All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contactpage.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 236 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Equatorial Guinea Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2024
Introduction
Nestled along the coastline of Central Africa, Equatorial Guinea awaits the adventurous traveller with its lush rainforests, vibrant culture, and captivating history.
Malabo National Park, a manicured garden in the capital city, features eight zones for visitors to discover.
Despite being one of Africa’s smallest countries, this hidden gem boasts an array of experiences waiting to be discovered.
While gaining a tourist visa was once difficult, a change in government policy, and the introduction of an eVisa process has made it easier than ever to visit this once isolated tropical jewel.
I fully explain the new eVisa process in the Visa Requirements section below.
Located on Bioko Island, Malabo is the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
This guide covers my stay in Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
To travel outside the capital, visitors are required to apply for a Travel Authorisation which is issued by the Ministry of Tourism and takes 3-4 business days to process.
Local tour companies will arrange this permit for paying clients.
Finca Sampaka produces very fine chocolate, a short drive from downtown Malabo.
In a bid to diversify its economy away from declining oil revenues, Equatorial Guinea has now opened its doors to tourism.
Now is the opportune time to visit, before the hordes arrive!
Location
Malabo, Equatorial Guinea
Equatorial Guinea is situated on the west coast of Central Africa, bordered by Cameroon to the north and Gabon to the east and south.
Its unique location places it just north of the equator, giving the country its name.
A view of the port in Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea.
The country consists of a mainland region known as Rio Muni, along with several small offshore islands.
The largest of these islands is Bioko, also known as Fernando Po, located about 40 kilometres (25 miles) off the coast of Cameroon. Bioko is home to the capital city, Malabo.
One unique geographical feature is that the Equator passes through the country, specifically through the island of Corisco, making Equatorial Guinea one of the few countries in the world to be bisected by this imaginary line.
Overall, Equatorial Guinea’s location provides it with a diverse range of ecosystems, from coastal mangroves to dense rainforests, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in exploring varied landscapes and biodiversity.
People
Artwork at the Equatorial Guinea Cultural Centre in Malabo.
The population of this small but culturally rich nation is a mix of different ethnic groups, each contributing to the country’s unique identity.
The country is home to several ethnic groups, with the Fang being the largest. The Fang people primarily inhabit the mainland region of Rio Muni.
Other major ethnic groups include the Bubi on Bioko Island, the Ndowe, the Bujeba, and the Annobonese on the island of Annobón.
Each group has its own traditions, languages, and cultural practices, enriching the country’s cultural landscape.
The official languages of Equatorial Guinea are Spanish, French, and Portuguese due to its colonial history.
However, there are also several indigenous languages spoken across the country. Fang, Bubi, and Igbo are among the most widely spoken native languages.
A view of the interior of Saint Elizabeth’s Cathedral, the main cathedral in Malabo.
Religion in Equatorial Guinea reflects its historical influences.
The majority of the population identifies as Christian, with Roman Catholicism being the predominant denomination.
However, there are also followers of indigenous beliefs and Islam, particularly among some of the ethnic groups.
The Equatoguinean Cultural Centre in Malabo promotes local arts and culture.
Despite its small size, Equatorial Guinea’s population is a testament to the richness and diversity of African cultures.
The people, with their strong sense of identity and community, contribute to the country’s colorful mosaic of traditions and customs.
Worth checking out is the Equatoguinean Cultural Centre, which is housed in a beautiful, yellow, colonial building on the main street in Malabo.
The centre promotes local arts and culture and is always full of students who take advantage of the free WiFi, which is available in the central atrium.
Flag
The flag of Equatorial Guinea.
The flag of Equatorial Guinea was adopted on October 12, 1968, upon gaining independence from Spain.
It consists of three horizontal bands of green, white, and red, with a bluetriangle on the hoist side of the flag.
The green band symbolises the country’s natural resources, particularly its lush forests and vegetation. Green is also often associated with agriculture and the country’s hope for a prosperous future.
The white band represents peace and unity. It signifies the country’s aspirations for harmony among its diverse population and its commitment to peaceful coexistence.
Thered band symbolises the sacrifices made for independence and the bloodshed of the country’s martyrs. Red is a common color in many African flags, often representing the struggles for freedom.
The blue triangle on the hoist side of the flag represents the sea, as Equatorial Guinea is a coastal nation. Blue is also a color associated with the ocean and maritime activities.
A tiny, barely visible, Equatorial Guinea flag, flying upon the tallest flagpole in Malabo at Plaza of Equatorial Guinea.
In the centre of the flag is the national coat of arms of Equatorial Guinea.
The coat of arms features a silk cotton tree (Ceiba pentandra), which is a symbol of national prosperity.
Above the tree, there are six yellow six-pointed stars, representing the country’s mainland and five islands.
Below the tree, there is a banner bearing the national motto “Unidad, Paz, Justicia” (Unity, Peace, Justice).
Currency
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, which is the official currency of six central African nations.
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, which has the international currency code of XAF.
This currency is used by six countries in the Central African region, including Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Chad, Central African Republic, Congo-Brazzaville, and Gabon.
The CFA franc is pegged to the Euro, with a fixed exchange rate, providing stability in international transactions.
Currently, €1 = 655.96 CFA francs.
This peg has meant that travel costs in all countries in the CFA zone are much higher than costs on the non-CFA countries.
Almost a full set of (uncirculated) CFA franc banknotes – with the 2,000 missing!
Within Equatorial Guinea, the currency is issued and regulated by the Bank of Central African States (BEAC), which is the central bank for the Central African Economic and Monetary Community (CEMAC).
The bank is headquartered in Yaoundé, Cameroon, with the headquarters building featured on the front of all banknotes.
The CFA franc is denoted by the symbol “FCFA” or “XAF” and is available in both coins and banknotes.
Coins are available in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 500 francs, while banknotes are issued in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs.
Banking Services
The currency of Equatorial Guinea is the Central African CFA franc, abbreviated as XAF.
Credit Cards
Like almost all other African countries, cash is king in Equatorial Guinea with credit cards rarely accepted.
It is advisable to have some local currency on hand for all transactions, as well as U.S. dollars or Euros for larger purchases or in case of emergencies.
ATMs
ATMs are available in major cities like Malabo and Bata, where you can withdraw cash using international debit or credit cards.
Like many other African countries, Visa card is widely accepted in ATMs while Mastercard is accepted by just a few banks – such as Eco bank and Société Générale.
Costs
Menu prices, displayed at a café in the Malabo National Park.
Travel costs in Equatorial Guinea are typical of central African countries and of the CFA zone – i.e. higher than in other African countries.
This is not a budget-friendly destination for budget travellers.
The beer of choice in this former Spanish colony is San Miguel, which is brewed in Malaga, Spain.
Daytrip tour of Bioko Island with Rumbo Malabo: €285
WiFi
Despite being one of the wealthier countries in Africa, Equatorial Guinea has one of the slowest WiFi speeds in Africa.
The most frustrating thing you can do in Equatorial Guinea is to waste your time trying to use the incredibly slow internet.
WiFi speed test in Malabo which shows a typical download speed in Equatorial Guinea.
While the rest of the world measures WiFi speed in Mbps (megabits per second), in Equatorial Guinea, speed is still measured in kbps (kilobits per second).
Nowhere in the country did I experience anything faster than 512 kbps – i.e. the speed offered by an old-fashioned dial-up modem.
I performed internet speed tests in a number of locations, including at my hotel, and normally received download speeds of less than half a megabit per second (as indicated in the above screenshot).
An article on the Africa Report website states that downloading a 5GB movie took 734 minutes in the Republic of Congo, 788 minutes in Sao Tome, 850 minutes in Ethiopia, 965 minutes in Niger and 1,342 minutes in Equatorial Guinea.
There are various reasons for the slow internet speeds throughout Africa, including a lack of investment in infrastructure and also a desire by autocratic regimes (i.e. dictators) to hobble something which they consider to be a major threat to their hold on power.
Sightseeing
The Plaza of Equatorial Guinea is located on the Paseo Maritimo in Malabo.
Travel Authorisation
A special consideration for anyone wishing to venture beyond the capital of Malabo is the Travel Authorisation.
At police checkpoints around Bioko Island, you, or your tour company, will need to show this authorisation which is issued by the Department of Tourism and has a processing time of 3-4 days.
If you are travelling with a tour company, such as Rumbo Malabo, they can organise the authorisation in advance.
Malabo
The capital city of Equatorial Guinea, Malabo (pop: 297,000), is located on the northern coast of Bioko Island.
It’s a mix of Spanish colonial architecture and modern buildings.
While the government has built showpiece boulevards (especially connecting the new airport to downtown Malabo) which are lined with modern, glitzy office towers and ministry buildings, just behind this façade lies sprawling urban slums where many locals live in poverty.
St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral
St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral located in the city of Malabo.
This beautiful Roman Catholic cathedral in Malabo is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks and a first stop on most sightseeing tours of the city.
Named after St. Elizabeth of Hungary, the cathedral is built in a neo-Gothic style that emphasises its façade, flanked by two 40-metre-high (130 ft) towers, and a nave with two aisles.
A view of the interior of St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
Its construction began in 1897 with donations from parishioners, commercial companies and the Spanish government, for it was one of its colonies.
Designed by the architect, Luis Segarra Llairadó, the cathedral was inaugurated in 1916. The cathedral was seriously damaged by fire on January 16, 2020 while restoration work was underway. It has since been fully restored.
The copper doors at St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
For those interesting in photographing the beautiful interior, the cathedral is normally closed during the day, but opens for mass which is conducted each day at 12 noon.
A view of the beautiful interior of St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral in Malabo.
This is the only time for photographing the interior and its best to arrive around 11:45 am, before mass commences.
Plaza of Independence
A view of the cathedral from Plaza of Independence, Malabo.
Opposite the cathedral, the Plaza of Independence (Plaza de la Independencia) contains traces of the long period of Spanish colonialism.
At the centre of the plaza stands a fountain, made of Carrara marble, with a Ceiba tree (a national symbol) at its centre.
A view of one of the ten tiled benches in the Plaza of Independence in Malabo.
Surrounding the fountain is a series of ten tiled benches and tiled pergolas. These have been recently renovated using not Spanish – but Italian – handmade tiles.
Malabo National Park
A view of Malabo National Park, which is a large manicured garden built by the Chinese.
Built by the China Road and Bridge Corporation, Malabo National Park is not a national park but a manicured garden, which features 8 different zones.
This new park is next door to the airport, and covers an area of 870,000 sq metres. The park offers restaurants, a sports area, activities for children, a lake with jet-skis and boats and an art gallery.
A statue of Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, the president of Equatorial Guinea, at Malabo National Park.
As can be expected from a Chinese project, homage, in the form of a statue, is paid to the autocratic leader of Equatorial Guinea – Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo. The statue is installed just inside the main entrance gate.
The president is a former military officer who has served as the second president of Equatorial Guinea since 3 August 1979.
As of 2024, he is the second-longest consecutively serving current non-royal national leader in the world.
A very empty Malabo National Park provides an ideal retreat from bustling Malabo.
On the day of my visit, I was the only visitor in the park.
If you would rather not walk in the steamy tropical heat, you have the option to rent a bike and cycle around the park. There’s even a lake where you can rent a rowboat.
The sculpture plaza at Malabo National Park.
Of the eight zones – the Ethnic Customs Zone features a plaza lined with totem sculptures which depict local customs and beliefs.
Malabo National Park offers eight zones to explore plus a couple of cafes.
While the park is beautiful and pleasant to walk around, it’s somewhat soulless and surreal and reminded me of empty ‘showpiece’ parks in Turkmenistan!
Paseo Maritimo
A view along the Paseo Maritimo in Malabo.
Speaking of empty and soulless, the Paseo Maritimo is a wide paved Malecón which follows along the shore of the bay in Malabo.
Whenever I visited, I was the only one there!
There are a couple of empty cafés which serve meals and drinks.
Plaza of Equatorial Guinea
“I heart Guinea Equatorial” at the Plaza of Equatorial Guinea.
Installed at the centre of the Paseo Maritimo, the Plaza of Equatorial Guinea features the tallest flagpole in Malabo (with the smallest of flags fluttering somewhere at the top).
The (again empty) plaza features an “I heart Malabo” and “I heart Guinea Equatorial” signs.
Finca Sampaka
The driveway to Finca Sampaka is lined with towering palm trees.
Located on the southern outskirts of Malabo, Finca Sampaka is a cacao and coffee producing estate which dates from 1906.
Finca Sampaka was established on the outskirts of Malabo in 1906.
The name Sampaka is derived from the name of the original settler to the area, Samuel Parker, who emigrated from Liberia. The district in which the farm is located is called the Sampaka district.
Finca Sampaka export cacao and coffee beans around the world.
The farm, which has an area of about 1,000 hectares, is known for producing high quality cocoa and coffee.
The shop at Finca Sampaka, where you can purchase chocolate, coffee and even pepper, all of which is produced on the estate.
In the 1990s, the farm was incorporated into the CAMASA company who today produce high quality chocolate bars, coffee and even a local version of Nutella.
Cacao beans, in the processing laboratory at Finca Sampaka.
In the interest of research for this travel guide, I purchased a selection of chocolate products to sample. They were truly delicious!
Nothing beats the amazing aroma of freshly blended chocolate – seen here at Finca Sampaka.
Guided tours of the estate are available and should be booked through the Contact page of the company website.
The CAMASA company produce high quality chocolate bars, coffee and even a local version of Nutella.
One of their most versatile products is their Crema de Cacao which is a local version of Nutella and, as per the label, can be enjoyed on bread, with deserts and even with fruits. Nice!
Coffee beans for sale at Finca Sampaka.
While chocolate is the mainstay of the farm, they also have a coffee tree plantation which produces very flavourful beans, which can be purchased at the farm shop.
Accommodation
Malabo
Ibis Malabo
Suffering issues with dampness, the Ibis Malabo Hotel has been under renovation for more than one year, with the external cladding slowly being replaced.
Thanks to the many visiting oil and gas executives, Malabo is blessed with a good selection of hotels – most of which cater to visiting business travellers with hefty travel budgets!
My spacious and comfortable room at the Ibis Malabo Hotel.
During my time in Malabo, I stayed at the very nice Ibis Malabo Hotel.
Room rates start at €110 for a standard room without breakfast. Since there are no restaurants or cafes nearby, it’s best to add breakfast which is an additional €10.
The hotel, which suffers from issues relating to dampness, has been under renovation for more than a year, with its exterior cladding being replaced.
My spacious and comfortable room at the Ibis Malabo Hotel.
Like many hotels in Malabo, the Ibis is located in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by a few government ministry buildings and lots of green parkland.
To travel anywhere, you will need transport or you’ll need to flag a shared taxi from the road. A trip into the downtown area costs CFA 1,000,
All rooms feature the standard Ibis pod-bathroom.
Due to its isolated location, most guests tend to eat dinner in the hotel restaurant.
During my stay the hotel was empty so the restaurant most nights was empty.
The pool at the Ibis Malabo, which was never used.
The hotel features a pool and a large green garden but this too was always empty.
Eating Out
Malabo
Cafe Malabo
Located in the heart of Malabo, the comfortable and inviting Café Malabo serves good coffee and excellent food.
The standout restaurant in the downtown area is the comfortable and inviting Café Malabowhich is the preferred venue for locals, ex-pats and any tourists which have ventured to this remote corner of the world.
Café Malabo serves as a cafe, restaurant, winery and a concert space for local performers.
Cafe Malabo is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and serves a variety of international (with an emphasis on Spanish) and local dishes.
Another excellent Café con leche at Café Malabo.
Apart from its excellent cafe offerings, Café Malabo serves as a restaurant, winery and a concert space for local performers.
Visa Requirements
My immigration entry and exit stamps for Equatorial Guinea.
In the past, obtaining a visa to visit Equatorial Guinea was notoriously difficult.
However, this has now changed thanks to a change in policy by the Government of Equatorial Guinea who has implemented a policy of economic diversification as a result of falling oil revenues, the main source of income for the Equatorial Guinean economy.
Within the framework of this diversification of the economy, the tourism sector plays an important role.
To help boost tourist arrivals, a new eVisa website has been created which now allows visitors to apply online for a visa, which is usually granted, without fuss, in five business days.
Never has there been an easier time to visit Equatorial Guinea!
The Visa Policy map of Equatorial Guinea. Source: Wikipedia.
Applications for an eVisa for Equatorial Guinea, must be made at the eVisa website which was developed by VFS global, a Swiss company. As can be expected from anything created by the Swiss, the website functions very efficiently.
the application process is very straight-forward and will require you to upload the following:
A scan of the photo page of your passport.
A return flight ticket (all eVisa holders must arrive at Malabo International Airport). Note: your visa will be made valid for the dates of your flights only.
A confirmed hotel reservation covering all the nights of your stay in the country.
Finally, you must pay, online, the processing fee of US$75 which is non-refundable.
A copy of my eVisa payment receipt.
Once submitted, you will receive a receipt via email (as shown above).
After a processing time of 5-days you should receive your eVisa via email. This should be printed and presented upon arrival at Malabo International Airport.
When you arrive at Malabo airport, you will be simply stamped into and out of the country.
You will not receive a full-page visa in your passport.
Getting There
Departure board at Malabo International Airport.
Air
Malabo Airport
All international flights arrive at Malabo International Airport, or Saint Isabel Airport, (IATA: SSG) which is located on the island of Bioko. The airport is located 9 kilometres (5.6 mi) to the east of Malabo.
All eVisa holders must arrive at Malabo International Airport.
If you are arriving from a neighbouring African country, you can’t help but be impressed by the new modern, shiny terminal building with its 6 air-bridges which was built by a Chinese company, ABC Construcciones WEI.
Although there is plenty of retail space allocated inside the terminal, there are currently no shops and no cafes at the airport. You should bring any food and drinks you might need prior to your flight.
Test your knowledge with this currency quiz from taste2travel.
How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?
Don’t forget to share your results with friends using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.
Did you know?
There are many more travel quizzes on taste2travel, covering specific continents and subjects such as currencies, flags, maps, capital cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, museums and much more.
01. The Central African CFA franc is the official currency of how many central African countries?
Correct!Wrong!
There are six central African countries which form the Economic and Monetary Community of Central Africa: Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, and the Republic of the Congo.
02. If you were shopping in Paro, Bhutan, and spending the local currency, which would you be using?
Correct!Wrong!
Bhutan's unit of currency is called Ngultrum (BTN). A Ngultrum has the same value as the Indian rupee, which is also legal in Bhutan.
03. Which is the official currency of the island of Niue?
Correct!Wrong!
Niue, a country in free association with New Zealand, uses only one official legal tender currency, which is the New Zealand dollar.
04. Which official currency would you be spending if you were visiting Easter Island?
Correct!Wrong!
A region of Chile, the official currency on Easter Island is the Chilean Peso (CLP).
05. Which local currency would be be using if you were paying a restaurant bill in Warsaw?
Correct!Wrong!
The word “zloty” means “golden” in Polish.
06. Which is the unit of currency of Barbados?
Correct!Wrong!
The official currency in Barbados is the Barbadian Dollar (BBD).
07. Which is the unit of currency of Mauritania?
Correct!Wrong!
The ouguiya at one time spelled "ougiya", is the currency of Mauritania.
08. Which local currency would you be spending if you were holidaying on the island of Boracay?
Correct!Wrong!
The Philippine peso (PHP), or 'piso' in Filipino, is the official currency of the Philippines.
09. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting Paramaribo, the capital of Suriname?
Correct!Wrong!
The Surinamese dollar (SRD) has been the currency of Suriname since 2004.
10. Which is the official currency of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon?
Correct!Wrong!
The Euro is the official currency of this French territory which is located off the east coast of Canada.
11. On which island is the Eastern Caribbean dollar the official currency?
Correct!Wrong!
The Eastern Caribbean dollar is the official currency of eight Caribbean island countries: Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Dominica, Grenada, Montserrat, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, and Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.
12. Which is the unit of currency of Angola?
Correct!Wrong!
13. Which is the official currency of Libya?
Correct!Wrong!
The Libyan Dinar is the official currency of Libya.
14. Which currency would you be spending if you were holidaying on Norfolk Island?
Correct!Wrong!
A territory of Australia, the official currency of Norfolk Island is the Australian dollar.
15. Which currency would you be spending if you were visiting Ushuaia, the world's most southerly town and the gateway to Antarctica?
Correct!Wrong!
16. Which is the unit of currency of Curaçao?
Correct!Wrong!
The Netherlands Antillean guilder is the currency of Curaçao and Sint Maarten.
17. Which currency would you be spending if you were visiting Andorra?
Correct!Wrong!
Andorra signed a Monetary Agreement with the European Union on 30 June 2011. As a result, Andorra can use the euro as its official currency and issue its own euro coins.
18. Pictured here are the 5,000 and 10,000 franc banknotes from which country?
Correct!Wrong!
The Comorian franc is the official currency of the African island nation of Comoros. The Comoros franc (KMF) is pegged to the euro at an effective rate of 492 KMF to 1 EUR.
19. Which is the official unit of currency of Iran?
Correct!Wrong!
The Iranian rial is the official legal currency of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Although the rial is the official currency, Iranians use the toman in everyday life.
20. Which is the official currency of the British overseas territory of Pitcairn Islands?
Correct!Wrong!
The Pitcairn Islands is a British overseas territory which uses the New Zealand dollar as its primary currency. However, the territory has issued commemorative Pitcairn Islands dollar coins since 1988.
Travel Quiz 72: Currency Quiz
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All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contactpage.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 233 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Comoros Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: February 2024
Introduction
Tucked away in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, off the coast of east Africa, the Comoros Islands beckon travellers with their untouched beauty and captivating allure.
An octopus collector on Grand Comore, hunting for octopus at low tide.
Largely undeveloped and totally off the tourist radar, this unknown and hidden archipelago is a tapestry of volcanic landscapes, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality, waiting to be discovered.
The Comoros Islands, consisting of Grande Comore, Mohéli, Anjouan, and Mayotte, each offer a unique charm waiting to be explored.
The French administered Mayotte separately from the remainder of the Comoros beginning in 1975, when the three northernmost and predominantly Muslim islands of the Comoros declared independence, and the Muslim and Christian inhabitants of Mayotte chose to remain with France.
Mayotte Travel Guide
Mayotte, which is the most easterly of the four islands of the Comoran archipelago, is an overseas department of France, which is still claimed by the government of Comoros.
Having an outpost of the European Union located in close proximity to one of the poorest countries on the planet ensures that Mayotte is beset by a plethora of social issues which are the result of numerous Comoran refugees who travel illegally to the island by boat.
The main island. Grande Comore, is home to the capital, Moroni, and the only international airport in the country.
The island is dominated by the towering Mount Karthala (2,361 metre / 7,746 feet), an active volcano which occasionally erupts, covering the island in jet-black lava boulders.
A view of Maloudja Beach on Grand Comore.
In between the black lava flows lie stunning, white sand beaches, which are lapped by the azure waters of the Indian Ocean.
Comoros is a true paradise which still remains largely undeveloped. While the neighbouring island nations of Seychelles and Mauritius have fine-tuned their tourism offering, tourism remains undeveloped on Comoros. There are just five hotels listed on Booking.com on the main island of Grande Comore.
Comoros is home to many large Baobab trees.
Beyond the natural beauty of the islands lies the heart of the Comoros – its people.
Comoros is a safe and welcoming destination.
The warm smiles of locals welcome you as you delve into the rich tapestry of Comorian culture, which has been influenced from centuries of trade with Africa, Arabia and Asia.
Despite the entire island being covered in black volcanic lava, there are plenty of white sand beaches on Grand Comore.
The Comoros Islands offer an authentic Indian Ocean travel experience that is as captivating as it is unforgettable.
It’s a destination which is ideal for intrepid travellers who seek to get off the well-worn tourist circuit, and of course for the country-counters who are determined to visit all 193 UN countries.
Location
Moroni, Comoros
The Comoros Islands are located about 320 km (200 mi) off the eastern coast of Africa, in close proximity to Tanzania, Mozambique and Madagascar.
An archipelago nation, the Comoros consist of four main islands.
Grande Comore
Mohéli
Anjouan
Mayotte (an overseas department of France, geographically part of the Comoros but politically distinct)
A view of Grande Comore Island, which is covered in black lava.
The islands are of volcanic origin, with Mount Karthala on Grande Comore being an active volcano and one of the tallest peaks in the Indian Ocean.
People
The people of the Comoros, known as Comorians (population: 820,000) are a diverse and culturally rich population with a unique ethnic blend of African, Arab, and Malagasy, which reflects the islands’ history of trade and settlement.
The official languages of the Comoros are Comorian, French, and Arabic. Comorian is widely spoken among the population, with different dialects spoken on each of the main islands.
Islam is the dominant religion in the Comoros, with the majority of Comorians adhering to Sunni Islam. The practice of Islam plays a central role in daily life, culture, and traditions.
Flag
The flag of the Comoros.
The flag of Comoros was officially adopted on January 7, 2002, following a national referendum. The current design was chosen to better reflect the unity, history, and aspirations of the Comorian nation.
A souvenir Comoran flag.
The flag design consists of a white crescent with four white five-pointed stars inside of a green triangle.
The flag has four stripes, representing the four main islands of the nation: yellowfor Mohéli, white for Mayotte (a French department claimed by the Comoros), red for Anjouan and bluefor Grande Comore.
The four stars on the flag also symbolise the four islands. The star and crescent, as well as the colour green on the flag, symbolise the main religion of the country – Islam.
Currency
The Comorian franc is the official currency of the Comoros.
The official currency of Comoros is the Comorian franc (FC), which has the currency code of KMF.
The Comorian franc is issued and regulated by the Central Bank of the Comoros, which is the country’s central monetary authority.
It is used for all financial transactions within the country, including daily purchases, business transactions, and banking operations.
Credit cards are rarely accepted on the Comoros.
A view of the obverse side of Comoran franc banknotes, which feature Arabic script.
Banknotes, which are printed by the Bank of France, are issued in denominations of 500 FC, 1,000 FC, 2,000 FC, 5,000 FC, 10,000 FC.
Coins are issued in denominations of 25 FC, 50 FC, 100 FC, 250 FC.
Credit Cards
In the few places on Comoros where credit cards are accepted, only Visa card is accepted.
Like so many countries in Africa, credit cards are rarely accepted on the Comoros. Cash is king!
This lack of credit card acceptance is due to the fact that 95% of Africans do not have a bank account and hence, do not own any plastic bank cards. All transactions are conducted in cash!
The only businesses which accept credit cards are a couple of the better hotels which deal with foreign tourists.
Throughout Comoros, whenever credit cards are accepted, only Visa card is accepted.
If you are using Mastercard, American Express or any other card, you will find your card is not accepted.
A very frustrating experience!
BFC bank in Moroni provides the one ATM in the Comoros which accepts Mastercard and American Express.
The one lifeline, for non-Visa card holders, is the single ATM which is installed at the Moroni branch of Banque Fédérale des Commerce (BFC), which is the main commercial bank on the Comoros Islands.
Because they are the main business bank for the country, they feel it is appropriate that they accept all major credit cards.
The only ATMs on Grand Comore are located in downtown Moroni.
There are no ATMs at the airport. It is essential to arrive on the Comoros with either EUR or USD cash!
Costs
Travel costs on Comoros are the highest of any country in eastern Africa!
Sample costs:
Cappuccino? – I found nowhere on Comoros which offered barista-made coffee.
Can of Coke/ Sprite: €1.50
Small bottled water: €0.50
Imported Beer: €7.50
Meal at a mid-range restaurant: €10
Meal at the Golden Tulip Hotel: €15
Hotel room at the Golden Tulip Hotel: €130
Daytrip tour with Adore Comore tour company: €80 per person (minimum of 2 people)
Tour Companies
My guide, from Adore Comore, at Lac Salé.
While on Grand Comore, I toured the island with an excellent guide from the Adore Comore tour company.
The company offers a range of daytrips which are priced from €80 per person (minimum 2 pax).
As a single pax, I had to pay €160 for a day trip which makes for an expensive outing.
During our day trip, our car suffered a punctured tire which was not surprising considering the terrible condition of the roads.
Sightseeing
Grand Comore, also known as Ngazidja, is the largest and most populous island in the Comoros archipelago. It offers a diverse range of sights and attractions for visitors to explore.
The island is dominated by Mount Karthala, an active shield volcano and the highest point in the Comoros. It stands at approximately 2,361 metres (7,746 feet) above sea level.
Moroni
A view of Moroni harbour and the historic Friday Mosque.
Moroni, the capital of the Comoros, lies in the shadow of Mount Karthala, on the west coast of Grand Comore.
The iconic view of Moroni is of the (heavily polluted) harbour and the Friday Mosque (Mosquée de Vendredi), which was constructed in 1427, without a minaret. It wasn’t until 1921 that a minaret was finally added.
As the main commercial centre on the Comoros, chaotic Moroni is home to a bustling market.
Lac Salé (Salt Lake)
A view of Lac Salé, where the water colour fluctuates between blue, brown and green.
A highlight of Grand Comore is Lac Salé, or Salt Lake, a unique geological formation located on the north coast of Grand Comore.
The lake’s high salinity creates striking contrasts of colors, with the water colour fluctuating (throughout the day) between blue, brown and green.
The colour of the lake water contrasts strongly with the turquoise waters of the adjacent Indian Ocean.
Dos du Dragon
“Dos du Dragon,” or the dragon’s back, looks like a mythical creature, resting by the sea.
Located a short drive beyond the Salt Lake, Dos du Dragon, or the “dragon’s back” is a rocky protrusion jutting out into the Indian Ocean.
Mitsamiouli Beach
A view of beautiful Mitsamiouli Beach.
Located on the northwest coast of Grande Comore, beautiful MitsamiouliBeach is home to a pretty stretch of white-sand, surrounded by black volcanic lava and backed by a line of palm trees.
A Comoran family, enjoying a day out at Mitsamiouli Beach.
The government of Qatar, through the Qatar National Hotels Company, is currently building a new beachside resort in Mitsamiouli.
For this reason, the road between the airport and Mitsamiouli has been completely resurfaced and is currently the best road anywhere in the Comoros.
Sada Beach
A view of Sada Beach at low tide.
Sada Beach is home to a small community of expat holiday houses.
Most of the large homes that line the coast are boarded up since most of the residents are only in-country for a few weeks at a time.
Giant Baobab Tree
The giant Baobab tree.
Located near the airport, a huge, hollow, Baobab tree makes for an interesting stop while driving along the west coast.
My guide, from Adore Comoros, providing a sense of scale for this giant Baobab tree.
A large opening at the base of the tree allows access into a lofty, hollow, chamber which provides an interesting perspective on the world.
A view inside the hollow of the giant Baobab tree.
Accommodation
There is a very limited number of accommodation options on the Comoros, with bookimg.com listing just 5 properties on Grande Comore.
Golden Tulip Hotel
The Golden Tulip Hotel offers the best accommodation on the Comoros.
The only international chain hotel on the Comoros is the Golden Tulip Hotel which offers the best accommodation in the country.
The hotel is located on the west coast of Grande Comore, 10 km south of the airport and 10 km north of the capital, Moroni.
A public taxi from the airport to the hotel costs 5,000 KMF (€10) while the hotel charges 15,000 KMF (€30) for an airport shuttle.
Apart from its comfortable rooms, the hotel offers a very good restaurant which attracts both guests and visiting locals who come for all sorts of functions and events.
The hotel offers the best restaurant on the island and the only conference/ meeting room facilities, which ensures a steady stream of corporate guests.
My spacious and comfortable room at the Golden Tulip Hotel, Comoros.
A standard room on booking.com costs around US$130 with payment options at the hotel limited to cash or Visa credit card.
The hotel does not accept Mastercard or American Express.
One way to stay at the hotel, and pay with any credit card, is to book a room through expedia.com and select the option to ‘Pay in Advance‘. This will allow you to pay with any credit card via Expedia.
The hotel offers spacious and comfortable, albeit slightly dated, rooms which overlook the palm-tree studded garden and unbeatable views of the Indian Ocean.
A view of the garden, and the Indian Ocean, from my room at the Golden Tulip Hotel.
The hotel also features its own private beach and a family of giant tortoises which act as lawn mowers, gradually grazing their way around the hotel lawn.
The lawn at the Golden Tulip Hotel is kept in good order thanks to a family of grazing tortoises.
Reverse Money Exchange:
Comoran francs cannot be exchanged outside of the country and it can be difficult to change excess francs back into hard currency at the end of your trip.
I was able to exchange excess francs, for both EUR and USD, at the reception desk at the Golden Tulip Hotel.
A great service for departing guests.
Hôtel La Grillade
A view of the Hôtel La Grillade, which is located a short drive north of Moroni.
Also located on the west coast, 1 km north of Moroni, the mid-range Hôtel La Grillade offers very average rooms for about €80 per night.
I would rate the hotel as 1-2 stars and not worth the money that is being charged.
Payment is either cash or Visa card only!
The hotel has a decent restaurant which offers reasonable food.
A public taxi from the airport to the hotel costs 5,000 KMF (€10) while the hotel charges 10,000 KMF (€20) for an airport shuttle.
Eating Out
Every day at low tide, hordes of locals search for octopus in tidal rock pools.
The cuisine of Comoros reflects influences from Africa, Arabia, Madagascar and beyond. As can be expected on an island nation, seafood dominates the diet with fish, octopus and lobster especially popular.
Golden Tulip Hotel
Breakfast, with a view of the Indian Ocean, at the Golden Tulip Hotel.
The outdoor, ocean-front, restaurant at the Golden Tulip Hotel is one of the most popular restaurants on Grande Comore.
The best breakfast, anywhere on Grande Comore, is served on the balcony of the restaurant, with a front-row seat overlooking the azure waters of the Indian Ocean.
A delicious, seared-tuna, salad, served at the Golden Tulip Hotel.
Specialties include lobster and a very tasty seared-tuna salad which is made from freshly caught tuna.
Hotel La Grillade
The restaurant menu at the Hotel La Grillade features locally caught lobster, which is very affordable at €12.
While the rooms at Hotel La Grillade are very average, the food served in the restaurant by the friendly staff is anything but average!
Their lobster meal, which costs just €12, is an absolute bargain.
I also recommend their fillet steak, which is served with a creamy pepper sauce! Delicious!
Highly recommended!
Sada Beach Restaurant
My lunch stop at Sada Beach during a trip to the north of Grande Comore.
During a trip to the north coast of Grande Comore with Adore Comoros, I had lunch at a rustic beachfront restaurant at Sada Beach.
My tasty, and spicy, freshly caught, tuna curry lunch at Sada Beach.
Owned by a Comoran couple, the husband used to work as a chef in a nearby resort, until the resort closed.
I was treated to a beautiful tuna curry with salad, rice, plantains and more. Very nice!
Visa Requirements
My Comoros Visa-on-Arrival (VOA) which was issued without fuss at Moroni International Airport.
The Visa Policy of Comoros is wonderfully simple.
All nationalities require a visa which can be purchased on arrival at Moroni International Airport.
Visas cost €30, or US$50, for stays of up to 45 days.
Free of charge visas are issued to transit visitors with a stay for a maximum of 24 hours
All visitors must hold a passport valid for 6 months and return or onward tickets.
My visa was issued, without fuss, by friendly immigration officers in about 10-minutes.
Getting There
Ethiopian Airlines flies daily from Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) to Moroni, via Dar es Salaam (Tanzania).
Air
All visitors arrive at Moroni International Airport, aka Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport (IATA: HAH), the only international gateway to the Comoros.
The airport is located on the west coast of Grande Comore, 20 km (12 mi) north of Moroni.
The following airlines provide service to/ from Moroni:
Air Austral – flies to/from Saint-Denis de la Réunion
Air Madagascar – flies to/from Antananarivo, Majunga
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This is a Commonwealth Country Flags Quiz from taste2travel!
How well do you know your Commonwealth country flags?
Are you a true vexillologist?
Test your knowledge with this Commonwealth Flags quiz from taste2travel.
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01. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The design of the flag of Namibia consists of a white-edged red diagonal band, creating two triangles - the upper blue triangle is charged with a yellow sun with 12 rays, and a lower green triangle.
The sun is to represent life and energy, red for heroism of the people and their determination to build a future of equal opportunity. Green is for agricultural resources, blue is for the sky and the ocean, white for peace and unity.
02. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The design of the flag of Uganda consists of two sets of black, yellow and red horizontal bands.
The black is for the African people, yellow for the African sunshine, and red being the colour of the African brotherhood - being the colour of blood, through which all African people are connected.
In the centre of the field is a white disc charged with the national emblem, which is a grey crowned crane, facing the hoist side.
The cranes raised leg is for the forward movement of the country.
03. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Canada consists of a red field with a white square at its centre, positioned inside which is an 11 pointed red maple leaf. Due to this distinctive design feature, the Canadian flag is sometimes referred to colloquially as the "Maple Leaf".
04. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
Although Rwanda never had any historical ties to the United Kingdom, it chose to join the Commonwealth of Nations in 2009 to take advantage of the diplomatic and economic ties that membership would bring.
This Rwandan flag design consists of a tri-colour of blue, yellow and green, with the blue stripe being the widest and the yellow and green of equal size. The blue stripe is charged with a yellow sun situated in the upper right corner of the fly side.
Symbolically, the blue band is for happiness and peace, the yellow band economic development and the yellow sun for enlightenment. The lower green band is for the hope of prosperity. The design of the Rwandan flag was adopted in 2001 and was chosen to avoid any connotations to the genocide in 1994. The new design as a whole is said to represent national unity, respect for work, confidence in the future and heroism.
05. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The design of the flag of Sierra Leone is a tri-colour of green, white and blue with the green symbolising the country's natural resources, agriculture and the mountains. White is for unity and justice, and blue is for the harbour of Freetown, the Capital city of Sierra Leone.
06. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
This design of the New Zealand flag was adopted in 1902 and consists of a blue field with a Union Jack in the upper left corner of the hoist side (the Canton) and 4 red stars, bordered with white on the fly side of the flag - these are based on the Southern Cross.
The stars of the Southern Cross represent the country's location in the South Pacific Ocean while the Union Jack recognises NZ's historical origins as a British colony.
07. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
When Belize became Independent in 1981, this flag design was adopted. The Belize flag consists of a blue background, red borders top and bottom, and Coat of Arms in the middle.
The Coat of Arms is said to represent the logging industry that first lead the British to settle there. The colours represent the country's national parties, the red being added after the United Democrats Party objected to the flag only being blue and white originally as that was the People's United Party's representatives colours.
08. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
Although Mozambique never had any historical ties to the United Kingdom, it chose to join the Commonwealth of Nations in 1995 to take advantage of the diplomatic and economic ties that membership would bring.
This flag of Mozambique was adopted in 1983 and consists of a tri-colour flag of green, black and yellow stripes edged with white. On the hoist side there is an isosceles triangle in red with a yellow star in the centre. Superimposed on the star is an AK-47 with a bayonet attached to the barrel crossed over a farming mattock over an open book.
Green stands for the riches of the land, the white edging for peace. Black is for the African continent, yellow for the countries mineral and red the struggle for independence. The rifle stands for defense and vigilance, the open book for the importance of education, the hoe represents the country's agriculture. The star symbolises Marxism and internationalism.
09. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
An iconic flag - the Union Jack consists of the red cross of Saint George (patron saint of England, which also represents Wales), edged in white, superimposed on the saltire of Saint Patrick (patron saint of Ireland), also edged in white, which are superimposed on the saltire of Saint Andrew (patron saint of Scotland). Wales is not represented in the Union Flag by Wales's patron saint, Saint David, because the flag was designed whilst Wales was part of the Kingdom of England.
10. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The Zambian flag's colours and emblems are rich in symbolism. Each of the four colours represents an aspect of Zambia: green for the country's natural resources and vegetation; red for its struggle for freedom; black for its people and orange for its mineral wealth (primarily copper).
The eagle is an African fish eagle, which also appears in the national coat of arms and represents the people's ability to rise above the nation's problems.
11. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The Tanzania flag was adopted in 1964 when Tanganyika and Zanzibar merged and the current flag design was created to replace the two individual flags. This design incorporates elements of both of the former flags - it consists of a black diagonal stripe edged in yellow, dividing the upper green triangle from the lower blue triangle.
The green represents the natural vegetation and agricultural resources of the country. The black is to represent the Swahili people who are native to Tanzania. The blue is for the Indian ocean and numerous lakes and rivers of the land. The thin yellow stripes represent the mineral wealth of Tanzania.
12. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The colours of the flag of the Bahamas carry cultural, political, and regional meanings.
The gold alludes the shining sun – as well as other key land-based natural resources – while the aquamarine epitomises the water surrounding the country. The black symbolises the vigour, and force of the Bahamian people, while the directed triangle evokes their "enterprising and determined" nature to cultivate the abundant natural resources on the land and in the sea.
13. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
This current design of the Guyana flag was adopted in 1966 and is known as the 'golden arrowhead'.
This design came about when Guyana became independent from the United Kingdom.
The design consists of a green field with a black edged red isosceles triangle based on the hoist side, on top of a larger yellow triangle with a white border.
The symbolism of the colours of the Guyana flag are as follows - green for the agricultural and forests, white for many rivers of the country. Gold for the mineral wealth, red for zeal and sacrifice in nation-building, and black represents perseverance.
14. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The design of the flag of South Africa consists of a horizontal red stripe on the top, and an equal blue stripe on the bottom. These stripes are divided by a green band running towards the hoist side of the flag, where it splits into a wide horizontal Y shape.
The green band is bordered by thin white stripes running along the top and bottoms sides. Inside the Y shape is a black isosceles triangle edged with narrow yellow stripes.
The colours themselves are noted to 'not have any essential meaning' however the colours come from different sources. Black green and yellow are from the African National Congress while the blue white and red are found in both the former flag of South Africa and the flag of the United Kingdom.
15. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The colours and symbols of the Tongan flag carry cultural, political, and regional meanings. The red cross alludes to Christianity, the religion practiced by approximately 97% of the country's population. It is one of 28 national flags to contain overtly Christian symbols.
The white epitomizes purity, while the red evokes the sacrifice of the Blood of Christ, which was shed during the Crucifixion.
16. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
This flag was adopted after a competition was held in 1967 to design a new flag, to mark the achievement of self-government.
The colours of the Antigua and Barbuda flag represent different elements, with the yellow, blue and white standing for the sea, the sun and the sand, while the black and red represent the African ancestry of the people, and red for energy or the life of the people. The blue also represents the Caribbean sea, while the V shape of the design represents Victory.
17. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The Malawi flag design consists of a horizontal tri-band of black, red and green stripes. The black stripe has a red rising sun with 31 rays. Symbolically, the 31 rays represent that Malawi was the 31st African nation at the time to gain independence.
The black is for the indigenous people of the land, red for the blood of their struggle and green to represent nature.
18. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The red field on the Singapore flag symbolises "universal fellowship and equality", while the white filed symbolises "pervading and everlasting purity and virtue".
The crescent moon represents a "young nation on the ascendant". The five stars stand for the nation's ideals of "democracy, peace, progress, justice and equality".
The crescent symbol is also seen by the nation's Muslim activists to represent Islam.
19. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The Islamic green of the flag of Pakistan represents the Muslim-majority populace of Pakistan while the white stripe on the hoist-end represents its various religious minorities i.e. Non-Muslims, such as Hindus, Christians, Sikhs, Zoroastrians and others.
The combined star and crescent serve as a symbol of Islam, with the crescent representing progress and the five-pointed star representing light and knowledge. The flag symbolises Pakistan's commitment to both Islam as well as the rights of religious minorities.
20. This is the flag of which Commonwealth country?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of the Seychelles consists of five different coloured bands (blue, yellow, red, white, and green) starting from one end and diverging towards the other end.
The oblique bands symbolise a dynamic new country moving into the future. The colour blue depicts the sky and the sea that surrounds the Seychelles. Yellow is for the sun which gives light and life, red symbolises the people and their determination to work for the future in unity and love, while the white band represents social justice and harmony. The green depicts the land and natural environment.
Travel Quiz 70: Commonwealth Country Flags Quiz
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To read about this destination, please refer to my Niue Travel Guide.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 230 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
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Affectionally known as ‘The Rock’, the tiny Pacific Ocean island of Niue is a charming, remote, off-the-beaten track destination.
A raised limestone reef with no beaches, but plenty of cliffs and reef, Niue is affectionally known as ‘The Rock’.
With a small and friendly population of 1,620 Polynesians, tiny Niue is full of surprises. The name Niue (pronounced ‘Noo-ay‘) translates as ‘behold the coconut’.
A raised slab of limestone reef, the profile of Niue is similar to that of a ‘top hat’, with sheer cliffs rising up 20 metres from the sea, forming the sides of the hat.
Colourful Niuean design.
The top of the hat is a large flat plateau, while the ‘rim’ of the hat is a fringing reef which surrounds the entire island. There are just a few places where narrow channels through the reef allow locals to access the sea.
Niue is entirely surrounded by a fringing reef.
The entire population lives on the plateau, with everyone living along the coast, while the empty interior of the island is uninhabited and occupied by forest and taro fields.
Niue Blue! Another perfect day in paradise!
A 62 km (38 mi) ring road around the coast links all of the island’s communities. Two cross-island roads link the west and east coast, a drive of just 19 km (12 mi).
Artwork in Alofi.
Most of population lives on the west coast (the leeward side of the island), in and around the main town, and administrative centre of Alofi.
The east coast (the windward side of the island) is sparsely populated, being home to a few sleepy villages.
A hidden gem – tiny Tamakautoga Beach is one of the few beaches on Niue.
Being surrounded by a fringing reef, Niue lacks the sandy beaches which might otherwise attract the tourist hordes. However, what the island lacks in beaches, it makes up for in other ways.
A view of Talava Arch, a highlight of Niue.
The entire coast is lined with dramatic limestone caves, chasms, arches and other geological wonders.
Well maintained sea tracks provide access to turquoise-blue swimming holes where a rich array of tropical fish can be found. There are many snorkeling opportunities on the island.
Close to the shore, the water depth is around 50 metres, while a few kilometres from shore, the water depth is 2,000 metres.
Beyond the reef, the island slopes away quickly, with water depths ranging from 50 m (165 ft) near the shore, to a depth of over 2,000 m (6,560 ft) within a few kilometres of shore.
Scuba Diving conditions on Niue are perfect! With an absence of sand and a lack of rivers on the island, there is nothing that disturbs the incredible clarity of the sea water. Water visibility is excellent up to 85 metres.
With excellent underwater visibility, Niue is a scuba diver’s paradise.
There is one scuba diving shop on the island – the excellent and professional Niue Blue. I did a 2-tank dive with them which was a highlight of my trip. For more information, please refer to the ‘Scuba Diving‘ section below.
Enjoying scuba diving on Niue with Niue Blue.
While not a cheap destination (please refer to the ‘Costs‘ section below for more information), Niue is a charming, surprising and engaging destination.
With a small and friendly local population, this tiny island will surprise and delight with all it offers.
A view of the north coast of Niue at Uluvehi.
In just over 3-hours flying time from Auckland, New Zealand, visitors to Niue will find themselves transported to another world. With its Jurassic-like geological formations and crystal-clear waters, Niue is like no other destination!
Highly recommended!
Location
Niue is a small island nation located in the South Pacific Ocean. It is situated about 2,400 kilometres (about 1,500 miles) northeast of New Zealand, within the triangle formed by the Cook Islands, Tonga, and Samoa.
Niue is known as a raised coral atoll, and its terrain is characterized by limestone cliffs, caves, and a central plateau.
A view of the reef which completely encircles Niue.
The island has a total land area of about 260 square kilometres (100 square miles).
The coastline features a fringing reef which is backed by rugged cliffs.
Not a place for a beach holiday, Niue is a raised limestone rock, completely surrounded by reef.
The capital and largest village is Alofi, located on the western coast of the island.
While Niue is a relatively small and isolated island, it is surrounded by the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, making it a remote but scenically beautiful destination.
Sunset on Niue.
The island’s isolation and unique geography contribute to its distinct cultural and environmental characteristics.
A noticeboard on Niue illustrates cyclone intensity levels. Watch what happens to the tree at each level.
Niue is located in the Pacific cyclone zone and has been battered by severe cyclones in the past.
In 2004, Cyclone Heta, a Category 5 cyclone, caused massive damage to Niue, with huge waves breaking on top of the (20 metre high) sea cliffs.
People
The 1,620 inhabitants of Niue are predominantly Polynesians.
The people of Niue are known as Niueans. Home to a small, close-knit community of 1,620 souls, the population is, predominately, of Polynesian descent.
Due to its small population and close-knit community, social relationships are often tightly woven, and individuals often have multiple roles within the community.
Religion, particularly Christianity, is also an important aspect of Niuean life, and the majority of the population is affiliated with various Christian denominations.
Niueans are known for their warm hospitality and strong sense of community.
Colourful artwork adorns a small wooden building in Alofi.
The culture places a high value on respect for elders and a communal approach to decision-making. Traditional customs and practices, such as dance, music, and art, play a significant role in Niuean life.
The Niuean language, closely related to other Polynesian languages, is an essential part of their cultural identity.
In recent years, Niue has faced challenges related to depopulation, with some Niueans migrating to New Zealand and other countries for better economic opportunities.
However, efforts are being made to preserve and promote Niuean culture and identity both on the island and within the diaspora.
Niuean Hiapo
Hiapo art work on display at the Niue Visitors Centre in Alofi.
Traditional bark cloth painting is something which is found throughout the islands of the south Pacific.
On Niue this lost art form, which is known locally as Hiapo, is being revived by Niuean artist Cora-Allan Wickliffe.
Hiapo art work on display at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Examples of Hiapo art adorn the walls of the Niue Visitors Centre and the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Flag
The flag of Niue.
The flag of Niue was adopted on 15 October 1975. It consists of the Union Jack in the upper left corner with a star in the middle of the Union Jack and four stars forming a diamond around it.
It is very unusual for a flag based on a British ensign design, in having not only a yellow background, but also a defaced (edited) Union Jack in the canton.
The flag of Niue, flying on Niue.
The flag was designed by Patricia Rex, the wife of the then-Premier Robert Rex.
The design elements of the flag include the Union Jack, which symbolises the protection granted by the United Kingdom in 1900 after petitioning by the Kings and Chiefs of Niue.
The yellow field symbolises “the bright sunshine of Niue and the warm feelings of the Niuean people towards New Zealand and her people.”
The association with New Zealand, which took over responsibility and administration of Niue in 1901, is also represented by the four small stars that depict the Southern Cross.
The flag of Niue.
Finally, the blue disc containing a larger star represents the deep blue sea surrounding the self-governing island of Niue
Currency
The official currency of Niue is the New Zealand Dollar (NZD).
The official currency of Niue is the New Zealand Dollar (NZD). Niue does not have its own separate currency and has chosen to use the New Zealand Dollar as its official legal tender.
The colourful New Zealand dollar banknotes are printed on polymer.
This arrangement is part of Niue’s status as a self-governing territory in free association with New Zealand.
As a result, the New Zealand Dollar is widely used for everyday transactions, and the Reserve Bank of New Zealand is responsible for issuing and regulating the currency in Niue. The coins and banknotes used in Niue are the same as those used in New Zealand.
Exchange Rates
The New Zealand dollar (NZD) is the official currency of Niue.
As of December 2023, the exchange rate between the NZD and USD was:
$1 NZD = $0.60 USD
To check the current exchange rate, please click here.
The bank also serves as the one branch of the Niue Post Office.
ATMs
While there are no ATMs on Niue, cash can be accessed at the one branch of the Niue Development Bank in Alofi.
There are no ATMs on Niue, but you can withdraw cash at the one branch of the Niue Development Bank which is located in Alofi.
Credit Cards
Credit cards, such as MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted on Niue.
Most merchants on the island have EFTPOS terminals and prefer cashless payments.
Rarely did I need to use cash, however, it’s prudent to carry some cash from New Zealand for emergencies.
While your home bank will most likely charge you an ‘exchange’ fee for any overseas credit card transactions, businesses on Niue will additionally charge you a credit card usage fee, which is typically around 3-5% on each transaction.
Philately
The stamps of Niue are popular with philatelists around the world.
Niue is known for issuing a variety of colourful and thematic postage stamps.
Stamps are often issued to commemorate special occasions, anniversaries, and international events, making them not only a means of postage but also a form of cultural expression and representation for the people of Niue.
The stamps of Niue showcase local culture, history, fauna and flora.
These stamps often feature unique designs that showcase the natural beauty, culture, history, and important events related to Niue.
The themes of Niuean stamps can vary widely, including marine life, endemic flora and fauna, cultural symbols, historical figures, and significant events.
The stamps of Niue feature scenes from this beautiful Pacific island.
Niue is part of the wider philatelic community and often collaborates with other countries on joint stamp issues. These joint issues may commemorate shared historical or cultural connections.
Niue Philatelic and Numismatic Corporation
The office of the Niue Philatelic and Numismatic Corporation (NPNC) is in a small shopping complex behind Swanson’s supermarket.
While on the island, stamps can be purchased from either the one branch of Niue Post which is housed inside the Niue Development Bank branch in Alofi or from the Niue Philatelic and Numismatic Corporation (NPNC), which is in a small shopping complex, behind Swanson’s supermarket.
Niue First Day Covers (FDC’s) at the Niue Philatelic and Numismatic Corporation.
Also available from the NPNC are specially issued Niue commemorative coins, which are produced by the New Zealand Mint.
Folders of Niue stamps at the NPNC.
The staff at the NPNC can be contacted for any overseas orders.
The stamps of Niue feature local flora, fauna, landscapes and cultural and historical themes.
Internet Services
Telecom Niue is the only telecom service provider on the island.
One of the first stops for many visitors to Niue is the office of Telecom Niue, the sole provider of telecom services on the island.
Telecom Niue does not have any international roaming agreements with foreign operators; therefore, you cannot use roaming while in Niue.
The Visitor SIM package from Telecom Niue.
If you wish to have internet connection while on Niue, you will need to buy a Visitor SIM card, which can be purchased from theTelecom Niue office which is located in the Alofi Commercial Centre.
All services are provided on a fast 4G network. However, if there is a power outage in Alofi (as happened several times during my stay), internet is lost across the entire island.
A Visitor SIM costs NZ$50, is valid for 14 days and includes 6GB of data, plus unlimited local calls, and 10 minutes of calls to Australia or New Zealand.
Costs
The menu at the popular Fana Cafe.
Most people visit Niue for 7 nights, which coincides with the flight schedule. With a 2nd weekly flight now operating, it is possible to visit for 3 nights.
The cost of a holiday on Niue isn’t cheap, with the biggest expenses being flights, accommodation, car rental and food. Everything really!
Sample Costs:
Coca Cola (1.5 litre bottle) at Swanson’s: NZ$7.50 (US$4.70)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): NZ$1.80 (US$1.13)
Can of beer at Crow’s Nest: NZ$5.00 (US$3.13)
Cafe Latte at the Crazy Uga Cafe: NZ$5 (US$3.13)
Scrambled eggsbreakfast at Fana Cafe: NZ$15 (US$9.40)
Fish and chip meal at Crow’s Nest: NZ$11 (US$6.90)
Meal at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue: NZ$30+ (US$18.80+)
Room at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue: NZ$250+ (US$156+)
Airbnb cottage (David’s Fale): NZ$160 (US$100)
Return flights to Niue from Auckland with Air New Zealand: NZ$800 return (USD$500)
Shopping
Niue sarongs for sale at Niue International Airport.
Tahiono Art Gallery
Ahi Cross, who, along with her husband, artist – Mark Cross – operate the Tahiono Art Gallery in Alofi.
As can be expected on a tiny, remote island, shopping opportunities are limited. There are a couple of shops in Alofi which sell locally produced artworks and handicrafts.
Despite its small population, the people of Niue are especially creative and talented. There are several artists living on the island, who produce magnificent works of art which make for ideal souvenirs.
The artwork of Mark Cross can be purchased at the Tahiono Art Gallery in Alofi.
One of the most prominent artists on the island is Mark Cross, a New Zealander who is married to a Niuean – the wonderful Ahi Cross (pictured above).
Mark and Ahi run the Tahiono Art Gallery which is located in the Alofi Commercial Centre.
The walls of the gallery display Mark’s paintings which depict Niuean scenes which are interpreted in his unique style.
Kauhi Krafts
The Kauhi Kraft shop is owned by Niuean artist Olga Wilson who is known for her floral artwork which is applied to a variety of materials, including textiles.
Also located in the Alofi Commercial Centre is Kauhi Kraft.
This gallery/ ice cream shop is owned and operated by Niuean artist, Olga Wilson, and her husband, Alan Wilson, who is originally from Perth, Western Australia.
Olga is known for her floral artwork which she applies to a variety of materials, including textiles. If you are staying at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue, you will dine on table runners which have been designed by Olga.
The specialty at Kauhi Kraft are hand-painted tea towels, table runners, cushion covers, sarongs and more.
The shop also serves ice cream, which is also served in the form of delicious milkshakes.
Swanson Supermarket
Swanson Supermarket is the only supermarket on Niue.
The only supermarket on Niue is Swanson Supermarket, which is housed in the Swanson Commerical Centre.
Due to shipping costs, groceries on Niue are very expensive with a 1.5L bottle of Coca Cola at Swanson Supermarket costing NZ$7.50.
Offering a limited range of groceries, everything at Swanson’s is expensive due to high shipping costs. Everything arrives by container on the monthly supply ship from Auckland.
By the time all shipping costs are included, everyday items end up being priced as luxury items.
As an example, a 2L bottle of Minute Maid apple or orange juice costs NZ$13, while a 1.5L bottle of any soft drink costs NZ$7.50.
A large box of cereal for NZ$18.20! Due to shipping costs, all groceries at Swanson Supermarket are very expensive.
If you are going to be self-catering while on Niue, it’s much cheaper to carry any packaged food items from Auckland, within your luggage allowance.
The giant Uga Crab at the Swanson Commerical Complex.
It’s hard to miss the Swanson Commerical Complex, thanks to the giant Uga Crab which has been installed on the street corner, in front of the complex.
Niue Bond Store
Next door to Swanson Supermarket is the Niue Bond Store which is the one liquor shop on the island.
Naturally, this is one of the most popular shops on the island, and sells a variety of NZ wine and beer, along with international brand spirits.
The shop also serves as Niue’s only duty-free alcohol store, with flight passengers able to shop prior to their flight back to Auckland.
K-Mark
The K-mark store is the closest thing you’ll find to a real K-mart on Niue.
Also located in the Swanson Commerical Complex, K-Mark is the closest thing you’ll found on Niue to a real K-Mart store.
This veritable Aladdin’s Cave stocks all sorts of merchandise from toys, games, clothing, homewares and so much more.
Niue Visitor Information Centre
The Niue Visitor Information Centre is located in Alofi.
The Niue Visitors Information Centre in Alofi is operated by the friendly staff from Niue Tourism.
The “Tourism” license plate.
Two essential items which are available from the visitors’ centre are a map of the island plus the weekly guide which outlines the opening hours of all restaurants and cafes on the island.
Niue souvenirs for sale at the Niue Visitor’s Information Centre.
Apart from dispensing information, the visitors centre is a great place to find Niue souvenirs.
A display, at the Niue Visitors Centre in Alofi.
The visitors centre also includes informative cultural displays and a small display of artworks by local artists.
It’s worth picking up a free Niue map from Niue Tourism.
The sightseeing section lists the sights of Niue, travelling around the island, in a clock-wise direction from Alofi.
A ‘Welcome to Niue’ sign, outside Niue International Airport.
Alofi
Tomb Point
A view of the port and the northwest coast of Niue from Tomb Point.
Located across the road from the Alofi Commercial Centre, Tomb Point is a pleasant place to relax and take in the stunning views of the port and the west coast of Niue.
Views along the southwest coast of Niue from Tomb Point.
Given its close proximity to the takeaway food shops across the road, Tomb Point is an ideal place to relax with a picnic lunch while you take in the panoramic views of the rugged coastline.
A memorial stone at Tomb Point pays tribute to 150 Niuean soldiers, who departed from the port on the 13th of October 1915, to serve alongside New Zealand soldiers during WWI.
The gravestone of King Tui Toga (died 13th of June 1887), the 6th King of Niue who was also the island’s first Christian King.
Tomb Point serves as a graveyard for prominent Niueans, including two former Kings.
The first gravestone, as you enter the cemetery, belongs to King Tui Toga (died 13th of June 1887), the 6th King of Niue who was also the island’s first Christian King.
The gravestone of Fata-a-iki (died 1896), the 7th King of Niue.
Another prominent gravestone at Tomb Point is that of KingFata-a-iki(died 1896), the second Christian Niuean monarch.
One of his first acts as patu-iki in 1877 was to send a letter to the British monarch Queen Victoria, requesting that Niue be made a protectorate of the British Empire, to protect the island from other imperial powers, although his letter (and another sent in 1895) received no replies.
Niue was finally ceded to the British Empire on 21 April 1900 by the 8th King of Niue, KingTogia-Pulu-toaki.
From 1900 to 1901, Niue was ruled by the United Kingdom.
In 1901, the island was annexed by New Zealand, which administered it in the name of the British Empire.
On 26 September 1907, New Zealand attained the status of dominion, becoming the Dominion of New Zealand, and the British monarch from then on reigned over Niue in his or her capacity as monarch of New Zealand.
The current monarch of Niue is King Charles III.
Taoga Niue Museum
The very worthwhile Taoga Niue Museum tells the story of the history and culture of Niue.
Taoga Niue Museum is a national museum and cultural centre located in the new government complex in Alofi heights.
The only museum on Niue, it is located next door to the new parliament building – the Fale Fono II, and includes a small number of engaging displays which tells the story of Niue.
If you wish to gain a better understanding of the history and culture of Niue, the Taoga Niue Museum is a compulsory stop.
Access
Entry Fee: $10.00 (Kids & Students FREE)
Opening Hours: Monday – Friday (9:00 AM – 3:00 PM)
Closed: Saturdays, Sunday & Public Holidays
Coastal Niue
Palaha Cave
A view of the large cavern at Palaha Cave, one of many sea caves on Niue.
A short, clearly signposted, sea track in Tuapa village leads down to this shoreline cave.
Palaha Cave is a large, multi-level, cavern which opens out onto the pounding sea. The cave is full of stalactites and stalagmites in various vivid colours, thanks to the presence of different minerals.
The view out to sea from inside the Palaha Cave.
Namukulu Boat Ramp
A view of the northwest coast of Niue from the Namukulu boat ramp.
Located in the northwest corner of Niue, the Namukulu boat ramp is one of just two such ramps on the island.
Thanks to a small channel in the reef, local fisherman are able to launch their boats from this spot!
Limu Pools
Limu pools offers magical snorkeling.
A short drive further north along the coast, a clearly marked sea track leads down to the magical and enchanting world of the Limu Pools.
This is a popular place for snorkeling, which can be done in small, protected, turquoise-coloured pools.
The well-maintained sea track which leads down to Limu Pools.
Most of the coastal sights on Niue are accessed via short (200-metre-long) sea tracks. These ‘tracks’ are well-maintained walking paths with hand-rails and grip pads to prevent slipping.
Matapa Chasm
A view of the spectacular Matapa Chasm.
Further north along the coast, the next sight of interest is the spectacular Matapa Chasm.
The chasm is accessed via a flat, 200-metre-long sea track which leads from the road, through an ancient chasm to the coast.
Matapa Chasm is a mix of cooler, fresh water – which sits on top of warmer sea water. While swimming, you can feel the cooler fresh water cooling the top of your body, while the warmer sea water warms your legs.
The chasm is a great place for swimming and snorkeling, although on incoming and outgoing tides, the movement of water from the sea can cause strong currents inside the chasm.
Talava Arches
A view of Talava Arch, a highlight of Niue.
Also, from the same car park as Matapa Chasm, a longer, 1.5 km walk leads to the awesome sight which is the Talava Arches.
The track to the arches requires sturdy walking shoes and is uneven in places. The total walking time is around 45 minutes (return journey) so a bottle of water should be carried.
A view of Talava Arch from inside a sea cave.
The track ends at yet another spectacular sea cave which offers dramatic views of the arch. In order to fully explore the cave, you will need to use a rope to descend down towards the sea.
Although not a technical climb, the ropes are there to aid balance and to prevent slipping.
The perfectly framed limestone formations at Talava Arches.
It is at Talava Arches that you can best appreciate the fact that Niue is a raised limestone reef. Everywhere, you are surrounded by cliffs of ancient seabed, and everywhere you walk, you are stepping on fragments of fossilised coral.
Mutalau
At the northern tip of Niue sits the lonely and isolated outpost of Mutalau.
In an unfortunate incident in 1863, the village was raided by a Peruvian slave-ship, and many men were kidnapped and taken to Callao (the port city near Lima, Peru).
Vanilla is an important export product for Niue.
The village has more than 12,000 vanilla vines, which is about 33 percent of Niue’s total.
Uluvehi
A view of the north coast of Niue from inside one of the caves at Uluvehi.
A good, drivable, sea track leads a short distance from the village of Mutalau to the coastal cliffs at Uluvehi.
The cliffs are lined with quiet, lonely caves which look out across the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean.
A view of the north coast of Niue at Uluvehi.
Locals store their canoes safely, high up on the cliffs, away from the raging surf below.
Liku
A view of the east coast from a sea cave at Liku.
Continuing around the island in a clock-wise direction from Mutalau, the coastal road turns south and heads along with very lonely and mostly uninhabited east coast, passing through the sleepy settlements of Lakepa, Tautu and Liku.
A sea track leads through a cave an onto the reef at Liku.
At Liku, a hidden, drivable sea track leads to yet more dramatic coastal cliffs.
To find the sea track, you should drive across the grassy field behind Liku church and look for an opening in the forest. The unsealed road runs for about 1 km before reaching a parking area at the coast.
From here a track leads down to a cave which provides access to the reef.
Hikulagi Sculpture Park
The centerpiece of the Hikulagi Sculpture Park is the ‘Protean Habitat’.
Also, in Liku is the rather bizarre Hikulagi Sculpture Park which features sculptures which have been made from recycled junk.
The centrepiece of the park is the monumental sculpture called ‘Protean Habitat’ which epitomises the ideals behind the Hikulagi Sculpture Space. It’s a continuous, interactive, work-in-progress, which does not have any perception of a finite conclusion.
Based on a wooden substructure, Protean Habitat is an assemblage sculpture which is decorated with any sorts of objects found on the island. Everyone is encouraged to contribute to the artwork by attaching their found objects to the structure.
Sculptures at the Hikulagi Sculpture Park in Liku.
Huvalu Forest Conservation Area
A lonely road leads through the Huvalu Forest Conservation Area on Niue.
Continuing south of Liku, the coastal road enters into the uninhabited Huvalu Forest Conservation Area, which covers a large part of the southeastern corner of Niue.
Bee hives, which are owned by the folks from Niue Honey, inside the Huvalu Forest.
Hidden away inside the forest are the many beehives which are owned by Niue Honey, a company which produces what must be considered one of the purest honeys in the world.
Hakupu
The east coast village of Hakupu lies at the southern boundary of the Huvalu forest.
The east coast village of Hakupu lies at the southern boundary of the Huvalu forest. The village is known for its ebony carvings.
From the main road a sea track leads to the coast where you’ll find the Anapala Chasm.
Avatele Beach and Boat Ramp
A view of Avatele Beach.
Avatele beach is home to a small stretch of sand which makes it almost unique on this rocky island.
A channel provides access through the reef for local fishing boats.
Tamakautoga Beach
A hidden gem – tiny Tamakautoga Beach is one of the few beaches on Niue.
Signposted off the main coastal road in the village of Tamakautoga is a hidden gem – a small patch of sandy beach!
After a super short walk down the Togulu Sea Track, you’ll find a tiny cove, Tamakautoga Beach.
The beach is ideal for paddling, walking and snorkelling at low tide.
A small swimming hole under a rock overhang is a great place to relax during low tide.
The Okioki Mai cafe serves delicious food and cool drinks.
Located alongside the Tamakautoga beach carpark, the Okioki Mai cafe serves take away food and refreshingly cool drinks from a lime green shipping container.
Niue Golf Course
Located opposite the airport, the Niue Golf Course offers a 9-hole course with a club house.
The Niue Golf and Sports Club has a well-maintained, 9-hole golf course, which is across the road from Niue International Airport.
Visitors are welcome to play at any time and clubs can be hired from the Vaiolama Cafe (who also have a miniature golf course on the clifftop next to the restaurant).
Inland Niue
Two cross-island roads link Alofi to the east coast villages of Liku and Lakepa.
A couple of cross-island roads pass through the barely inhabited interior of the island, linking Alofi to the east coast settlements of Liku and Lakepa.
The 19 km drive from Alofi to Liku, and the 16 km drive from Alofi to Lakepa, passes through lush rainforests.
It is here where the few birds on Niue can be found.
There is one parrot on Niue – the Blue-crowned lorikeet which is found throughout the islands of the South Pacific.
The lorikeets are very elusive on Niue, although I did see one flash of green as I was driving across the island.
A painting of a Blue-crowned lorikeet, by artist Olga Wilson, displayed at the Kauhi Kraft shop in Alofi.
The closest I came to seeing one of these lorikeets was at the Kauhi Kraft shop in Alofi, where artist Olga Wilson has a painting of one of these elusive birds.
The barely used cross-island road between Alofi and Lakepa passes through verdant rainforest.
When you travel across the interior, it becomes clear that everyone on Niue lives on the coast. The interior is very empty and totally quiet.
The interior of Niue is used to grow Taro, a key staple on the island.
The interior of Niue features no population centres, but is home to large tracts of primary forest with the occasional clearing occupied by fields of taro or banana and papaya trees.
Scuba Diving
The highly recommended, ‘Niue Blue’, is the sole scuba diving operator on Niue.
Scuba diving on a raised limestone island, with an absence of sand, and an absence of rivers dumping ground water into the sea, ensures excellent visibility. Underwater, visibility on Niue can be almost up to 100 metres. It is crystal clear!
The crew from Niue Blue, lowering our dive boat into the water.
Added into the mix are interesting underwater formations such as caves, caverns, coral-encrusted bommies, ridges, channels and much more.
There is just one dive operator on the island – the highly recommended Niue Blue, who are located next door to the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Due to the excellent conditions, almost every day is a dive day on Niue with diving trips (for up to 5 divers) heading out each morning at around 7:30 am.
A two-tank dive, with full equipment rental, costs NZ$295. Not cheap, but highly worth it!
Due to the fact that there is no safe harbour on Niue, the dive boat is lowered into the sea using a crane which is installed at the main wharf.
Note: All photos from my scuba diving have been provided by Niue Blue.
During my stay on Niue, I did a two-tank dive which I would highly recommend.
Dive # 1
The first dive took us into ‘Dome Cave‘, a shoreline cave which is only accessible from underwater.
A sea snake, sleeping in the entrance of Dome Cave.
To access the cave, we swam through a beautiful blue opening (which is a favourite hangout for friendly and curious sea snakes), and used our torches to work our way up to the surface inside this dark cavern.
Scuba Diving at the amazing ‘Dome Cave’ with Niue Blue.
The walls of the cave are home to many large coconut crabs, while large schools of fish take refuge inside the cave entrance.
Diving inside ‘Dome Cave’ with Niue Blue.
A small crack in the roof of the cave lets a little air in, so we were able to remove our regulators and breathe in the fresh air.
The water at the surface is cool, fresh water which we could drink.
Once we re-submerged, we passed through a thermocline (which plays tricks with your vision as the water is blurry and shimmery) back into the warmer sea water which sits below the fresh water.
Being a raised limestone reef, with no sand, or fresh water runoff from the island, water visibility is excellent on Niue.
We then exited the cave, waving good bye to a sleeping sea snake, then continued our dive.
An amazing experience!
Dive # 2
Our 2nd dive took us around some spectacular underwater bommies and ridges.
Between the ridges were open areas of sea bed where we saw one large stingray feeding.
Due to Niue’s reef, the monthly supply ship, Olomana, must moor offshore, and transfer its containers, one at a time, to a small barge.
Almost everything on Niue has been bought to the island by the monthly supply ship, MV Olomana, which sails between Auckland and Niue.
During my visit, the supply ship was in town, unloading its valuable cargo. Goods are bought ashore at the shallow wharf in Alofi, which can be used only by flat-bottomed, smaller, vessels.
Containers from the MV Olomana are craned onto a smaller barge which transports them to shore.
Due to the presence of the reef, the supply ship must moor about 400 metres offshore. A small barge is used to transfer containers to and from the ship.
Because of this slow process, the supply ship must remain in port for several days, while full containers are offloaded and empty containers are loaded.
A view of the MV Olomana, which calls at Niue every month.
Shipping services to Niue are operated by the Matson Shipping Company, who provide shipping services throughout the Pacific. The Olomana sails every three weeks from Auckland to Rarotonga and Aitutaki in the Cook Islands and then Niue.
During the time the ship is in port, the main road in front of the port is lined by a high wall of shipping containers.
Accommodation
The only hotel on Niue is the very good ‘Scenic Matavai Resort Niue’ which is perched on top of a coastal cliff, south of Alofi.
Tiny Niue offers a small selection of accommodation, most of which can be viewed on the accommodation page of the Niue Tourism website.
Christmas time at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue, the only hotel on the island.
While the regular online travel sites (Booking.com, Hotels.com etc.) offer few accommodation options, Airbnb offers five different cottages.
During my time on the island I stayed at David’s Fale, an Airbnb property, and at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue, the only hotel on Niue.
Scenic Matavai Resort Niue
Great views of the coast of Niue from the pool area at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Part of the New Zealand owned and operated, Scenic Hotel Group, the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue enjoys a spectacular location, perched on the edge of a clifftop, overlooking the azure waters of the Pacific.
A view of the west coast from the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
The resort is located 5 km from Niue airport and 7.5 km southeast of Alofi village.
While the resort offers complimentary airport transfers, it is recommended that you hire a car during your stay on Niue.
There is no other way to explore the island other than with your own means of transport.
My spacious and comfortable ‘Superior’ room at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
The resort offers 56 rooms with balconies, with most rooms offering spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.
The spacious rooms include an ensuite bathroom, tea and coffee making facilities, minibar, LCD TV (with just 3 channels which aren’t worth watching), an in-room safe, bathrobes and slippers. Everything for the discerning traveller!
Standard rooms at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue start from NZ$250 per night.
Standard ‘Ocean View’ rooms start at NZ$250 per night, with ‘Superior rooms’ costing NZ$300 per night.
All room rates include a buffet breakfast.
At certain times of the year, a minimum booking of 7 nights must be made, which coincides with the flight schedule.
You can book rooms directly through the hotel website or through booking.com
Rooms at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue include ensuite bathrobes, slippers and bathrobes.
As for dining options – the restaurant at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue is the only full service restaurant on Niue and is the only restaurant on the island which is open seven days a week.
For more on the restaurant, please refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section.
Scenic Matavai Apartments and Villa
Apartments at the Scenic Matavai Apartments and Villa complex are perched on top of the sea cliffs.
In addition to the main resort, the Scenic group also offer the Scenic Matavai Apartments and Villa which is located 1.7 km north of the main resort.
A walkway onto the reef, in front of Scenic Matavai Apartments and Villa.
Like the main resort, this property enjoys a spectacular cliff-top location and apartments have a very pleasant ocean outlook. There is a sea-track down to the reef which gives access to the reef at low tide.
A view of the reef from the Scenic Matavai Apartments and Villa.
David’s Fale
During my stay on Niue, I spent 4 nights at David’s Fale, a cosy Airbnb cottage.
My first 4 nights on Niue were spent in a cosy and comfortable Airbnb cottage – David’s Fale.
The living room at David’s Fale in Alofi.
The cottage included one bedroom with a queen-sized bed, a bathroom with washing machine, a living room and a kitchen which allowed me to self-cater.
The cottage is located in Alofi, amidst the swaying coconut palms, just north of the wharf.
My bedroom at David’s Fale.
The cottage, which costs about NZ$160 per night (excluding the usual Airbnb fees), must be booked for a minimum of 4-nights.
An invaluable resource on Niue is the restaurant schedule which is issued each week by Niue Tourism.
With a population of just 1,620 souls, dining options on Niue are very limited.
An invaluable resource for any visitor to Niue is the restaurant schedule which is issued each week by Niue Tourism.
This schedule lists restaurants which are open for meals on any given day. At certain times, on certain days, the only dining option might be the restaurant at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Restaurants on the island tend to close early, with some restaurants closing their kitchens by 8 pm. Opening hours are also indicated on the schedule.
Before venturing out to any restaurant, it’s best to consult the restaurant schedule!
Restaurants/ Cafes
Scenic Matavai Resort Niue
An amazing sesame-encrusted, seared tuna which I enjoyed for lunch at the Dolphin Restaurant at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
The only restaurant on Niue which is open 7 days for breakfast, lunch and dinner is the Dolphin Restaurant at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue.
Served for dinner at the Dolphin Restaurant, Ika Mata, a popular dish across the Pacific, consists of raw fish in coconut cream.
Main courses at the Dolphin Restaurant average NZ$30, with beer battered fish & chips costing NZ$29.
In the evenings, the restaurant provides entertainmentwhich includes coconut husking demonstrations, Uga (Coconut crab) demonstrations, music and much more.
The Dolphin restaurant is normally the liveliest and busiest place in town.
Crazy Uga Cafe & Bar
Scrambled eggs and coffee at the Crazy Uga cafe in Alofi.
My go-to place for breakfast was the popular Crazy Uga Cafe which is always buzzing with locals and tourists who enjoy great coffee, good food and sweeping views of the west coast from the cafe’s balcony.
The view of the west coast of Niue, from the balcony of the Crazy Uga Cafe.
What sets this cafe apart is that they have a proper espresso machine – something almost unique on Niue.
My morning Cafe Latte at the Crazy Uga Cafe in Alofi.
The coffee at the Crazy Uga Cafe was the best I tasted on Niue.
This excellent cafe is open most days until 2 pm.
Fana Cafe
Serving food made from local ingredients, Fana Cafe is popular with locals and tourists.
Located in the Swanson Supermarket Complex, this popular eatery serves amazing food using mostly local produce.
One of many delicious sandwiches which are served at the Fana Cafe.
I highly recommend anything which includes their signature papaya relish.
Due to its popularity, food often sells out early, so it’s best not to turn up for a late lunch. On at least two visits, I was served the last bread roll.
Vanilla Cafe
A delicious fish curry, made from local tuna, at Vanilla Cafe in Alofi.
Located in the Alofi Commercial Centre, next door to Niue Telecom, Vanilla Cafe serves very good Indian curries, which are prepared by the Indian chef.
I especially recommend the fish curry which is prepared using local, fresh fish. One of the more cosmopolitan offerings on the island!
Vanilla Cafe in Alofi serves delicious Indian curries.
Crow’s Nest
The menu at Crow’s Nest fish and chips shop in Alofi.
Located in the Alofi Commercial Centre, behind the Niue Development Bank, Crow’s Nest serve amazingly fresh fish and chips, using local fish.
The whole place closes each Saturday so that the owners can go fishing to restock the freezer. You can check out your next meal on the Facebook page of one of the owners, who also runs a fishing charter company.
Hio Cafe & Bar
The Hio Cafe & Bar serve amazing wood-fired pizzas, with the Hawaiian pizza being a popular choice in this part of the world.
Located on the northwest coast, in the village of Tuapa, the Hio Cafe & Bar serve amazing wood-fired pizzas, with the most popular being the Hawaiian pizza.
Vaiolama Cafe
Located on the clifftop in Alofi, this popular cafe serves fish and chips and excellent hamburgers, although it can sell out early!
Kai ika
Located in Alofi, this Japanese restaurant offers everything from sushi, sashimi, fish and chips and much more. Kitchen closes at 8pm!
Uncle John’s Niue Hamburgers
Available at Alofi market on Fridays, Uncle John’s ‘Niue Hamburger’ features slices of grilled papaya.
A special mention should be made for the delicious Niue hamburgers which are served by Uncle John at the Alofi market every Friday.
Unlike its Hawaiian counterpart, the Niue hamburger features slices of grilled papaya rather than pineapple.
Papaya on a hamburger? Who would have thought!
Very tasty!
Bars
The mixologists at ‘All Relativf Cocktail Bar’ serve amazing cocktails.
There are a few bars on Niue, including at the Scenic Matavai Resort Niue, which is all things to all people.
Tucked away at the back of the Swanson Commercial Complex is the All Relativf Cocktail Bar whose mixologists serve amazing cocktails.
Also in the same shopping centre, the Niue Bond Store is the only liquor store on the island and serves also as the island’s one duty-free store.
The Inu Hake Brewery has the distinction of being the only brewery on Niue. Located in Alofi, this craft beer brewery uses local ingredients, such as Niue honey, vanilla and coconut to create tasty craft beers which can be sampled at the brewery on certain evenings.
Visas are required for all visitors to Niue, except for nationals of New Zealand who are Niueans or descendants of Niueans and nationals of other countries who are bona fide visitors staying 30 days or less.
Visitors must have sufficient funds for the length of their stay together with a confirmed reservation for accommodation and those not holding return or onward tickets could be refused entry.
Despite these requirements, I was never asked any questions by immigration upon arrival. I was simply stamped into the country – a process which took about one minute.
Since the only way to reach the island is on a flight from New Zealand, travellers wanting to visit Niue from outside of New Zealand must meet the border entry requirements for both New Zealand and Niue.
Diplomatic Representation
The only diplomatic missions on Niue are the New Zealand and Australian High Commission which share the same facility.
Getting There
Air New Zealand provide a twice weekly service to Niue from Auckland International Airport.
Air
Niue International Airport, which is also known as Hanan International Airport.
All flights to Niue arrive at Niue International Airport (IATA: IUE), which is also known as Hanan International Airport.
My Air New Zealand boarding pass for my flight from Auckland to Niue.
The airport is named after Ralph Hanan, who was formerly a New Zealand Minister of Island Affairs.
The airport sign, which contains a spelling mistake – the airport is named after Ralph HANAN, who was a New Zealand Minister of Island Affairs.
Located just a 5-minute drive from the main town of Alofi, the airport is only used by Air New Zealand, who fly twice per week between Auckland and Niue, a 3.5-hour flight which crosses the International Date Line.
First views of Niue, from my Air New Zealand flight.
This is one flight for which it is worth requesting a window seat as the views of Niue during landing and takeoff are breathtaking.
The terminal building at Niue International Airport.
Flights depart Auckland every Saturday and Wednesday, crossing the International Date Line, arriving on Niue the previous day.
The same flight then departs Niue on Friday and Tuesday, arriving 3.5-hours later in Auckland, on the following day.
All arriving and departing passengers to Niue are required to complete an arrival/ departure card.
On plane days, market stalls are set up alongside the airport terminal, selling everything from taro chips to hand-painted sarongs and other souvenir items.
The waiting lounge at Niue International Airport.
Did you know?
While New Zealand and Niue share the same time, they are 24 hours apart!
New Zealand and Niue are on the same time but located on either side of the International Date Line.
When it’s 12 noon in Auckland on Saturday, it’s 12 noon in Niue on Friday.
Departing Niue on my Air New Zealand flight.
Airport Transport
There is no public transport on Niue.
Arriving visitors should organise either an airport transfer with their accommodation provider or a car rental from the airport.
The Scenic Matavai Resort operate a shuttle bus to and from the airport for arriving guests.
Sea
The only way to reach Niue by sea is on one of the three cruise ships which call at the island each year – the MS Volendam, the MS Zaandam and the Seaborn Quest.
Due to the coral reef which surrounds the island, ships must moor at sea, with passengers transported ashore via tender boats.
Driving distances in Niue are short and the roads are always free of traffic.
As mentioned, there is no public transport on Niue.
If you wish to explore the island, the only option is to rent a vehicle – either a car or a motorbike. There are several well-established rental car companies with safe, well maintained vehicles for hire.
Niue boasts 64 km of (mostly) sealed road and it takes roughly 2 hours to drive around the island.
Speed limits on Niue are 40km/hour in villages and 60km/hour in open areas.
A ring road around the island’s coast is the main road, which connects all villages.
In Niue, driving is on the left-hand side of the road!
Taxi
The one taxi which did exist on Niue has ceased operation due to the driver entering retirement.
The Scenic Matavai Resort operate a shuttle bus to and from the airport for arriving guests.
Rental Car
Exploring Niue in my Kia rental car, which I hired from Niue 4×4 Rentals.
With no public transport on the island, the only sensible way to explore Niue, and maximise your time on the island, is with a rental car.
On an island of 1,620 inhabitants, you can be sure that traffic is always light. Driving is very relaxed, and most of the time I had the road to myself.
One very nice habit on the island is that all passing motorists’ wave at each other. Everyone knows everyone and tourists are always made to feel welcome.
Driving on Niue is very relaxed, with lots of scenic lookouts, little traffic and very friendly drivers.
While I was on the island, the Chinese government, as part of its ‘China Aid’ program, was busy upgrading roads and installing footpaths, and gutters in Alofi.
While most roads are sealed, some of the back roads (especially on the sparsely inhabited east coast) are heavily potholed.
The license plate on my rental car.
There are a number of car rental companies on Niue, including the following:
I used the services of Niue 4×4 Rentals which is owned by the very friendly ‘Willie’ who is also supported by his very competent daughter.
Upon arrival at Niue Airport, I was met by Willie’s daughter, who pointed out my rental car on the other side of the airport car park. The keys were left in the ignition and the car was unlocked. Never do you need to worry about theft on tiny Niue.
Rental Car Costs
Exploring Niue, in my comfortable Kia Sportage, which I rented from the wonderful Willie at Niue 4×4 Rentals.
As for charges, my very nice Kia Sportage cost NZ$60 per day. I was told I could make payment anytime during my stay on the island.
Willie’s daughter works at the Crazy Uga Cafe where I often ate breakfast. The cost of my car rental was simply added to my breakfast bill one morning with everything paid with credit card at the cafe. Easy!
At the end of my stay, I left the car, unlocked, in the airport carpark with the key in the ignition.
A very nice and relaxed rental experience!
I would highly recommend Niue 4×4 Rentals for your rental car needs.
Niue Driver’s License
My Niue Driver’s License – a great souvenir from the island and a valid photo ID.
Under Niue law, anyone driving a vehicle on the island needs to hold a valid Niue Driver’s License.
The Niue Police coat of arms is displayed inside the Niue Police Station.
You can apply for a license, from Monday to Thursday, at the one Niue Police station, which is across the road from Swanson’s supermarket.
A license costs NZ$22.50 and takes about 5 minutes to issue – including having your photo taken.
Fuel Station
The Central Services Petrol Station is the only fuel station on Niue.
The Central Services Petrol Station is the one and only fuel station on Niue. It is open Monday to Saturday, 7 am to 7 pm, and Sunday, 4 pm to 7 pm.
The fuel station also sells some basic groceries such as bread, pies and milk.
Fuel is shipped to the island on the monthly supply ship from Auckland.
At the time of my visit (December 2023), one litre of unleaded fuel cost NZ$3.50 (US$2.18).
During my week of driving on Niue, I used less than a tank of fuel.
That’s the end of my Niue Travel Guide. If you wish to leave feedback you can do so using the form below or via the contact page.
Safe Travels!
Darren
Further Reading
Following is a list of other taste2travel content from the region:
This is an Australia Travel Quiz from taste2travel!
How well do you know Australia
Test your knowledge with this Australia travel quiz from taste2travel.
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Did you know?
There are many more travel quizzes on taste2travel, covering specific continents and subjects such as currencies, flags, maps, capital cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, museums and much more.
02. Famous for its many beautiful beaches, the city of Newcastle is located in which state?
Correct!Wrong!
03. Approximately, what percentage of Australians live on the coast?
Correct!Wrong!
The large deserts of central Australia mean that the vast majority of the population live on the shores of this enormous country. All capital cities, except for Canberra, are located on the coast.
04. In which town would you be if you were viewing the 'Super Pit', one of the world's largest gold mines?
Correct!Wrong!
The 'Super Pit' is approximately 3.5km long, 1.5km wide and 600m deep. The structure is big enough to be seen from space. The Super Pit was the biggest open gold mine in Australia until 2016, when it was surpassed by the Boddington gold mine, also in western Australia.
05. With a land area of 7,692,024 km2, where does Australia rank, worldwide, in term of country size?
Correct!Wrong!
Australia is the world's sixth largest country, after Russia, Canada, China, the USA, and Brazil. While it is the smallest continental land mass, it is the world's largest island.
06. What was the nationality of Jørn Utzon, the designer of the iconic Sydney Opera House?
Correct!Wrong!
07. Home to 897 souls, Flinders Island is a part of which state?
Correct!Wrong!
08. Which statement is true of Australia?
Correct!Wrong!
While Australia is located in the tropics, the country is 70% desert and the Australian Alps receive more snowfall than the Swiss Alps. However, there are no active volcanoes in Australia.
09. The black swan is the bird emblem of which state?
Correct!Wrong!
The black swan has been used as the emblem of Western Australia since the 1830s, although there is no record of any early official confirmation. It was officially confirmed as the state bird in 1973!
10. A group of emus is known as a what?
Correct!Wrong!
11. This is the flag of which Australian territory?
Correct!Wrong!
12. Which is the capital of Western Australia?
Correct!Wrong!
13. The ACT (Australian Capital Territory) is entirely surrounded by which state?
Correct!Wrong!
14. What is the approximate length of the Great Barrier Reef, the largest coral reef system in the world?
Correct!Wrong!
Stretching for 2,300 km, over an area of approximately 344,000 square kms, the Great Barrier Reef is the largest coral reef system in the world.
15. In which state would you be if you were visiting Bruny Island ?
Correct!Wrong!
16. Cape Leeuwin, the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, is located in which state?
Correct!Wrong!
17. What is the name of the central bank of Australia?
Correct!Wrong!
18. The outback town of Bourke is located in which state?
Correct!Wrong!
19. Which is the capital of Tasmania?
Correct!Wrong!
20. Finally, this is the flag of which Australian territory?
Correct!Wrong!
Travel Quiz 69: Australia Travel Quiz
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To read about this destination, please refer to my Iran Travel Guide.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 230 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Iran Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: May 2023
Introduction
Welcome to my Iran Travel Guide!
I recently travelled to Iran for 3-weeks, traversing what is known as the ‘Classic Route‘, travelling from Shiraz, north to Tehran, stropping at Yazd, Esfahan (Isfahan), Kashan and Tehran.
A view of the spectacular dome at the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Esfahan, one of many outstanding sights in Iran.
During my time in the country, I travelled with an amazing freelance Iranian guide, Esmaeil Shahsavar (aka Essi), who made my trip so much more memorable than if I had travelled by myself!
Travelling in Iran with the amazing Essi!
Essi is a proud Iranian who is passionate about Iran’s history, culture and society. Through him, I was introduced to many remarkable people and places, which allowed me to gain insights into Iran that wouldn’t be available to me as a regular tourist.
I highly recommend engaging the services of a local guide who is passionate and knowledgeable. I have included contact details for Essi in the ‘Tour Guide‘ section below.
Detail of the sublime tilework at the Shah Mosque in Esfahan.
Did you know? Iran is home to 27 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, making it one of the top 10 countries in terms of UNESCO sites.
In so many ways, Iran has been a cradle of civilisation for humanity. Iran is known for its ancient civilisations, stunning architecture and its influence on the greater region and beyond.
An aerial view, taken from my Flydubai flight, of the spectacularly pink Maharloo Lake.
During my 3-weeks in Iran, I took 1,500 photos. In most other countries, I would take 200-300 photos in the same period of time.
Iran is one of the most surprising, authentic travel destinations anywhere on planet Earth.
Iran is unlike most countries – a fascinating travel destination which offers an overwhelming amount of sightseeing, including no less than 27 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Columns, from the ruined Apadana Palace at Persepolis.
As for the people, the hospitality of Iranians is legendary and I was always made to feel very welcome.
There is a vast difference between everyday Iranians and the Iranian government, whose, normally provocative, actions make the daily news cycle for all the wrong reasons.
Iranians are generally an intelligent, educated, open-minded lot who are keen to engage with the outside world.
Iran rial banknotes, featuring the image of Ayatollah Khomeini, the first supreme leader of Iran.
Despite the internet being blocked by the government, most Iranians access the internet using VPN’s. Despite efforts by the government, Iranians tend to be fully informed!
Due to international sanctions, there are many restrictions imposed on Iran.
Credit cards cannot be used inside Iran, which also means that cash cannot be withdrawn from ATMs. I cover all of these monetary restrictions, and solutions, in the ‘Currency‘ section below.
Additionally, applying for a tourist visa isn’t so straight-forward and is best done using an Iranian-registered travel company. The visa application process is fully explained in the ‘Visa Requirement‘ section below.
If you have thought about visiting Iran, I would urge you to go.
I had an amazing time in the country and look forward to returning one day to continue my road-trip through this fascinating, ancient, and modern, land.
Location
Iran is located in the heart of western Asia, at a crossroads with the Middle East. Iran’s strategic location has made it an historically important crossroads for trade and cultural exchange between the East and the West.
Iran shares land borders to the north with Turkmenistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and the exclave of Nakhchivan (an autonomous region of
Azerbaijan).
To the northeast, Iran is bordered by Afghanistan, while to the east, it shares a long border with Pakistan. To the west, it borders Iraq.
To the southwest, Iran has a long coastline along the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman. On the other side of the Persian Gulf, the same body of water is referred to as the Arabian Gulf – much to the annoyance of Iranians.
In terms of topography, Iran is very diverse, with vast mountain ranges, deserts, plateaus, and fertile valleys.
The Zagros Mountains run along its western border, while the Alborz Mountains are located in the north. Central Iran is dominated by the Iranian Plateau, which includes the Dasht-e Kavir (Great Salt Desert) and the Dasht-e Lut (Lut Desert).
The country also features several fertile plains and valleys, including the Caspian Sea (the world’s largest landlocked body of water) to the north.
People
The people of Iran, known as Iranians, are a diverse and culturally rich population with a long history dating back thousands of years.
Iran is a multi-ethnic country, and Iranians are comprised of various ethnic groups. The majority are Persian, making up about 61% of the population.
Other significant ethnic groups include Azeris, Kurds, Arabs, Lurs, Baloch, and Turkmen, among others. This ethnic diversity contributes to the cultural richness of the nation.
The official language of Iran is Persian (Farsi), and it serves as the lingua franca across the country. However, many Iranians are bilingual or multilingual, with minority ethnic groups often speaking their own languages or dialects.
Why Two Door Knockers?
A traditional wooden door, featuring two door knockers.
Formerly, in more conservative times, traditional wooden doors in Iran featured two knockers.
The knocker on the left was used by female visitors, while the one on the right was used by male visitors.
Always, the door knocker on the left is to be used by female visitors, while the one on the right is to be used by male visitors, with each producing a different sound.
This allowed householders to know the gender of the visitor before they opened the door.
This was important since it wasn’t acceptable for a male to open a door to a female visitor and vice-versa.
The predominant religion in Iran is Shia Islam. The country is home to some of the most important Shia religious sites, and religious practices play a significant role in the daily lives of many Iranians. However, there are also religious minorities in Iran, including Sunni Muslims, Christians, Jews and Zoroastrians.
Iranians have a rich cultural heritage that includes contributions to literature, poetry, art, music, and philosophy. Persian poetry, with luminaries like Rumi and Hafez, holds a special place in world literature.
Persian carpets, such as this one in Kashan, are in integral part of Iranian culture.
Traditional Persian music, characterised by instruments like the tar and setar, is renowned for its beauty and complexity.
Iranians are known for their warm hospitality. Guests are highly esteemed in Iranian culture, and it is common for hosts to go to great lengths to make visitors feel welcome.
Iran has a strong emphasis on education, and literacy rates are relatively high. Both men and women have access to education, and women’s participation in higher education has been steadily increasing over the years.
A birthday girl, posing for the camera at Maharloo Lake.
The dress code in Iran varies, but modesty is a key consideration. Traditional clothing such as the chador, hijab, and manteau are common for women, while men typically wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers.
However, younger Iranian women are challenging the established norms, with many choosing not to wear hijab. This is a direct challenge to the conservative Islamic leaders who run the country and continues to cause friction and problems.
Flag
The flag of Iran, as souvenir fridge magnets.
The flag of Iran, also known as the Iranian Tricolor consists of three horizontal stripes of equal width, arranged from top to bottom in the following colors:
1. Green Stripe: The top stripe is green, which holds significant historical and cultural symbolism. Green has long been associated with Islam, representing growth, hope, and happiness. It is also a colour that reflects the natural landscapes of Iran, including its lush gardens and forests.
2. White Stripe: The middle stripe is white, which symbolises peace and purity. White is often seen as a color of harmony and tranquility, reflecting the desire for a peaceful coexistence among Iran’s people and with the rest of the world.
3. Red Stripe: The bottom stripe is red, a color that represents valour, bravery, and the bloodshed of those who sacrificed for Iran’s independence and freedom. It also symbolises the country’s long history of struggle against invaders and oppressors.
The flag of Iran, flying at Pasargadae.
In the centre of the white stripe, near the hoist side, there is a stylised emblem known as the “Allah-o-Akbar” emblem. This emblem features a stylised calligraphic design of the phrase “Allah-o-Akbar,” which means “God is the Greatest” in Arabic script.
The calligraphy is done in a way that it forms a stylised version of the word “Allah” (God) within the emblem.
Currency
The Iranian rial, aka toman, is the official currency of Iran.
The currency situation in Iran is especially confusing for the first-time visitor.
While the official currency is the Iranian rial (international currency code: IRR), all prices are expressed in toman. The toman is an ancient currency which has existed since 1798.
In 1932, the rial was introduced, with one toman being equal to 10 rial. Although, today, the rial is the official currency, all prices are expressed in toman.
My uncirculated wad of one hundred, 10,000 Iranian rial, banknotes which I purchased from a money changer.
Iranians transact in toman, not rial, although they use rial banknotes.
What makes things confusing is that all bank notes are issued in rial, but they are used as toman. To further complicate matters, three extra zeros are omitted from the rial when converting to toman.
This means, if you purchase something which is worth 2,000,000 rial – you will pay 200,000 toman which is expressed simply as ‘200’. Very confusing for visitors.
Currently, four different versions of the 1,000,000 Iranian rial bank note are in circulation, although each is expressed as ‘100’ toman.
If that’s not confusing enough, different series of Iranian rial banknotes are in circulation at the same time. For example, there are currently four different versions of the 1,000,000 rial bank note in circulation (ss shown above).
As can be seen in the image above, the latest versions of the bank notes (right side) have the last 4 zeros of the rial amount shaded out so that the value is expressed as toman. Additionally, the toman amount of ‘100’ is clearly displayed on the notes.
As an example of an everyday transaction, if you pay for a coffee in a café, you’ll be charged 150 toman which is 1,500,000 rials.
Exchange Rate
Bank notes in Iran feature the image of Ayatollah Khomeini, the first supreme leader of Iran from 1979 until his death in 1989.
The exchange rate of the Iranian rial has experienced significant fluctuations due to economic factors and sanctions.
While there are many ATMs in Iran, they only accept Iranian bank cards.
Due to sanctions, Iran is not part of the international bank system and as such, international credit cards cannot be used in Iran.
This also means that foreigners are unable to withdraw cash from ATMs in Iran. You will need to arrive in the country with enough USD cash (or Euro) for your entire stay.
Iranian banks do issue domestic cards to their customers, which allow Iranians to pay for purchases electronically and withdraw cash from ATM’s.
Iranians are big on electronic payments, preferring to pay for almost everything using a card, rather than carrying loads of cash.
Credit cards also cannot be used to pay for hotels in Iran and, due to sanctions, the regular online booking sites (booking.com etc.) do not list Iranian hotels.
One Iranian online accommodation provider, 1st Quest, allows you to pre-book, and pre-pay, for accommodation using your international credit card. Transactions on this site are conducted outside of Iran.
You should book all accommodation prior to arriving in Iran. Please refer to the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more on 1st Quest.
Prepaid Tourist Card
The Mah Card is an Iranian prepaid debit card for tourists.
One card option available for visitor’s is Mah Card, an Iranian debit card which can be pre-loaded with funds which saves you from carrying around piles of cash.
Due to the processing time involved in issuing the card (up to 7 days), it’s essential that you apply for this in advance of your trip.
Upon arrival in Iran, the card will be waiting for you at your nominated accommodation.
Accessing Your Home Bank
It should be noted that due to sanctions, your bank at home might be inaccessible in Iran. When I tried to login to my bank in Australia, I received a message to say that the service was unavailable in Iran due to sanctions regulations.
Costs
Travel costs in Iran are totally reasonable! As a destination, Iran offers excellent value for money.
One of the biggest bargains in Iran is petrol, which currently costs US$0.06 per litre! Some of the cheapest fuel in the world!
It goes without saying – Iran is not your usual travel destination!
Due to sanctions, and the ongoing (difficult) political environment, there are many considerations which must be made when planning a trip to Iran.
If you apply for a visa independently, there is a good chance your application will be denied.
You need to apply for a visa through an Iranian-registered travel company. For a full description of the Visa Application process, please refer to the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.
Because of sanctions, most international travel insurance policies do not provide coverage in Iran – you will need to purchase an Iranian travel insurance policy.
Also – credit cards cannot be used anywhere inside Iran. You cannot withdraw cash from ATMs anywhere in Iran.
However, you can apply, in advance, for an Iran Tourist Card which is an Iranian debit card which you can pre-load online and will allow you to make electronic payments throughout Iran.
All of these services are offered by the amazingly helpful folks at Tap Persia.
Tap Persia is a one-stop shop for all your Iran travel needs!
If you are planning a trip to Iran, you would be wise to first contact Tap Persia.
From their website, you can organise everything online. Their most important service is the Visa Application service.
Their service is friendly and efficient! They are the gateway to Iran for so many travellers!
1st Quest
Also because of sanctions, hotels in Iran cannot be booked using the regular online booking websites.
You can pre-book hotels online, and pay with your credit card, using 1st Quest which is Iran’s version of booking.com.
Iranian Tour Guide
“Essi is your man in Iran!”
Normally, I travel independently!
However, prior to arriving in Iran, I was introduced to a Shiraz-based tour guide, Esmaeil Shahsavar (aka Essi), through some friends who had travelled previously with him and highly recommended the experience!
Essi is a qualified tour guide who speaks perfect English. He is a proud Iranian who loves his country, its culture, history and its people!
He works both as a freelance tour guide and for established tour companies and has an expansive knowledge of the entire country. Wherever we went, he knew of hidden sights which he loved to share with me.
Video of Persepolis by Essi!
Essi is also a keen videographer and was always making videos of our adventures. He shares many of his videos on his Instagram account.
I contacted Essi and organised to use his services in Shiraz and onto Yazd. Beyond Yazd, I planned to travel independently to Tehran.
However, it became clear on the first day that Essi is more than just a tour guide. He has a genuine love for Iran, and is eager to share its history, culture, sights, cuisine and so much more with visitors.
Even as we drove between sights, in his clean and comfortable white Peugeot, he would play the most beautiful Iranian music and provide translation of the lyrics!
In the end, I realised my travel experience in Iran would be greatly enhanced by having Essi as my full-time guide. I agreed to travel with Essi for the 21-days I was in Iran!
During this time, I travelled what is known as the ‘Classic Route‘, starting in Shiraz, then moving on to Yazd, Esfahan, Kashan then Tehran.
In each city, I scheduled a 4-night stay which allowed time to explore the sights in and outside of each city.
At every step of the trip, Essi would surprise me by revealing dazzling sights in the most remote and unlikely locations. With him, I visited places I could never have reached with regular public transport.
In every city, Essi knew people, and introduced me to his many friends which further enhanced my travel experience.
Travelling in Iran with Essi was a no-brainer – it was a win/win situation.
The 21-days I spent travelling the Classic Route with Essi was the ultimate Iran Road Trip.
If you are planning a trip to Iran and would like to travel with a freelance guide, who will enthusiastically share his knowledge and passion for his amazing country, then Essi is your man in Iran!
Sightseeing in Iran offers a captivating journey through a land rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Iran boasts a wide range of attractions, from ancient historical sites to stunning landscapes.
The sightseeing section follows the direction of my travel, starting in Shiraz and ending in Tehran.
Shiraz
Shiraz is known as the city of poets, literature, and gardens. One of the principal cities in Iran, Shiraz is an historic and culturally rich city located in the southern part of the country.
The city has a long and illustrious history dating back over 4,000 years. It was the capital of the Persian Empire during the Zand Dynasty in the 18th century and played a significant role in Persian culture and politics.
Colourful cushions for sale at Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz.
Shiraz is often referred to as the “City of Poets,” the “City of Gardens,” and the “City of Love” due to its association with Persian literature, lush gardens, and romantic ambiance.
Shiraz is renowned for its deep connection to Persian poetry and literature. It is the birthplace of some of Iran’s most celebrated poets, including Hafez and Saadi.
The city is known for its stunning Islamic architecture. Some of the most impressive landmarks include the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque (also known as the “Pink Mosque”) with its colorful stained-glass windows, and the Shah Cheragh Shrine, known for its dazzling mirror work and intricate tile designs.
Shiraz offers a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that makes it a captivating destination for anyone interested in exploring Iran’s rich heritage. It is a city where poetry comes to life, and visitors can immerse themselves in the timeless beauty of Persian culture.
Shiraz offers many days of sightseeing both inside the city and outside, where the spectacularly pink Maharloo Lake is a truly surreal sight.
The city is the best base from which to make daytrips to the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostam and Pasargadae.
Some of the sights of Shiraz include:
Nasir al-Mulk Mosque
Built during the Qajar dynasty, construction of the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque began in 1876 by the order of Mirza Hassan Ali Nasir-ol-Mulk, one of the lords of Shiraz.
Built during the Qajar dynasty, construction of the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque began in 1876 by the order of Mirza Hassan Ali Nasir-ol-Mulk, one of the lords and aristocrats of Shiraz and was completed in 1888.
The pink colour which covers the walls of the Pink Mosque was created by craftsmen who used an expensive glaze, which included gold.
The mosque is known for its many coloured glass Orsi windows and its fully tiled walls which feature a distinct pink colour.
One of the magnificent Muqarnas, a form of decorative vaulting, which is popular in Iranian-Islamic architecture, at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque.
Craftsmen used a very expensive glaze that contained gold to colour the tiles with pink. It is said that 20 kilograms of gold was used for this process. It is for this reason that the mosque is nicknamed the “Pink Mosque”.
Truly resplendent mosque decoration, at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz.
One of the standout architectural features at the Pink Mosque are the Muqarnas, a form of decorative vaulting, which is popular in Iranian-Islamic architecture.
A view of a Muqarna, surrounded by a sea of pretty pink tiles, at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz.
In muqarnas, the surface of a vault or dome is subdivided into niche-like cells that have no load-bearing function.
Also known as stalactite vaulting or honeycomb vaulting, the example at the Pink Mosque is truly stunning.
A smaller, but equally dazzling Muqarna, at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz.
Nasir al-Mulk Mosque is famous for its seven Orsi windows, which are made of a mixture of wood and colourful glass.
A view of the richly decorated interior of the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque.
Although stained glass is mostly popular in churches nowadays, the earliest discovered was in Syria from the 7th century CE.
A spectacular rainbow of stained glass makes the “Pink Mosque” one of the most beautiful in Iran.
There is evidence of techniques and recipes for obtaining stained glass by the Persian chemist Jabir ibn Hayyan who published his techniques as early as the 8th century CE.
The best time to photograph the windows at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque is in the early morning.
Photography Tips:
The best time to photograph the Orsi windows at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque is in the early morning – before 8am.
The best season for photography is in winter, when the sun is low in the sky. This low angle of sunlight fills the mosque with lots of colourful light. I visited during the summer when the sun is higher in the sky and the colourful light shadows are shorter.
Orsi differs from stained glass used in many churches and Ottoman mosques which serve as illuminated images rather than a source of light.
Orsi windows at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz.
Orsi windows are characterised for using pieces of colour glass, which are cut into different geometric shapes. Such shapes were used due to the prohibition of images and icons in Islamic art.
Orsi windows are characterised for using geometric shapes in their designs due to the prohibition of images and icons in Islamic art.
The main purpose of Orsi is creating colourful light on the interior of the building.
Nasir al-Mulk Mosque has seven wooden doors with colourful Orsi connecting the interior mosque to the courtyard.
A view of the courtyard at the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz.
Shahcheragh Shrine
A view of the Shahcheragh Shrine, the holiest shrine in the city of Shiraz, during the magical ‘golden hour’.
The Shahcheragh Shrine is the holiest shrine in the city of Shiraz and the 3rd holiest shrine in Iran.
The shrine houses the tomb of Ahmed bin Musa, the son of Musa al-Kadhim, who is known as Shah Cheragh (King of the Light) in local traditions.
A view of one of the minarets at the golden porch at the Shahcheragh Shrine in Shiraz.
The first structure over the grave of Ahmed bin Musa was built in the 13th century CE.
Worshippers praying at the Tomb of Sayyid Ahmad, inside the Shahcheragh Shrine.
Like other Shia holy shrines, the interior of the shrine is decorated with a profusion of individually laid mirrors.
A view of the mirror-covered central dome, inside the Shahcheragh Shrine in Shiraz.
The mausoleum of Sayyid Ahmad is topped by a large dome which is covered in individually laid mirrors.
Visiting Tips:
Large cameras are not allowed inside the shrine – only smartphone cameras are permitted.
All tourists must be fully escorted by a friendly mosque guardian.
Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine
The Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine was constructed in the 10th century CE to honour a noble descendant of the prophet of Islam.
Welcome to the most tourist-friendly Islamic sight in Shiraz!
Built in Shiraz in the 10th century to honour a noble descendant of the prophet of Islam, the Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine is now a popular praying retreat for Muslims.
A view of the shrine of Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine.
Its peaceful ambiance, soothing architecture, and welcoming attitude of its caretakers toward any kind of visitors have made this shrine an attractive destination in Shiraz.
I was made to feel welcome in the visitor’s centre, where I was offered cups of tea and biscuits.
The shrine was constructed in the 10th centuryCE, to honour Ali Ibn Hamzeh, who was a descendant of the prophet of Islam and is a sacred figure for Shiites.
The shrine of Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine is installed below a dazzling mirror-covered central dome.
Ali Ibn Hamzeh was prosecuted by the caliph and fled to Shiraz in 805, but after staying hidden for some time, he was finally found and killed.
Every inch of the interior of the Ali Ibn Hamzeh Shrine is covered with tiny, hand-laid mirrors.
In around 950, the local ruler of Shiraz built a shrine which was later developed further.
Like other Shia Holy Shrines, the interior of this shrine offers a dazzling profusion of mirror work with each thumbnail-sized fragment being installed individually.
A truly stunning sight in a country which is full of breathtakingly beautiful wonders.
Qavam House
Located in the heart of Shiraz, Qavam House is a traditional and historical house and garden.
Located in the heart of the Iranian city of Shiraz, Qavam House – also known as Narenjestan garden, is a traditional and historical house and garden.
Built between 1879 and 1886, the building preserves the elegance and refinement enjoyed by upper-class Persian families during the 19th century.
A view of Qavam House from the garden.
Qavam House was built during the Qajar period in the late 19th century. At that time, the Qavam family was among the political figures of Shiraz, and Qavam House served as the residential place of the Qavam family and the office for their administration.
Since the garden has an abundance of sour orange trees, people call it Narenjestan. Interestingly, the Spanish world for ‘orange’ is naranja.
A wall mosaic, in the garden at Qavam House, which depicts three Qajari eunuchs.
The garden at Qavam House features date palms, and a large number of sour orange trees.
Persian gardens generally have a rectangular form consisting of four quarters abundant in trees and flowers, streams and pathways, ponds and fountains.
A symbol of wealth – the stunning mirrored porch at Qavam House was built during an age when only the wealthy could afford to buy mirrors.
A highlight of the house is the spectacular mirrored porch.
The ceiling of the mirrored porch at Qavam House, Shiraz.
In the 19th century, mirrors were an expensive item to purchase, with most mirrors imported from Russia. The use of mirrors was a way for a family to indicate its wealth.
Mirror Mirror on the Wall! A mirrored room, inside Qavam House, Shiraz.
Two smaller porches feature very fine plaster stucco work.
A porch at Qavam House features a profusion of plaster stucco work.
Qavam House has elaborate architecture embellished with various Persian arts such as paintings, stucco, wood carving, stone carving, tile work, and mirror work.
An artist at Qavam House, painting a miniature on a piece of stone.
In the basement of the house are some truly talented artists. One artist paints miniature images on bird feathers using a tiny brush made from cat’s fur.
This scene has been painted onto a feather, by an artist at Qavam House, using a tiny brush made from cat’s fur.
Eram Garden
Eram Garden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most famous Persian gardens in Shiraz.
Relaxing and expansive, Eram Garden is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most famous Persian gardens in Shiraz.
A view of the pavilion at Eram Garden.
It features meticulously landscaped gardens, fountains, and historic buildings, making it a peaceful oasis within the city.
Arg of Karim Khan
Located in the centre of Shiraz, the Karim Khan Citadel was built as part of a complex during the Zand dynasty.
The Arg of Karim Khan or Karim Khan Citadel, is a citadel located in downtown Shiraz, Iran. It was built as part of a complex during the Zand dynasty (1751 to 1794).
It is named after Karim Khan Zand, and served as his living quarters. It is rectangular in shape and resembles a medieval fortress.
The dynasty, which ruled most of ancient Iran, began as a Safavid restoration but soon became an independent effort to restore peace and prosperity.
It rebuilt and rerouted trade through Iran, issued coins in the name of the Hidden Imam, and built a mosque in Shiraz, but never sought clerical endorsement of power.
Buildings inside the Karim Khan Citadel feature Orsi windows.
Karim Khan Zand holds an enduring reputation as the most humane Iranian ruler of the Islamic era. His descendants were overthrown by the Qajars.
In the past, the citadel was sometimes used as a prison. Today, it is a museum operated by Iran’s Cultural Heritage Organization. A public park surrounds it.
Vakil Bazaar
A carpet seller in Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz.
In between all the sightseeing, the charming and historic Vakil Bazaar offers excellent shopping, especially for Persian rugs and Iranian handicrafts.
A view of one of the many covered laneways inside Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz.
A typical Iranian bazaar, centered around an ancient “caravanserai” which was an accommodation place built for merchants travelling by camels in the past.
A carpet shop at Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz.
The bazaar features a number of leafy squares with fountains in the centre, surrounded by two-storey guest houses which are now occupied by various artisanal shops.
Shopping at Vakil Bazaar, Shiraz.
A great place for shopping when in Shiraz.
Vakil Mosque
Vakil Mosque was built between 1751 and 1773, during the Zand period.
The Vakil Mosque is a mosque in downtown Shiraz, situated to the west of the Vakil Bazaar next to its entrance.
This mosque was built between 1751 and 1773, during the Zand period; however, it was restored in the 19th century during the Qajar period.
View of the interior of the Vakil Mosque.
Vakil means regent, which was the title used by Karim Khan, the founder of Zand Dynasty. Shiraz was the seat of Karim Khan’s government and he endowed many buildings, including this mosque.
Maharloo Lake
An aerial view, taken from my Flydubai flight, of the spectacularly pink Maharloo Lake.
Located 27 kilometres southeast of Shiraz, the very pink, Maharloo Lake, is a stunning natural attraction.
If arriving into Shiraz by air, there is a good chance you’ll fly over the lake on final approach to Shiraz International Airport. Worth sitting on a window for what is a truly dazzling sight.
The aerial views included here were taken in the morning from my flight from Dubai to Shiraz.
This unique and picturesque lake is known for its striking pink hue, which results from a combination of factors, making it a popular destination for tourists and nature enthusiasts.
A birthday girl, participating in a photography shoot at the very surreal Maharloo Lake.
The intensely striking pink colour is the result of the high salinity and the presence of microorganisms, particularly algae and bacteria. These microorganisms thrive in the salty waters and produce a red pigment, giving the lake its characteristic pink and reddish tones.
The very pink, Maharloo Lake, seen from my window seat on my Flydubai flight, on approach to Shiraz International Airport.
The intensity of the pink colour can vary depending on the time of day, weather conditions, and the season. At the time of my visit, the lake was at its most ‘pink’.
Sunset view of the very pink Maharloo Lake.
Maharloo Lake is a saltwater lake, and its water has a high salinity content. The salt concentration in the lake is the primary reason behind the absence of aquatic life in its waters. The lake’s salt flats and crystalline formations along the shoreline add to its unique natural beauty.
The lake is set against a backdrop of arid desert landscapes and distant mountains, creating a stunning contrast with its vibrant pink waters.
A surreal and spectacular sight – the very pink Maharloo Lake.
The reflection of the surrounding mountains and the changing colors of the lake’s surface make it a popular spot for photographers and nature enthusiasts. Best photography is in the late afternoon.
A highlight of Shiraz, Maharloo Lake is a magical place where the interplay of salt, microorganisms, and changing environmental conditions creates a remarkable and visually stunning sight.
Getting There:
Located on the outskirts Shiraz, in a remote, desert setting, you will need private transport to access the lake.
I recommend travelling with Essi (Instagram: Safarbon), a native of Shiraz, and someone who knows the best photo vantage points on the lake.
Persepolis
Founded by Darius I in 518 BCE, Persepolis is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the most popular tourist attraction in Iran.
Situated on the plains of Marvdasht, 60 km (37 miles) northeast of Shiraz, Persepolis is one of Iran’s most iconic and important archaeological sites.
Relief carving at Persepolis.
Not surprisingly, Persepolis is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is also the most popular tourist attraction in Iran.
Greek for “City of the Persians”, Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (550–330 BCE), which was once one of the world’s most powerful empires.
Many of the carved reliefs at Persepolis were carved from dark-grey marble.
The city was founded by Darius the Great in the late 6th century BCE and served as the centre for royal gatherings and celebrations. The city is known for its impressive ruins, including massive stone gateways, palaces, and intricately carved reliefs, many of which are carved from dark-grey marble.
Persepolis is renowned for its grand and imposing architecture. The site features a vast complex of palaces, halls, and other structures, primarily constructed of gray limestone.
Views of the ruins at Persepolis.
The buildings showcase intricate carvings, colossal columns, and exquisite detailing. It featured five “palaces”, or halls, of varying size, and grand entrances.
The entrance to the Apadana Palace features reliefs which pay homage to the King.
What makes Persepolis truly striking is that the entire city, which was constructed over a period of 200 years, was built atop a 27 metre (89 ft) high, man-made, walled plinth – the ultimate landscaping project!
Access to the top of the plinth, and the site itself, is via the monumental Grand Staircase, a wide, 111-step, stone staircase. The stairs were carved from massive blocks of stone, but each step was shallow so that Persians in long elegant robes could ascend the steps gracefully.
Due to its perched setting, Persepolis looms large over the surrounding plains.
Ruins of the Gate of All Nations at Persepolis, with two heavily damaged Lamassu’s at the front of the gate.
At the top of the Grand Staircase, the entrance to Persepolis is marked by two monumental gateways known as the Gate of All Nations.
Two heavily damaged Lamassu’s still stand guard at the front of the gate. These mythical creatures. which depicted a winged creature with the bearded head of a human and the body of a bull or a lion were normally installed at city entrances as a form of protection.
These gateways served as impressive entrances to the complex and displayed the empire’s multicultural character with depictions of various nations and ethnicities bringing tribute to the Persian king.
Carved reliefs line the main entrance to the Apadana Palace.
The Apadana Palace is one of the most prominent structures at Persepolis. It was used for audiences and royal receptions. The grand staircase leading to the Apadana is flanked by rows of beautifully carved stone columns.
A bas-relief from the Apadana Palace at Persepolis, depicting delegations bringing offerings to the king.
Persepolis is adorned with numerous reliefs and inscriptions that depict scenes of Persian kings, royal processions, and tribute-bearing delegates. The inscriptions are often written in Old Persian, Elamite, and Babylonian cuneiform scripts.
Views of the ruins at Persepolis.
As the name suggests, the Hundred-Column Hall is a vast hall supported by a forest of columns. While not actually containing 100 columns, it is an awe-inspiring structure with rows of columns that once held up the roof.
A column, covered in relief carvings, at Persepolis.
The function of Persepolis remains unclear. It was not one of the largest cities in Persia, let alone the rest of the empire, but appears to have been a grand ceremonial complex that was only occupied seasonally.
A bas-relief at Persepolis, representing a symbol in Zoroastrianism for ‘Nowruz’ – the Persian New Year!
Until recently, most archaeologists held that it was primarily used for celebrating Nowruz, the Persian New Year, held at the spring equinox, which is still an important annual festivity in modern Iran.
A perfectly preserved Huma bird column capital. This mystical bird is said to have spent its entire life flying and never came into contact with the earth’s surface.
Persepolis was once said to be the richest city under the sun.
A bas-relief from the Apadana Palace at Persepolis, depicting a delegation offering sheep to the king.
Unfortunately, the party was cut short by the arrival of Alexander the Great (who is not referred to as ‘Great’ by Iranians).
Arriving in 330 BCE, Alexander was on a mission to exact revenge against the Persians for their invasion of Greece…for the destruction of Athens, the burning of Greek temples, and all the other crimes the Persians had committed against the Greeks.
After a 4-month occupation, and looting, of Persepolis, and after one drunken party, Alexander, at the urging of the beautiful and seductive Thais, set fire to the Apadana Palace.
A bas-relief from the Apadana Palace at Persepolis, depicting delegations bringing offerings to the king.
All of this placed the Persian King, Darius III, in an untenable position. He was murdered by one of his satraps (a provincial governor in ancient Persia) only weeks later.
Getting There:
My guide, Essi, trying to keep cool on a 45-degree day at Persepolis in front of the ruins of the Apadana palace.
Located about a one-hour drive from Shiraz, the ancient city of Persepolis is a popular day trip from the city.
It’s best to travel with a knowledgeable guide who has their own transport.
I recommend travelling with Essi (Instagram: Safarbon) who is an excellent guide, a native of Shiraz, and someone who has an intimate knowledge of this part of Iran and of Persepolis.
Naqsh-e Rostam
Naqsh-e Rostam is an ancient archaeological tomb site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Located just 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) northwest of Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostam is an ancient archaeological tomb site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The site is renowned for its rock-cut tombs, reliefs, and historical significance, particularly its association with the Achaemenid Empire, whose rulers built nearby Persepolis.
Naqsh-e Rostam is famous for its impressive rock-cut tombs, hewn into the cliffs of a mountain. These tombs were created for Achaemenid kings and nobility and served as their final resting places.
A view of the tombs at Naqsh-e Rostam.
The four tombs are believed to be those of:
Darius I – aka “Darius the Great” – (c. 522-486 BC)
Xerxes I – son of Darius the Great (c. 486-465 BC)
Artaxerxes I – 3rd son of Xerxes I (c. 465-424 BC)
Darius II (c. 423-404 BC)
The order of the tombs follows (left to right): Darius II, Artaxerxes I, Darius I and Xerxes I.
A view of three of the tombs at Naqsh-e Rostam – from left to right: Darius II, Artaxerxes I and Darius I.
The tombs are characterised by their distinctive cross-shaped chambers, which are carved directly into the rock face.
Although closed to the public, each tomb chamber features a central chamber with smaller chambers branching off, where the remains of the deceased were likely placed.
While some of the tomb entrances feature elaborate reliefs, the panel next to the tomb of Xerxes I is blank – an ancient ‘work in progress’.
Above the tomb entrances, there are elaborate reliefs depicting scenes of royal and military triumphs, including the famous “Investiture of Ardashir I” relief, which shows the founder of the Sassanian Empire receiving the ring of kingship from the Zoroastrian deity Ahura Mazda.
Other reliefs include depictions of Achaemenid kings in audience with divine figures and their own court officials.
The reliefs at Naqsh-e Rostam provide valuable insights into the ancient Persian religion of Zoroastrianism, which pre-dates the arrival of Islam in the region. The symbolism and imagery in the reliefs are related to Zoroastrian beliefs and practices, emphasising the divine right of kings and the role of religion in the Achaemenid Empire.
During my visit, the tomb of Xerxes I was covered by scaffolding. To give a sense of scale, the height of the scaffolding was 65 metres (213 ft).
An ancient enigma – the purpose of the ‘Cube of Zoroaster’, a 5th-century B.C Achaemenid square tower remains a mystery.
Standing in front of the tombs is the mysterious Cube of Zoroaster, a 5th-century B.C Achaemenid square tower. A true enigma, the purpose of the tower is unknown.
Getting There:
My guide, Essi, buying delicious stone fruit from a roadside vendor (who is apparently a star on social media) near Naqsh-e Rostam.
Naqsh-e Rostam is located a short drive from Persepolis and can be visited on the same day trip.
Due to a complete lack of public transport, it’s best to travel with a guide who has transport.
I again recommend travelling with Essi (Instagram: Safarbon) when visiting Naqsh-e Rostam.
Pasargadae
A UNESCO World Heritage Site – the Tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasargadae.
Also, a day trip from Shiraz and yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site – Pasargadae is an ancient archaeological site which is located 135 km (a 2-hour drive), northeast of Shiraz.
Although there isn’t much to see today, the site holds immense historical significance as the first capital of the Achaemenid Empire (550–330 BCE) and is known for its historical, architectural, and cultural importance.
Pasargadae is considered to be the foundation of the Achaemenid Empire. It was founded by Cyrus the Great, one of the most celebrated figures in ancient Persian history, in the 6th century BCE.
It served as the capital of the Achaemenid Empire from the time of its founding until the capital was later moved to Persepolis by Darius the Great.
The most renowned and iconic feature of Pasargadae, and the one remaining site, is the Tomb of Cyrus the Great, which is often referred to as Cyrus’s Mausoleum.
This simple but impressive structure is a rectangular stone tomb built on a stepped platform. It is believed to be the final resting place of Cyrus, who is known for his benevolent rule and the Cylinder of Cyrus, one of the earliest declarations of human rights.
The reign of Cyrus the Great marked the beginning of a new era in ancient Persia – an era characterised by religious tolerance and the promotion of human rights.
Cyrus the Great – the founder of Human Rights!
“Cyrus the Great” truly was great!
In 539 BCE, the armies of Cyrus the Great, the first king of ancient Persia, conquered the city of Babylon (in modern Iraq).
But it was his next actions that marked a major advance for Man. He freed the slaves, declared that all people had the right to choose their own religion, and established racial equality.
These and other decrees were recorded on a baked-clay cylinder in the Akkadian language with cuneiform script. Known today as the “Cyrus Cylinder”, this ancient record has now been recognised as the world’s first charter ofhuman rights.
It is translated into all six official languages of the United Nations and its provisions parallel the first four Articles of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.
Cyrus was greatly loved by Persians and had the full respect of Alexander the Great who ordered his invading army not to touch Cyrus’s tomb. It is for this reason that the tomb is the one structure which remains intact today.
Getting There:
I travelled to Pasargadae on a day trip from Shiraz with my trusty guide – Essi (Instagram: Safarbon).
For lunch, we ate a traditional meal at a local family home, a short walk from Cyrus’s tomb. The family were friends of Essi – another advantage to travelling with a local guide.
Abarkuh
The ancient Abarkuh ice house in Yazd Province is one of the four remaining ice houses in Iran.
Ice Storage House
Rising up from the side of the road in the ancient desert town of Abarkuh is a strange, cone-shaped, mud-brick structure.
No! It’s not a strange ancient temple, or some other-worldly object, but an ingenious, ice storage house.
Popular in ancient Persia, such ice houses were built with a default structure consisting of four main parts – the shallow freezing pool, shadow-casting walls, ice storage and, of course, the conical dome.
When it was originally built, the Abarkuh ice house was completely enclosed and insulated. The hole in the ceiling dates from modern times.
Ice was produced, during the cold winter months, by pouring water into the shallow freezing pools. Overnight, ice would form. The next day, more water was added. The process was repeated each day until a thick layer of ice had formed.
Ice was produced during the cold winter months, then stored for use during the hot summer months.
This ice was then cut into slabs and stored inside the ice storage house where it would remain until it was needed during the hot summer months. Truly genius!
It is believed that such ice houses have existed in Iran since 400 BCE.
Perhaps even more peculiar than its shape are the ingredients used to make it – sand, clay, adobe, lime, egg whites, ashes and goat hair! From those ingredients, the Persians were able to make an ancient mortar called sarooj. Sarooj is water resistant and, acts as an affective insulator – ideal for storing ice.
Yadz
The iconic Amir Chakhmaq Complex dominates the centre of historic Yazd.
This desert city is known for its well-preserved historic architecture, including the Jameh Mosque, Amir Chakhmaq Complex, and traditional windcatchers.
Charming and engaging, Yazd is an historic and culturally rich city located in the middle of the desert in central Iran. The capital of the province of the same name, Yazd is known for its unique desert architecture, ancient history, Zoroastrian heritage, and distinct cultural traditions.
One of the most striking features of Yazd is its traditional desert architecture.
Yazd is known as the “The City of Windcatchers.”
The city’s old town is a labyrinth of narrow, winding alleys and mud-brick buildings with distinctive badgirs (wind towers) that serve as natural air conditioning, directing cool winds into the homes during the hot summer months.
This architectural style has earned Yazd the nickname “The City of Windcatchers.”
The city of Yazd is an important centre for the Zoroastrian religion. After the Muslim conquest of Persia (633 CE), many Zoroastrians migrated to Yazd from neighbouring provinces.
By paying a levy, Yazd was allowed to remain Zoroastrian even after the Muslim conquest. Today however, most inhabitants of Yazd are Shia Muslims, although many important Zoroastrian sights remain.
Amir Chakhmaq Complex
Reflections of the Amir Chakhmaq Complex in Yazd.
The Amir Chakhmaq Complex, with its beautiful façade and large square, is a prominent gathering place.
Reflections shots at the Amir Chakhmaq Complex – a prominent structure in Yazd, Iran, noted for its symmetrical sunken alcoves.
The Amir Chakhmaq Complex is an iconic structure in the heart of Yazd.
The complex, which overlooks the main square of Yazd, is home to a mosque, bathhouse, a water well and various shops.
Built in the 15th century, the complex is one of outstanding aesthetics and beauty. A fitting centre piece for this desert city.
Jameh Mosque of Yazd
Dating from the 14th-century, the Jameh Mosque is the principal mosque of Yazd.
The Jameh Mosque of Yazd is the grand, congregational mosque of Yazd city, within the Yazd Province of Iran.
This magnificent mosque is an architectural masterpiece. It features stunning tilework, intricate geometric designs, and an exquisite portal. The mosque is one of the highest in Iran and offers panoramic views of the city from its minarets.
This 14th-century mosque was constructed on the site of a former Zoroastrian fire temple.
The Jameh Mosque in Yazd is crowned by a pair of 52-metre-high minarets, the highest in Iran.
The standout feature of the Jameh Mosque are the twin, 52-metre-high minarets, which can be seen from anywhere in the city. They are the highest minarets in Iran.
Zoroastrian Fire Temple
The sacred Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Yazd houses a fire which has been burning continuously for more than 1,500 years.
Yazd is home to one of the world’s oldest monotheistic religions, Zoroastrianism, which originated in ancient Persia.
Zoroastrianism is an ancient Persian religion that may have originated as early as 4,000 years ago. Arguably the world’s first monotheistic faith, it’s one of the oldest religions still in existence.
The city has a significant Zoroastrian community, and important sights such as the Zoroastrian Fire Temple.
The holy fire, at the Zoroastrian fire temple in Yazd, has been burning for more than 1,500 years.
The temple houses a sacred fire (also known as Behram Fire), which has been burning continuously for more than 1,500 years, making it the longest burning flame in Iran.
The holy fire of the fire temple is in a large bronze furnace, and a person named Hirbod is responsible to keep it.
The sacred fire is installed in the temple behind an amber tinted glass enclosure. Only Zoroastrians are allowed to go to the sanctum area of the fire. Non-Zoroastrians can only view it from outside the glass chamber.
No one is allowed to breathe on the sacred fire!
Attendants, who tend to the fire to ensure it never dies, must wear white surgical gowns and masks.
The main entrance of the Zoroastrian Fire Temple features the ‘Faravahar’, a symbol from ancient Persia which represents the god of Zoroastrianism.
Adorning the main entrance of the temple is the Faravahar. a symbol from ancient Persia which features a winged sun disk with a seated male figure in the centre. It is thought to represent Ahura Mazda, the god of Zoroastrianism
Tower of Silence
The Tower of Silence, in Yazd, is a former Zoroastrian ‘sky burial’ sight.
Located on a hill on the outskirts of Yazd, the Tower of Silence, is a former Zoroastrian ‘sky burial’ sight which dates from 1672.
Zoroastrians believe that earth, fire and water are all holy elements, and thus do not pollute them by burying, burning or giving their dead to the water.
The stairway to the Tower of Silence, which is located on the outskirts of Yazd.
Instead, for many centuries, they placed their dead bodies, in rows, on the stone floor inside the tower of silence, letting vultures to consume the corpses.
In the middle of the tower exists a pit known as Ostudan where the remaining bones were placed after they are stripped of meat. The bones were then covered in lime powder which decomposed the bones.
Inside the Tower of Silence, bodies of the deceased were laid out on this pavement, where they were devoured by vultures.
The practice was banned in Iran in 1966-1967, due to hygiene reasons.
Dowlat Abad Garden
Dating from 1747 CE, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Dowlat Abad Garden is a historical garden located in Yazd, Iran.
Dowlat Abad Garden is a historical garden in Yazd, Iran. The garden was created in 1747 by Mohammad Taghi Khan Bafqi who was the ruler of Yazd at the time.
Stained-glass windows, inside the pavilion at the Dowlat Abad Garden in Yazd.
He began the construction by ordering a 65-kilometre long Qanat (underground canal which transports water from distant mountains) with 5 root branches to be made to transfer water from Mehriz to the site.
The centerpiece of the Dowlat Abad Garden is the pavilion and its 33.8 metre tall windcatcher!
The centerpiece of the garden is a 33.8 metre tall windcatcher, the tallest adobe-made windcatcher in the world.
The pavilion at the Dowlat Abad Garden in Yazd features the most dazzling stained-glass windows.
It’s also known for its beautiful coloured-glass windows.
The 5-metre-high windows are constructed by cutting individual pieces of glass and inserted them between supporting wooden strips which act as frames for each piece of glass.
The pavilion features four large panels of stained-glass windows.
The garden was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.
Traditional Bazaars
A strikingly beautiful domed-ceiling illuminates one corner of Yazd bazaar.
For centuries, this desert oasis city was an important trading stop on the Silk Route. Around this trading activity grew a large sprawling bazaar which covers much of the old town.
Yazd has vibrant bazaars where you can shop for handicrafts, textiles, spices, and sweets. The bazaars are not only places for commerce but also for social interaction and cultural experiences.
A great place to wander and lose yourself!
Pahlevani and Zurkhaneh
Listed by UNESCO on the “Intangible Cultural Heritage List”, Zurkhaneh is an ancient form of sport.
One of the highlights of the city of Yazd was being able to attend a Pahlevani and Zurkhaneh performance.
Listed by UNESCO on the “Intangible Cultural Heritage List”, Zurkhanehis an ancient form of sport whose original purpose was to train Persian men as warriors and instill them with a sense of national pride in anticipation for the coming battles.
A combination of “gym workout meets performance art”, proceedings are led by the “morshed” who beats a drum and chants religious verses and poems.
Videos of Pahlevani and Zurkhaneh performance in Yazd, Iran:
The Zurkhaneh venue in Yazd is housed inside an ancient water reservoir which is a short walk from the Amir Chakhmaq Complex.
Regular training sessions last about 90 mins and consist mainly of ritual gymnastic movements and strength building exercises.
The performance starts with a 10-minute workout using heavy wooden clubs, known as a ‘meel’. The largest of these clubs each weigh 20-kilograms.
The Zurkhaneh venue in Yazd is housed inside an ancient water reservoir.
With links to Sufism, participants also practice whirling, which is done in sync with the drumming.
The energy in the room was truly electric. The chanting, drumming and actions of the participants formed a powerful energy mix.
The oldest participant was in his late 70’s while the youngest was a cute little boy who could certainly whirl.
Meybod
Meybod is an historic city located in the middle of the desert, 50 kilometres north of Yazd. Meybod is one of Iran’s oldest cities, with a history dating back thousands of years.
The arid climate and desert environment have influenced the city’s architecture, lifestyle, and traditions.
Pigeon Towers
Meybod is famous for its unique pigeon towers.
Meybod is famous for its unique pigeon towers, which were used to house pigeons and collect their droppings for use as fertiliser. These towers feature decorative designs and are a testament to the historical importance of agriculture in the region.
One such tower features 8,000 alcoves which could accommodate up to 8,000 nesting pigeon couples.
Pigeon towers were used to house pigeons and collect their droppings for use as fertiliser.
While pigeons are often seen as pests by modern day city dwellers, in ancient times pigeons were prized for one thing – their poop!
Apparently, pigeon poop is a much stronger fertiliser than regular manure.
This Pigeon tower features 8,000 alcoves which could accommodate up to 8,000 nesting pigeon couples.
The poop collected from this tower was used to fertilise gardens throughout town.
Narin Castle
The entrance to the ancient Narin Castle, one of Meybod’s most famous landmarks.
Narin Castle is one of Meybod’s most famous landmarks. It is an ancient mud-brick fortification that dates back to the Sassanian era (3rd to 7th centuries CE).
Dating from the Sassanian era (3rd to 7th centuries CE), Narin Castle is one of Meybod’s most famous landmarks.
The castle served both defensive and residential purposes and offers panoramic views of the town and surrounding desert.
Caravanserai
The Shah Abbasi Caravanserai in Meybod.
An important trading crossroads on the ancient Silk Route, Meybod has several caravanserais (roadside inns) that were once vital for travellers and merchants on the Silk Road.
A view of the domed entrance at the Shah Abbasi Caravanserai in Meybod.
The Safavid-era Shah Abbasi Caravanserai is particularly noteworthy.
Zilou Carpets
A reversible Zilou carpet, on the loom in Meybod.
The city of Meybod is registered by UNESCO as the city of handicrafts, and is home to the very special Zilou carpet.
Weaving a Zilou carpet at the Shah Abbasi Caravanserai in Meybod.
Originating in Mehbod, cotton, flat-weave, Zilou carpets are uniquely reversible. they can be displayed from either side.
Zilou carpets are uniquely reversible.
Carpet weavers demonstrate their skill at studios inside the Shah Abbasi Caravanserai, where souvenir carpets can be purchased.
Zilou carpets for sale in Meybod.
Inexpensive carpets can be purchased from the weavers at the Shah Abbasi Caravanserai.
Naeen
Located 113 km (70 mi) northwest of Meybod, the desert town of Naeen (also spelt Naein, Nain or Na’in) is situated in Esfahan province.
Naeen is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Iran, with a history dating back over 2,000 years. It has played a significant role in the cultural and architectural development of the region.
Naein has several historical caravanserais, which served as vital rest stops for travellers and merchants along the Silk Road.
Saffron Cottage Restaurant
Heaven for a travelling gourmet – the divine Saffron Cottage Restaurant in Naeen, the home of saffron-infused cuisine.
During our lunch stop in Naeen, Essi took me to a dear friend’s restaurant – Saffron Cottage – where we enjoyed a saffron-infused feast.
Located in the old part of town, inside a cool subterranean basement, away from the blistering desert heat, the restaurant is the brainchild of its enthusiastic owner, Davood, whose family owns a nearby Saffron farm.
Essi, Davood and his daughter, at the Saffron cottage Restaurant in Naeen.
Essi and Davood have been good friends for many years and it was nice to witness their reunion after a long separation due to the pandemic.
Our saffron-infused lunch at the Saffron Cottage Restaurant in in Naeen.
Saffron from the family farm can be purchased in the restaurant but can also be tasted, with almost every delicious, homemade, meal containing saffron.
Another highlight at the Saffron Cottage Restaurant is the camels’ milk saffron ice-cream. Divine!
Two of the highlights for me were the saffron-infused lemonade, so refreshing on a hot day, and the saffron ice-cream which is made from camels’ milk.
A memorable meal in a unique setting and all thanks to my amazing guide – Essi!
The Cover Photo: A view of the truly magnificent Shah Mosque, a highlight of Esfahan.
Often referred to as “Half of the World”, due to its immense architectural, artistic, and historical wealth, magnificent Esfahan, also spelt – Isfahan, is a highlight of Iran.
Esfahan is celebrated for its exceptional Safavid-era (17th century) architecture. The city’s buildings showcase exquisite tilework, Persian gardens, intricate mosaics, and stunning Persian and Islamic architectural elements.
Home to 2,220,000 souls, Esfahan is one of Iran’s oldest cities, with a history dating back over 2,500 years. It has been a prominent centre for culture, trade, and politics throughout its long history.
The city flourished between the 9th and 18th centuries. Under the Safavid dynasty, Esfahan became the capital of Persia, for the second time in its history, under Shah Abbas the Great.
It was Shah Abbas who was responsible for building many of the impressive sights which awe visitors today.
Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Sunset view of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the main square of Esfahan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and once the largest square in the world.
Lying at the heart of Esfahan is the truly impressive Naqsh-e Jahan Square (translates as “Exemplar of the World“), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Also known as Iman Square, it was once the largest square in the world.
Today, it’s ranked as the 2nd largest square in the world – after Beijing’s Tiananmen Square – although Naqsh-e Jahan Square is much more lively, less formal and more inviting than the austere Tiananmen Square.
A view, from the balcony of the Ali Qapu Palace, of the southern half of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the main square of Esfahan.
A magnet for tourists and locals, Iman Squareis home to a sprawling bazaar and four truly spectacular sights which adorn each side of the square – the overwhelmingly large Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the stunningly beautiful Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, the Ali Qapu Palace and the very ornate Qeysarie Gate.
A view, from the balcony of the Ali Qapu Palace, of the northern half of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the main square of Esfahan.
The best sunset views of the square are from the terrace of the Qeysarie Café which is located on the northern side of the square. Please refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details.
Shah Mosque (Imam Mosque)
A view of the main courtyard of the Shah Mosque, where almost half a million handmade tiles were used!
Located on the southern side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Shah Mosque is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, featuring stunning tilework, calligraphy, and architectural details.
The entrance portal at the Shah Mosque features a beautiful Muqarna.
In 1598, When Shah Abbas decided to move his capital to Esfahan, he commenced the largest building project ever seen in ancient Persia.
The crown jewel in this monumental project was the Shah Mosque, which would replace the older Jameh Mosque in conducting the Friday prayers.
Tilework, and calligraphy, at the Shah Mosque in Esfahan.
Construction of the Shah Mosque began in 1611 under Shah Abbas, and was completed around 1630 during the rule of Shah Safi, Abbas’s successor, who ruled from 1629 to 1642.
Every inch of surface space at the Shah Mosque is covered with the most exquisite tilework.
The walls of the courtyard contain the most exquisite sunken porches, framed by painted tiles of deep blue and yellow.
During my visit, the main dome of the mosque was under renovation.
A view of the mosque with its twin turquoise minarets and the main dome, which was under renovation during my visit.
The “four-Iwan” format, which can be seen at the Shah Mosque, was a signature architectural style for mosques built during the Safavid-era. It consisted of a central courtyard with the towering gateways of the four Iwan’s on each side of the courtyard.
The seven colours used in the tilework at the Shah Mosque include – dark Persian blue, light Turkish blue, white, black, yellow, green and ‘biscuit’ (light golden yellow).
The splendour of the mosque is mainly due to the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions. The colours used for the tilework include dark Persian blue, light Turkish blue, white, black, yellow, green and biscuit (light golden yellow).
Every surface of the Shah Mosque is covered with hand-glazed tiles which feature just seven different colours.
While the tiles are predominantly blue, the walkways feature tiles of cooler, yellowy-green shades.
A view from one Iwan, across to the main mosque at the Shah Mosque complex.
As with the nearby Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, the architect employed an L-shaped vestibule to account for the difference between the direction of qibla (Mecca), and the gateway of the mosque on the main square.
This view of the Shah Mosque shows the main entrance (left) on the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, with the mosque offset 45-degrees to face Mecca.
This simple architectural trick subtlety changes the orientation of visitors by 45-degrees.
A view of one of the lofty, tiled, domes, inside the main prayer hall at the Shah Mosque in Esfahan.
Like the other monuments on the square, the Shah Mosque is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Shah Mosque is a huge structure, reportedly constructed using 18 million bricks and 475,000 tiles.
The Shah Mosque is a huge structure, said to contain 18 million bricks and 475,000 tiles.
A view of the leafy courtyard of one of the two madrasas at the Shah Mosque.
Apart from the main mosque, the Shah Mosque complex includes two madrasa’s(religious schools) which face onto leafy courtyards.
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
A highlight of Esfahan, the magnificent Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is known for its impressively tiled interior.
Situated on the eastern side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, SheikhLotfollah Mosque is known for its delicate and intricate tilework, especially its dome.
The Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is considered a masterpiece of Iranian architecture.
Yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the SheikhLotfollah Mosque is considered a masterpiece of Iranian architecture.
The tiled dome of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, during the magical golden hour.
Of the four monuments that dominated the perimeter of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, this one was the first to be built.
Construction of the mosque started in 1603 and was finished in 1619.
It was built by the chief architect Mohammadreza Isfahani, during the reign of Shah Abbas I of Persia.
The Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque was built by shah Abbas as a private mosque for the royal court.
The purpose of this mosque was for it to be private to the royal court – unlike the Shah Mosque, which was meant for the public. For this reason, the mosque does not have any minarets and is smaller.
A wonder of the ancient world, the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is a dazzling sight.
It was not until centuries later, when the doors were opened to the public, that ordinary people could admire the effort that Shah Abbas had put into making this a sacred place for the ladies of his harem, and the exquisite tile-work, which is far superior to that covering the Shah Mosque.
Details of the Interior design of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque.
The creation of the calligraphy and tiles, which exceed, in both beauty and quality, anything previously created in the Islamic world, was overseen by Master calligrapher Ali Reza Abbasi.
The tilework on the interior side of the dome seems to lead the eye upwards toward its centre.
The tilework on the interior side of the dome seems to lead the eye upwards toward its centre, as the rings of ornamental bands filled with arabesque patterns become smaller and smaller.
Interior detail of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The monument’s architect was Mohammad-Reza Isfahani, who solved the problem of the difference between the direction of qibla (Mecca), and the gateway of the building on the square, by devising an L-shaped connecting vestibule between the entrance and the enclosure. This simple architectural trick changes the orientation of visitors by 45 degrees.
Because it was built as a private mosque for the royal court, the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque lacks a minaret.
The design of the tiles on the interior side of the dome seems to lead the eye upwards toward its centre, as the rings of ornamental bands, filled with arabesque patterns, become smaller and smaller.
A view of the turquoise cable molding – 32 lozenges which support each arch of the mosque.
One of the design highlights for me was the incredible turquoise cable molding of each supporting archway. Thirty-two lozenges diminish in size as they approach the centre of each arch.
A truly outstanding beauty of Islamic architecture.
Ali Qapu Palace
Located on the western side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Ali Qapu Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Located on the western side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Ali Qapu Palace is known for its ornate architecture and beautiful music hall.
A view of the ornate balcony at the Ali Qapu Palace in Esfahan.
A former imperial palace, it once served as the official residence of Persian Emperors of the Safavid dynasty.
The Ali Qapu Palace once served as the official residence of Persian Emperors of the Safavid dynasty.
UNESCO inscribed the Palace and the Square as a World Heritage Site due to its cultural and historical importance.
A view of the balcony at the Ali Qapu Palace, Esfahan.
The palace is forty-eight metres high and there are six floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase.
Sweeping views of the square are offered from the 5th floor balcony.
Qeysarie Gate
The stunning view of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Esfahan, from the private loft room at the top of Qeysariye Gate.
Qeysarie gate, which was built in the 17th century during the Safavid era, is an historical gate at the main entrance of the Bazaar of Isfahan and Qeysarie Bazaar in Isfahan, Iran.
The gate is located on the northern side of the square – the only cardinal point on the square which doesn’t feature a magnificent monument.
The gate originally had three floors, but the third floor was later destroyed. Today, a private loft room occupies the 3rd floor of the gate.
The best sunset views over Naqsh-e Jahan Square (the main square of Esfahan) are from the terrace of the Qeysariye Café.
The friendly staff at the Qeysariye Café can provide access to this private room which is accessed from the roof of the café.
For the best sunset views in town, you cannot beat the terrace of the Qeysariye Café which overlooks Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
This is where all the photographers congregate in the late afternoon, waiting to capture the magic which unfolds as the sun sets behind the square.
The evening view of the bustling Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Esfahan, from the terrace of the Qeysariye Café.
While the café also boasts a museum, the real highlight is hidden away up on the roof!
If you ask the friendly staff nicely, they’ll possibly provide access to a private room which is located in the loft of the Qeysariye Gate. This is the main gate on the north side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
The panoramic view from this private room is one of the best in Esfahan and you’ll most likely have it all to yourself!
Traditional Handicrafts
Esfahan is known for its traditional handicrafts, including the most exquisite copperware.
Esfahan is known for its traditional handicrafts, including exquisite Persian carpets, intricate miniature paintings, and fine silverware and copperware.
A carpet seller at one of the many carpet shops which line Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Esfahan.
The galleries which line the sides of Naqsh-e Jahan Square are home to a warren of shops selling artisanal wares, rugs and traditional handicrafts.
Wooden boxes, decorated with miniature Persian paintings, a popular souvenir item in Esfahan.
Jameh Mosque of Esfahan
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient Jameh Mosque, one of the first mosques built in Iran, features a central courtyard surrounded by four Iwans.
Historic Esfahan is brimming with UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
A view of one of the, opulently designed, Muqarnas, at the Jameh Mosque in Esfahan.
One such site, which is hidden away in the back laneways of Esfahan Bazaar, is the incredibly beautiful and very old Jameh Mosque, which dates from around 771 CE.
A view of three of the four Iwans which line the central courtyard at the Jameh Mosque in Esfahan.
The mosque is the result of continual construction, reconstruction, additions and renovations on the site from around 771 CE to the end of the 20th century.
A view from the east Iwan, across to the west Iwan, at the Jameh Mosque.
As with many mosques in Iran, it is believed that the Jameh Mosque is built on top of a former Zoroastrian fire temple.
A view of two of the four Iwans which line the central courtyard at the Jameh Mosque in Esfahan.
One of the first mosques to be built in ancient Persia, Jameh Mosque is one of the largest and most important monuments of Iranian-Islamic architecture in Iran and certainly a significant sight of interest.
A view from the north Iwan, across to the south Iwan, at the Jameh Mosque.
Detail of the Muqarna, which adorns the ceiling of the southern Iwan at the Jameh mosque in Esfahan.
The southern Iwan of the courtyard (leading to the mihrab) was distinguished from the other Iwans by being larger and by being embellished with large tiers of muqarnas.
The oldest part of the mosque complex is the ancient hypostyle hall which dates from the 8th century CE.
The hypostyle hall at the Jameh Mosque, is supported by many square, brick pillars.
The hypostyle hall is comprised of many rows of square, baked brick pillars. The reason for the square pillars was that it was easy to lay carpets on the floor of the prayer hall, whereas laying carpets around rounded pillars is much more difficult.
Detail of a Mihrab inside the hypostyle hall at the Jameh Mosque.
The pillars of the hypostyle hall support a vaulted ceiling which is festooned with many different styles of domes, all built using baked bricks.
A view of the domed ceiling of the hypostyle hall at the Jameh Mosque, all of which was constructed from baked bricks.
Throughout its history, most rulers of ancient Persia continued to expand and improve the Jameh Mosque.
The one notable exception was Shah Abbas I who was more preoccupied with his new constructions around the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, especially the Shah Mosque.
A view of one of the many smaller domes in the ancient hypostyle prayer hall.
The mosque today is an amalgamation of different styles and periods coalesced into one building, the details of which cannot always be easily dated. It’ a real mish-mash of architectural styles and influences.
One of the domes, inside the hypostyle hall at the Jameh Mosque.
Not easy to find, unless you are being guided by Essi of course, the Jameh Mosque is now thoroughly enmeshed with the surrounding structures of the bazaar and the old city.
Chehel Sotoun Palace
Yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Chehel Sotoun was built during the Safavid dynasty, during the reign of Shah Abbas II in the 17th century.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Chehel Sotoun is an historic palace located a short walk from Naqsh-e Jahan.
The name “Chehel Sotoun” translates to “Forty Columns” in Persian, referring to the twenty slender wooden columns that are reflected in the pool in front of the palace, creating the illusion of forty columns.
A view of the entrance pavilion at Chehel Sotoun Palace, which is supported by twenty wooden columns.
Chehel Sotoun was built during the Safavid dynasty, specifically during the reign of Shah Abbas II in the 17th century. The architectural style reflects the grandeur and opulence of the Safavid era, characterised by the use of intricate tilework, frescoes, and symmetrical designs.
A view of the ceiling of the main hall of the Chehel Sotoun Palace in Esfahan.
The palace is set within a large garden, and in front of the main building, there is a reflecting pool. The reflection of the palace and the surrounding trees in the pool is what gives the palace its name.
Colourful frescoes line the walls of the main hall at the Chehel Sotoun Palace in Esfahan.
The main hall of the palace is adorned with impressive frescoes and murals depicting historical and mythological scenes. These paintings showcase court ceremonies, battles, and scenes from Persian literature.
The main hall of the palace is adorned with impressive frescoes and murals depicting historical and mythological scenes.
The palace served as a venue for official receptions and state functions during the Safavid era. It was a place where the Shah would entertain foreign dignitaries and ambassadors.
The historical significance of Chehel Sotoun is tied to its role in the political and cultural life of the Safavid court.
Armenian Quarter
Vank Cathedral lies at the heart of the Armenian district of New Julfa in Esfahan.
Esfahan has a vibrant Armenian community, and the Armenian Quarter is known for its historical churches, including Vank Cathedral with its stunning frescoes and artifacts.
A view of the spectacular interior of Vank Cathedral.
Vank Cathedral, or the Holy Saviour Cathedral, is an Armenian Cathedral which lies at the heart of the Armenian district of New Julfa.
The walls of Vank cathedral are covered with frescoes.
The cathedral was established in 1606, built by the hundreds of thousands of Armenians who were forcibly resettled by Shah Abbas I in his new capital as part of his scorched-earth policy in Armenia during the Ottoman War of 1603-1618.
A view of the interior of Vank Cathedral, which was built by the Armenian community of Esfahan.
As part of Abbas’s forced resettlement of peoples from within his empire, as many as 300,000 Armenians (primarily from Jugha) were resettled in Esfahan during Abbas’ reign.
The walls of Vank Cathedral are painted with frescoes, some of which depict tortures inflicted upon Armenian martyrs by the Ottoman Empire.
In Esfahan, he ordered the establishment of a new quarter for these resettled Armenians from Old Julfa, and thus the Armenian Quarter of Isfahan was named New Julfa (today one of the largest Armenian quarters in the world).
A view of Vank Cathedral, the centre of the Armenian community in Esfahan.
The church also features an Armenian museum and memorial to the Armenian genocide.
Views of Vank Cathedral, Esfahan.
Outside, the streets of New Julfa are lined with Armenian cafes, restaurants and shops.
An Armenian Café in the New Julfa district of Esfahan.
Historic Bridges
The Allahverdi Khan Bridge, popularly known as Si-o-se-pol (bridge of thirty-three arches), which spans the, normally dry, Zayanderud river in Esfahan.
Esfahan is renowned for its historical bridges, including the Si-o-Se-Pol and the Khaju Bridge.
The Allahverdi Khan Bridge, popularly known as Si-o-se-pol (bridge of thirty-three arches) is the largest of the eleven historical bridges on the Zayanderud, the largest river of the Iranian Plateau.
The bridge was built in the early 17th century to serve as both a bridge and a dam. It is a popular recreational gathering place, and is one of the most famous examples of Iran’s Safavid architecture.
The Khaju Bridge in Esfahan is a popular gathering spot for locals at sunset.
These bridges serve as both functional crossings over the Zayandeh Rud River which is normally dry.
Esfahan Music Museum
The guide from the Esfahan Music Museum (left), and my regular guide, Essi, holding a very long Iranian horn instrument,
Located in the new part of town, the Esfahan Music Museum is a privately-run museum showcasing over 300 traditional Iranian musical instruments in a sleek gallery.
A collection of traditional Setars at the Esfahan Music Museum.
The museum is operated by enthusiastic and talented music students who provide fully guided tours with lots of demonstrati0ns on the different instruments.
A fascinating insight into the rich musical culture of Iran.
A display of traditional percussion instruments at the Esfahan Music Museum.
Located in Hasht Behesht Garden, entrance costs US$6, which includes a private concert at the conclusion of the guided tour.
Natanz
The entrance to the historic Jameh Mosque, a highlight of sleepy Natanz.
Located in the desert, 135 km north of Esfahan, the sleepy, oasis town of Natanz (pop: 14,000) is a garden town with a history dating back 2,500 years.
Jameh Mosque
The entrance of the Jameh Mosque of Natanz.
A highlight of Natanz is the ancient Jameh Mosque which dates from the 11th century (CE).
The Jameh Mosque of Natanz dates from the 11th century (CE).
It features a 37-metre-high minaret and the tomb of the 8th century mystic, Sheikh Nour al-Din Abdolsamad Isfahani Natanzi.
The main courtyard of the Jameh Mosque is lined with 4 ‘Iwans’ (alcoves).
The dome of the mosque, which is currently being renovated, was built in the 11th century, while other sections were constructed in the 14th century.
Detail of the entrance of the Jameh Mosque in Natanz.
Natanz Fire Temple
Located in Natanz, this Zoroastrian Fire Temple dates from the Sasanian era (224–651 CE).
Behind the mosque are the remains of an ancient Zoroastrian Fire Temple which dates from the Sasanian era (224–651 CE).
Very little remains of the structure.
A view of the ancient Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Natanz.
Natanz Nuclear Facility
In modern times, Natanz has gained international attention due to the Natanz Nuclear Facility, the largest such facility in the country, which is known for Iran’s nuclear enrichment activities.
The facility includes an underground uranium enrichment plant and has been a subject of international scrutiny and negotiations.
The facility lies on the side of the highway, north of Natanz, on the road to Kashan.
Strictly – no photos allowed as you pass the facility!
Abyaneh
Located in the desert, halfway between Esfahan and Kashan, the village of Abyaneh is famous for its ochre red mud-brick houses.
Located in the mountains, between Esfahan and Kashan, the remote desert village of Abyaneh (population: 300) is famous for its ochre red mud-brick houses.
Little changed over the centuries, Abyaneh is often referred to as an “ancient living museum”.
This ancient village, which has largely preserved its culture, language, architecture, costume and traditional rituals over the centuries, remains largely unaffected by the modern world.
Colourful, handmade shoes for sale in historic village of Abyaneh.
Abyaneh is often referred to as an “ancient living museum” due to its history, which dates back over 2,000 years.
Sharing lunch, with my guide Essi, at the Domiloon Restaurant in Abyaneh.
The village has been continuously inhabited, making it one of Iran’s oldest settlements.
The ochre-red colour of the village is due to a high iron oxide level in the surrounding soil.
Abyaneh’s distinctive red mud-brick houses, known as “kharanegh,” are designed with thick walls to withstand harsh weather conditions, including heavy snowfall in winter and scorching heat in summer.
Souvenirs for sale in Abyaneh village.
The reddish hue of the buildings comes from the local clay and is a defining characteristic of the village.
Reflections in Abyaneh village.
The villagers in Abyaneh often wear traditional clothing, which includes colourful and ornate dresses for women and white garments for men.
Abyaneh village is considered to be one of the oldest, and most authentic villages, in Iran.
Abyaneh is known for its local handicrafts, including intricate traditional embroidery and textiles, which can be found in the village’s shops and market stalls.
Traditional housing in Abyaneh village.
Kashan
Located 2,5 hours (209 km) north of Esfahan, and 250 km south of Tehran, the city of Kashan has a history dating back over 7,000 years, making it one of Iran’s, and the world’s, oldest continually inhabited cities.
For millennia, Kashan has served as an important centre for trade, culture, and craftsmanship along the Silk Road.
Trade bought great wealth to the city and some of this wealth was channeled into grandiose mansions in the ultimate game of “keeping up with the Joneses“.
The spectacular Agha Bozorg Mosque lies in the heart of historic Kashan.
Today, Kashan is known for its truly opulent historic houses known as “Kashan traditional houses” that showcase exquisite stucco work, elegant courtyards, and beautiful windcatchers (badgirs) designed to provide natural cooling.
No expense was spared when it came to building the finest of mansions for the city’s ruling class.
Tabatabai House
A view of the central courtyard at Tabatabai House.
One such mansion is Tabatabai House, which was built for the wealthy Tabatabai family.
Truly stunning, Tabatabai House is one of the most prominent historic houses of Kashan and Iran.
The house was built around 1880, during the reign of the Qajar dynasty. It is one of the most prominent historic houses of Kashan and Iran.
‘Orsi’ windows, inside Tabatabai House in Kashan.
Tabatabai House was designed by famed Persian architect Ali Maryam, who later designed nearby Borujerdi House.
An open domed-room at Tabatabai House.
A renowned architect, Ali Maryam, was responsible for designing many of the fine buildings which, today, draw the tourist hordes to Kashan.
A view of one of the many domed ceiling rooms at Tabatabai House.
Tabatabai House covers nearly 5,000 square metres and includes 40 rooms, four courtyards, four basements, three windcatchers, gardens and ponds.
A portico ceiling at Tabatabai House is lined with star-shaped mirrors.
The house is decorated with stone reliefs, stucco, and stained glass. A truly dazzling sight!
Stained glass windows and plasterwork inside one of the rooms at Tabatabai House.
Abbassian House
An exterior view of Abbasian House and its central courtyard.
Located a short walk from Tabatabai House, Abbassian House is another fine example of a grand Kashan mansion.
Built for a wealthy glass merchant, Abbassian House is one of the finest of Kashan’s historical mansions.
Haj Mohammad Ibrahim, a well-known glass merchant, commissioned this house in 1836.
One of the courtyards at Abbasian House.
The architectural style of Abbasian House is like other traditional houses in Kashan, with buildings arranged around a central courtyard.
A view of one of the many exquisitely designed dome-ceiling rooms at Abbasian House.
Common to houses built in Kashan, Abbasian House is placed below ground level. Therefore, visitors descend into the property when entering.
Iranian plaster work at Abbasian House is considered to be some of the finest in Iran.
This simple design trick allowed buildings to be closer to the subterranean aqueduct and it insulated the building during summer and winter.
One of the many domed rooms at Abbasian House.
Construction took 20 years, with hundreds of craftsmen creating what has been nominated as the most beautiful Iranian-Islamic residential building in Iran.
A view from one of the highly decorated Iwan’s (alcove) at Abbasian House.
The sprawling property is comprised of five, multi-level, courtyards and multi-story buildings which have been decorated with plaster reliefs, mirror work, and stained-glass.
A view from within an upper-floor room at Abbasian House, Kashan.
The structure of Abbasian House consists of several floors, courtyards, and buildings. The whole complex is finely decorated with Orsi windows, mirrors and plaster reliefs.
Abbassian House consists of several courtyards and multistorey buildings, and is decorated with plaster reliefs, mirror-work, and stained glass.
There are traces of original Iranian-Islamic architecture in every corner of the house.
A view of one of the courtyards at Abbasian House.
You can see it in the original designs, plaster patterns, and various decorations of this house.
The stunning design detail of the ceiling of the main Iwan at Abbasian House.
Its beauty is stunningly eye-catching. That’s why it is considered to be one of the most beautiful Iranian-Islamic residential buildings ever to be built.
A view of one of the Iwans at Abbasian House.
Borujerdi House
Interior of the main dome of the Borujerdi House in Kashan.
Also in the same neighbourhood, Borujerdi House was constructed in 1857, by everyone’s favourite architect Ali Maryam, for Seyyed Mehdi Borujerdi, a wealthy merchant.
Borujerdi House was built in the name of love – for the bride of Borujerdi, a wealthy merchant.
The mansion, which was built in the name of love, is decorated with stucco, glass work, and mirror work, and features frescoes by prominent painter Kamal-ol-Molk.
Interior of the Borujerdi House.
Seyyed fell in love with a girl from the affluent Tabatabai family, who lived nearby in the fanciest mansion in town. To impress her family, Seyyed built this mansion for his would-be bride.
Borujerdi House was built by architect Ali Maryam over a period of 18 years.
With no expense spared, construction took 18 years and employed 150 craftsmen. Love knows no bounds!
The bride came from the affluent Tabatabai family, for whom the architect had built the nearby Tabatabai House several years earlier.
To ensure success for his project, and ultimately the approval of the bride’s father, Borujerdi commissioned the architect, Ali Maryam, to build his magnificent mansion. Conveniently, Ali Maryam had also built the Tabatabai family mansion several years earlier.
Detail of interior decorations, including stucco work, at the Borujerdi House in Kashan.
In the end, the bride was happy, Mr Tabatabai gave approval for the wedding and the couple lived happily ever after in their fancy love pad.
Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse
The Sarbineh (dressing hall) at the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse in Kashan features a large octagonal hall and has an octagonal pool in the middle, separated by 8 pillars from the outer section.
The exquisitely designed Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse, also known as the Qasemi Bathhouse, is an ancient Persian hammam located in the heart of historic Kashan.
Constructed in the 16th century, the opulent Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse features exquisite design details.
Constructed in the 16th century, during the Safavid era, the bathhouse sustained damage in 1778 as a result of an earthquake and was renovated during the Qajar era.
The interior of the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse is decorated with turquoise and gold tilework, plasterwork, brickwork, as well as artistic paintings.
The bathhouse is named after Imamzadeh Sultan Amir Ahmad, whose mausoleum is nearby.
A view of the conical mosque roof at the Mausoleum of Sultan Amir Ahmad in Kashan.
The bathhouse is known for its beautiful turquoise and gold tile work.
A view of the Sarbineh (dressing hall) at the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse in Kashan.
The roof of the bathhouse is made of multiple domes that contain convex glasses to provide sufficient lighting to the bathhouse while concealing it from the outside.
A view of the interior decorations and tilework at the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse in Kashan.
Agha Bozorg Mosque
Built in the 18th century, a unique feature of the Agha Bozorg Mosque in Kashan is its sunken courtyard.
Agha Bozorg Mosque is an historical mosque, located in the heart of Kashan old town.
Thanks to the work of Ali Maryam, design elements from the Agha Bozorg Mosque can be seen elsewhere in Kashan.
This 18th-century complex is a fine example of Islamic architecture, with a mosque, a madrasah (religious school), and a beautiful sunken courtyard adorned with intricate tilework and calligraphy.
Ali Maryam, who designed many of the most beautiful mansions in Kashan, started his career as an architect at the Agha Bozorg Mosque.
The layout of the mosque is unique in that it sits above a subterranean, tree-lined, courtyard. This sunken space, which is cooler in the intense summer heat, is home to a Madrasah.
The Agha Bozorg Mosque has been described as “the finest Islamic complex in Kashan”.
The mosque has been described as “the finest Islamic complex in Kashan and one of the best of the mid-19th century”.
A sunset view of the Agha Bozorg Mosque in Kashan.
It was here where Ali Maryam, who designed many of the most beautiful mansions in Kashan, started his career as an architect.
The Agha Bozorg Mosque in Kashan features exquisite Iranian-Islamic architecture.
Kashan Bazaar
A highlight of Kashan bazaar is the spectacular Aminoddole Plaza, home to a stunning light well.
Kashan’s historic bazaar is a sprawling, vibrant, marketplace where you can shop for textiles, spices, carpets, ceramics, and local handicrafts.
A view of the very large Kashan bazaar.
A truly ancient bazaar which dates from the Seljuk era (10th -11th century CE), the covered laneways of Kashan bazaar sprawl for several kilometres throughout downtown Kashan.
Aminoddole Plaza, a masterpiece of Iranian design by architect Ali Maryam.
A highlight of Kashan bazaar is Aminoddole Plaza, a former caravanserai and one of several plazas in the grand Bazaar of Kashan, Iran.
The plaza was designed primarily for commerce, but in recent times has been used for important religious ceremonies. It used to be an important trading place on the Silk Road.
This outstanding example of Iranian design is hidden away inside the sprawling Kashan bazaar.
Aminoddole Plaza was designed by the famed Persian architect – Ali Maryam (of course!) whose many magnificent designs transformed Kashan.
Aminoddole Plaza is truly breathtaking in its intricate design.
Fin Garden
Located on the outskirts of Kashan, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed Persian garden is one of Kashan’s most famous attractions. It features lush gardens, reflecting pools, and historic pavilions, making it a tranquil oasis in the desert landscape.
Rosewater Production
An antique rosewater distillery in the old town of Kashan.
Kashan is famous for its rosewater, which is extracted from the fragrant rose petals grown in the surrounding region. The rosewater is used in culinary and cosmetic products and is an important part of local culture.
Shops throughout town distill and sell huge quantities of fragrant rosewater.
A modern rosewater distillery in the old town of Kashan.
Each morning at breakfast, the hotel staff served me a large glass of ice-cold rosewater. It was a refreshing start to the day, with the desert heat already topping 40-degrees.
Tehran
Government propaganda, which does not correspond with the sentiments of ordinary Iranians, adorns a building in Tehran!
Finally, to Tehran, the capital city, and largest city, of Iran.
The last stop on my 3-week meandering odyssey with my guide Essi. We had covered so much since leaving Shiraz and I had taken about 1,500 photos. Truly extraordinary!
Bustling Tehran (the traffic is intense) is located in the north-central part of the country and serves as the political, economic, cultural, and transportation hub of Iran.
Home to 8.6 million souls, Tehran is a sprawling metropolis with a rich history, a diverse population, and a wide range of attractions and activities.
Compared to other cities in Iran, Tehran is young – at just over 200 years old. Despite its youth, Tehran grew significantly in the 19th and 20th centuries, particularly during the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties.
It became Iran’s capital in the late 18th century and has played a central role in the country’s political and cultural development.
Tehran is home to numerous museums and cultural institutions, including the National Museum of Iran and the Golestan Palace Complex.
Golestan Palace
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Golestan Palace was built in the 16th century as part of the royal palace complex for the Qajar dynasty.
Golestan Palace is the one site in the capital which is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The palace was built in the 16th century, renovated in the 18th century and finally rebuilt in 1865. It is the former official royal Qajar complex in Tehran.
Golestan Palace consists of gardens, royal buildings, and collections of Iranian crafts and European presents from the 18th and 19th centuries.
One of the oldest historic monuments in Tehran, Golestan Palace belongs to a group of royal buildings that were once enclosed within the mud-thatched walls of Tehran’s arg (“citadel”).
Golestan Palace is covered with beautiful tilework.
Golestan Palace consists of gardens, royal buildings, and collections of Iranian crafts and European presents from the 18th and 19th centuries.
This historic palace complex in the heart of Tehran features beautifully decorated halls, gardens, and museums, offering visitors a glimpse into Iran’s royal history.
A view of the spectacular Marble Throne terrace, which was built between 1747-1751.
One of the highlights of Golestan Palace is the spectacular Marble Throne terrace, which was built between 1747-1751, by the order of Fath Ali Shah of the Qajar dynasty.
The terrace is adorned by paintings, marble-carvings, tile-work, stucco, mirrors, enamel, woodcarvings, and lattice windows. The Marble Throne terrace embodies the finest of Iranian architecture.
A highlight of Golestan Palace, the Marble Throne is made from yellow marble from Yazd Province.
The centre piece of the terrace is the famous Marble Throne, which is made from yellow marble from Yazd Province. The throne consists of sixty-five pieces of marble, and was designed by Mirza Baba Naqash Bashi (“head painter”) of the Qajar court.
The court and palace of Golestan became the official residence of the Qajar dynasty.
Coronations of the Qajar kings and formal court ceremonies were held on this terrace. The last coronation to be held at the Marble Throne was the coronation of Reza Shah of the Pahlavi dynasty, in 1925.
National Museum of Iran
The gold and silver foundation tablets of the Apadana Palace in Persepolis, a highlight of the National Museum of Iran.
Located a short walk from Golestan Palace, the National Museum of Iran is one of the oldest and most significant museums in the country.
It houses a vast and diverse collection of artifacts, spanning several millennia of Iran’s rich history and cultural heritage.
A human-headed winged bull (Lamassu) from Persepolis, at the National Museum of Iran.
A highlight of the museum are two foundation tablets, one in gold and the other in silver, from the Apadana Palace in Persepolis.
Found in stone boxes in 1933, they contain a trilingual inscription by Darius I (r. 522-486 BCE) in Old Persian, Elamite and Akkadian, which describes his Empire in broad geographical terms.
The museum is situated in two separate buildings: the Museum of Ancient Iran and the Museum of the Islamic Era.
Azadi Tower
Azadi Tower, also known as the Freedom Tower, is one of Tehran’s iconic landmarks.
The Azadi Tower, also known as the Freedom Tower, is one of Tehran’s iconic landmarks. It was built to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire and offers panoramic views of the city from its observation deck.
Azadi Tower showcases a fusion of white marble and stone, symbolising purity and strength.
It is one of the landmarks of Tehran, marking the west entrance to the city, and is part of the Azadi Cultural Complex, which also includes an underground museum.
The tower is about 45 metres (148 ft) tall and is completely clad in cut marble.
Azadi Tower was built to mark the 2,500-year celebration of the Persian Empire.
It was commissioned by Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, to mark the 2,500-year celebration of the Persian Empire and completed in 1971.
It also serves as the country’s “kilometre zero”
Accommodation
Due to sanctions, accommodation in Iran cannot be booked online using the usual booking services such as booking.com, hotels.com, Expedia etc.
One Iranian company – 1st Quest – fills this void by allowing you to book hotels, online, in advance, using a credit card.
This is an invaluable service since you need to specify on your Iranian visa application, your exact itinerary, including hotel names for each day you will be in Iran. For more on the visa application, please refer to the ‘Visa Requirement‘ section below.
Prepaying accommodation also removes a major expense which will save your precious USD cash reserves while in the country.
Shiraz
My basic room, at the Taha Traditional Hostel in Shiraz.
Yazd Friendly Hotel provides accommodation in a traditional hotel in the heart of Yazd Old Town. From the hotel, all the sights of Yazd are a short stroll away!
The courtyard at the Yazd Friendly Hotel.
My simply furnished, spacious, double room cost just €16 per night which included a delicious traditional breakfast, served in the courtyard directly outside my room.
Of all my hotels in Iran, the Yazd Friendly Hotel provided the best value.
My typical Iranian breakfast, which was served each morning at the Yazd Friendly Hotel.
A budget hotel, Yazd Friendly Hotel provides a total of 10 ensuite rooms which are clean and spacious.
All rooms open onto the tranquil, leafy, central courtyard which is where a scrumptious breakfast is served each morning.
Esfahan
My favourite hotel in Iran – Keryas Traditional Hotel in Esfahan.
The friendly reception staff at Keryas Traditional Hotel in Esfahan.
Of all my hotels in Iran – Keryas Traditional Hotel was my favourite!
My very comfortable, double room, at Keryas Traditional Hotel in Esfahan.
My beautiful, spacious double room cost €43 per night which included an amazing buffet breakfast in the courtyard directly outside my room.
A view of my spacious room at Keryas Traditional Hotel in Esfahan.
The hotel is centrally located next to Naqsh-e Jahan Square and directly behind the iconic turquoise dome of the Shah Mosque.
The courtyard at Keryas Traditional Hotel.
From the excellent service, which is provided by the enthusiastic staff, to the deluxe, spacious rooms which line the central courtyard, to the amazing buffet breakfast is served each morning in the courtyard – life at the Keryas Traditional Hotel is very relaxed and easy!
After breakfast, where I recommend the small pancakes with locally made jam and sour cream, you only need to step outside to find yourself in the heart of historic Esfahan.
Kashan
The courtyard of Falahati House, my very comfortable, and historic, hotel in Kashan.
Housed in a recently renovated Kashan historic house, the staff, rooms and ambience ticked all the boxes.
My comfortable double room cost €44 per night which included a very good breakfast in the, refreshingly cool, subterranean restaurant.
However, it’s all about location, location, location!
Unfortunately, Falahati House is in the wrong location, being situated about 2 km south of the main tourist area and well away from any shops or cafes. There is nothing in the immediate area which would appeal to visitors!
For this reason, I would recommend booking something closer to the historic houses’ neighbourhood, where there are many fine hotels, cafes and restaurants.
Tehran
My hotel in Tehran, the Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel is considered to be one of the finest hotels in Iran.
Although this is considered to be one of the top hotels in Iran, it would be rated as an average hotel in other parts of the world. The rooms, and facilities, are old and dated and the hotel is in need of a complete renovation.
However, it’s in an unbeatable location, being just a short stroll from the main sights of Golestan Palace and the Iran National Museum.
My comfortable double room cost €77 per night which included a buffet breakfast.
Strangely, there is a complete lack of restaurants and cafes anywhere near the hotel. What you will find in the surrounding neighbourhood are many shops selling automotive spare parts, hardware, toilets and bathroom accessories.
Eating Out
Spices for sale, at a shop in the Vakil Bazaar of Shiraz.
Like the cuisines of neighbouring countries, the cuisine of Iran reflects the influences of various civilisations that have occupied or traded with the region over centuries.
As with other countries in the region, grilled meat, particularly kebabs, is a significant part of Iranian cuisine. Popular varieties include koobideh (minced meat kebabs), barg (grilled lamb or beef fillets), and joojeh (grilled chicken).
Most meals are served with fresh, tasty salads and freshly baked flatbreads – which are normally served straight from the tandoor (‘Tanur‘ in Iran) oven.
Spices form an integral part of Iran cuisine, especially saffron, for which Iran is famous.
Saffron
One of the highlights at the Saffron Cottage Restaurant is the saffron-infused lemonade.
Saffron is a highly prized spice in Iranian cuisine, used for its distinct flavour and colour.
A great place to sample saffron-infused cuisine is the Saffron Cottage restaurant in Naeen where the owner, Davood prepares the most delectable dishes using saffron from his family’s farm.
Davood is a good friend of Essi, so if you are travelling with Essi, you will no doubt end up at the Saffron Cottage for lunch.
Rosewater
Damask roses for sale at a Rosewater shop in Kashan.
Rosewater holds cultural and culinary significance in Iranian cuisine. It is an essential ingredient in various Persian dishes, both sweet and savory. Rosewater adds a distinctive floral aroma and flavour to dishes, enhancing their overall taste.
In Turkey, Rosewater it is most commonly used to flavour Turkish Delight!
The main centre of Rosewater production is the town of Qamsar, which is located 30 km south of Kashan. Rosewater is produced in more than 1500 traditional distilleries in Qamsar, with much of it being sold in shops in Kashan.
Qamsar’s rosewater is made from a special rose called “damask rose”. It has a very distinctive flavour and is used heavily in Iranian cuisine and sweets. It is also used as a perfume among Muslims.
Rosewater from Qamsar has a special spiritual status too—it is used, each year, to wash the Kaaba shrine in Mecca, one of the most sacred sites in Islam.
Carrots Galore!
Popular in Iran, “Ab Havij Bastani” is an ice cream float using carrot juice.
Carrots appear in the most unlikely foods in Iran.
While the rest of the world has carrot cake, Iranians prefer to serve their carrots in an ice-cream float!
Yes – Ab Havij Bastani is an ice cream float using carrot juice and is very popular in Iran. It is quite tasty and oddly refreshing on a 40-degree day.
The most popular jam in Iran is carrot jam. It was served at every hotel I stayed at and was often the only choice of jam.
Faloodeh
Faloodeh, seen here in Shiraz, is a sorbet ice cream which is mixed with vermicelli rice noodles and rose water.
Also worth a special mention is Faloodeh,an ancient Persian sorbet ice cream which is made of such unusual ingredients as vermicelli rice noodles, rose water, lime juice, and different syrups.
Restaurants
Shiraz
Kateh Mas Restaurant
Delicious Iranian food, featuring Persian rice with crispy Tahdig, served at the excellent Kateh Mas Restaurant in Shiraz.
Hidden away, underneath one of the main streets of downtown Shiraz, the Kateh Mas Restaurant serves excellent Iranian cuisine with the most amazing ‘doogh‘ (a salty yoghurt drink which is known as ‘Ayran‘ in Turkey).
Live folk music is provided at meal times which adds to the atmosphere.
During my several visits, I was the only foreigner in attendance, with all other tables full of Iranian families who were enjoying the food and music.
All meals are served with Persian rice with crispy Tahdig, which is undoubtedly the most delicious and popular dish in Persian cuisine. Think of fluffy rice which is then flipped upside down to reveal a crispy golden crust at the top.
Truly delicious!
Cave Restaurant @ Bakuya Restaurant Complex
The Cave Restaurant is perched inside the hillside Bakuya Restaurant Complex, offering panoramic views of Shiraz and traditional Iranian cuisine.
Traditional Iranian cuisine, with my guide Essi, at the Cave Restaurant in Shiraz.
Yadz
Fazeli Café
The rooftop terrace of the Fazeli Café offers good Iranian cuisine and unbeatable views of Yazd old town.
Located in the heart of Yazd old town, on the rooftop of the Fazeli Hotel, the Fazeli Caféserves typical Iranian cuisine and deliciously refreshing drinks with an unbeatable view of Yazd old town.
This is the best place in town for sunset drinks – although without alcohol of course!
Esfahan
Mirza Soleiman Khan Rahnejat Mansion
The very popular ‘Mirza Soleiman Khan Rahnejat Mansion’ Restaurant, in Esfahan old town, serves very tasty Iranian cuisine.
Located in a laneway, a short walk from the main square, the very popular Mirza Soleiman Khan Rahnejat Mansion Restaurant serves the most delicious Iranian food in a cool, leafy garden.
The restaurant, which was fully renovated in 2017, is housed in a European-style mansion which was built during the Qajar era.
Kashan
Abbasi Teahouse and Restaurant
Essi, setting up the Australian flag at the Abbasi Teahouse and Restaurant in Kashan.
Occupying the basement of Abbasi house, this family-run restaurant is justly popular with visitors.
Traditional seating is arranged around a fountain and the menu features equally traditional dishes, such as kebabs and roasted vegetables and stews.
The restaurant has a collection of all world flags and will ensure visitors dine with their national flag.
Cafés
While tea is the drink of choice among Iranians – always served with a stick of crystallised sugar – coffee is becoming more popular among the youth of Iran.
Due to sanctions, Iran has been spared from the onslaught of international coffee shop chains. Instead, the Iranians have created their own coffee shops, which are so much better than any of the international chains.
While travelling in Iran, I was able to find excellent coffee in most towns.
Shiraz
Youlep Café
Located in the heart of Shiraz old town, the very popular Joulep Café serves excellent coffee and food.
Located on a square in Shiraz old town, next to the Vakil Mosque, the Joulep Café serves very good coffee, delicious cakes and food.
Cheesecake and coffee at the Joulep Café in Shiraz.
The café, and the square, are a great place to relax during sunset, after a busy day of sightseeing in historic Shiraz.
Yadz
Papasi Café
Located in the heart of Yazd old town, the Papasi Café serves excellent coffee and food in a beautifully styled environment.
While there are many places for coffee in Yazd, there is only one Papasi Café.
Being spoilt, with amazing coffee and a very personalised chocolate cake, at the truly divine Papasi Café in Yazd.
Located in the heart of the old town, a short walk from the Jameh Mosque, this café offers excellent coffee, cakes, and food, all served by the friendliest of staff in a beautifully styled environment.
Highly recommended!
Esfahan
Big and cosmopolitan Esfahan is brimming with excellent cafés. Caffeine addicts are spoilt for choice with excellent cafes located in most neighbourhoods.
Radio Café
Located in the heart of Esfahan, Radio Café serves excellent coffee and international food.
The centrally located Radio Café was one of many favourite cafés in Esfahan.
Centrally located a short walk from the main sights, such as Naqsh-e Jahan Square and Chehel Sotoon Palace, this modern café offers excellent coffee, very good international food and a wonderful ambience.
Some reviewers on TripAdvisor claim that this café serves the best coffee in Esfahan, I’m a very fussy coffee drinker and I concur!
Naqsh-e Jahan Square Cafés
One of many cafes, which are hidden away inside the shopping galleries which line Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Esfahan.
Tucked away, inside the shopping galleries which line Naqsh-e Jahan Square, there are a couple of funky, cavernous cafes which offer a respite from souvenir shopping.
Kashan
Dopaza Café
My favourite café in Kashan was the hip and funky Dopaza Café.
Both Essi and I agreed that our favourite café in Kashan was the hip and funky Dopaza Café. We would start each day by first having a coffee, or two, at this convivial café.
With almost all reviews on TripAdvisor rating the café as ‘excellent’, you know you are in good hands.
Avgoon Café
A view of the stunning interior of the Avgoon Café, which is located in the refreshingly cool basement of the Ameriha Hotel in Kashan.
Located around the corner from the Dopaza Café, the opulent Avgoon Café is located in the basement of the Saraye Ameriha (Ameriha Hotel) in Kashan.
A truly inviting space – the Avgoon Café at the Ameriha Hotel in Kashan.
Hotels in Kashan often locate their restaurants and cafes underground, where it is so much cooler.
The courtyard of the Ameriha Hotel, which was originally built as a private residence.
This sprawling mansion was originally built as a family residence during the Zand dynasty (1751-94 CE) for Agha Ameri, the governor of Kashan. The property has now been restored and transformed into a beautiful boutique hotel.
The Avgoon Café in Kashan, offers great coffee, served in a historical, opulently designed space.
Being the largest traditional house in Kashan, it has several interior and exterior yards, each consisting of pools and many rooms. It also has the highest wind catcher in Kashan.
Bars
Forget it! Alcohol is strictly banned in the Islamic Republic of Iran!
Prior to departing from Dubai International Airport on my Flydubai flight to Shiraz, the captain announced that no alcohol was allowed to be carried on the flight to Iran!
Upon arrival at Shiraz airport, all bags were x-rayed to ensure compliance!
Visa Requirements
My e-visa, which was issued by the Iranian consulate in Dubai.
Introduction
The Visa Policy of Iran has been relaxed in recent years and now allows most nationalities to apply for an “e-Visa”. I use quotes here because the Iranian e-Visa isn’t really an e-Visa!
As is typical of Iran, this “e-Visa” hasn’t simplified the visa process but has just added an additional layer to the original process.
The Iranian e-Visa is an electronic visa in name only!
Once you apply for the e-Visa, if successful, you will receive a ‘Visa Authorisation‘ letter via email from your sponsoring company.
You then must present yourself, along with the Visa Authorisation letter, at a (pre-designated) Iranian embassy/ consulate where you must then join the line to apply for a traditional visa.
No Passport Stamps
Being mindful of the fact that some countries, notably the United States, refuse admission to those who have travelled to Iran, the government of Iran does not stamp passports.
They also only provide a visa in the form of an electronic document – no visa is placed in your passport.
At the end of your visit, there will be no proof in your passport that you visited Iran.
However, if you cross a land border from a neighbouring country, you will have a passport stamp from the neighbouring country.
Visa Sponsorship
Twice before, many years ago, I had lodged my own applications for an Iranian visa at two different embassies. Both times, after many days of waiting, my applications were denied with no explanation given.
Today, if you apply independently for a visa, there is a good chance it will be denied.
The ensure a successful outcome, you need to apply for a visa through an Iranian-registered travel company.
I applied online though Tap Persia and received my Visa Authorisation letter in about 3 days.
Pay TAP Persia’s service fee of €28 (this is not the visa fee – just the service fee charged by Tap Persia).
Receive the Visa Authorisation Letter in 3-5 business days.
Collect (and pay) for your visa at your pre-selected embassy/airport.
A remarkable and efficient service, and the only way to ensure success when applying for an Iranian visa!
Visa Application Requirements
In order to apply for an Iranian visa through Tap Persia, you will need to submit the following:
A copy of the photo page of your passport.
A day-by-day Travel Planner which states where you’ll be each day and the name of your accommodation each evening. You can pre-book accommodation, online, using the services of 1st Quest.
A copy of a valid travel insurance policy which provides coverage in Iran. Due to sanctions, Iran is generally excluded from international travel insurance policies. You can purchase an inexpensive policy for Iran through Tap Persia.
You will need to pre-select the visa collection location, which will be either an embassy/ consulate or at an airport on arrival. Your Visa Authorisation letter will state where the visa can be issued. Since I applied from Dubai, I nominated the Iranian consulate in Dubai, where the application process took several hours. I received my actual visa the following day via email. Your visa will be issued only for the number of days specified on your application.My 22-day visa cost me 450 AED (US$122).
As I mentioned before – this is hardly a typical e-Visa process, but rather a traditional visa application process which has been dressed up as an e-Visa!
At the end of the day, you still need to go and join the long lines at the embassy/ consulate in order to receive your visa!
Getting There
My Flydubai boarding pass, flying from Dubai to Shiraz – a short hop across the Persian Gulf.
Air
Despite US-imposed sanctions, the aviation market in this country of 88-million people is thriving with numerous airlines and many international gateways to choose from.
Daily flights depart for most Iranian airports from both the major hubs of Dubai International Airport (aka The World’s Hub) and Istanbul International Airport.
An aerial view, taken from my Flydubai flight, of the spectacularly pink Maharloo Lake.
From Dubai, the excellent, flydubai, offer daily services to many cities in Iran. I flew from Dubai to Shiraz with flydubai, a short hop of 75-minutes, which offered spectacular views of the incredible Maharloo Lake on final approach to Shiraz.
A spectacular welcome to Iran – the very pink, Maharloo Lake, lies to the south of Shiraz.
At the end of my trip. I flew from Tehran to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines.
Due to sanctions, Iranian-based carriers are unable to purchase new, western made, aircraft to update their aging fleets.
Ageing fleets, coupled with poor safety regulations, has resulted in a series of aviation disasters and incidents in Iran. Because of this, in the last 25 years there have been 17 plane crashes, and 1500 deaths. From 2000 to 2006, 11 Iranian plane crashes claimed about 700 lives.
Airlines
There are currently 16 Iranian commercial airlines in operation, with Mahan Air being the largest carrier. Mahan Air currently operates flights to domestic destinations and international destinations, serving 44 destinations in 10 countries.
The oldest airline is the government-owned Iran Air (website is normally down) which has been in operation since 1944. As of 2023, it operates scheduled services to 72 international destinations.
A 2nd, smaller, government-owned carrier is Meraj Airlines which offers international connections to neighbouring countries such as Turkey, Iraq, Lebanon and Syria.
International Airports
Iran boasts no less than nine international airports that serve as major gateways for international travel and facilitate connections with cities around the world.
Following is a summary of Iran’s international airports, with a link to Wikipedia pages which list the connections for each airport.
Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport (IATA: IKA): Located approximately 30 kilometres southwest of Tehran, Imam Khomeini International Airport is Iran’s primary international gateway and one of the busiest airports in the country.
Tehran Mehrabad International Airport (THR): Mehrabad Airport, situated within Tehran city limits, primarily handles domestic flights. It serves as a secondary airport for the capital city.
Shiraz International Airport (SYZ): Located in the southern city of Shiraz, this airport serves as a key international gateway to Iran’s historical and cultural attractions. It offers international flights to destinations in Asia and the Middle East.
Esfahan International Airport (IFN): Esfahan International Airport, located in central Iran, provides international connections to nearby countries and serves as a convenient entry point for travelers exploring the historic city of Isfahan.
Mashhad International Airport (MHD): Mashhad, in northeastern Iran, is a major pilgrimage destination for Shia Muslims. Mashhad International Airport offers international flights to accommodate pilgrims and tourists visiting the city’s religious sites.
Tabriz International Airport(TBZ): Tabriz International Airport is situated in the northwest of Iran, near the border with Turkey. It handles international flights to destinations in Turkey and the Middle East.
Kish International Airport (KIH): Located on Kish Island in the Persian Gulf, this airport serves as a major gateway for tourists and travellers visiting the island’s resorts and attractions. It offers international connections, primarily to neighboring countries, notably Dubai. The airport offers a 14-day visa-free entry to foreign citizens who enter from a foreign country, and remain on Kish Island.
Bandar Abbas International Airport (BND): Bandar Abbas International Airport, situated in the southern coastal city of Bandar Abbas, provides international flights, particularly to destinations in the Persian Gulf region.
Ahvaz International Airport (AWZ): Ahvaz International Airport is located in the southwestern province of Khuzestan. It offers international flights to regional destinations.
Following are detailed descriptions of the three main international airports in Iran:
Iran Air – flies to/from Ahvaz, Bandar Abbas, Bandar Lengeh, Doha, Dubai–International, Isfahan, Kish, Kuwait City, Lamerd, Mashhad, Qeshm, Tehran–Mehrabad
Affordable taxis are available from all airports in Iran.
If you have arranged to travel with a guide (Essi is your man in Iran!), your guide will be waiting for you at the airport.
Land
Iran shares land borders with seven countries, acting as a link between the Middle East, Central Asia, and South Asia.
Iran’s western border is primarily with Iraq. This border stretches for approximately 1,458 kilometres (905 miles). It runs through mountainous regions, plateaus, and plains in both countries.
Iran shares a border with Turkey in the northwest, spanning approximately 499 kilometres (310 miles). The border traverses mountainous terrain and is a significant gateway for trade and transportation.
Iran’s short border with Armenia lies in the northwest and stretches for around 35 kilometres (22 miles) through mountainous terrain.
In the north, Iran shares a border with Azerbaijan, which includes both land and water borders (on the Caspian Sea). The land border extends for approximately 765 kilometres (475 miles) and runs through mountainous terrain.
Iran’s northeastern border is with Turkmenistan and spans about 992 kilometres (616 miles). This border runs through desert and semi-arid regions and serves as a significant crossing point for trade and commerce into what is the most closed country in the region.
Iran’s eastern border is with Afghanistan and is approximately 936 kilometres (582 miles) long. The border traverses mountainous terrain and arid regions. It is an important transit route for goods and people, including lots of Afghan refugees escaping from Taliban rule.
In the southeast, Iran shares a border with Pakistan that extends for about 959 kilometres (596 miles). The border crosses arid and mountainous areas and is a significant route for trade and travel between the two countries.
Sea
Persian Gulf
International ferries connect Iran to nearby countries around the Persian Gulf. For a complete schedule, and to make a booking, you should consult the Iran Ferry Booking page on the Tap Persia website.
Caspian Sea
To the north, Iran has a coastline along the Caspian Sea, which is shared with several countries, including Russia, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, and Azerbaijan.
The Caspian Sea is the world’s largest inland body of water, and Iran’s coastline spans approximately 740 kilometres (460 miles).
Getting Around
While Iran offers the usual range of public transport options, I travelled entirely with my guide Essi, in his trusty Peugeot.
We drove from Shiraz to Tehran, following the ‘Classic Route‘, making overnight stops at Yazd, Esfahan, Kashan and finally Tehran.
I highly recommend travelling with a nonweldable, local guide.
That’s the end of my Iran Travel Guide. If you wish to leave any feedback or comments, you can do so using the form below or through my Contact page.
Safe Travels!
Darren
Further Reading
Other taste2travel travel guides from the region include:
This is a Lesotho Photo Gallery from taste2travel.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.
I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 229 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a World Flags Trivia Quiz from taste2travel!
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Test your knowledge with this World Flags Quiz!
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04. The Elephant is one of the members of the "Big Five" game group. Which are the other members of this group?
Correct!Wrong!
05. The Rand is the unit of currency of which country?
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The South African rand, or simply the rand, is the official currency of both South Africa and the Southern African Common Monetary Area: South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho and Eswatini.
06. Which country is highlighted on the map?
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07. In terms of area, which is the smallest country in Africa?
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The Seychelles is the smallest African nation, with a total land area of just 452 km square (175 sq. mi).
08. Injera, a sour fermented pancake-like flatbread, is the national dish of which country?
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09. This is the flag of which country?
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10. Which is the most populous country in Africa?
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Nigeria is the most populous country in Africa, being home to 223,804,632 souls, which represents 15% of the total population of Africa.
11. Which country is highlighted on the map?
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12. The city of Bujumbura is located on which body of water?
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13. Which is the unit of currency of Libya?
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14. In terms of area, which is the largest country in Africa?
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Algeria is the biggest country in Africa and tenth-largest in the world, with a land area of 2,381,741 sq. km.
15. This is the flag of which country?
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16. Which is the capital of Mauritius?
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17. Which country is highlighted on the map?
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18. The pan-African colours of green, yellow and red appear on the flags of 13 African nations. From which country's flag were they originally adopted?
Correct!Wrong!
Green, yellow and red, the colours of the flag of Ethiopia, have come to represent the pan-Africanist ideology due to the country's history of having avoided being taken over by a colonial power. Numerous African countries have adopted the colours into their national flags, and they are similarly used as a symbol by many Pan-African organisations and the Rastafari movement.
19. The White Rhino is one of how many species of Rhino?
Correct!Wrong!
The five species of Rhino include the White rhinoceros, Black rhinoceros, Sumatran rhinoceros, Indian rhinoceros and Javan rhinoceros.
20. This is the flag of which country?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Burkina Faso has two horizontal bands in red and green. A yellow five-pointed star is in the centre, overlapping both bands of colour. The green, red and yellow are the Pan-African colours.
Travel Quiz 67: Africa Travel Quiz
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