Tag - French Territory

Saint Pierre and Miquelon Travel Guide

The now uninhabited Île aux Marins was once home to a thriving community of cod fisherman.

Saint-Pierre and Miquelon Travel Guide

Date Visited: September 2025

Introduction

A short ferry ride from Newfoundland, Canada, lies a fascinating slice of France in North America — the islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

A view of the coast of Miquelon.

A view of the coast of Miquelon.

This tiny French overseas territory has been on my travel wish list for many years.

A fascinating destination which blends Gallic charm with North Atlantic ruggedness, offering visitors a unique cultural and geographical experience.

Home to 5,200 souls, the town of Saint-Pierre is the main administrative and cultural hub of the territory of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

Home to 5,200 souls, the town of Saint-Pierre is the main administrative and cultural hub of the territory of Saint Pierre and Miquelon.

Stroll the narrow, colourful streets of Saint-Pierre, the capital and administrative hub, where French cafés and patisseries line the harbour, or explore the windswept landscapes and wild rugged beauty of Miquelon-Langlade, home to seabirds, seals and roaming wild horses.

Traditional, wooden, Dory boats on Saint-Pierre Island.

Traditional, wooden, Dory boats on Saint-Pierre Island.

With its blend of European sophistication and maritime heritage, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feels both familiar and far-flung, a little piece of France anchored in North America.

Due to a lack of accommodation and restaurant options, and sporadic transport links to the island, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon isn’t a place to be visited on a whim!

A view of the beach near Plage de Mirande, Miquelon.

A view of the beach near Plage de Mirande, Miquelon.

It is essential that you book everything in advance to save any disappointment, especially during the summer peak season when the few transport options, hotels and restaurants are fully booked well in advance.

A view of Saint-Pierre town, the capital and largest town in the territory.

A view of Saint-Pierre town, the capital and largest town in the territory.

I spent 8 wonderful days in this remote French territory which was a good amount of time.

With one week, I was able to explore the two populated islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon-Langlade and also the abandoned island of Île aux Marins (Sailor’s Island).

This remote French outpost is a fascinating and engaging destination which offers lots of history, culture, French flair, nature, wildlife, hiking and more.

Highly recommended!

Location

Saint Pierre Island, St Pierre and Miquelon

Saint-Pierre and Miquelon (SPM) is a small French overseas territory located in the North Atlantic Ocean, just off the coast of Newfoundland, Canada.

A view of the coast of Miquelon.

A view of the coast of Miquelon.

Lying about 25 kilometres (16 miles) south of Newfoundland’s Burin Peninsula, the islands are the last remnant of France’s once vast colonial empire in North America.

The island and town of Saint Pierre is the capital, cultural and administrative centre for this remote French territory.

The island and town of Saint Pierre is the capital, cultural and administrative centre for this remote French territory.

The archipelago consists of eight islands, two of which are inhabited; Saint-Pierre (area: 25 km2 / 9.7 sq mi), which is the cultural and administrative centre, and Miquelon-Langlade (area: 205 km2 / 79 sq mi), a larger but more sparsely populated island.

A view of a beach on the rugged and sparsely populated island of Miquelon.

A view of a beach on the rugged and sparsely populated island of Miquelon.

Despite their North American setting, the islands remain distinctly French in culture, cuisine, and lifestyle, offering visitors the unusual experience of stepping into a slice of France while surrounded by Canadian waters.

A view of Saint-Pierre town, the capital and main administrative centre for the territory.

A view of Saint-Pierre town, the capital and main administrative centre for the territory.

The location gives Saint-Pierre and Miquelon a rugged maritime character, with dramatic coastlines, fresh Atlantic breezes, and a strong connection to fishing and seafaring traditions.

Time Difference

As shown by these clocks on the Saint Pierre Ferry, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is 30 minutes ahead of Newfoundland, Canada.

As shown by these clocks on the Saint Pierre Ferry, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is 30 minutes ahead of Newfoundland, Canada.

Saint Pierre and Miquelon is 30 minutes ahead of Newfoundland, Canada.

When it’s 12 noon on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, it’s 11:30 am in Newfoundland, Canada.

Opening Hours

Restaurants and Shops

As is normal in the French world, opening hours for everything on Saint Pierre and Miquelon is very part-time and sporadic!

As a rule, every business in the territory closes for a 2-hour lunch break from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm and everything is closed on Sunday!

As for restaurants and cafes, almost all are closed on Sunday and most also remain closed on Monday and even Tuesday.

It’s always best to check ahead!

On the days when they are open for business, restaurants open for lunch from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm then close, then reopen for dinner at 7:00 pm and close again at 9:30 pm.

Transport Schedules

When planning travel to, from and within SPM, it’s important to note that schedules rarely operate daily and are always subject to change.

Since transport is limited, it’s imperative to book tickets well in advance to avoid disappointment.

During my stay on the island, the Saint Pierre to Fortune ferry didn’t operate for 3 days – as per the schedule!

Links to Transport Schedules:

  • Air Saint-Pierre– offers flights between Saint Pierre and Halifax (Nova Scotia), Saint John’s (Newfoundland), Montreal (Quebec) and Paris (summer time only).
  • Saint-Pierre FerriesOffers ferry services from their hub on Saint Pierre to Miquelon and Fortune (Canada).

History

One of many restored fishing houses on the abandoned Île aux Marins.

One of many restored fishing houses on the abandoned Île aux Marins.

The history of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is closely tied to the voyages of the French explorer Jacques Cartier, who played a key role in France’s early presence in North America.

Cartier, sailing under the French crown, undertook three major expeditions across the Atlantic between 1534 and 1542, seeking new lands and a route to Asia.

Fishing is a key industry on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, and has been since the first Europeans arrive in the 16th century.

Fishing is a key industry on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, and has been since the first Europeans arrive in the 16th century.

On his first voyage in 1536, after exploring parts of Newfoundland and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, he stopped at Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

There, he formally claimed the islands for France, planting the French flag and marking the beginning of their long connection to the French nation.

Although Cartier did not settle the islands, his voyages established Saint-Pierre and Miquelon as part of France’s expanding interests in the North Atlantic.

Over the centuries that followed, the islands became strategically important for fishing fleets, especially for the lucrative cod fishery.

Plenty of French influence in this French territory!

Plenty of French influence in this French territory!

The archipelago’s French identity, first asserted by Cartier, endured through centuries of conflict between France and Britain, with the islands repeatedly changing hands until they were definitively restored to France in 1816 as part of the Treaty of Paris.

In the 20th century, Saint-Pierre became a hub for smuggling alcohol into the United States during Prohibition.


Saint-Pierre – America’s Alcohol Warehouse During Prohibition!

A set of 'Prohibition' stamps issued by SPM Post Office.

A set of ‘Prohibition’ stamps issued by SPM Post Office.

During the era of Prohibition in the United States (1920–1933), when the production, sale, and transport of alcoholic beverages were banned, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon became a lively hub for liquor smuggling.

Because the islands were French territory, the ban did not apply there.

Enterprising merchants quickly saw an opportunity: large shipments of whisky, rum, and other spirits arrived legally from Canada, the Caribbean, and Europe, were warehoused in Saint-Pierre, and then quietly redistributed to bootleggers supplying the American market.

The islands’ location, just off the coast of Newfoundland and relatively close to New England, made them an ideal trans-shipment point.

Saint-Pierre’s tiny harbour suddenly bustled with freighters unloading alcohol into warehouses, while smaller, fast boats spirited cases of liquor to the United States under cover of night.

At the height of the trade, the town of Saint-Pierre saw its economy transformed; its population grew wealthier, banks flourished, and even local fishermen and shopkeepers found work linked to the smuggling trade.

Figures like Al Capone are said to have had connections to the liquor flowing through Saint-Pierre, and many islanders still recall stories of American gangsters and rum-runners mingling in the cafés.

By the end of Prohibition in 1933, the island’s economy returned to quieter times, but the Prohibition years remain a legendary chapter in Saint-Pierre’s history, when the remote outpost briefly became a linchpin of the North Atlantic liquor trade.


Today, the islands remain a self-governing territorial collectivity of France, preserving a distinct French identity while relying heavily on fishing and tourism.

People

A house on Miquelon, which is home to less than 500 souls!

A house on Miquelon, which is home to less than 500 souls!

The 5,132 inhabitants of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are proud guardians of a unique Franco-North American identity.

The population is predominantly of French descent, tracing their roots back to Basque, Breton, and Norman fishermen who settled here centuries ago.

Their heritage is reflected in local surnames, architecture, and cultural traditions, which remain strongly tied to France.

Life on the islands is closely connected to the sea, with many families historically involved in fishing, seafaring, and trade.


An Architectural ‘drum’! 

Almost all homes on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature a 'drum' at the entrance.

Almost all homes on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature a ‘drum’ at the entrance.

An interesting feature of most houses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is the “drum”, which is a small airlock or entryway designed to prevent cold air from entering the home. 

This characteristic feature of the architecture allows residents to remove their coats and shoes in this separate space before going further into the house, helping to maintain warmth. 


Today, while modern professions support the local economy, fishing culture and maritime traditions are still central to island life.

Residents are French citizens, and the official language is French, though many also speak English due to the close proximity to Newfoundland and the wider Canadian Maritimes.

Visitors will notice a warm hospitality, where French customs blend with a rugged North Atlantic resilience.

The community is tight-knit, and festivals, music, and gastronomy all play an important role in island culture, offering travellers a rich and authentic cultural experience.



The Basques of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

The <i>Euskal Etxea</i> (Basque Cultural Centre) on Saint-Pierre, flying the Basque flag - the <i>Ikurriña.

The Euskal Etxea (Basque Cultural Centre) on Saint-Pierre, flying the Basque flag – the Ikurriña.

Basque fishermen were among the first Europeans to visit the islands which today comprise this French territory.

The Basque population has played a significant role in shaping the cultural identity of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Their presence dates back to the 16th century, when Basque fishermen from both the French and Spanish sides of the Pyrenees began frequenting the rich fishing grounds off Newfoundland and the nearby islands.

The boardwalk of a cottage on Langlade is painted with the Ikurriña, the Basque flag.

The boardwalk of a cottage on Langlade is painted with the Ikurriña, the Basque flag.

These early mariners established seasonal camps on the islands, salting and drying cod before returning to Europe.

When the islands later became a permanent French settlement, many of the colonists who arrived were of Basque origin.

Their descendants still make up an important part of the population today – especially on Miquelon Island-Langlade, where many homes proudly display the distinct Basque flag.

The <i>Ikurriña</i> (the Basque flag) appears at the top hoist side of the Saint-Pierre flag.

The Ikurriña (the Basque flag) appears at the top hoist side of the Saint-Pierre flag.

Basque culture and symbols are omni-present on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, including on the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon flag, where the Ikurriña (the Basque flag) appears at the top on the hoist side.

Located opposite the Basque Cultural Centre on Saint-Pierre is this <i>fronton</i>; a sports court used for playing Basque pelota.

Located opposite the Basque Cultural Centre on Saint-Pierre is this fronton; a sports court used for playing Basque pelota.

Both Saint Pierre and Miquelon feature a Basque <i>fronton</i> – a single high wall where Basque <i>pelota</i> and <i>jai alai</i> is played.

These games involve striking a ball against a wall (the fronton) with either the hand, a wooden bat, a basket, or a racket.



Flag

The colourful, and distinct, flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The colourful, and distinct, flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is one of the most distinctive regional flags in the world, rich with history and symbolism.

It features a bold design dominated by a large golden ship on a bright blue field, representing the Grande Hermine, the vessel sailed by French explorer Jacques Cartier when he arrived in the islands in 1536.

The ship symbolises both the territory’s deep maritime heritage and its enduring connection to France.

The French <i>tricolore</i> is used on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon for formal purposes.

The French tricolore is used on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon for formal purposes.

Along the hoist side of the flag are three smaller panels displaying the traditional emblems of the main groups who first settled the islands: the Basques, Bretons, and Normans.

These patterns honour the origins of many of today’s inhabitants, reflecting the islands’ cultural diversity within a distinctly French identity.

The French <i>tricolore'</i> is the official flag of SPM.

The French tricolore’ is the official flag of SPM.

While not an official national flag, the islands use the French tricolore for formal purposes.

The French tricolore is the official flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon and is displayed on all government buildings.

The French tricolore is the official flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon and is displayed on all government buildings.

The local flag of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is a proud emblem often seen on public buildings, fishing boats, and during festivals, adding a splash of colour and heritage to the landscape.

Currency

The Euro is the official currency of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The Euro is the official currency of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The official currency of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is the euro (€), as the islands are a self-governing overseas collectivity of France.

All transactions, whether at restaurants, shops, or hotels, are conducted in euros, and prices are generally in line with French standards, though some imported goods can be more expensive due to the territory’s remote location.

Canadian dollars are sometimes accepted informally due to the islands’ close proximity to Newfoundland, but travellers should not rely on this and should expect change to be given in euros.

For visitors, using euros in this North American setting adds to the charm of the experience – stepping ashore, you truly feel as though you’ve entered a little piece of France across the Atlantic.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are widely accepted throughout the territory and are the most efficient form of payment.

Rarely did I use cash!

Banking Services

The main branch of Caisse d'Epargne on Saint-Pierre is located on the waterfront.

The main branch of Caisse d’Epargne on Saint-Pierre is located on the waterfront.

Banque de Saint-Pierre et Miquelon provides retail banking products and services to individuals and professionals.

Since July 2016 Banque de Saint-Pierre et Miquelon operates under the umbrella of Caisse d’Epargne.

Based in Marseille, Caisse d’Epargne is a French local savings bank, providing a full range of banking products and services to individuals, professionals, companies, associations, and local authorities.

A branch of Caisse d'Epargne at 9 Rue Emile Sasco in downtown Saint-Pierre.

A branch of Caisse d’Epargne at 9 Rue Emile Sasco in downtown Saint-Pierre.

As is typical in the French world, Visa is the only credit card issued by the bank, although Mastercard is accepted by the bank’s ATMs.

ATMs

ATMs are available on Saint-Pierre and on Miquelon and can be easily identified by the red logo of <i>Caisse d'Epargne.

ATMs are available on Saint-Pierre and on Miquelon and can be easily identified by the red logo of Caisse d’Epargne.

Saint-Pierre

This small ATM kiosk is located on Rue Albert Briand (opposite Bar Le Rustique).

This small ATM kiosk is located on Rue Albert Briand (opposite Bar Le Rustique).

Several ATMs are available in downtown Saint-Pierre at the following locations:

  • At the main branch of Caisse d’Epargne at 24, Rue du 11 Novembre (on the waterfront near the Ark Museum).
  • At the branch of Caisse d’Epargne at 9, Rue Emile Sasco.
  • A small kiosk ATM on Rue Albert Briand (opposite Bar Le Rustique).

Miquelon

The one branch of Caisse d'Epargne on Miquelon includes an ATM.

The one branch of Caisse d’Epargne on Miquelon includes an ATM.

There is one branch of Caisse d’Epargne on Miquelon, which includes an ATM, at 49, Rue Anne-Claire du Pont de Renon.

All businesses on Miquelon accept credit cards, although it’s a good idea to always carry some cash!

Costs

For the most part, travel costs in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are in line with those in mainland France.

The biggest expenses are accommodation (very limited) and international flights, all of which are operated by Air Saint-Pierre, the national airline, and monopoly carrier, whose fleet consists of one ATR-42 plane, with a capacity of 42 passengers!

Sample costs: 

  • Continental Breakfast at Hotel Robert: €10
  • Cheeseburger meal at Le Buddy restaurant: €17
  • Crepe lunch at ROC Cafe in Saint-Pierre: €15-20
  • Soft drink (0.33 litre bottle): €1.45
  • Bottle of water (0.33 litre bottle): €1.50
  • SIM card with 20GB of data from SPM Telecom: €34.99
  • Car rental (per day) from Etablissments Max Giradin of Miquelon: €69
  • One-way flight with Air Saint-Pierre from St. John’s (Newfoundland) to Saint-Pierre: €183
  • One-way ferry ticket with SPM Ferries from Saint-Pierre to Miquelon: €16
  • One-way ferry ticket with SPM Ferries from Fortune (Newfoundland) to Saint-Pierre: €45
  • Standard room at Hotel Robert in downtown Saint-Pierre: €135
  • Standard room at Auberge de l’Ile on Miquelon: €86

Philately

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon often feature maritime themes.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon often feature maritime themes.

The postage stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are among the most distinctive features of this small French overseas territory and are highly prized by collectors worldwide.

As a French territory, the islands have issued their own stamps since the late 19th century.

A philatelic display at Saint-Pierre post office.

A philatelic display at Saint-Pierre post office.

Early issues often featured overprints on French colonial stamps, while later designs showcased unique imagery celebrating the islands’ heritage, culture, and maritime identity.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature beautiful and intricate artwork.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature beautiful and intricate artwork.

Many stamps depict sailing ships, fishing vessels, and seafaring traditions, reflecting the islands’ long history with cod fishing and the Atlantic Ocean.

Others highlight local wildlife, traditional costumes, and important historical figures connected to the archipelago.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature the rich history and culture of the territory.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature the rich history and culture of the territory.

In more recent decades, the stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon have become miniature works of art, often designed with bright colors and fine engraving.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature finely engraved artwork.

The stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon feature finely engraved artwork.

They serve not only as practical postage but also as a means of promoting the islands to the wider world, with themes ranging from lighthouses and marine life to festivals and commemorations of French history.

The colourful stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are popular among stamp collectors around the world.

The colourful stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are popular among stamp collectors around the world.

Today, although the territory uses the euro as its currency, its stamps remain unique to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, making them both functional for mail and collectible for philatelists.

Maritime themes, such as fishing, feature often on the stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Maritime themes, such as fishing, feature often on the stamps of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

They are a charming reflection of the islands’ Franco-North American identity.

Post Office

The main post office in Saint-Pierre which was under renovation at the time of my visit.

The main post office in Saint-Pierre which was under renovation at the time of my visit.

Saint-Pierre

The main post office is located on the harbour in Saint-Pierre at Place du Général de Gaulle.

Contact details for Saint-Pierre Post Office:

Miquelon

The branch of the post office on Miquelon is located in downtown Miquelon.

The branch of the post office on Miquelon is located in downtown Miquelon.

There is also a post office on Miquelon which is located at 2 rue Antoine Soucy in downtown Miquelon.

Stamp Sales

Saint-Pierre post office publishes a Philatley Programme each year which can be obtained from the post office.

Saint-Pierre post office publishes a Philatley Programme each year which can be obtained from the post office.

Stamps can be purchased from either post office on Saint-Pierre or Miquelon or online from the French Post website.

Post Cards

Post cards can be purchased from Boutique Ré-Créations in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Post cards can be purchased from Boutique Ré-Créations in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Post cards and stamps can be purchased from Boutique Ré-Créations which is located a short walk from the Saint-Pierre post office at 4 rue du 11 novembre.

Telcom Services

The office of SPM Telecom in Saint-Pierre.

The office of SPM Telecom in Saint-Pierre.

Telecom services in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are offered by SPM Telecom whose office is located near the Tourist Information office in downtown Saint-Pierre.

SIM cards with data packages can be purchased from SPM Telecom.

SIM cards with data packages can be purchased from SPM Telecom.

SIM cards can be purchased with 4 different data packages available – as outlined in the image above.

SIM cards for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon can be purchased by SPM Telecom in Saint-Pierre.

SIM cards for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon can be purchased by SPM Telecom in Saint-Pierre.

During my time in the territory, I used a SIM card with 20GB of data which cost me €34.99.

Contact details for SPM Telecom.

Contact details for SPM Telecom.

The signal strength was good throughout the territory – even in the remotest corners of Miquelon-Langlade.

Shopping

Saint-Pierre

<i>Ré-Créations</i> in downtown Saint-Pierre offers a full range of Saint-Pierre souvenirs and hand-painted ceramics.

Ré-Créations in downtown Saint-Pierre offers a full range of Saint-Pierre souvenirs and hand-painted ceramics.

A truly unique selection of SPM gifts and souvenirs can be found at Ré-Créations, a boutique in downtown Saint-Pierre which is located next to Hotel Robert at 4 rue du 11 novembre.

Hand-painted ceramic souvenirs of Saint-Pierre can be purchased at Boutique Ré-Créations in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Hand-painted ceramic souvenirs of Saint-Pierre can be purchased at Boutique Ré-Créations in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Owned by the creative, energetic and friendly Cathy Simon (Tel: +508 55 37 00), this gift shop houses a ceramic painting workshop which produces the most beautifully hand-painted ceramic souvenirs featuring local themes.

Hand-painted ceramic from Boutique Ré-Créations makes for a unique souvenir of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Hand-painted ceramic from Boutique Ré-Créations makes for a unique souvenir of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

A range of white ceramic ware, which is imported from France, is adorned with lobsters, puffin birds, Saint-Pierre street-scenes and the ubiquitous pulley clothesline which can be seen in all the back yards of Saint-Pierre.

A ceramic artist, at Boutique Ré-Créations, painting a Christmas-themed plate.

A ceramic artist, at Boutique Ré-Créations, painting a Christmas-themed plate.

At the time of my visit, the ceramic painter was busy filling Christmas orders for local customers.

Miquelon

The gift shop at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office offers a treasure trove of locally made crafts and gifts.

The gift shop at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office offers a treasure trove of locally made crafts and gifts.

Miquelon Tourist Information Office Gift Shop

The one and only gift shop on Miquelon is housed inside the Miquelon Tourist Information Office building.

A hand-painted souvenir of Miquelon at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office gift shop.

A hand-painted souvenir of Miquelon at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office gift shop.

The shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of locally produced arts and crafts, clothes and food.

The full range of Miqu'Ale craft beers is available for purchase from the gift shop at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office.

The full range of Miqu’Ale craft beers is available for purchase from the gift shop at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office.

This is also the best place to purchase the locally brewed Miqu’Ale craft beer.

Tourist Information

The Saint-Pierre Tourist Information Office is located opposite the ferry wharf in downtown Saint-Pierre.

The Saint-Pierre Tourist Information Office is located opposite the ferry wharf in downtown Saint-Pierre.

The best sources of tourist information are the SPM tourist information offices in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

All information is available online at the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon Tourism Website.

The tourist office also offers the SPM Exception app which provides a wealth of tourist information from any smart phone.

Saint-Pierre Tourist Information Office

The SPM Exception sign, on the waterfront in Saint-Pierre.

The SPM Exception sign, on the waterfront in Saint-Pierre.

Contact details: 

Address: Place du Général de Gaulle, Saint-Pierre
Telephone: +508-41-02-00

Miquelon Tourist Information Office

The friendly staff at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office are the best source of information for Miquelon-Langlade.

The friendly staff at the Miquelon Tourist Information Office are the best source of information for Miquelon-Langlade.

The Miquelon Tourist Information Office is located at the excellent Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement in downtown Miquelon.

The SPM Exception sign in Miquelon.

The SPM Exception sign in Miquelon.

Contact details: 

Address: Place des Ardilliers, Miquelon
Telephone: +508-41-02-01

SPM Exception App

The excellent SPM Exception app provides detailed tourist information for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The excellent SPM Exception app provides detailed tourist information for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Available for download the excellent SPM Exception app provides detailed information on restaurants, accommodation, transport schedules, shopping, weather and more.

Sightseeing

The buildings of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are constructed from wooden planks which are painted in many different colours.

The buildings of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are constructed from wooden planks which are painted in many different colours.

Comprising the two populated islands of Saint-Pierre, Miquelon-Langlade, and a scattering of smaller islets, the territory is France’s last remaining foothold in North America.

Visitors are greeted with cobblestone streets, brightly painted wooden houses, boulangeries serving fresh baguettes, and tricolore flags fluttering in the Atlantic breeze.

Saint-Pierre, the administrative and cultural hub, is lively, compact and walkable, while the much larger, and sparsely populated, Miquelon-Langlade offers wild landscapes, untamed nature, wildlife, windswept beaches, and incredible hiking trails.

Together, they present a perfect balance of French flair and natural splendor.

A third island worth exploring is Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island), an abandoned, former fishing community, which is a short 15-minute boat ride from Saint-Pierre.

A shingle building on Saint-Pierre.

A shingle building on Saint-Pierre.

In terms of population, Saint-Pierre (pop: 5,223) is the main hub and home to almost all of the population, while the larger Miquelon-Langlade (pop: 596) is much quieter with far fewer services for tourists, while Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island) is uninhabited.



Suggested 7-day Itinerary

I spent 8-days in the territory, but I would suggest 7-days as an ideal amount of time if you wish to fully explore the 3 islands mentioned above.

I would split my time evenly between Saint-Pierre and Miquelon-Langlade, however, if you prefer the outdoors and hiking trails, then you should allocate more time on Miquelon-Langlade, which is a truly special, rugged and remote part of the world.

Day 1 to 3: Exploring Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins

Day 1:

  • Start the day with a coffee and pastry at Boulangerie David Girardin (closed Sunday) which is located across from the ferry wharf, next to the tourist information office.
  • If needed, buy a SIM card from SPM Telecom (closed Saturday and Sunday) which is located next to the tourist information office.
  • Explore the quiet, relaxed streets of Saint-Pierre town, where you’ll find many colourful, wooden houses.
  • Walk up to the Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre, which offers panoramic views over the town, the harbour and beyond to Île aux Marins.
  • For lunch, enjoy a beautiful buckwheat crepe, washed down with a local Miqu’Ale craft beer, at ROC Cafe (closed on Sunday and Monday), which is located next door to Boulangerie David Girardin.
  • If re-opened, visit the Musée de l’Arche (currently closed due to a leaky roof which is scheduled to be replaced sometime in 2026), which showcases the islands’ history – from Basque fishermen to the Prohibition-era smuggling days.
  • If opened (closed during my stay), visit the Heritage Museum which is located around the corner from the tourist information office.
  • Visit Pointe aux Canons and the colourful fishing boat sheds which are located nearby.
  • Dinner at Le Buddy restaurant (or its replacement) at Hotel Robert (advance reservation advised).

Day 2:

  • Take a short boat trip to Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island). The ferry does not operate on Monday or Thursday. 
  • Wander through the abandoned fishing village, allowing at least 2-3 hours to fully explore the island, visiting the old church, the cemetery, memorial, lighthouse and the restored houses.
  • Return to Saint-Pierre and explore shops for French pastries, wines, and souvenirs
  • If visiting in summer, check for local cultural events or music festivals often held along the waterfront.

Day 3: 

  • More time to relax and explore Saint-Pierre, walking around the harbour to the Hotel Les Terrasses du Port to enjoy a meal at the wonderful L’Îlot Restaurant.
  • Enjoy the sweeping views of Saint-Pierre town from the pier, which is located across the road from the Hotel Les Terrasses du Port.
  • Take the SPM Ferry to Miquelon Island, a 1-hour trip (€16 one way). It’s recommended to book tickets online in advance.
  • Stay on Miquelon at Auberge de l’Ile which is a 900 metre (flat) walk from the ferry wharf.

Day 4 to 7 – Exploring Miquelon-Langlade

Day 4 to 7:

  • Enjoy a continental breakfast at Auberge de l’Ile. 
  • Rent a car or bike in Miquelon town and set out to explore the island’s rugged landscapes and long sandy beaches. Distances are vast and strong winds make bike riding a challenge! I rented a car through Etablissments Max Giradin who I would recommend.
  • Your first stop should be the Miquelon Tourist Information Office where the friendly staff can offer you a map of the island and lots of tips for exploring this special destination.
  • Also at the Tourist Information Office, the excellent Nature Interpretation Centre offers an overview of the history, geology, fauna and flora of Miquelon-Langlade. This is highly recommended!
  • Across the road from the Tourist Information Office, Our Lady of Ardilliers Catholic Church features a spectacular native Indian canoe which is suspended from the ceiling. Not something you see every day in a church!
  • Spend your days exploring both Miquelon and Langlade, both of which offer lots of pristine nature and well-developed hiking trails. The two islands are connected by a long isthmus which you can drive across in a regular car.
  • There is lots of nature around so keep an eye out for seals, wild horses, and seabirds.
  • Return by ferry to Saint-Pierre.


Saint-Pierre

A welcome sign, in downtown Saint-Pierre.

A welcome sign, in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Charming and quaint, Saint-Pierre town is compact and easily negotiated on foot, although it becomes very hilly as you climb up from the waterfront.

The streets of Saint-Pierre are lined with colourful, wooden plank buildings.

The streets of Saint-Pierre are lined with colourful, wooden plank buildings.

The quiet, almost traffic-free, streets are lined with colourful wooden houses, cafés, patisseries and boulangeries which serve the most delectable French pastries and baguettes.

For those looking to buy souvenirs, or a special Saint Pierre-themed hand-painted ceramic gift, I recommend stopping by Boutique Ré-Créations (please refer to the ‘Shopping’ section above for more details).

Shops, in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Shops, in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre

The best views of Saint-Pierre town are to be found at the grassy Belvédère de l'Anse à Pierre.

The best views of Saint-Pierre town are to be found at the grassy Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre.

The best views over Saint-Pierre are to be found at the very top of town at the grassy Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre.

The Belvédère de l'Anse à Pierre offers panoramic views of nearby Île aux Marins. 

The Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre offers panoramic views of nearby Île aux Marins.

Also known as the Observatoire de l’Anse à Pierre, this lookout is an ideal spot for nature lovers, photographers, and visitors seeking tranquility, as it offers spectacular views of the sea, the coastal landscape, and a sweeping view of nearby Île aux Marins.

A view of Saint-Pierre town and, in the background, Île aux Marins.

A view of Saint-Pierre town and, in the background, Île aux Marins.

The lookout is the best starting point for sightseeing on Saint-Pierre as it gives you an understanding of the layout of the town, the harbour, and the placement of Île aux Marins.

The Belvédère de l'Anse à Pierre is the best place to gain an overview of Saint-Pierre town and its environs.

The Belvédère de l’Anse à Pierre is the best place to gain an overview of Saint-Pierre town and its environs.

Musée de l’Arche 

A view of the Musée de l’Arche which is currently closed due to a leaky roof.

A view of the Musée de l’Arche which is currently closed due to a leaky roof.

Located on the waterfront, the Musée de l’Arche (The Ark Museum) was closed at the time of my visit due to a leaky roof.

In true ‘ark’ style, the museum’s roof was built using many long, wooden, planks.

Over the years, these have succumbed to the weather and are now in need of replacement.

A closer view of the many damaged wooden planks, which line the roof of the Musée de l’Arche in Saint-Pierre.

A closer view of the many damaged wooden planks, which line the roof of the Musée de l’Arche in Saint-Pierre.

The project to replace the roof has yet to commence. It seems the museum will be closed for some time.

The friendly staff allowed me inside to photograph the star attraction – a guillotine!

The only guillotine every used in North America, and used just once, is on display at the Musée de l’Arche.

The only guillotine every used in North America, and used just once, is on display at the Musée de l’Arche.

Imported from the French colony of Martinique, this guillotine was used only once, to serve justice on a murderer from Île aux Marins.

The execution took place in 1889 and was the only time the guillotine was ever used in North America. 

If you are visiting the ‘ghost island’, you’ll learn all about this murder!

St. Pierre Cathedral

The Basque-style, St. Pierre Cathedral, is currently undergoing renovation but is open for visits.

The Basque-style, St. Pierre Cathedral, is currently undergoing renovation but is open for visits.

St. Pierre Cathedral, which has the rather confusing French name of Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Saint-Pierre is an early 20th-century church that serves as the cathedral of Saint Pierre Island.

This Basque-style church is located close to the harbour on the rue Jacques Cartier.

A view of the interior of St. Pierre Cathedral.

A view of the interior of St. Pierre Cathedral.

The original church was constructed in the late 17th century, opening in 1690.

Due to the Great Fire of 1902, the current structure dates back to 1907.

Like the Musée de l’Arche, the cathedral currently has a leaky roof which is slowly being repaired.

Several modern stained-glass windows in St. Pierre Cathedral were donated by Charles de Gaulle.

Several modern stained-glass windows in St. Pierre Cathedral were donated by Charles de Gaulle.

St. Pierre Cathedral is noted for containing several modern stained-glass windows that were donated by Charles de Gaulle during his 1967 visit to the territory. 

Pointe aux Canons

Overlooking the harbour in Saint-Pierre, Pointe aux Canons features four cannons which were install to protect Saint-Pierre Island.

Overlooking the harbour in Saint-Pierre, Pointe aux Canons features four cannons which were install to protect Saint-Pierre Island.

Located on the waterfront, a short walk from the cathedral is Pointe aux Canons.

The site has a long history of military defense, including a fort from 1690 that was later destroyed.

The current 19th-century defensive battery and four cannons were established to protect the island, though they were never fired in battle.

The Pointe aux Canons lighthouse is an iconic feature of Saint-Pierre.

The Pointe aux Canons lighthouse is an iconic feature of Saint-Pierre.

Also here is one of many lighthouses which can be found throughout the territory.

Traditional Dory Boats

The colourful boat sheds which are used by Les Zigotos to house their traditional Dory boats.

The colourful boat sheds which are used by Les Zigotos to house their traditional Dory boats.

A short walk beyond Pointe aux Canons, a row of colourful wooden boats shed are used by Les Zigotos to house traditional dory fishing boats.

Traditional, wooden, Dory boats on Saint-Pierre Island.

Traditional, wooden, Dory boats on Saint-Pierre Island.

Les Zigotos is an association of local friends dedicated to preserving the history of the islands’ traditional wooden fishing boats, called dories.

Excursions on a traditional dory boat can be organised by contacting Les Zigotos.

Excursions on a traditional dory boat can be organised by contacting Les Zigotos.

They restore and maintain the dories, offer boat tours, and provide visitors a chance to experience traditional maritime activities like rowing and cod fishing.

Traditional dory fishing boats on Saint-Pierre.

Traditional dory fishing boats on Saint-Pierre.


Video: Using a traditional hand-winch to bring a wooden dory boat to shore in the French territory of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. 


The design of dory boats is historically significant in neighbouring Newfoundland for fishing, and some areas even have local names for variations of the dory.

Dory boats have historically been used for fishing on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon and in the wider region, including neighbouring Newfoundland.

Dory boats have historically been used for fishing on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon and in the wider region, including neighbouring Newfoundland.

Square Joffre 

A popular gathering place, Square Joffre is a pretty little square which overlooks the harbour, near to the main post office. 

A popular gathering place, Square Joffre is a pretty little square which overlooks the harbour, near to the main post office.

Square Joffre (Joffre Square) is a pretty little square which overlooks the harbour, near to the main post office.

Located in Joffre Square, Monument aux Marins Disparus is a memorial to sailors who were lost at sea.

Located in Joffre Square, Monument aux Marins Disparus is a memorial to sailors who were lost at sea.

A popular gathering place for locals and tourists, the centre piece of the square is the Monument aux Marins Disparus which is a memorial to sailors who were lost at sea.

Erected in 1964, the monument features a statue of a sailor holding a ship’s wheel, which symbolises strength and direction.

The monument serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by those in the fishing industry, which has been a central part of the archipelago’s history.


Île aux Marins

A view of the <i>Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins</i> which sits on a hill in the centre of Île aux Marins.

A view of the Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins which sits on a hill in the centre of Île aux Marins.

Just a 15-minute boat ride from Saint-Pierre, the uninhabited Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island) was once home to a thriving fishing community.

The now uninhabited Île aux Marins was once home to a thriving community of cod fisherman.

The now uninhabited Île aux Marins was once home to a thriving community of cod fisherman.

This small, wind-swept island now stands as a beautifully preserved open-air museum, a hauntingly picturesque reminder of life in a bygone era.

A view of Île aux Marins which was once home to a thriving fishing community.

A view of Île aux Marins which was once home to a thriving fishing community.

Measuring 1.5 km (0.93 miles) in length and 100 to 400 metres (330 – 1,310 feet) in width, and crisscrossed by a network of grassy trails, exploring tiny Île aux Marins is easily done in about 2-hours.

A restored house, "La Maison Grise", on Île aux Marins.

A restored house, “La Maison Grise”, on Île aux Marins.

Mostly flat walking trails connect the boat dock to a collection of restored buildings such as houses, fishing sheds, a church, a fire station, a cemetery and an iconic red lighthouse.

A view of Île aux Marins which was abandoned in the mid 20th-century.

A view of Île aux Marins which was abandoned in the mid 20th-century.

The population, which once numbered several hundred, gradually left during the mid-20th century as the fishing industry modernised and opportunities dwindled.

A view of the interior of Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on Île aux Marins.

A view of the interior of Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on Île aux Marins.

One highlight is the restored Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins, a white-and-red church, which stands proudly on a hill in the centre of the island.

A view of Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on Île aux Marins.

A view of Église Notre-Dame-des-Marins on Île aux Marins.

Visitors can wander the grassy lanes, explore the remnants of fishermen’s homes, and enjoy sweeping views back toward Saint-Pierre and the surrounding sea.

A view of the lighthouse on Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island), with Saint-Pierre in the background.

A view of the lighthouse on Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island), with Saint-Pierre in the background.

Today, Île aux Marins feels frozen in time – tranquil, windswept, and evocative – a favourite spot for photographers, history lovers, and anyone seeking a quiet glimpse into the territory’s seafaring past.

A view of the restored fire station on Île aux Marins.

A view of the restored fire station on Île aux Marins.

Getting There

Le P'tit Gravier operates a shuttle service between Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island). 

Le P’tit Gravier operates a shuttle service between Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island).

The only way to access Île aux Marins is on the ferry boat Le P’tit Gravier which departs on a regular basis from the dock in downtown Saint-Pierre.

A return ticket to Île aux Marins on the ferry boat Le P'tit Gravier costs €6.

A return ticket to Île aux Marins on the ferry boat Le P’tit Gravier costs €6.

Included below is the current guide to Île aux Marins which is issued by the tourist office in Saint-Pierre.

The current guide to Île aux Marins.

The current guide to Île aux Marins.

A return ticket costs €6, with the boat operating every day, except Monday and Thursday at the following times:

Depart Saint-Pierre Depart Île aux Marins
8:30 8:45
10:00 10:15
11:30 11:45
13:30 13:45
15:30 15:45
17:30 17:45

 

The Le P'tit Gravier ferry, seen here in Saint-Pierre harbour, operates a shuttle service between Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins.

The Le P’tit Gravier ferry, seen here in Saint-Pierre harbour, operates a shuttle service between Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins.

Miquelon-Langlade

With a total land area of 200 km2, Miquelon-Langlade is best explored using a rental car.

With a total land area of 200 km2, Miquelon-Langlade is best explored using a rental car.

With a small population of less than 500, this much larger, more rural island is known for its rugged wilderness, long sandy beaches, and abundant wildlife.

Wild horses can be spotted all over Miquelon-Langlade.

Wild horses can be spotted all over Miquelon-Langlade.

It’s a paradise for hikers and nature lovers, with the chance to spot wild horses, seals, and migratory birds.

A summer cottage on Miquelon.

A summer cottage on Miquelon.

With a total land area of 200 km2, Miquelon-Langlade is best explored using a rental car (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more details).

Miquelon

Welcome to Miquelon!

Welcome to Miquelon!

Miquelon is a truly distinctive destination thanks to its striking natural beauty, quiet authenticity, and unusual blend of cultures.

The Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers is located on the main square in Miquelon.

The Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers is located on the main square in Miquelon.

With just a few hundred inhabitants, Miquelon feels slow-paced, friendly, and deeply authentic.

Artwork, which has been painted using squid's ink, on display at the Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement on Miquelon.

Artwork, which has been painted using squid’s ink, on display at the Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement on Miquelon.

The island offers a slice of small-town French life, complete with one boulangerie, one supermarket, 2 cozy inns, and a close-knit community, all set against a dramatic North Atlantic backdrop.

A view of the coast of Miquelon with Miquelon town in the distance.

A view of the coast of Miquelon with Miquelon town in the distance.

It is joined to Langlade by a sandy Isthmus which you can drive (or cycle) across.

Miquelon Visitor Information Centre and Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement

The excellent Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement is housed inside the Miquelon Tourist Information Centre.

The excellent Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement is housed inside the Miquelon Tourist Information Centre.

The first stop on any visit to Miquelon should be the Miquelon Tourist Information Centre which houses the very worthwhile Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement (House of Nature and the Environment).

Displays at the House of Nature and the Environment on Miquelon explain the history, geology, geography and biodiversity of the territory.

Displays at the House of Nature and the Environment on Miquelon explain the history, geology, geography and biodiversity of the territory.

In this interpretation centre, you will discover the history, geology, geography, climate and biodiversity of the archipelago through four natural environments thanks to a permanent interactive exhibition.

Displays at the Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement are only in French.

Displays at the Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement are only in French.

Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers

The Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers is located on the main square in Miquelon.

The Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers is located on the main square in Miquelon.

The main church on Miquelon is the Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers (Our Lady of Ardilliers Church), an historical wooden church built between 1862 and 1865.

A view of Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers and the suspended Mi'kmaq canoe.

A view of Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers and the suspended Mi’kmaq canoe.

This is the oldest church in the archipelago with three different structures having succeeded each since 1763, the date of the founding of the village of Miquelon.

The church is located in the heart of Miquelon, directly on the main square and flanked by the one supermarket, boulangerie and the tourist information centre.

A star attraction of the <i>Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers</i> in Miquelon is a native Mi'kmaq canoe which is suspended above the centre aisle.

A star attraction of the Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers in Miquelon is a native Mi’kmaq canoe which is suspended above the centre aisle.

What is truly special about this church is a traditional Mi’kmaq canoe which is suspended above the main aisle.

The canoe was built in 2003 by the Mi’kmaq chief – Mi’sel Joe on neighbouring Newfoundland.

In 2004, the chief, along with 10 rowers, rowed the canoe over several days from Newfoundland to the island of Miquelon as part of a commemoration of the 500th anniversary of French presence on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Stained glass windows at the Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers in Miquelon.

Stained glass windows at the Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers in Miquelon.

Mi’kmaq birch bark canoes were historically associated with the area of Miquelon.

The Mi’kmaq people have a long history with canoes, which were essential for hunting, fishing, and travel in their territory.

Boats in churches, such as this one at Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers in Miquelon, are often used in seafaring communities where they serve as votive offerings of thanks for safe passage.

Boats in churches, such as this one at Eglise Notre Dame des Ardilliers in Miquelon, are often used in seafaring communities where they serve as votive offerings of thanks for safe passage.

The specific canoe on display in Miquelon is an example of Mi’kmaq cultural connection to the wider region and a testament to their skill as canoe builders.

Les Saveurs Fermières

A visit to Les Saveurs Fermières goat farm is a 'must-do' while on Miquelon.

A visit to Les Saveurs Fermières goat farm is a ‘must-do’ while on Miquelon.

Miquelon is home to a few industries, including Les Saveurs Fermières, goat (dairy) farm.

Les Saveurs Fermières, is home to more than 40 happy goats, all of which have name collars.

Les Saveurs Fermières, is home to more than 40 happy goats, all of which have name collars.

Home to more than 40 happy goats, all of whom wear name collars, this dairy farm produces all sorts of goat products – including goats’ milk, cheese, yoghurt and soap.

A Sunday cheese tasting at Les Saveurs Fermières, goat farm on Miquelon.

A Sunday cheese tasting at Les Saveurs Fermières, goat farm on Miquelon.

This farm is a popular stop on the Gourmet Tour of Miquelon, where visitors can sample goat cheese. 

Les Saveurs Fermières produces goats' milk, cheese, yoghurt and soap.    

Les Saveurs Fermières produces goats’ milk, cheese, yoghurt and soap.

You can organise a visit and degustation of their fine products by contacting the tourist office in Miquelon.

All goats at Les Saveurs Fermières, are kept inside this shed where they are fed and milked.

All goats at Les Saveurs Fermières, are kept inside this shed where they are fed and milked.

I purchased a couple of their amazing cheeses and enjoyed these in my inn along with a fresh baguette and a bottle of local Miqu’Ale beer. The perfect dinner!

Wildlife and Outdoor Activities

A map of Miquelon-Langlade which shows the different hiking trails.

A map of Miquelon-Langlade which shows the different hiking trails.

Miquelon offers lots of rugged, isolated, lonely coastlines, hiking, cycling, kayaking, and horseback riding.

A view of the beach near Plage de Mirande, Miquelon.

A view of the beach near Plage de Mirande, Miquelon.

Trails lead through dense forests, past serene lakes, and up to viewpoints with panoramic vistas over the archipelago.

Miquelon-Langlade offers enough hiking trails to keep you busy for a week or two!

Miquelon-Langlade offers enough hiking trails to keep you busy for a week or two!

In winter, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are popular among locals.

Harbor seals, who are extremely shy, are found in the Saint Pierre and Miquelon area, where they share habitats with gray seals.

Harbor seals, who are extremely shy, are found in the Saint Pierre and Miquelon area, where they share habitats with gray seals.

The surrounding waters are rich in marine life, and birdwatchers will find puffins, terns, and other seabirds.

Hiking trails, boat tours, and fishing excursions let visitors experience the wild Atlantic setting up close.

Together, these sights offer travellers a unique blend of French culture, maritime heritage, and natural beauty, making Saint-Pierre and Miquelon a hidden gem just off the Canadian coast.

Hiking Trails

A view of one of the many hiking trails on the sparsely populated Miquelon Island.

A view of one of the many hiking trails on the sparsely populated Miquelon Island.

There are 6 hiking trails on Miquelon and 3 on Langlade.

This hiking trail on Miquelon offers free walking sticks.

This hiking trail on Miquelon offers free walking sticks.

All are well developed and include well-maintained wooden boardwalks where the terrain is wet or boggy.

At the start of all hiking trails, a detailed signboard provides a wealth of information about the trail, with a QR code for more information online.

At the start of all hiking trails, a detailed signboard provides a wealth of information about the trail, with a QR code for more information online.

At the start of all trails, detailed signboards provide a wealth of information about the trail.

Hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade are well developed, with elevated boardwalks where ever the trail passes over a waterway or boggy ground.

Hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade are well developed, with elevated boardwalks where ever the trail passes over a waterway or boggy ground.

This includes a topographical map of the area through which the trail passes, a difficulty rating (out of 3 stars), length of the hike, time required to complete the hike, change of elevation during the hike and even a QR code which you can scan to access all information online.

There are many well-developed hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade.

There are many well-developed hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade.

Cape Miquelon

Cape Miquelon offers fantastic views of Miquelon and beyond.

Cape Miquelon offers fantastic views of Miquelon and beyond.

The best views of Miquelon are offered from Cape Miquelon which is located at the top of the island, in every sense of the word.

Cape Miquelon can be explored on a 5-hour hiking trail.

Cape Miquelon can be explored on a 5-hour hiking trail.

Le Muscadin

Le Muscadin was a fishing schooner that was deliberately beached in Miquelon.

Le Muscadin was a fishing schooner that was deliberately beached in Miquelon.

Le Muscadin was a fishing schooner that was deliberately beached in Miquelon.

This removal from the water was carried out as part of a dry-docking operation for the vessel.

A view of the bow of Le Muscadin.

A view of the bow of Le Muscadin.

It sits on the side of the road on the outskirts of Miquelon town, as you drive towards Langlade.

Langlade

On the road to Langlade in my rental car.

On the road to Langlade in my rental car.

Langlade, or more accurately Miquelon-Langlade, has a population of around 600, but this refers to the entire Miquelon-Langlade commune, as Langlade is not inhabited year-round.

This is a place for locals to enjoy time in their summer cottages, before returning home to hunker down for the long, cold winter.

The Isthmus to Langlade

A narrow 10-kilometre-long sand isthmus links Miquelon to Langlade Island (in the background).

A narrow 10-kilometre-long sand isthmus links Miquelon to Langlade Island (in the background).

A narrow 10-kilometre sand isthmus links Miquelon to Langlade Island, one of the region’s most remarkable natural features.

A road leads across the narrow 10-kilometre sand isthmus which connects Miquelon to Langlade Island.

A road leads across the narrow 10-kilometre sand isthmus which connects Miquelon to Langlade Island.

Wind-swept and wild, it’s possible to hike or drive along the causeway-like strip, surrounded by sea on both sides, an unforgettable experience.

The road is paved for the first half of the isthmus (from the Miquelon end) and beyond that, the remainder of the isthmus road, and all roads on Langlade are well-maintained gravel roads.

Langlade Settlement

An isolated telephone box on the coast of Langlade.

An isolated telephone box on the coast of Langlade.

The road network on Langlade is very limited with hiking trails being the only way to explore beyond the north coast (i.e. the coast which is closest to the isthmus).

A wooden boardwalk, and boat winches, line the coast at Anse du Gouvernment, the only settlement on Langlade.

A wooden boardwalk, and boat winches, line the coast at Anse du Gouvernment, the only settlement on Langlade.

A small settlement surrounds the yawning expanse of Anse du Gouvernment (Government Bay) however, there are no facilities here.

You should bring all supplies from Miquelon.

Langlade is home to many Basque summer cottages.

Langlade is home to many Basque summer cottages.

The single year-round inhabitant of Langlade passed away in 2006, and while seasonal visitors use its facilities, it has no permanent residents.

Due to its isolated location and lack of facilities, Langlade is only inhabited during the summer months.

Due to its isolated location and lack of facilities, Langlade is only inhabited during the summer months.

The isthmus is wild and rugged during summer and I imagine it would be impassable during the winter months.

Accommodation

Saint Pierre and Miquelon offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets.

Options are very limited and it is essential that you pre-book accommodation as far in advance as possible as most places are normally fully booked during the high season.

The best resource for researching options is the Accommodation page on the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon Tourism website.

The website lists a total of 5 hotels in Saint-Pierre and 1 Auberge on Miquelon.

Also listed are 3 Guest Houses, in Saint-Pierre, and 4 holiday apartments.

There are 9 rental apartments available in Saint-Pierre, all of which are listed on the Vacation Rentals page on the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon Tourism website.

While hotels are normally fully booked and rarely found on online booking sites, occasional apartments can be found on sites such as Airbnb and booking.com

If you plan to stay on Miquelon, there are just two accommodation options, one 6-bedroom inn and one 3-bedroom auberge.

Reservations anywhere should be made as far in advance as possible and you should expect most places to be fully booked during the high season.

Saint-Pierre

Hotel Robert

Established during the Prohibition period, and having once accommodated Al Capone, the Hotel Robert is the largest hotel in Saint-Pierre.

Established during the Prohibition period, and having once accommodated Al Capone, the Hotel Robert is the largest hotel in Saint-Pierre.

During my stay on Saint-Pierre, I stayed at the Hotel Robert which is the largest hotel in the territory.

Overlooking the sea and offering 43 spacious rooms, just a 3-minute walk from the ferry terminal, the charming and cosy Hotel Robert was built during the Prohibition era.

Located along the ocean, it was built during Prohibition era in the 1920’s and has counted among its clients the famous Al Capone.

The modern annex at Hotel Robert offers comfortable, spacious and contemporary-designed rooms.

The modern annex at Hotel Robert offers comfortable, spacious and contemporary-designed rooms.

During my stay, I was accommodated in the new annex block which offers very spacious, modern and comfortable rooms.

Views of my room at the Hotel Robert in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Views of my room at the Hotel Robert in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Hotel Robert offers 4 different rooms types with a standard room starting at €135 per night during the high season (May – September).

Views of my room at the Hotel Robert in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Views of my room at the Hotel Robert in downtown Saint-Pierre.

The hotel offers a paid breakfast each morning in their onsite restaurant.

My continental breakfast served at Restaurant <i>Le Buddy</i> at the Hotel Robert.

My continental breakfast served at Restaurant Le Buddy at the Hotel Robert.

During my stay, the restaurant, Le Buddy, was schedule to shut its doors permanently at the end of October 2025.

A new restaurant will be established in the same space since it is vital for the operation of the hotel and is one of the few restaurants in town which is open for dinner.

Details: 

Rates: Many different rates which can be viewed on the ‘Room and Rates‘ page of the hotel website.

Address: 2 rue du 11 novembre, BP 4269, 97500 St Pierre et Miquelon
Tel: +508 41 24 19
Email: hotelrobertspm@gmail.com
Web: www.hotelrobert.com
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/298722441/hotel-robert-saint-pierre/

Les Terrasses du Port

Located on the opposite side of the harbour from Saint-Pierre, <i>Les Terrasses du Port</i> is the only 4-star hotel in the territory.

Located on the opposite side of the harbour from Saint-Pierre, Les Terrasses du Port is the only 4-star hotel in the territory.

Located on the opposite side of the harbour from downtown Saint-Pierre, the luxurious Les Terrasses du Port is the only 4-star hotel in the territory.

The highly recommended restaurant, L’Îlot, is also the only place in Saint-Pierre which is open for lunch on Sunday.

Not that the kitchen is open, but the kitchen staff pre-prepare sandwiches and salads for anyone stuck for lunch during the weekly island shutdown.

This cool and stylish hotel features comfortable rooms, a spa and a fitness centre.

Details: 

High Season Rates: Between €197 and €347
Low Season Rates: Between €108 and €220

Tel: +508 41 17 00
Email: accueil@tdpspm.com
Website: https://en.tdpspm.com/
Booking.com: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pm/les-terrasses-du-port.fr.html

Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée

During my stay in Saint-Pierre, I spent 3 nights at the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée which is located on top of a steep hill, above Saint-Pierre town.

During my stay in Saint-Pierre, I spent 3 nights at the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée which is located on top of a steep hill, above Saint-Pierre town.

During my stay in Saint Pierre, I spent 3 nights at the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée (English: Independent Ground Floor Apartment).

A view of the cosy living room at my Airbnb apartment in Saint-Pierre.

A view of the cosy living room at my Airbnb apartment in Saint-Pierre.

More house than apartment, this Airbnb property is owned by a French couple who reside in France.

A view of the dining room at the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée.

A view of the dining room at the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée.

The house features a large, spacious living room, dining room, kitchen, two bedrooms with queen-size beds and one bedroom with a single bed.

A view of the kitchen at my 'home-sweet-home' in Saint-Pierre, the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée.

A view of the kitchen at my ‘home-sweet-home’ in Saint-Pierre, the Appartement Indépendant Rez-de-Chaussée.

An added bonus was the laundry!

The master bedroom at my Airbnb apartment in Saint-Pierre.

The master bedroom at my Airbnb apartment in Saint-Pierre.

The three bedrooms can accommodate up to 5 people.

It was way too much space for this single traveller!

Details:

Rate: €222 per night 

Address: 28 rue de la Fauvett, 97500 Saint-Pierre, St. Pierre and Miquelon
Tel: +33 6 52 95 64 44
Booking.com: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pm/appartement-independant-rez-de-chaussee.fr.html
Airbnb: https://fr.airbnb.ch/rooms/1084638953791936061

Auberge Saint-Pierre 

I did not stay at Auberge Saint-Pierre but, for completeness, I’m including contact details below.

Details:

High Season Rates: From €146
Low Season Rates: From €98

Tel: +508 41 40 86
Email: aubergesaintpierre@gmail.com
Website: https://www.aubergesaint-pierre.com/

Nuits Saint-Pierre 

I did not stay at Nuits Saint-Pierre but, for completeness, I’m including contact details below.

Details: 

Rates: From €95

Tel: +508 55 54 88
Email: servicesspm@gmail.com
Website: http://nuitssaintpierre.com/?lang=en

Auberge Quatre Temps

I did not stay at Auberge Quatre Temps but, for completeness, I’m including contact details below.

Details: 

Rates: From €135

Tel: +508 41 43 01
Email: contact@quatretemps.com
Website: https://aubergequatretemps-spm.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/aubergequatretempsspm/?locale=fr_FR

Chez Marie Jo

I did not stay at Chez Marie Jo but, for completeness, I’m including contact details below.

Details: 

Rate: €75

Address: 37 rue Marcel Bonin, Saint-Pierre
Tel: +508 41 47 73
Email: mariejospm@hotmail.fr
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Chez-Marie-Jo/100057267797522/
Booking.com: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pm/chez-marie-jo-saint-pierre.html

Pension B&B Bernard Dodeman

I did not stay at Pension B&B Bernard Dodeman but, for completeness, I’m including contact details below.

Details:

Rate: €75

Address: 15 rue Paul Bert, Saint-Pierre
Tel: 508 41 30 60
Email: jdodeman@cheznoo.net
Booking.com: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pm/pension-b.fr.html

Miquelon

There are just two accommodation options on tiny Miquelon – Auberge de l’Île and Au P’tit Kakawim. 

Auberge de l’Île

During my stay on Miquelon, I stayed at the excellent Auberge de l’Île.

During my stay on Miquelon, I stayed at the excellent Auberge de l’Île.

During my stay on Miquelon, I stayed at the comfortable and cosy Auberge de l’Île (English: Inn of the Island), a welcoming inn which serves food in a downstairs cafe.

My comfortable room at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

My comfortable room at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

This clean and comfortable inn, which was built in 2012, offers a warm and charming atmosphere, with six tastefully decorated rooms.

The restaurant at Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon offers breakfast and lunch.

The inn’s restaurant, whose wall is decorated with a mural which depicts a typical Miquelon scene, serves a continental breakfast at an additional cost of €10 and offers a 2-course lunch every day, except Sunday, for €20.

My continental breakfast at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

My continental breakfast at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

A popular offering from the restaurant is their picnic baskets which allow you to enjoy lunch while hiking in the beautiful Miquelon countryside.

Delicious goats-milk yogurt, from the local goat dairy, is served for breakfast at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

Delicious goats-milk yogurt, from the local goat dairy, is served for breakfast at the Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

Dining options on Miquelon are very limited so this restaurant is a life-saver at times!

Details:

High Season Rates: €86 (single) / €98 (double)
Low Season Rates: €76 (single) / €88 (double)

Address: 47 Rue Sourdeval, BP 8347 Miquelon, Langlade
Tel: +508 41 67 00
Email: aubergedelile.miquelon@gmail.com
Website: https://www.aubergemiquelon.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Aubergedelile/

Au P’tit Kakawim

A modern guesthouse in downtown Miquelon, which offers 3 spacious bedrooms.

Details

Rates: €80

Address: Miquelon-Langlade 14, rue Baron de l’espérance, 97500 Miquelon
Tel: +508 55 41 70
Email: auptitkakawi@gmail.com
Website: https://www.auptitkakawi.com/
Booking.com: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pm/au-ptit-kakawi.html

Eating Out

The cuisine of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon reflects the islands’ strong French heritage blended with North Atlantic maritime traditions.

Seafood is the star of the table.

Cod, scallops, lobster, crab, mussels, and halibut are staples, often featured in soups, stews, and gratins.

Bakeries and patisseries bring a taste of France, offering baguettes, croissants, éclairs, and fruit tarts.

Restaurants open for lunch between 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm then close. They then reopen at 7:00 pm for dinner, closing around 9:30 pm.

The best source of information for all restaurants in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is the ‘Restaurants‘ page of the SPM Tourism website.

All restaurants are closed on Sunday and most are closed on Monday. 

With a limited number of dining options in the territory, advance reservations are recommended. 

Saint-Pierre

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin

Crusty fresh baguettes and other breads are sold at the excellent Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin.

Crusty fresh baguettes and other breads are sold at the excellent Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin.

There are three boulangerie’s in Saint-Pierre and one on Miquelon.

All are listed on the ‘Boulangerie‘ page of the SPM Tourism website.

The most divine, freshly made, pastries can be purchased at the Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin in downtown Saint-Pierre.

The most divine, freshly made, pastries can be purchased at the Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin in downtown Saint-Pierre.

Highly recommended is Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin which is located in the main square of Saint-Pierre, across the road from the post office.

Open early morning (except Sunday of course!), this boulangerie is also a patisserie, offering a range of freshly baked bread, pastries and cakes.

They also offer brewed coffee and a couple of tables outside where you can enjoy their fine fare in the sun.

Le Roc Café

Located opposite the ferry wharf in Saint-Pierre, Le Roc Café offers a menu of tasty Galletes.

Located opposite the ferry wharf in Saint-Pierre, Le Roc Café offers a menu of tasty Galletes.

Located next door to Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Girardin, Le Roc Café invites you to enjoy delicious homemade cuisine.

The excellent Le Roc Café offers a menu of tasty Galletes (buckwheat crepes) for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday.

The excellent Le Roc Café offers a menu of tasty Galletes (buckwheat crepes) for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday.

The speciality of Le Roc Café are their delicious Galletes (buckwheat crepes) which are served with salads.

A delicious ham and cheese gallete at Le Roc Café.

A delicious ham and cheese gallete at Le Roc Café.

The cafe is open for lunch between 11:45 am and 1:15 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday.

Le Buddy

<i>Le Buddy</i>, the restaurant at Hotel Robert, is scheduled to close its doors at the end of October 2025.

Le Buddy, the restaurant at Hotel Robert, is scheduled to close its doors at the end of October 2025.

Located on the ground floor of the Hôtel Robert, Le Buddy restaurant allows you to eat and drink while enjoying the view of the old port of Saint-Pierre.

A very fine steak dinner at Restaurant 'Le Buddy', with a Miqu'Ale craft beer.

A very fine steak dinner at Restaurant ‘Le Buddy’, with a Miqu’Ale craft beer.

The restaurant is scheduled to close permanently at the end of October 2025, with no word at the moment on a replacement restaurant.

Since this is the only restaurant at Hotel Robert and it’s where hotel guests take breakfast each evening, a replacement restaurant will be needed!

As with all restaurants on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, advance reservations are highly recommended.

I reserved my table for dinner at the same time that I booked my hotel room. as per the suggestion by hotel management.

L’Îlot

The warm and inviting restaurant/ cafe at Les Terrasses du Port is the only place to eat lunch on Sunday when everything else is closed.

The warm and inviting restaurant/ cafe at Les Terrasses du Port is the only place to eat lunch on Sunday when everything else is closed.

Located at the Hotel Les Terrasses du Port L’Îlot is a cosy and inviting space where you can relax over a meal and enjoy the views of the harbour.

When all else is closed on Sunday, this restaurant offers Sunday lunch in the form of pre-prepared salads and pasta dishes.

Miquelon

My Sunday night dinner on Miquelon, which consisted of local produce - including 2 types of goat's cheese, salami and a Miqu'Ale craft beer.

My Sunday night dinner on Miquelon, which consisted of local produce – including 2 types of goat’s cheese, salami and a Miqu’Ale craft beer.

Miquelon has a very limited number of restaurants with limited opening times.

As with Saint-Pierre, reservations should be made in advance.

It should be noted that all restaurants on Miquelon close on Sunday.

The one supermarket on Miquelon is housed inside this un-signposted residential building, opposite Our Lady of Ardilliers Church.

The one supermarket on Miquelon is housed inside this un-signposted residential building, opposite Our Lady of Ardilliers Church.

This presents a perfect opportunity to sample a selection of local produce, which can be purchased from the one supermarket in Miquelon.

Atypique Boulangerie

The only boulangerie on Miquelon, Atypique is located opposite Our Lady of Ardilliers Church.

The only boulangerie on Miquelon, Atypique is located opposite Our Lady of Ardilliers Church.

This excellent boulangerie is open every day except Sunday and offers freshly baked bread and pastries.

My crusty baguette which I purchased from the Atypique Boulangerie on Miquelon.

My crusty baguette which I purchased from the Atypique Boulangerie on Miquelon.

A good strategy on Saturday is to purchase a baguette so you have something to eat on Sunday when everything is closed.

Restaurant Auberge de l’Île

The restaurant at Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon offers breakfast and lunch.

The restaurant at Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon offers breakfast and lunch.

One of the few restaurants on Miquelon is at Auberge de l’Île.

A local fried goat's cheese salad served for lunch at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île with a Miqu'Ale craft beer.

A local fried goat’s cheese salad served for lunch at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île with a Miqu’Ale craft beer.

The owner of the inn, Patricia, is an excellent chef and offers two meals each day – breakfast and lunch.

A lunch of local fish with a creamy mustard sauce, served at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

A lunch of local fish with a creamy mustard sauce, served at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île on Miquelon.

Lunch is served from 12:00 pm and costs €20 for what is an amazing 2-course meal.

As with everything else on Miquelon, the restaurant is closed on Sunday.

Patricia can also prepare a picnic basket for you to take away if you plan on spending the day hiking somewhere!

A classic chocolate mousse, made the proper French way, served for dessert at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île.

A classic chocolate mousse, made the proper French way, served for dessert at the Restaurant Auberge de l’Île.

Every dish which Patricia served was divine, especially the creamy and smooth chocolate mousse.

Au Père Mouton

One of the few restaurants on Miquelon, the popular and lively Au Père Mouton serves traditional French fare with a local twist.

One of the few restaurants on Miquelon, the popular and lively Au Père Mouton serves traditional French fare with a local twist.

It would not be an understatement to say that Au Père Mouton is an institution on Miquelon.

The amazing food at Au Père Mouton is prepared by one energetic chief who works in an open kitchen behind the bar.

The amazing food at Au Père Mouton is prepared by one energetic chief who works in an open kitchen behind the bar.

This tiny, unpretentious, warm, friendly and welcoming establishment is under the command of a single chief who is immensely talented.

The amazing food at Au Père Mouton is prepared by one energetic chief who works in an open kitchen behind the bar.

The amazing food at Au Père Mouton is prepared by one energetic chief who works in an open kitchen behind the bar.

The restaurant is always packed with locals so advanced reservations are recommended!

An incredibly tasty beef in a red wine jus, prepared by the very talented chief at Au Père Mouton on Miquelon.

An incredibly tasty beef in a red wine jus, prepared by the very talented chief at Au Père Mouton on Miquelon.

I enjoyed a couple of meals here, including one incredibly tasty beef dish which was swimming in a red wine jus.

Magnifique!

A delectable crème brûlée, served at Au Père Mouton on Miquelon.

A delectable crème brûlée, served at Au Père Mouton on Miquelon.

All dishes were washed down with a bottle of local Miqu’Ale craft beer, including this divine crème brûlée. 

I recommend the stout beer (with its malt and coffee notes) to accompany any dessert!

Brasserie Artisanale de l’Anse

Located on Miquelon, the Brasserie Artisanale de l’Anse produces a staggering array of craft beers which are marketed under the name Miqu’Ale.

A full range of wine and beer, including Miqu'Ale beer, can be found at the CIA food and wine merchant on Rue Albert Briand in Saint-Pierre.

A full range of wine and beer, including Miqu’Ale beer, can be found at the CIA food and wine merchant on Rue Albert Briand in Saint-Pierre.

Unfortunately, tours of the brewery on Miquelon are not allowed which is a shame!

With one week on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, I was able to sample many of the different varieties of Miqu'Ale beer.

With one week on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, I was able to sample many of the different varieties of Miqu’Ale beer.

During my week on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, I managed to sample my way through most of their amazing craft beers.

Visa Requirements

My passport entry and exit stamps for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

My passport entry and exit stamps for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

As a part of France, immigration laws in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon follow the same structure as those in mainland France, but with some local variations due to its status as a French overseas territory.

As per the following Visa Policy Map:

  • Blue countries can stay in SPM for an unlimited period of time.
  • Green countries can stay up to 90 days, in a 180-day period.
  • Yellow countries can stay up to 15 days on organized trips.
  • Grey countries need to apply for visas prior to arriving in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.
Visa Policy for all Overseas French Territories, including SPM.

Visa Policy for all Overseas French Territories, including SPM.

As an overseas collectivity of France, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, has specific visa policies that differ from those of mainland France and the Schengen Area.

Your passport will be stamp on arrival and exit from SPM.

You can check your requirements by consulting the Visa policy of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

The following entry options are available, depending on your nationality.

Visa Free Entry – Unlimited Period

Nationals of the Blue countries, i.e. the European Union (EU), European Economic Area (EEA), and Switzerland can enter Saint-Pierre and Miquelon and reside for an unlimited period of time.

Entry to the territory can be made using an identity card rather than a passport.

Visa Free Entry – Short Stays

Travellers from the Green countries do not require a visa for short stays (up to 90 days within a 180-day period).

This includes the following nationalities:

  • Albania
  • Antigua and Barbuda
  • Argentina
  • Australia
  • Bahamas
  • Barbados
  • Bolivia
  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Brazil
  • Brunei
  • Canada (** – See note below)
  • Chile
  • Colombia
  • Costa Rica
  • Dominica
  • East Timor
  • El Salvador
  • Grenada
  • Guatemala
  • Honduras
  • Hong Kong
  • Israel
  • Japan
  • Kiribati
  • Macao
  • Malaysia
  • Marshall Islands
  • Mauritius
  • Mexico
  • Micronesia
  • Moldova
  • Montenegro
  • Nauru
  • New Zealand
  • Nicaragua
  • North Macedonia
  • Palau
  • Panama
  • Paraguay
  • Peru
  • Saint Kitts and Nevis
  • Saint Lucia
  • Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
  • Samoa
  • Serbia
  • Seychelles
  • Singapore
  • Solomon Islands
  • South Korea
  • Taiwan
  • Tonga
  • Trinidad and Tobago
  • Tuvalu
  • Ukraine
  • United Arab Emirates
  • United Kingdom
  • United States
  • Uruguay
  • Vatican City
  • Venezuela

** Canadian Citizens: Holders of a Canadian identification document (e.g. a driver’s licence or student card), of any nationality, travelling directly from Canada; do not require a passport to enter SPM.

Visa Required

Travellers from the Grey countries need to obtain a visa prior to arrival.

Since Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is not part of the Schengen Area, a Schengen visa is not valid for entry.

Obtaining a Visa

Foreign nationals who need a visa for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon can obtain one by lodging an application at a French embassy or consulate in their country of residence (or, in the case of foreign nationals already in a part of France, the local prefecture) for a fee of up to €99.

Getting There

Flights to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are only operated by Air Saint-Pierre who have one ATR-42 in their fleet.

Flights to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are only operated by Air Saint-Pierre who have one ATR-42 in their fleet.

Getting to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is part of the adventure, as the islands are tucked away in a remote corner of the North Atlantic, yet surprisingly accessible for those travelling from nearby Canada.

Apart from flying, the only other option for reaching Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is with SPM Ferries who offer a connection from Newfoundland.

Apart from flying, the only other option for reaching Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is with SPM Ferries who offer a connection from Newfoundland.

There are two options for reaching this French outpost; either fly with Air Saint-Pierre from three neighbouring Canadian provinces, or take the ferry, which is operated by SPM Ferries, from the Newfoundland town of Fortune.

Challenging Schedules in SPM! 

The October SPM Ferry schedules for sailings to Fortune (Canada) and Miquelon.

The October SPM Ferry schedules for sailings to Fortune (Canada) and Miquelon.

It should be noted that transport schedules to/from SPM are sporadic, with international flights generally operating just once a week and international ferry services operating only on certain days.

Nothing operates ‘daily’ in SPM and as such, it is imperative that you plan ahead and book well in advance.


Time Difference

When travelling between Canada and Saint Pierre and Miquelon, it’s important to remember that SPM is 30 minutes ahead of Canada.


Fortune Travel Guide

Fortune, Newfoundland is one of only two gateways to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Fortune, Newfoundland is one of only two gateways to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

There are only two ways of accessing Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, you either fly in or you take the ferry from Fortune, Newfoundland.

Since the majority of travellers pass through Fortune, I am provided a short section covering accommodation, getting there and away, and eating options in this tiny town.

Located on the Buren Peninsula, Fortune is a long (363 km) drive from St. Johns, the capital of Newfoundland.

A view of Fortune harbour, with the SPM Ferry dock and immigration/ customs building on the left.

A view of Fortune harbour, with the SPM Ferry dock and immigration/ customs building on the left.

It is a small, sleepy, seaside town which is home to 1,285 souls, with very few services for tourists.

It’s purely a transit town for people heading to SPM!

The larger town of Grand Bank (pop: 2,285), which is located 7 km north-east of Fortune, offers more accommodation and dining choices.

Fortune is home to one hotel, one supermarket, one Mary Brown’s fried chicken restaurant and not much else.

At the time of my visit, the busy folks at Collins Supermarket/Hardware store (on the main square) were putting the finishing touches on a new cafe which will open also on the main square.

The cafe will be the only place in Fortune offering breakfast.

Saint-Pierre Tourist Office and Stage Head Tours

The office of Saint-Pierre Tourism and Stage Head Tours is located on the main square in Fortune.

The office of Saint-Pierre Tourism and Stage Head Tours is located on the main square in Fortune.

Need advice, or a planned itinerary, for your trip to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon?

The Saint-Pierre Visitor Centre is located on the main square in Fortune. Their office is only open during the busy summer season.

Also in the same building is Stage Head Tours is a destination management company (DMC) for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Owned by the entrepreneurial Brian Rose and his wife, Michelle, Stage Head Tours can organise all aspects of a trip to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Their office, which offers coffee and snacks, is a popular stop for tourists heading across to SPM.

Brian and Michelle are a font of knowledge on SPM and they even sell travel adaptors for those who have forgotten to bring a euro adapter.

Contact Details:   

Accommodation

Hotel Fortune

Views of the comfortable rooms at Hotel Fortune.

Views of the comfortable rooms at Hotel Fortune.

There is one hotel in Fortune, the 8-room Hotel Fortune which is also owned by Brian and Michelle Rose of Stage Head Tours.

Located on the coast, about 1 km north of the ferry dock (in the direction of Grand Bank), Hotel Fortune offers 8 spacious, comfortable, deluxe rooms.

Views of the comfortable rooms at Hotel Fortune.

Views of the comfortable rooms at Hotel Fortune.

The hotel cannot be booked online through the regular hotel booking sites, so you will need to contact the hotel to make a direct booking.

Rooms are priced from C$129 per night.

The only hotel in town, Hotel Fortune offers eight deluxe rooms.

The only hotel in town, Hotel Fortune offers eight deluxe rooms.

Contact Details:   

 Airbnb

During my time in Fortune, I stayed in this Airbnb apartment.

During my time in Fortune, I stayed in this Airbnb apartment.

There are several apartments in Fortune which can be booked through Airbnb.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

I stayed in one such apartment during my stay in town.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

In a small town which offers almost no dining options, it is useful to be able to prepare a meal in your own kitchen.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

Views of my Airbnb apartment in Fortune.

Getting There/ Away

There are no public transport options linking fortune with the outside world.

You either arrive by car or you can book a seat on the daily Footes Taxi Service (actually an 11-seater mini bus).

Based in Grand Bank, Footes provide a daily shuttle service which departs Fortune/ Grand Bank each morning at 6 am, arriving in St. John’s around lunch time.

The cost of a seat on the bus is C$60. 

Contact Details: 

SPM Ferry Office

There is an office of SPM Ferries which is located across the road from Collins Supermarket/Hardware store.

If you haven’t purchased tickets online (recommended!) then you can purchase them from the office.

SPM Ferry Dock

The SPM Ferry <i>Suroît</i>, docked at Fortune, Newfoundland.

The boat to Saint-Pierre departs from the SPM Ferry dock which is behind Collins Supermarket.

All details regarding schedules, fares etc can be found in the ‘Ferry‘ section below.

The SPM Ferry dock and Canadian Immigration at Fortune, Newfoundland.

The SPM Ferry dock and Canadian Immigration at Fortune, Newfoundland.

Canadian immigration will stamp your passport at the port.

My Canadian immigration entry stamp which was issued at Fortune ferry dock.

My Canadian immigration entry stamp which was issued at Fortune ferry dock.


Air

Arriving at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport, which is located a short distance from downtown Saint-Pierre.

Arriving at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport, which is located a short distance from downtown Saint-Pierre.

Flights arrive at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport (IATA: FSP) which is located 1.9 km (1.2 mi) south of downtown Saint-Pierre.

A view of the terminal at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport.

A view of the terminal at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport.

The only airline which offers flights to/ from Saint Pierre and Miquelon is Air Saint-Pierre which operates a single ATR 42-600 (capacity of 46 passengers) on its few international routes.

My boarding pass for my Air Saint-Pierre flight from St. John's (Newfoundland) to Saint-Pierre.

My boarding pass for my Air Saint-Pierre flight from St. John’s (Newfoundland) to Saint-Pierre.

From Saint-Pierre, the airline operates flights (usually once per week) to/ from:

  • St. John’s, Newfoundland
  • Halifax, Nova Scotia
  • Montreal, Quebec
The only airline which offers flights to/ from Saint Pierre and Miquelon is Air Saint-Pierre which operates a single ATR-42.

The only airline which offers flights to/ from Saint Pierre and Miquelon is Air Saint-Pierre which operates a single ATR-42.

During the summer peak season (from June to September), Air Saint-Pierre offer direct flights to Paris (CDG T3).

Safety card on Air Saint-Pierre.

Safety card on Air Saint-Pierre.

Airport Transport

Hotel Shuttles

With a complete lack of public transport on Saint-Pierre, it’s best to organise a hotel shuttle from the airport.

Taxi

Taxis are available for a direct transfer to your accommodation or any destination on the island.

Several taxi companies are available, such as:

  • Taxi Bob: +508 55 54 47
  • Taxi Salomon: +508 55 66 77
  • Taxi Djipi: +508 55 53 33
  • Taxi Mylan: +508 55 41 98

Ferry

Ferry services in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are operated by SPM Ferries who own two ferries.

Ferry services in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are operated by SPM Ferries who own two ferries.

From Newfoundland a passenger ferry, which is operated by SPM Ferries, connects the town of Fortune, to Saint-Pierre.

During the peak summer season, boats operate daily while at other times the ferry operates a few times per week.

The SPM ferry fleet consists of the Nordet and Suroît which each have a capacity of 188 passengers and 18 vehicles.

During my time on Saint-Pierre, the Nordet was undergoing a complete renovation.

SPM Ferries operate two modern, clean and comfortable ferries which include a small cafe.

SPM Ferries operate two modern, clean and comfortable ferries which include a small cafe.

The crossing takes about 1 hour, making it the most popular route for visitors from Canada.

Schedule

On the days when it does operate, the ferry departs from Saint-Pierre at 9 am, and arrives in Fortune one hour later at 10 am.

From Fortune, the ferry departs at 2 pm, arriving one hour later in Saint-Pierre.

Cost

  • The cost of a one-way ticket is €45. 
  • The cost of a return ticket is €73. 

Bookings

Since the ferry service is not daily, it is best that you consult the online ferry schedule and purchase tickets online in advance.


Transport between Fortune and St. John’s, Newfoundland  

The only public transport option between Fortune and St. John’s (the capital of Newfoundland) is a once-daily taxi service which is operated by Footes Taxi who are based in Fortune. 

Schedule

The taxi, which does not connect with the ferry service, departs Fortune at 6 am each morning.

If you arrive in Fortune from Saint-Pierre, you will have to remain in town overnight and take the taxi the following morning.

The taxi will collect you from your accommodation in Fortune, and will drop you at your accommodation in St. John’s. 

Cost

The cost per person is C$60. 

Contacts

Bookings should be made well in advance by emailing footestaxi@gmail.com  

You can telephone Footes Taxi at: 1800-866-1181 or 832-0491


Cruise Ships

During my time on Miquelon, Ponant's Le Boreal cruise ship spent one Sunday in port.

During my time on Miquelon, Ponant’s Le Boreal cruise ship spent one Sunday in port.

Occasional cruise ships call at Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

If you are interested in visiting Saint-Pierre and Miquelon as part of a cruise, you should consult the cruise ship schedule.

During my time on Miquelon, Ponant’s Le Boreal cruise ship spent one Sunday in port, one of just three cruise ships to visit Miquelon each year.

Due to a lack of port facilities, the ship moored offshore with all passengers being transported to shore via tender.

The one school bus on Miquelon was pressed into service to transport cruise ship passengers on their land excursions.

The one school bus on Miquelon was pressed into service to transport cruise ship passengers on their land excursions.

Passengers were transported around the island on the one school bus while all shops, restaurants etc remained closed because it was Sunday!

Getting Around

This hand-made map of the territory shows how much larger Miquelon-Langlade is compared to tiny Saint-Pierre.

This hand-made map of the territory shows how much larger Miquelon-Langlade is compared to tiny Saint-Pierre.

With a lack of public transport, exploring Saint-Pierre and Miquelon can be done either with a rental car, taxi (only available on Saint-Pierre) bicycle or on foot.

The compact size of Saint-Pierre allows for easy exploration on foot, while the best way to explore the much larger Miquelon-Langlade is with a rental car.

On Foot

Compact, quiet and relaxed, Saint-Pierre town is easily explored on foot.

Compact, quiet and relaxed, Saint-Pierre town is easily explored on foot.

In Saint-Pierre town, most sights, shops, cafés, and museums are within easy walking distance.

The streets are narrow and charming, making strolling the best way to soak in the atmosphere.

There are many well-developed hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade.

There are many well-developed hiking trails on Miquelon-Langlade.

On Miquelon-Langlade, there are many well-developed hiking trails which allow for a deep exploration of this remote gem.

Buses

The only buses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are a couple of yellow (American) school buses which are used for transporting school children.

The only buses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are a couple of yellow (American) school buses which are used for transporting school children.

The only buses on the islands are a couple of yellow (American) school buses which are used for transporting school children.

The only buses on Saint-Pierre are two school buses which are used to transport students.

The only buses on Saint-Pierre are two school buses which are used to transport students.

Whenever a cruise ship visits, these buses are used to transport groups of passengers on land excursions.

Taxis

Saint-Pierre

Taxis are readily available in Saint-Pierre and can be used for short trips around town or to the airport and ferry terminal.

The following taxis are available in Saint-Pierre:

  • Taxi Bob: +508 55 54 47
  • Taxi Salomon: +508 55 66 77
  • Taxi Djipi: +508 55 53 33
  • Taxi Mylan: +508 55 41 98

Miquelon

There are no taxis on Miquelon.

Inter-Island Flights

A view of Miquelon airport.

A view of Miquelon airport.

Air Saint-Pierre operates a Reims-Cessna F406 (capacity of 12 passengers) between Saint-Pierre Island and Miquelon.

Flights typically operate once per day, but not daily! 

You can check the flight schedules online although inter-island flights cannot be booked online.

In order to reserve a seat, you must contact the airline via email who will confirm your booking.

Payment for your ticket is to be made upon arrival at the airport.

The airline can be contacted at:

Inter-Island Ferries

Miquelon-Langlade Island

The SPM Ferry Suroît, docked in Miquelon.

The SPM Ferry Suroît, docked in Miquelon.

A regular ferry, which is operated by SPM Ferries, links Saint-Pierre with Miquelon, making day trips between the two islands possible.

The journey takes about 90 minutes and offers scenic views of the coastline.

The SPM Ferry office at Miquelon port.

The SPM Ferry office at Miquelon port.

Tickets can be booked online with a one-way trip costing €16.

Since the ferry service is not daily, it is best that you consult the online ferry schedule and purchase tickets online in advance.

Île aux Marins

Le P'tit Gravier, docked in Saint-Pierre harbour.

Le P’tit Gravier, docked in Saint-Pierre harbour.

Le P’tit Gravier operates a shuttle service between Saint-Pierre and Île aux Marins (Sailors’ Island) on all days, except Monday and Thursday.

A return ticket for the 15-minute journey costs €6 with the boat offering 6 return trips throughout the day.

The current operating timetable is included under “Île aux Marins” in the sightseeing section.

Car Rentals

Exploring Miquelon-Langlade in my rental car.

Exploring Miquelon-Langlade in my rental car.

Rental cars are available on both Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, and they are the most convenient option for exploring beyond the towns.

This is especially useful on Miquelon-Langlade, where distances are greater and attractions are spread out along the rugged coastline.

Saint-Pierre Car Rentals

There are two car rental companies on Saint-Pierre – Garage Norbert Marie and Autochrome.

Contact details:

Garage Norbert Marie

Autochrome

Miquelon Car Rentals

A rental car is the best way to maximise your time on sprawling Miquelon-Langlade.

Exploring Miquelon-Langlade is best done in a rental car.

There are two car rental companies on Miquelon – Etablissments Max Giradin and Auto Action.

While on Miquelon, I rented a car through Etablissments Max Giradin which cost €69 per day. 

Infrastructure is very good on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon while speed limits are totally reasonable.

Infrastructure is very good on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon while speed limits are totally reasonable.

This enterprise operates the largest hardware store on Miquelon with the car rental business being a sideline.

Exploring Miquelon-Langlade is best done in a rental car.

Exploring Miquelon-Langlade is best done in a rental car.

I would recommend renting a car if you wish to maximise your time on the much larger, and sparsely populated Miquelon-Langlade.

Contact details:

Etablissments Max Giradin

Auto Action

License Plates

A Saint-Pierre and Miquelon (European-format) license plate.

A Saint-Pierre and Miquelon (European-format) license plate.

Due to the fact that cars on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are a mix of European and North American imports, license plates are available in two different formats – European or North American – depending on the model.

A Saint-Pierre and Miquelon (North American-format) license plate.

A Saint-Pierre and Miquelon (North American-format) license plate.

Bicycles

Cycling is an enjoyable option in the summer months, especially on Langlade’s long sandy isthmus.

Visitors should be prepared for strong coastal winds, which can make rides challenging but rewarding.


That’s the end of my Saint-Pierre and Miquelon Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave feedback, you can do so using the form below, or the contact page.

Safe Travels!
Darren


 

French Guiana Photo Gallery

In Cayenne, French Guiana, Carnival is celebrated from January to March each year.

French Guiana Photo Gallery

This is a French Guiana Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to both my French Guiana Travel Guide and Cayenne Carnival Feature Article.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

French Polynesia Photo Gallery

Created by ancient volcanoes, Moorea is incredibly rugged and beautiful.

French Polynesia Photo Gallery

This is a French Polynesia Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my French Polynesia Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Guadeloupe Photo Gallery

Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

Guadeloupe Photo Gallery

This is a Guadeloupe Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Guadeloupe Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Martinique Photo Gallery

The 'Hotel de Ville' (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

Martinique Photo Gallery

This is a Martinique Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Martinique Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Mayotte Photo Gallery

Africa Travel Quiz: Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

Mayotte Photo Gallery

This is a Mayotte Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Mayotte Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Saint Barts Photo Gallery

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

Saint Barts Photo Gallery

This is a Saint Barts Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Saint Barts Travel Guide


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Saint Martin Photo Gallery

On final approach to St. Martin with Winair - passing over Maho beach.

Saint Martin Photo Gallery

This is a Saint Martin Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Saint Martin Travel Guide


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 38 years and, 193 of 193 UN countries, 247 of 251 countries and dependent territories, and 7 continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

Safe travels!

Darren

Mayotte Travel Guide

View of Mayotte from my Ultralight flight.

Mayotte Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Mayotte Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2019

Introduction

Shaped like a seahorse, the French, Indian Ocean, territory of Mayotte is known for its beautiful lagoon, sandy beaches, and lush green countryside.

A view of Mayotte Lagoon from my ultralight flight over the island.

A view of Mayotte Lagoon from my ultralight flight over the island.

Created by ancient volcano’s, Mayotte is made up of eroded mountains and meandering streams and consists of two islands; the smaller, Petite Terre (10 km2), which is home to the airport and a beautiful crater lake and the larger, Grande Terre (39 kilometres long / 22 kilometres wide), which is home to the capital Mamoudzou.

The seahorse-shaped Mayotte.

The seahorse-shaped Mayotte.

Due to its location and past history, Mayotte faces insurmountable social issues (see the following section), with illegal immigration being the most significant. Historically part of the Comoros, at the time of independence in 1975, Mayotte voted to remain French to benefit from French development funds, which residents feared it would no longer receive. The French then embarked on a development program to modernise the island. This program is ongoing and is very much a ‘work in progress’.

The west coast town of Sada as seen from my ultralight flight over Mayotte.

The west coast town of Sada as seen from my ultralight flight over Mayotte.

In 2011, Mayotte became the 101st French département, the country’s newest. The department status of Mayotte is recent and the region remains, by a significant margin, the poorest in France. Mayotte is nevertheless much more prosperous than the other countries of the Mozambique Channel, making it a beacon of hope for illegal refugees.

Mayotte is surrounded by one of the World's largest lagoons.

Mayotte is surrounded by one of the World’s largest lagoons.

The development of Mayotte has created a huge disparity between it and the neighbouring Comoros Island, which is ranked as the 11th poorest nation on earth. While residents on Mayotte earn a third of the salaries of those in metropolitan France, their salaries are 15 times more than those in the neighbouring Comoros.

A shop on Rue du Commerce, the main street of the capital - Mamoudzou.

A shop on Rue du Commerce, the main street of the capital – Mamoudzou.

The capital city of Mayotte is the unremarkable Mamoudzou, which is located on the eastern side of Grand-Terre. An inter-island barge connects Mamoudzou to the island of Petite Terre.

The finest beach on Mayotte, N'Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay on the south coast.

The finest beach on Mayotte, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay on the south coast.

Tourism on Mayotte is in its infancy, and with a complete lack of hotels and restaurants, it is a challenging travel destination – best suited to intrepid adventurers.

Social Issues


An excellent introduction to the challenges facing Mayotte is provided in the following Al Jazeera documentary (47 mins), which is compulsory viewing for anyone who wishes to understand the complex social and political issues facing this French outpost.

 


Airfares between Mayotte and its nearest neighbour, Anjoun, are prohibitively expensive at €300 return on Ewa Airways for the 40 minute flight. Additionally, visa’s to Mayotte, which are required by all Comoran passport holders, cost €100.

All very expensive, which forces Comoran’s to undertake a dangerous sea voyage between the islands. The body of water separating the two islands has become the widest cemetery in the world with an estimated 10,000 Comoran’s drowned, most of them women and children.

My guest house in the town of Sada. Homes on Mayotte are secured with bars and grill doors to prevent robberies.

My guest house in the town of Sada. Homes on Mayotte are secured with bars and grill doors to prevent robberies.

The French government estimates that illegal immigrants account for 40% of the islands’ population, which places great pressure on Mayotte’s health, housing and education services.

With such a large portion of the population living in makeshift slums, without any opportunity to work, crime levels are high.

Homes on Mayotte are often surrounded by high security walls and secured with barred windows and grilled doors. The pressure created from such a large number of refugees has led to recent protests.

Environmental Issues

A beach, covered with litter, in the east coast town of Sada.

A beach, covered with litter, in the east coast town of Sada.

Mayotte is a beautiful tropical island which is blessed with green, forested hills and wonderful tropical beaches. Unfortunately, anywhere there are people, the environment is spoiled by illegal dumping and littering, with lots of plastic waste being washed into the turquoise lagoon.

The French government has installed street-side litter bins in urban areas, especially along the waterfront in downtown Mamoudzou, however the bins mostly remain empty while litter covers the ground around them. Educating the locals to place their rubbish in a bin, rather than dropping it on the ground, requires a cultural change which will take time.

In all towns, large, communal, skip bins have been placed by the roadside, but collections do not keep pace with the amount of rubbish being produced, resulting in piles of rubbish covering the ground. Large recycling bins have been installed in all towns, but plastic waste litters every town.

Location

Mamoudzou, Mayotte

 

Mayotte is the most easterly island in the Comoros archipelago, located in the Mozambique channel, midway between Mozambique and Madagascar.

With an area of 374 square kilometres, Mayotte is an ancient, volcanic island, the terrain is undulating, with deep ravines and ancient volcanic peaks. The territory is surrounded by one of the largest lagoons in the world which is encompassed by an almost impenetrable fringing reef.

The 'S' Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef.

The ‘S’ Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef.

People

A Mahorais store owner at Mamoudzou Central market wearing the traditional 'salouva'.

A Mahorais store owner at Mamoudzou Central market wearing the traditional ‘Salouva’.

The population of Mayotte in 2019 was 270,372. Most of the people on Mayotte are Mahorais of Malagasy origin and are Sunni Muslim with influences from French culture.

While French is the official language, most Mahorais speak Shimaore, the same language which is spoken throughout the Comoros Islands. Mahorais woman often look resplendent in their Salouva, a long cotton tube tied around the chest and falling to the feet.

Unlike other French territories, which have sizeable French ex-pat populations, who contribute to the economy and society, French ex-pats on Mayotte represent just 4% of the population. Most of these are conscripted government workers who work mainly in the municipal administration and are in a position of authority. The French clearly are not embracing their newest département!

Camera Shy Locals

The Mahorais will always hide from the camera.

The Mahorais will always hide from the camera.

As a photographer, I was hoping to get some nice people shots on Mayotte, however, I quickly learnt that the Mahorais do not like having their photo taken and will either refuse any requests or turn their back to hide their face. If you want to clear a street in downtown Mamoudzou, you only need to show your camera.

Bao

Bao” is Swahili for “board” and refers to a traditional mancala board game which is played throughout Africa, including on Mayotte. The objective of the game is to ‘capture and sow’ beads from the opponents side of the board. The one who captures all beads is the winner. It’s believed the game has existed since the 7th century and possibly existed in Ancient Egypt.


Video:

Playing ‘Bao‘ in the village of Sada, Mayotte.


Fauna & Flora

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

The Common Brown Lemur, originally from Madagascar, was introduced by humans prior to European colonisation and is found throughout Mayotte, in both urban and rural areas (these photos were taken in the town of M’zouasia). A sizeable population can be found on N’Gouja beach, on the south coast.

Lemurs are very inquisitive creatures which allows for excellent photography as they seem to pose for the camera.

Lemurs are very inquisitive creatures which allows for excellent photography as they pose for the camera.

Lemurs normally live in groups of 5 to 12 and are active during the day and early evening. One evening I watched a parade of 10 lemurs tight-rope walking along the length of a power line in Boueni. Lemurs are by nature, inquisitive creatures which makes it easy to photograph them as they’ll come to investigate you.

A juvenile Common Brown Lemur - even more inquisitive than the parents.

A juvenile Common Brown Lemur – even more inquisitive than the parents.

Like many parts of mainland Africa and Madagascar, Mayotte is home to towering baobab trees. These giants of the natural world are omnipresent on Mayotte where they line most beaches. The Baobab originated from sub-Saharan Africa but nowadays is found all over the tropical and sub-tropical parts of the Africa, always in dry places as it does not tolerate humidity.

A towering Baobab tree on Sakouli beach.

A towering Baobab tree on Sakouli beach.

The largest Baobab on Mayotte can be found on Musicale beach and has a trunk circumference of 28 m.

The large fruit of the Baobab tree is used by locals to make fruit juice which has a citrus flavour.

The large fruit of the Baobab tree is used by locals to make fruit juice which has a citrus flavour.

The tree produces a large, pendulous fruit which can grow up to 20 to 30 cm in length. The pulp of the fruit is edible and can be eaten out of hand or diluted in water to make a refreshing drink, which can easily be found on restaurant menus.

Currency

The Euro (€).

The Euro (€).

The official currency of Mayotte is the Euro (€), with €1 currently (June 2019) worth US$1.11.

Several French banks in downtown Mamoudzou provide ATM’s. Outside of the capital, there are very few ATM’s, and most businesses only accept cash or cheques (from French banks) which are still in wide-spread use in the French world.

Costs

Mayotte is not cheap! It’s a mystery why a glass of freshly squeezed juice, made from abundantly available, local, tropical fruit should cost €7!

Sample costs: 

  • Cappuccino at Caribou Hotel: €3 (US$3.36)
  • Fresh Fruit Juice at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
  • Car hire (compact car per day): €75 (US$84)
  • Litre of fuel: €1.34 (US$1.50)
  • Salad at Caribou Hotel: €15 (US$16.80)
  • Main course at Caribou Hotel: €27 (US$30.24)
  • Dessert at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
  • Room in a budget hotel (Airbnb apartment): (US$80)
  • Room in a mid-range hotel (Maharajah Hotel): €144 (US$160)

Sights

Mamoudzou

The 'Place Mariage' is the prettiest part of downtown Mamoudzou, offering boutiques, travel agents and electronics shops.

The ‘Place Mariage’ is the prettiest part of downtown Mamoudzou, offering boutiques, travel agents and electronics shops.

Mamoudzou is a charmless, soulless capital which offers little of interest for the visitor. With chaotic streets full of litter, a few hours would be enough to explore the small downtown area, the waterfront and the central market. There’s no reason to stay in town unless you’re here on government duties or for business.

Like their African sisters, the Mahorais woman wear colourful clothing made from African wax printed fabrics.

Like their African sisters, the Mahorais woman wear colourful clothing made from African wax printed fabrics.

The main street, the Rue du Commerce, is lined with shops selling cheap Chinese products, with the occasional clothing store offering a splash of colour.

Spices for sale in Mamoudzou central market.

Spices for sale in Mamoudzou central market.

Located on the waterfront, next to the Office de Tourisme, Mamoudzou Central market offers local produce and spices.

The marina in Mamoudzou harbour is home to pleasure craft, all of which are owned by French ex-pats.

The marina in Mamoudzou harbour is home to pleasure craft, all of which are owned by French ex-pats.

The waterfront in Mamoudzou is home to several informal take-away restaurants which have been setup in shipping containers. A marina is home to various small pleasure craft which are used for weekend recreation by the ex-pat community.

A view of Mamoudzou harbour from the 'Auberge du Rond-Point' restaurant.

A view of Mamoudzou harbour from the ‘Auberge du Rond-Point’ restaurant.

Dzaoudzi

A view of Dzaoudzi from the Inter-island barge.

A view of Dzaoudzi from the Inter-island barge.

Petite Terre is comprised of two islands; the smaller Dzaoudzi and the larger Pamanzi, which are connected by a causeway. Dzaoudzi is the terminus for the inter-island barge while Pamanzi is home to the Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

Until 1962, Dzaoudzi served as the capital of the entire Comoros. Today, this sleepy settlement is Mayotte’s administrative centre and home to Mayotte’s only museum.

The small Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi provides an overview of Mayotte culture, fauna and flora.

The small Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi provides an overview of Mayotte culture, fauna and flora.

Opened in September 2015, the Musée MUMA (open: 9 am – 5 pm every day except Sunday) is the only attraction in Dzaoudzi and the only museum in the territory.

The skeleton of a Sperm Whale at the Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi.

The skeleton of a Sperm Whale at the Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi.

The small museum provides an insight into the culture, environment, archaeology and traditions of Mayotte and includes an impressive skeleton from a Sperm Whale which was found in 1995 in the lagoon.

Pamanzi

Located on Petite Terre, the water in Dziani Dzaha crater lake is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.

Located on Petite Terre, the water in Dziani Dzaha crater lake is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.

Located on Pamanzi, the beautiful crater lake of Dziani Dzaha where the emerald-coloured water is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.

Les ULM de Mayotte

Pamanzi is home to the only airport on Mayotte and its where you’ll find the wonderful Les ULM de Mayotte, who offer spectacular ultra-light flights over the island, which was the highlight of my trip. Operating from a small wooden cabin, a short distance from the airport, Les ULM de Mayotte are open every day, except Sunday and Monday. Advance reservation is recommended and credit cards are not accepted. 

My competent pilot, Fred, and his Skyranger ultra-light plane.

My competent pilot, Fred, and his Skyranger ultralight plane.

I flew with the very capable Fred in his 2-seater Skyranger Ultralight which weighs just 250 kg when empty.

Fred giving me the safety briefing. The plane is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.

Fred giving me the safety briefing. The plane is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.

Constructed from aluminium tubes and fibreglass panels, the plane has a built-in parachute which can be activated in the event of an emergency, allowing the plane to float back to earth. After a safety briefing, we departed from the airport and flew a one-hour loop over the lagoon and the southern half of Mayotte.

Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.

Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.

After spending a week exploring the territory by road, it was great to be able to view the island from above. My window had a large cut-out section which allowed me to photograph ‘outside the plane’.

One of the many highlights was a loop around the summit of Mont Choungui which is an ancient, conical volcanic mountain and the 2nd highest point on the island at 593 m (1,946 ft).

Flying over the island of Chissioua Mbouzi, en route to the airport.

Flying over the island of Chissioua Mbouzi, en route to the airport.

Sakouli Beach

A panoramic view of Sakouli beach.

A panoramic view of Sakouli beach.

Remote and wild, Sakouli beach is located on a remote stretch of the south-east coast, between baobabs and brown volcanic sand.

One of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Sakouli attracts day-trippers from Mamoudzou and is home to the best accommodation on Mayotte – the O’lolo Hôtel (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) which offers tastefully decorated rooms bungalows overlooking the beach.

N’Gouja Beach

N'Gouja beach is the prettiest beach on Mayotte and home to many sea turtles.

N’Gouja beach is the prettiest beach on Mayotte and home to many sea turtles.

Located on the southwest coast of Grand Terre, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay. Considered the best beach on Mayotte, its remote location ensures the beach is free of the usual litter. The beach is home to one of the few accommodation options on this part of the island, the Jardin Maoré (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below).

An aerial view of N'Gouja beach from my Ultralight flight.

An aerial view of N’Gouja beach from my Ultralight flight.

Diving is available through Jardin Maoré while an offshore sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles which makes for great snorkelling (see the ‘Diving‘ section below). A sign at the entrance gate indicates that parking costs €20 which is only enforced on the busy weekends. I visited during the week and paid nothing!

The view of the south coast at Kanikeli.

The view of the south coast at Kanikeli.

Boueni

The volcanic-sand beach at Boueni.

The volcanic-sand beach at Boueni.

The west coast town of Boueni offers a brown-sand beach, two restaurants and one terrible accommodation option – Les Pieds dans l’Eau (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below). A shallow onshore reef makes this beach less than ideal for swimming.

Sada

Watching the sunset from Sada beach with the island of Chissioua Sada in the background.

Watching the sunset from Sada beach with the island of Chissioua Sada in the background.

The west coast town of Sada is home to one of the best restaurants on Mayotte, Nasso na Bisso, (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more) and one of the best accommodation options I found on Mayotte – Maison Fleurie (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more).

The town makes an ideal base while exploring the west coast and offers spectacular sunsets from the beach.

North Coast

The offshore island of Chissioua Handréma is popular with weekend boaters.

The offshore island of Chissioua Handréma is popular with weekend boaters.

The north coast of Mayotte features rugged mountains which descend to the sea. The best viewpoint is at the picturesque Baie de Handréma which offers views over the island of Chissioua Handréma .

Storm clouds over Baie de Handréma, one of the best views on the north coast.

Storm clouds over Baie de Handréma, one of the best views on the north coast.

Diving/ Snorkelling

Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.

Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.

Located in the west coast town of M’zouasia, Abalone Plongée offers diving from their beach-side dive shop. Abalone are one of the few dive operators on Mayotte and are very popular. At the time of my visit, they were booked out for the next five days. Best to book in advance via their website! Single dives with full equipment rental cost €57 (US$63).

Located on the southwest coast, N'Gouja beach is home to a large sea-grass bed which attracts lots of turtles.

Located on the southwest coast, N’Gouja beach is home to a large sea-grass bed which attracts lots of turtles.

A short distance offshore from the beautiful N’Gouja beach, a sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles, making this a popular snorkelling spot. Diving at N’Gouja beach can be arranged through the Dive Centre at Jardin Maoré.

Accommodation

The biggest hotel on Mayotte, the 70 room, 3-star, Maharajah hotel.

The biggest hotel on Mayotte, the 70 room, 3-star, Maharajah hotel.

The accommodation scene on Mayotte is very disappointing and could best be described as ‘2-star facilities at 5-star prices‘. There is a complete lack of hotels on the island, and those few that do exist are normally fully booked by the French government and French companies. The best chance of securing accommodation is in one of the beach-side bungalow properties which can be found away from the capital.

With a limited number of hotels, and a complete lack of competition, the few existing properties are always running at close to 100% occupancy, so there’s no need to try too hard and no need to spend money on upgrading facilities. Most properties are old and tired and wouldn’t attract many customers in the real world.

The one saving grace is Airbnb which has about 40 properties listed. However, almost all of these are private rooms in family houses rather than private apartments.

Grande Terre

My Airbnb apartment in Mamoudzou.

My Airbnb apartment in Mamoudzou.

Mamoudzou

Hotel Maharajah

With 70 rooms, the 3-star Hotel Maharajah is the largest hotel on Mayotte and a popular choice with French Gendarmerie (police) who seem to occupy most of the rooms, leaving just a few rooms for visitors. At the time of my visit, the only room available was a suite for €280 (US$312) per night. Mamoudzou is hardly Monaco! The cheapest rooms on booking.com or hotels.com average €144 per night (US$160).

Hôtel Caribou

Also downtown is the old and faded 2-star Hôtel Caribou which is in need to a complete makeover – but since there’s no competition in town, why spend the money! Like the few other hotels on Mayotte, the Caribou normally operates at close to 100% and is a popular choice for visiting French businessmen. The hotel restaurant/ bar is very popular, with Karaoke once a week.

Sakouli Beach

The O'lolo Hôtel overlooks Sakouli beach which is home to some impressive Baobab trees.

The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks Sakouli beach which is home to some impressive Baobab trees.

The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks the popular east coast beach of Sakouli, a volcanic sand beach which is framed by towering Baobab trees. Tastefully decorated, wooden bungalows, start at €110 (US$123). The onsite restaurant provides the only food for miles around.

N’Gouja Beach

Located on N’Gouja beach, Jardin Maoré offers simple bungalows from €160 (US$177) per night. An onsite restaurant offers the best food on the south coast.

Boueni

Located on the beach in the west coast town of Boueni, Les Pieds dans l’Eau (Feet in the Water) is a loveless, soulless place which offers rundown, hostel style accommodation for €45 per room.

Some rooms have bathrooms, some have shared bathrooms. There’s a communal kitchen with cupboards which are devoid of any utensils or cooking equipment. A very uninspiring breakfast is served each morning in a plastic container which is left in the kitchen. The owners are largely absent and room service is non-existent. Not recommended!

Sada

In Sada, I stayed in the brand new Maison Fleurie which I booked on Airbnb. It was the 2nd best accommodation I found on Mayotte. The owners of this private residence have built several self-contained, very comfortable, apartments on the 2nd floor of their large home.

The property is located on an unmarked country lane which is not on Google Maps. I organised for the owners to meet me at the nearby Nasso na Bisso restaurant (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more on this excellent restaurant) who then escorted me to their home.

Highly recommended!

The living room of my Airbnb apartment at Maison Fleurie in Sada.

The living room of my Airbnb apartment at Maison Fleurie in Sada.

Petite Terre

Dzaoudzi

Overlooking the barge dock in Dzaoudzi, Le Rocher is the only hotel on Petite Terre, offering 22 old and dated rooms from €109 – 199. The hotel is normally 100% booked by French businessmen and French Civil Servants, so best to reserve well in advance.

Labattoir

My Airbnb room in Labattoir.

My Airbnb room in Labattoir.

Since Le Rocher was never available, I stayed at an Airbnb in the nearby town of Labattoir. Like other Airbnb properties on Mayotte, the owners met me at the airport to escort me to their property since the neighbourhood was makeshift (largely a slum) and none of the streets were on Google Maps.

Located on a hill, overlooking the sea, the stylish, modern, neat and tide, tastefully designed, 2-storey house felt like anything in France, but outside the high security walls, litter was strewn everywhere and the neighbours lived in makeshift shacks constructed from corrugated iron sheets.

Eating Out

My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou, the charming Auberge du Rond-Point offers wonderful meals.

My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou, the charming Auberge du Rond-Point offers wonderful meals.

Like the accommodation scene, restaurants are in short supply on Mayotte. While there are several restaurants in Mamoudzou and on Petite Terre, elsewhere options are very limited.

Grande Terre

Mamoudzou

The Auberge du Rond-Point.

The Auberge du Rond-Point.

My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou is the charming Auberge du Rond-Point which is located across the road from the Town Hall. Offering alfresco dining with magnificent views over the harbour, the best deal here is the ‘lunchtime express‘ menu. For €20 you get a main course, dessert and coffee – a bargain for Mayotte.

The lunch menu at Auberge du Rond-Point is good value at €20.

The lunch menu at Auberge du Rond-Point is good value at €20.

The restaurant at the Hôtel Caribou is a local institution and always busy. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant provides reasonable food at less-than-reasonable prices. With a fresh fruit juice costing €7, main courses costing €25-30, the restaurant takes advantage of the fact that there are very few dining options for visitors in Mayotte.

Food stalls at Mamoudzou central market offer affordable local food.

Food stalls at Mamoudzou central market offer affordable local food.

A much better value meal, in less salubrious surroundings, can be found at the Mamoudzou Central Market which is home to several outdoor food stalls which offer cheap, local BBQ meals.

One of the best restaurants in the country is the very small but excellent Nasso na Bisso (open: 12–3 pm & 7–10 pm every day except Sunday) which is located in a quiet side street in the west coast town of Sada. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant is famous for its hamburgers, which are amazing.

Petite Terre

An amazing dinner at Le Faré - veal in a creamy mustard sauce with fresh pasta.

An amazing dinner at Le Faré – veal in a creamy mustard sauce with fresh pasta.

The best restaurant on Mayotte is, without a doubt, the incredible and impeccable Le Faré (open: 11 am – 1 am every day except Monday and Tuesday).

The friendly French crew who own and run this fine dining restaurant offer amazing French cuisine, cocktails, craft beers and wine, all served in a beautifully designed environment.

In the evening, a towering baobab tree in the garden is lit with fairy lights with dining tables arranged under the huge limbs. Appetisers average €16, main courses €22-26 and amazing desserts €12-15. This is one place not to be missed!

Visa Requirements

Mayotte passport stamps.

Mayotte passport stamps.

Mayotte is a French overseas territory, but it is not part of the Schengen Zone and, as such, applies its own visa policy. While French and European passport holders can reside for an unlimited period, many other nationalities can remain for 3 to 6 months.

Getting There

The modern terminal at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

The modern terminal at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

Air

On approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

On approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

All flights into Mayotte arrive at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport (IATA: DZA) which is located on the smaller island of Petite-Terre, a short barge ride east of the main island of Grande-Terre.

The airport serves as the base for Ewa Air, the small, local airline which provides (expensive) connections to the neighbouring countries of Comoros, Madagascar, Mozambique and Tanzania.

Ewa Air and Air Austral at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

Ewa Air and Air Austral at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Mayotte:

  • AB Aviation – flies to/from Anjouan, Moheli, Moroni
  • Air Austral – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Saint-Denis de la Réunion
  • Air Madagascar – flies to/from Antananarivo, Antsiranana, Majunga
  • Ewa Air – flies to/from Anjouan, Antsiranana, Dar es Salaam, Majunga, Moroni, Nosy Be, Pemba (MZ)
  • Kenya Airways – flies to/from Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta

Airport Transport

Shared mini-vans and taxis connect the airport with the barge at Dzaoudzi wharf for a few Euro’s.

Sea

I was very fortunate to see one of just three cruise ships which call at Mayotte each year - the MV Silversea Whisper.

I was very fortunate to see one of just three cruise ships which call at Mayotte each year – the MV Silversea Whisper.

A grand total of three cruise ships call at Mayotte each year, you can check the schedule here. My stay coincided with the arrival, on the 7th of April, of the MV Silversea Whisper.

Getting Around

Public Transport

There are no public buses on Mayotte! As you drive around the island, you’ll have the opportunity to pick up many appreciative locals as everyone hitch-hikes.

Taxi

Shared taxis are available on Petite Terre and Grande Terre with fares within Mamoudzou costing €1.10. Beyond Mamoudzou, fares to neighbouring villages cost €1.30.

Ferry

Financed by the European Union, the Karihani Barge docked at Mamoudzou.

Financed by the European Union, the Karihani Barge docked at Mamoudzou.

Inter-island barges connect the two islands of Petite Terre and Grande Terre, carrying passengers and vehicles. With a crossing time of 20 minutes, barges depart on the half hour and operate seven days a week as per the following schedule:

  • Monday to Thursday
    Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
    Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00
  • Friday
    Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
    Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
  • Saturday
    Every 1/2 hour of 06h00 à 20h00
    Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
  • Sunday and public holidays
    Every half hour from 7h00 to 20h00
    Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00
On board the Karihani barge.

On board the Karihani barge.

Fares are charged only when departing from Mamoudzou, with the passenger fare costing € 0.75, while a car costs €15.

Rental Car

My rental car on the inter-island ferry.

My rental car on the inter-island ferry.

The best way to maximise your time on Mayotte is to rent a car from one of the agents at the airport. The supply of cars on Mayotte is limited so it’s best to book well in advance. Once you have your car, your first drive will be to the inter-island ferry which connects Petite Terre to Grande Terre.

Mayotte Travel Guide: The license plate of my rental car bearing the Mayotte department number of 976.

The license plate of my rental car bearing the Mayotte department number of 976.

The following agents (who speak partial English) have branches at the airport and also in downtown Mamoudzou:

A rental car is the best way to explore Mayotte.

A rental car is the best way to explore Mayotte.

 


That’s the end of my Mayotte Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

You might also be interested in reading other taste2travel articles from the region:

Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide Mayotte Travel Guide

French Polynesia Travel Guide

The lagoon at Mangareva, the main island of the Gambier Islands, one of five archipelagoes in French Polynesia.

French Polynesia Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel French Polynesia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: August 2018 and June 2024

Introduction

From its dazzling, turquoise-blue, lagoons to its emerald-coloured, razor-back, volcanic peaks, French Polynesia is a veritable south Pacific paradise.

Colourful sarongs on sale at Papeete central market.

Colourful sarongs on sale at Papeete central market.

For many years, I’d dreamed of travelling to French Polynesia but the cost of flights was always prohibitive.

Then, one day recently, I learned of a little French Bee. In my opinion, the French low-cost carrier, French Bee, is the saviour of tourism in French Polynesia.

A view of the central market in Papeete, a great place for souvenir shopping.

A view of the central market in Papeete, a great place for souvenir shopping.

The airline flies from its base in Paris, to a number of popular holiday destinations around the world, including Tahiti, with flights departing Paris-Orly (with a stopover in San Francisco), every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday.

Refer to the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details on flights to French Polynesia.

Church steeples on Tahiti.

Church steeples on Tahiti.

French Polynesia has never been a cheap destination and while it’s now more affordable to reach, travel costs, once on the ground, are still high.

Handmade necklaces for sale at Papeete central market.

Handmade necklaces for sale at Papeete central market.

While ‘deluxe’ resorts are the mainstay of the tourism industry, there are plenty of smaller lodges and guesthouses which offer affordable accommodation options and the renown, roulottes (mobile food vans), serve up delicious, budget-friendly meals, each evening on the waterfront in the capital – Papeete (pronounced – [PAA] + [PEE] + [AY] + [TEE]).

Hand-painted Batik on sale at Papeete Central market.

Hand-painted Batik on sale at Papeete Central market.

You could spend months exploring the 4,000 square kilometres of this vast territory, one which contains five separate archipelagos.

I have visited French Polynesia two times.

During my first visit in August 2018, I explored the main island of Tahiti and neighbouring Moorea.

Welcome to Tahiti and French Polynesia!

Welcome to Tahiti and French Polynesia!

On my 2nd visit in June 2024, I explored the remote Gambier Islands, while en-route to the even remoter Pitcairn Island.

The Church of Saint-Gabriel, one of many historic churches on the remote Gambier Islands.

The Church of Saint-Gabriel, one of many historic churches on the remote Gambier Islands.

All of these destinations are covered in this French Polynesia Travel Guide.

A view of Papeete harbour, the capital of French Polynesia.

A view of Papeete harbour, the capital of French Polynesia.

I enjoyed my time French Polynesia and look forward to returning one day to explore the other archipelagos.

Street art in Papeete.

Street art in Papeete.

Location

Papeete 98714, French Polynesia

 

French Polynesia is located in the South Pacific, almost halfway between Australia (6,000 km to the west) and South America (7,500 km to the east).

Other nearby Pacific Island nations include (click the links to view my travel guides) American Samoa; 2,469 km (1,534 mi) to the northwest, Tonga; 2,733 km (1,698 mi) to the west, Tuvalu; 3,535 km (2,196 mi) to the northwest, New Caledonia; 4,717 km (2,931 mi) to the west and Pitcairn Island; 2,330 km (1,447 mi) to the south-east.

Bird Island, one of many islands in the Gambier Islands archipelago.

Bird Island, one of many islands in the Gambier Islands archipelago.

French Polynesia is comprised of 118 islands, of which 67 are inhabited.

The territory is divided into the Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, Society (home to the main island of Tahiti) and Tuamotu archipelagos, covering more than 4,000 square kilometres of Pacific Ocean – about the size of Europe! 

The many islands of French Polynesia are volcanic in origin, including the main island of Tahiti Nui.

The many islands of French Polynesia are volcanic in origin, including the main island of Tahiti Nui.

People

Polynesian Settlers

The original settlers to French Polynesia were Polynesian peoples who first migrated from Southeast Asia and Taiwan into present-day Polynesia.

It’s believed the original ancestors of the Polynesians left Taiwan 3,000 years ago, stepping from island to island across the Pacific, eventually reaching Easter Island around 700-800 AD.

A map showing the three distinct cultural regions of the Pacific.

A map showing the three distinct cultural regions of the Pacific.
Source: Wikipedia.

These Polynesian explorers first reached the Marquesas Islands in about 200 BC, later ventured southwest, discovering the Society Islands around AD 300.

Colourful sarongs for sale in Papeete central market.

Colourful sarongs for sale in Papeete central market.

They are one of three distinct cultural groups in the Pacific Ocean, the other two being Micronesians and Melanesians.

Following are a list of travel guides I have written for each of these three regions:

Melanesia

Micronesia

Polynesia

Population

The 283,000 inhabitants of French Polynesia are mostly (82%) Polynesian with the remainder of the population composed of European (i.e. French) and Asian immigrants.

Street art in Papeete.

Street art in Papeete.

According to the last census, 68.5% of the population lived on the main island of Tahiti with 50% of the territory’s population living in Papeete.

The buildings of the capital Papeete, feature street art which depict the local Tahitians.

The buildings of the capital Papeete, feature street art which depict the local Tahitians.

Currency & Costs

The Pacific Franc.

The Pacific Franc.

Currency

The Pacific Franc (CFP) is the currency of French Polynesia.

The Pacific Franc (CFP) is the currency of French Polynesia.

The unit of currency in French Polynesia is the cours de franc Pacifique (CFP), which is referred to as the ‘Pacific franc’.

The unit of currency French Polynesia is the Pacific franc.

The unit of currency French Polynesia is the Pacific franc.

Financial institutions abbreviate the currency “XPF“, but in this report I use ‘CFP’.

The 500-franc banknote is the lowest value note - equivalent to US$5/ EUR 5.

The 500-franc banknote is the lowest value note – equivalent to
US$5/ EUR 5.

The same currency is used in the other French Pacific territories of New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna.

The Pacific Franc.

The Pacific Franc.

Exchange Rates

The franc is pegged to the euro at a rate of 1 Euro = 119.33 CFP.

Costs

Menu prices at the Urban Café in Papeete.

Menu prices at the Urban Café in Papeete.

Not cheap!

I met few budget travelers in French Polynesia and for good reason – travel costs are very expensive.

To really enjoy the territory, you’ll need a hefty travel budget.

Sample travel costs:

  • Room in a hostel: 7,000 CFP (USD$67)
  • Room in a Papeete apartment: USD$100
  • Room at the top-end Hilton Moorea Resort: 42,000 CFP (USD$400)
  • Entrée in a tourist restaurant: 1,800 CFP (USD$17)
  • Main course in a tourist restaurant: 2,800 + CFP (USD$27)
  • A pint (.5 L) of local beer: 900 CFP (USD$8.60)
  • A can of Coca Cola (.33 L): 475 CFP (USD$4.50)
  • Water (.33 L): 325 CFP (USD$3.10)
  • Cappuccino: 550 CFP (USD$5.26)
  • A combo meal at McDonald’s: 1,450 CFP (USD$14)

Flag

The flag of French Polynesia.

The flag of French Polynesia.

First adopted in 1984, the flag of French Polynesia consists of two horizontal red bands which surround a wider white band – the two colours being traditional Polynesian colours.

French Polynesia Travel Guide: Souvenir flags of French Polynesia on sale in Papeete.

Souvenir flags of French Polynesia on sale in Papeete.

In the centre is a disk with a blue and white wave pattern depicting the sea on the lower half and a gold and white ray pattern depicting the sun on the upper half.

A Polynesian canoe, featured as street art in Papeete.

A Polynesian canoe, featured as street art in Papeete.

A Polynesian canoe (piroque) rides on the wave pattern; the canoe has a crew of five, represented by five stars, that symbolise the five island groups (Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, Society and Tuamotu) of French Polynesia.

Philately

Postal services in French Polynesia are provided by the Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT), who produce colourful local stamps featuring the fauna, flora, culture (and pretty girls) of the territory.

The colourful stamps of French Polynesia feature local culture, fauna and flora.

The colourful stamps of French Polynesia feature local culture, fauna and flora.

Stamps can be purchased from the philatelic department of the main post office (OPT) in Papeete or online from the Tahiti Philately website.

SIM Cards

A 10Gb Vodaphone SIM card can be purchased at the airport for 1,800 francs.

A 10Gb Vodaphone SIM card can be purchased at the airport for 1,800 francs.

Local network connectivity is a must in French Polynesia, especially if you’ll be driving a rental car and using navigation.

The best deal is offered by Vodaphone who sell a 10Gb SIM card outside the arrivals area at Papeete International Airport, for 1,800 CFP.

Sightseeing

Tahiti

A map showing the larger 'Tahiti Nui' and 'Tahiti Iti' printed onto a sarong.

A map showing the larger ‘Tahiti Nui’ and ‘Tahiti Iti’ printed onto a sarong.

Tahiti is the largest island in French Polynesia and home to almost all the population. Shaped like a figure-8 (to me it looks like a turtle with Tahiti Iti forming the head), it’s divided into Tahiti Nui (the larger, western section) and Tahiti Iti (the smaller, eastern peninsula).

One of the many examples of incredible street art which adorn the buildings of Papeete.

One of the many examples of incredible street art which adorn the buildings of Papeete.

One of the highlights of Tahiti Iti was being able to climb up into the central plateau which offers panoramic views of both islands and lots of bucolic, rural scenes which are unexpected in this part of the world.

Souvenir shopping, at Papeete central market.

Souvenir shopping, at Papeete central market.

Papeete

Funky street art in Papeete.

Funky street art in Papeete.

With a population of 136,771 in its greater urban area, Papeete is home to 50% of the population of French Polynesia.

The city serves as the capital of the main island of Tahiti, and also as the capital of French Polynesia.

Street art adorns many buildings in downtown Papeete.

Street art adorns many buildings in downtown Papeete.

 

The same artwork six years later.

The same artwork six years later.

Offering good shopping, markets, gardens, a picturesque waterfront and a variety of cultural activities, this compact capital can easily be explored in half a day on foot.

Papeete Central Market

Locally made sarongs for sale at Papeete Central Market.

Locally made sarongs for sale at Papeete Central Market.

In the heart of the capital, Papeete central market should be the first stop on any walk around town.

A view of Papeete central market.

A view of Papeete central market.

Apart from the usual fresh produce, there are plenty of souvenir stands, an upstairs foot court and flowers sellers who create spectacular boutiques using local tropical flowers and plants.

Flower seller at Papeete Central Market.

Flower seller at Papeete Central Market.

The market is lively and vibrant and a good place to meet friendly locals and is open on Sunday morning, when everything else in town is closed.

Souvenir shells on sale at Papeete Central Market.

Souvenir shells on sale at Papeete Central Market.

If you wish to buy local souvenirs, clothing, fruit, vegetables, flowers, or a kilo of fresh tuna, this is the place to do it.

Flower sellers at Papeete central market.

Flower sellers at Papeete central market.

As with everything else in this Pacific paradise, nothing is cheap, with a locally made sarong costing around US$28!

Papeete Catholic Cathedral

Papeete Catholic Cathedral.

Papeete Catholic Cathedral.

Across the road from the market, the Papeete Catholic Cathedral, known as Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Papeete, has a modest exterior which belies its richly decorated interior.

A wooden statue inside the Cathedral features 'Madonna and Child', the latter of whom is clutching a breadfruit.

A wooden statue inside the Cathedral features ‘Madonna and Child’, the latter of whom is clutching a breadfruit.

Named after its famous Parisian counterpart, the cathedral, which was completed in 1875, includes artwork that features both European and Polynesian influences.

Notable is the statue of the Madonna and Child which includes the child clutching a Breadfruit, an integral part of the Polynesian diet.

Stained-glass windows inside Papeete Catholic Cathedral.

Stained-glass windows inside Papeete Catholic Cathedral.

Stained-glass windows include artistic representations of the Stations of the Cross, which incorporate both Tahitian and Roman cultures but include only Polynesian people.

The artistic style of the artwork was influenced by Paul Gauguin.

Papeete cathedral.

Papeete cathedral.

Bougainville Park

A bust of French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville, in the park named in his honour.

A bust of French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville, in the park named in his honour.

A short walk from the cathedral is Bougainville Park, which is dedicated to Louis Antoine de Bougainville – a French explorer who believed he had discovered Tahiti and claimed it for France, unaware that less than a year prior it had been discovered by the British explorer, Samuel Wallis.

In a strange twist of geographic-naming-irony, Wallis’s name is now used for one half of the French Territory – Wallis & Fortuna and Bougainville’s name is used for a key island in Papua New Guinea (formerly British New Guinea).

The park features a bust of Bougainville, a giant Banyan tree which provides ample shade, a tranquil stream, benches and lush vegetation.

A nice place to escape the midday heat!

Parliament House

French Polynesia Travel Guide: The parliament of French Polynesia - the Territorial Assembly.

The parliament of French Polynesia – the Territorial Assembly.

Across the road from the park is the Territorial Assembly building, the Parliament house for French Polynesia.

Around Tahiti Nui

The mountainous, volcanic interior of Tahiti Nui is almost impenetrable.

The mountainous, volcanic interior of Tahiti Nui is almost impenetrable.

Traveling around the main island is simply a matter of following the one ring road which circumnavigates the island.

The rugged and impossibly steep interior is almost without roads, which makes sightseeing very easy as everything is located along, or close to, the main ring road and everything is well signposted.

I drove a car around the island for two days which allowed ample time to visit all sights.

Traveling in an anticlockwise direction from Papeete, I visiting the following sights:

Arahurahu Marae

The Arahurahu Marae is located on the west coast, a short drive south of Papeete.

The Arahurahu Marae is located on the west coast, a short drive south of Papeete.

Located in the district of Pa’ea, the relaxing and beautifully maintained Arahurahu Marae is the largest Marae in French Polynesia.

Marae’s in French Polynesia consist of raised stone, rectangular platforms with a raised stone altar, ahu, at the centre of the rectangle.

A Tiki at the entrance to the Arahurahu Marae.

A Tiki at the entrance to the Arahurahu Marae.

Marae’s were used by Polynesians for ceremonial gatherings, religious rituals and other important events.

Maraa Grotto

The incredibly lush Maraa Grotto.

The incredibly lush Maraa Grotto.

Continuing south along the west coast, my next stop was the beautiful Maraa Grotto.

Located directly on the side of the main road, a short walking trail leads you to this gloriously beautiful and lush freshwater grotto, the ceiling of which is covered with ferns dripping with water.

Paul Gauguin was also impressed, mentioning the grotto in his letters home.

Harrison Smith Botanical Garden

The grounds of the Harrison Smith Botanical Garden.

The grounds of the Harrison Smith Botanical Garden.

Located at the 51 km mark, the Harrison Smith Botanical Garden is a little forlorn and unloved but does boast a Giant Galapagos Turtle, which is apparently 90 years old.

You can photograph the poor captive turtle through the wire fence of its enclosure, but if you prefer your turtles ‘free-range’, you can view photos of happier ones in my Galapagos Islands Travel Guide.

Paul Gauguin Museum (Permanently Closed) 

A sneak peek through the front gate of the now closed Paul Gauguin Museum.

A sneak peek through the front gate of the now closed Paul Gauguin Museum.

Located next to the entrance of the botanical garden is the Paul Gauguin Museum, which closed its doors in 2015 and is not scheduled to reopen.

There is a security guard posted at the main gate, who kindly allowed me to take a photo of the museum grounds (from the gate).

Taravao

After the botanical garden, I reached the southern town of Taravao, which provides access to the adjoining island of Tahiti Iti (refer to the next section for more on Tahiti Iti).

A black-sand beach on the east coast of Tahiti.

A black-sand beach on the east coast of Tahiti.

Continuing beyond Taravao, now traveling north, along the east coast of Tahiti Nui, a left turn past the village of Tiarei, leads to the parking lot of the incredibly high – Faarumai Waterfall.

Faarumai Waterfall

The incredibly high Faarumai waterfall is a spectacular sight.

The incredibly high Faarumai waterfall is a spectacular sight.

The falls are a short walk from the car park along a well-maintained track but, since a tourist was hit on the head by a falling rock a few years ago, swimming is not allowed.

Venus Point

A marker at Venus Point commemorates the visit by Captain James Cook in 1769.

A marker at Venus Point commemorates the visit by Captain James Cook in 1769.

The last stop before returning to Papeete was Venus Point, which is located at the tip of a peninsula, 8 km east of Papeete.

The location was visited by Captain James Cook, who, on his first voyage to the Pacific, was tasked with observing the 1769 Transit of Venus from the South Pacific.

Cook’s expedition was funded by the Royal Society of London for the primary purpose of viewing the transit of Venus.

After viewing this astronomical event, Cook got on with his ‘other’ mission which was to find the legendary Terra Australis Incognita – the great southern continent.

Less than a year later, on the 29th of April 1770, Captain Cook first set foot on Australia at Botany Bay in New South Wales and the rest is history.

Tomb King Pōmare V Tahiti

The Tomb of King Pōmare V on Tahiti.

The Tomb of King Pōmare V on Tahiti.

Located a short drive east of Papeete, the tomb of Tahiti’s last king, Pomare V (1839–1891), is built of coral stones in the shape of a small lighthouse, which has a red door and is topped with a red Grecian urn.

The tomb stands on a point at Arue just off the coastal road. Originally built for his mother Queen Pomare IV, Pomare V had her remains exhumed and his were interred instead when he died only a few years later.

Around Tahiti Iti

Tahiti Iti has two coastal roads which extend halfway down the east and west coast and one road which travels up to a central plateau, providing access to a very different part of the country – one which is rural and bucolic.

Teahupo’o

Getting ready for the Tahiti Pro surf competition which is held in August of each year.

Getting ready for the Tahiti Pro surf competition which is held in August of each year.

The west coast road terminates in the village of Teahupo’o which is a famous surf spot and the venue for the annual Tahiti Pro surf competition which was due to commence a week after my visit.

Tautira

The magnificent views from the village of Tautira.

The magnificent views from the village of Tautira.

The east coast road terminates in the picturesque, beachside village of Tautira, which is 49 km southeast of Papeete.

The village offers spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and was once used as a place of convalescence by Scottish author, Robert Louis Stevenson, who referred to it as “The Garden of the World”.

Belvédère de Taravao

A different view of Tahiti from the plateau on Tahiti Iti.

A different view of Tahiti from the plateau on Tahiti Iti.

Before departing Tahiti Iti, it’s worth taking the one other road on the island which climbs up onto a large, central plateau (from Taravao), eventually arriving a panoramic lookout – the Belvédère de Taravao. 

Belvédère de Taravao offers sweeping views of Tahiti Nui and Iti.

Belvédère de Taravao offers sweeping views of Tahiti Nui and Iti.

Moorea

The magical Moorea Lagoon.

The magical Moorea Lagoon.

Like Tahiti, exploring Moorea is made easy thanks to the islands impossibly steep interior.

A single ring road circumnavigates the island with a couple of short roads providing a glimpse of the interior.

Easy on the eye - the turquoise waters of the Moorea lagoon.

Easy on the eye – the turquoise waters of the Moorea lagoon.

There is almost no public transport on Moorea so I hired a car (not cheap!) for the duration of my stay on the island.

Following the ring road in an anticlockwise direction from the ferry terminal in Vai’are, I visited the following sights:

A view of the Sofitel Moorea resort and the stunning lagoon from the lookout,

A view of the Sofitel Moorea resort and the stunning lagoon from the lookout.

The first stop was the roadside lookout above the Hotel Sofitel Moorea which provides panoramic views of neighbouring Tahiti, the turquoise lagoon and the over-water bungalows of the resort.

A right-hand turn to a popular public beach lies just beyond the lookout.

Hand-printed sarong for sale on Moorea.

Hand-printed sarong for sale on Moorea.

Beyond the lookout, the road curves to the left, passing the airport before arriving in the small village of Maharepa where I stopped (more than once) to eat at the amazing Café Caraméline (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more on this delicious place).

After Maharepa, the road sweeps to the left, entering the incredibly scenic and narrow Cooks Bay (named after the man himself).


A Detour into the heartland of Moorea

Route des Ananas

A young pineapple on one of the plantations that line the 'Route des Ananas'.

A young pineapple on one of the plantations that line the ‘Route des Ananas’.

From Cooks Bay, a left-hand turn leads off the main ring road and onto the signposted Route des Ananas (The Pineapple Route).

A pineapple plantation on the 'Route des Ananas'.

A pineapple plantation on the ‘Route des Ananas’.

Belvedere Lookout

This is one of two roads which provide access to the interior of the island, with the route passing through huge pineapple plantations before joining up with the one other interior road – which winds its way up through many switch-back turns to the lofty Belvedere Lookout.

Created by ancient volcanoes, Moorea is incredibly rugged and beautiful.Created by ancient volcanoes, Moorea is incredibly rugged and beautiful.

Created by ancient volcanoes, Moorea is incredibly rugged and beautiful.

The lookout offers breath-taking views of the north coast of Moorea and is the starting point of numerous walking trails which provide access to the jagged peaks and ridges which form the craggy backbone of the island.

Marae Titiroa

The eerily beautiful Marae Titiroa.

The eerily beautiful Marae Titiroa.

Below the lookout, in the densely forested Opunohu Valley, lie an impressive collection of ruins, the largest of which is the (signposted) Marae Titiroa, which is located next to a roadside car park.

The marae, which is surrounded by overgrown Tahitian Chestnut trees, features a stone altar at one end; with small standing stones in the centre of the platform where the chiefs and priests once sat.

When I visited, I had the complex to myself since most visitors to the island are there to enjoy the beach.


Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery

Promotional material at the Rotui Juice Factory.

Promotional material at the Rotui Juice Factory.

Back on the main ring road beyond Cooks Bay, a side road in the village of Piha’ena leads to the foot of Mount Rotui and the industrial complex which is the Manutea Tahiti – Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery.

The production line at the Rotui Juice Factory.

The production line at the Rotui Juice Factory.

This is the company responsible for all the concentrated fruit juice served throughout the territory and a factory visit will shed light on how fresh fruit is turned into carton juice.

Papetoai

The Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort.

The Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort.

Back on the ring road, the next deluxe, ‘over-the-water bungalow’ accommodation option is the stunningly located Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort which is located in the village of Papetoai.

If your budget can’t cover the Hilton, there are some backpacker lodges in the neighbourhood.

A Brown Noddy at the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort.

A Brown Noddy at the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort.

Further along the north coast, in the village of Tiahura, is the equally impressive Intercontinental Resort Moorea which is home to the highly recommended scuba diving operation – Top Dive (see the following section for more on Scuba diving).

Sunset on Moorea.

Sunset on Moorea.

Scuba Diving 

'Top Dive' did provide a top diving experience.

‘Top Dive’ did provide a top diving experience.

While on Moorea, I went scuba diving with the professional and competent team from Top Dive, who operate out of the Intercontinental Resort Moorea.

The warm waters of the lagoon offer an abundance of marine life, including Lemon sharks, lots of colourful coral and visibility that has to be seen to be believed – excuse the pun!


Video:

I filmed the following video of a cruising Lemon shark on one of my dives with Top Dive – magic stuff!


Gambier Islands

Bird Island, a small coral atoll, is one of the 14 islands which comprise the Gambier Islands.

Bird Island, a small coral atoll, is one of the 14 islands which comprise the Gambier Islands.

Lying 1,674 km to the east of Papeete, the Gambier Islands are the furthest archipelago from Tahiti and the most isolated.

There is a one-hour time difference between the Gambier Islands (UTC-9) and Tahiti (UTC -10).

This group of, small, mostly uninhabited, islands occupy a 24 km2, turquoise, lagoon which is extraordinarily beautiful.

A fragment of an old wall on Taravai Island, which offers a view of the Church of Saint-Gabriel and the twin hearts of Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus.

A fragment of an old wall on Taravai Island, which offers a view of the Church of Saint-Gabriel and the twin hearts of Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus.

The lagoon is the centre of black pearl production in French Polynesia.

The only town in the archipelago is Rikitea (pop: 1,300 souls) which is located on the main island of Mangareva.

In terms of tourism, the Gambier Islands are the least visited islands in French Polynesia.

Reached on twice weekly flights (Tuesday and Saturday) from Papeete, the US$886 (return) flight ticket ensures that only the most dedicated visit this remote corner of French Polynesia.

The archipelago is served by Totegegie Airport (IATA: GMR) which is located on an uninhabited coral atoll, a 40-minute ferry ride from Mangareva.

There is also a complete lack of accommodation options on the islands, with just a few basic homestays available on Mangareva.


Mangareva Banking Services:

Bring all the cash you’ll need from Papeete.

There are no banks or ATM’s anywhere in the Gambier Islands and credit cards are not accepted anywhere. 


Tip: 

Since there’s no access to cash anywhere on Mangareva, it’s best to book and pay for your accommodation online, using Airbnb, thereby taking care of your major expense on Mangareva. 

For more information, please refer to the ‘Accommodation‘ section below.


Mangareva Island

St. Michael's Cathedral, the largest church in the South Pacific is a highlight of Mangareva.

St. Michael’s Cathedral, the largest church in the South Pacific is a highlight of Mangareva.

Sleepy Mangareva is the central and largest island of the Gambier Islands in French Polynesia.

The island is approximately eight kilometres (5 mi) long and, at 15 km2 it comprises about 56% of the total land area of the Gambier Island group.

A view of the lagoon at Mangareva Island, the main island of the Gambier archipelago.

A view of the lagoon at Mangareva Island, the main island of the Gambier archipelago.

A single, 28-km long, road follows the coast around the island, offering stunning views of the lagoon and the many distant motu’s (flat reef islets).

Mangareva has a permanent population of 1,300 – with almost everyone living in the one town of Rikitea.

Everyone knows everyone here. It’s one big family!

One of many historic churches on Mangareva Island.

One of many historic churches on Mangareva Island.

In terms of tourist infrastructure, there is hardly any!

A few family homestays provide basic accommodation, while the only dining options are a couple of rudimentary snack shops in Rikitea which close up at 1 pm.

If you are looking for an authentic French Polynesian travel experience, in a place far from the commercial trappings of Tahiti, then the Gambier Islands are the perfect destination.

A view of the turquoise waters of Mangareva Lagoon.

A view of the turquoise waters of Mangareva Lagoon.

The easiest way to explore Mangareva is with a rental car which will cost €50 per day. I hired a car through my guest house.

The sights of the island can be easily covered in half a day.

Exploring the island of Mangareva in my rental car.

Exploring the island of Mangareva in my rental car.

The highest point in the Gambier’s is Mount Duff, on Mangareva, rising to 441 metres (1,447 ft) along the island’s south coast.


Video: 

Driving on Mangareva Island in my rental car.


The island is heavily wooded and is a favourite nesting site for migratory seabirds such as White terns, Frigate birds and Brown noddy’s.

A view of Mangareva Lagoon from my Air Tahiti flight.

A view of Mangareva Lagoon from my Air Tahiti flight.

Mangareva is surrounded by a lagoon which is 24-km (15 mi) in diameter, containing reefs whose fish and shellfish helped ancient islanders survive much more successfully than on nearby islands with no reefs.

A view of the lagoon at Mangareva Island, the centre of black pearl production in French Polynesia.

A view of the lagoon at Mangareva Island, the centre of black pearl production in French Polynesia.

The lagoon is the main centre of black pearl production in French Polynesia, with most pearls finding their way to expensive shops in Papeete.

A small number of retailers in Rikitea (opposite the Gendarmerie office) sell black pearls for prices much lower than what you’ll pay in Papeete.

European Influence
A highlight of Mangareva is the ornate altar at St. Michael's Cathedral, which is adorned with mother-of-pearl and black pearls.

A highlight of Mangareva is the ornate altar at St. Michael’s Cathedral, which is adorned with mother-of-pearl and black pearls.

A significant change in the culture of the local Polynesian population in the Gambier archipelago was inaugurated by the French-Catholic missionaries, Father Honoré Laval and Father François Caret, of the Congregation for the Sacred Hearts who came to Mangareva in 1834.

When the missionaries arrived, they counted 2,124 souls. Increasing contact with the outside world brought contagious diseases to Mangareva savagely decimating the population.

There had already been several major epidemics before 1863, including one which is said to have killed half the population.

At first the missionaries met with opposition, but after King Te Ma-puteoa and his chiefs became converted, the whole population followed suit.

Father Laval acquired an extraordinary influence over the people. The traditional open temples were dismantled and the wooden images of their gods were burnt, except a few that were sent back to Europe.

Father Laval built 116 stone buildings and arches, and roads were laid.

Buildings included schools, convents, churches, a fortified palace as well as St. Michael’s Cathedral which has been characterised as a folly.

The structures were built with shaped coral stone blocks.

On the site of the former Te Keika marae in Rikitea, St. Michael’s Cathedral (the largest church in the South Pacific), was constructed in stone, and the cut coral blocks that had formed the bench along the front of the marae were included.

The local people became expert stone masons, and the chiefs had stone houses built for themselves.

Whenever Father Laval wanted to construct of a new church, in order to gain approval from King Te Ma-puteoa, he would offer to build the king a stone palace next to the church.

Such palaces can be seen today in Rikitea (in the adjacent school yard) and on Akamaru Island.

Stone is a fitting material for temples and churches but not for dwelling houses in the hot and humid climate of Polynesia.

St. Michael’s Cathedral still functions, but today the stone palace of Te Ma-puteoa and the stone houses of the chiefs in the various villages are roofless and deserted.

Father Caret is buried inside St. Michael’s Cathedral in Rikitea.

Sights

St. Michael’s Cathedral

The largest church in the South Pacific, St. Michael's Cathedral features 18 ochre columns which support the central vault.

The largest church in the South Pacific, St. Michael’s Cathedral features 18 ochre columns which support the central vault.

The highlight of Rikitea is St. Michael’s Cathedral, the largest church in the South Pacific and the first church to be built in French Polynesia.

A highlight of St. Michael's Cathedral in Rikitea is the ornate altar, which features Mother-of-pearl, shells and black pearls.

A highlight of St. Michael’s Cathedral in Rikitea is the ornate altar, which features Mother-of-pearl, shells and black pearls.

The islands are home to many historic churches, which were constructed by Father Laval and Father Caret, of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary.

The prized altar at St. Michael's Cathedral features mother-of-pearl, black pearls, shells and more.

The prized altar at St. Michael’s Cathedral features mother-of-pearl, black pearls, shells and more.

St. Michael’s Cathedral was built at a brisk pace between 1839 and 1848 and served as the principal church in the Gambier Islands and in all of French Polynesia.

St. Michael's Cathedral was constructed by missionaries of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary.

St. Michael’s Cathedral was constructed by missionaries of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary.

Father Laval’s intention was to be able to gather the entire population of Mangareva under one roof for mass. 

Laval managed to convince the local chief, King Te Ma-puteoa, of its necessity by using its construction to also erect the nearby palace. 

The cross which adorns the altar of St. Michael's Cathedral is covered in oyster shells.

The cross which adorns the altar of St. Michael’s Cathedral is covered in oyster shells.

The cathedral is built entirely out of coral stone and lime from a quarry 16 km from Rikitea. 

The building, which is built from coral rock, measures 48 metres (157 ft) in length, is 18 metres (59 ft) wide, and rises to a height of 21 metres (69 ft). It can seat 1200 people.

A statue of the Virgin Mary at St. Michael's Cathedral, surrounded by mother-of-pearl, shells and black pearls.

A statue of the Virgin Mary at St. Michael’s Cathedral, surrounded by mother-of-pearl, shells and black pearls.

The church is thrice the size of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Papeete!

The interior is composed of an impressively large vault which is constructed from reeds, coconut husks and coral lime.

A view of the ornate altar at St. Michael's Cathedral on Mangareva.

A view of the ornate altar at St. Michael’s Cathedral on Mangareva.

What is especially striking about the cathedral is the decoration of its truly ornate altar

Mother-of-pearl flowers, with black pearls at their centre, decorate the altar at St. Michael's Cathedral in Rikitea.

Mother-of-pearl flowers, with black pearls at their centre, decorate the altar at St. Michael’s Cathedral in Rikitea.

Adorned by hundreds of black pearls and mother-of-pearl shells, there is nothing quite like it anywhere in the Pacific. 

Mother-of-pearl, black pearls, shells and more are used for decoration at St. Michael's Cathedral.

Mother-of-pearl, black pearls, shells and more are used for decoration at St. Michael’s Cathedral.

Originally, the altar was adorned by a 50-carat black pearl given to Laval by King Maputeoa.

When Laval was ordered back to Tahiti in 1871, he had the massive pearl shipped to Rome where it is now part of the Vatican collection, rumored to be the finest pearl in the Pope’s collection.

Mother-of-Pearl decoration on the altar of St. Michael's Cathedral in Mangareva, Gambier Islands.

Mother-of-Pearl decoration on the altar of St. Michael’s Cathedral in Mangareva, Gambier Islands.

St. Pierre Cemetery

A view of St. Pierre's Chapel, the burial site of King Te Ma-puteoa, and the cemetery in Rikitea.

A view of St. Pierre’s Chapel, the burial site of King Te Ma-puteoa, and the cemetery in Rikitea.

The last King of the Gambier Islands, King Te Ma-puteoa, is buried in a crypt in St. Pierre’s Chapel which is located on a hill above Rikitea, near to the meteorological station.

During Ma-puteoa’s reign, the country, which was deeply rooted in native beliefs and even cannibalism, became a Roman Catholic community.

St. Pierre's Chapel, the burial site of King Te Ma-puteoa.

St. Pierre’s Chapel, the burial site of King Te Ma-puteoa.

This was accomplished by removing all vestiges of native beliefs, including the building of churches over the top of native marae’s (meeting houses).

The tomb of King Te Ma-puteoa, who, after baptism changed his name to Gregorio in honor of Pope Gregory XVI.

The tomb of King Te Ma-puteoa, who, after baptism changed his name to Gregorio in honor of Pope Gregory XVI.

The king was baptised into Catholicism on 25 August 1836.

He took the name Gregorio after baptism in honor of Pope Gregory XVI who had deputed the missionaries to eastern Oceania, and solemnly placed his islands under the protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

He learned about Christianity from the island’s missionaries, headed by Fathers Honoré Laval and François Caret.

Following the death of his father, King Te Ma-puteoa became King at the age of 10, but, due to poor health died at the age of 21!

St. Anne’s Chapel

Built in 1847, the gift-box sized St. Anne's Chapel measures just 7x7 metres.

Built in 1847, the gift-box sized St. Anne’s Chapel measures just 7×7 metres.

The smallest of all the churches in the Gambier Islands, the very cute St. Anne’s Chapel in Rikitea was constructed in 1847 and measures just 7×7 metres.

The chapel is located a short stroll from the port (turn right when leaving the port).

During my visit, it was closed for renovations.

Mangareva Lagoon Boat Trip

Exploring the sights of stunning Mangareva Lagoon, on a day trip with the friendly crew from Pension Maro’i.

Exploring the sights of stunning Mangareva Lagoon, on a day trip with the friendly crew from Pension Maro’i.

A highlight of my visit to the Gambier Islands was a full day spent on a small speed boat, exploring the various islands, and sights, of the stunningly beautiful Mangareva lagoon, with the incredible team from Pension Maro’i.

A weekly boat trip which visits the islands of Mangareva Lagoon is offered every Thursday by Pension Maro'i.

A weekly boat trip which visits the islands of Mangareva Lagoon is offered every Thursday by Pension Maro’i.

The tour is conducted every Thursday and will normally be joined by any of the small number of tourists on Mangareva.

On my trip, there were 5 other passengers.

The trip costs 13,500 CFP (US$122) and includes a full day of touring, visiting all of the islands which are described below, plus a delicious lunch of BBQ fresh fish, salads and other local island specialties.

Our daytrip included an excellent lunch of BBQed fish on Bird Island.

Our daytrip included an excellent lunch of BBQed fish on Bird Island.

In terms of foot wear, I would recommend bringing both flip flops and sturdy walking shoes as activities range from relaxing on stunning beaches, to hiking on some of the islands.

The beautiful beach at Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

The beautiful beach at Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

Snorkeling equipment would also be beneficial as there are many amazing snorkeling spots.  The boat didn’t carry any snorkeling equipment.

The 2-man crew provided commentary in French (of course!) with some basic English.

Highly recommended!

Taravai Island

The first island we visited on our boat trip was Taravai.

Taravai is the second largest of the Gambier Islands. Once home to over 2,000 inhabitants, today, it is home to one family who act as caretakers on the island.

Church of Saint-Gabriel, and the archway with the twin hearts from ‘Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus', Taravai Island.

Church of Saint-Gabriel, and the archway with the twin hearts from ‘Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus’, Taravai Island.

The island boasts a magnificent white sandy beach and a rather strange archway in the remains of an ancient wall.

Above the arch are two red hearts, the emblem of a religious order ‘Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus’.

Church of Saint-Gabriel

A highlight of Taravai Island, the Church of Saint-Gabriel, which was under renovation at the time of my visit.

A highlight of Taravai Island, the Church of Saint-Gabriel, which was under renovation at the time of my visit.

The gothic-style Church of Saint-Gabriel was built in 1868 by Mangarevan islanders, under the direction of the Picpus missionary fathers, the same folks who built all the other churches in the Gambier Islands.

The white washed walls of the church contrast against the lush green scenery of Taravai Island.

The white washed walls of the church contrast against the lush green scenery of Taravai Island.

At the time of my visit, the church was undergoing a very slow restoration and all of the furniture, including the altar, had been removed while the interior walls were being painted.

At the time of my visit in 2024, the Church of Saint-Gabriel was undergoing a slow renovation.

At the time of my visit in 2024, the Church of Saint-Gabriel was undergoing a slow renovation.

The interior of the Church of Saint-Gabriel is truly magnificent with the twin hearts of the religious order ‘Les Sacrés-Coeurs de Picpus’, displayed prominently behind the altar (currently removed due to the renovation).

The interior of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

The interior of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

The Gambier archipelago is the cradle of Catholicism in French Polynesia.

A view of the interior of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

A view of the interior of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

The islands feature more than one hundred stone buildings of the eighteenth and nineteenth century: churches, presbyteries, convents, schools, weaving workshops, bread ovens, lime ovens, and watchtowers.

"Made in Toulouse' - tiles from the roof of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

“Made in Toulouse’ – tiles from the roof of the Church of Saint-Gabriel, Taravai Island.

Mekiro Islet

The second island we visited on our boat trip was tiny Mekiro Islet.

A view of Akamaru Island from Mekiro Islet.

A view of Akamaru Island from Mekiro Islet.

Mekiro is a small, hilly islet right next to Akamaru.

This lonely islet is inhabited by a herd of wild goats who can be observed, scaling the cliff-faces in search of food.

Our boat, from Pension Maro’i, anchored on a beautiful beach at Mekiro Islet with Akamaru Island in the background.

Our boat, from Pension Maro’i, anchored on a beautiful beach at Mekiro Islet with Akamaru Island in the background.

During our day trip of the lagoon with the folks from Pension Maro’i, we spent time at Mekiro Islet where I was able to swim on a beautiful white sand beach.

A lonely beach at Mekiro Islet, with Akamaru Island in the background.

A lonely beach at Mekiro Islet, with Akamaru Island in the background.

If you have sturdy walking shoes (highly recommended for the day trip of the islands), a fabulous view of the lagoon can be seen from the top of Mekiro Islet.

I unfortunately only had my less-than-sturdy flip-flops so I spent my time relaxing on the beautiful beach pictured above.

Akamaru Island

The third island we visited on our boat trip was Akamaru.

Remnants of the former town on sleepy Akamaru Island, now home to 22 inhabitants.

Remnants of the former town on sleepy Akamaru Island, now home to 22 inhabitants.

Akamaru Island is the third largest island in the Gambier Islands.

It is a small, rocky island with an area of approximately 2.6 km2 (1.0 sq mi). The island is located approximately 7 km (4.3 mi) southeast of Mangareva.

A lonely outpost, in a lonely part of the world, Akamaru Island once supported a thriving population but is today home to just 22 souls.

A view of the beach at Akamaru Island with Mekiro Islet in the background.

A view of the beach at Akamaru Island with Mekiro Islet in the background.

Akamaru’s highest point rises to an elevation of 247 m (810 ft).

The first European to arrive was the navigator James Wilson in 1797.

Notre-Dame de la Paix Church

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, <i>Notre-Dame de la Paix church</i>, is an important and historic Catholic church on Akamaru Island.

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame de la Paix church, is an important and historic Catholic church on Akamaru Island.

In 1834, the French missionary Father Honoré Laval (who built St. Michael’s Cathedral on Rikitea) celebrated the first Mass on the island.

The altar at <i>Notre-Dame de la Paix</i> church, Akamaru Island.

The altar at Notre-Dame de la Paix church, Akamaru Island.

The church of Notre-Dame de la Paix (translates as: Our Lady of Peace) was built between 1835 and 1862 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Mother-of-Pearl inlay features in the altar of Notre-Dame de la Paix Church.

Mother-of-Pearl inlay features in the altar of Notre-Dame de la Paix Church.

Notre-Dame de la Paix was another project by the very busy Father Honoré Laval.

The former palace of King Te Ma-puteoa on Akamaru Island was built in exchange for his support of the construction of the nearby Notre-Dame de la Paix church.

The former palace of King Te Ma-puteoa on Akamaru Island was built in exchange for his support of the construction of the nearby Notre-Dame de la Paix church.

The good father gained support for the construction of the church by offering to build a stone palace for King Te Ma-puteoa, which lies a short distance from the church.

The twin, asymmetrical, spires of <i>Notre-Dame de la Paix</i> church, Akamaru Island.

The twin, asymmetrical, spires of Notre-Dame de la Paix church, Akamaru Island.

Constructed from lime-coated coral, its distinctive feature is its two asymmetrical bell towers, which were inspired by the architecture of the French cathedral Notre-Dame de Chartres.

Like other churches in the Pacific region, the ceiling of <i>Notre-Dame de la Paix</i> resembles an upturned boat.

Like other churches in the Pacific region, the ceiling of Notre-Dame de la Paix resembles an upturned boat.

Every year, a pilgrimage takes the Virgin Mary, wearing a necklace of Tahitian pearls, to the cathedral of Saint-Michel de Rikitea at the end of July and brings her back to the church of Akamaru on August 15.

A view of Notre-Dame de la Paix church, on Akamaru Island.

A view of Notre-Dame de la Paix church, on Akamaru Island.

Akamaru Vanilla Farm

Packets of vanilla for sale at Akamaru Vanilla Farm - 50 grams for US$50.

Packets of vanilla for sale at Akamaru Vanilla Farm – 50 grams for US$50.

Tiny Akamaru Island is home to just 22 souls, with several of those involved in the most amazing enterprise – a vanilla farm where the vanilla plants are hand-pollinated.

A real gold mine - the immaculate vanilla plantation at Akamaru Vanilla Farm.

A real gold mine – the immaculate vanilla plantation at Akamaru Vanilla Farm.

Akamaru Vanilla Farm is home to two large greenhouses which are perfectly laid-out and kept perfectly clean and ordered.

A real gold mine - the immaculate vanilla plantation Akamaru Vanilla Farm.

Akamaru Vanilla Farm features two large green houses which are perfectly arranged for the cultivation of vanilla pods.

Vanilla is one of the most expensive spices in the world, with packets of half a dozen pods from Akamaru Vanilla Farm selling for US$50!

This is a veritable gold mine!

Vanilla pods at Akamaru Vanilla Farm, drying in the sun.

Vanilla pods at Akamaru Vanilla Farm, drying in the sun.

I did ask if I could photograph inside the enclosures but that wasn’t allowed since the plants are highly sensitive to any contamination.

Only a small number of staff are allowed inside the greenhouses.

Vanilla pods at Akamaru Vanilla Farm, drying in the sun.

Vanilla pods at Akamaru Vanilla Farm, drying in the sun.

We were however, able to get up close to the pods which had been picked and which were drying in the sun prior to be packaged.

Motu Tauna (Bird Island)

The fourth island we visited on our boat trip was Motu Tauna (Bird Island) which served as our lunch stop.

The stunningly beautiful Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

The stunningly beautiful Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

Motu Tauna (aka Bird Island), and pronounced ‘Ta-oo-nah’, is a small coral atoll which is home to nesting seabirds such as White terns and Brown noddy’s.

White Fairy tern on Bird Island.

White Fairy tern on Bird Island.

Approaching Tauna is like something out of a dream.

A view of Motu Tauna (Bird Island) - paradise found!

A view of Motu Tauna (Bird Island) – paradise found!

Our boat weaved its way around the fringing coral reef, passing through the most incredible shades of clear blue water: teal, turquoise, cobalt.

A true paradise - the stunning beach at Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

A true paradise – the stunning beach at Motu Tauna (Bird Island).

Rising up in the distance was the lush green vegetation of Motu Tauna.

Brown noddy on Bird Island.

Brown noddy on Bird Island.

This was the definition of a paradise isle!  

As we approached the island, we could see flocks of seabirds nesting in the trees.

The beach at Motu Tauna (aka Bird Island).

The beach at Motu Tauna (aka Bird Island).

The island served as our lunch stop and was a great place to snorkel, with one juvenile black-tip reef shark swimming close to shore.

Frigate bird, soaring over Bird Island.

Frigate bird, soaring over Bird Island.

If you enjoy bird photography, the island allows you to get up close to the birds who are nesting in low trees.

Magical!

Aukena Island

The fifth, and last island, we visited on our boat trip was Aukena Island.

Ruins of Re'e Seminary College, the first college of French Polynesia, Aukena Island.

Ruins of Re’e Seminary College, the first college of French Polynesia, Aukena Island.

Located about 5 km southeast of Mangareva, Aukena measures 2.5 km in length and 0.5 km in width with a total area of just 1.35 km².

Aukena has reminders of the missionary period, including a hexagonal lookout tower, still used as a landmark, the former Re’e Seminary College and a huge lime kiln.

About 40 people live on Aukena Island and much of the island’s land (if not all) is privately owned by the Robert Wan pearl company.

As per the company website, the cooler waters which surround Aukena Island result in oysters producing darker shades of green and silver pearls.

Re’e Seminary College

Ruins of Re'e Seminary College, the first college of French Polynesia, Aukena Island.

Ruins of Re’e Seminary College, the first college of French Polynesia, Aukena Island.

Ruins of the Re’e Seminary College on Aukena, one of the earliest institutions of higher learning in French Polynesia, where King Te Ma-puteoa received his education.

Due to the death of his father, Te Ma-puteoa became King at the age of just ten.

His mother Queen Maria Eutokia Toaputeitou assumed the regency, although the French missionary Father Laval had extensive control over the royal mother and son and was considered the true power behind the throne.

During most of his reign, the young king was educated by the French missionaries at the Re’e Seminary College on Aukena Island.

He only left Aukena Island to visit Mangareva on ceremonial occasions. The young King died at the age of 21!

Lime Kiln

An old coral lime oven on Aukena Island.

An old coral lime oven on Aukena Island.

A short walk from the abandoned seminary, hidden deep inside the tropical forest, is a huge lime kiln which was used to burn coral to produce the vast quantities of lime powder which was required for the construction of the many stone buildings which the French missionaries built.

Accommodation

There's no shortage of deluxe accommodation options in French Polynesia, including the Sofitel resort on the island of Moorea.

There’s no shortage of deluxe accommodation options in French Polynesia, including the Sofitel resort on the island of Moorea.

Tahiti

Papeete

A view of the modern and stylish Studio Poe Rava in Papeete, my comfortable apartment during my last visit to Papeete.

A view of the modern and stylish Studio Poe Rava in Papeete, my comfortable apartment during my last visit to Papeete.

Being home to almost 70% of the entire population, there’s no shortage of accommodation options on the main island and in the capital of Papeete.

Options range from the top-end Hilton Hotel Tahiti, where a standard room costs from US$330 per night, to a private apartment which will cost around US$100 per night.

I have yet to find a budget hostel in Papeete.

A view of my bedroom at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

A view of my bedroom at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

On my last visit to Papeete (June 2024), I stayed at the beautiful and comfortable Studio Poe Rava which can be booked online on booking.com

A view of the sitting room at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

A view of the sitting room at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

The apartment costs US$100 per night and includes a washing machine, kitchen, sitting area, WiFi and all the features you’d expect from a modern apartment.

The only quirk with this apartment is that the owner, Dorothée – a wonderfully friendly French lady – excepts payment in the form of cash or bank transfer only.

Dorothée has several apartments for rent in Papeete and can be contacted directly on WhatsApp at: +689 87 77 25 80.

A view of the kitchen, which included a washing machine, at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

A view of the kitchen, which included a washing machine, at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

The apartment is located on the main road which runs along the waterfront, a short walk from downtown Papeete.

It’s totally convenient for exploring all the sights of the city and a short walk from restaurants and cafes.

Highly recommended is La Pizzeria which is located next door and serves delicious wood-fired pizzas and traditional pasta dishes.

The bathroom at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

The bathroom at Studio Poe Rava in Papeete.

Studio Poe Rava is totally convenient for exploring all the sights of the city and a short walk from restaurants and cafes.

Highly recommended is La Pizzeria which is located next door and serves delicious wood-fired pizzas and traditional pasta dishes.

Moorea

Both the Hilton and Sofitel offer 'over-the-water' bungalows at their Moorea resorts.

Both the Hilton and Sofitel offer ‘over-the-water’ bungalows at their Moorea resorts.

While there are more deluxe options on Moorea, I chose to stay at the relaxing and humbler Linareva Moorea Beach Resort which is a seaside lodge located in the remote west coast village of Haapiti.

If staying here, it’s best to have your own transport.

Breakfast at the Linareva Moorea Beach Resort.

Breakfast at the Linareva Moorea Beach Resort.

Room rates are from USD$150 upwards, which is cheap for Moorea.

This doesn’t include breakfast which is available for an extra 1,500 CFP and includes fruit, coffee and a few pastries. A load of washing cost me USD$25.

Just one of several large and friendly Nurse sharks which visited the jetty at Linareva Moorea Beach Resort each evening.

Just one of several large and friendly Nurse sharks which visited the jetty at Linareva Moorea Beach Resort each evening.

The owner of the resort, Roland, use to run the dive shop up the road and, over the years, has trained the local sharks to come to his wooden jetty (a little food doesn’t hurt).

Each evening, (large) Lemon, (numerous) Black-tip and several (huge) Nurse sharks appear from the murky depths.

All are very friendly and don’t mind you swimming around them.

A great snorkeling experience!

My bungalow at Hotel Hibiscus on Moorea.

My bungalow at Hotel Hibiscus on Moorea.

Also on Moorea, I stayed at the Hotel Hibiscus which offers spacious bungalows arranged around a well-maintained garden (by the seaside) from USD$150.

The bungalows include a kitchenette which allow some self-catering and nearby restaurants offer free shuttle services for those wishing to dine.

Mangareva

The view of my very basic homestay on Mangareva.

The view of my very basic homestay on Mangareva.

While there are no hotels on Mangareva, several families rent out rooms in their homes.

These guesthouses can be found, and booked online, on Airbnb (click to view all guest houses), where the cost of a room averages around US$100 per night.

There are about 7 guesthouses listed on Airbnb! 

I stayed in a very basic guesthouse which provided no meals – a real problem on an island without restaurants or cafes.

Recommendation: The best accommodation option on Mangareva is Pension Maro’i who do offer breakfast and dinner options and also operate a fantastic lagoon day trip each Thursday. Do not stay anywhere else on Mangareva!


Tip:

Since there are no banks or ATMs on Mangareva, and you need to carry enough cash from Papeete to cover your stay, it’s best to book and pay online in advance for your accommodation on Airbnb.

The advantage of booking online with Airbnb is that your biggest expense (accommodation) has been paid for – very important in a place where you have no access to cash!

You only need to ensure you carry enough CFP (Pacific Francs) to cover meals and other incidental costs – such as black pearls!


Eating Out

Tahiti

The budget-friendly meals served by the various Roulottes in Papeete each evening is the most popular dining experience in town.

The budget-friendly meals served by the various Roulottes in Papeete each evening is the most popular dining experience in town.

Papeete is well endowed with cafes, bars and restaurants, offering plenty of opportunities to sample local and French cuisine.

Tuna Tartare and French Fries, served up at a waterfront <i>Roulotte</i> in Papeete.

Tuna Tartare and French Fries, served up at a waterfront Roulotte in Papeete.

By far the most popular place for dinner is at Place Vaiete Roulottes, which is the public square in front of the Gare Maritime (ferry terminal).

The Roulottes offer a choice of different cuisines from local, International, Chinese and Thai.

The Roulottes offer a choice of different cuisines from local, International, Chinese and Thai.

Each evening, the country’s famous roulottes (mobile food vans) set up their plastic stools and tables, fire up their BBQ and grills and serve up a veritable feast of cultural and gastronomic delights – all under the starry, night sky.


Update (July 2024):

During my recent visit to Papeete, it was disappointing to see that most of the roulottes had closed for business. 

This was due to an ongoing dispute with the city council who have decided to increase the taxes on these once-successful businesses. 

Hopefully this dispute will be settled at some stage and the iconic roulottes will once again return.


Hinano Beer

Hinano Beer has a wonderfully, light, delicate flavour.

Hinano Beer has a wonderfully, light, delicate flavour.

Brewed by La Brasserie de Tahiti (owned by Heineken), the local beer is the perfect match for any meal served at the roulottes.

The beer is brewed longer than most, giving it a more delicate, distinct flavour.

The very quaffable - Hinano Beer - the beer of Tahiti.

The very quaffable – Hinano Beer – the beer of Tahiti.

It is possibly my number one favourite beer in the Pacific region and certainly very quaffable.

Moorea

The best 'mille-feuille' on Moorea is served at Café Caraméline.

The best ‘mille-feuille’ on Moorea is served at Café Caraméline.

Where will you find the best millefeuille on Moorea?

Café Caraméline of course!

Located in a small shopping centre in the village of Maharepa, the always busy, Caraméline is renowned for its all-day American, French or Tahitian breakfasts and lunch menu which features burgers, pizzas, salads and fresh seafood.

The fine French pastries are the speciality of the house and are the perfect accompaniment to one of their freshly brewed coffees.

A roadside food stall on Moorea.

A roadside food stall on Moorea.

Driving further west along the north coast from Maharepa, you’ll eventually enter the sleepy village of Papeotai.
If it’s lunchtime, you’ll notice a long line of cars parked along the side of the road on the lagoon side.
This is the legendary and very worthwhile – Snack Mahana.
Open for lunch (and not accepting any credit cards) the restaurant is run by an industrious family who cook up a storm in their kitchen and provide seating in their breezy backyard which happens to look out over the spectacular lagoon.
The menu features the freshest seafood, including tuna sashimi and grilled mahi-mahi, burgers, steaks and more.
Continuing further west at Tiahura Beach, you’ll find the impeccable Restaurant Tiahura (Chez Irene), which offers a nightly dinner menu featuring the freshest of local seafood.
If you do not have your own transport, they offer a free shuttle service to/ from your hotel.
This is a local institution and is very cosy so reservations are essential.
Like so many other businesses on Moorea, payment is cash only.

Mangareva

Delicious Tuna Tataki, served at the snack shop, opposite the Gendarmerie office on Mangareva.

Delicious Tuna Tataki, served at the snack shop, opposite the Gendarmerie office on Mangareva.

There is no dining-out scene on tiny Mangareva!

Locals either eat at home or grab takeaway meals at one of the two snack shops.

The two snack shops, which are open until around 1 pm most days, provide breakfast and lunch and can provide a take-away evening meal if required.

Of the two snack shops, Snack Jojo is the best, offering a good selection of food and the only espresso coffee on the island.

The other snack shop is located opposite the Gendarmerie office.


Note: 

There are no options for food during most evenings on Mangareva.

If you wish to eat something in the evening, you will need to buy a takeaway meal from one of the snack shops before they close at 1pm.  


Pension Maro’i

The one accommodation which does provide meals on sleepy Mangareva is Pension Maro’i which is located on the other side of the island, a short drive over the hill from Rikitea.

Visa Requirements

While French Polynesia is an overseas collectivity of France, it is not part of the Schengen Area and as such applies its own visa policy (which largely mirrors the Schengen Area policy).

Generally, EU citizens are free to enter and reside indefinitely while many other passport holders are granted a 3-month stay.

To check your requirements, you should check the Visa Policies of Overseas France

Immigration

Immigration in the French territories is the breeziest of anywhere in the Pacific. No questions asked, no need to show a return ticket, nothing! Most visitors are processed in a matter of seconds – the way travel should be!

Getting There

French Bee have finally made flights to French Polynesia affordable.

French Bee have finally made flights to French Polynesia affordable.

Air

International flights to French Polynesia arrive at Faa’a International Airport (IATA: PPT), which is located in the municipality of Faa’a, 5 km (3.1 miles) southwest of the capital, Papeete.

The airport serves as the base for the domestic carrier, Air Tahiti, and the international carrier, Air Tahiti Nui.

Flights to French Polynesia are never cheap but, thanks to the recent introduction of thrice weekly (Sunday, Wednesday and Friday) flights from Paris (Orly) to Papeete via San Francisco by the excellent French low-cost carrier, French Bee, reaching paradise is now much more affordable.


Important Note: 

French Bee flights from Paris to Papeete make a short transit stop in San Francisco.

Although transit passengers do not alight the aircraft, all passengers are required to have valid entry documents for the United States.

This exceptional requirement by the US government is due to the fact that airports in the United States do not have ‘sterile’ transit areas. 

If you do not hold a valid ESTA or a valid US Visa, you will be denied boarding in Paris. 


One-way fares from San Francisco start at US$375, which has forced other airlines flying from San Francisco and Los Angeles to drastically reduce their tickets prices in order to compete – a boon for travelers.

Despite being a low-cost carrier, French Bee are a slick operation which feels more like a full-service carrier, providing a comfortable seat on a brand-new Airbus A-350 with excellent service, tasty meals and a professional crew.

The following airlines provide connections to/ from Papeete:

Airport Transport

Taxis to downtown Papeete cost approximately 1,900 CFP (USD$19) while bus #3 and #7 pass by the airport, stopping at the stop on the main road, before continuing to Papeete.

Onward Air Travel

New Caledonia

The <i>Blue Hole of Voh</i>, a highlight of New Caledonia.

The Blue Hole of Voh, a highlight of New Caledonia.

The national carrier of New Caledonia, Aircalin, connects Papeete with Noumea every Friday and Monday, providing a useful (and sometimes affordable) connection between two far-flung French Pacific territories.

I paid just €350 for a one-way ticket between the two territories, a flight of 4,717 km (2,931 mi).

You can read more about this other Pacific French territory in my New Caledonia Travel Guide.

Sea

French Polynesia Travel Guide: The 'Paul Gauguin' cruise ship in Papeete harbour.

The ‘Paul Gauguin’ cruise ship in Papeete harbour.

Tahiti and Moorea are popular ports of call for visiting Cruise ships with ships visiting the islands several times a month.

You can view the current schedule here.

Getting Around

Air

French Polynesia Travel Guide: The Air Tahiti Route Map, superimposed on a map of Europe, illustrates the vastness of the territory.

The Air Tahiti Route Map, superimposed on a map of Europe, illustrates the vastness of the territory.

Tahiti

French Polynesia covers a vast area of the Pacific – 4,167 sq km (1,609 sq mi) to be exact.

Domestic flights throughout this sprawling territory are operated by Air Tahiti, who operate from their base at Faa’a International Airport in Papeete.

The route map of Air Tahiti (shown above) is super-imposed on a map of Europe to show the vast extent of the territory.

Due to it being a monopoly operator, airfares on Air Tahiti are never cheap. 

Air Tahiti offers services from Faa’a International airport to:

  • Ahe
  • Anaa
  • Arutua
  • Atuona
  • Bora Bora
  • Fakarava
  • Hao
  • Huahine–Fare
  • Kaukura
  • Makemo
  • Manihi
  • Mataiva
  • Maupiti
  • Moorea
  • Niau
  • Nuku Hiva
  • Papeete (hub)
  • Raiatea
  • Raivavae
  • Rangiroa
  • Rarotonga (Cook Islands)
  • Rimatara
  • Rurutu
  • Takaroa
  • Tatakoto
  • Tikehau
  • Totegegie (Mangareva)
  • Tubuai–Mataura

Mangareva

My Air Tahiti flight at Mangareva.

My Air Tahiti flight at Mangareva.

Air Tahiti connect Mangareva to Papeete twice a week – on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Flights land at Totegegie Airport (IATA: GMR) which is an uninhabited coral atoll, 9 km across the lagoon from Mangareva.

The municipal ferry which connects airport to Mangareva.

The municipal ferry which connects airport to Mangareva.

A municipal ferry, which meets all flights, provides the only transport service between the airport and Mangareva, with a ticket costing 1,000 CFP.

The ferry journey time to Mangareva is 40 minutes.


Pitcairn Island

The MV Silver Supporter is a dedicated passenger and cargo supply ship chartered by the Pitcairn Island government.

The MV Silver Supporter is a dedicated passenger and cargo supply ship chartered by the Pitcairn Island government.

Mangareva is an important travel link to Pitcairn Island and many visitors to this remote corner to French Polynesia are heading to the even remoter Pitcairn Island.

Pitcairn Island lies 540 km (335 mi) south-east of Mangareva, a sea voyage of 35-hours on board the MV Silver Supporter, the supply ship for Pitcairn Island.

The supply ship operates its schedule to coincide with the Air Tahiti Tuesday flight from Papeete.

The ship departs Mangareva each Tuesday afternoon, and returns the following Monday evening so that passengers can board the Tuesday flight back to Papeete.

The MV Silver Supporter is the dedicated supply and passenger ship for Pitcairn Islands.

The MV Silver Supporter is the dedicated supply and passenger ship for Pitcairn Islands.

There is a one-hour time difference between the Gambier Islands (UTC-9) and Pitcairn Island (UTC -8).

For those boarding the MV Silver Supporter, the crew will be waiting for you at the dock in Rikitea when you alight from the ferry.

You must first visit the Gendarmerie office in Rikitea where you’ll receive a French Polynesia exit stamp in your passport.

The Gendarmerie office is a 200-metre walk along the main road (turn left) when you exit the port.

Like everything in the French world, the office is closed for lunch from 12 noon until 2 pm. 

Once all passports have been processed, all passengers will be transferred to the MV Silver Supporter, which is always moored offshore in the lagoon.

Upon arrival back at Mangareva, all passengers must again attend the Gendarmerie office to receive an entry stamp back into French Polynesia.

You can read all about Pitcairn Island in my Pitcairn Islands Travel Guide.


Public Transport

Public buses provide services from Papeete to points around the main island with bus #3 and #7 passing the airport.

Taxi

Tahiti

There’s no shortage of taxis in and around Papeete during business hours, but after-hours it’s best to book a taxi through your hotel. Meters are unheard of, so it’s best to confirm the fare (in French, if possible) before getting into a taxi. Current taxi tariffs are published here.

Papeete is very small and easily covered on foot so there’s no need to take a taxi anywhere downtown, however to the airport, the fare is about 1,900 CFP (USD$19).

Moorea

There are very few taxi services on Moorea. One operator who has a published schedule of fares is Jo Faua of Moorea Jo Tours.

Mangareva

There are no taxis on Mangareva but guest houses will collect visitors from the port.

Rental Car

License plate from my rental car on Moorea.

License plate from my rental car on Moorea.

Tahiti

My rental car on Tahiti.

My rental car on Tahiti.

Cars on the main island can be rented from downtown offices in Papeete or from the airport. I comfortably circumnavigated the main island in 2 days (stopping at all sights) using a rental car.

Note: When renting in French Polynesia, you should check the fine print as some companies (Hertz) have very low daily kilometre limits with a high charge for excess kilometres. I booked a car through Rentalcars.com and was informed upon collecting the car that I had a limit of 45 km per day. I changed this to ‘Unlimited kilometres’ which tripled the cost of the rental! Ouch!

The following rental agents maintain and office at Faa’a International Airport:

Moorea

Exploring the beautiful landscapes of Moorea in my rental car.

Exploring the beautiful landscapes of Moorea in my rental car.

There are very few rental car agents on Moorea and, as can be expected in such a closed market, rates are not cheap with an economy-size car costing from 10,900 CFP (USD$100) per day.

Both Avis and Europcar have branches conveniently located opposite the wharf in Vai’are but vehicles are limited so best to book in advance. Avis also have branches at Moorea airport and the Intercontinental resort which have limited operating hours.

On the northwest coast, a few companies rent out roadsters with a 4-hour rental from Moorea Fun Roadsters costing an eye-watering 15,000 CFP (US$150).

Mangareva

Exploring Mangareva in my rental car which i hired from my guest house.

Exploring Mangareva in my rental car which i hired from my guest house.

The road around Mangareva runs along most of the coast, covering a distance of 28 kilometres (17 mi).

Most of the road is concrete, with a few unsealed, but completely passable, sections at the far eastern end of the island.

Rental cars can be hired through some of the guest houses on Mangareva for €50 per day, which includes the small amount of fuel which is needed to circumnavigate the island.

A one day rental is more than enough time to explore tiny Mangareva.

A one day rental is more than enough time to explore tiny Mangareva.

I rented my Dacia Duster rental car through my guest house.

A one-day rental is more than enough time to cover the sights on the island.

Ferry

The Aremiti car ferry at the 'Gare Maritime' in Papeete.

The Aremiti car ferry at the ‘Gare Maritime’ in Papeete.

Papeete to Moorea

The Aremiti ferry company has regular sailings from the ‘Gare Maritime‘ (ferry terminal) in Papeete to Moorea (1,500 CFP one way), a distance of 17 km with a crossing time of 40 minutes.

Ferry boat ready to depart Moorea.

Ferry boat ready to depart Moorea.

You can book tickets online and view the current sailing schedule here.


That’s the end of my French Polynesia Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Following is a list of other travel guides from the Pacific Ocean region:

French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide French Polynesia Travel Guide 

Saint Martin Travel Guide

Caribbean Travel Quiz: Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Saint Martin Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Martin Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

At just 87-square kilometres, Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten has the distinction of being the world’s smallest inhabited island, which is divided between two nations – France (Saint Martin) and The Kingdom of the Netherlands (Sint Maarten). The division dates to 1648, with the island being divided roughly 60/40 between France and the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

While there is a border on the island, there are no border controls. People and goods are able to move freely between the two sides. The island is a duty-free zone and as such, is a major trading and commercial centre for the region.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.

Dutch Sint Maarten is one of the four constituent countries that form the Kingdom of the Netherlands – the others being Aruba, Curaçao and the Netherlands.

French Saint Martin is one of five overseas collectivities of France. The others being (click the links to view my Travel Guides) French PolynesiaSaint Barthélemy, Saint Pierre and Miquelon and Wallis and Futuna Islands.

Location

Saint Martin is located 15-km south of the British territory of Anguilla, 24-km northwest of Saint Barts and 51-km and 62-km north of the Dutch municipalities of Saba and Statia respectively. 

Due to its central location and well developed infrastructure, the island is a key regional transportation hub, offering frequent sea and air connections to neighbouring islands.

History

Like all the islands in the region, the first inhabitants of St. Martin were native Arawak Indians who arrived from present day Venezuela. They called the island ‘Sualouiga‘ or ‘Land of Salt‘ due to the numerous salt ponds scattered around the island. The Arawak’s were eventually replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

The first European to sight the island was Christopher Columbus during his second voyage to the Americas in 1493. He named the island Isla de San Martín after Saint Martin of Tours because it was November 11 – St. Martin Day. Columbus claimed it as a Spanish territory although he never actually landed on the island. Spain made the settlement of the island a low priority.

However, both the Dutch and French coveted the island and in 1631 the Dutch founded a settlement and erected Fort Amsterdam. At this time the Dutch East India Company began salt mining operations on the island. In the pre-refrigeration age, the Dutch required salt in large quantities to preserve meat and fish.

A colourful and funky 'Welcome' sign on the Dutch side of the island.

A colourful and funky ‘Welcome’ sign on the Dutch side of the island.

At this time British and French settlements also developed on the island. All this changed in 1633 when the Spaniards, who were determined to maintain a tight control over the salt trade, invaded the island. Attempts by the French and Dutch to protect their settlements were futile, so they retreated, returning only after Spanish troops vacated the island in 1648.

On the 23rd of March 1648, the French and Dutch signed the Treaty of Concordia, agreeing to partition the island and co-exist together in a co-operative manner. Despite the signing of the treaty, both sides continuously jostled for more control of the island. This continued until 1817 when eventually the Treaty of Concordia was enforced, at which point the border that exists today was agreed upon.

In addition to salt mining, the French and Dutch developed sugar plantations, employing African slave labour. Once slavery was abolished, the sugar plantations went into decline with the island now dependent on it’s salt mines. At the height of the industry (1850), more then 330,000 barrels were produced and a third of the island’s population was employed in the industry.

Salt mining eventually declined and most inhabitants left the island to build a life elsewhere. At one point there were just 2000 people living on the island.

The islands’ fortune changed during the second world war when the US Air Force built a base on St. Martin (at present day Princess Juliana International Airport). This provided a gateway to the rest of the world and would allow the island to develop tourism – an industry that is today the mainstay of the economy.

A much more subdued (boring!) 'Welcome' sign on the French side of the border.

A much more subdued (boring!) ‘Welcome’ sign on the French side of the border.

The island’s duty-free status and white sandy beaches proved popular with tourists, resulting in a period of economic growth, fuelled by commercialism and development.

Today the much busier Dutch side of the island has a more American feel to it. Here you will find large resorts, shopping malls, casinos, cinema complexes, fast food restaurants and lots of duty free shops.

The quieter French side of the island, with it’s more relaxed, quaint towns, fine dining gourmet restaurants and hedonistic nudist beaches has a more distinctly European feel too it.

This mix adds something special to the island, offering visitors two very different travel experiences in one compact destination.

Currency

The Antilles Guilder is the official currency in the Dutch-controlled Sint Maarten.

The Antilles Guilder is the official currency in the Dutch-controlled Sint Maarten.

The two official currencies on St. Martin are the Euro on the French side and the Florin (Netherlands Antillean guilder or florin) on the Dutch side. To make life easier for the tourist hordes, US dollars are also accepted across the island. 

The Antillean guilder is the currency of Curaçao and Sint Maarten, which until 2010 formed the Netherlands Antilles along with Bonaire, Saba, and Sint Eustatius. The guilder was replaced by the United States dollar on 1 January 2011 on Bonaire, Saba and Sint Eustatius.

The Euro is the official currency in French St. Martin.

The Euro is the official currency in French St. Martin.

Flags

The flag of Sint Maarten.

The flag of Sint Maarten.

As with everything on this divided island, there is a Dutch flag for Sint Maarten and a French flag for St. Martin.

Sint Maarten

On August 19, 1983 the government of Sint Maarten issued a notice in which residents were invited to submit a design for a new flag. The design of 17 year old, Roselle Richardson, was chosen.

Very similar to the flag of the Philippines, the design features a horizontal bicolour of red and blue with the coat of arms of Sint Maarten on a white chevron, thus incorporating the colours of the Dutch flag. The red symbolises solidarity and courage, the blue peace and assurance of pardon, and the white purity and faith.

Set in the centre of the white chevron is the coat of arms of Sint Maarten which features a shield with a rising sun and the motto “Semper Pro Grediens” (English: always progressing).

Saint Martin

Flag of France

Flag of France

As an overseas collectivity of France, St Martin flies the French tricolour.

Sightseeing

Around Saint Martin

Marigot

With its streets lined with Belle Époque style lamp posts, fine cafés, pâtisseries, boulangeries and a produce market, Marigot has a very European feel to it. This charming waterfront town is the main town and capital on the French side of the island.

Apart from a hillside fort, there is not much to see but it is a pleasant place to spend some time wandering around.

The Anguilla ferry departs from the town dock (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

Grand Case

The beach at Grand Case, one of several excellent beaches on the French side of St Martin.

The beach at Grand Case, one of several excellent beaches on the French side of St Martin.

The small beach-side town of Grand Case has been dubbed the ‘Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean’. The town’s Creole architecture evokes the feel of other French colonial New World towns such as New Orleans. Each evening, the fine-dining restaurants along the beachfront road place their menus and specials out front. Would-be diners stroll along the strip until they find a place that strikes their fancy. You should ensure that you eat at least one meal here during your stay – you will not be disappointed.

While dining is the premier attraction, there’s also a decent sandy beach, which is an ideal place to swim and watch the sunset. The town offers several affordable places to stay – mainly small guest houses and inns.

Orient Bay Beach

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin - Orient Bay Beach.

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin – Orient Bay Beach.

Orient Beach is the most developed, most popular and the busiest beach on the island and is especially known for its ‘swimsuit optional’ section. There’s also a naturist resort located at the southern end of the beach. The beach is the only one on the island with a large number of beach bars and restaurants.

Bay Rouge

The red sand of Bay Rouge, St. Martin.

The red sand of Bay Rouge, St. Martin.

Located west of Marigot, quiet Bay Rouge (also spelled Baie Rouge) is the perfect place to escape the crowds and spend a relaxing afternoon. There is a beach bar and restaurant available for fuelling.

Around Sint Maarten

Philipsburg

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

With a population of 1,327 inhabitants, Philipsburg is the largest town and capital of Dutch Sint Maarten. It is the main commercial centre on the island and the place where visiting cruise ships dock. The large cruise ship facility can cater for several enormous cruise ships at any one time, disgorging their passengers who head straight to Front street to enjoy duty-free shopping.

The town is located on a wide sandy bay and is characterised by its many shops catering to cruise ship passengers. There are a number of bars and restaurants along the waterfront.

Philipsburg beach, the centre of action in downtown Philipsburg.

Philipsburg beach, the centre of action in downtown Philipsburg.

Maho Beach

Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide: Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Welcome to plane-spotting heaven and jet-blast central. 

Maho Beach is a small stretch of white beach which is famous for its position at the end of the runway of Princess Juliana International Airport. Planes have a low approach to the runway, passing just over the heads of beach-goers. The best time to see the big planes land and take off is between 13:30 and 17:00.

At the end of the beach is the Sunset Bar and Grill, which offers a prime viewing spot. Flight arrivals are posted on a board outside the restaurant.

Maho beach is heaven for plain-spotters and attracts enthusiasts from around the world who gather on the beach to photograph the huge planes approaching to land just over the heads of relaxing holiday makers.

When the larger planes take-off, you can expect to receive a good amount of jet-blast. If your car is stuck on the road directly behind the runway (as does happen as drivers stop to watch the planes land and take off) you can expect to receive a beach full of sand in your car. Best to wind up the windows.

Oyster Pond

Located on the border between the French and Dutch side of the island is tiny Oyster Pond. There is no beach here but rather a picturesque harbour that includes a marina and several restaurants and bars.

The St. Barts ferry departs from here (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

Accommodation

There is ample accommodation options on both sides of the island for all budgets. Due to its compact size, everything is a short drive so it doesn’t matter where you base yourself.

I stayed at Princess Heights Luxury Condo Hotel, which is located on a hill overlooking Oyster Pond and Dawn beach. The views from the hotel are spectacular.

I also stayed on the beach at beautiful Simpson Bay at the Atrium Beach Resort & Spa.

There are numerous options available on booking.com

Eating Out

There is no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bars on the island. Restaurants on the Dutch side cater more to visiting American tourists while those on the French side offer a finer European style dining experience.

A highlight is dinner on the beach-front street in Grand Case.

Visa Requirements

There is no physical border between the French and Dutch territories – people and goods may travel freely between the two sides of the island.

Some nationalities require visas for Sint Maarten – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Some nationalities require visas for Saint Martin – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

St. Martin is a major transport hub for this part of the Caribbean. The island provides frequent sea and air connections to neighbouring islands.

By Air

On final approach to St. Martin with Winair - passing over Maho beach.

On final approach to St. Martin with Winair – passing over Maho beach.

There are two airports on the island, Princess Juliana International Airport  located on the Dutch side and L’Espérance Airport  located on the French side.

The main airport is Princess Juliana International Airport (also known as Saint Maarten International Airport), named after Juliana of the Netherlands, who, as Crown Princess, landed here in 1944 – the year after the airport opened. The airport serves as the base for Winair. Almost all international flights arrive and depart from here. The airport is one of the biggest and busiest in the Caribbean and is best known for its very low-altitude flyover landing approach due to one end of its runway being adjacent to the shoreline of Maho Beach.

The second and much smaller airport is L’Espérance Airport, also known as Grand Case Airport, located on the French side of the island. The airport is used only for smaller aircraft for regional flights to other French islands.

Princess Juliana International Airport

The following airlines provide international connections to Princess Juliana International Airport:

  • Air Antilles Express (operated by Winair) – services to Dominica, Guadeloupe, Puerto Rico
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Paris (Orly), Haiti (Port-au-Prince), Guadeloupe (seasonal)
  • Air France – services to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)
  • Air Transat – services to Montréal (Trudeau), Toronto (Pearson)
  • American Airlines – services to Charlotte, Miami, Philadelphia, New York (JFK)
  • BVI Airways – services to British Virgin Islands (Tortola)
  • Caribbean Airlines – services to Jamaica (Kingston), Trinidad
  • Copa Airlines – services to Panama City
  • Delta Air Lines – services to Atlanta, New York (JFK), Minneapolis/St. Paul (seasonal)
  • Fly All Ways – services to Paramaribo
  • Insel Air – services to Curaçao, Haiti (Port-au-Prince), Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo)
  • Insel Air Aruba – services to Aruba, Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo)
  • JetBlue Airways – services to Boston, New York (JFK)
  • KLM – services to Amsterdam
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, British Virgin Islands (Tortola), Puerto Rico, Saint Kitts, Saint Lucia, US Virgin Islands (Saint Croix & Saint Thomas)
  • PAWA Dominicana – Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo), Antigua
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Spirit Airlines – services to Fort Lauderdale
  • Sunwing Airlines – services to Montréal (Trudeau), Toronto (Pearson), Québec City (seasonal)
  • TUI Airlines Netherlands – services to Amsterdam
  • United Airlines – services to Newark, Washington (Dulles), Chicago (O’Hare) (seasonal)
  • WestJet – services to Toronto (Pearson), Montréal (seasonal)
  • Winair – services to Antigua, British Virgin Islands (Tortola), Dominica, Nevis, Saba, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint Kitts, Sint Eustatius.

L’Espérance Airport

The following airlines provide international connections to L’Espérance Airport:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Guadeloupe
  • St Barth Commuter – services to Saint Barts

By Sea

The 'Ovation of the Seas' cruise ship, docked offshore at Philipsburg.

The ‘Ovation of the Seas’ cruise ship, docked offshore at Philipsburg.

Cruise ships visiting the island dock at the large (offshore) Dr. A. C. Wathey Cruise & Cargo Facility in Philipsburg. Passengers are transferred to the island aboard tender boats.

Inter-Island Ferries

Due to its central location, St. Martin is a hub for ferry services to Anguilla, St. Barts and Saba.

Anguilla

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

The most popular way to reach Anguilla is via the frequent ferry service which connects Marigot (Saint Martin) with Blowing Point (Anguilla). The service runs every 45 minutes – with the crossing taking 25-minutes. You need to clear customs and immigration at both docks. Currently, schedules and fares are posted on the Anguilla Tourist Board website.

Charter services can also be booked from Blowing Point to Princess Juliana Airport (Dutch St. Maarten)

St. Barts

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

There are daily fast ferry connections between Saint Martin and Saint Barts – operated by the Voyager ferry company. Services run between Gustavia (Saint Barts) and Marigot (Saint Martin), and between Gustavia and Oyster Pond (Saint Martin). From Marigot, the journey is 90-minutes; from Oyster Pond, the ride is 30-minutes.

I travelled to St. Barts from Oyster Pond with Voyager. It’s a fast, reliable and comfortable journey across the Saint Barthélemy Channel.

From Philipsburg (Sint Maarten), Great Bay Express offers a daily fast ferry service (40-min) to Gustavia. Check their website for schedule and fares.

Saba

A ferry service connects Saba with Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin three times a week. The 45-km journey takes one and a half hours. The service is operated by Saba Transport using the vessel Dawn II.

Check their website for current schedules and fares.

Getting Around

As with everything else on St. Martin, there are lots of options when it comes to ‘getting around’.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike Anglo-Caribbean islands, drivers are not required to pay for a temporary driving permit. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, with the roads being in very good condition. St. Martin’s road system essentially comprises a ring road that skirts the island’s coastline and smaller roads linking the built-up areas.

Shared minibuses cover most areas of the island. There is no fixed time table however there are dedicated bus stops.

Taxis are also available for hire but do not have meters, instead charging according to a tariff schedule.

 


That’s the end of my Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave feedback/ comments, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide