Tag - Montserrat

Montserrat Photo Gallery

A sweeping view of the west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

Montserrat Photo Gallery

This is a Montserrat Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Montserrat Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Top 10 Caribbean Island Experiences

Top 10 Caribbean Island Experiences

Welcome to the taste2travel Top 10 Caribbean Experiences feature.

 

Introduction

It’s not all rum and reggae!

Beyond the tourist brochure images of white-sand beaches, palm trees, Bob Marley and rum punches, the 33 countries and territories of the Caribbean offer a wealth of diverse travel experiences.

During the colonial period the French, Spanish, Dutch, British and even the Danish and Swedish took possession of various islands, which has left its mark today. As a result of this Colonial mélange, the islands of the Caribbean offer a diversity of cultures, traditions and ethnic mixes. The cultural highlight on the Irish-settled island of Montserrat is a week-long St. Patrick’s Day Festival, which celebrates the Irish heritage of the island with a combination of Irish and African influences.

Geographically, the islands of the Caribbean have been formed by either volcanic activity or from the movement of tectonic plates, which has exposed ancient, limestone seabed’s. While the volcanic islands offer lush, rugged, mountainous interiors, cascading waterfalls, meandering rivers and black-sand beaches, the limestone islands offer flatter, arid interiors and blindingly white-sand beaches, it’s these beaches which are featured on the covers of tourist brochures.

The French territory of Guadeloupe consists of two (almost joined) islands, one being volcanic in origin and the other being a raised limestone seabed, offering its visitors the opportunity to explore two very different environments in one destination.

This list highlights just ten favourite travel experiences from Cuba to Trinidad, with links to relevant travel guides for further reading.

Experiences

My personal “Top 10 Caribbean Experiences” (listed in no particular order) are:

#1 – Montserrat

A view of the east coast of Montserrat with recent lava flows visible in the background.

A view of the east coast of Montserrat with recent lava flows visible in the background.

Feel like visiting a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii? The volcanic island of Montserrat offers a very different travel experience from the usual sun, sand and beaches.

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, tiny Montserrat (a British territory) is slowly dusting itself off after recent volcanic eruptions decimated the southern part of the island, including the capital Plymouth, covering large areas in ash, mud and other volcanic debris. Plymouth remains the capital of Montserrat, making it the only ghost town that serves as the capital of a political territory.

A sweeping view of the lush west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

A sweeping view of the lush west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

Volcano Tourism

While the Soufrière Hills Volcano is far from dormant, Montserrat is open for tourism and visitors are once again returning to the island that, due to its rich Irish heritage, bills itself as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean‘.

The buried capital of Plymouth, a modern day Caribbean Pompeii.

The buried capital of Plymouth, a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii.

Whilst the island has a few nice (black sand) beaches, the main draw today is ‘volcano tourism‘, with a highlight of any visit being a tour of the fascinating, abandoned capital of Plymouth, which lies entombed under many metres of volcanic debris, inside a restricted exclusion zone.

Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with metres of ash, mud and rock covering the entire city.with ash, mud and huge rocks.

Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with metres of ash, mud and rock covering the entire city.

I toured the exclusion zone with the knowledgeable and informative Sun Lea, the owner of Montserrat Island Tours. Tours can remain in the abandoned city for one hour and during that time the guide is required to maintain constant radio contact with monitoring staff at the nearby Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

Another requirement was that, even while walking about, the motor of our vehicle was always to be left running in case the MVO advised that we need to leave the area ASAP. Something very different form the usual Caribbean experience.

Who needs a white-sand beach? Beautiful Woodlands Bay Beach.

Who needs a white-sand beach? Beautiful Woodlands Bay Beach.

Musical Legacy

A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.

A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.

If you’re a fan of music (who isn’t?) you might be interested in the musical legacy of Montserrat. For a period of ten years from 1979 – 1989, the island was a magnet for many famous musicians who came to record at the legendary AIR Studios Montserrat, which was created by Sir George Martin – the renown English record producer who signed The Beatles and produced every album they made until they disbanded.

Did you know Dire Straits recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ on tiny Montserrat? Who else recorded music on Montserrat? It’s an impressive roll-call of famous musicians, including:

  • Boy George
  • Dire Straits (who recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ at the studio)
  • Duran Duran
  • Elton John (who recorded ‘Too Low for Zero‘ at the studio)
  • Eric Clapton
  • Genesis 
  • Jimmy Buffet (who recorded the album ‘Volcano‘ while looking at the then-dormant Soufrière Hills Volcano from the studio)
  • Little River Band
  • Lou Reed
  • Luther Vandross
  • Michael Jackson
  • Paul McCartney (who recorded the hit single ‘Ebony and Ivory‘ with Stevie Wonder at the studio)
  • Sheena Easton
  • Stevie Wonder
  • The Police (who recorded ‘Ghost in the Machine‘ and ‘Synchronicity‘ at the studio)
  • The Rolling Stones 
  • Ultravox

While it’s possible to visit the island on a quick day trip from neighbouring Antigua, it’s definitely worth spending a few days or more.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Montserrat Travel Guide.

#2 – Cayman Islands

Adult Brown Booby, Cayman Brac

Adult Brown Booby, Cayman Brac

The Cayman islands are all about three things: sun, sea and wealth. A British Crown Colony whose economy is based on tourism and offshore banking, the three, raised limestone islands which comprise the territory are exposed summits of the Cayman Ridge. Separating the islands is the 4.8 km (3 mi) deep Cayman Trench – which is home to the deepest point in the Caribbean sea and many incredible dive sites.

The capital and largest city, George Town, is located on the main island of Grand Cayman, which is the port of call for all cruise ships and the destination of choice for 95% of visitors. Two much smaller (and geographically very different) islands, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, lie a short flight to the east and should not be overlooked.

On approach to Cayman Brac.

On approach to Cayman Brac.

One of the highlights of a visit to Grand Cayman is Stingray City which provides tourists with the opportunity to interact with numerous Atlantic Southern stingrays, who cruise around on a shallow sandbar in the middle of the turquoise-blue waters of the Caribbean sea. This is a definite tourist trap but still a worthwhile experience.

Getting friendly with a local at Stingray city.

The two outer islands are much quieter, with Cayman Brac being a favourite nesting site for sea birds such as the Brown Booby.

The Cayman Trench passes close to the island, providing amazing scuba diving which can be arranged through Reef Divers, who operate out of the Cayman Brac Beach Resort and offer full-service ‘valet‘ diving.

What exactly is ‘valet‘ diving? Prior to entering the water, you sit yourself down on a bench at the back of the dive boat and relax while the crew fit you with all your equipment. Once done, you stand, step forward and plunge into the beautiful, crystal-clear water for which Cayman Brac is famous.

Starfish at Starfish Point.

Starfish at Starfish Point.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Cayman Islands Travel Guide.

#3 – Dominica

The view from Scotts Head of the narrow isthmus that separates the fierce Atlantic and the calm Caribbean.

The view from Scott’s Head of the narrow isthmus that separates the fierce Atlantic and the calm Caribbean.

Known as the “Nature Island,” volcanic Dominica lies at the top of the Windward Islands, south of Guadeloupe and north of Martinique. Although a short boat ride away, Dominica is a world away from its more modern, developed French neighbours.

Kalinago culture is alive and thriving on Dominica.

Kalinago culture is alive and thriving on Dominica.

The island is still home to a sizeable population of indigenous people, the Kalinago, who’ve lived on the island since the 13th century.

Trafalgar falls: Offers the option of hot water (left) or cold water (right) bathing.

Trafalgar falls: Offers the option of hot water (left) or cold water (right) bathing.

Although Dominica is in the Caribbean, it is not considered a resort island and if you’re looking for all-inclusive resorts on sandy beaches this island is not for you. What the island does offer is spectacular, rugged nature. Where else can you swim in a warm-water waterfall which is adjacent to a cold-water waterfall?

For those who like snorkelling, Champagne Reef is not to be missed. Located south of the capital of Roseau, the warm, crystal clear water of the reef is infused with streams of bubbles which emanate from an underwater spring. It’s like snorkelling in a giant bottle of San Pellegrino. Magic!

Wotten Waven hot springs

At the end of a long day of hiking, what better way to relax than in one of the many hot sulphur spring baths in the mountainside village of Wotten Waven.

Hurricane Maria

In September of 2017, Dominica was devastated by Hurricane Maria. The island is slowly rebuilding and the government is keen to see tourists return. Lonely Planet recently published an update detailing which islands are ready for tourists post-hurricanes. Most guest houses and hotels are now operational and most sights are open.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Dominica Travel Guide.

#4 – Bonaire

Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline

When your plane pulls up outside the small terminal building of Bonaire’s Flamingo International Airport (which is painted ‘Flamingo pink’) you’ll know you’ve landed somewhere special. Part of the ‘ABC islands’, tiny and quiet Bonaire is a municipality of the Netherlands, located 48-km east of Curaçao and 140-km east of Aruba.

Sunset on Bonaire.

Sunset on Bonaire.

The island bills itself as a ‘Diver’s Paradise’ and with a colourful, onshore reef running the entire length of its protected leeward coast, the island lives up to its name. Due to the onshore reef, there are no sandy beaches on Bonaire with the nearest beach being on neighbouring Curaçao.

Caribbean Flamingo on Bonaire’s lake Gotomeer.

Caribbean Flamingo on Bonaire’s lake Gotomeer.

While the island is famous for its reef, the arid interior provides several attractions. Bonaire is famed for its Caribbean Flamingos which are drawn to the brackish salt water of the island’s lagoons. The best place to observe these graceful creatures is at Lake Gotomeer, which contains a healthy supply of brine shrimp, the main diet of Flamingos.


Did you know:

Flamingos are born with grey feathers, which gradually turn pink because of a natural pink dye called canthaxanthin that they obtain from their diet of brine shrimp.


 

Salt Mine on Bonaire

Looming on the horizon south of the capital, are a series of white hills which are part of the Cargill salt mining operation. Salt mining has always been an important industry on the island. Fort Oranje was built by the Dutch in 1639 to defend the harbour, from which the main export was salt. The capital (Kralendijk) then developed around the fort.

Cactus Vodka!

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

There are many cacti on Bonaire and one local company – The Cadushy Distillery – has figured a way to distil the spiny Kadushi Cactus into a less-than-spiny vodka, creating the world’s first cactus vodka.

The Kadushi cactus.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Bonaire Travel Guide.

#5 – Trinidad & Tobago

Male Purple Honeycreeper at Asa Wright nature reserve

Trinidad and Tobago (TT) is a two-island country offering the visitor two completely different destinations in one and, due to the diversity of its fauna, flora and people, one of the more interesting destinations in the Caribbean.

The national bird of Trinidad & Tobago, the Scarlet Ibis, at Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

The national bird of Trinidad & Tobago, the Scarlet Ibis, at Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

Trinidad

Nowhere is this diversity more obvious than on the main island of Trinidad, which has not always been a Caribbean island. Located just 11 km from the coast of Venezuela, Trinidad was once joined to the South American mainland and sits on the same continental shelf.

A close up view of a sleeping Tree Boa in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

A close up view of a sleeping Tree Boa in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

Due to its geological history, the geography, fauna, flora and climate of Trinidad are completely indistinguishable from neighbouring Venezuela. From Howler and Capuchin monkeys to ocelots and tree boa’s, Trinidad is home to a rich variety of ‘mainland’ wildlife which can be found in the jungles of South America but not on any other Caribbean island.

Female white-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Female white-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Trinidad offers some of the best bird watching in the Caribbean, with two highlights being the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, where thousands of Scarlet Ibis roost at sunset and the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Located in the Northern mountains, the centre is one of the top bird-watching spots in the Caribbean with 159 different species having been recorded.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

Tobago

Pigeon Point beach, Tobago

A short flight (or ferry ride) from Trinidad, neighbouring Tobago is much quieter and more relaxed than its bustling neighbour. The island is known for its laid-back tempo, it’s many fine beaches, rain-forest, excellent snorkelling and diving and so is a popular tourist destination.

North coast of Tobago

For more on this destination, please refer to my Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide.

#6 – Saba

Artwork at Saba airport, which is ranked as one of the world's most dangerous airports.

Artwork at Saba airport, which is ranked as one of the world’s most dangerous airports.

Along with Bonaire and neighbouring St. Eustatius (Statia), this volcanic island of 1,991 souls is part of the Caribbean Netherlands. At 887 metres (2,910 ft), the summit of Saba – Mount Scenery – is the highest point within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Sand-less Saba is completely unique! A rugged volcanic peak which rises steeply out of the Caribbean sea, all the major infrastructure on the island was hand-built by defiant locals after they were advised by Dutch and Swiss engineers that infrastructure couldn’t be built on the impossibly steep slopes of the island.

The main settlement on Saba, Windwardside, with Mount Scenery in the background.

The main settlement on Saba, Windwardside, with Mount Scenery in the background.

The one road on the island, known as “The Road”, is a 16 km ribbon of hand‐laid stone which bisects the entire island.

After engineers advised a road couldn’t be built, one local resident took a basic engineering course then starting laying out a route across the island. It took 20 years for locals to hand-cut and lay the stone with the road opening in 1958.

At about the same time, Dutch engineers also advised there was no area on Saba level enough to construct a runway.

Again, they would be proved wrong by the defiant locals. In 1959, regional aviator, Remy de Haenen performed an aerial survey of the island and identified “Flat Point” as a suitable area for a runway.

Within weeks, the locals had cleared and graded the area in preparation for a landing. De Haenen made the first landing of an aircraft on the island on February 9, 1959 with nearly the entire population of the island in attendance.

No room for pilot error at perilous Saba airport. "The Road" snakes its way from the airport across the island to Fort Bay.

No room for pilot error at perilous Saba airport. “The Road” snakes its way from the airport across the island to Fort Bay.

One of the World’s Most Dangerous Airports

Saba Airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world, and boasts the shortest commercial runway at 400-m in length.

Arriving and departing by plane is one of the highlights of a visit to the island – it’s both dramatic and scary. At the end of the runway are cliffs that plunge into the sea and on one side of the airport is a towering mountain, all of which present plenty of challenges for the pilots of Winair – the only airline to fly to Saba.

All flights to this tricky airport are flown by the most experienced of Winair pilots from neighbouring St. Martin and utilise special STOL (Short Take-off / Landing) aircraft.

Upon landing, the pilot jams on the breaks the instant the wheels hit the tarmac. Upon take-off, you only start climbing once you have flown off the end of the runway – a bit like a young bird being pushed out of the nest for the first time – you just have to fly!

If it all sounds too scary, you have the more sedate option of arriving by ferry from St. Martin.

A strict building code on the island ensures all buildings are painted white, with green trim and red roofs.

A strict building code on the island ensures all buildings are painted white, with green trim and red roofs.

The main settlement of Saba is the picturesque village of Windwardside, which is located high up on the slopes of Mount Scenery at 400 metres.

The population of Windwardside is an eclectic mix of recently arrived expats (many of whom have introduced a creative flair to the island) and descendants of European migrants.

Less eclectic are the strict building codes which ensures all structures on the island sport the same white, green and red colour scheme.

Hiking trail on Saba.

Hiking trail on Saba.

While the only beach on the island consists of a tiny man-made strip of sand (adjacent to the airport), the real attractions of Saba are the extensive network of hiking trails and the incredible Scuba diving.

The only beach on Saba is man-made.

The only beach on Saba is man-made.

Saba is known for its unique pinnacle dive sites, created when magma pushed up through the seafloor creating underwater towers of rock which soar up to around 26-m beneath the surface.

Due to the unique underwater seascapes, diving on Saba is a unique experience. I chose to dive with Sea Saba, who I would recommend.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Saba Travel Guide

#7 – Jamaica

Jamaica Travel Guide: Rasta rafting guide

Rasta rafting guide

Jamaica is as smooth as its rums and as spicy as its Jerk – a rewarding destination for those willing to pull themselves away from the legendary beaches and venture off the beaten track.

There is much more to Jamaica than Bob Marley, quintessential tropical beaches and sunsets. The third largest island in the Caribbean (after Cuba and Hispaniola), offers an abundance of culture from Reggae music to Rastafarians, a unique cuisine in the form of ‘Jerk’, lush tropical rain forests, misty blue mountains, superb coffee, hidden waterfalls, meandering rivers, famous dark rums and so much more.

Beaches

Of the many beaches on the island, my favourite is Seven Mile beach at Negril. As the name suggests, this is a long stretch of powdery-white sand with a variety of accommodation options strung along the main road.

Seven Mile Beach, Negril.

Seven Mile Beach, Negril.

Blue Mountains

Away from the coast, the rugged, lush-green, verdant interior is home to many spectacular sights, including the famed Blue Mountains.

Located between Kingston to the south and Port Antonio to the north, and deriving their name from the azure haze which hangs over them, the Blue Mountains are the longest mountain range in Jamaica and include some of the highest peaks in the Caribbean. The highest point is Blue Mountain Peak, at 2256-m.

Blue Mountains, home to Jamaica’s famous coffee farms

Today, the mountains are renowned as being the place where the famous Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee is cultivated.

Coffee plants were first introduced to Jamaica by a former British governor in 1728. Their cultivation started in a field near a parish in Kingston before eventually being extended into the Blue mountains where they flourished.

I travelled through the mountains in my rental car, which allowed me to stop at various cafes along the main road, where I could sample the most amazing, freshly brewed coffee.

Roasting coffee in the Blue Mountains

Waterfalls

The incredible refreshing - Dunn's river falls.

The incredible refreshing – Dunn’s river falls.

Mountainous Jamaica is home to many wonderful waterfalls, all of which provide a refreshing escape from the heat and humidity. One of the more famous is Dunn’s River falls which are located a short drive from the north coast city of Ocho Rios.

The falls are fed by spring water, which is rich with calcium carbonate. This deposits travertine, which is a form of limestone. The falls are described as a ‘living phenomenon’ because the travertine is continuously rebuilt by the sediments in the spring water.

The falls are 55-m high and cascade gently over limestone for 180-m before emptying onto a beautiful sandy beach and into the Caribbean sea. The falls is one of the very few travertine waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the sea.

Rio Grande

Rafting the Rio Grande.

Rafting the Rio Grande.

Another highlight of my trip to Jamaica was my raft trip down the Rio Grande. Located on the north coast in the parish of Portland, the Rio Grande was named when the Spanish occupied Jamaica in the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the largest rivers in Jamaica, it is today a popular destination for rafting.

The river is fed by rainwater flowing down from the Blue Mountains. The bamboo rafts, which today carry paying tourists, were originally used to transport produce, especially bananas, from the interior of the island.

The ‘rafting for fun’ craze was started by Hollywood star, Errol Flynn, who made Port Antonio his home and wanted something fun to do when his friends visited. My rafting guide was a 70-year old Rasta dude who was as cool as the flowing river water.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Jamaica Travel Guide.

#8 – Dominican Republic

Vendors on the beach at Boca Chica

Discovered by Columbus on his first voyage to the Americas. Home to the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas and today the most popular tourist destination in the Caribbean region, the Dominican Republic is a dream destination.

There is good reason the masses flock to the Dominican Republic (DR). The country is a unique destination, offering an abundance of history, culture, charming colonial cities, white-sand beaches, excellent diving and snorkelling, unspoilt nature, soaring mountain ranges (including the highest peak in the Caribbean) and a friendly and welcoming population.

Add to this a stable political environment, good infrastructure, reliable and modern transportation options, affordable prices and a booming economy. It’s easy to see why the country is the preferred choice for so many visitors. There is something for everyone in the DR – no matter your interest or budget.

A true colonial relic - the Convent of the Dominican Order in Santo Domingo.

A true colonial relic – the Convent of the Dominican Order in Santo Domingo.

Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic, was founded in 1496 by Bartholomew Columbus (the younger brother of Christopher Columbus), and has the distinction of being the oldest continuously inhabited European city in the Americas. 

Interior of the first Cathedral built in the Americas - Catedral Primada de América.

Interior of the first Cathedral built in the Americas – Catedral Primada de América.

The old town, known as the ‘Zona Colonial‘, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a charming place to base yourself, with lots of cool and breezy, renovated colonial relics providing pleasant accommodation options and a respite from the constant heat and humidity.

The narrow streets of the old town are home to many ‘firsts’ in the Americas; the ‘first road’, the ‘first hospital’, the ‘first cathedral’, the ‘first convent’ and so on. If you enjoy immersing yourself in history and culture, Santo Domingo is an engaging destination.

Built by Bartholomew Columbus as his residence - Alcazar de Colon, Santo Domingo.

Built by Bartholomew Columbus as his residence – Alcazar de Colon, Santo Domingo.

The dining and entertainment scene in the old town is one of the best in the Caribbean and is constantly evolving, with new restaurants and bars opening on a regular basis. With all this activity, there’s much to keep the visitor occupied and when you need to take a break, beautiful white-sand beaches are a short taxi ride away.

Beaches

Broad-billed Tody in the 'Indigenous Eyes National Park', Punta Cana.

Broad-billed Tody in the ‘Indigenous Eyes National Park’, Punta Cana.

Without a doubt, the most popular tourist destination in the Dominican Republic is Punta Cana. Located at the easternmost tip of the Dominican Republic and blessed with 32 kilometres of fine white-sand beaches, Punta Cana is the #1 tourist playground with flights arriving at its busy airport from throughout Europe, North and South America.

All this tourism has had a negative impact on the one key asset, the beach, with almost all beach-side land walled-off by large, private resorts who restrict access to their paying guests. For those staying away from the beach, the only access points are a few crowded and congested public lane-ways.

Natural springs in the ‘Indigenous Eyes National Park’, Punta Cana

One non-beach highlight in Punta Cana is the Indigenous Eyes National Park. This is a private forest reserve operated by the Punta Cana Ecological Foundation.

The reserve features walking trails, which lead you through the forest, past twelve crystal-clear, freshwater lagoons. Five of the lagoons are open to visitors for swimming, a great way to cool off on a hot day.

The lagoons are home to fish and turtles and the trails provide good bird watching opportunities and will eventually lead you onto the beach.

Stormy skies over the beach at Las Terrenas

My preferred beach experience can be found at the much quieter Las Terrenas, which is located on the north-east coast, a 3.5 hour drive north of Punta Cana.

Beach at Las Terrenas.

Beach at Las Terrenas.

Las Terrenas is nestled among green hills and started life as a quiet fishing village, however it was only a matter of time before developers would exploit its fine white sand beaches.

Today the beaches are lined with hotels, restaurants and bars but there are far fewer tourists here than Punta Cana and beach access is not restricted.

Mountains

Baiguate Waterfall, Jarabacoa

Baiguate Waterfall, Jarabacoa

While the focus of Dominican tourist brochures are the many fine beaches, the mountainous interior of the country also warrants investigation.

A centre for tourism, with lots of accommodation options, is the mountain town of Jarabacoa (525 metres above sea level) which is located a two-hour drive north-west of Santo Domingo, via an excellent highway.

The pleasant countryside around Jarabacoa is full of hiking trails which follow the course of various rivers and provide access to a number of waterfalls. For those hikers with lots of energy and enthusiasm, nearby Pico Duarte (3,087m) is the highest mountain in the Caribbean.

With an average daily temperature of 22 degrees (Celsius), the climate in Jarabacoa is cooler and less humid than the low lands, which allows local farmers to grow lots of amazing produce, including the juiciest and sweetest of strawberries.

Rio Jemenez, Jarabacoa

Rio Jemenez, Jarabacoa

For more on this destination, please refer to my Dominican Republic Travel Guide.

#9 – Cuba

Cuba is an enchanting destination! A country with a long and complex history and fascinating culture, the largest island in the Caribbean, which is home to the region’s largest population.

Once a favoured hedonistic destination for American celebrities and socialites, Cuba had a reputation as an exotic and permissive playground.

In the early 20th century, Cuba’s ideal tropical beaches attracted the American masses who could purchase cheap package tours from Florida, which included round-trip tickets from Miami, hotel, food and entertainment.

The island also attracted famous celebrities such as Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra and Ernest Hemingway (who loved Cuba so much he relocated to Havana).

A propaganda painting in Havana's 'Museum of the Revolution', celebrates the overthrow of former President Batista by Fidel Castro.

A propaganda painting in Havana’s ‘Museum of the Revolution’, celebrates the overthrow of former President Batista by Fidel Castro.

The party ended in 1959 when a young Fidel Castro, having overthrown the corrupt President, Fulgencio Batista, came to power, installed a communist government and promptly destroyed all symbols of the hedonistic past, including most tourist infrastructure. This effectively ended tourism in Cuba with visitor numbers plummeting from 350,000 visitor’s in 1957 to 4,000 in 1961.

School children in Havana.

School children in Havana.

Today, the country is once again open to tourism and, in 2016, it attracted a record four million tourists, many of them arriving on cruise ships, carrying US passports.

Cruise ship arrivals increased from 24 in 2012 to 139 in 2015. The Ministry of tourism has forecast more exponential growth in the coming years, all thanks to an increase in visitors from the United States.

Despite the setbacks from the current US administration, the floodgates have been opened and American tourists are once again flocking to this Caribbean jewel.

Havana

The old town in Havana is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture,

The old town in Havana is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture,

Havana is the throbbing heart of Cuba. It’s the capital city, largest city (population: 2.1 million), main aviation and maritime hub and leading commercial centre.

At its heart lies the charming Habana Vieja, the old town and the place of most interest to tourists. Within the walls of the old town, the party never stops, with Salsa music echoing from bars where you can dance 24×7 and where it’s socially acceptable to drink Mojito’s (the national drink) anytime of day.

A Florist in the old town of Havana.

A Florist in the old town of Havana.

With a history stretching back 500 years, the old town is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture and, after 50 years of neglect, is slowly, and carefully, being renovated. Walking the streets of the enchanting old town, you can feel the history around you – it’s a powerful place.

There are lots of classic beauties to be found on the streets of Havana.

There are lots of classic beauties to be found on the streets of Havana.

The old town is comprised of numerous grand squares, which can best be described as jewels of colonial architecture.

Lining the squares are cathedrals, old mansions which have been converted into museum’s and galleries, shop’s, restaurant’s, cafe’s, bar’s, and always – music.

The music never stops in the old town, there’s always a band playing somewhere and there are lots of venues where you can dance salsa through the night.

Outside Havana

The colourful old town of Trinidad.

The colourful old town of Trinidad.

Cuba is a largely urban country, and offers many other resplendent colonial cities such as Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Ciego De Avila, Camagüey, Holguín and Santiago de Cuba.

Parque José Martí in Cienfuegos.

Parque José Martí in Cienfuegos.

Of these, my top pick would be Cienfuegos which was founded by French settlers escaping the revolution in neighbouring Haiti. The French established themselves as agricultural barons and used their wealth to construct fantastic mansions in the neoclassical style, which today makes Cienfuegos a pleasure to explore.

A classic American car parked outside Teatro Terry in downtown Cienfuegos.

A classic American car parked outside Teatro Terry in downtown Cienfuegos.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Cuba Travel Guide.

#10 – Bermuda

Bermuda Travel Guide: White Tailed Tropic bird

Native to Bermuda – the White Tailed Tropic bird is locally known as the Long-tail.

Okay! Bermuda is not part of the Caribbean but it is an island nation in the Atlantic and located a mere 1463 km (909 miles) north-east of the Bahamas – its nearest Caribbean neighbour.

Although, in geographical terms, it’s not part of the Caribbean region, in many other respects, Bermuda has a distinctly Caribbean soul, so I’m including it in my Caribbean ‘Top 10’.

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach.

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach.

Although a British territory, approximately 60% of the population traces its heritage to the West Indies with the Caribbean connection evident in everything from the local music, cuisine and culture to the Caribbean lilt of Bermudian voices.

Despite being located well north of the Tropic of Cancer, Bermuda is kept warmer than usual thanks to the Gulf Stream. It’s all like the Caribbean – just a little to the north!

Bermuda Blues

The beaches on Bermuda can only be described as gorgeous, offering translucent waters, pink-sand and rivalling anything found in the Caribbean. The surrounding reef offers a plethora of diving and snorkelling opportunities and the rich, carefully preserved history is engaging.

Today a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

Today a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

St. Georges town was Bermuda’s first English settlement and served as the capital of Bermuda for its first 200 years. The colourful, mostly pedestrian, town is beautifully renovated and offers a wealth of sights for visitors to explore.

The colourful, calm, traffic-free, streets of St. Georges are a pleasure to explore.

The colourful, calm, traffic-free, streets of St. Georges are a pleasure to explore.

Bermuda Shorts

How to wear Bermuda Shorts
Source: “Tabs” – Authentic Bermuda Shorts

If you’re still struggling to find a reason to visit Bermuda then you simply must go as there is no other place on the planet where you can buy yourself a pair of genuine Bermuda shorts. Winston Churchill once famously quipped “The short-pant is a terrible fashion choice, unless it is from Bermuda.”

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at 'Tabs' in Hamilton

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at ‘Tabs’ in Hamilton

Local men wear their shorts (always with matching knee-length socks) as a matter of pride. They are perfectly acceptable attire for any occasion, including business meetings and weddings!

Bermuda shorts come in a variety of colours, with red (same colour as the flag) being especially popular.

Bermuda shorts come in a variety of colours, with red (same colour as the flag) being especially popular.

For more on this destination, please refer to my Bermuda Travel Guide.

 


That’s the end of my Top 10 Caribbean Island Experiences. I Hope it’s provided some inspiration for your next trip.  

Safe travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences Top 10 Caribbean Experiences

Montserrat Travel Guide

Montserrat is a modern-day, tropical Pompeii!

Montserrat Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Montserrat Travel Guide!

Date Visited: June 2018

Introduction

Feel like visiting a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii? The volcanic island of Montserrat offers a very different travel experience from the usual sun, sand and beaches.

The former Government House in Plymouth lies abandoned, destroyed by pyroclastic flows.

The former Government House in Plymouth lies abandoned, destroyed by pyroclastic flows.

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, tiny Montserrat is slowly dusting itself off after recent volcanic eruptions decimated the southern part of the island (including the capital Plymouth), covering large areas in ash, mud and other volcanic debris.

Trolleys, covered in volcano ash, remain where they were left in the former Angelo's supermarket in Plymouth.

Trolleys, covered in volcano ash, remain where they were left in the former Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.

While the Soufrière Hills Volcano is far from dormant (there has been no considerable activity since 2012) Montserrat is open for tourism and visitors are once again returning to the island that, due to its rich Irish heritage, bills itself as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean‘.

This mud and ash filled bathroom at the former Montserrat Springs hotel is definitely out of order.

This mud and ash filled bathroom at the former Montserrat Springs hotel is definitely out-of-order.

Montserrat is one of 14 British Overseas Territories, governed by a locally elected Premier and Parliament and is the only place outside of Ireland where St. Patrick’s Day is a public holiday (and the biggest festival of the year).

Inundated by pyroclastic flows, only the roof of this building remains visible.

Inundated by pyroclastic flows, only the roof of this building remains visible.

Whilst the island has a few nice (black sand) beaches, the main draw today is ‘volcano tourism‘, with a highlight of any visit being a tour of the fascinating, abandoned capital of Plymouth, which lies entombed under many metres of volcanic debris, inside a restricted exclusion zone.

The former 'Economy Bakery' in Plymouth.

The former ‘Economy Bakery’ in Plymouth.

Plymouth remains the capital of Montserrat, making it the only ghost town that serves as the capital of a political territory.

Files and paperwork remain where they were left in an abandoned office in Plymouth.

Files and paperwork remain where they were left in an abandoned office in Plymouth.

Due to the ongoing volcanic threat, the southern two-thirds of the island lie inside a restricted exclusion zone, leaving residents and tourists with the lush, green, northern third of the island to enjoy.

An abandoned office in Plymouth.

An abandoned office in Plymouth.

The population of the island has dropped from 12,000 at the time of the eruption to 4,900 today, with many former residents taking up UK resettlement packages.

The concrete supports on the roof of the former government administration building in Plymouth were built to withstand a category 5 hurricane but the building was no match against a volcanic eruption.

The concrete supports on the roof of the former government administration building in Plymouth were built to withstand a category 5 hurricane but the building was no match against a volcanic eruption.

For a period of ten years from 1979 – 1989, the island was a magnet for many famous musicians who came to record at the legendary AIR Studios Montserrat, which was created by Sir George Martin – the renown English record producer who signed The Beatles and produced every album they made until they disbanded (see the ‘Musical Legacy‘ section below for more).

A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.

A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.

Location

Plymouth, Montserrat

Located in the Caribbean Sea, Montserrat is part of the Leeward islands. Its nearest neighbours are Guadeloupe (86 km) to the south-east, Antigua (55 km) to the north-east and Nevis (62 km) to the north-west.

Flying over the north-west coast of Montserrat.

Flying over the north-west coast of Montserrat.

History

Artwork at the Hilltop Coffee House showing a typical Montserrat landscape.

Artwork at the Hilltop Coffee House showing a typical Montserrat landscape.

Like neighbouring islands, the original inhabitants of Montserrat were native Arawak and Carib Indians who migrated up through the Antilles chain from South America. Archaeological digs in the Centre Hills area of the island have found evidence of human habitation extending back to 4000 BC.

As with every other island in the Caribbean, the first European to arrive was Christopher Columbus during his second voyage to the New World in 1493. Columbus named the island after the Virgin Mary and the Monastery of Montserrat, which is located in the hills outside of Barcelona, Spain.

Spain never attempted to take control of the island and it wasn’t until 1632 that the first Irish settlers arrived from neighbouring St. Kitts, some 80 km (50 miles) to the North. The Catholic settlers came to the island to escape Protestant intolerance and soon more Irish from Virginia joined the settlers. By 1648 there were ‘1,000 white families’ on the island, the vast majority of whom had a connection to Ireland.

The Irish established plantations and, being historical allies of France (and not being friendly towards the English), invited France to claim the island in 1666. The French took control but never sent any troops to protect the island, leaving it exposed to an English invasion, which took place later that same year.

Once the British gained control of the island, they imported African slaves to work on the various sugar plantations. Once slavery was abolished in 1833, a Quaker, Joseph Sturge, purchased a sugar estate on the island as part of his campaign to support freed slaves.

Souvenirs on sale at one of the few gift shops on the island.

Souvenirs on sale at one of the few gift shops on the island.

More family members eventually joined him on the island and, in 1869, they established the Montserrat Company Limited, planting lime trees, which led to the commercial production of lime juice. They also established a school, and sold parcels of land to the inhabitants of the island.

From 1871 to 1958, Montserrat was administered as part of the federal crown colony of the British Leeward Islands. In 1958 it joined the short-lived West Indies Federation and, after the federation was dissolved in 1962, it became a Crown Colony.

Flag

The flag of Montserrat.

The flag of Montserrat.

Being a British territory, the flag of Montserrat features the British Blue Ensign with the Montserrat coat of arms. The arms feature Erin, the female personification of Ireland, and the golden harp, another symbol of Ireland, all of which reflects the colony’s Irish ancestry.

Montserrat souvenir flags on sale at the Hilltop Coffee Shop.

Montserrat souvenir flags on sale at the Hilltop Coffee Shop.

While the Montserrat flag can be seen flying over most parts of the island, the Union Jack can be seen flying outside the Governors Office in Brades (the new capital).

The Union Jack flying outside the Governors Office in Brades.

The Union Jack flying outside the Governors Office in Brades.

Natural Disasters

Hurricane Hugo

Two recent natural disasters have had a devastating impact on the island which was once a tourist playground. The first was in 1989, when Hurricane Hugo (a category five storm) slammed into Montserrat, damaging 90% of all structures on the island, including AIR Studios Montserrat, which was then abandoned. Hugo left 11,000 out of 12,000 people homeless and set back the tourist industry considerably.

Soufrière Hills Volcano

The Soufrière Hills Volcano is very shy and normally shrouded in cloud and, due to ongoing activity, access anywhere near it is strictly prohibited.

The Soufrière Hills Volcano is very shy and normally shrouded in cloud and, due to ongoing activity, access anywhere near it is strictly prohibited.

The second (more cataclysmic) natural disaster commenced in 1995 when, after a long period of dormancy, the Soufrière Hills Volcano became active.

The nearby capital, Plymouth, was evacuated in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclastic flows (a fast-moving current of hot gas and volcanic matter that moves away from a volcano reaching speeds of up to 700 km/h (430 mph) and temperatures of about 1,000 °C) and lahars (volcanic mud flows).

Exclusion Zones

This map of Montserrat outside the airport terminal shows the Exclusion Zone.

This map of Montserrat outside the airport terminal shows the Exclusion Zone.

While driving around the island, you need to be aware of the different Exclusion Zones.  There are five defined zones, being A, B, C, F and V.

Roadside signs advise when you are entering a particular exclusion zone.

Roadside signs advise when you are entering a particular exclusion zone.

  • Zones A & B: Open 24 hours and inhabited.
  • Zone C & F: Open only during daylight hours and not inhabited.
The all important Zone V advisory sign is easily missed as it's laying in grass on the side of the road.

The all important Zone V advisory sign is easily missed as it’s laying in grass on the side of the road.

  • Zone V: The main exclusion zone, which includes the city of Plymouth. Strictly forbidden to enter (without an authorised guide) and if you are caught inside the zone without the correct permit you are subject to prosecution. Unfortunately the roadside sign which announces the demarcation line for Zone V is currently laying in long grass on the side of the road and is easily missed.
Important signage inside the exclusion zone on Montserrat!

Important signage inside the exclusion zone on Montserrat!

Montserrat Volcano Observatory

The Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

The Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

Perched high on the side of a hill in the village of Flemmings, and with a clear view of the Soufrière Hills Volcano, is the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO). Staff at the observatory use a variety of instruments (and a sleek helicopter) to continuously monitor volcanic activity.

Scientists at the Montserrat Volcano Observatory monitor the volcano using different means including a helicopter.

Scientists at the Montserrat Volcano Observatory monitor the volcano using different means including a helicopter.

Musical Legacy

‘The Police’ recorded the video for ‘Every Little Thing She Does is Magic’ on Montserrat.

Tiny Montserrat has had a huge impact on the world of music and it’s all thanks to the vision of one man, renown English record producer, Sir George Martin. Known as “the 5th Beetle‘, Sir George decided quiet Montserrat would be an ideal place to create a 2nd ‘away-from-it-all’ recording studio where artists could come and focus solely on their music.

Opened in 1979, AIR (Associated Independent Recording) Studios Montserrat offered all of the technical facilities of its London predecessor, but with the advantages of an exotic location and over the next 10 years attracted a string of world-famous musicians such as:

  • Boy George
  • Dire Straits (who recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ at the studio)
  • Duran Duran
  • Elton John (who recorded ‘Too Low for Zero‘ at the studio)
  • Eric Clapton
  • Genesis 
  • Jimmy Buffet (who recorded the album ‘Volcano‘ while looking at the then-dormant Soufrière Hills Volcano from the studio)
  • Little River Band
  • Lou Reed
  • Luther Vandross
  • Michael Jackson
  • Paul McCartney (who recorded the hit single ‘Ebony and Ivory‘ with Stevie Wonder at the studio)
  • Sheena Easton
  • Stevie Wonder
  • The Police (who recorded ‘Ghost in the Machine‘ and ‘Synchronicity‘ at the studio)
  • The Rolling Stones 
  • Ultravox
The abandoned AIR Recording Studios on Montserrat.

The abandoned AIR Recording Studios on Montserrat.

At least 67 albums were recorded at the studio until, like everything else on the island, it was severely damaged in 1989 by Hurricane Hugo and was abandoned. Today, this icon from the pop era is quietly rotting away in the tropical heat, surrounded by fencing and signs warning people not to enter.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee House, illustrates the musical legacy from the days of the Air Recording studios.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee House, illustrates the musical legacy from the days of the Air Recording studios.

You can learn more about the musical legacy of Montserrat from the informative displays which have been arranged by David Lea at the Hilltop Coffee House.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.

Arrow

While almost all musicians who recorded on Montserrat were from more distant lands, one artist – Alphonsus Cassell (aka Arrow), was a homegrown talent who found worldwide fame with his famous Soca music hit ‘Hot, Hot, Hot’.

Currency

My collection of Eastern Caribbean Dollars.

My collection of Eastern Caribbean Dollars.

The currency of Montserrat is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is issued by the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, whose headquarters are on neighbouring St. Kitts. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Besides Montserrat, the EC$ is also the currency of:

  • Anguilla
  • Antigua & Barbuda
  • Grenada
  • St. Kitts & Nevis
  • Dominica
  • St. Lucia
  • St. Vincent and the Grenadines

The only ATMs available on the island are in Brades at the Royal Bank of Canada (all cards accepted) and Bank of Montserrat (only Visa accepted). Many places on the island do not accept credit cards.

The Great Montserrat Bank Robbery

A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay's Bank branch in Plymouth - scene of the great bank robbery.

A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay’s Bank branch in Plymouth – scene of the great bank robbery.

In 1995, the reawakening of the Soufrière Hills Volcano sent pyroclastic flows and ash falls across a wide area of southern Montserrat including the capital, Plymouth. As the capital was quickly abandoned, a sum of nearly a million Eastern Caribbean dollars, worth about USD$300,000, was left laying in a bank vault at the Plymouth branch of Barclay’s Bank.

At some stage following the evacuation, locals – who had knowledge of the now buried treasure – returned to the bank premises, tunnelled through the volcanic rubble, then through the 20-inch reinforced concrete walls of the safe and stole the cash.

It took some time for the robbery to come to light and those implicated included a former bank employee and two local police officers. The Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, who belatedly reacted by cancelling a large range of Montserrat-registered bank notes (thereby leaving many people holding worthless pieces of currency) was criticised for its handling of the matter.

Philately

Stamps from Montserrat are popular with collectors around the world.

Stamps from Montserrat are popular with collectors around the world.

Like other small territories around the world, stamps issued by the Montserrat Post Office are popular with Philatelists word-wide. Currently the GPO (General Post Office) in Brades is operating out of temporary premises which are very claustrophobic and not worth visiting – unless you wish to feel like a sardine in a can.

The colourful fauna and flora of Montserrat are favourite subjects for stamp issues.

The colourful fauna and flora of Montserrat are favourite subjects for stamp issues.

However, located on a breezy hill south of Brades (near Angelo’s supermarket), you’ll find the much more spacious and agreeable Montserrat Philatelic Bureau where the friendly staff (email: monphil@candw.ms) will happily assist you with your Philatelic needs. They previously operated a website (www.montserratstampbureau.com) but this is no longer available. The bureau is another branch of the post office and as such you can take care of regular postal business here without fighting the masses at the poky GPO.

The special commemorative booklet which was produced for the 30th Anniversary of the Philatelic Bureau.

The special commemorative booklet which was produced for the 30th Anniversary of the Philatelic Bureau.

To commemorate its 30th anniversary in 2006, the bureau produced a booklet which contains many pages of coloured photos of different stamp issues. This booklet is available from the bureau free of charge.

Sightseeing

View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.

View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.

Plymouth

The highlight of my visit to Montserrat was my tour inside the exclusion zone, which was conducted by the knowledgeable and informative Sun Lea, the owner of Montserrat Island Tours.

Touring the ruins of Plymouth with my guide, Sun, who always had radio contact with the MVO and the police.

Touring the ruins of Plymouth with my guide, Sun, who always had radio contact with the MVO and the police.

The ruins of the capital can only be visited on a guided tour, conducted by a specially trained guide and requires the issue of a police permit.

A view of the buried capital. The white structure in the foreground is the rooftop terrace of a buried building.

A view of the buried capital. The white structure in the foreground is the rooftop terrace of a buried building.

Tours can remain in the city for one hour and during that time the guide is required to maintain constant radio contact with monitoring staff at the nearby Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

A photo of Plymouth in its heyday as the capital of Montserrat, before it was devastated by a pyroclastic flow.

A photo of Plymouth in its heyday as the capital of Montserrat, before it was devastated by a pyroclastic flow.

Another requirement was that, even while walking about, the motor of our vehicle was always to be left running in case the MVO advised that we need to leave the area ASAP.

Trolleys remain where they were left at Angelo's supermarket in Plymouth.

Trolleys remain where they were left at Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.

The half-day tour commenced at the Hilltop Coffee Shop (owned by Sun’s parents – David and Clover Lea), which was very convenient as I needed my morning coffee before going into the danger zone.

The former entrance to Angelo's supermarket. A new branch has now opened in Brades.

The former entrance to Angelo’s supermarket. A new branch has now opened in Brades.

The first stop was the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO) where we had a view of the cloud-covered Soufrière Hills volcano and watched a documentary from the days following the initial eruption – most of the footage for which was filmed by David Lea.

Empty baby food bottles litter the ash-covered floor of Angelo's supermarket.

Empty baby food bottles litter the ash-covered floor of Angelo’s supermarket.

From the observatory, we drove over the Pelham river into an eerie ash-covered landscape full of abandoned buildings. As we entered into Zone V, the exclusion zone, Sun contacted the local police patrol via radio to announce he was entering the zone “with four souls on-board“.

The ground floor of most buildings in Plymouth now lie below ground.

The ground floor of most buildings in Plymouth now lie below ground.

Plymouth was constructed on historical lava deposits in the shadow of the volcano and was evacuated when the volcano resumed erupting in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclastic flows and lahars.

Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with ash, mud and huge rocks.

Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with ash, mud and huge rocks.

After touring Plymouth we drove to a nearby former residential neighbourhood where we visited the ruined Montserrat Springs hotel – once one of the island’s finest.

The abandoned office at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

The abandoned office at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

Like a cake dusted with icing sugar, the entire property is coated in volcanic ash and is entered through the reception where paperwork and a calculator still remain on the desk.

Valisha waiting a long time to check in at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

Valisha waiting a long time to check in at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

 

A calculator and ledger book remain on the reception desk of the abandoned Montserrat Springs Hotel.

A calculator and ledger book remain on the reception desk of the abandoned Montserrat Springs Hotel.

Once past reception we visited the former pool area which has now been filled with volcanic mud as have all the rooms on the ground floor.

A 'before and after' photo of the pool area at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

A ‘before and after’ photo of the pool area at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

In all the rooms, bedside lights remain attached to the walls (but now just inches off the new ground level), shower curtains and other bathroom fittings remain in place as do buried dressing tables and wardrobes. Walking the corridors of the old hotel was indeed eerie.

An old bedhead and bedside lights, which are now just above the new ground level at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

An old bedhead and bedside lights, which are now just above the new ground level at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

 

Buried furniture, entombed in the former rooms of the Montserrat Springs hotel.

Buried furniture, entombed in the former rooms of the Montserrat Springs hotel.

 

All the ground floor rooms at the former Montserrat Springs Hotel have been inundated with volcanic ash and mud.

All the ground floor rooms at the former Montserrat Springs Hotel have been inundated with volcanic ash and mud.

Garibaldi Hill

A view of Plymouth from Garibaldi Hill shows the path cut through the capital by the pyroclastic flows and lahars.

A view of Plymouth from Garibaldi Hill shows the path cut through the capital by the pyroclastic flows and lahars.

After crossing the Belham river, a steep, narrow, unmarked road leads to the top of Garibaldi Hill from where you have sweeping views of the southern part of the island, including the buried capital of Plymouth and the Soufrière Hills volcano, which looms over everything on this part of the island.

Montserrat National Trust

Artwork at the Montserrat National Trust.

Artwork at the Montserrat National Trust.

The Montserrat National Trust is tasked with preserving and conserving the cultural, historical and archaeological heritage of the Island. Located on the main road in Olveston, the trust headquarters features a modest botanical garden, the Oriole gift shop (named after the national bird), a cafe (closed at the time of my visit) and historical and cultural displays.

A display at the Montserrat National Trust shows a glass bowl, bent out of shape by the heat of the pyroclastic flow which devastated Plymouth.

A display at the Montserrat National Trust shows a glass bowl, bent out of shape by the heat of the pyroclastic flow which devastated Plymouth.

Runaway Ghaut

According to local legend, taking a sip of water from 'Runaway Ghaut' will ensure you return to Montserrat.

According to local legend, taking a sip of water from ‘Runaway Ghaut’ will ensure you return to Montserrat.

Located on the side of the main road south of Woodlands, is this natural gorge which is fed by a fresh water spring. Local legend has it that if you drink from here you will return to Montserrat. Interestingly the locals mispronounce the name as ‘runaway gut‘.

Woodlands Bay

Who needs a white-sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful volcanic-sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.

Who needs a white-sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful volcanic-sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.

This beautiful, black-sand beach, lies at the bottom of a steep, windy road and is often deserted. If you wish to snorkel there are a couple of reefs off the northern end of the beach.

Little Bay

Little Bay offers ideal swimming on a beautiful black-sand beach and great sunset views.

Little Bay offers ideal swimming on a beautiful black-sand beach and great sunset views.

Located at the top of the west coast next to the ferry dock, Little Bay offers a nice black-sand beach, beautiful sunsets and a couple of restaurants/ bars (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more).

This has been designated as the new capital of Montserrat and is currently a work-in-progress. The National Museum of Montserrat is located here but has limited opening hours so best to call ahead.

Silver Hills

The panoramic view south from Silver Hills with the new settlement of 'Lookout' in the foreground and the remnants of a pyroclastic flow in the background.

The panoramic view south from Silver Hills with the new settlement of ‘Lookout’ in the foreground and the remnants of a pyroclastic flow in the background.

Located at the top of the island and accessed via a very steep, one lane (but two-way) road behind the airport, Silver Hills affords panoramic views over the northern part of the island, including the new airport, the new settlement of Lookout, the east and west coasts and the Centre Hills and beyond.

Jack Boy Hill

A view into the exclusion zone from the Jack Boy Hill lookout. The old airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried in the rubble below.

A view into the exclusion zone from the Jack Boy Hill lookout. The old airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried in the rubble below.

At the end of the road on the east coast is this lookout which provides panoramic views into the exclusion zone. The former airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried under the huge pyroclastic flow directly below the hill.

Accommodation

A sweeping view of the west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

There are just two hotels on Montserrat but many more guesthouses, B&B’s and apartments, all of which are listed on the Accommodation page of Visit Montserrat.

Gingerbread Hill

While on the island, I stayed at the wonderful Gingerbread Hill, which is owned by Clover and David Lea who are the creative force behind the nearby Hilltop Coffee Shop.

The Gingerbread Hill Guest House on Montserrat.

The Gingerbread Hill Guest House on Montserrat.

Perched on top of an exposed, breezy hill (no air-con needed!), the guest house offers four spacious apartments with the top-floor, Heavenly Suite, offering unbeatable views of the island and beyond.

By day you have stunning, uninterrupted, panoramic views of the mountains, rain forest and the sea (including the distant island of Nevis – i.e. St. Kitts & Nevis) and at night, incredible star-gazing from the private rooftop terrace (zero light pollution) and views of the lights of Nevis.

A friendly Green Anole lizard at Gingerbread Hill.

A friendly Green Anole lizard at Gingerbread Hill.

Clover and David can arrange car rentalairport transfers and tours of Plymouth and the Exclusion Zone, which are conducted by their son – Sun – through his company – Montserrat Island Tours (highly recommended).

The views from the 'Heavenly Suite' at the Gingerbread Guest house truly are heavenly.<br /> <i>Source: Gingerbread Hill Guest House.</i>

The views from the ‘Heavenly Suite’ at the Gingerbread Guest house truly are heavenly.
Source: Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

Eating Out

Bee Bee's Bakery in Brades.

Bee Bee’s Bakery in Brades.

For an island of 4,900 souls, Montserrat offers a surprisingly good selection of dining options, serving everything from unpretentious local cuisine to more refined fine dining. A full list of dining options is available on the Visit Montserrat website while here I’ve listed some of my personal favourites (ordered from north to south).

Little Bay is home to Time Out Bar & Restaurant which is a great place to have a drink while watching the sunset.

Little Bay is home to Time Out Bar & Restaurant which is a great place to have a drink while watching the sunset.

Time Out Bar & Restaurant

At the northern end of the island, Little Bay is an ideal place to watch the sunset and it’s here you’ll find the beach-side Time Out Bar & Restaurant. Offering American favourites (burgers, barbecued ribs, wings etc) – I recommend their fresh Fish ‘n’ Chips. Their bar is one of the few places on the island where you can get a drink in the evening.

The People’s Place

Located south of Brades on Fogarty Hill, you’ll find a local culinary institution, which is housed inside a very simple turquiose-blue shack – The People’s Place. The host (John) prepares great tasting, simple Caribbean fare which is always served with a big smile (his roti are especially good). If you’re in town on Friday, this is the place to try Goat Water – a stew featuring goat meat which is the national dish.

Hilltop Coffee House

The Hilltop Coffee House at Fogarty Hill.

The Hilltop Coffee House at Fogarty Hill.

Directly next door to The People’s Place is the Hilltop Coffee House which is a must for anyone visiting the island. The cafe is a not-for-profit which was founded (and is run by) the energetic David Lea and his wife Clover (who also run the nearby Gingerbread Hill Guesthouse). Clover bakes the best brownies on the island and David brews a mean cup of coffee.

A wall display at the Hilltop Coffee House.

A wall display at the Hilltop Coffee House.

David has turned the cafe into a museum which covers all aspects of life on Montserrat from its musical heritage to the eruption of the Soufrière Hills Volcano (which David filmed and is available for purchase on DVD) to local art and much more.

David is known as Mr Volcano and filmed the entire eruption. You can purchase his DVD – The Price of Paradise – at the coffee-house.

Signs salvaged from Plymouth businesses are displayed at the Hilltop Coffee House.

Signs salvaged from Plymouth businesses are displayed at the Hilltop Coffee House.

An American native, David is very informative and enthusiastic about the island, offering visitors a free tour and explanation of his extensive collection of memorabilia.

If there’s one place on the island from which you can gain an understanding of everything Montserrat, it’s the Hilltop Coffee House.

Olveston House

Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin.

Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin.

If you’re looking for a fine dining experience, you’ll find it at Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin, who purchased the estate in the early 1980’s. For many years, Olveston House hosted famous artists such as Sting, Eric Clapton, Elton John and Paul McCartney who came to Montserrat to record at AIR Studios.

It’s worth excusing yourself to use the toilet while dining here just to view the old black and white photos of Paul and Linda McCartney and John Lennon which line the hallway. Offering Caribbean-infused international cuisine, the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and ‘high tea’ with meals served on the breezy balcony, overlooking the garden.

LIAT Airline

From Olveston House to the Caribbean

If you’re spending anytime travelling around the Eastern Caribbean, there’s a good chance you’ll end up on a flight operated by the region’s dominate carrier – LIAT (Leeward Islands Air Transport). LIAT was founded in the 1950’s by Sir Frank Delisle from neighbouring St. Kitts, who lived at Olveston House and was the Managing Director of the Montserrat Company.

In 1953, the first flight touched down on the airstrip at Olveston House and LIAT airlines was born. Today LIAT serves 17 destinations throughout the region, including Guyana in South America.

The Attic

The Attic cafe serves up tasty local food and has the best homemade ginger beer on the island.

The Attic cafe serves up tasty local food and has the best homemade ginger beer on the island.

Housed in a cute wooden cottage, around the corner from Olveston House, is another local favourite – The Attic. Open for breakfast and lunch only, this cafe serves local fare (I especially recommend the grilled fish with rice and salad) and fresh juices, all of which are made in-house. The homemade ginger beer is especially good – so good I had to order a 2nd glass!

Visa Requirements

The clover leaf is an appropriate passport stamp for the Emerald Isle.

The clover leaf is an appropriate passport stamp for the Emerald Isle.

As a British Overseas Territory, Montserrat maintains its own visa policy, which you can check here.

It’s appropriate that the passport stamp to the Emerald Isle is a green clover leaf.

Getting There

Air

Boarding the FlyMontserrat flight at Antigua airport.

Boarding the FlyMontserrat flight at Antigua airport.

All flights into Montserrat arrive at the small John A. Osborne Airport which is located in the village of Gerald’s. Constructed at a cost of approximately US$18.5 million, the airport was opened in July of 2005 by Princess Anne and was built as a replacement for the former airport – W. H. Bramble – which was completely destroyed in 1997 as a result of the eruption of the Soufrière Hills volcano.

Between 1997 and 2005, Montserrat had only been accessible by helicopter, boat and seaplane.

The terminal at John A. Osborne Airport on Montserrat.

The terminal at John A. Osborne Airport on Montserrat.

The airport has the distinction of being the only one in the Caribbean with a public road tunnel under its runway and is the base for FlyMontserrat Airways which flies three times a day between Montserrat and neighbouring Antigua (the only destination for flights to/from the island), with the 57 km hop taking 20 minutes in nine seater Britten-Norman Islander aircraft.

On final approach to John A Osborne airport, Montserrat.

On final approach to John A Osborne airport, Montserrat.

The following airlines provide services to Montserrat:

Airport Taxes

Antigua Airport is the only gateway for flights to/ from Montserrat and if you’re staying on Antigua more than 24 hours, you will be required to pay an arrival tax of US$37.50 and also a departure tax of US$37.50 (a total of US$75 in taxes!).

Most airlines automatically include these horrendous taxes in their tickets, however FlyMontserrat annoyingly does not!

When you depart for Montserrat from Antigua, you’ll be required to pay the Antigua departure tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.

When departing Montserrat, you’ll be required to pay the Antigua arrival tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.

You’re also required to pay the Montserrat departure tax (cash only) which is EC$45 per person. It would be so much easier if FlyMontserrat followed the example of all other airlines and included these taxes in its tickets.

Sea

The Antigua-Montserrat ferry, Jaden Sun, docked at Little Bay.

The Antigua-Montserrat ferry, Jaden Sun, docked at Little Bay.

A regular ferry service operates five days a week between Port Little Bay in Montserrat and Heritage Quay Pier in Antigua with the 52 km crossing taking 90 minutes on the fast boat – Jaden Sun.

If you ever spent time in Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, you might recognise this boat as being the old inter-island ferry which was once captained by the famous Captain Elvis and connected the Grenadines to the main island of St. Vincent on a daily basis.

I’d always wondered where this boat (which was a lifeline for the Grenadines) had disappeared to and was very surprised to see it in its new role as the Antigua-Montserrat ferry.

An advertisement announces a day trip to neighbouring Guadeloupe on the Jaden Sun.

An advertisement announces a day trip to neighbouring Guadeloupe on the Jaden Sun.

The ferry company also operates occasional charters to neighbouring St. Kitts, Nevis and Guadeloupe. You can view the current schedule and fares on the Montserrat Access Division Facebook page and you can make bookings on this website.

A view of the Jaden Sun, en-route from Antigua to Montserrat, cutting a path across giant Sargassum seaweed blooms.

A view of the Jaden Sun, en-route from Antigua to Montserrat, cutting a path across giant Sargassum seaweed blooms.

Getting Around

Scenic flights over Montserrat can be arranged by helicopter.

Scenic flights over Montserrat can be arranged by helicopter.

Bus

A small fleet of mini-vans shuttle back and forth along the one main road, during daylight hours and to no fixed schedule, stopping wherever required, charging a fare of EC$3.

Taxi

There are approximately 30 taxis on Montserrat, all of whom are easily identifiable by their green license plates beginning with the letter ‘H‘. Taxis are available at the boat dock, airport or can be booked through your accommodation provider. You can view a complete listing of taxi operators on the Visit Montserrat website.

Rental Car

My temporary Monserrat drivers license.

My temporary Monserrat drivers license.

Your best option for exploring Montserrat is to hire a car, most of which are aging 4WD vehicles, which are ideal on the tough island roads. Although none of the international car rental chains are represented, you can organise car hire through your accommodation provider or from the complete list of operators on the Visit Montserrat website.

If driving, you’ll need to purchase a temporary local Drivers License (EC$50/ valid for 90 days) from the immigration officer at the airport (if you’re collecting your car upon arrival) or a police station elsewhere.

It’s easy to know who the tourists are on the island, as all rental vehicles have special red license plates beginning with the letter ‘R‘. The roads are steep, narrow and full of hairpin turns but traffic is light and there are no traffic lights on the island. With just one main road meandering through the northern half of the island, navigation devices are definitely not required.

 


That’s the end of my Montserrat Travel Guide. 

Safe Travels! 

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide Montserrat Travel Guide