Author - Darren McLean

Travel Quiz 55: World Flags

Flags Quiz Feature Image

World Flags Quiz

This is a World Flags quiz from taste2travel!

 

How well do you know your World flags?

Test your knowledge with this World Flags quiz!

 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

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Good luck!

 

01. This is the flag of which country?

Mauritania Flag
Correct! Wrong!

If you like crescent moon flags, be sure to do my "Crescent Moon Flags Quiz".

02. This is the current flag of the only former Swedish Caribbean colony, which is?

The unofficial flag of St. Barts.
Correct! Wrong!

03. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Bhutan features a dragon clutching four jewels in its claws.
Correct! Wrong!

04. This is the flag of which country?

Tonga Flag
Correct! Wrong!

05. The flag of which country is the only one which is not rectangular in shape?

Correct! Wrong!

The triangular design of Nepal's Flag represents mountains. The triangles also represent the two main religions in Nepal - Hinduism and Buddhism.

06. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Correct! Wrong!

Green, yellow, and red are now found on the national flags of many African nations. The colour combination was borrowed from the flag of Ethiopia, the one African country which wasn't colonised.

07. This is the flag of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

Like other flags in the region, the Kuwait flag features the pan-Arab colors of black, white, green and red. Individually, each of the four Pan-Arab colors were intended to represent a certain aspect of the Arabs and their history.

08. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Lithuania
Correct! Wrong!

09. The flag of which country is double-sided so that the sword and the Shahada (pray) face the correct direction from either side?

The flag of Saudi Arabia is always double-sided so that the 'shahada' reads correctly, from right to left, from either side.
Correct! Wrong!

The inscription on the Saudi flag is the Islamic creed, or shahada: "There is no God but Allah; Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah".

10. The flag of which country is the only one that doesn't feature red, white or blue?

Correct! Wrong!

11. This is the flag of which country?

Chile Flag
Correct! Wrong!

12. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Iceland.
Correct! Wrong!

The combination of the traditional Icelandic colours, blue and white, with red reflects historical links with Norway. The use of the cross symbolises Iceland's close ties with the rest of the Nordic countries.

13. This beautiful cake is decorated with the flag of which country?

Bahrain Flag cake. Source: Naseef Cafe.
Correct! Wrong!

The Naseef café in Bahrain is the best place to sample a typical Bahraini breakfast. They also produce amazing cakes!

14. Which is the only flag in the world to feature a purple parrot?

Dominica Flag
Correct! Wrong!

The Sisserou parrot, which is native to Dominica, is renown for its striking purple feathers. The colour purple has long been associated with riches and royalty and was rarely used due to the high cost of purple pigment. Only in the 20th century did purple become widely accessible. Today, purple is still hardly seen on flags, although it does feature on the flags of Nicaragua and Dominica.

15. What's the name given to the study of flags?

Flags Quiz Feature Image
Correct! Wrong!

A person who studies flags is a vexillologist, one who designs flags is a vexillographer, and the art of designing flags is called vexillography. One who is a hobbyist or general admirer of flags is a vexillophile.

16. This flag belongs to a sovereign state which is recognised by the UN, maintains diplomatic relations with 107 countries, issues its own passports, stamps and currency - BUT - has no territory! Which is it?

The state flag of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.
Correct! Wrong!

You can learn all about the fascinating Sovereign Military Order of Malta in my SMOM Travel Guide: https://www.taste2travel.com/sovereign-military-order-of-malta-travel-guide/

17. This is the flag of which country?

Seychelles Flag
Correct! Wrong!

18. The flag of which country features a stylised representation of a "tunduk", the circular crown of a traditional yurt.

Correct! Wrong!

The Tunduk is a national symbol of Kyrgyzstan. It functions as a rooftop crown in traditional Kyrgyz yurts. According to the Kyrgyz, it provides a link between the earthly world and the spirit world.

19. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Papua New Guinea Flag.
Correct! Wrong!

20. This is the flag of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 55: World Flags
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Travel Quiz 54: World Currencies

Currency Image

World Currencies Quiz

This is a World Currencies Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know your World currencies? 

Test your knowledge with this currencies quiz from taste2travel.

 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Don’t forget to share your results with friends using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.


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There are many more travel quizzes on taste2travel, covering specific continents and subjects such as currencies, flags, maps, capital cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, museums and much more.

You can access all the quizzes here.


Good luck!

 

01. This is the currency of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

02. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting San Marino?

Correct! Wrong!

03. Featuring Che Guevara, the Cuban peso (CUP) is one of how many official currencies in circulation in Cuba?

Che Guevara adorns this 3 peso bank note, which I purchased from a currency dealer on Plaza de Armas in Havana old town.
Correct! Wrong!

Until 1st January 2021, Cuba had two currencies - the CUP (Cuban peso) and the CUC (Cuban Convertible peso) which was previously used by tourists and by Cubans who wished to purchase imported products. Since 1st of January 2021, the only Cuban currency in circulation is the Cuban peso (CUP).

04. Which two countries have adopted the United States dollar as their official currency?

US Dollar
Correct! Wrong!

05. The Pacific franc is the official currency of how many French territories?

The Pacific Franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Fortuna.
Correct! Wrong!

The Pacific franc is the official currency of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Futuna.

06. Which is the official currency of the United Arab Emirates?

Correct! Wrong!

07. How many countries use the Euro?

Euro Currency
Correct! Wrong!

The latest country to join the euro club is Croatia, who adopted the euro on the 1st of January, 2023.

08. In which country would you be spending reais (or reals)?

An icon of Rio de Janeiro, the 'Christ the Redeemer' statue soars 30 metres (98 ft) above the 700-metre (2,300 ft) high Corcovado mountain.
Correct! Wrong!

09. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting Socotra?

Dragon's blood trees at Homhil.
Correct! Wrong!

10. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping for Bermuda shorts on Bermuda?

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at 'Tabs' in Hamilton
Correct! Wrong!

11. Which is the official currency of Uzbekistan?

My wad of 5,000 som notes, which were handed to me at the bank after I changed USD$100.
Correct! Wrong!

12. Which is the official currency of Indonesia?

Correct! Wrong!

13. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping in Copenhagen?

Correct! Wrong!

14. Which is the official currency of Bhutan?

The 5-ngultrum banknote, which features two Bja Tshering, a mythical bird that brings about long life.
Correct! Wrong!

15. Which is the official currency of Cocos (Keeling) Islands?

Sandy Point beach, the finest beach on Home Island.
Correct! Wrong!

16. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping in Manila, Philippines?

Correct! Wrong!

17. Which president is featured on the front of the United States $2 bank note?

Correct! Wrong!

18. Which is the official currency of Greenland?

The picturesque Zion's church, overlooks Disko Bay in Ilulissat.
Correct! Wrong!

19. If you are travelling to Vietnam, which currency will you need?

Currency Vietnam Dong
Correct! Wrong!

20. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting Baku, Azerbaijan?

Heydar Aliyev Centre Baku
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 54: World Currencies
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Travel Quiz 53: Africa Travel Quiz

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

Africa Travel Quiz

This is an Africa Travel quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know Africa?

 

Test your knowledge with this Africa Travel quiz from taste2travel. 

 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Don’t forget to share this quiz with friends using the social media buttons located at the top of the quiz.


Did you know?

There are many more travel quizzes on taste2travel, covering specific continents and subjects such as currencies, flags, maps, capital cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, museums and much more.

You can access all the quizzes here.


Good luck!

 

01. The African island of Mayotte is home to many Common brown lemur's. The Island is a territory of which country?

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.
Correct! Wrong!

02. Africa is comprised of how many sovereign nations?

Correct! Wrong!

03. Populated by the Dogon people, the Dogon Country is a region of which African nation?

Correct! Wrong!

04. The Masai Mara National Reserve is located in which African country?

Correct! Wrong!

05. This is the flag of which African nation?

The flag of the Seychelles.
Correct! Wrong!

06. Which country is highlighted on the map?

Correct! Wrong!

07. In which country would you be if you were visiting the African island of Socotra?

With its large granite boulders, the beach at Detwah Lagoon reminded me of beaches in the Seychelles.
Correct! Wrong!

08. The African archipelago nation of Cape Verde is famous for its pristine beaches. Which is the capital of Cape Verde?

A long, rough gravel road leads to the Santa Monica beach which exists in splendid isolation.
Correct! Wrong!

09. Which is the capital of Côte d'Ivoire (Ivory Coast)?

Correct! Wrong!

10. This is the flag of which African nation?

Correct! Wrong!

11. The 'Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark' is a highlight of which African nation?

One of the highlights of Mauritius - 'Seven Coloured Earth' in Charmarel.
Correct! Wrong!

12. Which country is highlighted on the map?

Correct! Wrong!

13. The Ngorongoro Crater, a large volcanic caldera, is a National Park located in which country?

Correct! Wrong!

14. There are approximately how many Mountain gorilla's remaining in the wild?

Correct! Wrong!

15. This is the flag of which African nation?

Correct! Wrong!

16. Elmina Castle, which was erected by the Portuguese in 1482, is located in which African country?

Correct! Wrong!

17. In which country would you be if you were viewing wildlife in the Yankari Game Reserve?

Correct! Wrong!

18. Which is the capital of the French territory of Réunion Island?

The striking Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) in St. Denis.
Correct! Wrong!

19. Which country is highlighted on the map?

Correct! Wrong!

20. The flag of which African nation features an AK-47?

Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 53: Africa Travel Quiz
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Bhutan Photo Gallery

Located at the confluence of two rivers, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.

Bhutan Photo Gallery

This is an Bhutan Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Bhutan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 215 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Bhutan Travel Guide

The iconic Tiger's Nest Monastery is the most popular tourist sight in Bhutan.

Bhutan Travel Guide

This is a Bhutan Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: October 2022

Introduction

The magical and mythical Kingdom of Bhutan is no ordinary destination. Known by the Bhutanese as Druk Yul, meaning “Land of the Thunder Dragon“, Bhutan is a modern-day Shangri-La.

A view of Thimphu valley from the hiking trail to Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.

A view of Thimphu valley from the hiking trail to Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.

The Last Shangri-La?

When English author James Hilton wrote Lost Horizon in 1933, he portrayed a fictional kingdom, Shangri-La, as a mystical, harmonious valley, gently guided from a lamasery, enclosed in the western end of the Kunlun Mountains.

Overlooking Thimphu, the 51.5 metres (169 ft) high Buddha Dordenma statue is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.

Overlooking Thimphu, the 51.5 metres (169 ft) high Buddha Dordenma statue is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.

Shangri-La has become synonymous with any earthly paradise, particularly a mythical Himalayan utopia – an enduringly happy land, isolated from the world, a description which wholly fits the Kingdom of Bhutan.

Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Tourism Policy

Long closed to the outside world, the Kingdom of Bhutan only started to open its borders in the 1970’s, with the first tourists arriving in 1974.

Bhutan is known as "Druk Yul", meaning "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

Bhutan is known as “Druk Yul”, meaning “Land of the Thunder Dragon”.

Though open to foreigners, the Bhutanese government is acutely aware of the environmental impact tourists can have on Bhutan’s unique and virtually unspoiled landscape and culture.

Built as a memorial, the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass are a spectacular sight.

Built as a memorial, the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass are a spectacular sight.

Accordingly, the government has restricted the level of tourist activity under a policy known as “high value, low impact”.

Buddhist artwork, in a gift shop in Paro.

Buddhist artwork, in a gift shop in Paro.

As part of this policy, tourists can only travel to Bhutan on a fully-escorted tour, which is organised through a local Bhutanese tour company. It is through the tour company that flights and visas will be arranged.

Houses in Bhutan are wonderfully decorative and often feature ejaculating phalluses.

Houses in Bhutan are wonderfully decorative and often feature ejaculating phalluses.

Independent travel is possible for citizens of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries – India, Maldives and Bangladesh, although they are required to apply for a permit in advance.

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery in Punakha features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery in Punakha features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).

As part of their high value, low impact policy, the government restricts tourist numbers by charging a mandatory Sustainable Development Fee, a tourist tax, charged at a, post-pandemic, rate of US$200 per person/ per night.

Temple embroidery for sale in the gift shop at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

Temple embroidery for sale in the gift shop at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

On a typical 7D/6N itinerary, this equates to a tax of US$1,200 per person!

Punakha Dzong (fortress) is a highlight of Bhutan.

Punakha Dzong (fortress) is a highlight of Bhutan.

In addition to paying this tax, visitors are required to pay for a tour, airfare and a visa. My one week, all inclusive, trip cost around US$3,600 which included return flights from Singapore.

Prayer flags flutter on Punakha suspension bridge - the longest such bridge in Bhutan.

Prayer flags flutter on Punakha suspension bridge – the longest such bridge in Bhutan.

I travelled with the Dana Bhutan travel company, which I would highly recommend! More details regarding tour costs and Dana Bhutan are included in the ‘Tour Companies‘ section below.

Charming Bhutan

A monk playing football at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

A monk playing football at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

Bhutan is a charming mix of the old and modern! While almost everyone wears traditional dress, which has remained unchanged since the 17th century, their outfits contain a large pocket which is handy for carrying their smartphones.

The entrance to the temple at Punakha Dzong.

The entrance to the temple at Punakha Dzong.

Despite their isolation, the Bhutanese are modern, educated and fully informed about the outside world, with many having studied abroad on government grants. Despite a ban on television and internet only being lifted in 1999, the Bhutanese today are online and tech savvy.

The Bhutanese are always polite, courteous and very welcoming to visitors, going out of their way to provide the best of service.

The beautiful Nepalese-style Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

The beautiful Nepalese-style Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

This Himalayan Kingdom offers a pristine environment complete with stunning landscapes of snow-capped peaks, picturesque valleys, majestic, medieval-era fortresses and monasteries, all of which are connected by a network of winding, mountain roads and lots of hiking trails.

Rice paddies in the Punakha Valley.

Rice paddies in the Punakha Valley.

Despite the costs, Bhutan is a once-in-a-lifetime travel destination, a fascinating Himalayan Kingdom which should be experienced by anyone in search of Shangri-La.

Highly recommended!

Prayer wheel in Punakha Valley.

Prayer wheel in Punakha Valley.

Location

Thimphu, Bhutan

Bhutan is a country of south-central Asia, located on the eastern ridges of the Himalayas.

This remote kingdom is located in a geographically strategic position, sandwiched between the Assam-Bengal Plain of India to the south and the Plateau of Tibet of southwestern China to the north.

Due to the towering Himalayas forming an impenetrable barrier along the Bhutan-China border, there are no road connections with China and the border remains closed. There have been territorial disputes in the past which have all been initiated by China! China currently has territorial disputes with both Bhutan and India.

Located on the Bhutan - Tibet border, Jomolhari, as seen from Paro Valley, is Bhutan's second highest mountain with an elevation of 7,326 m / 24,035 ft.

Located on the Bhutan – Tibet border, Jomolhari, as seen from Paro Valley, is Bhutan’s second highest mountain with an elevation of 7,326 m / 24,035 ft.

There are limited road connections with India, which is the major trading partner for Bhutan. Bhutan enjoys a close relationship with India.

The main urbans centres are Thimphu (pop: 114,000) and Paro (pop: 11,400), both of which are located in narrow valleys in the Lesser Himalayan region.

Physically, Bhutan may be divided into three regions from north to south: the Great Himalayas, the Lesser Himalayas, and the Duars Plain.

People

A group of school children from a special needs school at the National Museum of Bhutan.

A group of school children from a special needs school at the National Museum of Bhutan.

With a total population of 780,000 (2021), Bhutan is home to three major ethnic groups: the Bhutia, the Nepalese, and the Sharchop.

The Bhutia are the largest ethnic group and make up about half of the population. They are the descendants of Tibetan immigrants who came southward into Bhutan beginning about the 9th century. The Bhutia are dominant in northern, central, and western Bhutan.

They speak a variety of Tibeto-Burman languages, and the most common of these, Dzongkha, is Bhutan’s official language; the written language is identical with Tibetan. The Bhutia dominate Bhutan’s political life.

Young girl in the Paro Valley.

Young girl in the Paro Valley.

The Nepalese, who constitute about 1/3 of Bhutan’s population, are recent arrivals. The growing number of Nepalese prompted the government to ban further immigration from Nepal beginning in 1959 and to prohibit Nepalese settlement in central Bhutan.

The minority Sharchop, occupy eastern Bhutan and are related to the hill tribes from the neighbouring Indian states of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh.

Traditional Dress

One of the most surprising sights in Bhutan is that almost everyone wears traditional dress. While the Bhutanese always look smart and formal, foreigners are always down-dressed by comparison, wearing their casual travelling attire.

Men

Two school boys in Paro wearing their traditional dress school uniforms.

Two school boys in Paro wearing their traditional dress school uniforms.

The men wear the very smart and formal looking gho, which was introduced in the 17th century to give the Bhutanese a more distinctive identity.

The gho is a knee-length robe tied at the waist by a cloth belt known as the kera. This is complimented by knee-length, black socks and formal black, leather shoes.

Always impeccably dressed, my guide Jamyang (right) with two fellow guides at the Buddha Dordenma temple.

Always impeccably dressed, my guide Jamyang (right) with two fellow guides at the Buddha Dordenma temple.

Under the gho, men wear a tego, a white jacket with long, folded-back cuffs. On festive occasions, the gho is worn with a kabney – a scarf, which is draped over the shoulder

Women

Two women at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, wearing traditional dress.

Two women at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, wearing traditional dress.

Bhutanese women can normally be seen wearing the traditional kira, an ankle-length dress consisting of a rectangular piece of woven fabric.

A worshiper at the Dordenma Buddha temple complex.

A worshiper at the Dordenma Buddha temple complex.

It is wrapped and folded around the body and is pinned at both shoulders, usually with silver brooches and bound at the waist with a long belt.

Two women at the Buddha Dordenma temple wearing traditional dress.

Two women at the Buddha Dordenma temple wearing traditional dress.

The kira is usually worn with a wonju, a long-sleeved blouse.

Imported from India, these rolls of fabric are used for making Bhutanese traditional clothing.

Imported from India, these rolls of fabric are used for making Bhutanese traditional clothing.

The material for all traditional clothing is imported from India and can be purchased, by the metre, in shops in Paro and Thimphu.

Gross National Happiness Index

A diagram illustrating the nine domains of the GNH Index, which are further supported by 33 indicators.

A diagram illustrating the nine domains of the GNH Index, which are further supported by 33 indicators.
Image Source: https://www.researchgate.net/

Uniquely Bhutanese, the Gross National Happiness Index is a measure of well-being which should serve as an inspiration for other countries!

The Gross National Happiness Index (GNH) is a holistic approach to measure the happiness and wellbeing of the Bhutanese population.

The index, which consists of nine domains and thirty-three indicators was developed by the Bhutanese government who consider the traditional GDP indicator (used by every other country) to be fundamentally flawed.

As per the Bhutanese government, narrow framings of development founded on GDP growth have led to multiple ecological, social and political-economic crises across the world that threaten the survival of humans and socio-ecologies.

Under the GDP system, a country’s success has been based upon its economic success which is usually derived from over-consumption, deep inequality and resource depletion. This has led to a call for ‘de-growth’.

The GNH provides a working, and successful, example of an alternative living measure that challenges GDP metrics. The index places happiness at the centre of human development – not economic gain!

In addition to analysing the happiness and wellbeing of the people, it also guides government development policy.

Having spent a week travelling and meeting the Bhutanese, I can attest that they seem to be genuinely happy.

A Country Without Killing

There are no slaughter houses in Bhutan – life, and nature, are fully protected under the laws of Bhutan! 

As a society which was founded on Buddhist beliefs, the killing of anything is strictly forbidden under Bhutanese law. Cows, pigs, and sheep are never killed, while hunting and fishing is strictly forbidden.

The government does not allow killing of animals for consumption. In fact, you can get arrested and fined if you slaughter an animal.

Being Buddhists, the Bhutanese are largely vegetarian, with the average yearly meat consumption being just 2.5 kg per person (versus 120 kg per person/ per year in the United States). The little meat that is consumed is imported from India.

With all life protected under Bhutanese law, every creature enjoys a happy existence, including the many, ever-present, street dogs!

Environmental Policy

Bhutan boats 75% forest cover and a pristine, litter-free, environment.

Bhutan boats 75% forest cover and a pristine, litter-free, environment.

In order to protect its pristine environment, the government of Bhutan has enacted many strict environmental laws.

One such law bans the felling of trees! If trees are needed for construction, an application is required to be made to the government, who will authorise certain trees for felling.

Golden rice paddies in Paro Valley.

Golden rice paddies in Paro Valley.

Bhutan boasts more than 75% forest cover and has an active tree replanting program.

The country currently holds the Guinness World Record for the largest number of trees planted, with 100 volunteers planting 49,672 trees in one hour on the slopes above Thimphu.

Mining permits are extremely difficult to obtain and any polluting industry is banned! During my travels in Bhutan, I did not see one chimney stack or any real factories.

Strict environmental policies and other government regulations ensures Bhutan remains a clean, safe and pristine environment.

Strict environmental policies and other government regulations ensures Bhutan remains a clean, safe and pristine environment.

Electricity is generated using hydro power and is a major export earner for Bhutan, with electricity exports to India accounting for 63.3% (2020) of total export earnings.

The numerous environmental policies ensures that Bhutan remains a pristine environment!

Flag

The flag of Bhutan features a dragon clutching four jewels in its claws.

The flag of Bhutan features a dragon clutching four jewels in its claws.

The iconic and striking flag of Bhutan is divided diagonally from the lower hoist-side corner, with the upper triangle yellow and the lower triangle orange.

Running along the horizontal divide is a Chinese dragon which alludes to the Dzongkha name of Bhutan – Druk Yul (“Dragon Kingdom”). The dragon is holding a norbu, or jewel, in each of its claws.

The flag of Bhutan features on the livery of the national airline, Druk Air.

The flag of Bhutan features on the livery of the national airline, Druk Air.

The yellow half signifies civil tradition and authority as embodied in the Druk Gyalpo, the Dragon King of Bhutan, whose royal robes traditionally includes a yellow scarf.

The orange half signifies Buddhist spiritual tradition, while the white of the dragon signifies the purity of inner thoughts and deeds that unite all the ethnically and linguistically diverse peoples of Bhutan.

The jewels held in Druk’s claws represent Bhutan’s wealth and the security and protection of its people.

Currency

The official currency of Bhutan is the ngultrum.

The official currency of Bhutan is the ngultrum.

The ngultrum (currency code: BTN) is the official currency of the Kingdom of Bhutan. It can be literally translated as ‘silver’ for ngul and ‘money’ for trum.

A 20-Ngultrum banknote which features Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the 3rd king of Bhutan.

A 20-Ngultrum banknote which features Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the 3rd king of Bhutan.

Ngultrum banknotes, which are produced by the Royal Monetary Authority of Bhutan, are issued in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000.

The 5-ngultrum banknote, which features two Bja Tshering, a mythical bird that brings about long life.

The 5-ngultrum banknote, which features two Bja Tshering, a mythical bird that brings about long life.

Exchange Rates (click for current rates):

The ngultrum is currently pegged to the Indian rupee at parity.

Banking Services

A branch of the Bhutan National Bank at the GPO in Thimphu.

A branch of the Bhutan National Bank at the GPO in Thimphu.

Cash can be withdrawn at ATMs in Paro (including at the airport) and in Thimphu.

Money can be exchanged at any bank branch.

The 20-ngultrum banknote features Punakha Dzong.

The 20-ngultrum banknote features Punakha Dzong.

Costs

All travel costs are included in your tour.

The only additional expenses will be any incidentals such as shopping, cafes outings and alcohol.

Shopping

Paro offers the best souvenir shopping in Bhutan.

Paro offers the best souvenir shopping in Bhutan.

Bhutan is home to many traditional cottage industries which produce high quality products. The best shopping is in Paro where the short main street is dominated by souvenir shops.

A shop on the main street of Paro. The shopfront is decorated with strands of red chillies.

A shop on the main street of Paro. The shopfront is decorated with strands of red chillies.

Popular items include hand-woven textiles, hand-made wooden products, artworks, sculptures, hand-made home décor items, colourful wooden masks, Buddhist paintings and much more.

Philately

The main GPO in Thimphu serves as the headquarters of Bhutan Post Office.

The main GPO in Thimphu serves as the headquarters of Bhutan Post Office.

The first postage stamps of Bhutan were issued in 1962 by the Bhutan Post Office. This coincided with the opening of the first motorable road. Before that there was a mail delivery system in place for official mail using mail runners.

The stamps of Bhutan are highly collectable.

The stamps of Bhutan are highly collectable.

A replica of the most famous mail runner, Jaga Tarshi, can be seen in the Postal Museum which is adjacent to the GPO in Thimphu.

The glorious food of Bhutan is just one of many themes which have been featured on stamps.

The glorious food of Bhutan is just one of many themes which have been featured on stamps.

Also known as “Flagpole”, Jaga Tarshi was a giant of a man at 218 cm (7 Feet 2 inches) and was famous for the fact that he could cover a distance of over 200 km in a single day, wearing just a pair of cowhide sandals.

The stamps of Bhutan feature the flora and fauna of Bhutan.

The stamps of Bhutan feature the flora and fauna of Bhutan.

Innovative Stamps

Although Bhutan came late to the philatelic world, it has blazed a trail with many innovative stamp issues – many of which have been world firsts.

In 1973, Bhutan Post Office issued a set of vinyl record stamps - a world first.

In 1973, Bhutan Post Office issued a set of vinyl record stamps – a world first.

  • In 1966, the first ‘world’s first‘ stamps issued by Bhutan Post office were a set of round gold foil stamps. These were issued as a limited release to gauge market reaction. The issue was over-subscribed which led to more innovative stamps being produced.
  • In 1967, Bhutan issued the world’s first 3D stamps which celebrated the Apollo-11 space mission.
  • In 1969, a set of steel stamps were printed on razor-thin 0.001-inch steel foil, a world first.
  • Also in 1969, a set of silk stamps was issued by Bhutan Post.
  • In 1971, Bhutan issued the world’s first plastic stamps which celebrated the history of sculpture. During the production process, the stamps were pressed inside a heated pressure mould which created a bas-relief effect.
  • In 1973, Bhutan issued the world’s first phonogram record stamps – circular vinyl stamps which could be played on a standard record player. The stamps play the Royal Bhutan Anthem, folk-songs and a short history of Bhutan.
  • In 1994, Hologram stamps were issued which celebrated ‘man in space’.
  • In 2008, two CD-ROM stamps were issued which could be played in a CD player and featured a promotional video of Bhutan. Following the success of the first issue, two additional CD-ROM stamps were issued in 2009.
  • The latest innovative stamp issue was released on the 20th of September 2022 and features a set of NFT/ Crypto stamps.
In 2008, Bhutan Post Office released this world-first CD-ROM stamp.

In 2008, Bhutan Post Office released this world-first CD-ROM stamp.

All of these stamps can be seen in the excellent Postal Museum.

The current stamp issues of Bhutan can be purchased from the Bhutan Post Office online stamp shop of from the philately shop at Thimphu GPO.

To commemorate the 60th birth anniversary of the fourth King, Bhutan Post printed this stamp using silver and gold foil.

To commemorate the 60th birth anniversary of the fourth King, Bhutan Post printed this stamp using silver and gold foil.

Bhutan Postal Museum

An entire wall of the Bhutan Postal Museum is decorated with stamps.

An entire wall of the Bhutan Postal Museum is decorated with stamps.

Adjacent to the philatelic department at Thimphu Post Office, the excellent Bhutan Postal Museum outlines the history of postal services in the kingdom, along with displays of the various, unique, stamp issues.

Far from being full of stuffy displays of stamps, the museum includes exhibitions which tells the story of early postal delivery, which was performed by large, athletic men who hiked across the mountainous terrain to deliver the post.

All of the innovative stamp issues mentioned above are on display in the museum. A highlight for me was an entire wall which has been covered in Bhutanese stamps – truly impressive.

Tour Companies

“Happiness is a way of travel – not a destination.” – Quote from Deki Tshering, owner of Dana Bhutan travel company. 

Foreign visitors can only visit Bhutan as part of a package tour. The only exceptions are for passport holders from the SAARC countries – i.e. India, Bangladesh and Maldives.

The Bhutanese government requires all tourists to book their travel through one of 330+ officially approved tour operators.

By law, all are required to charge you the identical daily rate, inclusive of car, driver, translator/guide, hotel, and food. The only costs not covered are incidentals such as souvenirs, tips, alcohol and airfare.

There are four costs associated with a trip to Bhutan – the return airfare, tour fee, visa fee and the government ‘Sustainable Development Fee‘ (SDF), which is simply a tourist tax which is charged at a rate of US$200 per night, per person. Prior to Covid-19, the government charged a tax of US$65 per night!

Dana Bhutan Tour Company 

A few years ago, while attending ITB Asia, the largest trade travel show in Asia, which is held each October in Singapore, I was fortunate to meet the wonderfully energetic and enthusiastic Deki Tshering, who is the owner of Dana Bhutan travel company.

Deki was working on the Bhutan Tourism stand and convinced me that I needed to visit Bhutan – although I needed no convincing!

Deki and I at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

Deki and I at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

I knew from the moment we met that I would only travel to Bhutan using her tour company. I was planning a trip to Bhutan in 2020 which of course was cancelled due to Covid-19.

I kept in contact with Deki during Bhutan’s long lockdown period, until she eventually informed me that Bhutan would finally reopen to tourism in September of 2022. I booked my trip to arrive in Bhutan the following month, ahead of the expected surge of tourist arrivals.

I was greeted at Paro airport by Deki and my friendly, and always impeccably dressed, guide (Jamyang) and driver (Thukten).

Deki organised a picnic lunch for me in Paro which included delicious Bhutanese vegetarian dishes which she personally cooked. An amazing lunch!

Deki (2nd left) organised a picnic lunch for me in Paro which included delicious Bhutanese vegetarian dishes which she personally cooked. An amazing lunch!

I spent one amazing week touring Bhutan with Jamyang and Thukten and was even treated to a picnic lunch in Paro by Deki.

For the picnic, Deki, who is known for her cooking skills, prepared a selection of her favourite Bhutanese dishes, all of which were vegetarian and all very tasty.

The tasty selection of dishes served by Deki at our picnic lunch.

The tasty selection of dishes served by Deki at our picnic lunch.

Hospitality and service in Bhutan is on another level and should be experienced by everyone at some stage in life.

The Bhutanese are incredibly friendly, polite and welcoming. Rarely did I carry my (heavy) camera bag as my driver and guide insisted on carrying it for me, including on uphill hikes! Incredible!

My amazing driver (left) and guide (right) - Thukten and Jamyang respectively.

My amazing driver (left) and guide (right) – Thukten and Jamyang respectively.

I would highly recommend using the services of Dana Bhutan travel company for your trip to Bhutan. 

Contact Details: 

Tour Cost

The cost of my one-week, fully inclusive, trip to Bhutan was US$3,468 which was comprised of the following components:

  • Government tourist tax (aka ‘Sustainability Development Fee‘) @ US$200 x 6 nights = US$1,200
  • Cost of return airfare from Singapore to Paro with Druk Air = US$1,198
  • Cost of one-week tour with Dana Bhutan = US$1,030
  • Visa fee = US$40

All costs need to be paid to the Bhutanese tour company in advance via bank transfer. Credit cards are rarely used in Bhutan!

Sightseeing

My trip included drives from Paro to Thimphu to the Punakha Valley and back.

The trip from Thimphu to Punakha is spectacular; 27 km as the crow flies but 85 km (and 2.5 hours) by road over the 3,100 metre (10,170 ft) Dochula Pass.

Rarely in Bhutan did we exceed the maximum speed limit which is set at 50 km/h. Most roads are narrow and winding, climbing up and down towering mountain ranges.

Thimphu

After arriving at Paro International Airport, we drove to Thimphu, the capital and largest city of Bhutan. The 50 km drive is along a slow, mostly winding road with a travel time of 1¼ hours

Buddha Dordenma

One of the world's largest Buddha statues, the Buddha Dordenma is 51.5 metres (169 ft) in height.

One of the world’s largest Buddha statues, the Buddha Dordenma is 51.5 metres (169 ft) in height.

Towering over Thimphu is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world. Buddha Dordenma is a massive statue of Shakyamuni which measures in at a height of 51.5 metres (169 ft).

Detail of a temple roof at the Buddha Dordenma temple complex.

Detail of a temple roof at the Buddha Dordenma temple complex.

The statue was built to fulfil an ancient prophecy that stated that once a statue was built on this site, an aura of peace and happiness would spread across the entire world. This clearly hasn’t happened yet!

Sitting atop a huge meditation hall, the Buddha Dordenma exudes peace and tranquillity.

Sitting atop a huge meditation hall, the Buddha Dordenma exudes peace and tranquility.

The statue is made of bronze and is gilded in gold and was constructed over a period of 9 years at a cost of US$47 million.

An image of serenity, the Buddha Dordenma is located on a mountain slope, overlooking the capital, Thimphu.

An image of serenity, the Buddha Dordenma is located on a mountain slope, overlooking the capital, Thimphu.

No less than 125,000 smaller Buddha statues have been placed within the Buddha Dordenma statue. Each of these statues have also been cast in bronze and gilded in gold.

A worshipper, circumambulating the Buddha Dordenma.

A worshipper, circumambulating the Buddha Dordenma.

The throne that the Buddha Dordenma sits upon is a large meditation hall which can be visited but photography is strictly forbidden.

Buddha Dordenma, radiating peace and serenity over Thimphu Valley.

Buddha Dordenma, radiating peace and serenity over Thimphu Valley.

The Buddha Dordenma is located atop a hill in Kuenselphodrang Nature Park and overlooks the southern entrance to Thimphu Valley.

Worshipers entering the Buddha Dordenma temple.

Worshipers entering the Buddha Dordenma temple.

Kuenselphodrang Nature Park was the setting for a massive tree planting exercise in 2015 which set a world record for the ‘most trees planted in one hour’ with 49,672 trees planted by 100 volunteers.

During my visit to the temple, the religious leader of Bhutan, Je Khenpo, was leading worshippers in a month-long pray.

Worshipers arriving at the Buddha Dordenma temple to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.

Worshipers arriving at the Buddha Dordenma temple to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.

This involved his Holiness reading prays, almost uninterrupted, from sunrise to sunset, 7 days a week, for the entire month of October. Yes – 31 days of continuous pray!

Volunteers at the Buddha Dordenma temple distribute free fruit to worshipers.

Volunteers at the Buddha Dordenma temple distribute free fruit to worshipers.

For the entire month, the temple is crowded with worshippers who travel from around the country to join the pray.

During the month of October, thousands of worshippers gather at Buddha Dordenma to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.

During the month of October, thousands of worshippers gather at Buddha Dordenma to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.

As you can hear in the following video recording, his Holiness hardly stops to catch his breath, although he does take the occasional tea and toilet break. An incredible feat!

Volunteer attendants at the monthly pray meeting are easily identifiable in their orange uniforms.

Volunteer attendants at the monthly pray meeting are easily identifiable in their orange uniforms.


Video: The religious leader of Bhutan, Je Khenpo, reciting prays at the Buddha Dordenma temple in Thimphu during the month of October.


National Institute for Zorig Chusum

Students at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu.

Students at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu.

Located in downtown Thimphu, the National Institute for Zorig Chusum was established by the Government of Bhutan in 1971 to preserve and promote traditional art in contemporary Bhutan.

A woodcarving class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

A woodcarving class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

The words ‘Zorig Chusum’, which literally means “Thirteen Crafts”, refer to the 13 crafts which are taught at the institute.

An art class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

An art class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

These crafts are:

  • Traditional Painting
  • Sculpture
  • Wood Carving
  • Calligraphy
  • Paper making
  • Bronze Casting
  • Embroidery
  • Weaving
  • Carpentry
  • Masonry
  • Bamboo and cane weaving
  • Gold/Silver smithy
  • Black smithy
Sculpture class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

Sculpture class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

The institute provides 4-6 years of training to each student.

The prayer wheel at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

The prayer wheel at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

During our visit, I was free to enter the different classrooms to view classes in progress and interact with the friendly students who were all keen to tell me about their chosen craft.

Handmade traditional boots for sale at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

Handmade traditional boots for sale at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

A large gift shop sells the works from the students at very reasonable prices – a great place to purchase souvenirs.

Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre

A range of exquisite handwoven fabrics, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

A range of exquisite handwoven fabrics, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

The Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre is located on the main Thimphu-Paro Road, at the southern end of Thimphu.

Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Downstairs, its weavers produce the most exquisite handwoven textiles. A finely embroidered kira can take nine months to make and cost over US$1,200.

A weaver, at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

A weaver, at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Upstairs, a large gift shop is paradise for anyone looking to buy handwoven Bhutanese textiles, with items ranging from a few dollars to a few thousand dollars!

Traditional Bhutanese boots, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Traditional Bhutanese boots, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.

Druk Wangditse Lhakhang

Fully renovated over a period of 5 years, the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang (temple) was reopened in 2020.

Fully renovated over a period of 5 years, the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang (temple) was reopened in 2020.

Druk Wangditse Lhakhang (“Temple of the Peak of Conquest”) is located high on a forested ridge which overlooks the whole of Thimphu valley. This is the best place to get photos of the entire capital, framed by colourful pray flags.

Druk Wangditse Lhakhang is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, and considered an important heritage site of Bhutan.

The temple, which was established in 1715, suffered major damage during an earthquake in 2011. It was reopened in 2020 following a complete renovation.

Doorway at the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.

Doorway at the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.

The restored temple contains a large gilt copper image of Shakyamuni Buddha. As with all temples in Bhutan – photography inside the temple is forbidden.

The temple is accessed via a hiking trail with runs along the top of a ridge. The 45-minute hike commences from the Bhutan Broadcasting System Tower.

Dochula Pass

The 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens were installed on a hillock, at Dochula Pass, in 2003 as a memorial to the 108 Bhutanese soldiers who died fighting Indian rebels.

The 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens were installed on a hillock, at Dochula Pass, in 2003 as a memorial to the 108 Bhutanese soldiers who died fighting Indian rebels.

The long and winding highway which connects Thimphu with Punakha slowly climbs its way up to the Dochula Pass which sits at an elevation of 3,100 metres (10,170 ft).

A view of the main Chorten which is surrounded by three rows of smaller Chortens.

A view of the main Chorten which is surrounded by three rows of smaller Chortens.

The pass offers an (apparently) amazing 360-degree panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayas on a clear day.

The Druk Wangyal Chortens are built on a grassy mound which forms a roundabout in the middle of the highway.

The Druk Wangyal Chortens are built on a grassy mound which forms a roundabout in the middle of the highway.

These towering peaks are very shy and often hidden by cloud. Although I made two visits, I never got to see this amazing panorama.

A view of the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass, a spectacular memorial located at Dochula Pass.

A view of the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass, a spectacular memorial located at Dochula Pass.

Adding to the dramatic setting are 108 memorial chorten (stupas) known as Druk Wangyal Chortens which have been installed on a grassy hillock in the centre of the road.

The Chortens were constructed following a strict religious building process.

The Chortens were constructed following a strict religious building process.

Built in three succeeding rows, the chortens were constructed to honour martyred Bhutanese soldiers who sacrificed their lives in a battle against Indian insurgents in 2003.

I treated my driver and guide to coffee and fresh eclairs at the Druk Wangyel Cafe. Everyone was happy!

I treated my driver and guide to coffee and fresh eclairs at the Druk Wangyel Café. Everyone was happy!

Dochula Pass is a popular stop on the journey between Thimphu and Punakha with all tourists stopping to take photos and enjoy the offerings of the Druk Wangyel Café. I treated my driver and guide to coffee and freshly made eclairs which were divine.

A Gray Langur monkey, and her infant, at Dochula Pass.

A Gray Langur monkey, and her infant, at Dochula Pass.

While we were at the pass, I spotted a troop of Gray Langur monkeys swinging through the trees.

A very timid and elusive species, most of the monkeys scattered into the forest before I could get any decent photos. One monkey which stuck around for photos was a mother who was nursing an infant. Very special!

The very elusive, Gray Langur monkey, at Dochula Pass.

The very elusive, Gray Langur monkey, at Dochula Pass.

My guide told me that the Bhutanese consider the sighting of Gray Langur monkeys to be very auspicious.

Punakha

Punakha Dzong

Located at the confluence of two rivers, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.

Located at the confluence of two rivers, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.

Known as the ‘Palace of Great Happiness’, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.

The temple complex inside Punakha Dzong.

The temple complex inside Punakha Dzong.

The fortress was built in 1637 at the confluence of two rivers, the Mo Chhu (Female River) and the Po Chhu (Male River), at a location said to have been chosen by the founder of Bhutan.

My guide, Jamyang, entering the temple at Punakha Dzong.

My guide, Jamyang, entering the temple at Punakha Dzong.

The fortress served as the administrative centre and the seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955 when the capital was moved to Thimphu.

The fortress-monastery lies at the centre of the complex which once served as the capital of Bhutan.

The fortress-monastery lies at the centre of the complex which once served as the capital of Bhutan.

Today, the fortress is divided into two halves, with one half serving as a religious complex and the other half housing the administrative offices of Punakha district.

This fortress, which is accessed via a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Mo Chhu, is the home of Bhutan’s spirituality.

The remains of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, the founder of Bhutan, are preserved inside the Machey Lhakhang (temple). Access to this temple is reserved for the King and the spiritual leader of Bhutan.

Doorway at Punakha Dzong.

Doorway at Punakha Dzong.

It is a Punakha Dzong that Bhutan’s Kings are crowned and the head of the Buddhist clergy anointed.

Prayer wheel at the entrance of Punakha Dzong.

Prayer wheel at the entrance of Punakha Dzong.

Punakha Suspension Bridge

Punakha suspension Bridge is the longest such bridge in Bhutan, measuring 180 metres (590 ft) in length.

Punakha suspension Bridge is the longest such bridge in Bhutan, measuring 180 metres (590 ft) in length.

Bhutan is famous for its numerous suspension bridges, which span its many raging rivers. Punakha suspension bridge is the longest such bridge in Bhutan, measuring 180 metres (590 ft) in length.

The Punakha suspension bridge crosses the fast-flowing Po Chhu River (Male River).

The Punakha suspension bridge crosses the fast-flowing Po Chhu River (Male River).

The bridge, which spans the Po Chhu River (Male River) is decked with many colourful prayer flags which flutter in the brisk breeze which is generated by the raging waters of the river.

A school student, on her way home, crossing the Punakha suspension bridge.

A school student, on her way home, crossing the Punakha suspension bridge.

Although the current bridge is a modern construction, the first bridge was built in 1637 by the great architect and iron bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo, the same man who built the iron bridge at Paro (see following section).

The bridge is used by local school children whose school is located on the other side of the river.

The bridge is used by local school children whose school is located on the other side of the river.

The bridge connects Punakha Dzong with Punakha town and is used by locals, including school children whose school is located on the opposite side of the river.

Prayer flags on Punakha suspension bridge.

Prayer flags on Punakha suspension bridge.

Chimi Lhakhang

A view of Chimi Lhakhang and its unique black stupa - the only one in Bhutan.

A view of Chimi Lhakhang and its unique black stupa – the only one in Bhutan.

Located near the town of Lobesa, Chimi Lhakhang (temple) is popularly known to be the fertility temple among many and is frequented by childless couples and others alike for blessings.

A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.

A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.

The temple was built in the 15th century by Lama Drukpa Kunley, who was popularly known as the ‘Divine Madman’. He was known for his unorthodox teachings and was the saint who advocated the use of phallus symbols as paintings on walls.

A young girl at Chimi Lhakhang.

A young girl at Chimi Lhakhang.

Legend says that Lama Drukpa Kunley killed a demoness, turned her into a dog and buried the hound under the mound.

He then said ‘chi-med’, meaning no dog, and built a black stupa on top of a mound. The temple is unique for being the only temple with a black stupa.

A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.

A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.

The temple is the repository of the original wooden symbol of phallus that Kunley brought from Tibet.

A monk, teaching an outdoor class at Chimi Lhakhang.

A monk, teaching an outdoor class at Chimi Lhakhang.

This wooden phallus is used to bless people who visit the monastery on pilgrimage, particularly women seeking blessings to beget children.

As with all temples in Bhutan – photography inside the temple is forbidden! 

An outdoor school at Chimi Lhakhang.

An outdoor school at Chimi Lhakhang.

Phalluses Everywhere! 

Almost all homes in the village of Lobesa feature ejaculating penises on their exterior walls.

Almost all homes in the village of Lobesa feature ejaculating penises on their exterior walls.

Widely seen throughout the Kingdom, the phallus is an occult emblem in Bhutan that represents protection from evil and good fortune.

A shop in Lobesa is adorned with a 'shooting' phallus.

A shop in Lobesa is adorned with a ‘shooting’ phallus.

Bhutanese people have held this notion for generations. They also consider the phallus as a symbol of fertility.

Decorated phalluses for sale in a gift shop in Lobesa.

Decorated phalluses for sale in a gift shop in Lobesa.

The walls of most houses in Lobesa are adorned with large, painted, phalluses, while gift shops in town offer a large range of phallus-themed souvenirs.

Size doesn't matter! Me (190 cm), posing next to a giant phallus in a Lobesa giftshop.

Size doesn’t matter! Me (190 cm), posing next to a giant phallus in a Lobesa giftshop.

Around town, ornate penises can be seen everywhere, flanking household doorways, hanging off rooftops, or used as signage or gimmicks.

Bhutan offers an interesting selection of souvenirs!

Bhutan offers an interesting selection of souvenirs!

Khuruthang Lhakhang 

Khuruthang Lhakhang features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).

Khuruthang Lhakhang features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).

Located in the charmless town of Khuruthang, Khuruthang Lhakhang (temple) was constructed in 2005 under the patronage of the Queen Mother.

Prayer wheels at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

Prayer wheels at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

While the temple is located on the main road which leads to the much more famous Punakha Dzong, most tourists seem to give it a miss.

The Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

The Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.

I asked my guide to make a stop as the light was dazzling. I enjoyed photographing the large white, Nepalese-style, Chorten (Stupa) and also had the opportunity to photograph a couple of monks who were kicking a football around the temple grounds.

Worth the stop!

Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery

A nun, circumambulating the Chorten (Stupa) at the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.

A nun, circumambulating the Chorten (Stupa) at the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.

Perched precariously on top of a narrow ridge overlooking Toebesa, Punakha and Wangdue valleys, Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery is a temple and nunnery complex which is supported by the Queen Mother, who lives in a residence next door.

The Stupa was modelled after Kathmandu's Boudhanath stupa.

The Stupa was modelled after Kathmandu’s Boudhanath stupa.

One of the few nunneries in Bhutan, it was built as a Buddhist college for nuns and currently houses about 120 nuns.

The stupa at Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.

The stupa at Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.

During my visit, I met one young nun, who had just joined, and planned to remain there for at least 10 years.

This nun planned to spend 10 years at the nunnery.

This nun planned to spend 10 years at the nunnery.

A highlight of the complex is a large white stupa which is modelled on Kathmandu’s Boudhanath stupa.

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten was built to ward off evil spirits and to bring world peace.

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten was built to ward off evil spirits and to bring world peace.

A modern temple, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten was constructed in 2004, under the patronage of the Queen Mother, to ward off evil spirits in Bhutan and across the world, and to bring peace and harmony to all living things.

A view of the rice paddies in Punakha Valley from the rooftop of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.

A view of the rice paddies in Punakha Valley from the rooftop of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.

Despite being a modern construction, the temple looks much older due to the fact that it was built following strict traditional building methods. It took Bhutanese carpenters, painters and sculptors nine years to build the four-story, pagoda-style stupa.

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten is located on a mountain ridge, overlooking the Punakha Valley.

Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten is located on a mountain ridge, overlooking the Punakha Valley.

One interesting feature of the temple is the rooftop terrace which offers panoramic views of Punakha Valley and beyond.

Panoramic views of the Punakha Valley from the rooftop terrace.

Panoramic views of the Punakha Valley from the rooftop terrace.

The temple is reached via a 40-minute, uphill, hiking trail which starts from a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The village is the starting point for rafting trips down the Mo Chhu (Female River).

Paro

Tachog Lhakhang and the Iron Bridge

The Iron Bridge, which spans the Paro River, was constructed in 1433 from hand-forged iron chain links.

The Iron Bridge, which spans the Paro River, was constructed in 1433 from hand-forged iron chain links.

Located on the outskirts of Paro, overlooking the Paro River, Tachog Lhakhang is one of several temples in Paro believed to have been founded by the Tibetan monk, Thangtong Gyalpo (1385-1464).

This new suspension bridge has replaced the defunct Iron Bridge.

This new suspension bridge has replaced the defunct Iron Bridge.

Thangtong Gyalpo is better known as the Iron Bridge Maker for his pioneering engineering works, including chain-link suspension bridges. He was a man ahead of his time!

A view of the Tachog Lhakhang (temple) from across the Paro River.

A view of the Tachog Lhakhang (temple) from across the Paro River.

Prior to the temple being built, an iron bridge was constructed in 1433 under Gyalpo’s direction. Called the Tamchog Chakzam, it was constructed of multiple lengths of handmade iron chains secured by gatehouses at opposite banks of the Paro River.

A view of the Iron Bridge and one of the former guardhouses.

A view of the Iron Bridge and one of the former guardhouses.

Ropes tied between the chains allowed for foot traffic in both directions.

National Museum of Bhutan

The entrance to the National Museum of Bhutan, which is housed in a former watchtower.

The entrance to the National Museum of Bhutan, which is housed in a former watchtower.

Located on a ridge overlooking Paro valley, the National Museum of Bhutan is a cultural museum which boasts over 3,000 works of Bhutanese art, covering more than 1,500 years of Bhutan’s cultural heritage.

The museum, which is perched on a ridge, above Paro Dzong (Paro Fortress), is housed in its former watchtower (ta dzong) which dates from 1649. The watchtower was renovated in 1968 to house the museum but was damaged during the earthquake of 2011.

School children, visiting the National Museum of Bhutan.

School children, visiting the National Museum of Bhutan.

Following renovations, the National Museum was reopened in 2020, just as the Covid-19 pandemic was shutting down the entire world.

The museum today is open and receiving visitors who enter at the top of the tower and exit at the bottom. The museum grounds offer panoramic views of Paro Dzong, Paro Airport, Paro, and the Paro valley.

A view of Paro Valley, and the Paro River, from the National Museum of Bhutan.

A view of Paro Valley, and the Paro River, from the National Museum of Bhutan.

As with temples, photography is strictly forbidden inside the museum. All bags and recording devices must be left in a locker at the front entrance.

Taktshang (Tiger’s Nest Monastery) 

The iconic Tiger's Nest Monastery is the most popular tourist sight in Bhutan.

The iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most popular tourist sight in Bhutan.

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is a small collection of buildings precariously perched on a cliff – 900 metres above the floor of Paro Valley at an altitude of 3,120 metres (10,240 ft).

It is stunning in its beauty and location and is the #1 tourist attraction in Bhutan, with almost every visitor making the trek up the mountain to visit this truly amazing sight.

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is perched on the edge of a cliff, 900 metres above Paro Valley.

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is perched on the edge of a cliff, 900 metres above Paro Valley.

The temple was constructed in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated, the event that introduced Buddhism into Bhutan.

According to legend, Guru Rinpoche was carried from Tibet to this location on the back of a tigress, thus giving it the name “Tiger’s Nest.”

This prayer wheel marks the halfway mark of the hike up to the Tiger's Nest Monastery.

This prayer wheel marks the halfway mark of the hike up to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

The only way to reach the temple is by hiking up a trail which starts in a car park, which lies at an elevation of 2,600 metres (8,525 ft), which makes for an uphill hike of 520 metres (1,700 ft).

Taktsang Cafeteria serves Barista-made coffee and a buffet lunch.

Taktsang Cafeteria serves Barista-made coffee and a buffet lunch.

The average hiking time up and down is 4 – 5 hours. While the trail is uphill the entire way, it’s not overly steep and there is an option to ride on ponies up to the Taktsang Cafeteria which lies at the halfway mark.

For the experience, I hired this pony to carry me up the first half of the hiking trail.

For the experience, I hired this pony to carry me up the first half of the hiking trail.

Almost everyone makes a stop at the cafe, which was completely renovated during the pandemic lockdown. The cafe is located directly below the temple complex and affords amazing views of the temple from its large outdoor terrace.

The view of the Tiger's Nest Monastery from the terrace of the Taktsang Cafeteria..

The view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery from the terrace of the Taktsang Cafeteria..

Despite its remote location, the cafe includes a full kitchen which provides a buffet lunch, a fancy coffee machine from which you can purchase excellent barista-made coffee, drinks and meals.

Monks at the Tiger's Nest Monastery.

Monks at the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

While standing on the terrace of the cafe, you can ponder the trail ahead – which is less steep than the 1st half.

Since the pandemic, almost all of the colourful pray flags have been removed from the walking trail so it’s now not possible to get the iconic photo of the temple with pray flags overhead.

The Tiger's Nest Monastery is the #1 tourist attraction in Bhutan.

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the #1 tourist attraction in Bhutan.

Once at the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, my guide took me on a tour of the different buildings. As with all temples in Bhutan, photography is strictly forbidden and any recording devices must be left in a locker at a security checkpoint.

Hot Stone Bath

My hot stone bath, which was scalding hot.

My hot stone bath, which was scalding hot.

One evening in Paro, I was treated to a truly unique experience – a hot stone bath, a form of traditional Bhutanese spa therapy where fresh river water is mixed with local Artemisia leaves and heated with fire-roasted river stones.

Hours before the bath, the stones are arranged in a pyramid over the red-hot charcoals of a fire. These are then placed into a container at one end of the bath and heat the water to about scalding point. The water was way too hot for me. I had to add an amount of cold water before I could comfortably sit in the bath.

My driver and guide, relaxing before their hot stone bath.

My driver and guide, relaxing before their hot stone bath.

Artemisia, which is commonly known as wormwood or sweet sagewort, is used in traditional Chinese medicine for fevers, inflammation, headaches, bleeding, and even malaria.

Accommodation

Since most tourists are travelling on organised tours, hotels are pre-arranged by the tour company. During my week in Bhutan, I stayed in three very comfortable hotels.

Service in Bhutanese hotels is always of a high standard with staff going above and beyond to ensure your stay is a pleasant one.

Thimphu

My spacious room at the Osel Hotel in Thimphu.

My spacious room at the Osel Hotel in Thimphu.

While in Thimphu, I was accommodated in the wonderful Osel Hotel, a 4-star hotel which is located a short stroll from the downtown area.

The large, comfortable, spacious rooms offer panoramic views over the capital and of the surrounding mountains, including the large seated Buddha, Buddha Dordenma.

The walls of the hotel have been hand-painted by local artists and feature the usual Bhutanese themes.

The hotel restaurant offers buffet breakfast and an a-la-carte dinner service, all of which was included in the cost of my tour.

An excellent hotel in a central location, Osel Hotel serves as an ideal base for exploring Thimphu.

Punakha

My room at the Drubchhu Resort in Lobesa.

My room at the Drubchhu Resort in Lobesa.

In Punakha, I stayed at the Drubchhu Resort which is located on the slope of a mountain in the village of Lobesa, overlooking Punakha valley.

At the time of my visit, the hotel had only just opened, following the 2.5-year closure of Bhutan due to the pandemic.

Meals included buffet breakfast and dinner with much of the produce coming from the hotel’s own vegetable garden. Water on the property is supplied by a local spring.

Paro

My deluxe room at the Metta Resort in Paro.

My deluxe room at the Metta Resort in Paro.

While in Paro, I stayed at the superb Metta Resort, which is located outside of Paro and offers deluxe, spacious rooms.

As with all other hotels, a buffet breakfast is included.

If you need to get washing done, I can recommend their very reasonably priced laundry service, which includes pressing!

Eating Out

Produce market in Paro.

Produce market in Paro.

Bhutanese cuisine is healthy and simple and is largely vegetarian. You will not find the usual fast-food outlets anywhere in the Kingdom. Restaurants serve home-style cooking and, due to the ‘no-kill’ policy, any meat which is served is imported from India.

The cuisine of Bhutan employs much rice, especially locally grown red rice (like brown rice in texture, but with a nutty taste) – the only variety of rice that grows at high altitudes.

The farmers' market in Paro offers a selection of local and imported produce.

The farmers’ market in Paro offers a selection of local and imported produce.

During my visit in October, a sea of golden rice fields covered most valleys. It was rice harvest time, and farmers were busy harvesting their valuable rice crop.

Another popular item in Bhutanese cuisine are handmade buckwheat noodles – healthy and delicious!

Rice Harvest

Rice fields ready for harvesting in the Punakha Valley.

Rice fields ready for harvesting in the Punakha Valley.

After a year of patiently waiting, Bhutanese farmers finally get to harvest their rice crop in October.

Farmers, hand-thrashing rice against a large stone in the Punakha Valley.

Farmers, hand-thrashing rice against a large stone in the Punakha Valley.


Video: Hand thrashing rice in Bhutan

 


While Bhutan is mostly mountainous, small pockets of land, hidden away inside deep, narrow valleys are almost exclusively given over to the cultivation of rice and corn.

Of the land area of Bhutan, 75% of the country is under forest cover while just 3% is cultivated.

A farmer, machine-thrashing rice in the Punakha Valley.

A farmer, machine-thrashing rice in the Punakha Valley.


Video: Machine thrashing rice in Bhutan.


Rice can only be grown in the lower-altitude valleys of Bhutan with the valleys at Paro and Punakha almost exclusively devoted to the cultivation of rice.

This husband-and-wife team were working together to harvest their rice crop in the Punakha Valley.

This husband-and-wife team were working together to harvest their rice crop in the Punakha Valley.

Rice is indispensable in Bhutanese cuisine and more than 69% of the population is engaged in farming with rice and maize as the main crops.

Rice fields in the Punakha Valley.

Rice fields in the Punakha Valley.

Rice is the most widely consumed cereal in Bhutan, where the locals will tell you ‘Rice is life‘. For the Bhutanese, a meal without rice isn’t a meal!

Rice, ready to harvest in the Punakha Valley.

Rice, ready to harvest in the Punakha Valley.

Domestic rice production meets only about 50% of the total demand, with the deficit made up of rice imports from neighbouring India.

Large stacks of rice stalks indicate those fields which have already been harvested.

Large stacks of rice stalks indicate those fields which have already been harvested.

I arrived in Bhutan at the start of the rice harvest season, when the valleys were covered by a sea of golden rice fields. A truly dazzling sight!

Rice paddies in Punakha Valley.

Rice paddies in Punakha Valley.

Kingdom of Peppers

Chillies, drying on a rooftop in Thimphu.

Chillies, drying on a rooftop in Thimphu.

Bhutan is the Kingdom of peppers with chillies forming an integral part of Bhutanese cuisine. This is a country where chillies aren’t just a seasoning but the main ingredient.

Chillies are served in almost all meals. The Bhutanese will also often ask for a side plate of raw chillies, just to add a little extra spice to their meal.

Everywhere you travel in Bhutan, you’ll see carpets of red chillies drying on the roofs of houses.

On average, a Bhutanese household consumes more than 1 kilo of chilli in a week.

One of the most popular dishes in Bhutan is ‘Ema Datshi‘ a simple, tasty and fiery dish which is made of chillies and yaks’ cheese.

Potatoes Galore

Due to its high altitude, Bhutan is able to grow a variety of crops which cannot be grown on the sweltering tropical plains of neighbouring India.

One such crop, potatoes, are a key export item for Bhutan. As we travelled on the highways of Bhutan, we constantly passed trucks which were laden with potatoes, all destined for India.

The average annual export of Bhutanese potatoes, to India, is around 20,000MT.

Restaurants

As with accommodation, all meals are provided by your tour company who normally reserve restaurants in advance.

Writing this section of my guide has me now salivating as I remember the amazing tastes and flavours of Bhutanese cuisine. It’s a shame the world isn’t full of Bhutanese restaurants. Such a healthy cuisine.

Thimphu

Lunchtime at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, with my guide, Jamyang (left) and driver, Thukten.

Lunchtime at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, with my guide, Jamyang (left) and driver, Thukten.

During my first day of sightseeing in Thimphu, I was taken to lunch at the very rustic Babesa Village Restaurant.

Interior of the rustic Babesa Village Restaurant in Thimphu.

Interior of the rustic Babesa Village Restaurant in Thimphu.

The restaurant, which serves homely Bhutanese cuisine, is located inside an old heritage home which is around 600 years old.

Jamyang, adding toasted rice to my yak-butter tea at Babesa restaurant in Thimphu.

Jamyang, adding toasted rice to my yak-butter tea at Babesa restaurant in Thimphu.

Before we ate, we were served a cup of traditional yak-butter tea. The Bhutanese make their yak tea a little more interesting with the addition of toasted rice grains.

Meals in Bhutan are always served communal-style, on a low table, with seating on the floor.

Meals in Bhutan are always served communal-style, on a low table, with seating on the floor.

Seating is on the floor, which is typical in Bhutan, with meals served, communal style, on a low table.

My lunch at the Babesa restaurant included a selection of classic Bhutanese dishes.

My lunch at the Babesa restaurant included a selection of classic Bhutanese dishes.

Most of the dishes were vegetarian with a couple of meat dishes. The flavours and freshness of the dishes had me digging in for 2nds and 3rds. Delicious!

I always enjoyed the vegetarian dishes in Bhutan while the meat dishes, which use imported meat from India, were often tough and chewy. I learnt quickly to focus on the vegetarian options.

Punakha

My lunch, which was packing lots of chillies, at the Chimi Lhakhang Organic Cafe in Lobesa.

My lunch, which was packing lots of chillies, at the Chimi Lhakhang Organic Cafe in Lobesa.

Perched on a hill, overlooking the rice fields of Punakha valley, the excellent Chimi Lhakhang Organic Cafe is a popular lunch restaurant. On the day we visited, the restaurant was busy serving numerous tour groups.

Like most other restaurants in Bhutan, meals tend to be tasty vegetarian options which are made from local produce and served with lots of rice and chillies.

After lunch, I walked with my guide through the rice fields, where we were able to observe farmers harvesting their rice crops.

Paro

The owners of Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse in Paro, who prepared the most amazing meal using produce from their farm.

The owners of Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse in Paro, who prepared the most amazing meal using produce from their farm.

One evening in Paro, I was led by my guide and driver along a dark country lane to a farmhouse which was our dinner venue.

The Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse is a typical Bhutanese farmhouse.

The Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse is a typical Bhutanese farmhouse.

The Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse is owned by a young, energetic, couple who grow their own produce which they serve to appreciative visitors in the form of tasty homecooked meals. Truly divine!

Our divine Bhutanese dinner which was served at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse.

Our divine Bhutanese dinner which was served at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse.

The meals prepared included a range of delicious Bhutanese classic vegetarian dishes, including the most amazing homemade buckwheat noodles.

My dinner at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse, which included a delicious pumpkin and ginger soup.

My dinner at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse, which included a delicious pumpkin and ginger soup.

After dinner, we were treated to a shot of homemade ara, a traditional alcoholic beverage which is popular in Bhutan and is normally made from fermented rice. A Himalayan version of saké, it was surprisingly smooth.

Cafes

The Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro, which serves excellent coffee.

The Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro, which serves excellent coffee.

A couple of decent cafes can be found in Thimphu and Paro, all of which serve very good, barista-made, coffee.

Paro

The Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

The Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

My favourite cafe in Paro was the Mountain Cafe and Roastery, which has two branches in downtown Paro.

With the only coffee roasting machine in Bhutan, the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro serves the freshest and best coffee in the Bhutan.

With the only coffee roasting machine in Bhutan, the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro serves the freshest and best coffee in the Bhutan.

This is the only cafe in Bhutan with a coffee roaster and, as a result, they serve the best tasting coffee in the entire Kingdom.

A divine coffee, and freshly made cheesecake, at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

A divine coffee, and freshly made cheesecake, at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.

Along with their amazing coffee, they offer freshly baked cakes, cookies and meals.

Thimphu

Located in Thimphu, Smilers Cafe offers very good coffee and delicious international style cooking.

Located in Thimphu, Smilers Cafe offers very good coffee and delicious international style cooking.

Located in downtown Thimphu, the wonderful coffee at Smilers Café left me smiling all day. Apart from great coffee, this funky cafe offers international-style cooking and homemade cakes.

In the evening the cafe serves as a live music venue.

Bars

The very smooth Bhutanese Wheat beer is brewed by the Namgay Artisanal Brewery in Paro.

The very smooth Bhutanese Wheat beer is brewed by the Namgay Artisanal Brewery in Paro.

If you are looking for a roaring pub scene, Bhutan is not your country.

There are a couple of bars/ lounges in Thimphu and alcohol can be purchased at hotels and supermarkets. There are a number of breweries in Bhutan which produce very tasty beer.

Visa Requirements

My Bhutanese visa.

My Bhutanese visa.

Visas are required by all foreigners, and must are obtained, in advance, by your tour company.

You will need to show your visa before you board your flight to Bhutan. Without a valid visa, which will only be valid for the dates of your tour, you will be denied boarding.

The current (2022) visa fee is US$40.

My Bhutanese passport stamps.

My Bhutanese passport stamps.

Nationals from the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries – i.e. India, Bangladesh and Maldives – do not require a visa, but must obtain a permit before visiting Bhutan.

You can check your requirements by referring to the Visa Policy of Bhutan.

Getting There

Air

Located in a narrow valley, Paro International Airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.

Located in a narrow valley, Paro International Airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.

Paro International Airport is the only international airport in Bhutan and, due to its location in a narrow valley, surrounded by towering peaks, is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.

A view of the terminal at Paro International Airport, with a mural featuring the King and Queen of Bhutan and their son., Prince Jigme Namgyel Wangchuck.

A view of the terminal at Paro International Airport, with a mural featuring the King and Queen of Bhutan and their son., Prince Jigme Namgyel Wangchuck.

Due to the mountainous topography of Bhutan, the only place suitable for constructing a runway, of considerable length, was in Paro Valley.

The narrow valley is located at 2,235 metres (7,333 ft) above sea level and is surrounded on all sides by mountains which soar as high as 4,900 metres (16,100 ft).

A Druk Air flight, on final approach to Paro International Airport, flying over Paro Valley.

A Druk Air flight, on final approach to Paro International Airport, flying over Paro Valley.

On our final approach to Paro Airport, the landing gear was lowered and the pilots started manoeuvring the plane while we were still flying over the summits of the peaks which surround Paro airport. At the end of the valley, the plane performed a sharp right-hand turn to line up with the runway.

On final approach, there is one small hill which needs to be cleared before the pilots can descend to the 2,000 metre (6,000 ft) long runway.

Ready to board my Druk Air flight back to Singapore.

Ready to board my Druk Air flight back to Singapore.

Due to the difficulties, landings can only take place during daylight hours and can only be made by specially trained pilots. The only airlines flying to Bhutan are the two national carriers – Bhutan Airlines and Drukair.

Due to the landing restrictions, the weekly Druk Air flight to Singapore arrives in Singapore on Saturday afternoon and must overnight at the airport, with the return flight departing Changi Airport on Sunday. This is to avoid any night time landings.


Video: An excellent video by Youtuber Sam Chui shows the difficulty of landing at Paro Airport.


Bhutan Airlines is owned by the Tashi Group of Companies, which is the largest privately owned conglomerate in Bhutan. It operates a fleet of two Airbus A319-100.

Drukair operates a fleet of five planes, being three Airbus A319-100, one Airbus A320neo and one ATR 42-600 which is used for its domestic services.

Artwork, inside the arrival's hall at Paro International Airport.

Artwork, inside the arrival’s hall at Paro International Airport.

The following scheduled flights operate to/ from Paro International Airport:

  • Bhutan Airlines – flies to/ from Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Delhi, Kathmandu, Kolkata
  • Drukair – flies to/ from Bagdogra, Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Delhi, Dhaka, Gelephu, Guwahati, Jakar, Kathmandu, Kolkata, Singapore, Trashigang

Airport Transport

Airport transfers are organised by your tour company who will be waiting for you outside the arrival’s hall.

Land

The border between Bhutan and India is the only land access into Bhutan. The one other land border, shared with China, is completely closed and lies on the other side of the impenetrable barrier which is the Himalayas. An advantage for tiny Bhutan!

The only land crossing point for foreign nationals, and the main crossing for Indian nationals, is between the towns of Jaigaon, in the Indian state of West Bengal and Phuntsholing, in South West Bhutan.

Additionally, Indian passport holders can enter Bhutan through three other land borders – Gelephu, Samdrup Jongkhar and Samtse.

Getting Around

On every main road in Bhutan, road signs reinforce road safety.

On every main road in Bhutan, road signs reinforce road safety.

All transport in Bhutan is provided by your tour company. Public transport is available for locals in the form of buses and shared taxis.

Public Transport

Public buses connect the various towns of Bhutan.

Taxi

Taxis operate within towns, with shared taxis providing transport services between towns.

Rental Car

A Bhutanese car license plate.

A Bhutanese car license plate.

If you’re on an organised tour, you will not need to rent a car.

If you do need a rental car, there are various agents in Paro and Thimphu.


That’s the end of my travel guide for Bhutan.

If you wish to leave feedback, you can do so using the comments form below.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Travel Quiz 52: Australia Travel Quiz

Australia Travel Quiz

This is an Australia Travel Quiz from taste2travel!

 

How well do you know the Land Down Under? 

Test your knowledge with this Australia travel quiz from taste2travel. 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

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01. Which Australian state is renown for its lavender farms?

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02. Home to 5.3 million souls, which is Australia's largest city?

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03. What is the name of this iconic Australian parrot?

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04. Known for its autumn colours, the highland town of Armadale is located in which state?

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06. Outback Australia has been inhabited by native Aboriginals for approximately how many years?

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07. The Australian territory of Cocos (Keeling) Islands is located in which body of water?

The Home Island 'Welcome' sign.
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08. The Barossa Valley, a major wine-producing region, is located in which Australian state?

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09. Which Australian capital city lies at the foot of Mt. Wellington (1,271 m / 4,170 ft)?

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10. In which Australian city would you be if you were swimming at Bondi Beach?

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11. Which Australian city hosts the Australian Open tennis tournament every January?

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12. In which Australian state would you be if you were visiting Flinders Island?

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13. The Australian territory of Norfolk Island lies approximately how many kilometres off the east coast of Australia?

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14. An inland wave, Wave Rock is located in which Australian state?

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15. Australia's national Parliament House is located where?

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16. Bruny Island is located in which Australian state?

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17. Rottnest Island is located offshore from which Australian city?

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18. Known for its quirkiness, the opal mining town of Lightening Ridge is located in which Australian state?

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19. Developed by the Reserve Bank of Australia, polymer banknotes were first issued in which year?

The official currency of Tuvalu is the Australian dollar.
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20. Finally, this is the flag of which Australian state?

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Travel Quiz 52: Australia Travel Quiz
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Iraq Photo Gallery

Al-Ukhaidir Fortress

Iraq Photo Gallery

This is an Iraq Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Iraq Travel Guide.


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About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 215 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Iraq Travel Guide

A highlight of Samarra is the iconic Malwiya (Arabic for "twisted") Minaret.

Iraq Travel Guide

This is an Iraq Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: August 2022

Introduction

For the past few decades Iraq has been in the news headlines for all the wrong reasons. From the Iran-Iraq war during the 80’s, the 1st Gulf War during the 90’s, the 2nd Gulf War in the 2000’s, then Al-Qaeda and ISIS in later years, the news cycle has always been negative and shocking!

Worshippers at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Worshippers at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

While things have settled down considerably, Iraq is far from being a mainstream holiday destination. Most government websites which issue travel advisories (always overly cautious) advise against any sort of travel to Iraq.

Detail of the marble, winged-bull Lamassus at the Iraq Museum.

Detail of the marble, winged-bull Lamassus at the Iraq Museum.

The United States government has placed Iraq on its list of banned countries for the purposes of travel using ESTA. This affects non-US passport holders who would normally enter the US using an ESTA. If you visit Iraq, you forfeit your right to enter the US using an ESTA. Instead, you will need to apply for a Tourist Visa from a US Embassy (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more details).

A copper shop in the Al-Safafeer souk, Baghdad.

A copper shop in the Al-Safafeer souk, Baghdad.

Up until March of 2021, obtaining a visa to visit Federal Iraq (i.e. the main part of Iraq which is separate to the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan) was very difficult.

Once named one of the most beautiful monuments in the Middle East, Martyrs Monument features a 40-m tall split turquoise dome.

Once named one of the most beautiful monuments in the Middle East, Martyrs Monument features a 40-m tall split turquoise dome.

That changed following a visit to Iraq by His Holiness Pope Francis from the 5th to 8th of March. After visiting several historical sights, the Pope, who was clearly impressed by what he had seen, commented that all of humanity should be free to come to Iraq to view the many splendid sights which can be found within the country.

A highlight of the abandoned Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, near Karbala, are the decorated arches of the former mosque portico.

A highlight of the abandoned Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, near Karbala, are the decorated arches of the former mosque portico.

Just a week later, on the 15th of March 2021, the Iraqi government lifted pre-arrival visa requirements for citizens from 37 countries, allowing citizens from those countries to apply for a visa-on-arrival (VOA) at approved land, sea and air border crossings. More details on the VOA can be found in the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.

Al-Askari Shrine is one of many dazzling Shia shrines which can be visited in Iraq.

Al-Askari Shrine is one of many dazzling Shia shrines which can be visited in Iraq.

Despite its recent turmoil, Iraq has an illustrious and glorious history. Modern Iraq started life as the ancient civilisation of Mesopotamia, where the world’s earliest civilisation developed. The name comes from a Greek word meaning “between rivers,” referring to the land between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers.

Al-Ukhaidir Fortress - a photographer's dream.

Al-Ukhaidir Fortress – a photographer’s dream.

The fabled city of Babylon, which was built on the banks of the Euphrates River, lies one hour south of modern Baghdad and is again open to tourists.

Apart from its wealth of ancient history, Iraq is home to the holiest sites for Shi’ite Muslims, with the most ornate and dazzling shrines open for all to visit. The holy shrines are located in the cities of Karbala, Najaf and Samarra and are truly special places to visit.

A shop in Baghdad souk.

A shop in Baghdad souk.

It’s as close to Mecca as a non-Muslim can get. I was always made to feel welcome when visiting these most sacred of places.

Like their brothers in Iraqi Kurdistan, the Iraqis of Federal Iraq are some of the kindest, nicest, most welcoming people a traveller could ever hope to meet. Never did I feel threatened or unsafe in Iraq.

Detail of ceiling fresco in the throne room of Saddam's Babylon palace.

Detail of ceiling fresco in the throne room of Saddam’s Babylon palace.

Iraq is a country which has a long way to go before it can be considered a ‘normal’ travel destination. It’s currently dusting itself off after many decades of war.

There is still a heavy military presence in the streets, with heavily armed soldiers everywhere, sitting in their armoured Humvees which are equipped with turrets and mounted machine guns. I was told by Iraqi friends that the security situation is very volatile and that a visible military presence is still required.

During my visit, the Shia cleric, turned politician, the powerful and influential Moqtada al-Sadr announced in a Tweet that he was quitting politics.

Truly opulent! The Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Truly opulent! The Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

This news outraged his many passionate supporters who took to the streets of Baghdad with machine guns and other heavy weapons. They stormed the secure ‘Green Zone’, overran the Presidential Palace and at the end of the day, there were many fatalities.

The country was placed under a national curfew, I was told not to leave the hotel! The violence only ended the following day after Moqtada al-Sadr called for calm.

A view of Baghdad souk with Shia flags flying overhead.

A view of Baghdad souk with Shia flags flying overhead.

I enjoyed my time in Iraq and look forward to returning again one day to explore further.]

I would recommend Iraq as a travel destination for those who are intrepid. Everywhere I travelled, I had amazing, world-class, sights to myself. Such a privilege!

Location

Baghdad, Iraq

Iraq is bordered to the north by Turkey, to the east by Iran, to the west by Syria and Jordan, and to the south by Saudi Arabia and Kuwait. It is one of the easternmost countries in the Middle East.

The country is almost landlocked, with only 58 km (36 mi) of coastline along the northern end of the Persian Gulf.

History

Ancient History

During ancient times, lands that now constitute Iraq were known as Mesopotamia (“Land Between the Rivers”), a region whose extensive alluvial plains gave rise to some of the world’s earliest civilisations, including those of Sumer, Akkad, Babylon, and Assyria.

Home to many great past civilisations, Iraq has been previously incorporated into the Persian, Greek, Roman and Ottoman empires.

Monarchy

During the colonial period, Iraq was governed by the British, until the country gained formal independence in 1932.

In 1932, the British installed an Iraqi Monarch, who never gained widespread acceptance by the local population.

Short-lived, there were just three Iraqi monarchs:

  • King Faisal I – ruled from 1932 to 1933
  • King Ghazi – ruled from 1933 to 1939
  • King Faisal II – ruled from 1939 to 1958

Political instability on an even greater scale followed the overthrow of the monarch, King Faisal II, in 1958, but the installation of an Arab nationalist and socialist regime, the Baath Party, in a bloodless coup 10 years later brought new stability.

With proven oil reserves second in the world only to those of Saudi Arabia, the regime was able to finance ambitious projects and development plans throughout the 1970s and to build one of the largest and best-equipped armed forces in the Arab world.

Saddam Hussein

The party’s leadership, however, was quickly assumed by Saddam Hussein, a flamboyant and ruthless autocrat who led the country into disastrous military adventures, the Iran-Iraq War (1980–88) and the Persian Gulf War (1990–91).

These conflicts left the country isolated from the international community and financially and socially drained, but, through unprecedented coercion directed at major sections of the population, particularly the Kurdish minority and the Shia majority, Saddam was able to maintain a firm hold on power into the 21st century.

Saddam, and his regime, were toppled in 2003 during the Iraq War.

Iraq Today

Today, Iraq is split into two entities, Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, with Kurdistan being an autonomous region which is home to the Kurdish minority.

Iraqi Kurdistan, which is covered in my Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide, is ruled by its own government, has its own parliament, president and immigration procedures.

Iraqi Kurdistan is a much more secure and stable region of Iraq and is a great option for those who wish to visit a part of Iraq which has been open to tourists for many years.

People

A Shia pilgrim at the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf.

A Shia pilgrim at the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf.

Modern Iraq, created by combining three separate Ottoman provinces in the aftermath of World War I, is one of the most religiously and ethnically diverse societies in the Middle East. Although Iraq’s communities generally coexisted peacefully, fault lines between communities deepened in the 20th century as a succession of authoritarian regimes ruled by exploiting tribal, sectarian, and ethnic divisions.

The ancient Semitic peoples of Iraq, the Babylonians and Assyrians, and the non-Semitic Sumerians were long ago assimilated by successive waves of immigrants. The Arab conquests of the 7th century brought about the Arabization of central and southern Iraq. A mixed population of Kurds and Arabs inhabit a transition zone between those areas and Iraqi Kurdistan in the northeast. Roughly two-thirds of Iraq’s people are Arabs, about one-fourth are Kurds, and the remainder consists of small minority groups.

Copper merchant in Baghdad souk.

Copper merchant in Baghdad souk.

Sunnis / Shias

Many of the issues with have plagued Iraq throughout its history stem from the fact that the population is divided between Sunni and Shi’ite Muslims.

From the inception of the Iraqi state in 1920, until the fall of the government of Saddam Hussein in 2003, the ruling elites consisted mainly, although not exclusively, of minority Sunni Arabs.

Under Saddam Hussein’s regime in Iraq, which was dominated by Sunnis, the country clashed with Iran (which is led by a Shi’ite government).

Although Shias constituted the majority of the population, Iraq’s Sunni rulers gave preferential treatment to influential Sunni tribal networks, and Sunnis dominated the military officer corps and civil service.

The Sunni-Shia divide is nearly 1,400 years old, dating back to a dispute over the succession of leadership in the Muslim community following the death of the Prophet Muhammad in 632 CE.

Despite periods of open conflict between Sunnis and Shias in Iraq, the two groups are not all that different in terms of religious beliefs and commitment.

In Iraq, for example, both groups express virtually universal belief in God and the Prophet Muhammad, and similar percentages (82% of Shias and 83% of Sunnis) say religion is very important in their lives. More than nine-in-ten Iraqi Shias (93%) and Sunnis (96%) say they fast during the holy month of Ramadan.

The Shias tend to be far more flamboyant about their brand of Islam, with flags seen flying all over Shia neighbourhoods and towns, many bearing images of Ali and other Imams.

At the al-Abbas shrine in Karbala, Shia pilgrims can be seen parading around, and through, the shrine in ritual self-flagellation. The Shias very much wear their religion on their sleeves.

Shias remained politically and economically marginalized until the fall of Saddam Hussein’s regime. Since the transition to elective government, Shia factions have wielded significant political power, especially Moqtada al-Sadr, a nationalist cleric who leads one powerful faction. 

Most recently, during my visit to Iraq, tensions flared when al-Sadr announced that he was quitting politics. The ensuing unrest resulted in many deaths and a national curfew being enforced. The unrest ended once al-Sadr called for calm.

Flag

The flag of Iraq.

The flag of Iraq.

The flag of Iraq is based on the Arab Liberation flag, which uses the pan-Arab colours of red, white, and black.

Red symbolises the courage and struggles of the nation, while black represents both the oppression and triumph of the Islamic religion. White symbolises the future of Iraq and the generosity of its people.

Centred in the white band is the Takbir, a phrase that means “God is great”, written in Kufic script. The Takbir is written in green, the colour of Islam.

Currency

My wad of 100, uncirculated, IQD250 banknotes.

My wad of 100, uncirculated, IQD250 banknotes.

The official currency of Iraq is the Iraqi dinar (IQD).

Current bank notes, which are issued by the Central Bank of Iraq, include IQD 250; 500; 1,000; 5,000; 10,000; 25,000 – and the rarely seen 50,000.

Iraqi dinar bank notes.

Iraqi dinar bank notes.

If you’re interested in getting your hands on a brand-new IQD 50,000 note, I often received these from Bank of Baghdad ATMs.

Iraqi IQD 50,000 bank notes.

Iraqi IQD 50,000 bank notes.

The Iraqi dinar isn’t a free-floating currency, with the exchange rate set by the Iraqi government at US$1 = IQD 1,460. This exchange rate is factored into government budgets until at least 2026.

Iraqi IQD 25,000 bank notes.

Iraqi IQD 25,000 bank notes.

Exchange Rates

The current exchange rate of the Iraqi dinar against US $100 and €100 are:

USD $100 = IQD 146,000

EUR €100 = IQD 149,300

Saddam Hussein Dinars

Saddam Hussein dinars make for an interesting souvenir.

Saddam Hussein dinars make for an interesting souvenir.

Prior to the 1st Gulf War in 1990, high quality Iraqi dinar bank notes were printed in the United Kingdom by Thomas De La Rue.

Following the introduction of United Nations sanctions after the war, Iraq was no longer able to place currency orders with Thomas De La Rue.

A new series of bank notes were printed locally, which featured a portrait of Saddam Hussein. Known as “Saddam dinars”, the notes were of inferior quality, compared to the former UK-made bank notes, which then become known as “Swiss dinars”.

Due to prolonged international sanctions on Iraq, along with excessive government currency printing, the Saddam dinar quickly became worthless.

After Saddam Hussein was deposed in the 2003 invasion of Iraq, the Iraqi government printed more Saddam dinar notes as a stopgap measure to maintain the money supply until a new currency could be introduced.

The market had become flooded with worthless Saddam dinars. 

Wads of Saddam Hussein diners at a money exchange in Erbil souk.

Wads of Saddam Hussein diners at a money exchange in Erbil souk.

Between 2003 and 2004, the Coalition Provisional Authority issued new Iraqi dinar notes, which were printed, once again, by Thomas De La Rue in the UK.

Trillions of new dinars were shipped to Iraq and exchanged for the old Saddam dinar notes at par value.

Today, wads of souvenir Saddam Hussein dinar notes can be found at money changers throughout Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan. Each note can be purchased for IQD 1,000 (USD$0.68), making them more valuable as a souvenir than what they were when in circulation.

Banking Services

Credit Cards

Iraq is a cash society. Credit cards are accepted almost nowhere, although I was able to settle my bill at my hotel in Baghdad using my credit card.

Generally, all payments in Iraq are to be made using cash!

ATMs

You will never find an ATM on the street in Iraq.

ATMs are only found inside the larger shopping malls and at international airport terminals.

Bank branches are also non-existent, with informal money changers providing money exchange services on the street.

Not all banks are on the international network. The two banks which I found to be most reliable, and whose ATM’s accept international credit cards (i.e. Mastercard and Visa), are the Bank of Baghdad and Cihan Bank.

Iraqi Tourist Guide

My guide Fahad, of Iraq Adventures, on top of the Malwiya minaret, with the Great Mosque of Samarra in the background.

My guide Fahad, of Iraq Adventures, on top of the Malwiya minaret, with the Great Mosque of Samarra in the background.

Due to the unique security situation in Iraq – that is, a large degree of insecurity – it can be best to employ the services of a local guide, even, if like myself, that isn’t the way you would normally roll.

Certain towns, such as Samarra, are controlled by militia groups, who are more like a militarised neighbourhood watch than anything sinister and bad.

Following bombings by Al-Qaeda which destroyed the holy shrine in Samarra, it was clear to locals that security could not be assured by the Iraqi government. The militia protect Samarra and ensure anyone entering is registered first. Due to the presence of the militia, Samarra is much cleaner, safer and much better organised than other towns and cities in Iraq.

When entering Samarra, tourists are required to surrender their passports at a checkpoint, which will be handed back at the time you exit town. The guards speak almost no English and much prefer that foreigners are escorted by a local.

Having a local guide who knows the procedure and can do the talking is very helpful.

Exploring the remote desert fortress of Al-Ukhaidir with Fahad of Iraq Adventures.

Exploring the remote desert fortress of Al-Ukhaidir with Fahad of Iraq Adventures.

Likewise, gaining access to the remote desert fortress of Al-Ukhaidir isn’t always assured since the ticket office isn’t always open. Before we drove 50-km into the desert, Fahad called ahead to ensure the ticket office would be open when we arrived.

Fahad is available for daytrips or multi-day trips.


Fahad, who is available for daytrips, or multi-day trips, can be contacted at: 

Instagram: instagram.com/iraq.adventure

WhatsApp: +964 771 561 7966

Email: iraqadventure1@gmail.com


Sightseeing

Some of the most dazzling sights in Iraq are the Shia holy shrines of Karbala, Najaf and Samarra.

Some of the most dazzling sights in Iraq are the Shia holy shrines of Karbala, Najaf and Samarra.

Being the cradle of civilisation, Iraq is full of hugely important historical sights.

As the home of the most important shrines for Shia Islam, the cities of Karbala, Najaf and Samarra are important pilgrimage destinations, attracting millions of pilgrims each year.

Housed inside intricately decorated mosques, the shrines are truly dazzling sights with an incredible atmosphere.

Beautifully intricate tilework, such as on this shop in Baghdad, can be found throughout Iraq.

Beautifully intricate tilework, such as on this shop in Baghdad, can be found throughout Iraq.


Important Note: When visiting any of the holy shrines in Karbala, Najaf and Samarra, large bags and large (DSLR) cameras are not allowed inside. There are secure baggage rooms where you can store such items free of charge. These rooms are very safe and secure. I used them often.  

Only mobile phones are permitted inside the shrines and can be used to take photos. In the day of the selfie, many Shia pilgrims want to pause to capture the moment with a selfie. Everyone is busy taking photos and photography is, generally, not a problem.

However, in the rooms which house the actually shrines, photography isn’t allowed. Within these rooms, a team of friendly doormen, who are armed with long-handled feather dusters, ensure people keep moving and don’t stop the traffic flow by stopping to take photos.

If you do try to take a photo, you can expect a polite tap on your arm, or head, from a feather duster. Of course, the pilgrims all want photos of themselves in front of the shrines! I did manage to take a few quick photos at each location whenever the doormen were busy berating someone else! :-))


Baghdad

The iconic Martyr's Monument, which was covered in a layer of desert dust at the time of my visit, is a highlight of Baghdad.

The iconic Martyr’s Monument, which was covered in a layer of desert dust at the time of my visit, is a highlight of Baghdad.

Martyr’s Monument 

The iconic Martyr's Monument in Baghdad was originally dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in the Iran–Iraq War.

The iconic Martyr’s Monument in Baghdad was originally dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in the Iran–Iraq War.

The iconic landmark of Bagdad, Martyr’s Monument is a monument designed by Iraqi sculptor Ismail Fatah Al Turk.

A view of the domes - which represent life and death at Martyr's Monument.

A view of the domes – which represent life and death at Martyr’s Monument.

Commissioned by Saddam Hussein, and completed in 1983, the monument was originally dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in the Iran–Iraq War (1980 – 1988), but has since grown to become a memorial of all Iraqi martyrs.

The monument design features a 40-m tall split turquoise dome. The two halves of the split dome are offset, with an eternal flame in the middle.

Detail of Martyr's Monument, Baghdad.

Detail of Martyr’s Monument, Baghdad.

Commenting on the design of the memorial, the architect, Al Turk, commented:

“The idea of life versus death began to form. The two (dome) pieces moving together towards martyrdom and fertility and the life stream. I moved the pieces until I got the interplay I wanted.”. 

The underground museum complex at Martyr's Monument.

The underground museum complex at Martyr’s Monument.

A spiral staircase descends to a subterranean museum complex. At the time of my visit, I was the only visitor at the complex. Museum staff opened the museum so I could visit it.

The interior of the very quiet museum, beneath Martyr's Monument.

The interior of the very quiet museum, beneath Martyr’s Monument.


Access:

The monument is open from 8 am to 3 pm daily. It is a shame you are not able to access the monument during sun set and the magical blue hour. Tickets cost IQD 5,000 for tourists.

While there are two entrances to the memorial, the only entrance open to visitors is the fortified entrance on Omar Bin Al Khatab Street. 


Photos of Iraqi martyrs, at the Martyr's Monument Museum in Baghdad.

Photos of Iraqi martyrs, at the Martyr’s Monument Museum in Baghdad.

Iraq Museum

A highlight of the Iraq Museum, a pair of marble, winged-bull Lamassus which once guarded the entrance to the Assyrian city of Khorsabad.

A highlight of the Iraq Museum, a pair of marble, winged-bull Lamassus which once guarded the entrance to the Assyrian city of Khorsabad.

As a cradle of civilisation, Iraq is very rich in history. It was in Iraq that humanity finally stopped roaming the earth and instead settled in urban areas for the first time.

The rich history of the country can be seen on display at the highly important Iraq Museum in Baghdad. The museum houses precious artefacts from the Mesopotamian, Abbasid and Persian civilisations.

Detail of marble panels from the Assyrian city of Khorsabad.

Detail of marble panels from the Assyrian city of Khorsabad.

A highlight of the museum is a pair of marble, winged-bull Lamassus which once guarded the entrance to the Assyrian city of Khorsabad. The winged bull is a compound mythical creature which consists of a human head, the body of a bull and the wings of an eagle.

Walking lion from the Processional Way, part of the ancient city of Babylon.

Walking lion from the Processional Way, part of the ancient city of Babylon.

During the colonial era, many artefacts from Iraq were illegally removed during archaeological excavations. These artefacts ended up in museums in Europe and America.

One of the more famous thefts occurred while German archaeologists were working at Babylon from 1904 to 1914. During this time, the entire Ishtar gate and sections of the tiled-Processional Way were removed from Babylon and sent to German. The gate was reconstructed inside the Pergamon Museum in Berlin where it can be seen today.

The Iraq Museum has called for all artefacts to be returned to Iraq. In the meantime, the museum includes one lion from the Processional Way at Babylon.

The precious relics housed in the Iraq museum have not been spared from the ravages of recent wars. On April 8, 2003 (during the 2nd Gulf War) museum staff were ordered to leave the museum. Days later, the museum was looted with 15,000 objects being stolen. The steel exterior doors were not forced – it was an inside job. The looting ended once U.S. forces arrived on April 16.

After being closed for many years while being refurbished, and rarely open for public viewing, the museum was officially reopened in February 2015. It is a highlight of Iraq and should not be missed.


Access:

Tickets (predictably) cost IQD5,000 for foreigners!

Opening times are not as indicated on Google – best to call ahead. 


Copper Market (Al-Safafeer Souk)

The copper market at Al-Safafeer souk is a highlight of the bustling Baghdad bizarre.

The copper market at Al-Safafeer souk is a highlight of the bustling Baghdad bizarre.

For more than 300 years, copper merchants at the Al-Safafeer souk in the heart of Baghdad have been selling hand-crafted copperware.

Copper artisan at the al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

Copper artisan at the al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

The name of the souk is derived from ‘safra’  the Arabic word for copper.

A friendly copper merchant at the Al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

A friendly copper merchant at the Al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

The copper market is lined with shops which are stuffed to the rafters with every sort of copperware imaginable. The friendly merchants will do their best to ensure you don’t leave empty-handed!

An Aladdin's Cave of copperware at the Baghdad copper market.

An Aladdin’s Cave of copperware at the Baghdad copper market.

While it can be difficult to locate in the rabbit-warren of chaotic alleyways which comprises the sprawling Baghdad souk, the copper market occupies a 500-metre-long souk which is a short walk from the Madrassa al-Mustansiri­ya and Al-Mutanabi street – the famous street of the book sellers.

An artisan, engraving a copper platter at the Al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

An artisan, engraving a copper platter at the Al-Safafeer copper market in Baghdad.

Mustansiriya Madrasah

A view of the main entrance to the Mustansiriya Madrasah.

A view of the main entrance to the Mustansiriya Madrasah.

A short stroll along the banks of the Tigris River from the copper market, a hidden entrance leads you into another world – a tranquil oasis in the middle of the bustling souk.

The beautiful Mustansiriya Madrasah was established in 1227 CE, on the banks of the Tigris River, as a learning centre.

The courtyard of the 13th-century Mustansiriya Madrasah in central Baghdad.

The courtyard of the 13th-century Mustansiriya Madrasah in central Baghdad.

The Madrasa taught many different subjects, including medicine, math, literature, grammar, philosophy, and Islamic religious studies. However, the major focus of education was Islamic law.

A view of the Mustansiriya Madrasah, a former Islamic centre of learning.

A view of the Mustansiriya Madrasah, a former Islamic centre of learning.

The Madrasah has seen many ups and downs during its history, including being sacked by Genghis Khan during his invasion of Baghdad in 1258.

The Mustansiriya Madrasah, which is slowly being restored, features the most beautiful of Islamic architecture.

The Mustansiriya Madrasah, which is slowly being restored, features the most beautiful of Islamic architecture.

Today, this historic complex is slowly being restored.

At the time of my visit, I had the entire complex to myself – an oasis of calm! A good time to visit is during the call-to-prayer, which rings out over the entire complex from the adjacent mosque.


Access:  Open during daylight hours, the madrasah is located on the banks of the Tigris River, alongside the Al-Shuhada Bridge.

Like everywhere else in Iraq, entrance tickets cost IQD5,000.


Babylon

The very garish Ishtar Gate, the main entrance to ancient Babylon, is a modern reproduction, built under the orders of Saddam Hussein.

The very garish Ishtar Gate, the main entrance to ancient Babylon, is a modern reproduction, built under the orders of Saddam Hussein.

Ancient Babylon

The modern walls of ancient Babylon were constructed in the 1980's under orders from Saddam Hussein.

The modern walls of ancient Babylon were constructed in the 1980’s under orders from Saddam Hussein.

Babylon, or Babel, is one of the most famous cities of antiquity and was considered one of the world’s greatest cities from the 18th to the 6th Century BCE.

Babylon served as the capital of southern Mesopotamia and Assyria (Northern Iraq) from the 2nd millennium to the 1st millennium BCE and later as the capital of the Neo-Babylonian empire in the 7th and 6th Centuries BCE. It was occupied by Alexander the Great in the 4th Century BCE

From the Tower of Babel to the Hanging Gardens, the grandeur and spender of Babylon has provided humanity with plenty of stories and myths.

The walls of Babylon were reconstructed by Saddam Hussein in the 1980's.

The walls of Babylon were reconstructed by Saddam Hussein in the 1980’s.

The city reached the height of its splendour during the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, the second king of the Neo-Babylonian Empire. He reigned from 605 BC to his death in 562 BC. Historically known as Nebuchadnezzar the Great, he is regarded as the empire’s greatest king.

Nebuchadrezzar’s Babylon was the largest city in the world, covering about 10 square km (4 square miles), the first city in the world to have a population in excess of 200,000 inhabitants.

The Euphrates, which has since shifted its course, once flowed through the centre of the city. In its heyday, Babylon was considered the capital of the known world.

The labyrinth, which Nebuchadnezzar had built around his palace, can be clearly seen here.

The labyrinth, which Nebuchadnezzar had built around his palace, can be clearly seen here.

One interesting aspect of Babylon is the walled labyrinth which Nebuchadnezzar had built around his palace. A very effective security system, which made it impossible for would-be attackers to reach the palace.

A view from inside the labyrinth which surrounds the palace of Nebuchadnezzar II at Babylon.

A view from inside the labyrinth which surrounds the palace of Nebuchadnezzar II at Babylon.

As you walk through the labyrinth, corridors narrow, eventually reaching dead-ends. You then have to find your way back to your starting point which is very difficult. Very clever!

During his rule, Saddam Hussein became obsessed with Nebuchadnezzar, who is notorious for waging bloody wars to seize large swaths of current-day Iran and Israel.

Saddam saw himself as a modern reincarnation of Nebuchadnezzar, and to prove it, he spent millions building a massive reconstruction of Babylon – an ill-conceived project which has forever damaged the sight.

The walls of Babylon were reconstructed by Saddam Hussein in the 1980's.

The walls of Babylon were reconstructed by Saddam Hussein in the 1980’s.

During the 1980’s, while the Iran-Iraq War was being fought, Saddam ordered new, higher walls to be built over the top of the original walls.

In the above image, you can see the original walls which are about 1-2 metres in height, with the newer, neater, walls from the 1980’s built over the top.

The walls of Babylon were reconstructed by Saddam Hussein in the 1980's.

Modern bricks at Babylon which have been stamped with Saddam Hussein’s name.

When archaeologists told Saddam that ancient kings had stamped their names on Babylon’s bricks, Saddam insisted that his own name be stamped on the bricks used in the reconstruction.

Bricks laid during the reconstruction bear Arabic script which translates as:

‘In the reign of the victorious Saddam Hussein, the president of the Republic, may God keep him, the guardian of the great Iraq and the renovator of its renaissance and the builder of its great civilization, the rebuilding of the great city of Babylon was done in 1987.”

As part of the strengthening of the city’s defensive walls, each ruler of Babylon increased the height of the walls. Saddam decided to out-do them all by ordering the new walls to be built to an improbable height of 11.5m (38ft).

An ancient brick at Babylon, which has been stamped with the name of a former ruler.

An ancient brick at Babylon, which has been stamped with the name of a former ruler.

Today, these towering walls overlook empty, dusty courtyards. During my visit the temperature was around 50 degrees Celsius, with the walls at least providing some shady relief from the blistering heat.

Saddam clearly saw Babylon as a personal Disneyland, with the tackiness reaching its zenith with the reconstructed Ishtar Gate, the main access point which is the first stop for all visitors.

A map at Babylon, showing the ancient cities of Iraq.

A map at Babylon, showing the ancient cities of Iraq.

Today, Babylon is open for tourists with one of the government guides being a lifetime resident of the area.

He told me his entire village was evicted from their hilltop location in the 1990’s, when Saddam decided the hill would be the perfect location for his Babylon Palace (see next section).


Access: 

Located on the Euphrates River, 88 km (55 miles) south of Baghdad via a fast highway, Babylon lies on the outskirts of the modern city of Al-Hillah.

If you’re travelling from Baghdad via shared taxi, you should take a taxi to ‘Hillah‘ (IQD???). From Hillah, Babylon is a 10-minute drive.

There are no services (restaurants, shops, cafes etc) at Babylon. In the blistering heat, you should ensure you are carrying lots of water.  

Entrance tickets cost IQD25,000!


Saddam’s Babylon Palace

Built in the style of a Ziggurat, Saddam Hussein’s palace overlooks the ruins of Babylon.

Built in the style of a Ziggurat, Saddam Hussein’s palace overlooks the ruins of Babylon.

During his reign, it’s estimated that Saddam Hussein had 100 palaces constructed throughout Iraq. One of the most important was his palace at Babylon

A view of ancient Babylon from Saddam Hussein's palace complex.

A view of ancient Babylon from Saddam Hussein’s palace complex.

The palace, which is modelled on an ancient Ziggurat (a Mesopotamian, rectangular stepped tower) was built on a hill which lies adjacent to the ancient city.

A view of the Euphrates, and an extensive date palmerie, from the balcony of Saddam Hussein's palace in Babylon.

A view of the Euphrates, and an extensive date palmerie, from the balcony of Saddam Hussein’s palace in Babylon.

As he considered himself to be ‘above’ all other rulers of Iraq – both ancient and modern – he saw it as fitting that his palace should be built on higher ground, so he could look down upon Babylon!

The front of Saddam Hussein's Babylon palace - one of more than 100 palaces he built across Iraq.

The front of Saddam Hussein’s Babylon palace – one of more than 100 palaces he built across Iraq.

The palace, which was built during the economic embargo in the wake of the 1st Gulf War (1991), required the eviction of an entire village.

A palace door lintel features a bust of Saddam Hussein in an ancient, Babylonian, setting.

A palace door lintel features a bust of Saddam Hussein in an ancient, Babylonian, setting.

One of these villagers is currently working as a guide at Babylon and is full of interesting stories from the time of Saddam.

A view of one of the many rooms of the palace, all of which feature marble floors.

A view of one of the many rooms of the palace, all of which feature marble floors.

The many rooms of the palace, which today lay in ruin, feature marble floors, timber panelling and broken chandeliers. Anything that could have been looted was removed years ago.

A former dining hall, with marble-mosaic floors, and walls covered in graffiti, inside Saddam's Babylon Palace.

A former dining hall, with marble-mosaic floors, and walls covered in graffiti, inside Saddam’s Babylon Palace.

During the 2nd Gulf War, from 2003 to 2011, U.S. and Polish forces used the palace as their headquarters and did not allow citizens to visit it.

The former bedroom of Saddam Hussein, who reportedly stayed in the palace on just one occasion.

The former bedroom of Saddam Hussein, who reportedly stayed in the palace on just one occasion.

After 2011, Iraqis were finally given access to the palace, which today is open to the elements and in a state of slow decay.

A former, marble-clad, bathroom is now covered in graffiti.

A former, marble-clad, bathroom is now covered in graffiti.

The graffiti-covered walls bear testament to the many visitors who have passed through the palace since 2003, with English, Polish and Arabic graffiti to be found throughout.

One piece of artwork which remains untouched is a ceiling fresco which lies in the centre of the throne room. This fresco features scenes from Babylon and the other ancient cities of Mesopotamia.

A view of the throne room at Saddam Hussein's Babylon palace.

A view of the throne room at Saddam Hussein’s Babylon palace.

It is rumoured that Saddam Hussein came to the palace, which reportedly took four years to build, only once. A special access road was built for him, which was also used just once!

A view of the former palace swimming pool from the master bedroom.

A view of the former palace swimming pool from the master bedroom.

The exterior walls of the palace feature are engraved with the initials of Saddam Hussein in Arab script.

The arabesque initials of Saddam Hussein line the exterior walls of the palace.

The arabesque initials of Saddam Hussein line the exterior walls of the palace.

Samarra

Located 95 km (60 miles) north of Baghdad, Samarra is an ancient city which is home to a number of important sights, including the Great Mosque of Samarra and the Al-Askari Shrine, one of the holiest sites for Shiite Muslims.

Samarra served as the second capital of the Abbasid Caliphate after Baghdad, ruling over the provinces of the Abbasid Empire which extended from Tunisia to Central Asia.


Despite its close proximity to Baghdad, the journey to/ from Samarra can take more than 2 hours due to the woeful condition of National Highway #1. A poorly maintained highway which is highly congested, improvement works are currently being performed.

I travelled to Samarra, with my guide Fahad, in a shared taxi.

During the journey, a small KIA truck lost two of its rear tyres while travelling, at speed, in the opposite direction.

These rogue, out-of-control, tyres came flying across the highway and slammed into the front of our taxi, completely destroying all of the front panels.

Luckily, there was no damage to the engine and no one was injured. I was sitting in the front passenger seat and watched it all, in what seemed like slow motion.

Our damaged taxi, after it was slammed by two runaway tyres.

Our damaged taxi, after it was slammed by two runaway tyres.

In a country where no one has insurance, the process of compensation is that the driver at fault must make a cash payment to the victim before leaving the scene. The driver of the truck agreed to pay the equivalent of US$150, which was the amount the taxi driver claimed would be required to replace the damaged panels.

The rouge tyres of course didn’t just hit our taxi. Also standing in line, waiting to make their claims, were two other drivers whose cars had been damaged.

Hopefully the truck driver had deep pockets!


Great Mosque of Samarra

A highlight of Samarra is the iconic Malwiya (Arabic for "twisted") Minaret.

A highlight of Samarra is the iconic Malwiya (Arabic for “twisted”) Minaret.

Located close to the banks of the Tigris River, the Great Mosque of Samarra was built in the 9th century, on the orders of the Abbasid caliph Al-Mutawakkil, who moved to Samarra to escape conflict with the local population in Baghdad.

A view of the former Great Mosque of Samarra, once the largest mosque in the world, from the top of the adjacent minaret.

A view of the former Great Mosque of Samarra, once the largest mosque in the world, from the top of the adjacent minaret.

Al-Mutawakkil remained in Samarra for the next 56 years, where he built many palaces and the largest mosque in all of Islam. The Great Mosque remained the largest mosque in the world for the next 400 years before it was destroyed by the armies of the Mongol ruler Hulagu Khan in 1278 CE.

The Malwiya minaret is featured on the back of the IQD250 banknote.

The Malwiya minaret is featured on the back of the IQD250 banknote.

The outer walls and the imposing 52-metre-high minaret is all that remains of this once ‘Great Mosque’.

The mosque has a rectangular layout encompassed by an outer brick wall, 10 m high and 2.65 m thick, and supported by a total of 44 semi-circular towers.

A group of Iraqi tourists, descending the Malwiya minaret at Samarra.

A group of Iraqi tourists, descending the Malwiya minaret at Samarra.

Adjacent to the mosque stands the Malwiya minaret with its vast spiralling cone 52 m high and 33 m wide at the base.

At the top of the tower rests a round vestibule, which is adorned with eight pointed-arched niches.

It is possible to walk all the way to the top along the spiralling path – a challenge for anyone who suffers from vertigo. The desert winds towards the top of the tower can become fierce and, at times, seem determined to blow you off the tower.

An intrepid Thai traveller, and his Iraqi guide, waving from the Malwiya minaret.

An intrepid Thai traveller, and his Iraqi guide, waving from the Malwiya minaret.

It is rumoured that the caliph, Al-Mutawakkil, liked to ride his donkey to the top of the tower to enjoy the view.

The minaret was partially destroyed in April 2005, when insurgents bombed the tower because US troops had been using it as a lookout position.

The Samarra Archaeological City was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007.

Al-Askari Shrine

A view of the main dome, and shrine, at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

A view of the main dome, and shrine, at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Samarra is also home to the dazzling Al-Askari Shrine, one of the holy shrines for Shia Muslims, who come in their millions each year to pray at the holy shrine.

A view of the main dome, and shrine, at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

A view of the main dome, and shrine, at the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

The shrine contains the mausoleums of two Imams – Ali al-Hadi and Hasan al-Askari, the tenth and eleventh Shia Imams, respectively.

The truly dazzling interior of the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

The truly dazzling interior of the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

It is also the site from where Muhammad al-Mahdi, known as the “Hidden Imam“, reportedly went into the Occultation as per Shia belief.

A view of the main dome, which covers the shrine inside the Al-Askari Shrine.

A view of the main dome, which covers the shrine inside the Al-Askari Shrine.

The Shia believe that Muhammad al-Mahdi will one day re-appear as a messiah and bring salvation to Shiite believers.

An incredible sight, the lavish shrine inside the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

An incredible sight, the lavish shrine inside the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Due to this, the Al-Askari Shrine is an important pilgrimage centre for Shias, drawing millions of Shia pilgrims each year, especially from Iran and Iraq.

Worshippers, relaxing on the carpeted floor of the air-conditioned Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Worshippers, relaxing on the carpeted floor of the air-conditioned Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

Aware of its importance to the Shia, in 2006, al-Qaeda bombed the mosque, destroying its resplendent central golden dome.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Al-Askari Shrine in Samarra.

A year later, ISIS, who were born out of al-Qaeda targeted the mosque again in a 2nd bombing which had the sinister aim of plunging Iraq into a new civil war. Predictably, violence ensued!

Detail of one of the many domes inside the Al-Askari Shrine.

Detail of one of the many domes inside the Al-Askari Shrine.

Today, peace is kept in Samarra by the presence of a local militia, who ensure anyone entering town is registered. All vehicles are inspected to ensure weapons do not enter Samarra.

Shia pilgrims, outside the Al-Askari Mosque in Samarra, with the newly rebuilt golden dome in the background.

Shia pilgrims, outside the Al-Askari Mosque in Samarra, with the newly rebuilt golden dome in the background.

Karbala

Imam Hussain Holy Shrine

Each year, millions of Shia pilgrims visit the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

Each year, millions of Shia pilgrims visit the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

One of two holy sites located in the centre of Karbala, the Imam Hussain Shrine is the mosque and burial site of Hussain ibn Ali, the third Imam of Shia Islam.

One of the many entrances to the very crowded Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

One of the many entrances to the very crowded Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

Imam Hussain, who was a grandson of Muhammad, was buried at this location in 680 CE, following the battle of Karbala. The city of Karbala grew around the burial site.

Details of an entrance portal at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

Details of an entrance portal at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

The tomb of Hussain is one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam, outside of Mecca and Medina, and many make pilgrimages to the site.

Every year, millions of pilgrims visit the city to observe Ashura, which marks the commemoration of Hussain’s death for all Muslims.

A view of the busy mosque at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

A view of the busy mosque at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

Security

Due to a number of suicide bombings (2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010), security around the whole centre of Karbala is very tight with everyone required to pass through airport-style security.

Vehicles are excluded from an area of about 1 km in radius around the shrines.

No large cameras or bags of any sort are allowed inside the mosque. There are lockers where such items can be stored. The only thing you can take inside the mosque is a smart phone, which can be used for photography.

Moving through the vast mosque at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

Moving through the vast mosque at the Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala.

A 200-metre-long covered walkway links the shrine to the nearby Al Abbas Holy Shrine.

Al Abbas Holy Shrine

Dazzling in its beauty, the mausoleum of Abbas ibn Ali is the centrepiece of the Al-Abbas Shrine in Karbala.

Dazzling in its beauty, the mausoleum of Abbas ibn Ali is the centrepiece of the Al-Abbas Shrine in Karbala.

Located just 200 metres from the Imam Hussain Holy Shrine, the Al-Abbas Shrine is a mosque and mausoleum of Abbas ibn Ali – an especially holy place for Shia Muslims.

Worshippers praying at the shrine of Abbas ibn Ali.

Worshippers praying at the shrine of Abbas ibn Ali.

Abbas was the son of Ali ibn Abi Talib and the half-brother of Imam Hasan and Imam Hussain. In 680 CE, Al-Abbas was buried at this location.

The shrine is revered by Shia Muslims, who visit it in their millions each year.

The Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.

The Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.

Security

Due to past suicide bombings which occurred in 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008, security around the shrines is very tight. The whole of downtown Karbala is locked down behind a security cordon which restricts the entry of unauthorised vehicles and requires all pedestrians to pass through airport-style security screening.

Entering the inner-sanctuary at the al-Abbas shrine in Karbala.

Entering the inner-sanctuary at the al-Abbas shrine in Karbala.

If you’re staying in Karbala, I advise you to book a hotel away from the centre, unless you wish to walk 1-2 km with your luggage. Most taxis are not authorised to enter the security zone. See the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details.

Worshippers at the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.

Worshippers at the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.

Photography

You cannot enter the shrines with large cameras or any type of luggage, bags etc. Everything must be placed in a locker.

You are able to carry a mobile phone for recording purposes.

The shrines are full of pilgrims taking selfies.

One of the gold-plated entrances to the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.

One of the gold-plated entrances to the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas in Karbala.


Video: I filmed this video outside the al-Abbas shrine which shows a procession of self-flagellating pilgrims.

 

 

The atmosphere inside and outside the Al-Abbas Shrine is especially charged thanks to the continuous holy processions which first start outside the mosque, then pass through it, before exiting again.


Video: I filmed this video inside the al-Abbas shrine which shows one of the many pilgrim processions which pass through the shrine.

The atmosphere inside the mosque as the noisy, energetic parades pass through has to be experienced first-hand. Truly amazing!

Self-flagellation is a popular way for devotees to show they share the suffering of Ali. Most processions feature loud pray music, lots of flagellation and the waving of Shia flags, some of which bear images of Ali.

 


 

Gold-plated bricks at the entrance to the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas.

Gold-plated bricks at the entrance to the Holy Shrine of al-Abbas.

Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir

The Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir looms large in its remote desert setting, 50 km from Karbala.

The Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir looms large in its remote desert setting, 50 km from Karbala.

Standing in splendid isolation in a remote desert setting, 50 km from Karbala, alongside the highway which links Iraq to Saudi Arabia, is the incredibly imposing Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir.

The outer, 17-metre-high, defensive walls of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress are constructed from limestone slabs.

The outer, 17-metre-high, defensive walls of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress are constructed from limestone slabs.

Featured on the back of the IQD5,000 banknote, the fortress was erected in 775 CE by the Abbasids and is especially notable for its many architectural innovations.

Al-Ukhaidir Fortress is featured on the IQD5,000 banknote.

Al-Ukhaidir Fortress is featured on the IQD5,000 banknote.

Surrounded by a continuous, 17-metre-high limestone wall, the fortress measures 176-metres in length and 146-metres in width.

The centre of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress is occupied by the court of honour (right side).

The centre of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress is occupied by the court of honour (right side).

The fortress was built on an ancient trade route which connected Iraq with the outside world. Contained within the walls are a main hall, court of honour, a mosque, and a large Iwan (i.e. a courtyard surrounded by multi-level, arched, walls).

Views of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, which showcases Abbasid archaeological innovation.

Views of Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, which showcases Abbasid archaeological innovation.

Along this route, there were many constructions, which were important stations for travellers and caravans. The fortress functioned as a military post and a Caravanserai, being able to accommodate teams of traders and their camels.

An ideal movie set, waiting to be discovered by Hollywood.

An ideal movie set, waiting to be discovered by Hollywood.

The fortress, which is also classed as a palace, is unique in its architectural wealth that incorporates some of the key innovations of the time – innovations that greatly impacted the development of Muslim as well as non-Muslim architecture.

The first of its kind, a fluted-dome at the Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir.

The first of its kind, a fluted-dome at the Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir.

Because of its wealth of architectural innovation, the fortress has, over the years, attracted much academic interest, particularly from German, French and British archaeologists and architects.

The 'Iwan' at Al-Ukhaidir Fortress.

The ‘Iwan’ at Al-Ukhaidir Fortress.

Excavations at Al-Ukhaidir were first conducted in the early 20th century by English archaeologist, Gertrude Bell, who wrote the first major report on the remains.

The vault of the mosque portico, showing the innovative, flattened, decorative arches.

The vault of the mosque portico, showing the innovative, flattened, decorative arches.

A highlight of the Al-Ukhaidir fortress are the decorated arches of the mosque portico which glow in the afternoon light.

The decorated arches of the mosque portico at Al-Ukhaidir fortress.

The decorated arches of the mosque portico at Al-Ukhaidir fortress.

Oozing loads of desert charm, Al-Ukhaidir fortress is an ideal film set, just waiting to be discovered by a Hollywood director!

With its neutral tones and magical lighting, the Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir is a photographer's dream.

With its neutral tones and magical lighting, the Fortress of Al-Ukhaidir is a photographer’s dream.


Access

Getting There: A private taxi from Karbala cost me IQD40,000 for the return trip.

There are no transport options from the fortress so the driver waited for us.

Actually – our driver joined us as we toured the fortress and was very keen to take selfies with me in different locations! It was another wonderful memory of Iraq and the Iraqis. 

Tickets: Entry to the fortress cost IQD25,000 (for foreigners) which is the standard price of admission to most sights in Iraq.


Najaf

Najaf is located 165 km southwest of Baghdad and 77 km southeast of Karbala. It is home to the Imam Ali Shrine, one of the holiest sites for Shia Muslims. The shrine attracts around 8 million pilgrims per year, mainly from Iran.

Najaf is widely considered amongst the holiest cities of Shia Islam and one of its spiritual capitals. A city of 1,000,000 inhabitants, Najaf developed around the Imam Ali Shrine, which lies at its centre and is surrounded by a tight rabbit-warren of laneways which is the Najaf souk.

Selecting material for a new shirt from a tailor in Najaf souk.

Selecting material for a new shirt from a tailor in Najaf souk.

While in Najaf, I had a new shirt made by one of the many tailors inside the souk. Using fine cotton from Turkey, my shirt was made in 24 hours and cost about US$15.


Tip:

If you wish to fly from Iraq to Iran, or vice versa, you’ll find a good choice of airlines providing connections between Najaf and most cities in Iran. Shia pilgrims from Iran arrive in Najaf by the planeload!  

Iraqi VOA’s (Visa-on-Arrival) are available at Najaf airport – please refer to the ‘Visa Requirements‘ and ‘Getting There‘ sections below for more details.


Imam Ali Shrine

The shrine of Imam Ali, contains the tomb of Ali ibn Abi Talib. He was a cousin of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and later became his son-in-law.

The shrine of Imam Ali, contains the tomb of Ali ibn Abi Talib. He was a cousin of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and later became his son-in-law.

A truly opulent and dazzling sight – the Imam Ali Shrine, also known as the Mosque of Ali, draws around 8 million Shi’ite pilgrims each year to the city of Najaf.

A view of the opulent interior of the Imam Ali Shrine, a highlight of Najaf.

A view of the opulent interior of the Imam Ali Shrine, a highlight of Najaf.

Shia Muslims believe the shrine contains the tomb of Ali ibn Abi Talib, a cousin of the Islamic prophet Muhammad who later became his son-in-law. The Shias consider Ali as their first Imam.

Pilgrims at the Shrine of Imam Ali.

Pilgrims at the Shrine of Imam Ali.

According to Shi’ite belief, buried next to Ali within this mosque are the remains of Adam and Noah (he of the ark).

The interior of the Imam Ali Shrine features large prayer halls, carpeted with the finest of Iranian silk carpets.

The interior of the Imam Ali Shrine features large prayer halls, carpeted with the finest of Iranian silk carpets.

For all Muslims, including the Shia, the four holiest sites in Islam are Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia, the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem and the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus.

The Shrine of Imam Ali attracts around 8 million pilgrims each year.

The Shrine of Imam Ali attracts around 8 million pilgrims each year.

Of the holy sites accepted by Shia Muslims, the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf is considered the holiest. 

A truly dazzling sight and a photographer's dream.

A truly dazzling sight and a photographer’s dream.

The original shrine to Imam Ali was built on the site in 786 CE and has been enhanced through the ages by a list of who’s who.

The interior of the Imam Ali Shrine is truly opulent.

The interior of the Imam Ali Shrine is truly opulent.

The renown Moroccan traveller and explorer, Ibn Battuta (who travelled more widely than Marco Polo but received much less publicity), visited the shrine in 1326 CE and commented on its opulence in his travel dairies.

Interior view of the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf - a spectacular sight.

Interior view of the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf – a spectacular sight.

The famed conqueror Timur (aka Tamerlane), who founded the Timurid Empire in Central Asia, ordered the restoration of the shrine after a fire destroyed it in 1354 CE.

Entering the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf.

Entering the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf.

Suleiman the Magnificent, the longest-reigning Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, offered substantial gifts to the shrine during a visit in 1534.

A view of the golden dome and golden minarets of the Shrine of Imam Ali in Najaf.

A view of the golden dome and golden minarets of the Shrine of Imam Ali in Najaf.

The mosque is famous for its large golden dome, which is covered in 7,777 gold-covered bricks. The dome is flanked by twin 38 m (125 ft) tall minarets, also covered in golden bricks. A truly impressive sight!

The entire front of the Shrine of Iman Ali is covered in gold-plated bricks.

The entire front of the Shrine of Iman Ali is covered in gold-plated bricks.

Wadi Al-Salam Cemetery

The World's largest cemetery, Wadi Al Salam in Najaf, the resting place of 6 million souls.

The World’s largest cemetery, Wadi Al Salam in Najaf, the resting place of 6 million souls.

Wadi-al-Salaam (‘Valley of Peace’) has the distinction of being the largest cemetery in the world, covering 6 km2 (2.32 square miles). It is the final resting place of 6 million bodies and continues to grow each day.

The cemetery is located a short walk from the Imam Ali Holy Shrine, thus, many Shi’ites in Iraq request that they be buried in this cemetery, so that they are close to Ali. It is believed that being close to Ali will aid one’s journey to heaven.

Kufa

Once a town in its own right, Kufa is now another suburb of the much larger, sprawling Najaf. The sights of Kufa can be reached by taxi from downtown Najaf.

Grand Mosque of Kufa

A view of the central dome, and the Shrine of Hani ibn Urwa, at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

A view of the central dome, and the Shrine of Hani ibn Urwa, at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

Located on the outskirts of Najaf, in the city of Kufa, the Great Mosque of Kufa is one of the earliest and holiest surviving mosques in the world.

A view of the central courtyard and the two, fully tiled, minarets at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

A view of the central courtyard and the two, fully tiled, minarets at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

Built in the 7th century, the mosque was home to Ali ibn Abi Talib, and contains the holy shrine of Muslim Bin Aqeel, his companion Hani ibn Urwa; and the revolutionary, Al-Mukhtar.

The mosque is an important stop for visiting Shia pilgrims, although it’s nowhere near as busy as the headline shrines in Najaf and Karbala.

The holy shrine of Muslim ibn Aqeel at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

The holy shrine of Muslim ibn Aqeel at the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

There is a legend that says the mosque was built on the site of a temple which was constructed by Adam, while another claims that Adam’s bones were buried on the site, having been carried by Noah on board the Ark.

The site is identified in Shia Islam as the place where Noah built his Ark.

A pilgrim prays at the Shrine of Muslim Bin Aqeel, inside the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

A pilgrim prays at the Shrine of Muslim Bin Aqeel, inside the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

Also housed inside the mosque is the Shrine of Al-Mukhtar, a Saudi-born revolutionary who led a rebellion against the Umayyad Caliphate in 685 and ruled over most of Iraq for eighteen months.

The Shrine of Al-Mukhtar, a revolutionary, inside the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

The Shrine of Al-Mukhtar, a revolutionary, inside the Grand Mosque of Kufa.

Al-Sahlah Mosque

The intricate, tiled, central dome of Al-Sahlah Mosque in Kufa.

The intricate, tiled, central dome of Al-Sahlah Mosque in Kufa.

The Al-Sahlah Mosque is one of the primary mosques in the city of Kufa.

The mosque is of great importance to Shia Muslims, and it is believed that it was initially established in Kufa as a neighbourhood mosque for the followers of Ali, the early members of the Shia.

The main tiled dome at Al-Sahlah Mosque is surrounded by 12 smaller tiled domes, representing the 12th Imam.

The main tiled dome at Al-Sahlah Mosque is surrounded by 12 smaller tiled domes, representing the 12th Imam.

The mosque is also said to be the future home of the 12th Shia Imam, Muhammad al-Mahdi, known as the “Hidden Imam“, who the Shia believe will return as a messiah and bring salvation to Shiite believers.

Worshippers at Al-Sahlah Mosque in Kufa, Iraq.

Worshippers at Al-Sahlah Mosque in Kufa, Iraq.

The main feature of the mosque are the elaborate tiled domes with one very large, central dome, surrounded by 12, smaller, domes – representing the 12th Imam.

Accommodation

A view of the atrium of the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

A view of the atrium of the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

There are plenty of accommodation options in Iraq, from top-end hotels to budget hostels. Two Online Travel Agents (OTA’s) which operate in Iraq are booking.com, which currently has 102 properties listed on their website, and agoda.com.


Power Outages

One noticeable aspect of life in Iraq, and Iraqi Kurdistan, are the frequent power outages. These occur on an almost hourly basis, but are normally very brief.

Almost all hotels feature lifts which come to a halt during these outages. Riding a lift anywhere in Iraq is made all the more uncertain due to the constant power outages. They do spring back to life once power is recovered. 

A potential nightmare for any visiting claustrophobes! 


Baghdad

My room in the spacious suite at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

My room in the spacious suite at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

While in Baghdad, I stayed at the highly recommended Andalus Hotel Suites where a standard room costs US$75 per night, which includes an excellent buffet breakfast, which is served in their rooftop restaurant.

An ideal workspace while in Baghdad - the living room of my suite at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

An ideal workspace while in Baghdad – the living room of my suite at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

Slightly discounted rates are offered through booking.com.

During my 10 days at the hotel, I stayed in one of their suites and one of their standard rooms. I have included photos of both room types. The 2-bedroom suites are ideal for families or friends travelling together. Very spacious!

My cosy 'standard' room at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

My cosy ‘standard’ room at the Andalus Hotel Suites in Baghdad.

While the rooms are super comfortable, the highlight of the hotel is the rooftop restaurant which serves the most amazing Iraqi & Western food with a view over the Tigris River.

It is especially popular with locals who come to dine in the evenings, while enjoying sunset views over the river.

The hotel is managed by the highly capable, professional and welcoming Mr Khaled Allouzi, a Jordanian native who has worked extensively in hotels throughout the Middle East.

Very attentive, Khaled is THE consummate host, ensuring guests are made to feel welcome, and enjoy their stay while at the Andalus Hotel.


Tip: Baghdad can be used as a base for day trips to Samarra, Babylon, Najaf and Karbala, all of which lie about one hour away by shared taxi. 


Karbala

The lobby of the Dur Kassir Alkadhimiya Hotel in Karbala.

The lobby of the Dur Kassir Alkadhimiya Hotel in Karbala.


Note: An important consideration when booking hotels in Karbala is that the entire downtown area is enclosed behind a security cordon and is closed to all, but authorised, traffic.

It’s best not to book hotels in the centre of Karbala since most taxis are not authorised to enter the security zone – even though many hotels are located inside the zone.

The security zone is a circle, which is about 1 km in radius, with the two holy shrines at its centre. With my taxi unable to enter the zone, I had to walk the last 1 km to my hotel in the midday heat, when the mercury was peaking at around 50 degrees Celsius!  

Not recommended if you are lugging all your bags! 


Inside the Security Zone

While in Karbala, I stayed at the centrally located Dur Kassir Alkadhimiya Hotel which is inside the security zone. Comfortable rooms cost around USD$80 per night, which includes a typical Iraqi buffet breakfast. The hotel is located a short walk from the two holy shrines and is the preferred accommodation choice for visiting pilgrims.

There are no tourists in Karbala – but there are thousands of pilgrims. During my stay at the hotel, and in Karbala generally, everyone assumed I was on pilgrimage and as such, I was always referred to as ‘Hajji‘, an honorific title which refers to anyone on pilgrimage.

While the Dur Kassir Alkadhimiya is a comfortable hotel, with friendly staff providing a good level of service, it is much easier, and more convenient, to stay elsewhere, outside the security zone, especially if you like to arrive at your hotel in a taxi.

When departing from Dur Kassir Alkadhimiya, reception staff organised for an authorised taxi driver to collect me directly from the hotel.

Outside the Security Zone

Two hotels which are outside the security zone are the Reyhan Karbalaa Hotel (rooms from USD$80 per night) or the Baron Hotel (rooms from USD$120 per night), both of which can be booked through booking.com

Najaf

My room at the Barada Hotel in Najaf.

My room at the Barada Hotel in Najaf.

Like nearby Karbala, the centre of Najaf, or An-Najaf, is enclosed inside a security zone. However, unlike Karbala, the much smaller security zone includes just the Imam Ali Holy Shrine and the surrounding souk. All hotels in Najaf are outside the zone and hence, can be reached by taxi.

While in Najaf, I chose to stay at the very good Barada Hotel where rooms, which can be booked on booking.com, cost around USD$70 per night. The rate includes the usual, Iraqi-style, buffet breakfast which is served in the rooftop restaurant.

The hotel is located opposite the only mall in town, Najaf City Mall, and next to the excellent Maram café, which serves proper Barista coffee with artisan donuts (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more on this cafe).

Eating Out

A vendor at Najaf souk, selling trays of sweet and delicious 'Halva Dehin', a speciality of Najaf.

A vendor at Najaf souk, selling trays of sweet and delicious ‘Halva Dehin’, a speciality of Najaf.

Like Iraqi Kurdistan, the cuisine of Iraq is the same as that found throughout the region – lots of kebabs, and other grilled meats, served with freshly baked Khubz (flatbread), pickled vegetables and salad.

Sharing a typical Iraqi lunch of rice and goat with Fahad and his uncle in a restaurant in Hillah.

Sharing a typical Iraqi lunch of rice and goat with Fahad and his uncle in a restaurant in Hillah.

Lunch is the main meal of the day and, in a typical Iraqi restaurant, families and friends gather around low tables, sitting on the floor, eating from communal plates which feature an abundance of pilaf rice, roasted meats such as goat, chicken, lamb and plenty of khubz.

Iraqis eat, using their right hand, from the same communal plate. For foreigners, a plate with utensils will normally be provided.

A typical Iraqi breakfast.

A typical Iraqi breakfast.

Popular breakfast items include boiled eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, freshly made local yoghurt, goat’s cheese with is always served with freshly baked khubz.


Khubz tannour (flatbread)

What rice is to the Asians, Khubz (flatbread) is to the Iraqis – a staple which is served, always freshly baked, at all meals.

Most bakeries in Iraq bake their Khubz using traditional tandoor ovens, known locally as tannour. The bread spends less than one minute inside the oven before its ready to serve!

The following video was taken in a bakery in Sulaimaniyah, where the baker’s worked non-stop, throughout the day, producing a mountain of Khubz.

The finished bread is always laid out on a table at the front of the bakery and disappears as quickly as it’s produced – snapped up by hungry locals.


Restaurants/ Cafés

Baghdad Restaurants

The covered, air-conditioned, "Restaurant Street" inside Baghdad Mall.

The covered, air-conditioned, “Restaurant Street” inside Baghdad Mall.

Iraqis love to eat, and as such, you’ll find dining options on almost every street corner.

A popular dining venue in Baghdad is the covered “Restaurant Street” which is located inside Baghdad Mall. Fully air-conditioned, this cluster of restaurants, which serve regional cuisine, offer respite from the sweltering heat outside.

Watermelon juice served with flair at the rooftop restaurant at the Andalus hotel.

Watermelon juice served with flair at the rooftop restaurant at the Andalus hotel.

One of my favourite options, was the rooftop restaurant at the Andalus hotel in Baghdad (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more on this hotel). It was especially handy since I was staying at the hotel!

Offering views over the Tigris River, this is a favourite dining option for Iraqis who can pay a little more for a finer dining experience. The menu features both local and international cuisine.

Each evening, I would order a juice which was always presented differently but always with lots of flair! Highly recommended!

Baghdad Café

The popular Shabandar café, in Baghdad old town, was once devastated by a car bomb.

The popular Shabandar café, in Baghdad old town, was once devastated by a car bomb.

Located on Al-Mutanabbi Street, the heart and soul of Baghdad’s intellectual and cultural community for centuries, the landmark Shabandar café has been serving the writers and intellectuals of Baghdad, and plenty of thirsty tourists, for more than a century.

While it’s calm today, it hasn’t always been the case. In March of 2007, a huge car-bomb suicide attack destroyed the entire neighbourhood. As the car was parked outside the café, the entire building was destroyed.

The elderly owner, Al-Hajj Muhammad Al-Khashali, who still today, sits behind the counter collecting payments for cups of sweet tea, lost four of his sons the moment the bomb exploded!

While others would have given up, he was determined to rebuild the café and not let the terrorists claim victory!

The story of the rebirth of the Shabandar café is a story of modern Iraq, and the determination of Iraqis to rebuild their country in the aftermath of decades of bloody war and acts of terrorism!

Karbala Restaurant

A popular dining option for locals in Karbala is Khan Mandi restaurant, which serves shared platters of fluffy pilaf rice with your choice of protein.

A local chain of sorts, Khan Mandi operates three branches in Iraq – Baghdad, Hillah and Karbala.

Karbala Café

The wonderfully pleasant Caramel Cafe in Karbala is owned by an Iraqi family who spent many years living in Sydney, Australia.

The wonderfully pleasant Caramel Cafe in Karbala is owned by an Iraqi family who spent many years living in Sydney, Australia.

While looking for a caffeine fix one day in Karbala, I stumbled upon the very modern, clean and pleasant Caramel Café on Sinatra street – the street with all the good restaurants and cafes, which is the located in a fancier part of town.

I was surprised to be greeted by the friendly owner, Jawad, who spoke English with an Australian accent.

With Jawad, outside his family's business - Caramel Café, in Karbala.

With Jawad, outside his family’s business – Caramel Café, in Karbala.

It turned out that Jawad and his family had spent 10 years living in Liverpool, Sydney. The family were forced to flee Iraq after Saddam Hussein expelled them, and many Shias, from Iraq.

He thanked me, and Australia, for providing his family with the opportunity to live a normal life, in a country where their human rights were respected. He was most grateful for the opportunity to spend 10 years in Australia.

The mainstay of the business are sweets – lots of wonderful, sugary sweets, many of which are showcased on their Instagram page.

A Sydney-style coffee and an Iraqi classic halwa dessert at Caramel cafe in Karbala.

A Sydney-style coffee and an Iraqi classic halwa dessert at Caramel cafe in Karbala.

Najaf Restaurant

Fahad and I, about to enjoy a lunch of Kima in Najaf.

Fahad and I, about to enjoy a lunch of Kima in Najaf.

While in Najaf, you should treat yourself to a lunch of Kima, a ground beef curry which is served over a mound of steamed rice.

Dig in!

Najaf Café

My pick for the best cafe in Najaf - the Maram café serves excellent Barista-made coffee.

My pick for the best cafe in Najaf – the Maram café serves excellent Barista-made coffee.

Located opposite Najaf City Mall (the only mall in town) and next to the Barada Hotel, the wonderfully pleasant Maram café serves the best barista-made coffee in Najaf.

Located next to the Barada hotel, the Maram café in Najaf serves excellent coffee.

Located next to the Barada hotel, the Maram café in Najaf serves excellent coffee.

Open until late each evening, the cafe specialises in gourmet donuts, which are freshly prepared each day.

Highly Recommended!

Bars

Bars do not exist in Iraq, although there are a limited number of bottle shops which sell alcohol.

Visa Requirements

My Iraqi Visa-on-Arrival.

My Iraqi Visa-on-Arrival.

Since the 15th of March, 2021, citizens of the following 36 countries are able to apply for a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA) at international airports and land borders – inside federal Iraq:

  • Countries that are permanent members of the UN Security Council (USA, UK, France, the Russian Federation and the People’s Republic of China)
  • European Union countries: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands
  • As well as citizens of Japan, South Korea, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Switzerland.

To check your requirements, please refer to the Visa Policy of Iraq.


Important Note Regarding the United States Visa Waiver Program

For non-U.S. passport holders, who normally travel to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP), aka ESTA, the following should be noted:

Travelers in the following categories are no longer eligible to travel or be admitted to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP):

  • Nationals of VWP countries who have travelled to or been present in Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011 (with limited exceptions for travel for diplomatic or military purposes in the service of a VWP country).
  • Nationals of VWP countries who are also nationals of Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, or Syria.

Anyone who has travelled to any of the above listed countries will need to apply for a visa from a United States embassy before being able to visit the United States.


Important:

For the purposes of immigration, Iraqi Kurdistan operates separately from federal Iraq. A visa issued in Iraqi Kurdistan is only valid for travel within Iraqi Kurdistan. However, a visa issued in federal Iraq is valid for travel everywhere in Iraq, including Iraqi Kurdistan.

You cannot travel into federal Iraq using an Iraqi Kurdistan visa.  

If you are planning to visit both Iraqi Kurdistan and federal Iraq, it is best that you make your first entry into federal Iraq since your visa is good for travel in all of Iraq, including Iraqi Kurdistan. You will only need to pay for one visa at US$77.  

If you first enter Iraq through Iraqi Kurdistan, and wish to travel into federal Iraq, you will need to fly into federal Iraq and purchase an additional Iraqi visa at US$77 – i.e. you will need to pay for two visas at US$77 each.  


Getting There

Air


Airport Security Checks

Due to the special security situation in Iraq, entering an Iraqi airport requires passing through several security checkpoints, before you even reach the terminal. Due to the time involved at each checkpoint, it’s wise to arrive at least 4 hours prior to your departure.

The following steps describe the process for accessing Najaf Airport via taxi:

1. At the airport entry gate, you stop at the first checkpoint to show your passport.

2. The taxi then proceeds to the first security check which is a sweep under the car with mirrors.

3. After this brief check, vehicles then proceed to the 3rd checkpoint where all vehicles are fully inspected. All passengers have to exit the car and assemble inside a building where they pass through security screening. All belongings are to remain in the vehicle. All doors are opened, along with the hood and the boot. Security guards and sniffer dogs inspect all vehicles. Once all vehicles have been checked, everyone returns to their vehicle. 

4. Following this check, you can finally drive to the terminal!

5. Upon arrival at the terminal, your checked baggage must be placed through an x-ray from outside the terminal.

6. You retrieve your baggage inside the terminal, after you have joined a queue, where you are required to show your passport and travel documents. These documents are required to gain entry into the terminal building.  

7. Once you have collected your bag, you are free to check in as per normal.

8. Once you are ready to pass through to the airside, you will pass through immigration and one more security check.

Bring your patience!


There are three international airports in federal Iraq:

  • Al Najaf International Airport (IATA: NJF) is served by 11 airlines which fly to 9 international destinations.
  • Baghdad International Airport (IATA: BGW) is served by 12 airlines which fly to 13 international destinations.
  • Basrah International Airport (IATA: BSR) is served by 8 airlines which fly to 7 international destinations.

There are two international airports in Iraqi Kurdistan – these are covered in my Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide.

Al Najaf International Airport

Al Najaf International Airport (IATA: NJF), which is located just 5 km from downtown Al Najaf, formerly served as a military base. Built to handle large military planes, the runway at Al Najaf is 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) long and 45 metres (148 ft) wide.

Since Al Najaf, and nearby Karbala, are important pilgrimage sites for Shia Muslim’s, many of whom arrive from Iran, there are many flights between Al Najaf and Iran.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Al Najaf International Airport:

  • Air India – flies to/from Delhi, Lucknow
  • ATA Airlines – flies to/from Ardabil, Mashhad, Tabriz, Tehran–Imam Khomeini, Urmia
  • Caspian Airlines – flies to/from Isfahan, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tehran–Imam Khomeini, Yazd
  • Fly Baghdad – flies to/from Cairo, Damascus, Hyderabad, Isfahan, Karachi, Lahore, Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • Iran Air – flies to/from Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Iran Airtour – flies to/from Bushehr, Isfahan, Mashhad, Rasht, Shiraz, Tabriz, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Iran Aseman Airlines – flies to/from Isfahan, Kermanshah, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Iraqi Airways – flies to/from Ahmedabad, Baghdad, Bahrain, Beirut, Copenhagen, Islamabad, Istanbul, Karachi, Kuwait City, Mashhad, Mumbai, Sulaimaniyah, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Jazeera Airways – flies to/from Kuwait City
  • Kam Air – flies to/from Kabul
  • Kish Air – flies to/from Gorgan, Kish, Lar, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Mahan Air – flies to/from Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Meraj Airlines – flies to/from Isfahan, Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Middle East Airlines – flies to/from Beirut
  • Pouya Air – flies to/from Gorgan, Kermanshah, Rasht, Yazd
  • Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
  • Qeshm Air – flies to/from Bandar Abbas, Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Saha Airlines – flies to/from Isfahan
  • Sepehran Airlines – flies to/from Mashhad
  • Taban Air – flies to/from Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
  • UR Airlines – flies to/from Beirut, Damascus
  • Varesh Airlines – flies to/from Isfahan, Sari, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Zagros Airlines – flies to/from Ardabil, Kerman, Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini

Baghdad International Airport

Baghdad International Airport (IATA: BGW), previously known as Saddam International Airport is Iraq’s largest international airport, located 16 km (9.9 mi) west of downtown Baghdad.

The drive from the airport into the city is along Baghdad Airport Road, once a dangerous route full of IEDs, which has now been resurfaced and lined with palm trees and manicured lawns.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Baghdad International Airport:

  • Air Arabia – flies to/from Sharjah
  • Aircompany Armenia – flies to/from Yerevan
  • AnadoluJet – flies to/from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • ATA Airlines – flies to/from Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Cham Wings Airlines – flies to/from Damascus
  • EgyptAir – flies to/from Cairo
  • Emirates – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • Fly Baghdad – flies to/from Ankara, Beirut, Damascus, Erbil, Hyderabad, Isfahan, Istanbul, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Karachi, Lahore,
  • Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini, Tunis, Yerevan
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • flynas – flies to/from Jeddah, Medina, Riyadh
  • Gulf Air – flies to/from Bahrain
  • Iran Aseman Airlines – flies to/from Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Iraqi Airways – flies to/from Abu Dhabi, Ahmedabad, Amman–Queen Alia, Ankara, Antalya, Baku, Basra, Beirut, Berlin, Cairo, Copenhagen, Damascus, Delhi, Dubai–International, Düsseldorf, Erbil, Frankfurt, Guangzhou, Isfahan, Islamabad, Istanbul, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Karachi, Kirkuk, Kuala Lumpur–International, Kuwait, Mashhad, Moscow–Vnukovo, Mumbai, Munich, Nasiriyah, Stockholm–Arlanda, Sulaymaniyah, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Jordan Aviation – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Mahan Air – flies to/from Kerman, Mashhad, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Middle East Airlines – flies to/from Beirut
  • Nile Air – flies to/from Cairo
  • Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
  • Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Saudia – flies to/from Jeddah
  • SaudiGulf Airlines – flies to/from Medina
  • Syrian Air – flies to/from Damascus
  • Taban Air – flies to/from Mashhad
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Ankara, Antalya, Istanbul
  • UR Airlines – flies to/from Ankara, Antalya, Damascus, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Samsun

Basrah International Airport

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Basrah International Airport:

  • Cham Wings Airlines – flies to/from Damascus
  • Emirates – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • Fly Baghdad – flies to/from Damascus
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • Iraqi Airways – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia, Baghdad, Beirut, Cairo, Delhi, Dubai–International, Erbil, Istanbul, Mashhad, Sulaymaniyah
  • Middle East Airlines – flies to/from Beirut
  • Nile Air – flies to/from Cairo
  • Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul

Land

Iraq is bordered to the north by Turkey, to the east by Iran, to the west by Syria and Jordan, and to the south by Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.

While land borders are open, Visas on Arrival (VOA) cannot be obtained at land borders. If arriving by land, you will need to apply for a visa in advance.

Getting Around

Myself, and an elderly lady - who never stopped talking, riding in a shared taxi from Baghdad to Karbala.

Myself, and an elderly lady – who never stopped talking, riding in a shared taxi from Baghdad to Karbala.

Taxi

Taxis in Iraq can be identified by their red license plates.

Taxis in Iraq can be identified by their red license plates.

The best means of public transport in Iraq are taxis – for both intra and intercity travel.

A typical taxi fare around downtown Baghdad will cost between IQD 5,000 – 10,000 depending on distance.

Travelling to other cities, a shared taxi will cost about IQD10,000 for one of four seats, to nearby cities such as Karbala, Al Najaf and Hillah (for Babylon).

Minibus

Minibuses depart from the same terminals as long-distance taxis and are slightly cheaper, although slower.

Rental Car

While there are rental car agents in Iraq, driving is only for the truly brave – or kamikaze. Traffic is horrendous and the driving style in Iraq could be described as chaotic and dangerous.

The best, and safest, option is to hire a car with a driver, which can be arranged through any hotel.

The following agents can be found in Baghdad:


That’s the end of my Iraq Travel Guide.

If you wish to provide any feedback on this guide, please leave a comment below.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Further Reading:

Travel Quiz 51: World Map Quiz

World Map Quiz

This is a World Map quiz from taste2travel!

 

How well do you know your World Map?

Test your knowledge with this World Map Trivia quiz from taste2travel.

 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

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There are many more travel quizzes on taste2travel, covering specific continents and subjects such as currencies, flags, maps, capital cities, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, museums and much more.

You can access all the quizzes here.


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01. Which country is highlighted on the map?

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03. Which country is highlighted on the map?

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04. Which territory is highlighted on the map?

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18. Which country is highlighted on the map?

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Travel Quiz 51: World Map Quiz
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Socotra Photo Gallery

With its large granite boulders, the beach at Detwah Lagoon reminded me of beaches in the Seychelles.

Socotra Photo Gallery

This is a Socotra Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Socotra Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 214 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Travel Quiz 50: World Heritage Sites Quiz

UNESCO World Heritage Sites Quiz

This is a World Heritage Sites Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know your UNESCO World Heritage Sites?

 

Test your knowledge with this quiz from taste2travel.

This is the 1st UNESCO World Heritage Site quiz on taste2travel – you can find the 2nd quiz here.

If you have an interest in UNESCO World Heritage Sites, don’t forget to check out my interactive map of all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Don’t forget to share this quiz with friends using the social media buttons located at the top of the quiz.


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1. Where would you be if you were exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nan Madol?

The impressive walls of Nan Madol.
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2. Which entire island has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Dragon's blood trees at Homhil.
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3. A famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Grand Canyon is located in which U.S. state?

The Grand Canyon is one of 1,154 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
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4. The walled old town of Khiva, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which country?

Originally planned to be three times its current height, the stunning Kalta-minor Minaret is one of the main sights of Khiva.
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5. In which country would you be if you were visiting Alhambra Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

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6. The Rapa Nui National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located where?

Featuring fifteen moai, Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu on Easter Island (Rapa Nui).
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7. The former Mayan city of Palenque is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in which country?

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8. In which country would you be if you were visiting Machu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

A triumph of the Inca empire, Machu Picchu is a 15th-century citadel, located in the Eastern Cordillera of southern Peru, on a 2,430-metre (7,970 ft) mountain ridge.
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9. Göreme National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which country?

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10. In which country would you be if you were admiring the view from the top of the Jungfraujoch, a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

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11. In which state of Australia would you be if you were visiting Kakadu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Correct! Wrong!

12. The Pantheon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which city?

Correct! Wrong!

13. The ancient city of Samarra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which country?

A highlight of Samarra is the iconic Malwiya (Arabic for "twisted") Minaret.
Correct! Wrong!

14. The Forbidden City is the world's most visited UNESCO World Heritage Site. In which city is it located?

Correct! Wrong!

15. The Statue of Liberty, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a gift of friendship to the United States from which country?

Statue of Liberty
Correct! Wrong!

16. In which country would you be if you were visiting Erbil Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Settled for more than 6,000 years, Erbil Citadel is one of the longest, continuously inhabited, places on Earth.
Correct! Wrong!

17. Aapravasi Ghat is one of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites located in which country?

Photos of Indian indentured labourers at the Aapravasi Ghat museum.
Correct! Wrong!

18. The Galápagos Islands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are a territory of which country?

A very colourful Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
Correct! Wrong!

19. The historic centre of Cienfuegos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which country?

A view from Plaza José Martí, the heart of Cienfuegos, with the red dome of the imposing Palacio de Gobierno (home to the Museo Provincial) in the background.
Correct! Wrong!

20. San Souci Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in which country?

The ruined, Sans-Souci palace, which is located in the town of Milot.
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 50: World Heritage Sites Quiz
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Socotra Travel Guide

Dragon's blood trees at Homhil.

Socotra Travel Guide

This is a Socotra Travel Guide by taste2travel.com

Date Visited: September 2022

Introduction

While a civil war rages on in Yemen, there is one part of that country which is completely safe to visit – Socotra.

The stunning beach, which I had to myself, at Detwah Lagoon.

The stunning beach, which I had to myself, at Detwah Lagoon.

Visas are required by almost all nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more details) and can only be obtained through local tour operators, once you have signed up for a tour.

The only way of visiting Socotra is by joining an all-inclusive, 8-day, camping tour. The tours correspond with the once-per-week UAE government charter flight from Abu Dhabi, which operates each Tuesday.

As of September 2022, the cost of an 8-day tour, plus return airfare from Abu Dhabi is US$2,360 (1 pax tour) or US$1,910 (2 or more pax sharing a tour).

All costs have to be paid in USD cash, although there is an option to pay for your flight via bank transfer. Full details on all of this are included in the sections below.

Arher beach is a typical Socotran beach - spectacularly beautiful and completely deserted.

Arher beach is a typical Socotran beach – spectacularly beautiful and completely deserted.

Socotra is an ancient land which broke away from the African mainland in the days of Gondwana.

Despite being located alongside one of the busiest shipping channels in the world, at the point where the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea meet, Socotra remains firmly off-the-grid, with the locals living a traditional life which hasn’t changed for centuries.

Arriving on Socotra from the glitzy, modern, world of Abu Dhabi is definitely a culture shock! Travelling to the island is like travelling through a wormhole – back into a way of life which existed in the 19th century!

Bottle trees come in all shapes and sizes.

Bottle trees come in all shapes and sizes.

Socotra is a sparsely populated, mostly undeveloped island, which is home to about 50,000 souls, most of whom live in traditional villages.

The only places on the island where you will find electricity are the two towns – Hadiboh and Qalansiya, which have a combined population of 12,000 souls and many more goats.

Elsewhere, some villages have solar panels and are able to generate some electricity.

Would you like to have this beach to yourself? Detwah Lagoon beach, Socotra.

Would you like to have this beach to yourself? Detwah Lagoon beach, Socotra.

The only accommodation, shops, banks and services are in Hadiboh. If you require something as simple as a power outlet for charging anything (e.g. camera batteries), you will need to return to either Hadiboh or Qalansiya.

As for communications – internet and telephone signal is almost non-existent on Socotra. The only signal towers are in the two towns but even there, the Wi-Fi signal is very weak.

Outside of the towns, the only chance locals have of getting a phone signal is by driving to a high point. They all know the places which provide the best signal.

Hayf and Zahek Sand Dunes are a highlight of the south coast of Socotra.

Hayf and Zahek Sand Dunes are a highlight of the south coast of Socotra.

A trip to Socotra is all about disconnecting from the outside world and forgetting about making daily updates to your Instagram Story. The only time I could reconnect to the internet was upon my return to Abu Dhabi.

A swimming pool to myself at beautiful Wadi Kalysan.

A swimming pool to myself at beautiful Wadi Kalysan.

From the weird flora, to the most spectacular of landscapes, Socotra offers plenty of jaw-droppingly beautiful sights. This is an island which is renowned for its strange, otherworldly landscapes – unlike anywhere else on planet Earth.

Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.

Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.

Recognising the significance of the island to humanity, UNESCO declared all of Socotra a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

The Dragon's blood tree is THE iconic image of Socotra Island.

The Dragon’s blood tree is THE iconic image of Socotra Island.

Socotra is an ancient land with alien landscapes – a dazzling gem in the Indian Ocean, which remains largely untouched and unaffected by the modern world – a rewarding travel destination for truly intrepid travellers!

Location

Hadiboh, Yemen

Socotra is an island of the Republic of Yemen in the Indian Ocean. Despite Yemen being a part of the Middle East, Socotra, which lies off the coast of Somalia, and is an extension of the African continent, is considered to be a part of Africa.

Socotra is the largest of the four islands in the Socotra archipelago and represents around 95% of the landmass of the archipelago.

Socotra is famous for its 'otherworldly' landscapes.

Socotra is famous for its ‘otherworldly’ landscapes.

The island lies 380 km (240 mi) south of the Arabian Peninsula, and measures 132 km (82 mi) in length and 50 km (31 mi) in width. Somalia lies 400 km (250 mi) to the west.

No shortage of stunning beaches on Socotra.

No shortage of stunning beaches on Socotra.

Geography

The vast limestone plateau rises up from the narrow coastal plain on the south coast of Socotra.

The vast limestone plateau rises up from the narrow coastal plain on the south coast of Socotra.

Socotra has three geographical terrains: the narrow coastal plains, a limestone plateau and the lofty Hajhir Mountains (1,503 metres (4,931 ft), which rise up behind the main town of Hadiboh.

A large limestone ridge, Socotra is home to many fine white sand beaches.

A large limestone ridge, Socotra is home to many fine white sand beaches.

Safety

Socotra is famous for its 'otherworldly' landscapes.

Despite an ongoing war on the Yemen mainland, Socotra is safe, peaceful and very inviting.

Is Socotra safe to visit? Yes!

Despite the ongoing war on mainland Yemen, Socotra exists in isolated, peaceful bliss. It is completely safe to visit.

Young girls on Socotra.

Young girls on Socotra.

The local Soqotri people are very welcoming and friendly and love seeing tourists on their island.

Independent Travel

Exploring the south coast of Socotra with Socotra Eco-Tours.

Exploring the south coast of Socotra with Socotra Eco-Tours.

Can you travel independently to Socotra? Not really!

In order to get a visa, and hence a flight ticket, you will need to join an organised tour, run by a local tour operator on Socotra.

Socotra Tour Operator

My tour team from Eco-Tours (left - right), Ali (the guide), Abdulrahman (the driver) and Mohammed (Trainee Guide).

My tour team from Eco-Tours (left – right), Ali (the guide), Abdulrahman (the driver) and Mohammed (Trainee Guide).

I travelled to Socotra with Socotra Eco-Tours who charge US$1,500 for an 8-day itinerary for a single traveller, or US$1050 for 2 or more travellers.

Tiny Hala beach - one of many amazing beaches on Socotra Island.

Tiny Hala beach – one of many amazing beaches on Socotra Island.

The tour cost includes visa, meals, accommodation (rough camping), driver and guide. It is fully escorted from airport pick-up to drop-off.

As a solo traveller, I was free to design my own itinerary.

Socotra tour operators provide tents and bedding plus meals. All campsites are in beautiful locations but mostly have no facilities.

A rainbow over Socotra.

A rainbow over Socotra.

Contacts Details for Eco-Tours

Email: holidays@socotra-eco-tours.com

Owner:
Rudwan Mubarak Ali
Socotra, Hadibo
Republic of Yemen
P.O. Box 111

Telephone: +967 777 007 588 (also WhatsApp)

Website: https://www.socotra-eco-tours.com/

This splendid wadi served as our lunch and bath spot on one day of our camping trip.

This splendid wadi served as our lunch and bath spot on one day of our camping trip.

Socotra Flights

The weekly Socotra - Abu Dhabi flight at Socotra Airport.

The weekly Socotra – Abu Dhabi flight at Socotra Airport.

There are currently two options for reaching Socotra:

  1. A weekly flight with Yemenia from Cairo (via mainland Yemen)
  2. A weekly, direct, flight from Abu Dhabi.

If you wish to fly on the Yemenia flight and are having trouble booking a ticket, you can book through Socotra Eco-Tours who act as an agent for the airline.

I flew from Abu Dhabi on what is a UAE Government charter flight which is operated by Emirates Aviation Services (not related to the more famous Emirates Airlines) who use an Air Arabia plane for the service.

The flight operates every Tuesday, leaving Abu Dhabi (Terminal 1) in the morning, returning later in the afternoon. The flight time between Abu Dhabi and Socotra is 2 hours, 15 minutes.

Despite a return ticket costing US$860, this special charter flight is very popular, especially with European tour groups. I was told by a representative from the airline that the flight is sold out from October 2022 to May 2023.

I was able to get a last-minute ticket as I flew in September, just ahead of the main tourist season.

Best to book everything in advance!

Flight Schedule (operated by Air Arabia)

  • Flight 9G-476 / Depart AUH 09:25 / Arrive SCT 10:40
  • Flight 9G-477 / Depart SCT 12:10 / Arrive AUH 15:25

Contacts Details for Emirates Aviation Services

Telephone: +971 50 671 6175 (also WhatsApp)

Contact Name: Abdulla Yousef

Travel Season

September on Socotra is a wonderful time to visit - before the main tourist season begins.

September on Socotra is a wonderful time to visit – before the main tourist season begins.

The best time to travel to Socotra is from September to May. This is when the weather is most stable, although December is the wettest month.

While the weekly flight is reliable from September to May, flights at other times of the year are less reliable, due to strong winds and unfavourable weather.

Travel Costs

The two biggest expenses when travelling to Socotra are the cost of a tour and the airfare.

The two biggest expenses when travelling to Socotra are the cost of a tour and the airfare.

When travelling to Socotra, the two main expenses are the flight and the tour cost. As outlined in the previous section, these are:

  • Tour Cost (8-days / All inclusive): US$1,500 (1 pax) or US$1,050 (2 or more pax).

Tour costs must be paid in USD cash upon arrival on Socotra. There are no credit card facilities anywhere on Socotra and banks are almost non-existent.

  • Return Flight (from Abu Dhabi): US$860

The flight ticket must be paid for in USD cash at the airport on the day of departure, or via bank transfer. I actually met Abdulla Yousef for a coffee at Dubai Mall and paid him directly for my ticket.

Apart from these costs, a little extra USD cash will be required to cover any incidental costs and tips for the tour driver and guide.

If you wish to stay in a hotel in Hadiboh, rather than rough camping every night, a room at the Diamond hotel costs US$30 per night.

People

A school girl, in the 2nd largest town of Qalansiya.

A school girl, in the 2nd largest town of Qalansiya.

Quite different to the Yemenis on the mainland, the Soqotri people are a Semitic ethnic group native to Socotra. The island has been settled for at least 2,000 years.

A young girl at Diksam plateau.

A young girl at Diksam plateau.

The Soqotri currently number around 57,000 with most living in remote, rural communities and in the capital and main town of Hadiboh (pop: 8,500). The 2nd largest town is Qalansiya which lies on the west coast and is home to 4,000 souls.

Children on Diksam plateau.

Very shy children at Diksam plateau.

The inhabitants speak the Soqotri language and are mostly Sunni Muslims.

Women on Socotra are rarely seen and are always covered in public.

Women on Socotra are rarely seen and are always covered in public.

The modern age has bypassed Socotra, which retains a very traditional way of life. Electricity, internet and shops can only be found in Hadiboh and Qalansiya.

While Socotra is home to 50,000 souls, the goat population is much larger.

While Socotra is home to 50,000 souls, the goat population is much larger.

Being a traditional Islamic society, women are rarely seen in public and are always covered. While young girls can be photographed, females older than adolescent age cannot!

Wherever I travelled on Socotra, I was surrounded only by men.

Despite the traditional way of life, some Socotran females travel to Egypt, along with many males from the island, to receive a tertiary education. Almost all attend a college in Alexandria and live in student accommodation before returning home. Some females can be found working in Hadiboh.

Houses on Socotra feature colourfully decorated wrought iron doors and windows.

Houses on Socotra feature colourfully decorated wrought iron doors and windows.

The overwhelming majority of Socotrans live a traditional rural lifestyle, either fishing or raising livestock (goats, sheep, cattle and camels), which allows them to produce milk and meat for themselves and their community. Commerce on the island is minimal.

Being a close-knit community, everyone knows everyone. Wherever we travelled on Socotra, my driver and guide would often stop to say hello to friends.

My guide Ali, posing with the very cute daughter of a friend, in the town of Qalansiya.

My guide Ali, posing with the very cute daughter of a friend, in the town of Qalansiya.

There is a close bond between Soqotri which is the result of living a traditional life, isolated from the rest of the world, free from the distractions of a 21st century lifestyle.

Yemen and South Yemen

A map showing North and South Yemen, prior to unification. <br><i>Source: Wikipedia.

A map showing North and South Yemen, prior to unification.
Source: Wikipedia.

For most of its history, what is today a united Yemen was two different entities – North Yemen and South Yemen.

During the colonial era, North Yemen existed as a state in the Ottoman Empire, with Sanaa serving as its capital, while South Yemen was administered by the British as part of British India. Aden served as the capital of South Yemen, which also included Socotra.

While you travel around Socotra, you will see the flag of South Yemen and rarely the flag of Yemen.

During its day, South Yemen had the distinction of being the only avowedly communist nation in the Middle East, receiving generous foreign aid and other assistance from the Soviets.

The two Yemen’s were eventually united on the 22nd of May 1990, becoming the Republic of Yemen.

The ongoing civil war today sees Iranian-backed (Shia) Houthi forces, which control all of North Yemen, fighting against a coalition of Saudi-backed (Sunni) forces which controls South Yemen.

Russian Tanks

One of many rusty Russian T-34 tanks which line the north coast of Socotra.

One of many rusty Russian T-34 tanks which line the north coast of Socotra.

Despite the fact that Socotra is today safe, during the 1970-90s, the island was part of South Yemen aka Democratic Yemen, which was a pro-USSR communist state. 

To protect the island from any potential invasion from the mainland, the USSR installed several dozen old and rusty T-34 tanks (from the days of WWII), along the north coast. Hardly functional at the time they were installed, these tanks served only as gun turrets. 

These broken relics can be seen in various places along the northern coastline.

Flags 

The flag of the Republic of Yemen.

The flag of the Republic of Yemen.

The flag of the Republic of Yemen was adopted on May 22, 1990, the day that North Yemen and South Yemen were unified.

The flag is essentially the Arab Liberation Flag of 1952, introduced after the Egyptian Revolution of 1952 in which Arab nationalism was a dominant theme. The same flag is today used by Egypt, Iraq, Sudan and Syria.

According to the official description, the red stands for unity and the bloodshed of martyrs, the white for a bright future, and the black for the supposed dark past.

You will rarely see the Yemen flag on Socotra, where the flag of South Yemen is flown instead.

The flag of South Yemen, officially the People's Democratic Republic of Yemen.

The flag of South Yemen, officially the People’s Democratic Republic of Yemen.

The Flag of South Yemen is the same as that used by the Republic of Yemen (i.e. the Arab Liberation flag) with the addition of a sky-blue chevron and a red star on the hoist side.

The flag was adopted on 30 November 1967 when South Yemen declared independence from the United Kingdom until the Yemeni unification in 1990.

Today, the South Yemeni flag is used by the separatist supporters from the Southern Movement and the Southern Transitional Council. It is this flag which you will see flown on Socotra.

Currency

The official currency of Yemen is the Yemeni rial.

The official currency of Yemen is the Yemeni rial.

The official currency of Yemen is the Yemeni rial, which has the international currency code of YER.

Banknotes are issued in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 250, 500 and 1,000 rials.

The Yemeni Civil War has caused the currency to diverge.

In southern Yemen, which is primarily controlled by UAE-backed separatists and the former government backed by Saudi Arabia, ongoing printing has caused the currency to plummet into freefall.

In northern Yemen, which is primarily controlled by Ansar Allah with support from Iran, banknotes printed after 2017 are not considered legal tender, and therefore, the exchange rate has remained stable.

1000 Yemeni rial banknotes.

1000 Yemeni rial banknotes.

Exchange Rates

Despite the current advertised exchange rate (on Google) of USD$1 = 250 rial, the exchange rate on Socotra at the time of my visit in September 2022 was:

USD$1 = 1,100 rial

Flora

Dragon’s Blood Tree

Dragon's blood trees at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.

Dragon’s blood trees at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.

Most famous and iconic of all Socotri flora is the Socotran dragon’s blood tree (Dracaena cinnabari). While other species of this tree can be found in other parts of Africa and Arabia, the Socotran dragon’s blood tree is endemic to the island.

Since ancient times its red resin, from which the tree gets its name, has been highly desired.

A view of the Firmihin Forest on Diksam plateau.

A view of the Firmihin Forest on Diksam plateau.

The most prolific stand of Dragon’s blood trees on Socotra is in the Firmihin Forest on Diksam plateau.

A view of Dragon's blood trees and the spectacular gorge at Diksam plateau.

A view of Dragon’s blood trees and the spectacular gorge at Diksam plateau.

However, during my visit the plateau was always shrouded in mist and fog with constant rain fall, making photography tricky.

Dragon's blood trees on Homhil, Socotra.

Dragon’s blood trees on Homhil, Socotra.

The best photo opportunity was on Homhil where the trees were basking in brilliant sunshine.

Young Dragon's blood trees in a nursery on Diksam plateau.

Young Dragon’s blood trees in a nursery on Diksam plateau.

While there are many fine examples of Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau, the tree is classified as ‘threatened’. It is believed the many roaming goats on the island love to eat the younger trees.

To counter this threat, a team of Czech researchers has established a protected nursery for young Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau, adjacent to the tourist campsite.

My haul of Dragon's blood tree resin which I purchased from a village on Diksam plateau.

My haul of Dragon’s blood tree resin which I purchased from a village on Diksam plateau.

The red resin from the Dragon’s blood tree has been in continuous use since ancient times as incense, medicine, dye and varnish. Today, villagers on Socotra sell packets of resin to passing tourists. The small haul pictured above cost me about US$3.

Socotran Frankincense Tree

Socotran frankincense trees (Boswellia socotrana) at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.

Socotran frankincense trees (Boswellia socotrana) at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.

Frankincense, the resin produced by a species of Boswellia, was one of the most valuable commodities produced in the ancient world. Highly prized as fragrant incense, it was also widely used in medicine, cosmetics, and even cuisine.

Today, large quantities of Frankincense are traded around the world for use in religious ceremonies and for incense production.

Common to the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, the species found on Socotra – Boswellia socotrana – is endemic to the island and is said to produce the best quality resin.

The best examples on Socotra can be found in a small grove at the Homhil Plateau Protected Area.

Socotra Bottle Trees

Bottle trees can be found throughout Socotra Island.

Bottle trees can be found throughout Socotra Island.

If there is one tree which gives Socotra its otherworldly look then it must be the weird and wacky bottle tree.

Bottle trees are easily distinguished by their swollen trunks.

Bottle trees are easily distinguished by their swollen trunks.

The species found on Socotra is Adenium obesum var socotranum, which is a poisonous plant, which explains why the many goats on the island leave it completely alone.

Pink flowers on a bottle tree.

Pink flowers on a bottle tree.

Bottle trees can be found throughout Socotra, taking root in mostly hard limestone rock on vertical cliffs and high mountain plateaus. They also especially like sloping ground. 

Flowering Bottle tree on Socotra.

Flowering Bottle tree on Socotra.

Each year, especially in March, the trees bloom with big, beautiful pink flowers. During my visit in September, I was able to find several flowering trees.   

Bottle trees like to grow in precarious locations.

Bottle trees like to grow in precarious locations.

Aloe Jawiyon

Aloe jawiyon is a species of aloe which is endemic to Socotra.

Aloe jawiyon is a species of aloe which is endemic to Socotra.

Aloe jawiyon is a species of aloe which is endemic to Socotra and is used by locals for medicinal purposes.

Birds of Socotra

Socotra Starling 

Socotra (female) starling.

Socotra (female) starling.

The Socotra starling can be found throughout the island and always in mating pairs.

Socotra starlings (male on the left, female on the right) pair for life and can always be seen together.

Socotra starlings (male on the left, female on the right) pair for life and can always be seen together.

 

A female Somali starling at Dixsam plateau.

A female Somali starling at Diksam plateau.

Socotra Sparrow

The Socotra sparrow is endemic to Socotra.

The Socotra sparrow is endemic to Socotra.

The endemic Socotra sparrow has distinct plumage which sets it apart from most other sparrows.

Egyptian Vulture

The widespread Egyptian vulture is a common sight on Socotra.

The widespread Egyptian vulture is a common sight on Socotra.

Egyptian vultures are widespread throughout Socotra, where they can be seen scavenging off rubbish heaps and anything else they can find.

Despite their name, this species of vulture is widespread and can be found in many regions between Spain in the west and India in the east.

Whenever I ate my meals on Socotra, I was quickly surrounded by Egyptian vultures, who were keen for any scraps.

Whenever I ate my meals on Socotra, I was quickly surrounded by Egyptian vultures, who were keen for any scraps.

Whenever meals were served at our campsite, shadows would circle overhead. Egyptian vultures looking for a feed!

Eventually they would settle on the ground around me, waiting for any scraps of food. My fellow dining companions during my week of camping!

Sightseeing

My Socotra Eco-Tours team, (left - right) Mohammed, Abdulrahman and Ali.

My Socotra Eco-Tours team, (left – right) Mohammed, Abdulrahman and Ali.

During my 8 days on Socotra, I covered the sights listed below on a tour with Socotra Eco-Tours.

I travelled in a Toyota 4WD which was expertly driven by the very capable Abdulrahman, who also served as the cook. The tour was led by my guide, Ali who was supported by a trainee guide, Mohammed, who was on a break from his studies in Alexandria, Egypt.

Hadiboh

Fish vendors at the Central fish market in Hadiboh, Socotra.

Fish vendors at the Central fish market in Hadiboh, Socotra.

The first day of the tour started with my arrival on Socotra from Abu Dhabi. After exiting the airport, we drove into Hadiboh to have lunch at the very busy Shabwah Restaurant.

Fresh tuna, seen here at the Central fish market, is always on the menu on Socotra.

Fresh tuna, seen here at the Central fish market, is always on the menu on Socotra.

The noisy, chaotic, less-than-hygienic, nature of the restaurant was a complete culture shock after many days spent dining in the ritzy malls of the UAE.

Fresh tuna for sale at the Central fish market in Hadiboh.

Fresh tuna for sale at the Central fish market in Hadiboh.

The capital and biggest town on Socotra is a collection of non-descript breeze-block buildings which line dusty, chaotic streets which are covered in litter. There is no organised rubbish collection on Socotra.

Hadiboh is small but does have some all-purpose shops, banks and currency-exchange facilities, a handful of café/restaurants, a market and a hospital. There are no shops elsewhere on the island! If you need anything for your week of camping, you need to purchase it in Hadiboh.

Handicrafts for sale at the Woman's Co-operative in Hadiboh.

Handicrafts for sale at the Woman’s Co-operative in Hadiboh.

There are two places of interest which are the municipal fish market, which was built by the UAE government, and a Saudi-supported Women’s Co-operative where locally made handicrafts are offered for sale at very reasonable prices.

Di Hamri Marine Protected Area

A view of the coral-covered beach at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.

A view of the coral-covered beach at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.

A short drive east of Hadiboh, the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area is home to an offshore coral reef and is the one place on Socotra where you can go diving with the one certified dive master on Socotra – the very friendly Naseem (Tel: +967 777 801 948).

Sunset at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.

Sunset at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.

Located on a remote peninsula, Du Hamri is home to a small fishing. One of the residents of the village, Naseem, is the dive master.

A fulltime fisherman, Naseem has dive equipment, speaks English, and is happy to take tourists diving.

As a diver, I was keen to dive, but Naseem advised that visibility was very poor at the time of my visit (September) due to the ongoing monsoonal winds which were whipping the island every day during my visit.

He advised that the best months for diving are April and May.

A red mattress, my bed for the night, at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area, a campsite without any showers or toilets.

A red mattress, my bed for the night, at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area, a campsite without any showers or toilets.

The campsite at Di Hamri contains one sturdy building which is currently under construction. I slept the night on a red mattress under the cover of the building, my first night of camping. At the time of my visit there were no facilities such as toilets, showers etc.

Wadi Kalysan

Wadi Kalysan

The most amazing freshwater pool on Socotra – Wadi Kalysan.

On the 2nd day of my 8-day trip, we drove from the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area to the remote Kalysan Canyon, which is close to the south coast, with views of the Indian Ocean in the distance.

A view of the Kalysan Canyon, with the Indian Ocean in the background.

A view of the Kalysan Canyon, with the Indian Ocean in the background.

A 45-minute hike down into the canyon ended at the stunningly beautiful Wadi Kalysan, where a river of bottle-green, fresh water flows through a canyon of white, polished limestone.

Bottle trees at Wadi Kalysan.

Bottle trees at Wadi Kalysan.

Once again – we had this amazing sight all to ourselves.

The green waters of Wadi Kalysan pass through the very remote Kalysan Canyon.

The green waters of Wadi Kalysan pass through the very remote Kalysan Canyon.

A great place to swim and relax while Abdulrahman (our driver and cook) prepared lunch back at the camp sight.

Wadi Kalysan - a perfect freshwater swimming pool.

Wadi Kalysan – a perfect freshwater swimming pool.

Our driver and cook, Abdulrahman prepared the most amazing Kingfish for lunch at Kalysan Canyon.

Our driver and cook, Abdulrahman prepared lunch at Kalysan Canyon.

Our driver and cook, Abdulrahman prepared lunch at Kalysan Canyon.

The fish had been caught in the morning at Di Hamri by the dive master, Naseem, who had been out fishing earlier that morning.

Kingfish for lunch at Kalysan Canyon.

Kingfish for lunch at Kalysan Canyon.

I chose to eat my lunch at the edge of the canyon, where I was joined by a number of opportunistic vultures.

My Kingfish lunch, with a view of the Kalysan Canyon and a vulture overhead.

My Kingfish lunch, with a view of the Kalysan Canyon and a vulture overhead.

Arher Beach Sand Dunes

A highlight of the east coast of Socotra are the towering white sand dunes which have been blown against the walls of the limestone massif at Arher beach.

A highlight of the east coast of Socotra are the towering white sand dunes which have been blown against the walls of the limestone massif at Arher beach.

A truly impressive sight are the towering white sand dunes at Arher beach.

Like large piles of talcum powder, the sand dunes at Arher beach are 150 metres (500 ft) in height).

Like large piles of talcum powder, the sand dunes at Arher beach are 150 metres (500 ft) in height).

Over millions of years, the strong winds which constantly whip the east coast, have blown the powdery white sand up against the cliffs of the limestone massif which runs along the coast.

The sand dunes of Arher beach, Socotra.

The sand dunes of Arher beach, Socotra.

Yet another jaw-droppingly beautiful sight on an island which offers so many incredible views!

Sand dunes at Arher beach.

Sand dunes at Arher beach.

Truly Wow!

Our cave campsite at Arher beach.

Our cave campsite at Arher beach.

Due to strong winds, our plan to camp overnight on the beach had to be abandoned. Instead, we camped in the shelter of a cave which overlooked the beach.

My guide, Ali, serving breakfast in the cave campsite.

My guide, Ali, serving breakfast in the cave campsite.

Even in the shelter of the cave, the howling winds throughout the night tried their best to blow us all away.

Breakfast each morning usually consisted of flat bread (never fresh of course) with cheese spread and jam. This was served with a furnace of sweet black tea – delicious!

Sunrise over the east coast of Socotra, as seen from our cave campsite.

Sunrise over the east coast of Socotra, as seen from our cave campsite.

Hala Beach

Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.

Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.

Located on the east coast, a short drive from Arher beach, is the truly beautiful Hala beach.

The only house on Hala beach.

The only house on Hala beach.

Yet another stunning beach with was deserted when we arrived.

Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.

A fisherman, fishing on Hala beach, Socotra.

I managed to take a few photos of the empty beach before a friendly fisherman appeared to demonstrate his fishing skills.

Hala beach - a perfect swimming beach with not a soul in sight - until the friendly fisherman appeared!

Hala beach – a perfect swimming beach with not a soul in sight – until the friendly fisherman appeared!

He managed to catch a very tiny fish, which he then stuffed in his pocket!

A fisherman at Hala beach, showing me his catch, before he put it in his pocket.

A fisherman at Hala beach, showing me his catch, before he put it in his pocket.

Homhil Plateau Protected Area

A panoramic view of the countryside from Homhil.

A panoramic view of the countryside from Homhil.

Day three saw us climb the first of many steep, rough gravel roads to the Homhil Plateau Protected Area.


Video: The drive down from Homhil. 


Homhil is home to a stand of Socotra frankincense trees and many Dragon’s blood trees. Local villagers tap both trees to extract the valuable gum resin.

Frankincense trees on Homhil, Socotra.

Frankincense trees on Homhil, Socotra.

Frankincense has been used since ancient times as an incense and fragrance. The Three Wise Men brought gold, frankincense and myrrh to the new-born king. Gold, of course, was valuable as currency, frankincense – a valuable perfume and myrrh – a precious ointment often used in the burial process.

Bottle tree on Homhil.

Bottle tree on Homhil.

Today frankincense resin is sold around the world for incense production and religious ceremonies and is especially popular in the Middle East where it can be found in any souk.

Dragon's blood trees at Homhil.

Dragon’s blood trees at Homhil.

Photography was best on Homhil since the trees were basking in glorious sunlight – unlike Diksam plateau which was always overcast and foggy.

Diksam Plateau

Dragon's blood trees on Diksam plateau.

Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau.

Diksam plateau is home to the largest stand of Socotra Dragon’s blood trees to be found anywhere in the world.

Children on Diksam plateau.

Children on Diksam plateau.

The weather during our two days was constantly overcast, foggy and wet.

Socotra Dragon blood's trees on the edge of the 700-metre-deep gorge.

Socotra Dragon blood’s trees on the edge of the 700-metre-deep gorge.

For the locals, who live on the dry coastal plain, where it rarely rains, visiting the plateau is a special experience. The cool, wet weather is truly a world away from the arid, blistering hot coast.

Exploring Diksam plateau with Socotra Eco-Tours.

Exploring Diksam plateau with Socotra Eco-Tours.

The plateau is dissected by the 700-metre (2,295 ft) deep gorge which drops vertically to the valley floor.

Dragon's blood trees on Diksam plateau.

Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau.

On one side of the gorge is the Fermhin forest, home to the largest stand of Socotra Dragon’s blood trees.

My campsite at Diksam plateau.

My campsite at Diksam plateau.

The village at Diksam plateau is home to a campground which includes a couple of buildings for cooking and sleeping and a toilet and shower facility.

I chose to sleep outside, in a tent, under the protection of one of the buildings – out of the constant drizzle rain.

Dagub Cave

Standing in the entrance of Dagub cave, Ali and Mohammed provide a sense of scale for the two gigantic columns inside the cave.

Standing in the entrance of Dagub cave, Ali and Mohammed provide a sense of scale for the two gigantic columns inside the cave.

On an island full of unforgettable sights, Dagub cave was another fascinating stop.

Set into the limestone escarpment which runs along the south coast, this large cavern is completely open to the elements which has resulted in the former stalactites and stalagmites becoming discoloured due to exposure to oxygen and the elements.

The view from within the massive Dagub cave.

The view from within the massive Dagub cave.

The entrance of the cave features two massive columns (i.e. a structure where stalactites and stalagmites have joined together to form a single column). These columns are easily 20 metres in height.

Dagub cave is set in the limestone escarpment which runs along the south coast.

Dagub cave is set in the limestone escarpment which runs along the south coast.

Considering that stalactites and stalagmites grow at approximately 2.5 cm (1 inch) per 1,000 years, these were formed over many millions of years. Today they lie exposed to the elements with vegetation sprouting from them.

The floor of Dagub cave is carpeted in a thick layer of <i>Guano</i>.

The floor of Dagub cave is carpeted in a thick layer of Guano.

Also impressive is the fact that the floor of the cave is completely covered in a thick layer (a least 10 cm) of guano from the many bats and birds which inhabit the caves, the result of millions of years of pooping!

Amazing to see such a valuable resource lying untouched. Only on Socotra!

Amek Beach

Located on the south coast, Amek beach served as our campsite for one night. I got to dine, and sleep, in this newly purchased tent which was wonderful.

Located on the south coast, Amek beach served as our campsite for one night. I got to dine, and sleep, in this newly purchased tent which was wonderful.

Our campsite on the rugged south coast of Socotra was on Amek beach.

The long, exposed beaches on the south coast are pounded by the rough, turbulent waters of the Indian Ocean.

Swimming here is dangerous due to rips and currents.

The best swimming beaches on Socotra are on the north and east coasts which face the much calmer Arabian sea.

The campsite at Amek beach, on the south coast of Socotra.

The campsite at Amek beach, on the south coast of Socotra.

The campsite at Amek beach features the usual rudimentary structures (no good if it starts raining!) plus an amenities block (pictured in the background) with pit toilets and showers – which are placed directly above the pit toilets!

A curious camel, checking me out, on Amek beach.

A curious camel, checking me out, on Amek beach.

Hayf and Zahek Sand Dunes

The magnificent and surreal sand dunes on the south coast of Socotra.

The magnificent and surreal sand dunes on the south coast of Socotra.

A highlight of the south coast is the beautiful and totally surreal Hayf and Zahek sand dunes. Best photographed early morning or late afternoon when the light is especially moody.

Truly stunning and very special to have such a place to yourself!

Dramatic skies over the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

Dramatic skies over the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

Incredible sand designs and stormy skies at the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

Incredible sand designs and stormy skies at the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

 

A photographer's dream - the incredible Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

A photographer’s dream – the incredible Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

 

One more image from the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

One more image from the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.

Qalansiya

A school girl in Qalansiya.

A school girl in Qalansiya.

Located at the far western end of Socotra, facing out towards Somalia and Africa, the island’s 2nd largest town, Qalansiya, is a sleepy settlement with nothing too redeeming to offer.

With a population of 4,000 - Qalansiya is the 2nd largest town on Socotra.

With a population of 4,000 – Qalansiya is the 2nd largest town on Socotra.

Most people drive through the dusty streets of sleepy Qalansiya, on their way to the nearby Detwah Lagoon.

I treated the tour company staff to a delicious lime juice at this shop in Qalansiya.

I treated the tour company staff to a delicious lime juice at this shop in Qalansiya.

One stop worth making in Qalansiya is at the local juice shop. I treated the guys to a jug of freshly blended Socotra lime juice – so good in the baking midday heat.

Detwah Lagoon

On an island full of stunning beaches, the beach at Detwah Lagoon is possibly the best!

On an island full of stunning beaches, the beach at Detwah Lagoon is possibly the best!

Wow! Wow! Wow! What a stunning sight!

After a week of driving around Socotra and photographing one amazing beach after another, the finalé came in the form of the spectacular Detwah Lagoon and the adjacent beach, both of which are tucked away behind a rocky hill which rises up behind the town of Qalansiya.

The locals on Socotra do not have a swimming culture and with no development anywhere, the stunning beaches on the island are always empty.

The locals on Socotra do not have a swimming culture and with no development anywhere, the stunning beaches on the island are always empty.

What an amazing sight – and absolutely deserted!

Of course, I had to go for a swim. An incredible experience to have such an amazing beach to myself. Anywhere else in the world, this would be lined with hotels and crammed full with bathers!

With its large granite boulders, the beach at Detwah Lagoon reminded me of beaches in the Seychelles.

With its large granite boulders, the beach at Detwah Lagoon reminded me of beaches in the Seychelles.

Only on Socotra can you have such an idyllic beach to yourself.

An amazing beach to have to yourself!

An amazing beach to have to yourself!

Alongside the beach is Detwah Lagoon which is home to one family who fish and operate an informal campsite which is used by the different tour companies.

A view of Detwah Lagoon.

A view of Detwah Lagoon.

From the beach I walked to the campsite which overlooks the beautiful Detwah Lagoon. Like other campsites on Socotra, this campsite consists of a few rudimentary structures which allow you to keep out of the blistering sun during the day.

The campsite at Detwah Lagoon where I dined on freshly caught crab for lunch.

The campsite at Detwah Lagoon where I dined on freshly caught crab for lunch.

The campsite is operated by a young fisherman and his family, who live in the only house to be built on the shores of the lagoon.

The fisherman, who operates the campsite at Detwah Lagoon, offered me a freshly caught crab for lunch.

The fisherman, who operates the campsite at Detwah Lagoon, offered me a freshly caught crab for lunch.

The fisherman offered me a crab which he had caught in the morning. This was an extra charge for which I paid US$4 – a charge which was totally worth it!

My lunch at Detwah Lagoon included a freshly caught crab.

My lunch at Detwah Lagoon included a freshly caught crab.

My crab was served with a plate of rice and pieces of fresh tuna – which were overcooked.

All food on Socotra is served ‘well done’.

The fisherman at Detwah Lagoon showing me a baby stingray which inhabits the lagoon.

The fisherman at Detwah Lagoon showing me a baby stingray which inhabits the lagoon.

The shallow waters of Detwah lagoon provide the perfect nursery for cute baby stingrays. The fisherman showed me one juvenile ray which had a stinger in its tail.

A view of Detwah Lagoon at low tide.

A view of Detwah Lagoon at low tide.

If you’re walking around in the lagoon, its best to shuffle your feet, rather than stepping, which helps to stir up the sandy floor and will force any lurking rays to move on.

Qoba Crater Lake

A view of the Qoba crater lake which lies on the north coast.

A view of the Qoba crater lake which lies on the north coast.

Located on the north coast, a short drive from the main road, the Qoba crater lake is an enigma. No one seems to know when this was formed, but the saline water attracts local livestock.

Hajhir Mountains

The lofty peaks of the Hajhir Mountains are often shrouded un cloud.

The lofty peaks of the Hajhir Mountains are often shrouded un cloud.

Forming a towering backdrop to Hadiboh, the Hajhir massif is the highest mountain range on Socotra Island. The highest point of the range is Mashanig peak which lies at approximately 1,500 m (4,900 ft) above sea level.

The road up to the top of the range is a very steep, poorly maintained gravel road which becomes slippery mud as you enter the fog/ cloud zone near the summit of the range.

Our 4WD, shrouded in fog and cloud, at the top of the Hajhir Mountains.

Our 4WD, shrouded in fog and cloud, at the top of the Hajhir Mountains.

It’s best to check the cloud condition before driving to the top, and best not to go when cloud covers the mountains, although weather conditions at the summit change every 5 minutes.

A view down to the north coast from the Hajhir Mountains.

A view down to the north coast from the Hajhir Mountains.

The drive up the steep, perilous gravel/ mud road takes almost one hour. If the mountain is covered in cloud, there is little to see!

Accommodation

My room at the Diamond hotel in Hadiboh costs US$30 per night.

My room at the Diamond hotel in Hadiboh costs US$30 per night.

Socotra Island is largely undeveloped and has been bypassed by the modern age. As such, the standard of everything, including accommodation, cannot be compared to the modern world.

Hotels are generally basic and camping grounds are very rudimentary.

Hotels

There are a few hotels in the main town of Hadiboh but no accommodation options elsewhere. Most tours include a hotel on the last night so you can freshen up before your flight the next morning.

Those who do not wish to participate in camping can instead stay in hotels in Hadiboh and do daytrips each day. This option will cost you extra.

The island is small enough that it can be covered on day trips from Hadiboh.

The following hotels are located in Hadiboh:

  • Summerland Hotel: the fanciest accommodation on Socotra with rooms starting at US$75.
  • Diamond Hotel: a good mid-range option with rooms starting at US$30.
  • Socotra Tourist Hotel
  • Taj Socotra Tourist Hotel: Tel: +967 5 660 626

Camping

This cave on the east coast served as our campsite one evening.

This cave on the east coast served as our campsite one evening.

While camping trips are the norm on Socotra, there are few established camping grounds. In some places, rudimentary shelters have been erected with very basic toilet and shower facilities. In other places, you camp rough, maybe inside a cave.

Eating Out

The best restaurant in Hariboh, the popular Shabwah Restaurant.

The best restaurant in Hariboh, the popular Shabwah Restaurant.

In Hadiboh, dining options are very limited, but everywhere you can find sweet, black tea.

A tea shop on Socotra. Tea, or <i>chai</i> is an integral part of life on Socotra.

A tea shop on Socotra. Tea, or chai is an integral part of life on Socotra.

The most popular restaurant in town is the Shabwah Restaurant which is where all tourists end up dining.

Sharing breakfast, and the largest piece of flatbread I've ever seen, at the Shabwah restaurant with my guide Ali.

Sharing breakfast, and the largest piece of flatbread I’ve ever seen, at the Shabwah restaurant with my guide Ali.

During my stay on the island, eggs had not been available for weeks. On my last day, eggs were back on the menu at the Shabwah restaurant thanks to a boat which had arrived the day before.

Most meals on Socotra consist of rice with some sort of protein, normally freshly caught fish.

Most meals on Socotra consist of rice with some sort of protein, normally freshly caught fish.

With almost all food imported by dhow boat from mainland Yemen, the island suffers food shortages during the windy season when boats are often cancelled.

Goats are everywhere on Socotra and love to steal your food (or anything else) while you have your back turned.

Goats are everywhere on Socotra and love to steal your food (or anything else) while you have your back turned.

Special mention should be made of the large number of goats on Socotra – they easily outnumber the human population.

As cute as they look, the free-roaming goats are very mischievous and will steal any food whenever you have your back turned.

This is a problem since all meals on a camping trip are eaten outdoors. The goats are ever-present and will strike whenever you let your guard down.

Shooing away goats is a national pastime on Socotra. Very annoying!

Lime Juice

A deliciously refreshing, icy cool, freshly blended, lime juice in the town of Qalansiya.

A deliciously refreshing, icy cool, freshly blended, lime juice in the town of Qalansiya.

Something that should not be missed while on Socotra is the deliciously fresh lime juice, which is freshly blended using Socotra limes.

A blender full of delicious lime juice at a shop in Qalansiya.

A blender full of delicious lime juice at a shop in Qalansiya.

The best lime juice on the island can be found at a juice shop in the smaller town of Qalansiya and at the Shabwah Restaurant in Hadiboh.

Visa Requirements

My departure stamp from Socotra.

My departure stamp from Socotra.

Almost all nationalities require a visa to visit Yemen.

Currently, 11 nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival. To check your visa requirements, you should refer to the Visa Policy of Yemen.

My Yemen tourist visa.

My Yemen tourist visa.

Visas are included in the cost of a tour and will be emailed to you by your tour operator. The visa needs to be printed and presented upon arrival at Socotra airport.

Upon arrival at Socotra, your passport will be stamped and the bottom section of the visa form will be detached, stamped and handed to you. It’s important to retain this part of the visa which will need to be surrendered upon departure.

Getting There

A view of Socotra Airport.

A view of Socotra Airport.

Air

Air Arabia operate the weekly UAE government charter flight from Abu Dhabi airport.

Air Arabia operate the weekly UAE government charter flight from Abu Dhabi airport.

Just two airlines provide flights to Socotra:

  • Emirates Aviation Services (UAE government charter flight which uses an Air Arabia airbus): Flies to/ from Abu Dhabi every Tuesday.
  • Yemeni Airways: flies to/ from Cairo every Wednesday.
A view of Socotra from my Air Arabia flight.

A view of Socotra from my Air Arabia flight.

Getting Around

 Transport on Socotra is provided by your tour company.

Transport on Socotra is provided by your tour company.

All transport on Socotra is provided by your tour company.

Public transport is very limited with a few minibuses providing infrequent services for locals. Most locals tend to hitch rides by waiting by the roadside.

A Socotra car license plate.

A Socotra car license plate.

Signage is totally non-existent on the island and with no WiFi signal, navigation apps do not work!


That’s the end of my travel guide for Socotra. If you have any feedback, please do not hesitate to leave a reply below. 

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Iraqi Kurdistan Photo Gallery

Kurdistan flag skullcaps on sale at Erbil souk.

Iraqi Kurdistan Photo Gallery

This is an Iraqi Kurdistan Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 213 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

The dazzling interior of the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

This is an Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: August 2022

Introduction

Unfortunately, for the past few decades, Iraq has been in the news headlines for all the wrong reasons. However, peace and stability have been the norm, for many years, in the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan.

I first got the idea to visit Iraqi Kurdistan while having breakfast in a hotel in Singapore in 2019. I was sat next to a Kurdish father and daughter who had fled from Iraqi Kurdistan, to the safety of Australia, to avoid persecution during the rule of Saddam Hussein.

They were returning to Australia following a visit to see family and friends in Iraqi Kurdistan. They assured me that the region was safe to visit and that I would receive a warm welcome from the Kurds!

How right they were!

Erbil Citadel has been the site of human settlement for more than 6,000 years.

Erbil Citadel has been the site of human settlement for more than 6,000 years.

Of all the places I have visited on planet Earth, Iraqi was country/ territory # 213, I can say that the Kurds are some of the friendliest people I have every had the pleasure to spend time with.

Every day, I was overwhelmed by Kurdish hospitality. Whether paying for a glass of tea, a taxi ride or even a meal – payment was often refused as I was a guest in the land of the Kurds.

The staff at my hotel in Erbil – the wonderful Erbil View Hotel – assured me that the hotel was my home away from home. They even surprised me by getting my crumpled jacket dry-cleaned! Truly amazing hospitality!

One of many gold shops at Sulaimaniyah souk.

One of many gold shops at Sulaimaniyah souk.

For those who wish to visit Iraq, but are not keen on venturing into federal Iraq (which will be covered in my next Travel Guide), Iraqi Kurdistan offers a ‘lite’ version of Iraq. Security and safety are not an issue here.

Whereas there is still a heavy military presence on the streets of federal Iraq, you will see little military in Iraqi Kurdistan. If you are comfortable travelling in places like Jordan, Turkey or Egypt, you’ll feel totally comfortable travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan.

An elderly Kurdish porter at Sulaimaniyah souk.

An elderly Kurdish porter at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Crime is non-existent in Iraqi Kurdistan! Never did I feel unsafe or threatened!

Money changers at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks sit on the footpath with glass cabinets full of wads of currency, including bundles of US$100 notes. Never is crime a concern in this part of the world!

As was explained to me by a Kurd, over one of many glasses of sweet tea, you could leave your car unlocked, on the street, all night and no one will touch it!

Whenever shopkeepers inside the souk leave their shop for lunch or prayer, they never lock-up but simply place an object in the doorway to indicate that the shop is temporarily closed. No one would ever think of entering the shop!

The Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah during the magical blue hour.

The Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah during the magical blue hour.

As an autonomous region, Iraqi Kurdistan has its own government – the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG) and has its own immigration policy, which is separate to that of Iraq.

If you enter Iraqi Kurdistan, you will receive a visa which is only valid for travel inside Iraqi Kurdistan. You cannot enter federal Iraq using this visa.

You must also be careful when taking long distance taxis in Kurdistan as some of them transit through federal Iraq – which you cannot do if you are travelling on a Kurdistan visa.

An Iraqi visa however, is valid for travel everywhere inside Iraq – including Iraqi Kurdistan. If you plan to travel to both Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, it makes sense to first enter through federal Iraq where you will only need to purchase one visa (US$77), rather than two! More on this in the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.

Location

Erbil, Iraq

 

Iraqi Kurdistan, also known as Southern Kurdistan, refers to the Kurdish-populated region of northern Iraq.

A map showing Iraqi Kurdistan, in red, and its neighbours.

A map showing Iraqi Kurdistan, in red, and its neighbours.

An autonomous region, which functions separately to ‘Federal’ Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan is comprised of the four governorates of Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok and Halabja.

A map of Western Asia, which highlights the region of Kurdistan in beige. <br /> <i>Source: Wikipedia.</i>

A map of Western Asia, which highlights the region of Kurdistan in beige.
Source: Wikipedia.

Located in Western Asia, Iraqi Kurdistan is one of the four parts of the trans-national “Kurdistan”, which also includes Northern Kurdistan in south-eastern Turkey, Western Kurdistan in northern Syria and Eastern Kurdistan in north-western Iran.

People

Young Kurdish boys visiting Erbil citadel.

Young Kurdish boys visiting Erbil citadel.

Iraqi Kurdistan is home to approximately six million Kurds, who represent 15% of the total population of Iraq (40,000,000).

Completed in 2007, the striking, Jalil Khayat Mosque, is a Sunni Islamic Mosque in Erbil.

Completed in 2007, the striking, Jalil Khayat Mosque, is a Sunni Islamic Mosque in Erbil.

Nearly all Iraqi Kurds consider themselves Sunni Muslims, with 98% of Kurds in Iraq identifying themselves as Sunnis and only 2% identifying themselves as Shias.

Apart from the Kurds living in Iraqi Kurdistan, around 300,000 Kurds live in the Iraqi capital Baghdad – 50,000 in the city of Mosul and around 100,000 elsewhere in Federal Iraq.

The 'Story of Iraqi Kurdistan' as illustrated on a hand-woven carpet at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

The ‘Story of Iraqi Kurdistan’ as illustrated on a hand-woven carpet at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

The total population of greater Kurdistan is estimated to be between 25 and 35 million, making the Kurds the fourth-largest ethnic group in the Middle East.

A tailor, with his two sons, inside Erbil souk.

A tailor, with his two sons, inside Erbil souk.

The Iraqi Kurds have historically enjoyed more national rights than Kurds living in neighbouring states.

Kurdish skullcaps on display at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

Kurdish skullcaps on display at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

Meanwhile, across the border in Turkey, the Turkish government continues a 40+ year battle against the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), a rebel group who are fighting for an independent Kurdistan state within Turkey.

A Kurdish tailor at Erbil market, wearing traditional clothing.

A Kurdish tailor at Erbil market, wearing traditional clothing.

One security threat to Iraqi Kurdistan today comes from the Turkish military, who occasionally launch attacks against supposed PKK bases which are located inside Iraqi Kurdistan.

Kurdish Cinema

Lina Raza, the Program Director of the Slemani International Film Festival, inside Cinema Salim.

Lina Raza, the Program Director of the Slemani International Film Festival, inside Cinema Salim.

Kurdish arthouse cinema is centred around the Cinema Salim in Sulaimaniyah (Slemani).

The driving force behind Kurdish films, and documentaries, is the wonderful Lina Raza, an Iraqi Kurd who maintains residences in Sulaimaniyah, London and Stockholm.

When she’s not treading the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival, Lina is the Program Director of the annual Slemani International Film Festival which showcases both World and Kurdish cinema.

Lina Raza, displaying the Golden Pine Cone which is awarded at the Slemani International Film Festival.

Lina Raza, displaying the Golden Pine Cone which is awarded at the Slemani International Film Festival.

While Cannes awards its Palme d’Or (“Golden Palm”), the Slemani festival awards a Golden Pine Cone.

If you’re interested in catching the latest Kurdish arthouse offerings, movies are screened every day at Cinema Salim.

History

Settled more than 6,000 years ago, Erbil Citadel is thought to be one of the longest continuously inhabited sites in the world.

Settled more than 6,000 years ago, Erbil Citadel is thought to be one of the longest continuously inhabited sites in the world.

Ancient Iraq 

During ancient times, lands that now constitute Iraq were known as Mesopotamia (“Land Between the Rivers”), a region whose extensive alluvial plains gave rise to some of the world’s earliest civilizations and empires since the 6th millennium BC.

The “Cradle of Civilisation” is a common term for the area comprising modern Iraq and was the birthplace of many valuable inventions and discoveries, including writing system, mathematics, time, calendar, astrology and law code.

The capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, Erbil, is centred around Erbil Citadel which has been the sight of settlement for more than 6,000 years.

Kurdistan and the Kurds

A statue, in Erbil, of Masoud Barzani, president of Iraqi Kurdistan from 2005 to 2017.

A statue, in Erbil, of Masoud Barzani, president of Iraqi Kurdistan from 2005 to 2017.

The Kurdish people are originally an Iranian ethnic group who are native to the mountainous region of Kurdistan in Western Asia, which spans south-eastern Turkey, north-western Iran, northern Iraq, and northern Syria.

After World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, the victorious Western allies made provision for a Kurdish state in the 1920 Treaty of Sèvres.

However, that promise was broken three years later, when the Treaty of Lausanne set the boundaries of modern Turkey and made no provision for a Kurdish state, leaving Kurds with minority status in all of the new countries.

The Kurds of Iraq came under British colonial rule after the defeat of the Ottoman Empire in 1918. Frustrated in their hopes for independence, Kurdish leaders launched a series of rebellions against British and subsequent Iraqi rule.

These rebellions were ruthlessly quashed, most notoriously in the late 1980s when Saddam Hussein attacked the Kurds with armed forces. This involved the deliberate targeting of civilians with chemical weapons, most notoriously in the town of Halabja in 1988.

Street art in Erbil speaks of a turbulent history.

Street art in Erbil speaks of a turbulent history.

US-led Invasion

Throughout history, various Iraqi governments promised autonomy to the Kurds, but none of these promises came to fruition until the anti-Saddam international coalition, led by the United States, established a partial no-fly zone in northern Iraq in 1991 after the first Gulf War.

This allowed Kurdish leaders, and their Peshmerga armed forces, to consolidate their hold on the north after Iraqi forces withdrew, and provided the basis for the 2005 constitutional settlement, which recognised an autonomous Kurdistan region in the north of the country, run by the Kurdistan Regional Government.

Iraqi Kurds played an important role in the Iraq War and were important allies of the US military. Kurdish parties joined forces against the Iraqi government during the war in the Spring of 2003, with Peshmerga forces playing an important role in the overthrow of the Iraqi government.

Pro-Independence Vote

On the 25th of September 2017, Iraqi Kurds voted overwhelmingly (92.73%) for independence in a non-binding referendum.

This angered Baghdad, which moved to reassert its authority by recaptured territory held by the Kurds outside their autonomous region. It also seized control of oilfields that are the lifeblood of the Kurdish economy and imposed an air blockade that held for six months.

Flag

The flag of Kurdistan.

The flag of Kurdistan.

The flag of Kurdistan was created by the Society for the Rise of Kurdistan in 1920. The Kurdish flag is the most important symbol of Kurdish identity and, since it was first hoisted in 1946, has become a symbol of the national identity of the Kurds.

The flag of Kurdistan, flying over Erbil citadel.

The flag of Kurdistan, flying over Erbil citadel.

The design of the flag includes:

  • A red field which symbolises ‘the blood of the martyrs and the continued struggle for freedom and dignity‘.
  • A white field which symbolises ‘peace and equality‘.
  • A green field which symbolises ‘the beauty and landscapes of Kurdistan‘.
Kurdistan flag skullcaps, on sale at Erbil souk.

Kurdistan flag skullcaps, on sale at Erbil souk.

Superimposed over the top of the three bands is a golden, 21-ray sun, a symbol which has been used by Kurds since antiquity. The number ’21’ is a venerated number by the Kurds, representing rebirth/ renaissance in the ancient and native Kurdish religion of Yazdanism.

Currency

My 100 uncirculated, IQD 250, bank notes.

My 100 uncirculated, IQD 250, bank notes.

The official currency of Iraqi Kurdistan is the Iraqi dinar (IQD).

Current bank notes, which are issued by the Central Bank of Iraq, include IQD 250; 500; 1,000; 5,000; 10,000; 25,000 – and the rarely seen 50,000.

Iraqi dinar bank notes.

Iraqi dinar bank notes.

If you’re interested in getting your hands on a brand-new IQD 50,000 note, I often received these from Bank of Baghdad ATMs.

Iraqi IQD 50,000 bank notes.

Iraqi IQD 50,000 bank notes.

The Iraqi dinar isn’t a free-floating currency, with the exchange rate set by the Iraqi government at US$1 = IQD 1,460. This exchange rate is factored into government budgets until at least 2026.

Iraqi IQD 25,000 bank notes.

Iraqi IQD 25,000 bank notes.

Exchange Rates

The current exchange rate of the Iraqi dinar against US $100 and €100 are:

USD $100 = IQD 146,000

EUR €100 = IQD 149,300

Saddam Hussein Dinars

Saddam Hussein dinars make for an interesting souvenir.

Saddam Hussein dinars make for an interesting souvenir.

Prior to the 1st Gulf War in 1990, high quality Iraqi dinar bank notes were printed in the United Kingdom by Thomas De La Rue.

Following the introduction of United Nations sanctions after the war, Iraq was no longer able to place currency orders with Thomas De La Rue.

A new series of bank notes were printed locally, which featured a portrait of Saddam Hussein. Known as “Saddam dinars”, the notes were of inferior quality, compared to the former UK-made bank notes, which then become known as “Swiss dinars”.

Due to prolonged international sanctions on Iraq, along with excessive government currency printing, the Saddam dinar quickly became worthless.

After Saddam Hussein was deposed in the 2003 invasion of Iraq, the Iraqi government printed more Saddam dinar notes as a stopgap measure to maintain the money supply until a new currency could be introduced.

The market had become flooded with worthless Saddam dinars. 

Wads of Saddam Hussein diners at a money exchange in Erbil souk.

Wads of Saddam Hussein diners at a money exchange in Erbil souk.

Between 2003 and 2004, the Coalition Provisional Authority issued new Iraqi dinar notes, which were printed, once again, by Thomas De La Rue in the UK.

Trillions of new dinars were shipped to Iraq and exchanged for the old Saddam dinar notes at par value.

Today, wads of Saddam Hussein dinar notes can be found at money changers at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks and are popular souvenirs.

Each note can be purchased for IQD 1,000 (USD$0.68), making them more valuable as a souvenir than what they were when in circulation.

Banking Services

Credit Cards

The Family Mall in Sulaimaniyah, where almost all stores, including department stores, accept cash only!

The Family Mall in Sulaimaniyah, where almost all stores, including department stores, accept cash only!

Iraqi Kurdistan is a cash society. Credit cards are accepted almost nowhere!

While shopping malls in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah feature prominent international brands like Blackberry, GEOX, Samsonite, Merrell, DKNY, Armani, Levi’s and Mango, none of these stores accept credit cards. All payments are to be made in cash!

The only place I was able to use my credit card in Iraqi Kurdistan was at the Erbil View Hotel, my wonderful hotel in Erbil.

ATMs

ATMs at the Family Mall in Erbil are hidden away inside the cinema complex.

ATMs at the Family Mall in Erbil are hidden away inside the cinema complex.

You will never find an ATM on the street in Iraqi Kurdistan. ATMs are only found inside the larger shopping malls and at the two international airports – Erbil and Sulaimaniyah.

In all malls, the ATMs are hidden away in an obscure corner – finding them is like a treasure hunt!

A rare sight in Iraqi Kurdistan - a bank branch inside Family Mall in Erbil.

A rare sight in Iraqi Kurdistan – a bank branch inside Family Mall in Erbil.

Bank branches are also non-existent, with informal money changers providing money exchange services on the street.

I did find a branch of the Kurdistan International Bank inside the Family mall in Erbil, although their ATM’s do not accept foreign credit cards.

Not all banks are on the international network. The two banks which I found to be most reliable, and whose ATM’s accept international credit cards (i.e. Mastercard and Visa), are the Bank of Baghdad and Cihan Bank.

ATM’s can be found inside the Family Mall in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah, and inside most other large malls.

Sightseeing

Erbil

Souvenir shops opposite Erbil souk.

Souvenir shops opposite Erbil souk.

Home to 1.5 million friendly souls, Erbil is the capital and largest city of Iraqi Kurdistan. The city is centred around the ancient Erbil Citadel which has been occupied for more than 6,000 years!

Tailors, inside Erbil souk.

Tailors, inside Erbil souk.

Alongside the citadel are the Ottoman-era Erbil souk, the centre of commercial activity and the popular Fountains of Shar Park which comes to life around sunset.

Erbil Citadel

Settled for more than 6,000 years, Erbil Citadel is one of the longest, continuously inhabited, places on Earth.

Settled for more than 6,000 years, Erbil Citadel is one of the longest, continuously inhabited, places on Earth.

Located at the heart of Erbil city, Erbil Citadel is located atop an ancient tell, or occupied mound, which has been the scene of continuous settlement for more than 6,000 years. Archaeologists believe that layers of history lay buried beneath the tell.

The earliest evidence for occupation of the citadel mound dates to the 5th millennium BC, and possibly earlier. The citadel gained particular importance during the Neo-Assyrian period.

A giant flagpole stands at the centre of Erbil Citadel.

A giant flagpole stands at the centre of Erbil Citadel.

Erbil Citadel thrived until the Mongols arrived in 1258 CE. They captured the citadel and sacked the city, sending it into decline.

The citadel, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, has, unfortunately, been reconstructed in many places.

This reconstruction is currently ongoing, which seems to go against the rules for a World Heritage Site. The government plans to have 50 families live in the citadel once it is renovated.

Historic buildings inside Erbil Citadel.

Historic buildings inside Erbil Citadel.

The citadel is home to the Kurdish Textile Museum which shouldn’t be missed. Also nearby is the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum which features both local and international gemstones.

Opening Times:

Entrance to the citadel, which is free of charge, is possible via two ramps between the hours of 9 am and 7 pm.

Kurdish Textile Museum

The Kurdish Textile Museum is a museum devoted to textiles produced in Iraqi Kurdistan.

The Kurdish Textile Museum is a museum devoted to textiles produced in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Located inside a renovated mansion at Erbil Citadel, the Kurdish Textile Museum displays a collection of Kurdish textiles, including a dazzling array of carpets.

As a keen collector of handwoven, oriental carpets, I found the Kurdish Textile Museum to be fascinating.

As a keen collector of handwoven, oriental carpets, I found the Kurdish Textile Museum to be fascinating.

As a keen collector of oriental carpets, I found the displays here to be fascinating, especially the collection of truly unique felt carpets.

The carpets are from a private collection, which is owned by a Kurdish family, who have sourced much material from Iranian Kurdistan, since carpet production is limited in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Flat weave, kilim carpets, at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

Flat weave, kilim carpets, at the Kurdish Textile Museum in Erbil.

Opening Times: The Kurdish Textile Museum is open every day, except Friday, between 9 am and 6 pm. Entrance costs IQD1,000.

Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum

One of the display rooms at the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum, which is located inside Erbil Citadel.

One of the display rooms at the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum, which is located inside Erbil Citadel.

Located across from the Kurdish Textile Museum, the Erbil Stones & Gemstones Museum is literally the ‘jewel’ of Erbil Citadel.

Souvenir gemstone keyrings for sale in the gift shop at the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum.

Souvenir gemstone keyrings for sale in the gift shop at the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum.

This small museum is home to a collection of stones and gemstones which have been found in Kurdistan and further afield. The air-conditioned display rooms offer a wonderful respite from the blistering heat of Erbil.

Opening Times: Like the adjacent Kurdish Textile Museum, the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum is open every day, except Friday, between 9 am and 6 pm. Entrance costs IQD1,000.

Erbil Souk

Built during the Ottoman era, Erbil souk is the centre of commercial activity in the capital.

Built during the Ottoman era, Erbil souk is the centre of commercial activity in the capital.

Lying in the shadow of Erbil Citadel, the sprawling Erbil Souk has been the commercial heart of Erbil for centuries. The current, charming bizarre, dates from the more recent Ottoman era.

Turkish delight is a popular product at Erbil souk.

Turkish delight is a popular product at Erbil souk.

Tucked away in the rabbit-warren of cool, covered laneways are shops selling absolutely everything. The souk is open all day and it a great place to escape the blistering midday heat.

Shops selling nuts and dried fruit are very popular at Erbil souk.

Shops selling nuts and dried fruit are very popular at Erbil souk.

Especially popular are shops which sell mountains of freshly made Turkish Delight (lokum), dried fruits, nuts, local goat cheese, honey, homemade yoghurts and much more.

Due to the charm, variety and reasonable prices found at both Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks, the modern malls which have recently been built, are normally deserted, with local shoppers clearly preferring to shop at the more traditional souk.

One of the many entrances to Erbil souk.

One of the many entrances to Erbil souk.

While the souk is crammed with stores selling modern appliances and gadgets, there are areas where traditional crafts, such as woodworking, and goldsmithing are still practiced.

One section of Erbil souk is home to many gold shops.

One section of Erbil souk is home to many gold shops.

The gold souk is lined with many shops, whose dazzling window displays entice keen shoppers.

A hijab (head scarf) shop inside Erbil souk.

A hijab (head scarf) shop inside Erbil souk.

Another large section of the souk includes the textile section where you can find woman shopping for clothes and head dresses.

Fountains of Shar Park

A view of the Fountains of Shar Park from Erbil Citadel.

A view of the Fountains of Shar Park from Erbil Citadel.

The small, but hugely popular, Fountains of Shar Park lie in the shadow of Erbil Citadel and across the road from the bustling souk.

Normally quiet during the day, the fountains are turned on around 5 pm, in time for the masses who arrive prior to sunset, to appreciate the cool breezes which are generated by the fountains.

A girl feeding pigeons in the Fountains of Shar Park.

A girl feeding pigeons in the Fountains of Shar Park.

As the sun sets, the park becomes a veritable carnival, complete with balloon sellers, fairy-floss sellers and coffee vendors, who pour coffee from large brass pots which are strapped to their backs.

Jalil Khayat Mosque

The stunning interior of the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

The stunning interior of the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

A definite highlight of Erbil is the truly dazzling Jalil Khayat Mosque, which was completed in 2007.

The exterior of the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

The exterior of the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

A Sunni Islamic Mosque, it was begun by Jalil Khayat who died in 2005. The mosque was completed two years later by his sons in memory of their father.

A photographer's dream - the incredibly ornate Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

A photographer’s dream – the incredibly ornate Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

With a jaw-droppingly beautiful interior, the mosque’s style resembles the Mosque of Muhammad Ali in Cairo and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

When I visited, the mosque was closed but the caretaker opened it so I could take some photos.

When I visited, the mosque was closed but the caretaker opened it so I could take some photos.

Widely regarded as having one of the most beautiful interiors of any mosque, the Jalil Khayat Mosque is 15,000 square metres (160,000 square ft) and holds up to 2,000 people.

Stained-glass windows at the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

Stained-glass windows at the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil.

Access:

The entire mosque complex is enclosed inside a high, ornate, cast-iron fence. When I visited, all gates were locked and there wasn’t a soul in sight.

I found a small entrance gate on the main street (opposite the mall) which was open. Inside this gate is a small air-conditioned office which is where the caretaker can be found. He opened the mosque for me so I could take photos. Normally the mosque is only open at prayer times.

This was a highlight of Erbil! 

Mudhafaria Minaret

The 36-metre high Mudhafaria Minaret dates from the 12th century CE.

The 36-metre high Mudhafaria Minaret dates from the 12th century CE.

Located in Minaret Park, the 36-metre high Mudhafaria Minaret dates from the late 12th century AD. It features an octagonal base decorated with two tiers of niches, which is separated from the main shaft by a small balcony.

Sulaymaniyah

One of many honey sellers at Sulaimaniyah souk.

One of many honey sellers at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Known as Sulaymaniyah, Slemani, Suli, Sulaimaniyah and even Sulaimani, the 2nd largest city of Iraqi Kurdistan (population: 740,000) is a charming and inviting place.

If you have to give preference to either Erbil or Sulaymaniyah, I would spend more time in Sulaymaniyah. Whenever you mention Suli to Iraqi Kurds, they will beam with pride and tell you about their ‘city of learning and culture’.

Turkish Delight seller in Sulaimaniyah souk.

Turkish Delight seller in Sulaimaniyah souk.

While Erbil is a big, bustling capital, and is located on a very hot, desert plain, Sulaimaniyah is a leafy, green city, where large, green parks, provide breathing space and the surrounding mountains provide the occasional cool breeze.

Spice seller at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Spice seller at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Sulaymaniyah is home to the University of Sulaimani, one of the most important scientific and cultural institutions in Iraqi Kurdistan. The American University in Iraq also has its campus in Sulaimaniyah.

A vendor at a fruit juice shop, hidden by a wall of fruit, in Sulaimaniyah souk.

A vendor at a fruit juice shop, hidden by a wall of fruit, in Sulaimaniyah souk.

This university town is home to a sizeable student population, who infuse the city with a certain, funky flair. It has a very different ambiance from Erbil.

The cafe at Cinema Selim in Sulaimaniyah - home to the annual Slemani International Film Festival.

The cafe at Cinema Selim in Sulaimaniyah – home to the annual Slemani International Film Festival.

Slemani is also home to a budding Kurdish arthouse cinema scene – please refer to the previous ‘Kurdish Cinema‘ section for more.

Cinema Selim, which is ground zero for Kurdish cinema, plays daily arthouse features. The cinema also serves as the venue for the annual Slemani International Film Festival.

In between screenings, the cinema cafe is a great place to relax, serving very good barista-made coffee.

Sulaimaniyah is home to one of two international airports in Iraqi Kurdistan – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details.  Frequent shared taxis connect Sulaimaniyah with Erbil and most other cities in federal Iraq.

Amna Suraka (Red Jail) Museum

The Hall of Mirrors at the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaimaniyah.

The Hall of Mirrors at the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaimaniyah.

A highlight of Sulaimaniyah is the Amna Suraka (Red Jail) Museum which once served as the northern headquarters (from 1979 to 1991) of Saddam Hussein’s Intelligence Service, known as the Mukhabarat but colloquially referred to as ‘Amn‘.

The buildings at the Amna Suraka Museum are riddled with bullet holes, a reminder of the fierce battle which took place in 1991 between Iraqi and Peshmerga forces.

The buildings at the Amna Suraka Museum are riddled with bullet holes, a reminder of the fierce battle which took place in 1991 between Iraqi and Peshmerga forces.

The buildings on the site, which are riddled with pockmarks from gun fire, were built in 1979 by an East Germany construction company, with many of the buildings looking like they were transplanted from communist East Berlin.

Iraqi tanks, which were captured by Peshmerga fighters, are parked in the courtyard of the Amna Suraka Museum.

Iraqi tanks, which were captured by Peshmerga fighters, are parked in the courtyard of the Amna Suraka Museum.

The grounds of the museum contain tanks and other weapons which the Kurdish Peshmerga forces captured from the Iraqi Army during their liberation of the complex in 1991.

One of the memorial halls at the Amna Suraka Museum is lined with photos of the victims of the Al-Anfal Campaign.

One of the memorial halls at the Amna Suraka Museum is lined with photos of the victims of the Al-Anfal Campaign.

During the Al-Anfal Campaign, in which Saddam Hussein tried to wipe out the Kurdish population, the headquarters were used to imprison and torture thousands of Kurds.

During the 1991 Battle of Sulaimaniyah, Iraqi security officials and soldiers retreated to the Amn headquarters which served as the Baathist stronghold in the city.

After two days of intense fighting, Kurdish Peshmerga forces overran the headquarters. Rebels executed 300 Amn agents, with angry civilians killing many others.

In 2003, the Amna Suraka Museum was opened at the site, to serve as a reminder of the atrocities which had taken place under Saddam’s rule.

Of the various buildings in the museum complex, a highlight is the Hall of Mirrors which is lined with 182,000 shards of glass, each commemorating Kurds killed during the genocidal Al-Anfal Campaign. The hall also contains 4,500 backlights to represent the number of Kurdish villages destroyed during the campaign.

Other memorial halls contain photos and the names of thousands of Kurds who died as a result of the Al-Anfal Campaign.

A memorial hall at the Amna Suraka Museum lists the names of tens of thousands of Kurds killed during the Al-Anfal Campaign.

A memorial hall at the Amna Suraka Museum lists the names of tens of thousands of Kurds killed during the Al-Anfal Campaign.

At the rear of the complex is the former jail house which has been left largely untouched.

What could be described as a ‘house of horrors’, the former jail house is lined with small cells which were crammed beyond capacity.

A former jail cell inside the prison house. Cells designed to accommodate 10 prisoners were often crammed with 50 prisoners.

A former jail cell inside the prison house. Cells designed to accommodate 10 prisoners were often crammed with 50 prisoners.

Each cell had just one small window for ventilation near the ceiling. On the day I visited, the temperature outside was close to 50 degrees Celsius.

Cells, which were designed to hold 10 people, often held 50, with prisoners taking it in turns to sleep on the floor.

This wood-panelled room, inside the jail house, was used to torture prisoners.

This wood-panelled room, inside the jail house, was used to torture prisoners.

While all the walls of the prison are cold, exposed concrete, one room stands out due to its warm, wood panelling.

Rather than being an inviting space, this room was used to torture prisoners.

A house of horrors - the former jail house at the Amna Suraka Museum.

A house of horrors – the former jail house at the Amna Suraka Museum.

The museum is a necessary, albeit harrowing, reflection of the large-scale oppression that the Kurds suffered under the rule of Saddam Hussein.

One of the most important museums in Iraqi Kurdistan! 

"Vase of Flowers" graffiti, drawn by a former prisoner on the wall of one of the cells inside the jail house at the Amna Suraka museum.

“Vase of Flowers” graffiti, drawn by a former prisoner on the wall of one of the cells inside the jail house at the Amna Suraka museum.

Access:

Located in the suburbs of Sulaimaniyah, the museum is free of charge and is open six days a week, but closed each day for lunch from 12 pm to 1 pm.

Sulaymaniyah Souk

The large and sprawling Sulaimaniyah souk covers all of the downtown area.

The large and sprawling Sulaimaniyah souk covers all of the downtown area.

Sulaymaniyah’s souk (bazaar) is without a doubt, the largest traditional market in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Textile shop at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Textile shop at Sulaimaniyah souk.

The souk covers the entire downtown area of the city, with covered laneways stretching for kilometres in every direction.

Women, shopping for clothes and textiles at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Women, shopping for clothes and textiles at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Outside on the busy streets, the souk spreads its tentacles even further, with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, pets, clothing, shoes and so much more.

Small trucks, laden with melons and other produce occupy any available parking spaces. It’s a wonderfully intoxicating scene and, if you walk around with your camera out, everyone will be asking for their photo to be taken.

A tomato vendor in Sulaimaniyah, who really wanted his photo taken.

A tomato vendor in Sulaimaniyah, who really wanted his photo taken.

The busiest time for the market is later in the afternoon once the blistering heat has waned.

At around 7 pm, the evening ‘call to prayer’ rings out over the city, marking the official closing time for the market.

Another produce vendor, who wouldn't let me pass until I had taken his photo.

Another produce vendor, who wouldn’t let me pass until I had taken his photo.

 

Perfume shops in Sulaimaniyah souk offer the bases for all famous perfume brands, with a 50 ml bottle costing US$10.

Perfume shops in Sulaimaniyah souk offer the bases for all famous perfume brands, with a 50 ml bottle costing US$10.

 

A nut roaster at the Sulaimaniyah souk.

A nut roaster at the Sulaimaniyah souk.

 

The gold market Sulaimaniyah souk is comprised of many laneways of goldsmiths.

The gold market Sulaimaniyah souk is comprised of many laneways of goldsmiths.

 

Spices for sale at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Spices for sale at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah

The minaret of the Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah reminded me of minarets I'd seen in Uzbekistan.

The minaret of the Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah reminded me of minarets I’d seen in Uzbekistan.

Located in the heart of the old town, the Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah is one of the oldest mosques in the city.

It’s partially-tiled minaret is especially beautiful and is best photographed around sunset.

Chavi Land

"Chavi Land" is less 'fun park' and more 'forlorn park'.

“Chavi Land” is less ‘fun park’ and more ‘forlorn park’.

Located on a hill overlooking Sulaimaniyah is the rather depressing Chavi Land. What bills itself as a family ‘fun park’ has a distinctly forlorn feel to it. It’s all a little run down and poorly maintained. The toilets definitely should be avoided!

I arrived at 5 pm, in order to ride the teleferic (cable car) up onto the nearby mountain to take photos of the sun setting over Sulaimaniyah.

One way to beat the intense heat, amusements at Chavi Land are housed inside a large, air-conditioned, hall.

One way to beat the intense heat, amusements at Chavi Land are housed inside a large, air-conditioned, hall.

Due to yet another power outage (they occur regularly, about every hour, in Iraqi Kurdistan), nothing in the park was operating. An amusement park without any amusements!

I waited at the cable car station until the sun had set before returning to the city.

Halabja

Halabja Monument and Peace Museum

Halabja Monument and Peace Museum pays homage to the victims of this horrific attack.

Halabja Monument and Peace Museum pays homage to the victims of this horrific attack.

Located in a far corner of Iraqi Kurdistan, close to the Iranian border, the otherwise non-descript town of Halabja made world news headlines in 1988, during the closing days of the Iran-Iraq war.

A display at the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum.

A display at the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum.

The town was the scene for a truly crazy act carried out by a crazed dictator, Saddam Hussein, who ordered the Iraqi Air Force to drop bombs containing lethal chemical weapons on the civilian population.

The main hall of the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum.

The main hall of the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum.

The attack, which took place on the 16th of March 1988, was part of the Al-Anfal Campaign, a campaign conducted by Saddam Hussein who was determined to exterminate the entire Kurdish population – who numbered around 8,000,000 at the time!

The attack was also an attempt to repel the Iranian Army, who had captured Halabja just 48 hours prior.

The incident was the largest chemical weapons attack directed against a civilian-populated area in history, and resulted in the deaths of between 3,200 and 5,000 people and injured 7,000 to 10,000 more.

A UN investigation concluded that mustard gas, along with other unknown chemical weapons, had been used in the attack.

Located on the outskirts of town, as you drive in on the main road from Sulaimaniyah, the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum pays homage to the victims of this horrific attack.

The original fighter jet, which dropped the chemical weapons on Halabja, is one of the displays at the museum.

The original fighter jet, which dropped the chemical weapons on Halabja, is one of the displays at the museum.

The main hall of the museum contains the names of the victims, while outside, the original fighter jet which dropped the chemical bombs is on display.

Access:

The Halabja Monument and Peace Museum, which is free of charge, is open every day between 8 am and 12 pm, and then from 1 pm to 5 pm.

Getting There:

Halabja is located at the end of the road in Iraqi Kurdistan, inside a wide valley, surrounded by Iran.

Shared taxis from Sulaimaniyah cover the 73 km distance in one hour. It’s an easy day trip from Sulaimaniyah! A single seat, in a 4-seater taxi, costs IQD 10,000.

Accommodation

There’s no shortage of excellent mid-range and top-end hotels in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. For backpackers, there is just one hostel in Iraqi Kurdistan which is the Dolphin hostel in Sulaymaniyah.

Due to the compact size of Iraqi Kurdistan, it’s possible to base yourself in the two main cities and then do day trips from there.

Many accommodation OTA’s (Online Travel Agents) do not cover Iraq. Booking.com is one OTA which does provide coverage of Iraq. 

Erbil

My room at the Erbil View Hotel.

My room at the Erbil View Hotel.

While in Erbil, I stayed at the excellent Erbil View Hotel. I rated this hotel 10/10 on booking.com – it is excellent in every respect.

The breakfast buffet at the Erbil View hotel.

The breakfast buffet at the Erbil View hotel.

The friendly and helpful staff at the hotel assured me that the Erbil View Hotel was my home away from home. I was made to feel welcome at all times. The rooms are comfortable and included a daily breakfast buffet.

While there are no restaurants in the area, the hotel restaurant serves excellent meals in the evening and also offers room service.

Erbil citadel and souk are a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

Sulaymaniyah

My room at the Khan Saray Hotel in Sulaimaniyah.

My room at the Khan Saray Hotel in Sulaimaniyah.

Located in the heart of Sulaimaniyah old town, the excellent Khan Saray Hotel is the kind of hotel you never want to leave. I extended my stay several times.

The beautiful Khan Saray Hotel where I paid just US$28 per night!

The beautiful Khan Saray Hotel where I paid just US$28 per night!

I booked the 1st night on booking.com at US$40. I then negotiated a direct rate of US$28 for subsequent nights. This represented excellent value, and included an amazing breakfast in the hotel restaurant.

My spacious room at the Khan Saray Hotel in Sulaimaniyah.

My spacious room at the Khan Saray Hotel in Sulaimaniyah.

My large, spacious room faced inward to a shopping mall, which ensured that the room was nice and quiet. Outside, the sprawling souk surrounds the hotel. Everything is within walking distance from the hotel.

Highly Recommended!

Eating Out

Produce vendor at Sulaimaniyah souk. Iraqi Kurdistan has an abundance of fresh, tasty produce!

Produce vendor at Sulaimaniyah souk. Iraqi Kurdistan has an abundance of fresh, tasty produce!

The cuisine of Iraqi Kurdistan is the same as that found throughout the region – lots of kebabs, and other grilled meats, served with freshly baked Khubz (flatbread), pickled vegetables and salad.

Kebabs are served for lunch and dinner, either as Shish kebab or as a sandwich.

Baking Khubz (flatbread) in a traditional tannour (Tandoor oven) in Sulaimaniyah.

Baking khubz (flatbread) in a traditional tannour (tandoor oven) in Sulaimaniyah.

Popular breakfast items include lentil soup, boiled eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, freshly made local yoghurt (often served with a drizzle of locally sourced honey), goat’s cheese and much more.

I could happily eat a Kurdish breakfast every day!

Truly unique! A honeycomb flatbread bakery in Sulaimaniyah souk.

Truly unique! A honeycomb flatbread bakery in Sulaimaniyah souk.

All of this is served with an ample amount of warm, freshly baked Khubz.


Khubz tannour (flatbread)

What rice is to the Asians, Khubz (flatbread) is to the Kurds – a staple which is served, always freshly baked, at all meals.

Most bakeries in Iraqi Kurdistan bake their Khubz using traditional tandoor ovens, known locally as tannour. The bread spends less than one minute inside the oven before its ready to serve!

The following video was taken in a bakery in Sulaimaniyah, where the baker’s worked non-stop, throughout the day, producing a mountain of Khubz.

The finished bread is always laid out on a table at the front of the bakery and disappears as quickly as it’s produced – snapped up by hungry locals.

 


Restaurants

Typical meal of shish kebab, salad, pickled vegetables and flat bread.

Typical meal of shish kebab, salad, pickled vegetables and flat bread.

Erbil

Mince-meat shish kebabs, being prepared for lunch, in a restaurant inside Erbil souk.

Mince-meat shish kebabs, being prepared for lunch, in a restaurant inside Erbil souk.

Strangely, the streets of downtown Erbil seem to lack restaurants. The best place to look for a meal is inside the souk where a number of restaurants serve typical Kurdish food.

Sulaimaniyah

The friendly server at a restaurant in Sulaimaniyah.

The friendly server at a restaurant in Sulaimaniyah.

While restaurants are scarce in Erbil, there’s no shortage of places to eat in Sulaimaniyah. The standard food is minced-meat shish kebabs which are always served with a side salad of tomatoes and white onions, served both grilled and raw.

Apart from kebabs, many restaurants offer freshly roasted chicken which makes for a nice break.

Freshly baked flatbread is served with all meals, and is used instead of utensils, to either scoop up or pull food apart.

Halabja

Lunch in Halabja - roast chicken, served with stewed apricots and other sides.

Lunch in Halabja – roast chicken, served with stewed apricots and other sides.

Tiny Halabja offers at least one amazing restaurant which is located in the centre of town – every taxi driver knows the place and will drop you there!

Since the genocide museum is closed between 12 pm and 1 pm, the restaurant is a great place to relax and unwind.

The proud chef, at my lunch restaurant in Halabja.

The proud chef, at my lunch restaurant in Halabja.

My lunch consisted of the most succulent roasted chicken which was served with various sides, including stewed apricots. Delicious!

Cafés/ Tea Shops

Erbil

One of many cups of sweet tea which I drank while in Iraqi Kurdistan.

One of many cups of sweet tea which I drank while in Iraqi Kurdistan.

The staple refresher in Iraqi Kurdistan is sweet black tea, which is always served boiling hot, in small glasses.

This historic, and popular, tea shop is built into the walls of Erbil Citadel.

This historic, and popular, tea shop is built into the walls of Erbil Citadel.

If you try to pick up the glass too soon, you’ll burn your fingers. Locals get around this by pouring a small portion of tea into the plastic saucer and slurping it from the there.

Before pouring the tea, two heaped spoons of sugar are added!

Wonderful coffee can be enjoyed at the tiny 'Yolo Coffee', which is hidden away inside Erbil souk.

Wonderful coffee can be enjoyed at the tiny ‘Yolo Coffee’, which is hidden away inside Erbil souk.

Hidden away inside the busy laneways of Erbil souk are numerous coffee and tea houses which offer respite from all the hustle and bustle.

I especially recommend the excellent Yolo Coffee which is operated by a team of friendly Indians, who loved to talk about cricket with their regular Australian customer. I stopped by most days for my caffeine fix!

Coffee shop in Erbil souk.

Coffee shop in Erbil souk.

Not to be outdone, the many tea houses inside Erbil souk are a great place to rub shoulders with the locals.

One of numerous tea sellers inside Erbil Souk. Notice that he can pour while posing for the camera. Talented!

One of numerous tea sellers inside Erbil Souk. Notice that he can pour while posing for the camera. Talented!

I always had my camera out while in Erbil souk and everyone wanted their photo taken. Thanks to WhatsApp and Instagram, I’m able to send people their photos which is highly appreciated.

Sulaimaniyah

The walls of this groovy downtown cafe in Sulaimaniyah are decorated with books.

The walls of this groovy downtown cafe in Sulaimaniyah are decorated with books.

As with Erbil, there are many coffee and tea shops hidden away inside the rabbit-warren of covered laneways which comprise Sulaimaniyah souk.

The student population is responsible for many fine cafes in Sulaimaniyah, which is possibly the most cosmopolitan city in all of Iraq.

Tea sellers at Sulaimaniyah souk.

Tea sellers at Sulaimaniyah souk.

A line of locals outside one cafe in Sulaimaniyah souk led me to discover the most divine desert – a piece of freshly baked baklava, crumbled into a bowl of freshly made, warm custard.

Truly divine! Baklava crumbled over a bowl of warm custard at Sulaimaniyah souk!

Truly divine! Baklava crumbled over a bowl of warm custard at Sulaimaniyah souk!

Truly divine and, as is common in Iraqi Kurdistan, the cafe owner refused to accept payment from me.

Bars/ Alcohol

While there are no bars in Iraqi Kurdistan, there are some bottle shops where alcohol can be purchased.

Visa Requirements

My Iraqi Kurdistan visa-on-arrival.

My Iraqi Kurdistan visa-on-arrival.

As an autonomous region of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan enforces its own visa policy, with nationals of many countries able to apply for a Visa on Arrival (VOA) which is valid for 30-days.

Visas are issued at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah International airports from the Visa desk in the immigration hall. A 30-day visa costs US$77 which can be paid in either USD or Euro cash. Credit cards are not accepted!

It’s important to note that a visa issued in Iraqi Kurdistan is only valid for travel within Iraqi Kurdistan. However, a visa issued in federal Iraq is valid for travel everywhere in Iraq, including Iraqi Kurdistan.

You cannot travel into federal Iraq using an Iraqi Kurdistan visa.  

If you are planning to visit both Iraqi Kurdistan and federal Iraq, it is best that you make your first entry into federal Iraq since your Iraqi visa is good for travel in all of Iraq, therefore you’ll only need to pay for one visa at US$77.  

If you first enter Iraq through Iraqi Kurdistan, and wish to travel into federal Iraq, you will need to fly into federal Iraq and purchase an additional Iraqi visa at US$77 – i.e., you will need to pay for two visas at US$77 each.  

Note: Many shared taxis in Iraqi Kurdistan transit through federal Iraq during their journey’s. A prime example of this is the journey from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah. There are two ways to travel on this route; either via Tikrit (which is in federal Iraq) or via the town of Dukan (which is in Iraqi Kurdistan).

If you are travelling on an Iraqi Kurdistan visa, you are not allowed to transit through federal Iraq. You need to ensure you travel via Dukan and not Tikrit.

Prior to travelling, you should consult the Iraq Visa Policy.


Important Note Regarding the United States Visa Waiver Program

For non-U.S. passport holders, who normally travel to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP), aka ESTA, the following should be noted:

Travelers in the following categories are no longer eligible to travel or be admitted to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP):

  • Nationals of VWP countries who have traveled to or been present in Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011 (with limited exceptions for travel for diplomatic or military purposes in the service of a VWP country).
  • Nationals of VWP countries who are also nationals of Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, or Syria.

Anyone who has travelled to any of the above listed countries will need to apply for a visa from a United States embassy before being able to visit the United States.


Getting There

Air

Erbil International Airport is one of two international airports in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Erbil International Airport is one of two international airports in Iraqi Kurdistan.

There are currently two international airports operating in Iraqi Kurdistan; Erbil International Airport and Sulaimaniyah International Airport – with a third, Duhok International Airport, under construction.

Airport Security Checks

Due to the special security situation in Iraq, entering an Iraqi airport requires passing through several security checkpoints, before you even reach the terminal. Due to the time involved at each checkpoint, it’s wise to arrive at least 4 hours prior to your departure.

The following steps describe the process for accessing Erbil International airport:

Step 1: All arriving vehicles must first stop at a covered roadside checkpoint.

Everyone must exit the vehicle, all doors must be opened, along with the hood and bonnet.

Security personnel, with sniffer dogs, will inspect the contents of the car, check the engine and the boot compartment to ensure no weapons or bombs are being carried into the airport complex. All passengers receive a pat-down from security staff.

Step 2: Once cleared through the vehicle checkpoint, all passengers travel next to a security screening building which is located about 2 km from the airport terminal. No vehicles are allowed to proceed further beyond this point.

At this point, passengers undergo the first of three full airport security screenings, with all luggage being x-rayed.

Once cleared through security, passengers make their way onto shuttle buses which are parked at the rear of the building. These buses then transfer passengers to the actual terminal.

Step 3: Upon arrival at the terminal, passengers must once again pass through another security screening before entering the terminal.

Step 4: Once inside the terminal, you can check in for your flight.

Step 5: Once you have your boarding pass you can proceed to immigration and then the 3rd, and final, security screening!

Bring your patience!

Erbil International Airport

The departure hall at Erbil International Airport.

The departure hall at Erbil International Airport.

The main gateway to Iraqi Kurdistan is Erbil International Airport (IATA: EBL) which boasts a modern terminal which was completed in 2010. The airport has the distinction of having one of the longest runways in the world at 4,800 m (15,748 ft).

Visas-on-arrival are issued at the airport for certain nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section above for more details).

The following airlines provide services to/from Erbil International Airport:

  • Air Arabia – flies to/from Sharjah
  • AnadoluJet – flies to/from Adana, Diyarbakir, Gaziantep, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • Austrian Airlines – flies to/from Vienna
  • Cham Wings Airlines – flies to/from Damascus
  • Egyptair – flies to/from Cairo
  • Emirates – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • Eurowings – flies to/from Düsseldorf
  • Fly Baghdad – flies to/from Aleppo, Ankara, Baghdad, Damascus, Istanbul, Medina
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • FlyErbil  – flies to/from Baku, Cologne/Bonn, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Hanover, Istanbul, Yerevan
  • Iraqi Airways Amman–Queen Alia, Ankara, Baghdad, Baku, Berlin, Cairo, Copenhagen, Dubai–International, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Munich, Sulaymaniyah
  • Lufthansa – flies to/from Frankfurt
  • Mahan Air – flies to/from Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Middle East Airlines – flies to/from Beirut
  • Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Ankara, Gaziantep, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
  • Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
The modern terminal at Erbil International airport was inaugurated in 2010.

The modern terminal at Erbil International airport was inaugurated in 2010.

Sulaimaniyah International Airport

The 2nd international airport in Iraqi Kurdistan, Sulaimaniyah International Airport (IATA: ISU) is located 14 km (9 mi) outside the city of Sulaimaniyah.

Visas-on-arrival are issued at the airport for certain nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section above for more details).

The following airlines provide services to/from Sulaimaniyah International Airport:

  • Condor – flies to/from Düsseldorf
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • FlyErbil – flies to/from Düsseldorf
  • Iraqi Airways – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia, Baghdad, Baku, Basra, Beirut, Cairo, Dubai–International, Erbil, Frankfurt, London–Gatwick, Najaf, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Mahan Air – flies to/from Kish Island, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
  • Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
  • Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul

Land

It’s possible to travel overland into Iraqi Kurdistan from either Iran, Turkey or federal Iraq.

Getting Around

Important Note:

Whenever travelling on highways in Iraqi Kurdistan, you must carry your passport. This can be requested at the numerous military checkpoints, although many times you will be simply waved through. 

Taxis

Taxis parked outside Erbil Citadel.

Taxis parked outside Erbil Citadel.

The easiest way to get around cities in Iraqi Kurdistan is by taxi. Although not metered, most drivers are honest and charge around IQD 4-5,000 for any trip around town. You should always agree on the fare prior to commencing your journey.

Taxis in Iraq can be identified by their red license plates.

Taxis in Iraq can be identified by their red license plates.

Taxis in Iraqi Kurdistan are easily identified thanks to their large red license plates.

Long-distance Taxis

Long-distance shared taxis waiting at Sulaimaniyah taxi station.

Long-distance shared taxis waiting at Sulaimaniyah taxi station.

The best way to travel between cities in Iraqi Kurdistan is with shared taxis, which depart from long-distance taxi garages.

Taxis carry four passengers, with the fare between Erbil and Sulaimaniyah costing IQD 20,000 per seat.

In Sulaimaniyah, a new taxi garage has recently been opened, but is inconveniently located 10 km outside of town, on the main road to Erbil. The cost of reaching the garage from downtown Sulaimaniyah is IQD 10,000.

Rental Car

An Iraqi Kurdistan car license plate.

An Iraqi Kurdistan car license plate.

There are many rental car companies in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah, although hiring a private driver for the day is possibly cheaper than renting a car and allows you to leave the driving to a local who knows the roads.

The following car rental companies are located in Erbil:


That’s the end of my travel guide for Iraqi Kurdistan.

If you wish to provide any feedback on this guide, you can leave a comment below.

Safe Travels!

Darren


 

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Travel Quiz 49: North America

North America Travel Quiz

This is a North America Travel quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know North America?

Test your knowledge with this North America Travel quiz from taste2travel.

 

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

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Good luck!

 

01. In which US state would you find the Golden Gate Bridge?

Correct! Wrong!

02. The famous "Louisville Slugger" baseball bat is produced in which US state?

Correct! Wrong!

03. Which local currency would you be using if shopping in Mexico?

Correct! Wrong!

04. How many stars appear on the flag of the United States?

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05. Which is the capital of the Canadian state of Québec?

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06. The ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Palenque are found in which country?

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07. This is the flag of which North American territory?

Flag_Greenland
Correct! Wrong!

08. In which city would you be if you were visiting the Pearl Harbour National Memorial?

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09. Which famous tower dominates the skyline of Toronto, Canada?

Toronto_CN_Tower
Correct! Wrong!

10. In which city would you be if you were touring the Pennsylvania State House?

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11. The 9/11 Memorial & Museum is located in which US city?

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12. The best preserved mummies in North America can be viewed in which city?

Found in a cave in 1972, these perfectly preserved mummies include a 6-month-old child.
Correct! Wrong!

13. On which island will you find the Statue of Liberty?

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14. Which river flows through the Grand Canyon?

Grand Canyon View
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15. Niagara Falls are located on the border of New York state and which Canadian province?

Niagara Falls
Correct! Wrong!

16. Although a part of North America, Greenland is a territory of which country?

The Ilulissat Icefiord is one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites on Greenland.
Correct! Wrong!

17. What's the total number of provinces and territories in Canada?

Flag of Canada.
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18. Death Valley National Park is located in which US state?

Death Valley NP.
Correct! Wrong!

19. "Non-Violence", also known as The Knotted Gun, is a bronze sculpture found where?

Non-Violence sculpture at UN HQ in NYC.
Correct! Wrong!

20. Excluding the federal district of Mexico City, there are how many states in Mexico?

State Flags of Mexico.
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 49: North America
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Pass Stamp.

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