaliland Toyota Land Cruisers at the Somaliland/ Djibouti border.

The border between Djibouti and Somaliland is located in the Djibouti town of Loyada, which is a 20 to 30-minute drive from Djibouti City. The only section of sealed road on the entire trip is on the Djibouti side of the border.

Toyota Land Cruisers

My Toyota Land Cruiser 'taxi', getting ready to depart from Djibouti City.

My Toyota Land Cruiser ‘taxi’, getting ready to depart from Djibouti City.

Old, beat-up, Toyota Land Cruisers (1990’s models) shuttle daily between Djibouti City and Hargeisa.

These vehicles are well beyond their expiry date and are prone to constant breakdowns in the middle of the desert, in the middle of the night.

True workhorses, these vehicles have spent almost all of the lives bouncing along rough desert tracks.

Early morning view of the long and windy track which leads through the desert to Hargeisa.

Early morning view of the long and windy track which leads through the desert to Hargeisa.

Our vehicle broke down several times in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night.

The drivers are all expert mechanics, with our driver using bits of rags and plastic bags to fix our engine problems. Amazing to watch!

A rest stop, in a small town in the middle of nowhere, the only town we passed through during the entire journey.

A rest stop, in a small town in the middle of nowhere, the only town we passed through during the entire journey.

Also amazing are the stars in the night sky!

A breakdown provides a welcome break from the manic driving and blaring, non-stop music (noise).

It’s pitch black out there, and the night sky is truly dazzling.

Taking a break so my fellow passengers, all of whom were Muslims, could observe the sunrise pray.

Taking a break so my fellow passengers, all of whom were Muslims, could observe the sunrise pray.

Seat Prices

Each car carries up to 11 paying passengers.

The two seats up front, next to the driver, cost US$40, while the seats in the middle row (seats 4) cost US$30.

In the very rear, floor space costs less. On my trip, the rear section was occupied by a family of 4.

When bouncing for 17-hours along desert tracks, I recommend paying extra to ride up front next to the driver.

When bouncing for 17-hours along desert tracks, I recommend paying extra to ride up front next to the driver.

Since I was carrying my laptop bag and camera bag, plus a bag of breakable items which had been removed from my travel bag, I paid US$80 to have the two front seats. The driver seemed also to appreciate the extra space!

All fares are paid to the driver in cash (USD of DJF).

Leaving from Djibouti City

Somaliland 4WDs, waiting on Avenue 26 in Djibouti City.

Somaliland 4WDs, waiting on Avenue 26 in Djibouti City.

If leaving from Djibouti City, you’ll find the Somaliland 4WDs lined up each afternoon along the side of Avenue 26, which lies 2 km south of downtown Djibouti.

Every taxi driver in Djibouti City knows the location of the Somaliland taxis and should only charge you a fare of DJF 500 to deliver you there.

When you arrive, you’ll notice nothing is organised. There is no set taxi station, no office, not even a desk. Just a few people standing about.

Somaliland 4WD's on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.

Somaliland 4WD’s on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.

Rather, what you will see are clusters of Somaliland-registered Toyota Land Cruisers parked on the side of the road, with many being loaded up with bags of freight.


Video: Packing the 4WD for our trip from Djibouti City to Hargeisa, Somaliland.


The 4WD’s normally depart around 5pm, but the schedule depends on passengers. Once a car fills up, it departs. There are plenty of cars waiting around. I counted maybe 30 on the day I travelled.

A Somaliland 4WD, being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.

A Somaliland 4WD, being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.

The 410 km journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa takes about 17 hours.


Video: The road to the Djibouti/ Somaliland border post at Loyola.

The only comfortable part of the journey is the first 20km to the Djibouti/ Somaliland border, which is the only section of sealed road on the entire trip.


My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.

My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.

Tip:

Prior to your main bag (backpack) being strapped onto the roof of the 4WD, you should remove anything valuable or breakable, including all toiletries.

While on the roof, your bag will be crushed under the weight of boxes and other heavy items. Your bag will be walked on, stepped on, thrown around. It will be tied on so tightly that your bag will be contorted into a completely different shape.

When first loaded in Djibouti City, my Sojourn travel bag was placed on top of the load. At the border, it was repacked and moved to the bottom of the pile.

When first loaded in Djibouti City, my Sojourn travel bag was placed on top of the load. At the border, it was repacked and moved to the bottom of the pile.

I only left clothes and shoes in my bag and was glad I did. My bag was completely pummeled during the journey. 

I carried toiletries, and anything else which was breakable, in the cabin with me.   


Video: Leaving from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City, the start of a 17-hour journey to Hargeisa, Somaliland.


Border Crossing 

Upon arrival at the Djibouti border, which is in the coastal town of Loyada, I was told that I should carry all my valuables which were riding in the cabin with me. My main bag, which was secured on the roof, was to remain there.

My first view of Somaliland, at the border crossing.

My first view of Somaliland, at the border crossing.

It took me about 20 minutes to walk across the border, with immigration officials on both sides being friendly and relaxed. At no stage were any of my bags checked.

When I entered Somaliland, and as previously advised by the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti, immigration wanted to see my visa receipt.

After I had completed formalities, I asked immigration where I should wait for my 4WD, they simply pointed to the dusty road outside.

About 2 hours later, with the sun having set, I was still waiting on the side of the dusty road, with no sign of my 4WD, which had my main travel bag strapped to its roof – at least I hoped that was still the case.

After some time, I saw a crazy man running around yelling at different people – he looked familiar.

Yes – it was my driver. I was travelling with a crazy man!


Video: Night time driving through the desert of Somaliland. Most of the journey takes place at night! 


I asked him about the 4WD (and my bag) and he assured me that we would leave at 9pm. We had arrived at the border shortly after 5 pm!

He then found a plastic chair and asked me to sit and wait, before he sauntered off!

At 9pm, he re-appeared and asked me to follow him. He took me to a different 4WD which was already loaded up.

I checked to confirm that my bag was onboard and saw that my beautiful Osprey Sojourn Travel Bag was tied onto the roof, crushed under the weight of a heavy sack with the roof porters walking all over the bags, tying on rope to secure the load.


Tip: 

You should ensure that nothing valuable is left in anything placed onto the roof of the 4WD since you will be separated from your bag for about 4 hours during border formalities.

Travelling to Hargeisa


Video: The long and winding road to Hargeisa. 


The moment we sped off from the border crossing, it was clear that my driver was truly a crazy man!

He was driving like a reckless kamikaze! Foot flat to the floor, he launched us out into the darkness of the desert.

There are many goats on the road in Somaliland.

There are many goats on the road in Somaliland.

For the next 12 hours, with music constantly blaring, we raced at break-neck speeds along poorly defined tracks, with lights that hardly lit up the track ahead.

On more than one occasion, realising he had taken the wrong track, he made abrupt about-turns and doubled back to take a different track.


Video: Early morning driving through Somaliland.

Unlike the locals behind me, who were often yelling at the driver to slow down, I had full confidence in my driver since he never stopped consuming khat (or qat), which is the local stimulant of choice in the Horn of Africa.

Video: No shortage of goats on the road in Somaliland.

Khat, which is said to cause excitement and euphoria, is the drug of choice for all the drivers. It keeps them awake and buzzing! At around 4am, I suggested to him that he should stop and take a break.

He looked at me, with his glazed eyes, and said he will sleep once he reached Hargeisa.

Onward he sped…

Video: Yet more goats on the road in Somaliland. 


Arrival in Hargeisa

At around 10 am, we finally arrived in Hargeisa, pulling up outside the office of a transport company.

My Osprey travel bag joined me in the shower at my hotel. It survived to live another adventure.

My Osprey travel bag joined me in the shower at my hotel. It survived to live another adventure.

I was happy to climb into a waiting taxi, which spirited me away to the safety and comfort of the Hotel Maamuus and a much-needed shower – for me and my dusty Osprey travel bag.

Ethiopia Border Crossing

The border crossing between Ethiopia and Somaliland is located in the town of Wajale which lies about 100 km due west of Hargeisa. The journey time from Hargeisa to the border is about 2 hours, on a good quality, sealed road.

Along the way, there are five checkpoints which are manned by officials whose only real task is to extract bribes from the drivers of public service vehicles such as taxis and minibuses.

I organised for a private taxi to drive me from Hargeisa to the border for the usual fare of US$30.

By the time we had arrived at the border, the driver had handed out more than half of the fare in the form of bribes to corrupt officials. Such a shame!

At the time of my visit to Wajale, the road across the border was being completely rebuilt. The entire area was a muddy quagmire with everything dug up but no construction work to be seen anywhere.

From the Ethiopian side, frequent minibuses (400 birr) connect to the city of Jijiga. From there, frequent minibuses connect to the popular tourist destination of Harar (also 400 Birr).

I departed from Hargeisa at around 9 am and arrived in Harar around 4 pm.

Getting Around

Public transportation in Somaliland consists of taxis (both shared and private) and minibuses.

Taxis

Taxis are the most common form of public transportation in Somaliland. They are typically small, older vehicles that are privately owned and operated.

Fares are negotiable and often shared among passengers. Taxis around Hargeisa should cost US$1-2.

Minibuses

Minibuses are small vans that are used for public transportation in Somaliland. They are often overcrowded and uncomfortable, but they can be a more affordable option for longer trips.

Rental Car

There are a few rental car companies in Hargeisa, although local traffic conditions and the many checkpoints make independent driving a potential nightmare. It would be best to hire a car with a driver.

If you are determined to drive in Somaliland, you can contact Royal Car Rental in Hargeisa.


That’s the end of my Somaliland Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

You might be interested in reading my:

Northern Cyprus Photo Gallery

Bellapais Monastery is a highlight of Kyrenia.

Northern Cyprus Photo Gallery

This is a Northern Cyprus Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Northern Cyprus Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Northern Cyprus Travel Guide

Kyrenia castle guards the entrance to Kyrenia harbour.

Northern Cyprus Travel Guide

This is a Northern Cyprus Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: November 2021

Introduction

Often overlooked by the hordes of tourists which descend upon the modern, (Greek) Republic of Cyprus, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) is a much quieter backwater, a charming version of a more traditional Cyprus.

While the Republic of Cyprus receives an average of 4,000,000 visitors per year (mostly from Europe), TRNC receives around 1,000,000 visitors per year, with about 900,000 of those coming from Turkey.

A map of Cyprus which shows Northern Cyprus in yellow.

A map of Cyprus which shows Northern Cyprus in yellow.
Source: Nations Online Project.

Following intercommunal violence in 1974, which saw the Greek Cypriot majority fighting against the Turkish Cypriot minority, Turkey invaded Cyprus, annexing the top third of the island, creating a safe haven for Turkish Cypriots. After almost 50 years, this division remains, and shows no sign of ending anytime soon.

Separating the two sides is the UN Green Line – so named after the original dividing line was drawn on a map using a green pen.

The only country which recognises the TRNC is Turkey. Due to its lack of recognition, Northern Cyprus is heavily dependent on Turkey for economic, political and military support.

A view of Kyrenia port.

A view of Kyrenia port.

Not flush with funds itself, and facing its own financial issues, Turkey has provided minimal investment into Northern Cyprus since its invasion in 1974.

A makeshift barrier on the Greek side of the UN Green Line blocks a street in the old town of Nicosia.

A makeshift barrier on the Greek side of the UN Green Line blocks a street in the old town of Nicosia.

Meanwhile, across the UN Green Line, a much more confident, cosmopolitan and modern, Republic of Cyprus, joined the European Union on the 1st of May 2004.

Garden furniture outside a residential building in North Nicosia softens the effect of the steel wall of the UN Buffer zone.

Garden furniture outside a residential building in North Nicosia softens the effect of the steel wall of the UN Buffer zone.

At the time, the EU wanted a united Cyprus to join the Union. However, despite joining the EU as a de-facto divided island, the whole of Cyprus is considered EU territory, with Turkey as an occupier. EU law is suspended in areas where the Cypriot government (Government of the Republic) does not exercise effective control.

Membership of the EU, and generous EU subsidies, has allowed the Republic of Cyprus to develop at a much faster rate than the TRNC.

Passing through a UN Green Line checkpoint from the Greek to the Turkish side of the island is like passing through a worm-hole, transporting you from a modern, 21st century, 1st world experience to a 20th century, 2nd world experience.

A highlight of North Nicosia, Büyük Han is an Ottoman-era caravanserai which dates from 1572.

A highlight of North Nicosia, Büyük Han is an Ottoman-era caravanserai which dates from 1572.

Despite the differences TRNC is a charming destination, home to historic towns, medieval castles, vast archaeological sites, beautiful beaches and a capital city with a distinct Ottoman feel.

The use of the weaker Turkish lira as the official currency also makes the TRNC a much cheaper travel destination, compared to the more expensive Greek side of the island, which uses the Euro (€).


Important Note: 

If you enter TRNC from Turkey, you will not be able to cross the UN buffer zone into southern Cyprus, nor will you be able to depart from any airport in the south.

This is due to the fact that TRNC is not recognised by the international community and as such, entering Cyprus through TRNC is not recognised as a valid entry point.   

If you enter TRNC from Turkey, you will have to exit TRNC back to Turkey. 


Location

North Nicosia, Nicosia

 

Northern Cyprus occupies the top one third of the island of Cyprus, which is located in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea 75 kilometres (47 mi) south of Turkey and 97 kilometres (60.3 mi) west of Syria.

History

Overlooking the north coast of Cyprus, Kantara castle dates from the Byzantine period.

Overlooking the north coast of Cyprus, Kantara castle dates from the Byzantine period.

Famous as the mythical birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite, Cyprus was first settled by Mycenaean Greeks in the 2nd millennium BC.

Due to its location at the crossroads of many ancient empires, Cyprus was subsequently occupied by the Assyrians, Egyptians and Persians, from whom the island was seized in 333 BC by Alexander the Great.

Following in the footsteps of Alexander, Cyprus was occupied by the Egyptians, the Roman Empire, the Arab caliphates, and eventually by the Ottomans who ruled the island over three centuries between 1571 and 1878.

A view of the interior of Kumarcilar Han, an Ottoman-era caravanserai (inn), located in North Nicosia old town.

A view of the interior of Kumarcilar Han, an Ottoman-era caravanserai (inn), located in North Nicosia old town.

Prior to the Ottoman conquest of 1571, there were no Muslims living permanently on Cyprus. At the time of the Ottoman takeover, about 30,000 Turkish settlers were resettled on Cyprus.

During the years of Ottoman rule, the migration of Turkish (Muslim) settlers to Cyprus, from Anatolia (modern day Turkey), continued, forever changing the ethnic makeup of Cyprus and laying the seeds for the ethnic conflict which would eventually result in the island being divided.

An old 'GR' (George Royal) post box in Famagusta serves as a reminder of the British colonial period.

An old ‘GR’ (George Royal) post box in Famagusta serves as a reminder of the British colonial period.

Following the Ottoman period, Cyprus became a British colony. Known as British Cyprus, the island formed part of the British Empire from 1878 to the 16th of August, 1960 at which point the island became independent.

At the time of independence, Cyprus had a total population of 573,566; of whom 442,138 (77.1%) were Greeks, 104,320 (18.2%) Turks, and 27,108 (4.7%) were other nationalities.

A power-sharing arrangement between the Greek and Turkish sides quickly fell apart, resulting in legal impasses and discontent on both sides. Nationalist militants started training, with the military support of Greece and Turkey respectively.

Intercommunal violence erupted on the 21st of December 1963, when two Turkish Cypriots were killed at an incident involving the Greek Cypriot police. Intercommunal violence ensured and, in 1964, Turkey threatened to invade Cyprus in order to protect the Turkish minority.

An abandoned Greek Cypriot home in the Northern Cyprus village of Kantara.

An abandoned Greek Cypriot home in the Northern Cyprus village of Kantara.

On the 15th of July 1974, the Greek military junta carried out a coup d’état, to unite Cyprus with Greece.

Turkey then launched an invasion, seizing the top third of the island and creating the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) as a safe zone for Turkish Cypriots.

Now off limits, a former park on the city walls in North Nicosia is now part of the UN Buffer zone.

Now off limits, a former park on the city walls in North Nicosia is now part of the UN Buffer zone.

As a result of this action, Greek Cypriots who lived in the north of Cyprus, were forced to abandon their homes and relocate south of the dividing line, while Cypriot Turks in the south moved north.

People

At the time of partition in 1974, Turkish Cypriots, who lived all over Cyprus, were forced to relocate north of the UN Green Line into what is now Northern Cyprus. Many chose to leave Cyprus instead!

Likewise, Greek Cypriots, who lived throughout the island, were forced to relocated south of the UN Green Line. It’s estimated that 162,000 Greek Cypriots were forcibly evicted from their homes in the North by the invading force of the Turkish army.

This mass relocation resulted in many properties being abandoned. Today, these properties remain shuttered, and in legal limbo, ghostly reminders of an unresolved conflict.

Today, Northern Cyprus is home to more than 326,000 Turkish Cypriots, with 99% practicing Islam. However, much larger numbers live abroad with the diaspora found in countries such as Turkey (300,000), the United Kingdom (130,000), Australia (30,000) and Canada (6,000).

Flag

The flags of Turkey and Northern Cyprus inside the Saint Peter and Paul Church (Sinan Pasha Mosque) in Famagusta.

The flags of Turkey and Northern Cyprus inside the Saint Peter and Paul Church (Sinan Pasha Mosque) in Famagusta.

The flag of Northern Cyprus is based on the flag of Turkey, with the colours reversed and two additional horizontal red stripes at the top and bottom. Adopted in 1984, the stripes indicate Turkey (top) and Northern Cyprus (bottom).

Hanging from the balcony of a house in North Nicosia, the flag of Turkey always flies alongside the flag of Northern Cyprus.

Hanging from the balcony of a house in North Nicosia, the flag of Turkey always flies alongside the flag of Northern Cyprus.

Everywhere throughout the TRNC, the flag of Turkey flies alongside the flag of Northern Cyprus.

Located on the slopes of the Kyrenia Mountains, a giant flag of Northern Cyprus covers an area of four football fields, and is clearly visible from the Greek side of the island.

Located on the slopes of the Kyrenia Mountains, a giant flag of Northern Cyprus covers an area of four football fields, and is clearly visible from the Greek side of the island.

Even before you cross into Northern Cyprus, a TRNC flag looms large on the horizon, clearly visible from space and, more importantly for the TRNC government, from the Greek side of the island.

Located on the slopes of Mount Pentadaktylos (Turkish: Beşparmaklar Mountain), the highest point on the Kyrenia mountain range, a flag the size of four football fields can be seen from across the UN Green Line in Nicosia.

Illuminated at night, the flag was first lit up on Greek National Day on the 28th of October, 2003. Today, this massive flag is a permanent reminder of a divided island and considered a provocation by the Greek Cypriots.

Special teams from Turkey regularly bring in red and white dyes to maintain the flag, which appears next to a slogan from Kemal Ataturk, the founding father of modern Turkey: “How happy is he who calls himself a Turk!

Currency

The official currency of Northern Cyprus is the Turkish Lira.

The official currency of Northern Cyprus is the Turkish Lira.

The currency of Northern Cyprus is the Turkish Lira, although it should be the Euro!

Northern Cyprus is legally part of the EU, but EU law is suspended due to the north being under the control of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, which the EU does not recognise.

As a consequence, the currency of Turkey, the only state to recognise the TRNC, is the de-facto currency, although the Euro circulates freely.

The Turkish lira (international currency code: TRY, but usually abbreviated as TL) is the currency of Turkey and Northern Cyprus. One Turkish lira is subdivided into one hundred kurus.

All Turkish Lira banknotes feature the smiling face of Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey.

All Turkish Lira banknotes feature the smiling face of Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey.

In recent times, the lira has been weakening, which has resulted in cheaper prices for visitors, but increasing prices for locals.

Exchange Rates


Did you know? Due to the ever-weakening Turkish Lira, property leases in Northern Cyprus are often denominated in either US$, Euro (€) or Pound Sterling (£).

Of course, locals don’t have access to hard currencies and so must pay their rents in Turkish lira at the current (ever-weakening) exchange rate. Ouch!

Bad news for tenants, great news for landlords who receive ever-increasing rental income.


Shopping

The streets of downtown Kyrenia are lined with bottle shops which offer famous alcohol brands at bargain prices!

The streets of downtown Kyrenia are lined with bottle shops which offer famous alcohol brands at bargain prices!

Northern Cyprus is a shopper’s paradise, offering a range of international items at bargain prices.

The streets of downtown Kyrenia are lined with branded boutiques and scores of bottle shops which offer famous brands of alcohol at prices far below airport Duty Free shops.

A sign in a Burberry outlet in Kyrenia illustrates the conundrum which is TRNC!

A sign in a Burberry outlet in Kyrenia illustrates the conundrum which is TRNC!

How cheap is alcohol in Northern Cyprus? The following prices were being charged by bottle shops in Kyrenia at the time of my visit (November 2021):

Bottle Shop prices in Kyrenia, Northern Cyprus.

Bottle Shop prices in Kyrenia, Northern Cyprus.

  • Absolut Vodka 70 cl: 94 TL (US$6.77)
  • Bombay Sapphire Gin 70 cl: 150 TL (US$10.84)
  • Tanqueray Gin 70 cl: 180 TL (US$12.97)
  • Jack Daniels 70 cl: 170 TL (US$12.25)
  • Jack Daniels 1L: 220 TL (US$15.86)
  • Jim Bean 1.5L: 180 TL (US$12.97)
  • Olmeca Tequila Gold 1L: 215 TL (US$15.50)

Costs

A Litre of unleaded fuel in Northern Cyprus cost me 9.14 TL (€0.58)

A Litre of unleaded fuel in Northern Cyprus cost me 9.14 TL (€0.58)

With most things denominated in (the very weak) Turkish lira, costs in Northern Cyprus are much cheaper than in neighbouring Cyprus where Euro prices are much higher.

While shopping is a bargain; meals, drinks, fuel and almost everything else is much cheaper in TRNC. The two exceptions are hotel and car rental rates which are comparable to Cyprus.

Fuel prices are especially cheap in Northern Cyprus with a litre of unleaded petrol costing 9.14 TL (€0.58), while over the border in Cyprus, the same litre of fuel costs €1.32! No wonder many Greek Cypriots cross the border to refuel their cars.

Sample costs:

  • Meal (inexpensive Restaurant): 25 TL (€1.60)
  • Efes Beer (330-ml bottle): 6 TL (€0.38)
  • Cafe Latte at Mensure’s Coffee & Chocolate in Kyrenia: 23 TL (€1.47)
  • Chocolate dessert at Mensure’s Coffee & Chocolate in Kyrenia: 40 TL (€2.56)
  • Coca Cola (330-ml bottle): 7 TL (€0.45)
  • Water (330-ml bottle): 5 TL (€0.32)
  • Hotel room at the Sofia Boutique Hotel in Kyrenia: 860 TL (€55.00)
  • Rental Car (daily rate): 375 TL (€24.00)
  • Unleaded petrol (1 litre): 9.14 TL (€0.58)

A 70 cl bottle of Absolut Vodka for 94 TL (€6. 00)? Alcohol is especially cheap in Northern Cyprus!

A 70 cl bottle of Absolut Vodka for 94 TL (€6. 00)? Alcohol is especially cheap in Northern Cyprus!

Sightseeing

North Nicosia

Former medieval fortifications which were originally built to defend Nicosia are now used to divide the city.

Former medieval fortifications which were originally built to defend Nicosia are now used to divide the city.

Nicosia (Turkish: Lefkoşa) is the largest city, capital, and seat of government of Cyprus. It has the distinction of being the southeasternmost of all EU member states’ capitals.

The city has been continuously inhabited for over 4,500 years and has been the capital of Cyprus since the 10th century. Today North Nicosia is the capital of Northern Cyprus, a state recognized only by Turkey, that is considered to be occupied Cypriot territory by the international community.

UN Green Line

A view of the Greek side of the Ledra Palace crossing point in Nicosia.

A view of the Greek side of the Ledra Palace crossing point in Nicosia.

The Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities of Nicosia segregated into the south and north of the city respectively in early 1964, following the fighting of the Cyprus crisis of 1963–64 that broke out in the city.

Frozen in time, an abandoned building inside 'no-mans-land' still bears the scars of battle.

Frozen in time, an abandoned building inside ‘no-mans-land’ still bears the scars of battle.

This separation became a militarised border (UN Green Line) between the Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) after Turkey invaded the island in 1974, occupying the north of the island, including northern Nicosia.

Ottoman-era homes in North Nicosia overlook the medieval fortifications which now form part of the UN Buffer zone.

Ottoman-era homes in North Nicosia overlook the medieval fortifications which now form part of the UN Buffer zone.

At its heart, Nicosia old town is enclosed by a circular defensive wall which was built by the Venetians in the 16th century. With a circumference of 5 km (3 miles), the wall contains eleven pentagonal bastions.

The UN Green Line bisects this circular enclosure, with the Greek half of the old town to the south and the Turkish half to the north. The two main crossing points lie within the walled old town. Despite many attractions, the biggest tourist draw is the UN Green Line.

A map showing a divided Nicosia. <br><i>Source: BBC.

A map showing a divided Nicosia.
Source: BBC.

Despite its many attractions, the biggest tourist draw in Nicosia is the eerie UN Green Line – also known as the UN Buffer zone.

A sign in Nicosia old town warns against entering the UN Buffer zone.

A sign in Nicosia old town warns against entering the UN Buffer zone.

Within Nicosia, the UN Green Line is an almost total exclusion zone and is contained behind high walls, metal gates, barbed wire and concrete-filled oil drums.

A former residential building on the UN Buffer zone in Nicosia is boarded up to prevent unauthorised entry into the zone.

A former residential building on the UN Buffer zone in Nicosia is boarded up to prevent unauthorised entry into the zone.

The Green Zone is policed by United Nations troops, amid barbed wire and dilapidated buildings with sand bags still sitting in the windows.

Either side of this dividing line, whole city blocks lay abandoned since 1974, frozen in time, stuck inside ‘no-mans-land’ with former residents and business owners locked out until a solution can be found to reunite the island.

A laneway in North Nicosia is blocked by a section of wall which includes a ladder and two peep holes.

A laneway in North Nicosia is blocked by a section of wall which includes a ladder and two peep holes.

Either side of this dividing line, whole city blocks layed abandoned since 1974, frozen in time, stuck inside ‘no-mans-land’ with former residents and business owners locked out until a solution can be found to reunite the island.

Often, while walking through the maze of laneways in the old town, your way is blocked by a section of the buffer zone.

A residential building in North Nicosia lies directly on the UN Green Line.

A residential building in North Nicosia lies directly on the UN Green Line.

After almost 50 years of division, residents on both sides of the buffer zone have become use to living with a hard border passing through their front gardens.

Some have installed garden furniture or sit and play backgammon or chat in streets which have become quiet cul-de-sacs due to access being blocked by the wall.

Residents on the Greek side of the UN Green Line sit and chat in front of a section of wall.

Residents on the Greek side of the UN Green Line sit and chat in front of a section of wall.

Selimiye Mosque

Selimiye Mosque is a former Christian cathedral converted into a mosque under the Ottomans.

Selimiye Mosque is a former Christian cathedral converted into a mosque under the Ottomans.

North Nicosia’s most prominent landmark, which can also be seen from the Greek side of the city, the Selimiye Mosque started life in 1209 as a Christian cathedral.

After 78 years of construction, the cathedral was consecrated in 1326 as the Church of Agia Sofia (meaning “Holy Wisdom” in Greek). It was the largest church in the eastern Mediterranean and was used as the coronation church of the kings of Cyprus.

When the Agia Sofia cathedral was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, minarets were installed in place of the bell towers.

When the Agia Sofia cathedral was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, minarets were installed in place of the bell towers.

When the Ottomans arrived in 1571, they stripped the building of its Christian contents and added two minarets, between which the Turkish Cypriot and Turkish flags now flutter.

At the time of my visit, the Selimiye Mosque was closed for renovations.

At the time of my visit, the Selimiye Mosque was closed for renovations.

At the time of my visit in November 2021, the mosque was closed for extensive renovations.

Büyük Han

A view of Büyük Han, an Ottoman-era caravanserai which dates from 1572.

A view of Büyük Han, an Ottoman-era caravanserai which dates from 1572.

Lying at the heart of North Nicosia old town, Büyük Han, is an Ottoman-era caravanserai.

Giftshops occupy the many rooms of Büyük Han, a former caravanserai.

Giftshops occupy the many rooms of Büyük Han, a former caravanserai.

One of the first building projects by the Ottomans, construction of Büyük Han was commenced in 1572 by the first Ottoman governor of Cyprus, Lala Mustafa Pasha. It served as an inn for travellers.

A view of Büyük Han, one of the main sights of North Nicosia.

A view of Büyük Han, one of the main sights of North Nicosia.

The building was renovated in the early 1990s and is today a tourist magnet, offering cafes, restaurants and workshops which are housed in the small cells leading off the 1st-floor balcony that originally served as the inn’s sleeping areas.

North Cyprus postcards for sale at a giftshop inside Büyük Han.

North Cyprus postcards for sale at a giftshop inside Büyük Han.

Kumarcılar Han

An Ottoman-era Caravansarai in the heart of North Nicosia old town, the Kumarcilar Han is surrounded by cafés and restaurants.

An Ottoman-era Caravansarai in the heart of North Nicosia old town, the Kumarcilar Han is surrounded by cafés and restaurants.

This caravanserai is a smaller version of the neighbouring Büyük Han and was built in the early 18th century. Today its courtyard hosts cafes, and the surrounding cells, where merchant goods were once stored, are today home to local craft shops.

Ottoman Architecture

The streets of North Nicosia old town are lined with Ottoman-style buildings.

The streets of North Nicosia old town are lined with Ottoman-style buildings.

One of the noticeable differences between the Greek and Turkish sides of Nicosia are the number of beautifully restored Ottoman-style buildings which line the streets of North Nicosia old town.

Oddly, there are very few Ottoman-style buildings remaining on the Greek side of the city!

Nicosia Market

The covered market in North Nicosia offers everything from plastic combs, souvenirs to produce.

The covered market in North Nicosia offers everything from plastic combs, souvenirs to produce.

No Turkish city is complete without a covered market and North Nicosia market lives up to all expectations. Located around the corner from the Selimiye mosque, the market is housed inside a huge, sprawling hall and is an Aladdin’s cave of everything imaginable.

From plastic combs to fresh produce, souvenirs and Cyprus (Turkish) delight, the market is a great place to shop!

Kyrenia (Girne)

A very golden statue of Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, graces the waterfront in Kyrenia.

A very golden statue of Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, graces the waterfront in Kyrenia.

The northern port city of Kyrenia (Turkish: Girne) is the main tourist hub of North Cyprus, offering a good selection of accommodation, shopping, sightseeing, dining and entertainment options. This is the place to base yourself with all other cities within daytrip distance.

Kyrenia Castle

Kyrenia castle guards the entrance to Kyrenia harbour.

Kyrenia castle guards the entrance to Kyrenia harbour.

Built during the Byzantine period, the large looming hulk that is Kyrenia castle guards the narrow entrance to Kyrenia harbour.

A view of Kyrenia harbour from Kyrenia castle.

A view of Kyrenia harbour from Kyrenia castle.

A large rectangular structure, the castle contains a cistern, dungeon, chapel and two small museums, including the fascinating Shipwreck Museum.

The flags if Turkey and Northern Cyprus flying on top of the ramparts at Kyrenia castle.

The flags if Turkey and Northern Cyprus flying on top of the ramparts at Kyrenia castle.

A highlight of the castle is a walk (sometimes precarious), along the top of the ramparts, which offers panoramic view of Kyrenia harbour and the old town – the best views in town.

Shipwreck Museum

The Kyrenia Shipwreck Museum contains the remains of the oldest shipwreck recovered from Cypriot waters.

The Kyrenia Shipwreck Museum contains the remains of the oldest shipwreck recovered from Cypriot waters.

Housed inside one of the castle ramparts, the Kyrenia Shipwreck Museum contains the remains of the oldest shipwreck recovered from Cypriot waters.

Built of Aleppo pine, this Greek merchant ship sank off the Kyrenia coast around 300 BC, and was discovered by a local diver in 1967.

The recovered wooden hull of the Greek merchant ship which sunk in 300 BC.

The recovered wooden hull of the Greek merchant ship which sunk in 300 BC.

Its cargo consisted of amphorae (ancient vessel form used as a storage jar), almonds, grain, wine and millstones from the Greek islands of Samos, Rhodes and Kos. In an upstairs room is the remains of the wooden hull.

Bellapais Abbey

Bellapais Abbey is a highlight of Kyrenia.

Bellapais Abbey is a highlight of Kyrenia.

Founded in the early 13thC by the Augustinian friars who had been evicted from the city of Jerusalem, after it fell to Saladin, Bellapais Abbey was established under Aimery Lusignan who ruled Cyprus from 1194-1205.

The abbey consists of a church and a cloister, with most of the monastic buildings surrounding the cloister. The name “Bellapais” derives from the French name “Abbaye de la paix” which means “Abbey of Peace”.

Located on a hill, 6 km south-west of Kyrenia town, Bellapais is home to the only functioning church in Northern Cyprus – the church of Ayia Asprophorusa, “Our Lady of the White Garments”.

A view of the interior of Ayia Asprophorusa church at Bellapais Abbey.

A view of the interior of Ayia Asprophorusa church at Bellapais Abbey.

While all other churches in Northern Cyprus were converted into mosques during the Ottoman period, the small church of Ayia Asprophorusa was deemed to be of such importance that it was spared!

The church was once said to have been endowed with a piece of the True Cross from Jerusalem, a gift from a crusading Knight. This relic was stolen by invading Genoese in the 14th century.

Ayia Asprophorusa church at Bellapais Abbey was converted into an orthodox church.

Ayia Asprophorusa church at Bellapais Abbey was converted into an orthodox church.

Built in the 13th century building, the church is the oldest surviving building of the abbey. It has three aisles and inside the church there are chandeliers and impressive arches with pillars that support the roof.

The altar of Ayia Asprophorusa church, the only functioning church in Northern Cyprus, where 99% of the population are Muslim.

The altar of Ayia Asprophorusa church, the only functioning church in Northern Cyprus, where 99% of the population are Muslim.

After the Ottomans conquered Cyprus, they handed Bellapais monastery to the Orthodox Church. The Orthodox Church only made small changes, mainly to the interior of the church. They added features like the wooden altar and icons.

A view of the cloister at Bellapais Abbey.

A view of the cloister at Bellapais Abbey.

The beautiful, 18-arch, cloister and the refectory surrounding the courtyard area were completed between 1324 and 1359 AD. There are several stairs from the cloisters which provide access to the roof from where you have sweeping views of the north coast and Kyrenia.

A Byzantine column in the Chapter House at Bellapais Abbey.

A Byzantine column in the Chapter House at Bellapais Abbey.

Located on the eastern side of the cloister, the Chapter House functioned as the abbey’s administrative section. The column in the centre of the Chapter house may have come from a Byzantine church.

Saint Hilarion Castle

Saint Hilarion castle offers panoramic view of Kyrenia and the north coast of Cyprus.

Saint Hilarion castle offers panoramic view of Kyrenia and the north coast of Cyprus.

Saint Hilarion Castle lies on the Kyrenia mountain range, directly overlooking the port city. This strategic location provided the castle with command of the pass road from Kyrenia to Nicosia.

It is the best-preserved ruin of the three former strongholds in the Kyrenia mountains, the other two being Kantara and Buffavento.

Constructed in the 11th century by the Byzantines, Saint Hilarion Castle was part of a defensive system, together with the castles of Buffavento and Kantara, to guard the island against Arab pirate attacks.

A view of Kyrenia from Saint Hilarion Castle.

A view of Kyrenia from Saint Hilarion Castle.

Used as a summer residence by the ruling Lusignans, the castle was divided into three sections, with the lower and middle sections serving economic purposes, while the upper section housed the royal family.

Today, the Turkish army maintains a military base (one of many in Northern Cyprus) nearby along with firing ranges and other practice areas. Photography along the approach road to the castle is forbidden (guards maintain watch over passing motorists) but, once at the castle, you have a clear view of their installations and photography isn’t a problem.

Kantara Castle

Kantara Castle occupies a lofty position high in the Kyrenia mountain range.

Kantara Castle occupies a lofty position high in the Kyrenia mountain range.

Another of the defensive installations, Kantara Castle is located at an elevation of 550–600 metres (1,800–1,970 ft) above sea level, in the Kyrenia mountain range, 66 km east of Kyrenia.

Kantara Castle is located at an elevation of 550–600 metres (1,800–1,970 ft) above sea level.

Kantara Castle is located at an elevation of 550–600 metres (1,800–1,970 ft) above sea level.

While the exact date of its construction remains unknown, although most probably during the Byzantine period, the castle became derelict in 1525 and was dismantled in 1560.

Perched on a high peak in the Kyrenia mountains, Kantara castle offers sweeping views of the north coast of Cyprus.

Perched on a high peak in the Kyrenia mountains, Kantara castle offers sweeping views of the north coast of Cyprus.

The castle is surrounded by ridges of barren granite and sandstone bedrock which were used as the main building materials for the castle’s construction.

A view of the Kyrenia mountain range, looking east towards the panhandle of Cyprus.

A view of the Kyrenia mountain range, looking east towards the panhandle of Cyprus.

The lack of local water sources necessitated the collection of rainwater through the use flat roofs which were connected to the cisterns through a drainage system.

Famagusta

City Walls

A view of the western side of the immense city walls which surround Famagusta. A pathway now lies in the former moat.

A view of the western side of the immense city walls which surround Famagusta. A pathway now lies in the former moat.

Nowhere else in Cyprus is the heavy burden of history so apparent than in the port city of Famagusta (Turkish: Gazimağusa).

With its old town completely surrounded by huge walls which were built by the Venetians during the 15th- and 16th-century, Famagusta draws a steady stream of tourists who make day trips across the UN Buffer zone from nearby Larnaca and Ayia Napa.

During the Middle Ages, Famagusta was the island’s most important port city and a gateway to trade with the eastern Mediterranean ports, from where Silk Road merchants carried their goods to Western Europe.

A gateway in the city walls of Famagusta.

A gateway in the city walls of Famagusta.

Dating from 274 BC, Famagusta is nicknamed “the city of 365 churches” owing to a legend that at its peak, Famagusta boasted one church for each day of the year.

When the Ottomans took control of the city after a long battle with the ruling Venetians, all Christians were expelled from the city and were replaced by settlers from Anatolia.

In the following years, the many churches were either destroyed or converted to mosques.

Today, Famagusta’s star has fallen with many buildings in the old town closed or abandoned. While it makes for a great day trip, Famagusta old town offers few accommodation and dining options and is very quiet in the evenings, once all the day trippers have left. Famagusta is located 61 kilometres (38 miles) south-east of Kyrenia.

Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (St. Nicholas Cathedral)

Consecrated in 1328, St. Nicholas cathedral was converted into the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque after the Ottoman Empire captured Famagusta in 1571.

Consecrated in 1328, St. Nicholas cathedral was converted into the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque after the Ottoman Empire captured Famagusta in 1571.

The Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, originally known as the Saint Nicholas Cathedral is the largest medieval building in Famagusta.

Built between 1298 and 1400, it was consecrated as a Catholic cathedral in 1328. The cathedral was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman Empire captured Famagusta in 1571 and it remains a mosque to this day.

A view of the mihrab inside Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, formerly St. Nicholas cathedral, Famagusta.

A view of the mihrab inside Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, formerly St. Nicholas cathedral, Famagusta.

At the time of its conversion to a mosque, nearly all statuary, stained-glass and other artworks were removed or plastered over, as well as most tombs and the altar. A minaret was added to one of the former bell towers.

A large mihrab (facing Mecca) has been installed on the southern wall of the former church, which completely changes the orientation of the building.

A view of the vaulted ceiling inside Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque.

A view of the vaulted ceiling inside Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque.

The Gothic structure, including the impressive vaulted ceiling, was preserved, although the interior is now very minimal with all pews removed and replaced by carpet.

Sinan Pasha Mosque (Saint Peter and Paul Church)

Due to its height, the walls of the Sinan Pasha Mosque (Saint Peter and Paul Church) are supported by flying buttresses.

Due to its height, the walls of the Sinan Pasha Mosque (Saint Peter and Paul Church) are supported by flying buttresses.

Originally consecrated in 1359 as the Saint Peter and Paul church, this massive structure was financed with funds donated by a successful merchant. Because of its height, the church walls had to be supported by impressive flying buttresses.

A worshipper inside the Sinan Pasha Mosque, formerly the Saint Peter and Paul church.

A worshipper inside the Sinan Pasha Mosque, formerly the Saint Peter and Paul church.

The building became disused during the Venetian period, as it escaped the attention of the Ottoman bombardment of the city in 1571. After their conquest, the Ottomans added a minaret to the south west corner (since destroyed) and renamed the edifice Sinan Pasha Mosque, after “Sinan the Great” who served five times as Grand Vizier in the Ottoman empire.

Worshippers inside the Sinan Pasha Mosque in Famagusta.

Worshippers inside the Sinan Pasha Mosque in Famagusta.

During the British era of the island, the mosque was used as a potato and grain store and so is also locally referred to as the “Bugday Cami” (wheat mosque).

Like the nearby Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, the interior of the former church has had all religious artwork removed and is now very minimal with just a mihrab installed on the southern wall underneath the flags of Turkey and Northern Cyprus.

St. George’s of the Greeks Church

The ruins of St. George's of the Greeks church in Famagusta.

The ruins of St. George’s of the Greeks church in Famagusta.

Consecrated in 1360, and today a magnificent ruin, the Church of St. George of the Greeks is believed to have been the seat of Famagusta’s Orthodox bishopric during medieval times.

A view of the former interior of St. George's of the Greeks church in Famagusta.

A view of the former interior of St. George’s of the Greeks church in Famagusta.

Although structural unsound, with a roof that was too heavy for the supporting columns, the church stood for little over one hundred years and was destroyed during the Ottoman siege of Famagusta in 1571.

Accommodation

The pool and breakfast area at the Sofia Boutique Hotel in Kyrenia.

The pool and breakfast area at the Sofia Boutique Hotel in Kyrenia.

The best range of accommodation options in Northern Cyprus are to be found in the tourist hub of Kyrenia.

While hotel options exist in North Nicosia and Famagusta, the picturesque port city of Kyrenia is the place for shopping, dining and entertainment, with everything open late into the evening.

I stayed at the wonderful Sofia Boutique Hotel (room rate 860 TL/ €55.00) which is located at 7 Atilla Street in the heart of Kyrenia old town, a 3-minute walk from the old port and castle.

My room at the Sofia Boutique hotel in Kyrenia.

My room at the Sofia Boutique hotel in Kyrenia.

Each of the nine rooms at the Sofia Boutique hotel are nicely decorated, featuring cosy interiors which are welcoming and homey.

While situated in the heart of Kyrenia old town, a short walk from the dining and entertainment hub around the port, the hotel is an oasis of calm and serenity.

Breakfast at the Sofia Boutique hotel in Kyrenia.

Breakfast at the Sofia Boutique hotel in Kyrenia.

Breakfast, which is made to order, is served each morning poolside.

A high level of service was provided by the small team of staff who had emigrated to Northern Cyprus from CIS countries such as Russia, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan. It seems Northern Cyprus is an employment destination of choice for those nationalities who would have difficulty gaining an EU work visa.

I enjoyed my stay at the Sofia Boutique hotel and look forward to visiting again! The hotel is a real gem and one I would highly recommend!

Eating Out

The interior of a colourful café in the old town of North Nicosia.

The interior of a colourful café in the old town of North Nicosia.

While Cyprus may be a divided island, when it comes to cuisine, the island is very much united!

The same, delicious, food which is served on the Greek side of the island is also to be found on the Turkish side, with a standard meal consisting of grilled meat, fresh salad, grilled halloumi and fresh, warm, flat-bread.

Where the cuisine of the TRNC differs slightly from the Greek side is the presence of Turkish restaurant chains.

Restaurants

A view of the TRNC checkpoint on Ledra Street, North Nicosia, from the Simit Dünyası restaurant.

A view of the TRNC checkpoint on Ledra Street, North Nicosia, from the Simit Dünyası restaurant.

North Nicosia

One popular Turkish restaurant chain – Simit Dünyası – serves delicious food from its North Nicosia branch, which is located directly opposite the TRNC (Ledra Street) checkpoint.

A grilled halloumi sandwich for lunch at Simit Dünyası in North Nicosia, with the TRNC checkpoint in the background.

A grilled halloumi sandwich for lunch at Simit Dünyası in North Nicosia, with the TRNC checkpoint in the background.

As soon as you exit the Turkish side of the crossing, your first stop should be this restaurant/ café. The first thing you’ll notice is the price difference, compared to the, more expensive, Greek side.

Offering a front row view of the Turkish side of the Ledra Street checkpoint, it’s not often you can sit and enjoy lunch while watching the comings and goings of a border crossing. Photography of the checkpoint isn’t a problem!

Most visitors to Northern Cyprus are day-trippers who walk across the Ledra Street crossing to spend a day shopping and eating in the old town of North Nicosia.

The streets of the old town are lined with cafés and restaurants, all serving tasty food at very reasonable prices.


A bridge-builder in a divided city and a unique dining experience! 

The 'Home for Co-operation' restaurant and café offers a unique dining location inside the UN Buffer zone in Nicosia.

The ‘Home for Co-operation’ restaurant and café offers a unique dining location inside the UN Buffer zone in Nicosia.

For a truly unique dining experience, it’s hard to beat the Home for Co-operation restaurant and café, which is located inside the UN Buffer zone, opposite the abandoned Ledra Palace hotel in downtown Nicosia.

Where else in the world do you have the opportunity to dine inside ‘no-mans-land’?

Open Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 21:00, the Home for Co-operation acts as a meeting place for people from both sides of the buffer zone. Signs on either side of the buffer zone provide directions to the cafe which is an institution in the divided capital.

To access this uniquely placed café, you simply need to present your passport at either the Greek or Turkish checkpoints which lie just 100-metres from the café.

In addition to serving freshly roasted coffee and tasty meals, the Home for Co-operation also features exhibitions and provides meeting spaces for people from either side of the buffer zone to work on collaborative projects.

A beacon of hope in a divided city!


Cafés

North Nicosia

Café No.3 is located a short walk from the Ledra Street crossing in North Nicosia.

Café No.3 is located a short walk from the Ledra Street crossing in North Nicosia.

The streets of North Nicosia old town are lined with traditional Ottoman-style houses which are home to both retro and modern cafés and restaurants. One popular cafe is Café No.3 which is located a short walk from the Ledra Street checkpoint.

Located in the heart of North Nicosia old town, the Kumarcilar Han is the setting for many cafes and restaurants.

Located in the heart of North Nicosia old town, the Kumarcilar Han is the setting for many cafes and restaurants.

Located in the heart of North Nicosia old town, the beautifully restored Kumarcilar Han (Gambler’s Inn), an Ottoman-era Caravansarai, is the setting for many cafes and restaurants.

Famagusta

Located within the walled old town of Famagusta, Petek Pastanesi is famous all over Cyprus for its divine pastries and sweets, including a tempting selection of Cyprus (Turkish) delight. This is an ideal place for lunch or coffee and cake in between visiting the many ruined churches of Famagusta.

Kyrenia

A selection of very affordable hand-made chocolates at Mensure's Coffee &amp; Chocolate café in Kyrenia.

A selection of very affordable hand-made chocolates at Mensure’s Coffee & Chocolate café in Kyrenia.

For those who appreciate hand-made chocolates and good coffee, the ground floor of the Sofia Boutique hotel in Kyrenia is occupied by the delectable Mensure’s Coffee & Chocolate café.

With a warm and inviting interior, soft, calm music (Sade is especially popular!) and relaxed ambiance, this emporium of sweetness is a great place to unwind.

The menu features both sweet and savoury options but is especially strong on chocolatey desserts. The perfect accompaniment to a coffee, hand-made Belgium chocolates, which cost about €0.20 each, are offered in a variety of flavours.

Bars

A great place for sunset drinks, the rooftop bar at the White Pearl Hotel in Kyrenia offers a panoramic view of the old port and castle.

A great place for sunset drinks, the rooftop bar at the White Pearl Hotel in Kyrenia offers a panoramic view of the old port and castle.

Kyrenia

There are many bars in Northern Cyprus, with most serving inexpensive Turkish beer and cheap, international-brand spirits.

A large concentration of bars can be found around the old port in Kyrenia. A favourite place for sunset viewing was the rooftop bar at the White Pearl hotel, which overlooks the port.

The view of Kyrenia port and castle from the rooftop bar at the White Pearl Hotel in Kyrenia old town.

The view of Kyrenia port and castle from the rooftop bar at the White Pearl Hotel in Kyrenia old town.

The brainchild of Birol Bebek, a local professional photographer, this groovy, chilled space, serves cold Turkish beers and fabulous cocktails to the sound of mellow jazz classics.

A great place to watch the sunset and the flurry of activity in the restaurants below.

Visa Requirements

A view of the main crossing point (from the Greek Cypriot side) on Ledra Street, Nicosia.

A view of the main crossing point (from the Greek Cypriot side) on Ledra Street, Nicosia.

Almost everyone is entitled to a 30-day tourist visa which is issued without fuss at either Ercan International airport or any of the land crossings. If you can provide proof of booked, long-term, accommodation, you can apply for a 90-day tourist visa.

Click here to view the current TRNC visa policy.

At the time of my visit, extra requirements were in place due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, with a vaccination certificate and a negative ART (Antigen Rapid test) required.

No passport stamps are issued by TRNC immigration and no visa documents are provided. Instead, entry and exit records are recorded by TRNC immigration on a computer database.

Crossing the UN Green Line in Nicosia is a very straight-forward affair, requiring just your passport. Greek officials are very casual with formalities because they don’t recognise TRNC. As far as they are concerned, you are simply crossing to an occupied part of Cyprus.

Tourists in Nicosia (Greek side) photographing across the UN Green Line.

Tourists in Nicosia (Greek side) photographing across the UN Green Line.

On the TRNC side, they are a little more serious but they love welcoming the steady stream of tourists which visit. Most visitors to the TRNC are day-trippers who walk across the UN Green Line and spend a day shopping and eating in North Nicosia (much cheaper than the Greek side). Most visitors do not stray beyond the walls of North Nicosia old town which is unfortunate!

Getting There

Air

Flights into Northern Cyprus arrive at Ercan International Airport (IATA: ECN), which is located 13 kilometres (8 miles) east of North Nicosia, 40 kilometres west of Famagusta and 44 kilometres south of Kyrenia.

All flights into and out of Northern Cyprus operate to/ from Turkey.

The following (Turkey-based) airlines operate scheduled services to/from Northern Cyprus:

  • AnadoluJet: Adana, Ankara, Antalya, Gaziantep, Hatay, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Izmir, London–Stansted (via Istanbul)
  • Pegasus Airlines: Adana, Ankara, Antalya, Gaziantep, Hatay, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Izmir, London–Stansted (via Istanbul)
  • SunExpress: Izmir
  • Turkish Airlines: Istanbul

Airport Transport

From the airport, bus services are offered by the Kibhas company to bus stations in the following destinations:

  • Kyrenia (Girne)
  • Nicosia (Lefkoşa)
  • Famagusta (Gazi Mağusa)
  • Lefka (Lefke)
  • Omorfo (Güzelyurt)

Taxi services can be booked through the Ercan Airport website.

Land

Once the grandest hotel in Nicosia, the abandoned Ledra Palace hotel is frozen in a time-warp, stuck in the middle of no-mans-land in the middle of the UN buffer zone.

Once the grandest hotel in Nicosia, the abandoned Ledra Palace hotel is frozen in a time-warp, stuck in the middle of no-mans-land in the middle of the UN buffer zone.

There are a total of nine land border crossings between Northern Cyprus and Cyprus, with two being located in downtown Nicosia (Ledra Street and the nearby Ledra Palace Hotel).

Sea

Frequent ferry services between mainland Turkey and Northern Cyprus are operated by Akgunler Denizcilik. With three different vessels (2 slow RO-RO ships and one fast passenger catamaran), the company connects the Turkish port cities of Mersin and Taşucu with Kyrenia and Famagusta.

For reservations and schedules, please refer to the Akgunler Denizcilik website.

Getting Around

A TRNC car license plate.

A TRNC car license plate.

The best way to maximise your time in Northern Cyprus is with a rental car.

The crumbling infrastructure in the north is inferior to the south, and a lack of proper highways makes for much slower journey times.

While car license plates on the Greek side of the island feature three letters and three numbers and a CY designation on the blue EU field, cars from TRNC feature two letters, three numbers and a blue field which contains the seal of the Motor Vehicles Registrar.

Public Transport

Kyrenia Gate in North Nicosia is the main terminus for buses to Kyrenia and other towns.

Kyrenia Gate in North Nicosia is the main terminus for buses to Kyrenia and other towns.

The backbone of public transport in Northern Cyprus are the many minibuses, which operate on fixed routes from North Nicosia, stopping anywhere along the way to pickup and drop-off passengers.

Buses depart from Kyrenia Gate which is the old northern gateway into Nicosia old town. Prices are inexpensive at approximately 1 TL for trips within the capital and 2.50 TL – 5 TL for inter-city trips. Buses run frequently but to no fixed timetable.

Taxi

There are numerous taxi companies operating in Northern Cyprus with tariffs being very reasonable at 10-20 TL (within town) to 40-70 TL (between towns)

Taxis are often best booked by phone. You can view a list of taxi companies here.

Rental Car

My rental car parked in the village of Kantara.

My rental car parked in the village of Kantara.

It should be noted that rental cars in Cyprus cannot be driven across the UN buffer zone.

This is due to insurance coverage being invalid on the other side of the buffer zone.

If you wish to explore north of the buffer zone, you’ll need to rent a car in northern Cyprus and vice-versa.

If you have your own vehicle, you are allowed to take it across the border.

While in the north, I saw many private cars from the south, full of Greek Cypriots visiting the sites of the north or checking on their abandoned properties.

I rented a car through my hotel in Kyrenia, which cost me £20 per day.

Car rental rates in Northern Cyprus are normally quoted in Pound sterling since the Turkish lira fluctuates so much due to rampant inflation.

The license plate of my rental car. All rental car license plates in TRNC are coloured red and prefixed with a 'Z'.

The license plate of my rental car. All rental car license plates in TRNC are coloured red and prefixed with a ‘Z’.

Speed Cameras

As with everything else in Northern Cyprus, a lack of investment in infrastructure makes for much slower journey times compared to the southern side of the island where EU subsidies have been used to build a modern, fast, highway network.

Most towns in the north are connected by old-style highways which are two-lane main roads with lots of junctions and round-a-bouts. At every single junction you will find an (annoying) speed camera. They are everywhere and often requiring you to slow from 100 km/h to 50, 60 or 70km/h! Cameras occur every few kilometres!

One especially annoying camera is located on a downhill stretch of highway near Kyrenia, requiring you to slow down to 50km/h on a dual carriageway highway. Argh!


That’s the end of my travel guide for Northern Cyprus.

If you wish to provide feedback on this, or any other content on taste2travel, please leave a comment.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Transnistria Photo Gallery

The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.

Transnistria Photo Gallery

This is a Transnistria Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Transnistria Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Transnistria Travel Guide

Lenin Statue in Tiraspol.

Transnistria Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Transnistria Travel Guide!

 

Date Visited: September 2019

Introduction

Have you ever wanted to visit a country which doesn’t exist?

Quirky and fascinating, the unrecognised, breakaway Republic of Transnistria is a destination that’s stuck in the Soviet past.

Officially known as the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, and locally as Pridnestrovie, Transnistria is a landlocked breakaway state internationally recognised as part of Moldova.

This self-declared republic occupies a narrow strip of land on the eastern bank of the Dniester River, although the international community recognise the land as part of the Republic of Moldova.

Transnistria has been recognised only by two other non-recognised, states: Abkhazia and South Ossetia (see the following section for more on these breakaway states).

A Soviet-era tractor working on the main street of Tiraspol.

A Soviet-era tractor working on the main street of Tiraspol.

The capital, Tiraspol, is full of soviet-era relics; its residents live in drab, soviet-era apartment blocks, Lada’s cruise the streets (although modern SUVs are becoming more popular), well-tended flower beds line the main street, which is named after the Russian revolution of 1917.

The town hall is housed inside the ‘House of Soviets’, Lenin statues can be found in a couple of prominent locations while a tank statue serves as a reminder of battles fought.

All signage is in Cyrillic, everyone speaks Russian, with almost no one speaking English.

'I Love Tiraspol' in Cyrillic.

‘I Love Tiraspol’ in Cyrillic.

Transnistria is truly idiosyncratic – a place that has never stopped living the Soviet dream.

If it cannot be independent, then it would rather join into a union with Russia.

While Moldova sees its future in the west, as part of the Europe Union, Transnistria is looking east to Russia.

This breakaway state is a charming, off-beat, fascinating and engaging destination which should be on anyone’s itinerary.

Soviet symbols can be found everywhere in Transnistria.

Soviet symbols can be found everywhere in Transnistria.

Community for Democracy and Rights of Nations

What does a breakaway republic do when the international community refuses to recognise it?

It forms an organisation with other (non-recognised) breakaway republics.

The Community for Democracy and Rights of Nations, also commonly known as the Commonwealth of Unrecognised States, is an international organisation uniting three unrecognised states, all of whom were formerly part of the Soviet Union.

The members of the organisation are:

Abkhazia (Administrative centre: Sukhumi)

Flag of Abkhazia Icon

South Ossetia (Administrative centre: Tskhinvali)

Flag of South Ossetia Icon

Transnistria (Administrative centre: Tiraspol)

Flag of Transnistria Icon

Location

Transnistria Travel Guide: A regional map showing the thin slither of territory which is the breakaway 'Republic of Transnistria'.

A regional map showing the thin slither of territory which is the breakaway ‘Republic of Transnistria’.
Source: Wikipedia

Transnistria is a landlocked state which borders the Republic of Moldova to the west and Ukraine to the east.

All of the territory of Transnistria lies to the east of the Dniester river, except for the district of Bender, which lies on the west bank of the river.

Tourism

Tiraspol Tourist Information Centre

The wonderful Tatyana, from the Tiraspol Tourist Information centre, presenting me with a map of the city.

The wonderful Tatyana, from the Tiraspol Tourist Information centre, presenting me with a map of the city.

Located at #135 Strada Sovietic, in downtown Tiraspol, the territory’s only Tourist Information Centre is staffed by a small, English-speaking, team of enthusiastic and helpful staff who are keen to promote the attractions of Transnistria.

The information centre is open every day, from 09:30 to 18:30, except Sundays.

The Tiraspol Tourist Information Centre is located around the corner from the City Hall.

The Tiraspol Tourist Information Centre is located around the corner from the City Hall.

Apart from providing advice, the centre also stocks a good selection of Transnistria souvenirs.

Transnistria magnets on sale at the Tourist Information centre.

Transnistria magnets on sale at the Tourist Information centre.

Walking Tours

One of Anton's sketches, which is featured on his Facebook page.

One of Anton’s sketches, which is featured on his Facebook page.

If you wish to discover sights beyond the regular tourist trail, you should join the enthusiastic and energetic Anton Dendemarchenko on one of his free walking tours. Anton, who is a local, English-speaking guide, describes himself as an urban sketcher and sightseeing hunter. He has sketched most of the sights of Tiraspol and sells his work as postcards, which make for great souvenirs.

Most guides working in Transnistria are actually from Chisinau. These guides travel each day from Moldova’s capital, bringing bus-loads of day tripping tourists, returning back to Chisinau in the evening.

Anton however, is a real local and has explored every nook and cranny of Transnistria, which allows him to show visitors the hidden gems of the territory. Apart from being an informative guide, Anton is also very witty and funny!

If you want to do something memorable while in Transnistria, then Anton is your man! You can contact him at:

Virtual Walking Tours

If you’re currently unable to travel to Transnistria, you can whet your appetite by joining Anton on one of his virtual walking tours which are highly engaging! You can make enquiries and bookings via Anton’s TripAdvisor page.

How Long in Transnistria?

How long should you spend in Transnistria?

Almost all visitors visit Tiraspol and Bender on a day-trip from Chisinau, which is unfortunate as this peculiar breakaway republic is an engaging destination which warrants more than a day-trip (which is more like a half day-trip once you account for travel times from Chisinau).

I stayed for two days and one night in Tiraspol but this also wasn’t enough. If I had my time again, I would stay for three days and two nights – there is quite a bit to see and do.

Anton (mentioned above in ‘Walking Tours‘) can easily fill a full day taking you to some of the lesser-known, off-beat sights which are located outside of Tiraspol. The capital has enough sights to warrant a full day, then there’s Bender, with its amazing fortress. I was happy spending time sitting in the various cafes along the main street of Tiraspol, watching the world go by, in this city which is still firmly stuck in the Soviet past.

Transnistria is weird, strange, unconventional and charming, it’s a pleasure to visit and shouldn’t be rushed. Then there’s the Sturgeon farm! Caviar anyone?

A Brief History

The Dniester river, which forms the border between Transnistria and Moldova, flowing through Tiraspol.

The Dniester river, which forms the border between Transnistria and Moldova, flowing through Tiraspol.

I’m including this section to provide some background history on Transnistria to allow for a better understanding of why the territory has tried to go its own way since Moldova declared its independence.

Historically, the land occupied by current day Moldova, from the Prut river in the west, to the Dniester river in the east, was part of the Romanian Principality of Moldavia, which has its capital in the Romanian city of Iași. In 1812, during the reign of Tsar Alexander I, the Russian Empire invaded Romania and annexed the land between the Prut and Dniester rivers. This is the land which forms modern day Moldova.

Soviet-era symbols can be found throughout Transnistria.

Soviet-era symbols can be found throughout Transnistria.

Once the Russian Empire was dissolved in 1918, Moldova re-united with other Romanian lands inside Romania. After being occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, and changing hands in 1941 and 1944 during World War II, Moldova would become part of the USSR and be known as the Moldavian SSR (Soviet Socialist Republic) until 1991.

Transnistria was also included in the Moldavian SSR, and, although the majority of its population are ethnically Russian, things remained peaceful since everyone was part of one country (the Soviet Union), everyone spoke one language (Russian), and everyone used one alphabet (Cyrillic).

Flag of Romania.

Flag of Romania.

However, when the Soviet Union collapsed, Moldova declared its independence on August 27, 1991. At that time, it declared the national language would be changed from Russian to Romanian, the Cyrillic alphabet would be replaced with the Latin alphabet (which is the alphabet normally used by the Moldovan’s) and the national flag would be changed so that it was almost identical to the Romanian flag. Today in Moldova, there are calls from different groups, and politicians, to finally reunite the country with Romania.

Flag of Moldova.

Flag of Moldova.

War of Independence

Looking across from the other side of the Dniester river, the mostly Russian population of Transnistria was concerned that they would become a minority inside Moldova. They didn’t speak Moldovan; they didn’t use the Latin alphabet and they didn’t want to be a part of Romania.

Transnistria decided to declare its independence, a move which saw Moldova respond with force. Due to Russia’s involvement and Moldova’s limited defence capabilities, the War of Independence was short-lived, lasting from 1990 to 1992. A ceasefire was declared on the 21st of July 1992, which has held.

Despite everything, the international community has never recognised Transnistria and considers the territory a part of Moldova. If the world won’t recognise their independence, then the Transnistrian’s would rather join into a union with Russia, although Russia is not rushing to the altar. Currently, stability is assured due to the continued presence of Russian ground forces.

Politics

The coat of arms of Transnistria with the flags of (l-r) Transnistria, Russia and the different districts of Transnistria.

The coat of arms of Transnistria with the flags of (l-r) Transnistria, Russia and the different districts of Transnistria.

It’s not easy being an unrecognised republic. Despite this, the Republic of Transnistria, officially known as the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR) is headed by an elected President, currently – Vadim Krasnoselsky – who serves as the head of state while the Prime Minister is head of government.

A billboard in Tiraspol commemorates 29 years of the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR).

A billboard in Tiraspol commemorates 29 years of the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR).

Transnistria today is an unrecognised republic with its own government, parliament, military, police, postal system, flag, currency and vehicle registration. While the republic is only recognised by the three other breakaway republics, Russia maintains a consulate in Tiraspol, but hasn’t recognised Transnistria as an independent state.

Flag

The reverse side of the flag of Transnistria.

The reverse side of the flag of Transnistria.

The flag of Transnistria is actually the former flag of the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (MSSR), which served as the republic’s flag until the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. When Moldova became independent, it changed its flag to be almost identical with that of neighbouring Romania.

Transnistria refused to fly the new Moldovan flag and continued to fly the flag of the MSSR. Continued use of the flag was popular and so, in 2000, it was officially reintroduced as the flag of Transnistria. The flag features the hammer & sickle, the only flag in Europe to do so. Despite the symbols, Transnistria is not a socialist state!

Philately

This small collection of Transnistrian stamps cost me US$3 from Tiraspol Post Office.

This small collection of Transnistrian stamps cost me US$3 from Tiraspol Post Office.

Since Transnistria is not recognised internationally, its stamps can only be used for domestic post. If someone in Transnistria needs to post something abroad, then Moldovan stamps need to be used. I spent a whole US$3 to acquire a tiny collection of stamps, which I’ll never be able to use, but they are a cool souvenir!

The main post office in Tiraspol.

The main post office in Tiraspol.

If you wish to acquire your own collection of Transnistrian stamps, you will find the helpful staff at the main post office in Tiraspol more than willing to serve you.

As an experiment, you could try sending a postcard to a friend by affixing Moldovan and Transnistrian stamps. I have heard of cases where postal items have been delivered internationally with Transnistrian stamps attached.

Currency

My collection of Transnistrian ruble bank notes which feature an image of Alexander Suvorov, the Russian General who founded Tiraspol.

My collection of Transnistrian ruble bank notes which feature an image of Alexander Suvorov, the Russian General who founded Tiraspol.

The currency of Transnistria is the rouble, which is issued by the Pridnestrovian Republican Bank (PRB). The notes come in denominations of 1-, 5-, 10-, 25-, 50-, 100-, 200 and 500 rubles. Bank notes are printed in Russia by the Goznak company and cannot be exchanged outside of Transnistria. Credit cards are generally not accepted in Transnistria.

The central bank of Transnistria, Pridnestrovian Republican Bank, is headquartered in Tiraspol.

The central bank of Transnistria, Pridnestrovian Republican Bank, is headquartered in Tiraspol.

Exchange Rates

Rouble exchange rates displayed at a bank in Tiraspol.

Rouble exchange rates displayed at a bank in Tiraspol.

The ruble is de facto pegged to the United States dollar. The central bank determines each work day whether or not it is appropriate to devalue the currency against the U.S. dollar.

The World’s Only Plastic Token Currency

The plastic token money of Transnistria.

The plastic token money of Transnistria.

While changing money at the bank one day, the friendly teller ducked off to find something special for me. She returned with a small, blue, plastic token which looked like a playing chip from a casino. This was a 5-ruble plastic bank note/ chip. Amazing! The land of the wacky had just become even wackier! As illustrated above, there are four which you can collect.

From the 'land of the quirky' comes the plastic 5 rouble token and the equivalent paper bank note.

From the ‘land of the quirky’ comes the plastic 5 rouble token and the equivalent paper bank note.

Costs

Transnistria is a travel bargain! Accommodation options include only ‘budget’ and ‘top end’, however top end options are priced as mid-range options. Food, drinks and transportation costs are very reasonable.

Sample costs: 

  • Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 11 rubles (US$0.68)
  • Water (0.33 litre bottle): 7.6 rubles (US$0.47)
  • Local Beer (0.5 litre from Bender Brewery): 25 rubles (US$1.50)
  • Cappuccino: 18 rubles (US$1.10)
  • Bus Ticket (in Tiraspol): 2 rubles (US$0.14)
  • Litre of fuel: 16 rubles (US$1.00)
  • Meal (inexpensive restaurant): 80 rubles (US$5.00)
  • Dorm bed in a budget hostel (Like Home Hostel in Tiraspol): 180 rubles (US$11)
  • Room in a top-end hotel (Hotel Russia in Tiraspol): 1000 rubles (US$62)

Phone Services

Don’t expect your Moldovan, or international, SIM to work in Transnistria. I was using a SIM card from Orange (Moldova), which stopped working once I crossed the border. The only hope of connecting to the internet is through your hotel or one of the cafes or restaurants in Tiraspol.

People

Most residents of Tiraspol still live in drab, Soviet-era apartments, some of which are undergoing cosmetic renovation.

Most residents of Tiraspol still live in drab, Soviet-era apartments, some of which are undergoing cosmetic renovation.

The authorities in Transnistria conducted a census in 2015, which counted a total population of 475,665, which was a 14% decrease from the previous census (conducted in 2004). Of the population, the largest ethnic groups were:

  • 161,300 Russians (34%)
  • 156,600 Moldovans (33%)
  • 126,700 Ukrainians (26.7%)

A billboard in Tiraspol.

A billboard in Tiraspol.

Russian is spoken by everyone and English (or any other foreign language) is spoken by almost no one. The minute you cross the border from Moldova to Transnistria, all signage changes to Cyrillic. I stayed at the best hotel in town, the Hotel Russia, where only the reception staff were able to communicate in English. There are some English speakers working in the cafes and restaurants in Tiraspol.

Compared to their Moldovan neighbours, I found the people of Transnistria to be very reserved and not particularly friendly. They seemed very stern and serious, rarely smiled or made eye contact. There were a few exceptions – but only a few!

The Transnistrian passport is not recognised by other countries and hence cannot be used for international travel.

The Transnistrian passport is not recognised by other countries and hence cannot be used for international travel.

While the residents of Transnistria are issued with passports, these are not recognised by the intentional community and therefore, not valid for international travel. Almost all Transnistrian’s have a second passport, which is either Russian, Ukrainian or Moldovan, depending on their heritage.

Economy

Why the continuous population decline? It’s all about the economy – or the lack of economic opportunities!

After visiting Transnistria, I travelled to Odessa, Ukraine where I met many Transnistrian’s (of Ukrainian decent) who had relocated to Odessa to find employment. While the economy remains dysfunctional in Transnistria, the population decline will continue as people look for work elsewhere. Despite the issues between Moldova and Transnistria, many Transnistrian’s live and work in Chisinau.

The economy of Transnistria is a peculiar combination of the command-and-distribution model inherited from the USSR with elements of a free-market economy which is heavily dependent on Russian energy and financial subsidies. The main pillars of the region’s economy are several large industrial plants – a power plant, steel works, cement works and a textile factory. These were built in the Soviet era and generate more than half of the territory’s GDP (in 2012, Transnistria’s GDP reached around US$1 billion).

The government maintains a permanent deficit, one which has been continuously increasing since 2008. The major sources of income in Transnistria’s economy are from exports and cash remittances from expatriate workers.

Sightseeing

This ageing peace (Frieden) sign adorns the side of an apartment block on the road from Tiraspol to Bender.

This ageing peace (Frieden) sign adorns the side of an apartment block on the road from Tiraspol to Bender.

While sightseeing in Transnistria, you should always keep an eye open for hidden Soviet-era treasures. Non-descript buildings, in the most unremarkable locations, often feature beautiful Soviet artwork.

An incredible 'CCCP Worker' stone mosaic on the wall of a factory in a quiet backstreet in Bender.

An incredible ‘CCCP Worker’ stone mosaic on the wall of a factory in a quiet backstreet in Bender.

While trying to find my way to Bender Fortress, I drove down a backstreet of an industrial estate which seemed all but abandoned. At the end of the street, in the middle of nowhere, I came upon a factory whose exterior wall was adorned with the most impressive stone mosaic of a worker holding a ‘CCCP’ (USSR in Russian) pentagon in his right hand.

An unremarkable factory in a quiet back street of Bender, which features two impressive works of Soviet-era industrial art.

An unremarkable factory in a quiet back street of Bender, which features two impressive works of Soviet-era industrial art.

Tiraspol

A map of Tiraspol which was provided by the Hotel Russia.

A map of Tiraspol which was provided by the Hotel Russia.

The capital, and largest city of Transnistria, Tiraspol was founded by the Russian General Alexander Suvurov. The city has a handful of sights, all of which can be visited on a leisurely walking tour. If you wish to have a knowledgeable local show you the sights, and provide a dose of humour along the way, I suggest you organise a tour with Anton Dendemarchenko (refer to the ‘Walking Tours‘ section above for more details).

The real charm of Tiraspol comes from it being a city which is in the 21st century, but also stuck in the Soviet past. While the sights are interesting, there’s much more to Tiraspol, which is revealed to those curious enough to scratch below the surface.

The main street of Tiraspol, 25th of October street, is lined with planter boxes full of colourful flowers.

The main street of Tiraspol, 25th of October street, is lined with planter boxes full of colourful flowers.

Most sights in Tiraspol are strung out along the main street, 25th of October street, which is named after the date of the Russian revolution which saw Lenin sweep into power in 1917.

House of Soviets

The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.

The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.

Located in the heart of downtown Tiraspol, the strikingly beautiful, Stalin-era, Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall. The building, which is fronted by a bust of an angry-looking Lenin, is not open to visitors and technically, as a government building, should not be photographed, but every tourist in town stops to photograph it. From the Hotel Russia, the City Hall is a short 100-metre walk.

Lenin Statue

This cloaked statue of Lenin greets all visitors arriving in Tiraspol.

This cloaked statue of Lenin greets all visitors arriving in Tiraspol.

As you drive into Tiraspol, it’s impossible to miss the large Lenin statue which looms over the main street. The cloaked statue fronts the Presidential Palace, the seat of Transdniester’s government, and serves as a striking ‘welcome’ to this most Soviet of cities.

War Memorial Park

The Tank-34 monument, which features a WWII-era Soviet armoured tank.

The Tank-34 monument, which features a WWII-era Soviet armoured tank.

Across the road from the Presidential Palace, the War Memorial park features one of the best photo ops in town, the Tank-34 monument. The tank was used during WWII, but sadly, the crew was killed in a battle near Budapest, Hungary. It stands as a memorial to those who lost their lives in WWII.

The flame of the unknown soldier in the War Memorial park.

The flame of the unknown soldier in the War Memorial park.

The centrepiece of the War Memorial park, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is flanked by an eternal flame, which honours those who died on 3 March 1992, during the first outbreak of fighting in the War of Independence.

A memorial to the War of Independence in Tiraspol.

A memorial to the War of Independence in Tiraspol.

At the western end of the park, against the wall of the History Museum, a memorial is dedicated to those who lost their lives during the War of Independence.

Tiraspol National History Museum

One of many rooms of exhibits at the Tiraspol National History Museum.

One of many rooms of exhibits at the Tiraspol National History Museum.

If you wish to gain a better understanding of Transnistria, the Tiraspol National History Museum features many rooms of exhibits which cover all periods of the territory’s history, from 19th-century Tiraspol, to the Soviet period, the Great Patriotic War (WWII) and finishing with the War of Independence in 1992.

Russian soldiers and weaponry, arriving in Transnistria, to support local militia, during the War of Independence against Moldova.

Russian soldiers and weaponry, arriving in Transnistria, to support local militia, during the War of Independence against Moldova.

A room dedicated to the War of Independence, pays homage to the close relationship enjoyed with Russia. Locals told me that the territory owes its peace (and existence) to the continuous support of Russia, which includes the presence of Russian troops. Putin is popular in these parts!

A display at the Tiraspol National History Museum shows appreciation for Russia and, a very cool looking Putin.

A display at the Tiraspol National History Museum shows appreciation for Russia and, a very cool looking Putin.

Apart from historical displays, the museum also serves as an art gallery of sorts, and includes a hallway lined with paintings from local artists.

A hallway at the museum is lined with paintings from local artists.

A hallway at the museum is lined with paintings from local artists.

Monument to Suvorov

The monument to Suvorov in Tiraspol, with the flags of (l-r) Abkhazia, South Ossetia and the Republic of Artsakh.

The monument to Suvorov in Tiraspol, with the flags of (l-r) Abkhazia, South Ossetia and the Republic of Artsakh.

Commanding attention in the middle of Suvorov Square is the equestrian statue of Suvorov, a great Russian Military Commander, who founded the city of Tiraspol in 1792. The flags of the other three breakaway republics can be seen, fluttering away, in the background of this photo.

Church of the Nativity

A recent addition to the city, the Russian-orthodox 'Church of the Nativity' was completed in 1999.

A recent addition to the city, the Russian-orthodox ‘Church of the Nativity’ was completed in 1999.

Located behind Suvorov Square, the Church of the Nativity is also known as the Cathedral of the Birth of Christ. Completed in 1999, this beautiful, Russian-Orthodox, church is the largest and newest church in Tiraspol. Located next to the central market, it’s easy to find thanks to its sparkling, golden, onion-shaped domes.

Dniester River Promenade

The promenade along the Dniester river is a great place to mingle with locals and watch the sunset.

The promenade along the Dniester river is a great place to mingle with locals and watch the sunset.

Across the road from Suvorov Square, the sleepy promenade along the Dniester river is especially popular with locals in the late afternoon and is the best place to watch the sunset.

Sunset on the Dniester River in Tiraspol.

Sunset on the Dniester River in Tiraspol.

KVINT Wine & Cognac Distillery

The headquarters of the Kvint distillery is featured on the back of the 5-ruble note.

The headquarters of the Kvint distillery is featured on the back of the 5-ruble bank note.

Where else in the world would the headquarters of a distillery be featured on the national currency? Transnistria of course! The 120-year old Kvint Winery and Distillery started life as a distiller of vodka. Today it’s famous for its wines and cognac.

The shop at the Kvint Winery and Distillery.

The shop at the Kvint Winery and Distillery.

At its downtown headquarters, the company offers wine and spirit tastings, tours and an on-site shop sells the full range of their award-winning products.

Bender

Located on the opposite bank of the Dniester river, and the only part of Transnistria which is not east of the river, the City of Bender, is not part of the territorial unit of Transnistria (as defined by the Moldovan central authorities), but it is controlled by the PMR authorities, which consider it part of PMR’s administrative organisation.

The entrance to Bender Fortress.

The entrance to Bender Fortress.

Bender occupies a strategic location on a ‘bend’ in the Dniester river. The city was first mentioned in documents dating back to 1408, when it was known as Tighina.

Bender was historically part of the Principality of Moldavia and was once part of Romania. In 1538, the Ottomans took control of Tighina, renaming it Bender. During their rule, the fortress was modernised and expanded. In 1812, the Russians defeated the Ottomans, taking control of Bender. Today, it’s part of Transnistria with Russian troops guarding the bridge which crosses the Dniester river alongside the famous fortress.

A view of the Ramparts of Bender Fortress.

A view of the Ramparts of Bender Fortress.

For many years, the fortress was closed as it’s home to a military barracks and is considered a military installation. Today it’s open (every day from 9 am to 6 pm) to visitors and is the most impressive sight in Transnistria.

The ‘Iron Maiden’ torture device.

Apart from walking along the impressive ramparts, there are two museums to explore; one which documents the long history of the fort and another which shows lots of gruesome torture devices.

Among the devices, the ‘Iron Maiden’ is a wooden closet loaded with strategically placed spikes. The victim would be placed inside, the doors closed, at which point the spikes would pierce the body – but not the vital organs. The victim would be left to die a slow, painful death. Then there’s the less-than-comfortable ‘Interrogation Chair’.

The 'Interrogation Chair'. Ouch!

The ‘Interrogation Chair’. Ouch!

Accommodation

The centrally located, Hotel Russia, is the best hotel in Tiraspol, and very affordable at USD$60 per night.

The centrally located, Hotel Russia, is the best hotel in Tiraspol, and very affordable at USD$60 per night.

While in Tiraspol, I stayed at the Hotel Russia, which seems fitting when in a republic which dreams of being a part of Russia! The staff at the Hotel Russia speak – Russian, with just the reception staff able to communicate in English.

The Russian theme extends to the cable TV offering, with a selection of – yes – Russian channels! The only English-language channel was the RT (Russia Today) English broadcast, which provides a constant stream of, state-sponsored, propaganda.

My room at the Hotel Russia in Tiraspol.

My room at the Hotel Russia in Tiraspol.

As can be expected from the Hotel Russia, their website offers one language option – Russian! Rooms can be booked through Hotel.com or Booking.com.

Eating Out

An ornate coffee vending machine in Tiraspol.

An ornate coffee vending machine in Tiraspol.

Restaurants

There are a handful of restaurants in downtown Tiraspol which offer Moldovan, Italian, Japanese cuisine and more.

If you’ve appreciated Andy’s Pizza in Chisinau, you’ll be happy to know that there’s a branch in Tiraspol on the main street at 25th October St #72.

Cafés

The beautifully-designed interior of Casta which is a wonderful cafe/ restaurant, located on the main street of Tiraspol.

The beautifully-designed interior of Casta which is a wonderful cafe/ restaurant, located on the main street of Tiraspol.

A few coffee shops can be found along the main street of Tiraspol. One of my favourites is the beautifully-designed Casta (website only in Russian), which offers a menu of international food, cocktails, great coffee, cakes and so much more. It’s located opposite the Central Bank on the main street at – 25th of October street #92.

Bars

One of the local beers which is brewed by the Bender Brewing company.

One of the local beers which is brewed by the Bender Brewing company.

Despite the fact that Transnistria produces its fair share of alcohol, there are surprisingly few bars in Tiraspol. However, most restaurants serve alcohol which gives visitors an opportunity to sample the beers produced by the Bender Brewing company and the wines and cognac produced by the Kvint distillery.

Visa Requirements

My Transnistria 'Migration Card'.

My Transnistria ‘Migration Card’.

Transnistria does not require foreign visitors to obtain a visa; you can stay for up to 45 days without a residence permit. However, you will be issued a Migration Card based on the amount of time you require for your stay.

No stamps are entered into your passport when passing from Moldova to Transnistria. The Moldovan’s consider the territory to be a part of Moldova, so why would they stamp your passport? On the Moldovan side, the ‘border’ consists of a police check, although the police did not stop me.

On the Transnistrian side, the border is much more serious, with stern looking guards ensuring you don’t take photos. I entered the territory at the land border on the highway from Chisinau, which is the border almost all other visitors use to enter the territory. Here, you need to enter an office, present your passport, which is scanned and advise how long you will be staying. You will then be issued with a Migration Card which states how long you can remain in the territory. You need to keep this with you at all times! There are no passport stamps issued in Transnistria! 

Carnet de Passage

All vehicles entering Transnistria are required to purchase a 'Carnet de Passage'.

All vehicles entering Transnistria are required to purchase a ‘Carnet de Passage’.

If you’re entering Transnistria in a rental car, you will be required to purchase a Carnet de Passage which cost me 58 rubles for one week (also payable in other currencies). This is purchased from the customs office which is located inside a separate building.

Getting There

Distances to other cities from Tiraspol.

Distances to other cities from Tiraspol.

Air

Tiraspol airport, which has only ever served as a military air base, is currently closed, but the separatist administration wants it reopened in order to help boost economic growth. Since flights will have to pass through Moldovan air space, clearance is required from the Moldovan authorities, who, naturally, are not willing to give it.

Moldova

The nearest airport to Tiraspol is Chișinău International Airport (IATA: KIV) in Moldova, which is 54 km from Tiraspol. Chisinau International Airport serves as the base for Air Moldova.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Chisinau:

  • Aeroflot – flies to/from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
  • Air Moldova– flies to/from Barcelona, Beauvais, Beirut, Bologna, Dublin, Frankfurt, Geneva, Istanbul, Krasnodar, Larnaca, Lisbon, London–Stansted, Madrid, Milan–Malpensa, Moscow–Domodedovo, Nice, Rome–Fiumicino, Saint Petersburg, Tel Aviv, Thessaloniki, Turin, Venice, Verona, Vienna
  • Austrian Airlines – flies to/from Vienna
  • Belavia – flies to/from Minsk
  • FlyOne – flies to/from Dublin, London–Southend, Moscow–Vnukovo, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Parma, Verona
  • LOT Polish Airlines – flies to/from Warsaw–Chopin
  • Lufthansa – flies to/from Frankfurt
  • TAROM – flies to/from Bucharest
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
  • Ukraine International Airlines – flies to/from Kiev–Boryspil
  • Wizz Air – flies to/from Barcelona, Beauvais, Bergamo, Berlin–Schönefeld, Bologna, Charleroi, Doncaster/Sheffield, Dortmund, Friedrichshafen, Larnaca, London–Luton, Memmingen, Prague, Rome–Ciampino, Rome–Fiumicino, Treviso, Turin, Verona, Vienna

Ukraine

Located in Ukraine, Odessa International Airport (IATA: ODS) is 103 km from Tiraspol.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Odessa:

  • AtlasGlobal Ukraine – flies to/from Istanbul
  • Austrian Airlines – flies to/from Vienna
  • Belavia – flies to/from Minsk
  • Bulgaria Air – flies to/from Sofia
  • Buta Airways – flies to/from Baku
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • LOT Polish Airlines – flies to/from Warsaw–Chopin
  • Motor Sich Airlines – flies to/from Kiev-Zhuliany
  • Onur Air – flies to/from Istanbul
  • Ryanair – flies to/from Berlin–Tegel, Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Kraków, Poznan, Wrocław
  • TAROM – flies to/from Bucharest
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
  • Ukraine International Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul, Kiev–Boryspil, Tel Aviv
  • Wizz Air – flies to/from Berlin-Schönefeld, Bratislava, Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Wrocław

Road

Moldova

From Chisinau to Tiraspol: There are bus and maxi-taxi services from Chisinau (2 hr 20 min, 36.50 Moldovan lei) every 30 minutes through most of the day. Buses leave from the northeast corner of the Chisinau Autogara.

Rail

I rode 3rd class on the train from Chișinău to Odessa which was pleasant and comfortable.

I rode 3rd class on the train from Chișinău to Odessa which was pleasant and comfortable.

Chisinau – Tiraspol – Odessa

A thrice weekly (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) train connects Chisinau to Tiraspol and Odessa, departing Chisinau at 07:09, arriving in Tiraspol at 09:20 then terminating in Odessa at 10:45. Tickets can be booked either online or at the main station.

Prices (Chisinau to Odessa) are:

  • 1st class: 167.20 Moldovan lei
  • 2nd class: 159.10 Moldovan lei
  • 3rd class: 151.40 Moldovan lei

Getting Around

An ornate street sign in Tiraspol at the intersection of Lenin street and 25th of October street.

An ornate street sign in Tiraspol at the intersection of Lenin street and 25th of October street.

Public Transport

Soviet-era buses connect to most points in Tiraspol and Bender.

Soviet-era buses connect to most points in Tiraspol and Bender.

A comprehensive network of trolley buses, regular buses and mini buses (Marshrutka in Russian) allow commuters to reach all parts of Tiraspol and Bender – and at just 2 rubles (US$0.14) a ride, they are a bargain!

Taxi

While taxis are freely available in Tiraspol, the city is very compact and easily covered on foot. I didn’t take any taxis while in Transnistria.

Rental Car

The license plate of Transnistria features the flag and also indicates which district the car is from, with 'T' representing Tiraspol.

The license plate of Transnistria features the flag and also indicates which district the car is from, with ‘T’ representing Tiraspol.

The rental car industry in Transnistria is in its infancy, with just one rental company in Tiraspol – IOOO” Rent a Car.

As can be expected, their website offers one language option – Russian!

I drove a rental car from Chisinau, which cost me US$30 per day.


That’s the end of my Transnistria Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


 

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