Dominica Travel Guide

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Welcome to the taste2travel Dominica Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Known as the “Nature Island,” Dominica lies in the Windward Islands, south of Guadeloupe and north of Martinique. Although it is only a short boat ride from its neighbours, Dominica feels like a different world.

Cruising along the calm and enchanting waters of the India river, near Portsmouth, Dominica.

Compared with the nearby French islands, Dominica is less developed, less commercialised and much less crowded. Life moves at a slower pace, and everything feels more relaxed.

Hand-painted billboard in Roseau.

Cruising along the calm and enchanting waters of the Indian River, near Portsmouth, Dominica.

Dominica is a paradise for nature lovers. If you enjoy hiking, scuba diving, snorkelling or exploring unspoiled landscapes, you will find plenty to enjoy here.

A Yellow-Crowned Night Heron on the India River.

Unlike many Caribbean destinations, Dominica is not a traditional resort island. If you are looking for large all-inclusive resorts and long sandy beaches, this may not be the island for you.

Location

Dominica is about 47 km long and 26 km wide. Paved roads provide access to most parts of the island.

The Waitukubuli National Trail stretches for 184 km along the island. You can hike individual sections or, if you have enough time, walk the entire trail over about two weeks.

Sunset at Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

Like neighbouring Saint Lucia, Dominica is a volcanic island. Its mountainous landscape produces large amounts of rainfall. The coast receives around 100 cm each year, while the mountainous interior can receive as much as 760 cm.

Indian River reflections, Dominica.

As a result, Dominica has lush rainforests, countless rivers and a remarkably green landscape.

History

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.

The first inhabitants of Dominica were the Arawak people, who migrated north from what is now Venezuela. They were later replaced by the Carib people, now known as the Kalinago.

The Kalinago called the island Waitukubuli, meaning “tall is her body.”

Christopher Columbus reached the island during his second voyage to the Americas. He arrived on a Sunday and named the island Doménica, the Italian word for Sunday.

However, the Spanish did not establish a permanent settlement. They found little gold and faced strong resistance from the Kalinago.

The abandoned Methodist Church at Hampstead, Dominica.

French settlers eventually arrived from neighbouring Guadeloupe and Martinique. France formally claimed Dominica in 1727.

The French established plantations and brought enslaved people from West Africa to work on them. Many Dominicans today are descendants of these enslaved Africans.

Britain took control of Dominica in 1763 under the Treaty of Paris. The island remained British until independence in 1978.

Flag

The flag of Dominica.

The flag of Dominica features a green field representing the island’s lush tropical vegetation. A red circular disc sits at the centre, symbolising social justice and the struggle for independence.

The disc is crossed by three narrow bands forming a diagonal cross. The bands are yellow, black and white, representing the island’s Indigenous Kalinago people, fertile soil and African heritage, and the island’s rivers and waterfalls.

At the centre of the red disc is a Sisserou parrot, Dominica’s national bird. The parrot faces the hoist and is surrounded by ten green five-pointed stars, symbolising the island’s ten parishes and the equality of its people.

The flag of Dominica, flying in Roseau.

Overall, the flag combines green, red, yellow, black and white to reflect Dominica’s natural environment, cultural heritage and national identity.

Sightseeing

The welcome sign at Roseau Port, Dominica.

Roseau

An unusual site in Roseau Botanical gardens – a school bus crushed by an African baobab tree during hurricane David in 1979.

Roseau is the capital and largest city of Dominica. It has a population of around 17,000.

The French established Roseau and based its layout on traditional French towns. Streets radiate out from a central point, which is now the site of the Old Market.

The Victorian-era water fountain which stands in the middle of Dawbiney market square in downtown Roseau.

At first, the city’s layout can seem confusing. However, Roseau is small and compact. Most of the main sights can easily be explored on foot in a single day.

Things to See in Roseau

Old Market – The Old Market has been the centre of activity in Roseau for more than 300 years. It was once used as a slave market, farmers’ market and public execution site. Today, it is filled with souvenir stalls.
Public Market – This lively market is a great place to buy local produce. You can also stop for a bowl of goat stew.
Botanical Gardens – Located on 40 acres of land a short walk from downtown, the gardens contain an aviary with rare Jaco and Sisserou parrots.
Dominica Museum – Located on the waterfront, this small museum provides an introduction to Dominica’s history and culture.
Morne Bruce – This hillside viewpoint offers panoramic views across Roseau and the Caribbean Sea. You can reach it by car or via the 800-metre Jack’s Walk trail, which begins behind the parrot aviary in the Botanical Gardens.

A typical wooden building in downtown Roseau, Dominica.

For something different, visit Zam Zam Mexican Restaurant on the waterfront south of Roseau. I also recommend trying their margaritas.

![The flag of Dominica flying in Roseau.]

The flag of Dominica flying in Roseau.

Around the Island

Portsmouth

Cabrits National Park

A view across to Portsmouth from Fort Shirley, Dominica.

Portsmouth is Dominica’s second-largest town. It lies north of Roseau on the island’s leeward, or western, coast.

The town has a lively atmosphere thanks in part to the hundreds of American students who study at Ross University School of Medicine.

Located on a peninsula north of Portsmouth, Cabrits National Park is home to Fort Shirley, an 18th-century British garrison. The fort also provides panoramic views of Portsmouth.

Indian River

Located south of Portsmouth, the Indian River is a peaceful waterway lined with mangroves.

The Indian River is especially attractive because of its impressive Bwa Mang trees. Their large roots and branches create an almost mysterious atmosphere.

A male purple-throated Carib hummingbird at the India river.

The river was also used as a filming location for Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest. Several scenes were filmed here, and some of the remaining sets can still be visited.

The river is home to many birds, including egrets and hummingbirds. You can hire a local rower from the bridge on the main road for a two-hour trip along the river.

Reflections on the Indian river.

For lunch, head to one of the small restaurants and snack bars along “Eat Street”, beside the Ross University campus.

Trafalgar Falls

The majestic Trafalgar Falls.

Trafalgar Falls consists of two spectacular waterfalls on the eastern edge of Morne Trois Pitons National Park.

The taller waterfall is known as Father. Its water is heated by the island’s volcanic activity.

The shorter waterfall is known as Mother and has cooler water.

The hot (left) and cold (right) falls at Trafalgar falls, Dominica.

You can reach the falls via a 600-metre walk through the forest. At the base, natural swimming pools allow you to enjoy both the warm and cool water.

Wotten Waven Hot Springs

Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot spring at Wotten Waven.

Wotten Waven lies in the hills a short drive east of Roseau. The village is known for its sulphur springs.

I visited the Ti Kwen Glo Cho Hot Springs and would recommend them. The facility has several pools of different sizes, plus bathtubs supplied with warm spring water.

There is also a short walking trail leading to a nearby waterfall.

A local boy enjoying a swim in one of the many springs on Dominica.

The entire facility is surrounded by lush rainforest, making it a relaxing place to spend a few hours.

On the way out, you can even purchase a bottle of “snake oil” from the friendly reception staff.

Emerald Pool

The Emerald pool is a relaxed natural pool with a rocky ledge and a small waterfall in the middle of a serene rainforest.

The Emerald Pool is a peaceful natural pool surrounded by rainforest. A rocky ledge and small waterfall add to the setting.

The pool takes its name from the lush green rainforest around it. It sits below a 12-metre waterfall.

Dominican tree lizard – or ‘Zandoli’ at the Emerald Pool, Dominica.

A 10-minute hike through the rainforest leads to the pool. The water is deep enough for swimming, making it an excellent place to cool off on a hot day.

Champagne Reef

Champagne Reef is one of Dominica’s most unusual attractions.

It is especially popular with snorkellers and divers. The water is clear and supports plenty of marine life.

The most unusual feature is the constant stream of bubbles rising from an underwater spring. The reef lies south of Roseau.

Magic!

Scott’s Head

Fishing boats at Scott’s Head.

Scott’s Head is a picturesque fishing village at the southern end of Dominica.

The village has a pebble beach and a dramatic headland. From the headland, you can enjoy panoramic views of both the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean.

Kalinago Territory

A traditional Kalinago carving, Dominica.

The Kalinago Territory lies on the east coast of Dominica.

The reserve was established in 1903 by the British colonial authorities for the indigenous Kalinago people. It is the only territory of its kind in the Caribbean.

The Kalinago lived on Dominica long before European colonisation.

Today, around 3,000 Kalinago live within the territory. The community shares ownership of the land.

There are eight hamlets within the territory. Visitors can also visit Kalinago Barana Auté, a cultural centre designed to provide an insight into traditional Kalinago life.

You can arrange guided visits with local guides.

Even if you miss the welcome signs, it is easy to tell when you have entered the territory. Numerous local craft shops line the main road.

Calibishie

Cow grazing in an abandoned sugar mill in Hampstead.

Calibishie is a small beachside town on Dominica’s northeast coast.

It makes a good base for exploring this part of the island. There are several accommodation options and restaurants in the area.

A panoramic view of the east coast of Dominica, north of Calibishe.

During my visit, I stayed at the Jacoway Inn.

The property is owned by Carol Ann, a Canadian, and her Dominican husband. They offer two studio apartments and a one-bedroom bungalow.

The breakfast was particularly good, with plenty of homemade items.

Accommodation

Dominica does not have the large international hotel chains found on many other Caribbean islands.

In Roseau, I recommend the Fort Young Hotel. The hotel was originally built as a British fort in 1699.

Today, it occupies a prime location in the centre of Roseau, directly on the waterfront.

Fort Young is a local institution and has plenty of character.

Good rates are available through Booking.com.

Elsewhere on the island, you will find many smaller accommodation options. These include privately owned guesthouses, apartments and B&Bs.

Eating Out

A speciality on Dominica are the homemade spiced rums, some of which are very political!

Dominica’s cuisine has strong Creole and British influences. As a result, it is quite different from the food found on the neighbouring French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe.

The island’s tropical climate and rich volcanic soil support abundant agriculture. Dominica is often described as the “vegetable garden of the Antilles” because it exports fresh produce to neighbouring islands.

Local markets are a great place to see the variety of fruits and vegetables grown on the island.

Many of these ingredients also feature in local dishes.

Fishing remains an important industry, so fresh seafood is widely available.

Visa Requirements

Visa policy of Dominica.

Visa requirements vary according to nationality, although almost all nationalities (highlighted in green) can enter visa-free for a certain period of time.

Prior to travelling, it’s best to consult the Visa Policy of Dominica.

Getting There

Boats in Roseau port, Dominica.

By Air

Dominica has two airports:

Douglas-Charles Airport – the main airport, located on the east coast near Marigot.
Canefield Airport – located north of Roseau.

Canefield Airport currently has no scheduled commercial services. As a result, Douglas-Charles Airport (IATA: DOM) is the island’s main gateway for air travellers.

Flights to/ from Douglas-Charles Airport include:

Air Antilles Express – services to Martinique, Guadeloupe
Air Sunshine – services to Sint Maarten, Puerto Rico, Anguilla, Nevis, Tortola, Virgin Gorda
BVI Airways – services to Sint Maarten
LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Guadeloupe, Saint Lucia, Puerto Rico, Sint Maarten
Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
Winair – Services to Guadeloupe, Sint Maarten

Because airline routes change frequently, these historical routes should be checked before being used for current travel planning.

By Sea

Cruise Ship

A cruise ship docked at Roseau.

Cruise ships also regularly call at Roseau. Ships dock close to the town centre, directly in front of the Fort Young Hotel.

International Ferry Services

Dominica is well connected to neighbouring Caribbean islands by sea.

A scheduled ferry service connects Dominica with Martinique and Guadeloupe, with connections to other islands also possible.

Ferries depart from the port in Roseau.

The service is operated by the Guadeloupe-based Express des Îles.

Check the operator’s website for current schedules, fares and travel requirements.

Getting Around

My rental car on Dominica.

Getting around Dominica is relatively easy.

Taxis are readily available. Small buses and vans also operate along the main roads, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way.

However, I recommend hiring a car if you want to explore the island independently.

During my visit, I used and would recommend Courtesy Car Rentals. The company has offices in Roseau and at the airport.

Like several other Caribbean islands, Dominica requires visitors who drive to purchase a local driver’s licence. You can arrange this through your rental agency.

The main roads are paved, but many are steep, narrow and winding.

The Chinese-built highway along the coast between Roseau and Portsmouth was in excellent condition during my visit. The EU-built road between Roseau and Marigot was also in excellent condition.

However, many secondary roads are more challenging.

You can encounter potholes, steep drops without protective barriers and tight bends without road markings.

Therefore, drive carefully and allow plenty of time when exploring the island.

That’s the end of my Dominica Travel Guide.

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Safe Travels!

Darren