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Officially adopted on December 12, 1963, the flag of Kenya has three equal width horizontal bands of black, red, and green.
The traditional Masai shield and crossed white spears are centered on the flag.
02. This is the flag of the oldest independent country in Africa, which is?
Correct!Wrong!
Ethiopia is the oldest independent country in Africa, and the three main colours of her flag were so often adopted by other African countries upon independence that they became known as the pan-African colours.
03. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The green colour on the flag of São Tomé and Príncipe alludes to the plentiful vegetation of the country, while the yellow stands for the tropical sun and cocoa, a key agricultural crop for the nation.
The red evokes the "struggle for independence", as well as equality. The two black stars on the yellow band represent the two islands that make up the country.
04. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The green colour on the Eritrean flag stands for the agriculture and livestock of the country, while the blue represents the bounty of the sea.
The red stands for the blood shed in the struggle for Eritrean independence, with the 30 leaves in the olive wreath representing the thirty years spent in the struggle.
05. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The white on the Algerian flag represents peace; the green, star, crescent represent Islam; and the red symbolises the blood of those killed fighting for independence in the Algerian War.
06. Africa is home to how many countries, and hence, how many national flags?
Source: Wikipedia
Correct!Wrong!
There are 54 countries in Africa today, according to the United Nations.
07. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The Ivory Coast flag is a vertical tricolor of orange, white, and green without any emblems. The vertical tricolor pattern is derived from the flag of France, which once ruled over the nation, so it serves as a symbol of the country's past.
The orange stripe stands for the nation's land, especially the savanna that dominates the northernmost parts of the country. The white band is a symbol of peace, while the green stripe represents the forests that dominate the southern portion of the nation.
08. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
A very colourful flag, the colours of the Seychelles flag are blue (for sky and sea), yellow (for the life-giving sun), red (for the people and their work for unity and love), white (for social justice and harmony), and green (for the land and natural environment).
09. This is the flag of Africa's newest independent nation, which is?
Correct!Wrong!
The Republic of South Sudan is the youngest nation in Africa, after gaining independence on 9 July 2011.
10. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The green pentagram, or five-pointed star, which lies at the centre of the Moroccan flag, is known as the Seal of Solomon. This symbol has Islamic and Jewish origins, and its five points are known to represent the five pillars of Islam: faith, prayer, charity, fasting, and pilgrimage.
11. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Sierra Leone is a tri-colour flag featuring equal horizontal bands of green, white, and blue.
Green represents agriculture and the mountains, while white represents unity and justice and the blue represents the sea which forms the southern border of the country.
12. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The blue stripe on Rwanda's flag represents happiness and peace. The yellow symbolises the country's mineral wealth and economic development and the green represents the country's natural resources and prosperity. The sun stands for unity, transparency and enlightenment from ignorance.
13. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The design of the flag of Botswana includes a central black stripe, with a white border, which represents racial cooperation and equality. The light blue background of the flag is associated with the sky and with water, a scarce and precious commodity in this desert country.
14. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Lesotho features a horizontal blue, white, and green tri-colour with a black 'mokorotlo' (a Basotho hat) in the centre.
15. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The 10 stars on the flag of Cape Verde represent the main islands of this archipelago nation. The blue represents the ocean and the sky. The band of white and red represents the road toward the construction of the nation, and its colours stand for peace (white) and effort (red).
The circle of yellow stars on a dark blue field is similar to the flag of Europe - which has 12 stars instead of 10!
16. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
Dazzling in its design, the flag of Swaziland is based on a military flag given by King Sobhuza II to the Swazi Pioneer Corps in 1941. It features five horizontal stripes - two blue stripes at the top and bottom, while the centre stripe is red. Two thin yellow stripes border the red stripe.
On the red stripe is an ox hide combat shield from the traditional Swazi Emasotsha Regiment, laid horizontally. The black and white colour of the shield represents racial harmony.
17. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Mozambique features a tri-colour with white fimbriations and a red triangle. The teal stripe represents the riches of the land, while the white fimbriations signify peace, black represents the African continent, yellow symbolises the country's minerals, and red represents the struggle for independence.
Set inside the red triangle is the image of a Kalashnikov rifle with a bayonet attached to the barrel. The flag of Mozambique is the only national flag to feature a modern weapon.
Also included is a hoe, superimposed on an open book, which in turn is superimposed on a yellow star.
The rifle stands for defense and vigilance, the open book symbolises the importance of education, the hoe represents the country's agriculture, and the star symbolises the spirit of the Mozambican people.
18. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The flag of Gabon is a horizontal tri-colour, featuring a green stripe, which represents the lush, tropical vegetation of Gabon, a yellow stripe, which represents the equator and the sun, and a blue stripe, which symbolises the Atlantic Ocean.
19. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The white triangle on the flag of Djibouti stands for peace., while the blue stripe represents the sea and sky and the green stripe symbolises earth. The red star stands for unity.
20. This is the flag of which African nation?
Correct!Wrong!
The green colour on the flag of Burundi symbolises hope, while the white symbolises peace, and the red represents those who fell in the struggle for independence.
The three stars represent the three ethnic groups that make up the majority of Burundi's population - the Tutsi, Hutu, and Twa.
Travel Quiz 59: African Flags Quiz
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This is a UNESCOWorld Heritage Sites Quiz from taste2travel!
How well do you know your UNESCO World Heritage Sites?
Test your knowledge with this quiz from taste2travel.
If you have an interest in UNESCO World Heritage Sites, don’t forget to check out my interactive map of all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
This is the 2nd UNESCO World Heritage Site quiz on taste2travel – you can find the 1st quiz here.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 219 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Somaliland Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: April 2023
Introduction
I have long had the dream to travel overland from Djibouti City to Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland. I admit, my dreams are a little bizarre and often end up placing me in enduring situations.
While on a recent trip to Djibouti, I decided to realise this travel dream…
Overland from Djibouti to Somaliland
Video: Goats on the road in Somaliland.
I’ve always said “Plain sailing is plain boring!“.
When it comes to travel journeys, those that are most vivid in my memory are ones which were painful, enduring, uncomfortable, eventful, and even somewhat tortuous!
The sort of journeys, that, while you are in the middle of them, you just want to escape from!
Of all the flights I’ve ever taken, I remember very few, because they were normally smooth, easy and uneventful.
The smooth journeys – i.e., plain sailing – tend to be unmemorable, while the painful journeys burn brightest in our memories, a reward for the suffering we experienced.
On the road, 5 AM somewhere in the middle of the Somaliland desert.
One such memorable journey is offered in the form of the nightly 4WD taxis which connect Djibouti City to Hargeisa – a journey of 410 km, almost entirely along desert tracks, a seemingly never-ending, 17-hour, marathon journey.
I have provided full coverage of this ordeal in the ‘Getting There‘ section below.
As for Somaliland, in 1991, it declared itself independent from a troublesome Somalia. However, the nations of the world were not willing to recognise its independence and, as of 2023, no country recognises the independence of Somaliland.
However, as I’ve outlined in the ‘History of Somaliland‘ section below, up until 1960, Somaliland existed as its own state, albeit controlled by the British, and known as British Somaliland.
It was only in 1960 that the British, who had recently won control of Italian Somaliland (present-day Somalia) decided to unite the two Somaliland’s into the Republic of Somalia.
Following years of civil war in Somalia, the political leaders in Somaliland, in 1991, declared independence. They simply wanted to go back to their pre-1960 living arrangement.
However, the international community isn’t onboard and wants the two regions to reunite.
Despite not being internationally recognised as an independent country, Somaliland has a functional government, established institutions, and a growing economy.
One unlikely tourist attraction in Hargeisa are the money changers in the central market.
Somaliland is known for its rich culture, history, and natural beauty, including stunning coastlines, rugged mountains, and ancient rock art sites.
The Somali’s are very friendly and welcoming and the country is very safe. Never did I feel threatened or in danger (except for the reckless driving through the desert).
While Somaliland has faced challenges such as droughts, poverty, and political instability, it remains an intriguing destination for adventurous, intrepid, travellers seeking to discover a unique and lesser-known part of the world.
The government is keen to encourage tourism and I was made to always feel welcome! Highly recommended!
Location
Somaliland is located in the Horn of Africa, in the eastern part of the continent. Its coastline faces the Gulf of Aden to the north and the east. Overall, Somaliland’s location is strategic, as it lies at the intersection of key trade routes and is a gateway to the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean.
Somaliland borders Djibouti to the northwest, Ethiopia to the west, and Somalia to the east and south. The capital city of Somaliland is Hargeisa, which is located in the northwestern interior part of the country.
The country covers an area of approximately 137,600 square kilometres (53,100 square miles), making it slightly larger than England.
History of Somaliland
A map showing the former colonial Somaliland’s. Source: Wikipedia
The region of Somaliland was originally known by the ancient Egyptians as the “Land of Punt”. It was known for its medieval port cities from which gums, resins, ostrich feathers, and slaves were exported. These ports, such as modern-day Berber, flourished between the 7th and the 12th century CE.
When the European nations began to partition Africa among themselves in the late 19th century, France already possessed (from 1862) a coaling station at Obock (present-day Djibouti) near the mouth of the Red Sea.
By the end of the 1880s, France had expanded its holdings to the area of present-day Djibouti, Britain had established a protectorate over the north coast, opposite its base at Aden (Yemen), and Italy controlled the remainder of the region (present-day Somalia).
These regions were known (from west to east) as French Somaliland, British Somaliland and Italian Somaliland.
Following Italy’s defeat during WWII, the British won control of Italian Somaliland.
In 1960, the British colonial authorities united British and Italian Somaliland to form the independent Republic of Somalia.
French Somaliland became independent as the Republic of Djibouti in 1977.
Did You Know?
A map, showing the five colonial Guianas in South America.
Just as the colonial powers had three Somaliland’s in Africa, they also had five Guiana’s in South America.
The five Guiana’s were located on the north-east coast of South America and were bound between the mouths of two important rivers – the Orinoco River in Venezuela (which defined the western limit of the Guiana’s) and the mouth of the Amazon River in Brazil (which defined the eastern limit).
The five Guiana’s were (from west to east):
Spanish Guiana – now the Guayana region of Venezuela
British Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Guyana
Dutch Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Suriname
French Guiana – still called French Guiana but known to the French as ‘Guyane’
Portuguese Guiana – now the Brazilian state of Amapa
Following the civil war that began in Somalia in the 1980s and the subsequent overthrow of that country’s government in 1991, a government opposition group, the Somali National Movement, secured the region comprising the former British Somaliland.
In May 1991 they announced that the 1960 federation was no longer valid and declared their region to be an independent state, henceforth to be known as the Republic of Somaliland.
Though not internationally recognised, Somaliland experienced relative stability, a sharp contrast to the civil war that continued to engulf Somalia.
Taking advantage of that stability, the Somaliland government was able to rebuild much of the region’s infrastructure, which had been damaged by years of warfare.
In 2001, 10 years after breaking away from Somalia, Somaliland still was not internationally recognised as an independent country.
Undeterred, the government held a referendum that year, the results of which clearly showed that Somaliland’s inhabitants supported the region’s claim of independence.
As it had in the past, in 2003 the Somaliland government rejected invitations to participate in peace talks aimed at reunifying Somalia, maintaining that its independent status precluded it from being a party to such discussions.
As of 2023, no foreign power recognises Somaliland’s sovereignty!
Ongoing Fighting
Most recently, clan elders in the eastern region of Sool, which borders Somalia’s semi-autonomous Puntland state, have expressed a desire to reunite with Somalia.
In February of 2023, heavy fighting broke out between Somaliland forces and militiamen in and around the town of Las Anod, the administrative centre of the Sool region.
Despite a cease fire being brokered at the time, intermittent clashes have occurred between Somaliland forces and militiamen and the issue remains unresolved.
People
A friendly Somali in Hargeisa.
The people of Somaliland are primarily ethnic Somali, with a few minority groups such as the Arab, Bantu, and Ethiopian Somali communities.
The Somali people in Somaliland are divided into various clans, which play a significant role in their society and culture. The largest clans in Somaliland include the Isaaq, Dir, and Darod clans.
The Isaaq clan is the dominant clan in Somaliland and holds political power in the region. The majority of the people in Somaliland practice Sunni Islam and the religion plays a significant role in their daily lives. Compared to neighbouring Djibouti, the brand of Islam in Somaliland is much stricter.
Family and community are highly valued in Somaliland, and there is a strong sense of community and social responsibility.
Somalilanders are known for their resilience and determination, having endured many years of conflict, poverty, and drought. Despite the challenges they have faced, Somalilanders remain proud of their cultural heritage and continue to strive for progress and development.
Flag
The flag of Somaliland.
The flag of Somaliland consists of three equal horizontal stripes of green, white, and red. In the centre of the white stripe, there is a black star.
The greenstripe represents the region’s vegetation and agriculture, while the white stripe represents peace and purity. The redstripe symbolizes the blood shed by the people in their struggle for independence. The black star represents the Somali people.
The flag of Somaliland, flying in front of a wall of Somaliland shillings, at a money exchange in Hargeisa.
The flag was adopted on October 14, 1996, after Somaliland declared independence from Somalia in 1991. The flag is a powerful symbol of the region’s identity and sovereignty.
Currency
The currency of Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling, whose bank notes are normally old, dusty, dirty and musty in smell.
The currency of Somaliland is the Somaliland shilling (SLSH), which is not internationally recognised, and as such, not exchangeable outside of the country.
The Somaliland shilling was introduced in 1994 as a replacement for the Somali shilling, which was no longer being issued in Somaliland due to political instability and currency devaluation.
The Somaliland shilling is rarely used by the Somali’s, who prefer digital payment platforms instead.
The Somaliland shilling is issued by the Central Bank of Somaliland (Baanka Somaliland) and comes in denominations of 500, 1000 and 5000.
Exchange Rate
Travellers to Somaliland are advised to bring US dollars or euros and exchange them for Somaliland shillings locally.
At the time of my visit (April 2023) the exchange rate against the US dollar was:
US$1 = 8,500 SLSH
Unlike in neighbouring Ethiopia or Eritrea, there is no official / unofficial money market in Somaliland. Money can be exchanged freely, on the street.
The main place to exchange money is with the numerous money changers in Hargeisa central market (see the ‘Money Exchange Market‘ section below).
Digital Payments
A fruit stand in Hargeisa market displays a telephone number where digital payments can be sent.
With the highest denomination bank note of 5,000 SLSH currently worth just US$0.58, most locals prefer to make payments using digital payment services, rather than carrying around bricks of dirty, dusty, musty-smelling bank notes.
Everyone, from market stall owners, to beggars in the street, display phone numbers where digital payments can be sent.
Money Exchange Market
A money changer in Hargeisa central market.
There are numerous money changers which sit in one area of the sprawling central market in Hargeisa. If you are looking for them, anyone can point you in the right direction.
Money, money, money! The red notes (1,000 shillings) are each worth USD$0.11, while the green notes (5,000 shillings) are worth US$0.58.
The money changers can be found perched behind money walls, which are made from bricks of 1,000 and 5,000 shilling bank notes. These wads are secured in place with high-tech, flimsy, tennis nets.
It’s strange to hand over one crisp USD bank note and receive a wad of dirty, musty-smelling Somaliland shillings in return.
The money changers accept a variety of hard currencies, with USD or Euro preferred. It’s all very informal and many other currencies are accepted. These guys are the ultimate currency collectors!
A money changer, retrieving a wad of 1,000 uncirculated bank notes from his safe box.
Out of curiosity, I asked one money changer if he had any uncirculated notes, since I hadn’t seen any new notes in Somaliland.
Straight from the Central Bank – an impressive wad of one thousand, uncirculated, 5,000 shilling bank notes – worth US$588.
He reached into his safe box and produced a wrapped packet of one thousand, uncirculated, 5,000 shilling bank notes – worth 5,000,000 shillings (US$588).
Money changers in Hargeisa central market.
It’s strange to see tennis netting being used to secure wads of cash – only in Somaliland.
In a country where bank notes are near worthless, most locals have no desire to carry wads of cash.
The money exchange market also speaks to how safe Somaliland is as a travel destination. There is no fear of robbery in Hargeisa. I felt completely safe at all times while in Somaliland.
Even the money changers have abandoned cash, with all of them displaying telephone numbers where digital payments can be made.
This open display of large sums of unsecured cash on the streets of Hargeisa reminded me of similar scenes I witnessed in Iraqand Iraqi Kurdistan (click to read my guides for these destinations).
On the streets of Sulaymaniyah, Erbil and Baghdad, money changers displayed wads of USD cash and other currencies, all of which were completely unsecured. There too, crime rates are very low.
It’s ironic that the city streets in former conflict zones, such as Iraq and Somaliland, are safer than the streets of European or North American cities, yet governments from western countries classify places such as Iraq and Somaliland as ‘High Risk / Do not Travel‘.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are rarely accepted in Somaliland.
However, as per the following section, you can use your credit card to withdraw USD cash from ATMs in Hargeisa.
ATMs
This ATM from Premier Bank, which only dispensed USD cash, and was located in the lobby of my hotel, the Maamuus Hotel.
ATMs, which only dispense USD cash, are available in Hargeisa and accept all major credit cards such as Visa and Mastercard. The ATMs are also on the Cirrus and Maestro networks.
The ATMs charge an additional 4% fee for their service.
One ATM from Premier Bank was located in the lobby of my hotel, the Maamuus Hotel.
My hotel room cost me US$20 per night with payment accepted only in USD cash. When I needed to pay, I simply withdrew USD cash from the ATM and handed it to reception staff. Easy!
Money Matters
In terms of hard currency, (i.e., USD cash), travelling in the Horn of Africa can be problematic. In countries such as Ethiopia and Eritrea, the purchase of hard currency is illegal, yet many payments (visa’s etc.) need to be made in USD cash.
If travelling to Eritrea(click to read my guide), you will need to carry enough USD cash to cover all expenses since credit cards are not accepted anywhere.
If travelling in Ethiopia, you can affectively halve all costs by changing USD cash “unofficially”.
Officially in Ethiopia, USD$100 = 5,400 ETB, while on the black market, USD$100 = 10,000 ETB (as of March 2023).
Unofficial transactions should never be conducted on the street, but in a safe, secure, indoor environment, such as a hotel lobby.
If you are travelling to Ethiopia after Somaliland, you should stock up on USD cash before you leave Hargeisa – but you should also read the following warning.
Warning: Carrying USD cash into Ethiopia
If you are planning to travel overland into Ethiopia from Hargeisa, you should be warned that Ethiopian customs have very rigorous checkpoints on the side of the road between the border town of Wajale and Jijiga.
I passed through at least two such checkpoints between Wajale and Jijiga and then one more checkpoint between Jijiga and the city of Harar.
At these checkpoints, you are required to present all of your belongings for a thorough inspection.
Prior to your belongings being inspected, you will undergo a rough, body frisking. The guards were always looking for money, which they seize, and then extract bribes in order to return (most) of the money.
Even if you have a concealed money belt, they will find this during the pat-down.
One guard tried to rip my wallet, which contained USD cash, out my hands but I wouldn’t let go. If locals tried such a thing they could be arrested.
If you are carrying USD cash, and you don’t want some guard hassling you for a bribe, it’s best to hide your cash in your shoes. They never look there!
It should be noted that Ethiopian law requires anyone entering Ethiopia via a land border to declare any cash exceeding USD$500 (or the equivalent in other foreign currency).
These controls exist because Ethiopia has a closed economy and the Ethiopian Birr, is weak and is unofficially worth twice as much as the official rate.
As for my luggage – I carry a camera bag, laptop bag and a travel bag. All three bags were thoroughly pulled apart, with every single compartment checked, every bit of camera equipment, and other electronic item, inspected.
The authorities were especially looking for drones. It seems these are banned in Ethiopia. They were always suspicious of my Canon camera and my three lenses and always referred me to a superior officer for further inspection.
The guards are rough, rude, disrespectful and have no regard for your belongings.
Costs
Coffee menu (prices in USD) at Café Barbera in Hargeisa, the finest café in Hargeisa.
Somaliland is a cheap travel destination which will be agreeable for even the most frugal of travellers.
I stayed in a comfortable hotel in Hargeisa which cost me just US$20 per night. A real bargain!
The company was established in 2002 by local entrepreneurs in Hargeisa and is today the leading provider of ICT services in Somaliland.
While waiting for 4 hours at the Djibouti / Somaliland border, the one thing I did was purchase a Telesom SIM card from a small kiosk.
The SIM card cost me just US$3 and included enough data to last for the entirety of my time in Somaliland.
The network coverage is especially impressive, with my phone receiving messages in the middle of the dessert, miles from anywhere!
Sightseeing
A map of Somaliland, at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.
Somaliland is a region with a rich cultural heritage and natural beauty, although its tourism industry is still developing and permits are required when travelling into the countryside.
Tour Companies
Due to the challenges of travelling in Somaliland, a local tour company can make life easier when taking trips into the countryside. One company which was recommended by my hotel is Somaliland Travel.
I was quoted US$250 for the 47 km trip to Laas Geel, the sight of ancient cave paintings which date back to 9,000 BCE.
Due to the cost, I decided to pass on the trip.
Hargeisa
A view of downtown Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland.
Hargeisa isn’t a city which offers many established tourist sights. Rather, this is a city which is best explored on foot, especially the large sprawling central market which covers most of the streets in the downtown area.
Hargeisa Central Market
Shoe shops are especially popular in Hargeisa Central market.
A highlight of the central market are the numerous money changers, who sit behind walls of cash. Please refer to the previous ‘Money Exchange Market‘ section for more on this.
Hargeisa Central Market sprawls throughout the side streets of downtown Hargeisa.
Elsewhere, the market is home to shops selling everything imaginable from shoes, clothing, appliances, produce, and much more.
Hargeisa Central Market is the beating, chaotic, bustling heart of the capital.
Hargeisa War Memorial
The Hargeisa War Memorial features a MiG-17 fighter jet of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby.
The Hargeisa War Memorial is located in Hargeisa’s Freedom Square, which lies on the main street of Hargeisa.
The newly built memorial consists of a MiG-17 fighter jet of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby during an unprecedented bombing campaign in 1988.
During the campaign, Somali fighter jets simply departed from nearby Hargeisa airport, turned, then bombed the city, which was then the second largest city in Somalia. Once the bombs had stopped falling, 90% of the city lay in ruin.
Strangely, it seems the MiG-17 has been installed facing the wrong way, with the front of the jet facing the back of the monument.
Tank Sculpture
A tank sculpture in downtown Hargeisa.
Located a short walk from the Hargeisa War Memorial is an interesting tank sculpture.
Eating Out
A restaurant in Hargeisa.
Cuisine
Somaliland cuisine is flavourful and diverse, and it reflects the region’s unique cultural heritage.
Due to its location on the Red Sea, and its history as a centre for trade, Somaliland cuisine features a mix of African, Middle Eastern, and Indian influences.
Bread for sale at the central market in Hargeisa.
One thing that differentiates Somaliland cuisine from its neighbours is that the ubiquitous regional staple – Enjera – features less in Somaliland.
The standard staple is either pasta, or rice, which is normally topped with a tomato-based meat stew.
Sambusa for sale in Hargeisa central market.
One of the most popular local snack foods, Sambusa, isn’t at all local, but has been introduced from southern Asia, where it is known as Samosa.
Restaurants/ Cafes
Cafè Barbera
Located in downtown Hargeisa, Café Barbera is a popular café with local expats.
One of the more popular cafés/ restaurants in Hargeisa is Cafè Barbera which is part of a larger Italian café chain which operates cafes around the world.
The best coffee in Hargeisa is served at Café Barbera.
Tucked away on the 1st floor of a downtown mall, Café Barbera specialises in Italian cuisine and serves the best coffee in town.
Bars
There are absolutely no bars in Somaliland, which is a strict Islamic country.
Accommodation
The perfectly adequate Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.
With a complete lack of international hotel brands, accommodation options in Somaliland have been built by locals and tend to be more basic with limited amenities.
While in Hargeisa, I stayed at the more than adequate Hotel Maamuus which is located on the main street, east of the centre.
My room at the Maamuus Hotel in Hargeisa.
The entire hotel complex, which includes a gym, restaurant and two accommodation blocks, is housed inside a secured compound.
I paid US$20 per night for a ‘Standard single‘. Other room categories, such as ‘Deluxe’ and ‘Suite’, include double beds.
To pay for my room, I simply withdrew USD cash from the ATM which is conveniently located in front of the reception desk.
Breakfast is normally available in the popular hotel restaurant, but, during my visit, this was closed due to Ramadan.
Visa Requirements
My visa for Somaliland, which was issued at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.
The visa policy of Somaliland is outlined on the Visa Section page of the Somaliland Immigration website.
Currently, citizens of the following countries are able to apply for a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA) at all Somaliland Ports of entry:
Bahrain
Brazil
Canada
China
Djibouti
Egypt
Ethiopia
EU Citizens
Kenya
Kuwait
Morocco
Oman
Qatar
Russia
Saudi Arabia
Somalia
South Africa
South Sudan
Sudan
Taiwan
Tunisia
Turkey
UAE
Uganda
USA
All other nationalities are required to apply for a visa in advance from a Somaliland mission.
The best places to apply are either Djibouti or Addis Ababa.
Somaliland Visas in Djibouti
The entrance of the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti.
Somaliland tourist visas are issued without fuss at the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti at a cost of US$60, which can be paid in USD of DJF.
The visa processing time is 24 hours, although the mission is closed on Friday and Saturday for the Islamic weekend. If you submit your application on a Thursday, you’ll have to wait until Sunday to receive your passport.
A display at the Somaliland mission in Djibouti.
The very helpful staff member actually completed the application form for me and was happy that I had chosen to visit Somaliland. The government is keen to encourage tourism.
The mission is located in the Plateau du Serpent neighbourhood of Djibouti City. Most taxi drivers know the mission and should charge a fare of DJF 500 from downtown.
Note:
When you pay for your visa, you’ll be handed a receipt.
It was explained to me at the mission that you need to keep this receipt safe as immigration will ask for it upon entry and exit from Somaliland.
If you are unable to produce your receipt, you’ll be required to pay the visa fee again!
When I exited from Somaliland, immigration kept the receipt.
Getting There
Air
Hargeisa
Flights to Hargeisa arrive at Egal International Airport (IATA: HGA) which is located six kilometres southwest of downtown Hargeisa.
Named after Somaliland’s second president, Muhammad Haji Ibrahim Egal, the airport underwent major renovations in 2012–2013.
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Egal International Airport:
The land borders between Somaliland and Djibouti / Ethiopia are currently open.
Djibouti Border Crossing
Somaliland Toyota Land Cruisers at the Somaliland/ Djibouti border.
The border between Djibouti and Somaliland is located in the Djibouti town of Loyada, which is a 20 to 30-minute drive from Djibouti City. The only section of sealed road on the entire trip is on the Djibouti side of the border.
Toyota Land Cruisers
My Toyota Land Cruiser ‘taxi’, getting ready to depart from Djibouti City.
Old, beat-up, Toyota Land Cruisers (1990’s models) shuttle daily between Djibouti City and Hargeisa.
These vehicles are well beyond their expiry date and are prone to constant breakdowns in the middle of the desert, in the middle of the night.
True workhorses, these vehicles have spent almost all of the lives bouncing along rough desert tracks.
Early morning view of the long and windy track which leads through the desert to Hargeisa.
Our vehicle broke down several times in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night.
The drivers are all expert mechanics, with our driver using bits of rags and plastic bags to fix our engine problems. Amazing to watch!
A rest stop, in a small town in the middle of nowhere, the only town we passed through during the entire journey.
Also amazing are the stars in the night sky!
A breakdown provides a welcome break from the manic driving and blaring, non-stop music (noise).
It’s pitch black out there, and the night sky is truly dazzling.
Taking a break so my fellow passengers, all of whom were Muslims, could observe the sunrise pray.
Seat Prices
Each car carries up to 11 paying passengers.
The two seats up front, next to the driver, cost US$40, while the seats in the middle row (seats 4) cost US$30.
In the very rear, floor space costs less. On my trip, the rear section was occupied by a family of 4.
When bouncing for 17-hours along desert tracks, I recommend paying extra to ride up front next to the driver.
Since I was carrying my laptop bag and camera bag, plus a bag of breakable items which had been removed from my travel bag, I paid US$80 to have the two front seats. The driver seemed also to appreciate the extra space!
All fares are paid to the driver in cash (USD of DJF).
Leaving from Djibouti City
Somaliland 4WDs, waiting on Avenue 26 in Djibouti City.
If leaving from Djibouti City, you’ll find the Somaliland 4WDs lined up each afternoon along the side of Avenue 26, which lies 2 km south of downtown Djibouti.
Every taxi driver in Djibouti City knows the location of the Somaliland taxis and should only charge you a fare of DJF 500 to deliver you there.
When you arrive, you’ll notice nothing is organised. There is no set taxi station, no office, not even a desk. Just a few people standing about.
Somaliland 4WD’s on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.
Rather, what you will see are clusters of Somaliland-registered Toyota Land Cruisers parked on the side of the road, with many being loaded up with bags of freight.
Video: Packing the 4WD for our trip from Djibouti City to Hargeisa, Somaliland.
The 4WD’s normally depart around 5pm, but the schedule depends on passengers. Once a car fills up, it departs. There are plenty of cars waiting around. I counted maybe 30 on the day I travelled.
A Somaliland 4WD, being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.
The 410 km journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa takes about 17 hours.
Video: The road to the Djibouti/ Somaliland border post at Loyola.
The only comfortable part of the journey is the first 20km to the Djibouti/ Somaliland border, which is the only section of sealed road on the entire trip.
My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.
Tip:
Prior to your main bag (backpack) being strapped onto the roof of the 4WD, you should remove anything valuable or breakable, including all toiletries.
While on the roof, your bag will be crushed under the weight of boxes and other heavy items. Your bag will be walked on, stepped on, thrown around. It will be tied on so tightly that your bag will be contorted into a completely different shape.
When first loaded in Djibouti City, my Sojourn travel bag was placed on top of the load. At the border, it was repacked and moved to the bottom of the pile.
I only left clothes and shoes in my bag and was glad I did. My bag was completely pummeled during the journey.
I carried toiletries, and anything else which was breakable, in the cabin with me.
Video: Leaving from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City, the start of a 17-hour journey to Hargeisa, Somaliland.
Border Crossing
Upon arrival at the Djibouti border, which is in the coastal town of Loyada, I was told that I should carry all my valuables which were riding in the cabin with me. My main bag, which was secured on the roof, was to remain there.
My first view of Somaliland, at the border crossing.
It took me about 20 minutes to walk across the border, with immigration officials on both sides being friendly and relaxed. At no stage were any of my bags checked.
When I entered Somaliland, and as previously advised by the Somaliland Mission in Djibouti, immigration wanted to see my visa receipt.
After I had completed formalities, I asked immigration where I should wait for my 4WD, they simply pointed to the dusty road outside.
About 2 hours later, with the sun having set, I was still waiting on the side of the dusty road, with no sign of my 4WD, which had my main travel bag strapped to its roof – at least I hoped that was still the case.
After some time, I saw a crazy man running around yelling at different people – he looked familiar.
Yes – it was my driver. I was travelling with a crazy man!
Video: Night time driving through the desert of Somaliland. Most of the journey takes place at night!
I asked him about the 4WD (and my bag) and he assured me that we would leave at 9pm. We had arrived at the border shortly after 5 pm!
He then found a plastic chair and asked me to sit and wait, before he sauntered off!
At 9pm, he re-appeared and asked me to follow him. He took me to a different 4WD which was already loaded up.
I checked to confirm that my bag was onboard and saw that my beautiful Osprey Sojourn Travel Bag was tied onto the roof, crushed under the weight of a heavy sack with the roof porters walking all over the bags, tying on rope to secure the load.
Tip:
You should ensure that nothing valuable is left in anything placed onto the roof of the 4WD since you will be separated from your bag for about 4 hours during border formalities.
Travelling to Hargeisa
Video: The long and winding road to Hargeisa.
The moment we sped off from the border crossing, it was clear that my driver was truly a crazy man!
He was driving like a reckless kamikaze! Foot flat to the floor, he launched us out into the darkness of the desert.
There are many goats on the road in Somaliland.
For the next 12 hours, with music constantly blaring, we raced at break-neck speeds along poorly defined tracks, with lights that hardly lit up the track ahead.
On more than one occasion, realising he had taken the wrong track, he made abrupt about-turns and doubled back to take a different track.
Video: Early morning driving through Somaliland.
Unlike the locals behind me, who were often yelling at the driver to slow down, I had full confidence in my driver since he never stopped consuming khat (or qat), which is the local stimulant of choice in the Horn of Africa.
Video: No shortage of goats on the road in Somaliland.
Khat, which is said to cause excitement and euphoria, is the drug of choice for all the drivers. It keeps them awake and buzzing! At around 4am, I suggested to him that he should stop and take a break.
He looked at me, with his glazed eyes, and said he will sleep once he reached Hargeisa.
Onward he sped…
Video: Yet more goats on the road in Somaliland.
Arrival in Hargeisa
At around 10 am, we finally arrived in Hargeisa, pulling up outside the office of a transport company.
My Osprey travel bag joined me in the shower at my hotel. It survived to live another adventure.
I was happy to climb into a waiting taxi, which spirited me away to the safety and comfort of the Hotel Maamuus and a much-needed shower – for me and my dusty Osprey travel bag.
Ethiopia Border Crossing
The border crossing between Ethiopia and Somaliland is located in the town of Wajale which lies about 100 km due west of Hargeisa. The journey time from Hargeisa to the border is about 2 hours, on a good quality, sealed road.
Along the way, there are five checkpoints which are manned by officials whose only real task is to extract bribes from the drivers of public service vehicles such as taxis and minibuses.
I organised for a private taxi to drive me from Hargeisa to the border for the usual fare of US$30.
By the time we had arrived at the border, the driver had handed out more than half of the fare in the form of bribes to corrupt officials. Such a shame!
At the time of my visit to Wajale, the road across the border was being completely rebuilt. The entire area was a muddy quagmire with everything dug up but no construction work to be seen anywhere.
From the Ethiopian side, frequent minibuses (400 birr) connect to the city of Jijiga. From there, frequent minibuses connect to the popular tourist destination of Harar (also 400 Birr).
I departed from Hargeisa at around 9 am and arrived in Harar around 4 pm.
Getting Around
Public transportation in Somaliland consists of taxis (both shared and private) and minibuses.
Taxis
Taxis are the most common form of public transportation in Somaliland. They are typically small, older vehicles that are privately owned and operated.
Fares are negotiable and often shared among passengers. Taxis around Hargeisa should cost US$1-2.
Minibuses
Minibuses are small vans that are used for public transportation in Somaliland. They are often overcrowded and uncomfortable, but they can be a more affordable option for longer trips.
Rental Car
There are a few rental car companies in Hargeisa, although local traffic conditions and the many checkpoints make independent driving a potential nightmare. It would be best to hire a car with a driver.
If you are determined to drive in Somaliland, you can contact Royal Car Rental in Hargeisa.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Somaliland. If you wish to leave feedback, please use the comment form below.
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This is a Djibouti Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: March 2023
Introduction
Djibouti has been a country which has fascinated me for many years. I’d never met anyone who had travelled there and it was a complete mystery.
When I told friends and family that I was heading to Djibouti, they had no idea that such a country even existed! It is a tiny little country, tucked away in a remote corner of eastern Africa, yet it occupies a strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea.
The official languages of Djibouti are French and Arabic, with Somali and Afar also widely spoken.
The country has a predominantly Muslim population, with Islam being the official religion. Despite this, a sizable French expat population ensures that items such as pork and alcohol are available on restaurant menus.
Djibouti is strategically located at the entrance to the Red Sea.
Djibouti is so strategically located that several countries (France, the United States, and China) maintain military bases there.
The United States military maintains its only African base in Djibouti. This base, Camp Lemonnier, recently made news headlines when it was used for the airlifting of US diplomats out of Khartoum.
Exploring the quiet countryside of Djibouti requires either a rental car or a car with a driver.
Although not a cheap travel destination, quiet, unassuming, little Djibouti is a surprising travel destination – a country of very friendly, and welcoming, inhabitants who always made me feel welcome.
The main expenses will be accommodation and tours. With a lack of public transport in the countryside, you will need to either rent a car or hire a car with a driver to reach most sights.
A salt-encrusted animal skull, at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Due to its unique location at the meeting point of three tectonic plates, the country offers some astounding scenery in the form of Lake Assal and the surrounding volcanic field. This is a country whose geography is still a ‘work in progress’.
A highlight of Djibouti, Lake Assal is a two-hour drive west of Djibouti City.
Djibouti has a hot and arid climate, with temperatures often reaching up to 45°C during the day. I visited during the month of April which was ideal with temperatures around 30°C.
One of several fissure vent volcanoes which were created during the November, 1978 eruption in the area around the Ardoukoba volcano.
Djibouti is an interesting destination which can easily be covered in 7-10 days, although tours to remoter regions are pricey!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
Location
Djibouti is located in the Horn of Africa, on the eastern coast of the continent. It is bordered by Eritrea to the north, Ethiopia to the west and south, and Somalia to the southeast.
Due to its strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea, Djibouti is a major trans-shipment port.
Djibouti is situated at the entrance to the Red Sea and is strategically located at the crossroads of one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, making it a hub for international trade and commerce. It serves as a major trans-shipment port.
The country has a coastline of approximately 300 km and covers a total land area of 23,200 square kilometres (8,957 square miles), which makes it about the size of the US state of New Jersey.
Tectonic Location
This map shows Djibouti’s location at the tri-point of three tectonic plates. Source: Wikipedia
Just as important is Djibouti’s tectonic location, which has shaped, and continues to shape, the country in every way!
The country is situated near a tectonic triple junction where three tectonic plates meet – African, Arabian, and Somali.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the Gulf of Tadjoura has formed over millions of years, which affectively slices Djibouti into two halves.
A map of Djibouti showing the Gulf of Tadjoura which will cut further inland over time. Source: https://www.worldatlas.com/maps/djibouti
Just to the west of the Gulf, Lake Assal lies in a depression at -155 m (509 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point on the African continent and the third lowest point on earth.
Over the next millions of years, this rift movement will result in the earth’s surface sinking further with Lake Assal eventually becoming part of the sea bed for a much larger Gulf of Tadjoura.
A view of Ghoubbet Bay, and lava fields, near Lake Assal.
Fast forward tens of millions of years into the future and this rifting will eventually split Djibouti into two sections and could leave Ethiopia with a coast of its own.
People
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal, trying to sell me a chunk of Obsidian.
As of 2023, Djibouti has a population of about 1,035,000 people, with more than half (600,000) of the population residing in Djibouti City – the capital and only city of any real size.
The largest ethnic group in Djibouti is the Somali people, who make up about 60% of the population. The Afar people, who are mainly found in the northern part of the country, make up about 35% of the population.
Most of the people in Djibouti practice Islam, which is the official religion of the country. Arabic and French are the official languages, but Somali and Afar are also widely spoken.
Military Personnel
Due to its strategic location, Djibouti is home to a number of military bases. As of 2,021 – 4,000 U.S. Army troops, 1,350 French Army troops, 600 Japanese Army troops, 400 Chinese Army troops, and an unknown number of German Army troops were stationed at various bases throughout Djibouti.
Tour Companies
When I first arrived at Djibouti Airport from Addis Ababa, I was offered a ride into town to my hotel by some friendly locals who were collecting a friend from the same flight.
One of the passengers in the car, Ahmed, runs a tour company called Zo Voyages. He offered to arrange any tours for me while I was in Djibouti.
It was Ahmed who arranged for his friend, Akram Saleh (a freelance driver and guide), to take me to Lake Assal. This was a great day trip!
If you need the services of a tour company while in Djibouti, I can recommend Ahmed, who you can contact at the following:
The flag of Djibouti has two equal horizontal stripes – the top stripe is blueand the bottom stripe is green.
In the centre of the flag, there is a white isosceles triangle with its base along the hoist side. Inside the white triangle, there is a red, five-pointed, star.
The Djiboutian flag flying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
The bluestripe on the flag represents the sea, the greenstripe represents the land, and the white triangle represents peace. The redstar in the centre of the flag represents unity.
Djibouti flags for sale at a shop in Djibouti City.
The current design of the flag was adopted on June 27, 1977, when Djibouti gained its independence from France.
Currency
In the style of the former French franc, Djiboutian franc bank notes are especially large.
The Djiboutian franc (International Code: DJF) is the official currency of Djibouti. The currency, which is issued by the Central Bank of Djibouti, was introduced in 1949 to replace the French franc, which was used during the colonial era.
The Djiboutian franc is subdivided into 100 centimes. However, due to the low value of the currency, centimes are rarely used in practice, and most transactions are rounded to the nearest franc.
The highest denomination note, the DJF 10,000 bank note is worth US$56.20.
The banknotes in circulation in Djibouti come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs. The coins in circulation are in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 francs.
Exchange Rate
The franc is pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = 177.721 DJF
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
For visitor’s who remember the days of the old, over-sized, French franc bank notes, the large Djiboutian franc bank notes will bring back memories.
I could never get them to fit in my wallet and they are way too big for the draws of cash tills. Cashiers have to squash them into the till draws, so they are always creased, crushed and generally messy.
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
If you wish to acquire a note in pristine condition, you will need to ask at a local bank, where I always found the staff to be friendly and helpful.
Money Matters
In terms of hard currency, (i.e. USD cash), travelling in the Horn of Africa can be problematic. In countries such as Ethiopia and Eritrea, the purchase of hard currency is illegal, yet many payments (visa’s etc.) need to be made in USD cash.
If travelling to Eritrea, you will need to carry enough USD cash to cover all expenses since credit cards are not accepted anywhere.
If travelling in Ethiopia, you can affectively halve all costs by changing USD cash “unofficially”.
Officially in Ethiopia, USD$100 = 5,400 ETB while on the black market, USD$100 = 10,000 ETB (as of March 2023).
Unofficial transactions should never be conducted on the street, but in a safe, secure, indoor environment, such as a hotel lobby.
ATMs
Dual currency ATMs, which dispense both DJF and USD cash, can be found everywhere in Djibouti city.
The good news is that ATMs in Djibouti dispense both DJF and USD cash. Djibouti is a great place to replenish your reserves of USD cash!
All common credit cards are widely accepted at ATMs in Djibouti, including Mastercard, Visa and even American Express.
Hallelujah!
SIM Cards
Djibouti Telecom is the only telco in Djibouti.
Telephone and internet services in Djibouti are provided by the government owned, monopoly operator – Djibouti Telecom.
Generally, I found wi-fi speeds to be painfully slow in Djibouti, with an average speed of just 2Mbps!
Patience is required!
You can easily purchase a local SIM card from the Djibouti Telecom store which is located inside Bawadi Mall. You will need to bring your passport.
I purchased a tourist SIM card, for DJF 1,000 (US$5.62) which was valid for 3 days and offered 500 DJF call credits and 5 GB of data.
Travel Costs
Not cheap!
Which is not surprising, since most former French colonies are expensive! The biggest expense will be accommodation and any tours.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 120 (US$0.67)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 170 (US$0.96)
Glass of Beer: DJF 1,000 (US$5.62)
Cappuccino: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
Taxi within downtown Djibouti City: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
During my time in Djibouti, I explored Djibouti City and the sights around Lake Assal. I was also keen to visit Lake Abbe, but with a 2-day tour costing US$600, I decided to pass.
Djibouti City
“I Love Djibouti”, outside the Djibouti National Assembly (parliament).
Overlooking the Gulf of Tadjoura and the Red Sea, Djibouti City is the capital and largest city of Djibouti. Home to 600,000 souls, Djibouti is a small, relaxed, laid-back capital which is easily covered on foot.
Djibouti city is a melting pot of various ethnic groups, including Somali, Afar, Arab, and French, which creates a unique blend of cultures.
As of 2021, there were an estimated 34,005 refugees and asylum seekers in Djibouti, with the top countries of origin being neighbouring Somalia (14,132) and Ethiopia (12,742).
The locals are generally friendly and crime rates are low. I spent more than a week in the city and never felt threatened or unsafe. Walking around in the evening isn’t a problem. People generally are courteous and kind. They were happy to see a tourist!
A post box in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
Despite being the cultural, economic, and political centre of Djibouti, there are few sights of interest for tourists. Rather, the charm of Djibouti lies in its crumbling colonial-era buildings which line the streets of the European Quarter, a district which is pleasant to explore.
A typical colonial-era building in Djibouti’s European Quarter.
The focal point of the European Quarter is Place du 27 Juin 1977 (Place Ménélik). With its whitewashed houses and Moorish arcades, this vast square is a strange mix of the Arab and the European. It’s lined with cafés, bars, restaurants and shops.
The historic city centre of Djibouti was constructed during the French colonial period using madrépore, a relatively friable limestone. Most of the buildings were designed and built in the distinctive French colonial architecture style.
A colonial-era building in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
To the south of the European Quarter, the African Quarter is much messier and more chaotic. This is where many locals live in rudimentary housing.
Lake Assal
A view of Lake Assal, the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on Planet Earth.
Lake Assal is a saline lake located in the central-western part of Djibouti, about a 2-hour drive west from Djibouti City.
Due to ongoing ‘rifting’, Lake Assal will one day be inundated by the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura.
The lake is situated in the Danakil Desert and is one of the most unique and beautiful natural wonders of the country.
A view of Lake Assal, Djibouti.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura is slowly pushing further west and will one day inundate the area now occupied by Lake Assal.
A view of Lake Assal, a future sea bed in the making.
Essentially, Lake Assal is a future sea bed, currently being formed on land. One day, as the tectonic plates separate further, the lake will be inundated by the encroaching Gulf of Tadjoura.
Lake Assal is a 2-hour drive west of Djibouti City on good sealed roads.
The lake is approximately 155 metres (508 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on earth.
Any metallic surfaces simply rust in the corrosive air of lake Assal.
It is also considered one of the most saline bodies of water in the world, with a salt concentration of up to 10 times higher than that of the ocean.
A view of Lake Assal, a highlight of Djibouti.
The lake is surrounded by majestic and rugged landscapes, including volcanic formations and rocky hills.
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal wanted to sell me this Obsidian boulder for US$50! It was far too heavy to carry!
The shores of the lake are coated with a thick layer of white salt, creating a stunning contrast with the deep blue color of the water.
Bags of salt, and salt-encrusted animal skulls, for sale at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Overall, Lake Assal is a true natural wonder and a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Djibouti and definitely worth the US$200 tour cost.
A view of the Gulf of Tadjoura near Lake Assal.
Salt Mining
A Chinese-funded salt works, which is located on the shores of Ghoubbet Bay, near to Lake Assal.
With more than six million tonnes of salt being deposited in the area every year, and the thickness of Assal’s crust varying between 20 and 80 metres, this is a resource which mankind could not simply ignore.
Enter the Chinese (no surprise), who have established a salt processing plant on the shores of Gulf of Tadjoura. From here salt is exported directly to China.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, actually Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates are pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, which is called Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates (Africa, Arabia and Somalia) are slowly pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
This is an impressive sight and shows the full effect of ‘rifting’. The canyon is located on the right-hand side of highway RN9, as you drive towards Lake Assal.
My freelance driver/ guide – Akram Saleh – who is a competent driver and very knowledgeable guide, parked at the Grand Canyon car park.
Freelance Tour Guide
I toured Lake Assal with Akram Saleh, who is a very knowledgeable guide and a very good driver.
His fee for the day trip to Lake Assal was US$200.
If you wish to organise a tour, Akram can tailor any tour to suit your needs. You can contact him on Instagram at:
The area around Lake Assal is ‘ground zero’ for tectonic plate movements and a hotbed of geographical activity, with the landscape dominated by, the recently erupted, Ardoukoba volcano.
Basaltic lava fields, which were created during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano in 1978.
The Ardoukoba volcano is fed by rift magma which emanates from a volcanic fissure which is part of the Great Rift Valley fault system.
The road through the Ardoukoba volcanic lava field winds its way past recently erupted volcanoes and around basaltic lava flows.
As a result of the most recent eruption in November of 1978, basaltic lava flows cover the landscape. Also present are fumaroles, lava tunnels and deep fissures.
Straddling a tectonic divide with one foot on the Africa plate and one on the Arabian plate, one of many features in the vicinity of the Ardoukoba volcano.
It all makes for fascinating sightseeing!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
The Government of Djibouti has initiated a proposal with UNESCO to declare the Lake Assal zone including the Ardoukoba volcano and its surroundings as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Video:
My Guide, Akram Saleh, made a fumarole smoke by inserting his cigarette into the gaseous crevasse. A simple but effective chemistry lesson!
Eating Out
There’s no shortage of cafes, restaurants and bars in Djibouti City.
The cuisine of Djibouti is similar to the cuisine of neighbouring countries such as Ethiopia. The same staples, such as Injera, tibes etc. are served in Djibouti.
Due to the French influence and the presence of French expats, it’s also possible to enjoy some fine French cuisine while in Djibouti City.
Restaurants
Djibouti City is home to many local, budget restaurants and some fine dining options which are owned by French expats.
Some of my favourite dining options in downtown Djibouti City:
Menelik Hotel – Restaurant Tadiourah
Menu at Restaurant Tadiourah at the Menelik Hotel in Djibouti.
Located on the 1st floor of the Menelik hotel in downtown Djibouti City, the Restaurant Tadiourah is a reliable standby which serves both international and local cuisine.
I was in town during Ramadan, and was happy that this restaurant, which is hidden away inside the hotel, was always open and never stopped serving meals. It’s a favourite haunt for visiting Ethiopian businessmen.
Restaurant La Chaumière
Steak with Pepper Sauce – one of two delicious steak meals which I enjoyed at La Chaumière restaurant.
Located across the square from the Menelik hotel, and a short walk from Hotel Atlantic, RestaurantLa Chaumière is popular for its French and international cuisine, with a particular emphasis on seafood and steaks.
I ordered steak one evening and was so impressed, I returned on another occasion, just to try the steak with a different sauce.
Perfectly clean and inviting, the restaurant also offers a good selection of wines, beers and other drinks to accompany the fine meals.
Pizzaiolo Central
The excellent pizza Paysant at Pizzaiolo Central in Djibouti City.
The pizza served at Pizzaiolo Central in downtown Djibouti is surprisingly good. Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, the menu here features real ham (pork) and real bacon.
I recommend the pizza Paysant (Peasant’s pizza) which features bacon, egg and cheese – its breakfast on a pizza.
Pizzaiolo Central is located around the corner from everything else listed in this section.
Cafes
A superb mille-feuille served with an excellent café latte at Han’s Cake in Djibouti City.
Han’s Cake
There is just one café worth mentioning – the best in town – Han’s Cake, which is located opposite the Hotel Atlantic in downtown Djibouti City.
It is also located alongside all the restaurants listed in this section.
Open from 7 am to 10 pm, both the food and the cakes are divine. The coffee is the best in town.
Bars
Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, there are plenty of bars serving (always imported) alcohol.
Most restaurants also serve alcohol.
Accommodation
Atlantic Hotel
My residence during my stay in Djibouti City – the wonderful Atlantic Hotel.
During my stay in Djibouti City, I took up residence at the wonderfully comfortable Atlantic Hotel, which is located in the heart of the downtown area.
My room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
All of the dining options mentioned in the ‘Eating Out‘ section are located just a short stroll from this hotel.
A view of my room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
If you wish to stay in the heart of Djibouti city, the Atlantic hotel is a top choice.
Breakfast at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
Rooms, which cost around US$160 per night can be booked on Booking.com and include a buffet breakfast.
The hotel also offers rental cars.
Djibouti Palace Kempinski
The Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is the first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa.
The first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa, the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is a wonderful choice for those travelling on a business expense account or for those wishing to splurge.
The very quiet lobby of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
With plush rooms starting at US$300 per night, this is the best choice in Djibouti City and the finest hotel anywhere in the region.
A view of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
During my visit, the hotel seemed to be empty. I asked about occupancy and was told that it was low due to Ramadan.
The pool at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski is the most popular pool in town.
Even if you are not staying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski, it is worth spending DJF 4,500 (USD$25) for a day pass for the swimmingpool.
This is the best place in town to cool off, and, on the day of my visit, was popular with visiting French military personnel, who used their standard khaki-issued backpacks to carry their pool accessories.
Airbnb
Due to the number of expats living in Djibouti, there are many Djibouti apartments available for rent on Airbnb which can save you on the cost of accommodation and allow you to further reduce costs by self-catering.
If you are self-catering, the best places to shop for groceries are the Géant hypermarket, which is located inside Bawadi Mall (the only mall in town) or the Nougaprix supermarketwhich is located downtown.
Tip: When booking apartments on Airbnb, check the location. Some apartments are located well away from the centre, in the middle of quiet neighbourhood’s.
There’s no point staying somewhere which is far from the centre and requires expensive taxi rides whenever you wish to go anywhere.
Visa Requirements
Visas for Djibouti are very straight-forward.
All visitors to Djibouti must obtain either a visa on arrival to Djibouti, an electronic e-visa online or a visa from one of the Djiboutian diplomatic missions prior to arrival in Djibouti.
The one exception to this rule is Singaporean passport holders, who can enter Djibouti without a visa.
Tourist visas are valid for a stay of 30 days.
Djibouti Visa in Addis Ababa
My Djiboutian visa which was issued on the same day in Addis Ababa.
I applied for my Djibouti visa at the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa where a single-entry tourist visa cost me US$35, payable in USD cash, and required one passport photo.
Thirty day tourist visas are issued the same day, with applications accepted until 12 noon. The embassy then closes for lunch, then reopens at 1:30 pm at which time you can collect your passport. The staff are friendly and helpful.
My Djibouti visa receipt from the Djibouti embassy in Addis Ababa.
Letter of Invitation
I was not asked for a letter of invitation when I applied for my visa at the embassy – but – I was asked for my letter of invitation by immigration upon arrival at Djibouti airport.
Since I didn’t have a letter of invitation, I was asked to wait – along with most other foreigners from the flight. Eventually, a 2nd immigration officer stamped an entry stamp into my passport and welcomed me to Djibouti.
The contact details of the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa are:
Address
Bole Sub City, Kebele-03, House No. 003
Addis Ababa
Ethiopia
Phone
+251-116-613200
+251-116-613006
Fax
+251-116-612786
Getting There
Air
The easiest and most common way to get to Djibouti is by air.
Djibouti–Ambouli International Airport is the only airport in Djibouti. Located 6 kilometres (4 miles) south of downtown, the airport is currently undergoing a complete rebuild (March 2023). As such, everything is a mess and there are currently no shops, services or anything else available.
The airport also serves as a joint civilian/military-use airport. When my Ethiopian Airlines flight taxied to the terminal, we parked next to a group of uniformed soldiers who were unloading large assault rifles from various shipping containers and laying them out on the tarmac. Military stock-taking?
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Djibouti:
Air Djibouti – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Aden, Dire Dawa, Hargeisa, Mogadishu
Air France – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Dire Dawa
Kenya Airways – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
Saudia – flies to/from Jeddah
Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
Yemenia – flies to/from Aden
Airport Transport
Taxis are available outside the terminal.
I was fortunate to meet some friendly locals who offered to drive me to my downtown hotel – a wonderful introduction to the country. The Djiboutian’s are so friendly and kind!
Land
Djibouti shares borders with Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia, but travel overland can be challenging due to poor road conditions, security risks, and the need for permits and visas.
Currently the land border between Djibouti and Eritrea is closed while the borders between Djibouti and Ethiopia and Somalia (Somaliland) are open.
However, the newly constructed Addis Ababa-Djibouti railway line provides a convenient and safe way to travel between Ethiopia and Djibouti.
Somaliland
A Somaliland-registered 4WD being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.
4WD vehicles for Hargeisa (capital of Somaliland) depart each evening at around 5 pm from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City. The cost of a seat up front, next to the driver, is USD$40, while those behind cost US$30.
There is no fixed office for these Somaliland ‘taxis’, they simply park alongside the roadside on Avenue 26. Any taxi driver in Djibouti knows where to find them and you should arrange transportation the day before.
Somaliland 4WD’s on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.
There are many vehicles making this journey each evening, with all 4WD’s being 1990’s-era Toyota Land Cruisers. They are beat up, well past their expiry date and prone to breakdowns in the Somali dessert in the middle of the night. All part of the adventure!
The 562 km journey is entirely on unsealed roads (except for the first 20 km inside Djibouti) with a total journey time of 17 hours. This includes a 4-hour stop at the border.
Most of the journey is done during the night, when it is cooler in the desert.
The Somali drivers, who drive like there is no tomorrow, speed along the sandy/ gravel/ rutted tracks at truly dangerous speeds in the darkness of night. The locals in my car kept asking the driver to slow down. They were afraid for their lives!
This is a long, enduring, uncomfortable, and at times plain scary, journey!
More coverage on this in my Somaliland Travel Guide.
My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.
Tip:
Prior to your main bag (backpack) being strapped onto the roof of the 4WD, you should remove anything valuable or breakable, including all toiletries. Your bag will be crushed under the weight of boxes and other heavy items.
Also at the border, you will be separated from anything on the roof of your vehicle for about 4 hours.
Getting Around
Public transport in Djibouti consists mainly of minibuses that are privately owned, with no known schedule.
Taxis are also numerous and inexpensive with most rides around Djibouti City costing between DJF 500 – 1,000 (USD$2,80 – $5.60).
Taxi
Taxis in Djibouti tend to look like beat up dodgem cars. A taxi fare around Djibouti city should cost DJF 500, with longer journeys costing up to DJF 1,000.
Rental Car
Djibouti car license plates display numbers and numerals in Latin and Arabic characters.
The Atlantic Hotel offers rental cars starting a USD$50 per day.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Djibouti. If you wish to comment, please feel free to leave a message below.
Source: Wikipedia
!["I Love Djibouti", outside the National Assembly Building (parliament) in Djibouti City.](https://www.taste2travel.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DJ_IMG_24-scaled.jpg ""I Love Djibouti", outside the National Assembly Building (parliament) in Djibouti City.")
