Tag - Australia

Western Australia Photo Gallery

A view of the south coast of WA from Conspicuous Cliff.

Western Australia Photo Gallery

This is a Western Australia Photo Gallery.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Cocos (Keeling) Islands Photo Gallery

The frontrunners in the monthly Jukong race on Home Island.

Cocos (Keeling) Islands Photo Gallery

This is a Cocos (Keeling) Islands Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Cocos (Keeling) Islands Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Christmas Island Photo Gallery

The Abbott's booby is only found on Christmas Island.

Christmas Island Photo Gallery

This is a Christmas Island Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Christmas Island Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Christmas Island Travel Guide

Cover Photo: Christmas Island Red Crab.

Christmas Island Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Christmas Island Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2021

Introduction

An emerald-coloured jewel in the Indian Ocean, Christmas Island is a remote, rugged, unspoilt natural paradise.

A relatively young, volcanic island which rises up 5,000 metres from the floor of the Indian Ocean. An island ringed by razor-sharp, limestone cliffs, the result of ancient geological uplifts, which is topped by a high, jungle-clad plateau.

A view of Flying Fish Cove during rough weather.

A view of Flying Fish Cove during rough weather.

Over the course of eons, many unique, endemic creatures have evolved in remote isolation on the island. Christmas Island is a veritable paradise for nature enthusiasts, bird watchers and scuba divers, with an amazing reef system lying just offshore.

The rarest of booby species, Abbott's booby is only found on Christmas Island.

The rarest of booby species, Abbott’s booby is only found on Christmas Island.

Just 100’s of metres offshore, underwater cliffs plunge 1000’s of metres into the abyss, to the floor of the Indian ocean.

With just a few beaches, which consist of tiny patches of coral-sand and shallow, onshore rocky reefs, Christmas Island isn’t a destination for those looking for a beach holiday.

What is lacks in terms of tropical beaches, it more than compensates for with a dazzling array of natural attractions which make this a compelling destination.

A view of the rugged north coast of Christmas Island.

A view of the rugged north coast of Christmas Island.

The island is 19 kilometres (12 mi) in length and 14.5 km (9.0 mi) in breadth, with a total area of 135 square kilometres (52 square miles). Of this, the small population of 1,843 are confined to a small urban settlement, actually called ‘Settlement‘, at the northern tip of the island.

Settlement is divided into three main precincts: Poon Saan, Kampong and Settlement. Each area houses, respectively, the island’s Chinese, Malay and European communities.

An island favourite, a Golden bosun, flying over Flying Fish Cove on Christmas Island.

An island favourite, a Golden bosun, flying over Flying Fish Cove on Christmas Island.

The main draw of the island, the Christmas Island National Park, covers roughly 63% of the total land area. It’s here you’ll encounter landscapes straight from a Jurassic park movie set and the funkiest of creatures.

The Robber crab (aka Coconut crab) is the largest crustacean in the world, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring 1-metre from leg tip to leg tip

The Robber crab (aka Coconut crab) is the largest crustacean in the world, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring 1-metre from leg tip to leg tip

If you dream of exploring a lush, jungle clad volcano which is crawling with millions of Christmas Island red crabs, and the very intimidating-looking Robber crab (aka the Coconut crab), if you dream of observing the rarest of bird species – including Abbott’s booby, which can only be seen on Christmas Island, then you will be rewarded for making the journey to this far-flung corner of the world.

The stars of Christmas Island are the 44 million Christmas Island red crabs.

The stars of Christmas Island are the 44 million Christmas Island red crabs.

Location

Flying Fish Cove Shire of Christmas Island, Christmas Island

Christmas Island is located in the Indian Ocean, 1500 km west of the Australian mainland and 2600 km from Perth.

Although it’s an Australian territory, Christmas Island’s nearest neighbour is Indonesia, which lies 350 km to the north. The distance from Christmas Island to Jakarta is about 500 km.

Its second-nearest neighbour is the Cocos (Keeling) Islands (click to read my travel guide), another Australian territory which is located 985 km to the west.

Geologically, Christmas Island is the peak of a volcanic basalt seamount which rises up 5000-metres from the ocean floor. The island is very young at about 60 million years old.

The result of geological uplift, the coastline of Christmas Island features a series of towering limestone cliffs.

The result of geological uplift, the coastline of Christmas Island features a series of towering limestone cliffs.

Over the course of millions of years, several geological uplifts occurred. At each stage, erosion of the coral reef by the ocean has resulted in cliffs which now form stepped terraces which rise from the sea to the central plateau.

During each uplift, coral reefs built up on the basalt core, creating a limestone cap over the island that remains today. This cap contains rich phosphate deposits which have been mined since 1900 (see the ‘Phosphate Mining‘ section below for more details).

History

Uninhabited, and lying in obscurity for most of its history, Christmas Island was first sighted in 1615 by Richard Rowe, of the Thomas. He laid no claim to the island!

The island was named by Captain William Mynors of the British East India Company, who sailed past it on Christmas day of 1643.

The first Europeans to set foot on the island did so in March of 1688, as part of a landing party travelling with the famed English navigator, William Dampier. It was during his visit to the island that Dampier investigated the sea around the island, however no settlement was established.

The first attempt at exploring the rugged island took place in 1857, when the crew of the Amethyst tried to reach the island’s summit but found the steep cliffs to be impassable.

In 1886, Captain John Maclear of HMS Flying Fish, discovered a safe anchorage in a bay which he named Flying Fish Cove. While on the island, a landing party gathered a small collection of flora and fauna from the island.

A year later, Pelham Aldrich, on board HMS Egeria, visited the island for 10 days, during which time his crew gathered a larger biological and mineralogical collection. The British naturalist, John Murray analysed the mineral specimens and found that they were nearly pure phosphate.

In 1888, the island was annexed by Great Britain and the first settlement was established at Flying Fish Cove by George Clunies-Ross, the owner of Cocos (Keeling) Islands (click to read my Travel Guide), which lie 900 km to the south-west.

Britain granted a 99-year lease to George Clunies-Ross and John Murray, to mine phosphate and harvest timber. Mining commenced in 1899, using indentured labourers from Singapore, Malaysia and China. Eventually, Ross and Murray established the Christmas Island Phosphate Company, Ltd.

In 1900, the island was incorporated into the British colony of the Straits Settlements, which was administered from Singapore.

During WWII, the Japanese, who desired the island’s rich phosphate reserves, occupied the island from the 31st of March 1942 until it was liberated in October of 1945. During this time, much of the population was sent to POW camps in Surabaya (Indonesia).

Christmas Island was managed from Singapore until 1958, when Britain, at Australia’s request, transferred control to Australia. At the time, the decision to hand the island to Australia was hugely unpopular in Singapore and resulted in the Chief Minister, Lim Yew Hock, losing the 1959 General election. This ushered in a new era for Singapore – under the visionary leadership of Lee Kuan Yew!

Today, Christmas Island is a territory of Australia, and is administered as a shire of Western Australia.

People

Artwork on the wall of the Chinese Cultural Heritage Museum in Settlement. Two-thirds of the population of Christmas Island claim Straits-Chinese ancestry.

Artwork on the wall of the Chinese Cultural Heritage Museum in Settlement. Two-thirds of the population of Christmas Island claim Straits-Chinese ancestry.

From the beginning of the 20th century until 1957, Christmas Island was a British colony, administered by Singapore. Many of the Chinese and Malays which inhabit the island today trace their ancestry back to the days of Singaporean administration.

As of the 2016 Australian census, Christmas Island had a population of 1,843 with almost everyone living on the northern tip of the island. At the time of the census, the most common ancestries were Chinese, Malay and Australian, with around two-thirds of the island’s population estimated to have Straits-Chinese ancestry.

Of the three population centres, Settlement is home to many of the Australian ex-pats, Kampong is home to the Malays, while the Chinese dominate the plateau neighbourhood of Poon Saan.

Public Housing

Singaporean HDB-style housing in Kampong.

Singaporean HDB-style housing in Kampong.

When I first arrived on the island, one of the things that struck me was how much the public housing looked like HDB housing in Singapore.

There is good reason for this! Almost all of the public housing on the island was built by the Singapore Improvement Trust, the predecessor of the current Housing and Development Board, during Singapore’s period of administration.

Wildlife

A juvenile Abbott's booby on Christmas Island.

A juvenile Abbott’s booby on Christmas Island.

 

Due to its isolated location, many species found on Christmas Island are endemic and, due to their small number, listed as endangered. Of the bird species, Christmas Island is home to the rarest of the six species of booby birds – Abbott’s booby – which can only be found on Christmas Island.

Likewise, the rarest of frigate birds – the Christmas Island frigatebird, can only be found on Christmas Island.

Birds

Golden bosun

A magical sight, a Golden bosun soaring over Flying Fish Cove.

A magical sight, a Golden bosun soaring over Flying Fish Cove.

A sub-species of the White-tailed tropicbird, the Golden bosun is an icon of Christmas Island, appearing on the territorial flag.

While the White-tailed tropicbird can be found on many tropical islands around the world (one is featured on the cover of my Bermuda Travel Guide), the Golden bosun is endemic to Christmas Island.

The best place to view the Golden bosun is from the Territory Day park lookout, the lookout at the Golf course or from the streets of Settlement.

Abbott’s booby

A juvenile Abbott's booby on Christmas Island.

A juvenile Abbott’s booby on Christmas Island.

A highlight of Christmas Island is the chance to observe the rarest of all booby species – Abbott’s booby. Originally discovered by American naturalist, William Louis Abbott, in 1892, Abbott’s booby is the only booby restricted to a single location, although its former distribution covered much of the Indian and Pacific Oceans.

A threatened species, Christmas Island is the only place where the Abbott’s booby nests, with the island supporting an estimated 3,000 breeding pairs.

Red-footed booby

A Red-footed booby on Christmas Island.

A Red-footed booby on Christmas Island.

No prizes for guessing where this bird gets its name from!

With its conspicuous red feet and pale-blue bill, the noisy Red-footed booby is easily spotted as it perches in trees around the island, with many seeming to enjoy perching next to the roadside.

A curious Red-footed booby on Christmas Island.

A curious Red-footed booby on Christmas Island.

A good place to see the Red-footed booby is along the road which leads to Ethel and Lily beach, where you’ll hear them before you see them!

Unlike Brown boobies, who are ground dwellers, the Red-footed booby prefers to live and nest in trees. Christmas Island is home to an estimated 12,000 breeding pairs.

Brown booby

A not-so-shy juvenile Brown booby on the boardwalk at the blow holes.

A not-so-shy juvenile Brown booby on the boardwalk at the blow holes.

I first photographed the Brown booby on the Cayman Islands while island hopping through the Caribbean. I’ve since had the opportunity to photograph this adorable booby on many other tropical islands.

Unlike the Abbott’s and Red-footed booby, the Brown booby prefers to nest on the ground and is easily spotted around the blow holes on the remote south coast.

During my visit, one juvenile Brown booby had decided to take up residence on the blow holes boardwalk – right next to one of the sitting benches! Typical behaviour for this gregarious species of booby.

Great Frigatebird

A male Great frigatebird, with a deflated red gular sac, on Christmas Island.

A male Great frigatebird, with a deflated red gular sac, on Christmas Island.

Christmas Island is home to the widely distributed Great frigatebird and the endemic Christmas Island frigatebird.

The male Great frigatebird is easily recognisable thanks to its striking red gular sac which it uses to dramatic effect during mating rituals when it forces air into it, inflating it like a huge red balloon.

A Great frigatebird on Christmas Island, chasing a Golden bosun for its catch.

A Great frigatebird on Christmas Island, chasing a Golden bosun for its catch.

A peculiar feeding habit of the frigatebird is that it doesn’t dive for its own food, but rather chases other seabirds, forcing them to regurgitate their catch which the frigatebird then steals. A real pirate of the seas!

A male Great frigatebird, with an inflated red gular sac, flying over Christmas Island.

A male Great frigatebird, with an inflated red gular sac, flying over Christmas Island.

On Christmas Island, the frigatebird can be seen chasing the Golden bosun and various booby birds, all of whom are expert fish divers.

Frigatebirds flying over Flying fish Cove on Christmas Island.

Frigatebirds flying over Flying fish Cove on Christmas Island.

Christmas Island Frigatebird

A juvenile Christmas Island Frigatebird on Christmas Island.

A juvenile Christmas Island Frigatebird on Christmas Island.

An endangered species, the Christmas Island Frigatebird can be seen flying over Settlement and Flying Fish Cove. The world’s rarest frigatebird, there are an estimated 1,200 breeding pairs on Christmas Island.

Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon

A Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon feeding off the fruit of a papaya tree.

A Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon feeding off the fruit of a papaya tree.

Endemic to Christmas Island, the Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon is one of only two fruit-eating animals on the island, the other being the Christmas Island flying fox.

With a breeding population estimated to be around 5,000 – this beautiful pigeon, which features purple and green plumage, inhabits the plateau region of the island, feeding in the forest canopy or anywhere else fruit trees can be found.

A Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon, in the Christmas Island National Park.

A Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon, in the Christmas Island National Park.

Although often heard, with their distinct cooing sound ringing out over island neighbourhoods, the Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon is often hard to find. At about twice the size of a regular domestic pigeon, this imperial pigeon spends most of its time hidden away in the high forest canopy.

The favoured habitat for the Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon is the evergreen inland plateau, and it was here, after much searching, I happened upon a large flock of them feeding on the fruit of several isolated papaya trees.

Christmas Island Thrush

A sub-species of thrush, the Christmas Island Thrush is endemic to Christmas Island.

A sub-species of thrush, the Christmas Island Thrush is endemic to Christmas Island.

Another endemic species, the Christmas Island Thrush is easily spotted on Christmas Island, where it feeds off the ground, mainly eating insects, seeds and earthworms.

While they are plentiful on the island, due to its limited area of distribution, the Christmas Island Thrush is listed as endangered.

Feral Chickens

Feral chickens surround my rental car on Christmas Island.

Feral chickens surround my rental car on Christmas Island.

One other bird which deserves a special mention is the feral chicken. Introduced to islands around the world by early sailors, Christmas Island is home to a countless number of feral chickens.

While they can be observed all over the island, scratching around in the rich volcanic soil, one place where they seem to be especially prolific is in the cemetery section of the island, just north of Settlement.

Crabs

Christmas Island Red Crab

The star of the show! The famous and iconic, Christmas Island red crab, is endemic to the island, and rules over it, with a population of 44 million occupying most parts of the island.

The Christmas Island red crab is a very common sight on Christmas Island where they number around 44 million.

The Christmas Island red crab is a very common sight on Christmas Island where they number around 44 million.

It’s hard to walk anywhere without looking out for these red critters who always seem to be scurrying around your feet. Driving on the island also requires attention as you need to keep an eye out for the numerous crabs which seem to love dawdling across the roads.

A road sign in Settlement indicates road closures during the Red Crab migration season.

A road sign in Settlement indicates road closures during the Red Crab migration season.

For most of the year, red crabs can be found within Christmas Islands’ forests. However, at the beginning of each wet season (usually October/November), the crabs migrate en masse to the coast where they breed by laying their eggs in the ocean. During this time some of the roads on the island are closed to traffic.

A unique piece of infrastructure! The Christmas Island red crab bridge allows crabs to cross this road safely.

A unique piece of infrastructure! The Christmas Island red crab bridge allows crabs to cross this road safely.

This migration was made famous by Sir David Attenborough who featured it in one of his epic documentaries. He described it as one of the “ten greatest natural wonders on Earth”.

My rental car, waiting for a Christmas Island red crab to cross the road.

My rental car, waiting for a Christmas Island red crab to cross the road.

Due to the huge numbers of red crabs on the island, some unique infrastructure has been developed by Parks Australia to help protect them.

This includes a red crab bridge, which is located on Murray road, just beyond the island’s only high school. The road is used by phosphate mining trucks which necessitated a higher bridge, with a clearance of 5.5 metres. Quite a climb for the little crabs!

Metal barriers line the roads inside Christmas Island National Park, preventing red crabs from meandering onto the road.

Metal barriers line the roads inside Christmas Island National Park, preventing red crabs from meandering onto the road.

Inside the National Park (which covers most of the island), Parks Australia have constructed small, metal barriers which run alongside the road, preventing the crabs from entering the road.

How are they to cross the road?

Cattle grids on an island with no cows! Grids on Christmas Island allow for red crabs to pass safely under the road.

Cattle grids on an island with no cows! Grids on Christmas Island allow for red crabs to pass safely under the road.

On an island where there are no cows, it’s strange to be passing over so many cattle grids. The grids have been installed to allow the crabs to pass safely under the road, with the metal barriers herding the crabs into tunnels which pass under the grids.

On Christmas Island, it’s all about the crabs and rightly so!

Christmas Island red crabs, feasting on a recently fallen mango.

Christmas Island red crabs, feasting on a recently fallen mango.

While the Christmas Island red crabs have no predators, they are under attack from the yellow crazy ant which was accidentally introduced to the island from South-east Asia. The ant is believed to have killed 10–15 million red crabs in the last years.

Christmas Island Blue Crab

A Christmas Island blue crab, hiding in his burrow near Hughs Dale waterfall.

A Christmas Island blue crab, hiding in his burrow near Hughs Dale waterfall.

One of my favourite creatures on Christmas Island is the Christmas Island blue crab. Endemic to the island, and found in only one small area, this shy and elusive, sky-blue, crab can be found in the fresh water stream which flows down from Hughs Dale waterfall.

Reliant on fresh water, and living off a diet of fallen leaves and fruits, the blue crab builds its burrow alongside the stream and can often be found submerged in the stream itself, where it keeps cool during the heat of the day.

Coconut Crab (aka Robber Crab)

A robber crab on an asphalt road on Christmas Island. You always give way to these giants when they're crossing the road.

A robber crab on an asphalt road on Christmas Island. You always give way to these giants when they’re crossing the road.

The truly massive, Coconut crab, which is known on Christmas Island as the Robber crab, is the world’s biggest land crustacean. Adult crabs can weigh up to 4 kg and measure 1 metre across, from each tip to tip of the leg.

The Robber crab is capable of climbing the trunk of the coconut tree to select a coconut and cut it free using its pinchers. Its claws are so powerful it can remove the husk from the coconuts. The Robber crab uses coconut husk as bedding in its burrow.

The name Robber crab has existed for centuries and refers its habit of carrying off any foreign items it comes across. It especially likes shiny objects!

A Robber crab climbing out of the Blue grotto on the north coast of Christmas Island.

A Robber crab climbing out of the Blue grotto on the north coast of Christmas Island.

My first encounter with a Robber crab was while I was photographing, the much smaller, Christmas Island Red crabs inside the Blue grotto on the island’s north coast.

Out of the corner of my eye, climbing slowly up a rock face, I noticed something truly bizarre – a huge, colossal, and terrifying looking, creature, the likes of which I had never seen before. This was something that could have played a starring role in a science fiction film.

It was my first sighting of a Robber crab and, during my 8 days on Christmas Island, I had the pleasure of seeing many more of these gentle giants.

Often while walking along lonely jungle trails on Christmas Island, Robber crabs can be seen lurking menacingly in the bushes. They are however completely harmless!

I once saw a local expat stop his car and pick a Robber crab up, holding it carefully by its large abdomen, removing it from the road, placing it out of harm’s way in some nearby bushes.

A road sign on Christmas Island, where the Robber crab is protected.

A road sign on Christmas Island, where the Robber crab is protected.

Christmas Island has the world’s largest and best protected population of Robber crabs, with road signs on the island reminding motorists to drive around them.

While the crabs were once distributed on islands throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans, hunting by humans has resulted in the crab becoming extinct in certain locations. Where they do exist, they are often much smaller since adults are killed for their meat.

Thanks to their protected status, the crabs are thriving on Christmas Island and often grow to their full (enormous) adult size.

A robber crab crossing the road on Christmas Island.

A robber crab crossing the road on Christmas Island.

The crabs on Christmas Island can be found on the highest points of the island and live in burrows which they line with fibres from coconut husks which is used as bedding.

Robber crabs can be seen on most parts of the island, where they forage for food on the floor of the forest. They are most easily spotted while crossing the road and can even be seen climbing trees. The crabs are considered one of the most terrestrial-adapted of crustaceans and will actually drown if they spend too long in sea water.

Despite their intimidating looks, they are not threatening and are very gentle and, at times, comical.

Reptiles

The tiny, Blue-tailed skink, is endemic to Christmas Island.

The tiny, Blue-tailed skink, is endemic to Christmas Island.

Blue-tailed skink

Endemic to Christmas Island, and once found all over the island, this tiny skink had almost become extinct as a result of introduced predators, who ravaged the population.

Thanks to a captive breeding program, which is being conducted by Parks Australia, at their Pink House Research Station, these skinks are making a slow recovery.

You can join one of their lizard feeding tours by registering through the Christmas Island Visitor Centre.

One place where the lizards have been successfully re-introduced back into the wild is on Pulu Blan, on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. You can visit Pulu Blan as part of a Motorised Canoe tour, which are conducted by Ash and Kylie of Cocos Islands Adventure Tours.

Flag

The flag of Christmas Island.

The flag of Christmas Island.

The flag of Christmas Island, which was officially adopted in 2002, consists of a green and blue background, split diagonally, with the blue representing the sea while the green represents the land.

The Southern Cross constellation appears in the bottom left corner, while the top right corner features a Golden bosun bird in flight. At the centre, a golden disc features a map of the island in green.

The flag was originally designed in 1986, following a competition which offered a prize of A$100! The design was created by Tony Couch of Sydney, who had formerly been resident on the island.

Currency

https://www.taste2travel.com/cocos-keeling-islands-travel-guide/

The Australian dollar is the official currency of Christmas Island.

The official currency of Christmas Island is the Australian dollar (A$), which trades under the international currency code of AUD.

Having the distinction of being the world’s first polymer currency, the dollar is issued in bank notes of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 and is divided into 100 cents (c), with coins being issued in denominations of 5c, 10c, 20c and 50c, $1 and $2.

All bank notes are printing in Melbourne by Note Printing Australia (a division of the Reserve Bank of Australia), who also print polymer bank notes for Central banks around the globe.

Like mainland Australia, most transactions on Christmas Island are cashless with credit cards being widely accepted.

To check the current exchange rate between the Australian dollar and the US dollar, click here.

Banking Services

The Westpac bank branch on Christmas Island.

The Westpac bank branch on Christmas Island.

Westpac are the only bank to maintain a branch on Christmas Island, although there is no ATM available. The adjacent post office acts as an agent for all other Australian banks and is able to provide cash advances.

There are no ATMs on Christmas Island.

Costs

With the exception of duty-free alcohol, Christmas Island isn’t a cheap destination with everything imported from Australia. Air freight charges add an additional A$9 per kilo to everything with a lettuce at the supermarket fetching A$18!

Like neighbouring Cocos (Keeling) Islands, the two major expenses are flights and accommodation, with the latter being slightly cheaper on Christmas Island.

Some sample costs:

  • Return Virgin Australia airfare to Christmas Island from Perth: $A1,100 (US$842)
  • Room (per night) at CI Apartments: A$160 (US$123)
  • Cappuccino/ Cafè latte at Smash Cafe: $A5 (US$3.80)
  • Bottle of beer at the Golden Bosun tavern: $A6 (US$4.60)
  • Eggs on Toast at Smash Cafe: $A17 (US$13)
  • Chinese dinner at Lucky Ho restaurant: $A30 (US$23)
  • Car Rental with Kiat Car Rental (per day): $A65 (US$50)
  • 1 litre of petrol: $A2.28 (US$1.75)

Philately

The stamps of Christmas Island feature the rich fauna and flora of the island.

The stamps of Christmas Island feature the rich fauna and flora of the island.

Christmas Island issues its own stamps which are produced by Australia Post. Stamps feature the fauna and flora of the island and also include subjects relevant to the local (mainly Chinese) community, with Chinese New Year stamps being a popular issue.

Christmas Island stamps featuring views from the National Park.

Christmas Island stamps featuring views from the National Park.

Like neighbouring Cocos (Keeling) Islands, the number of stamp issues produced each year has been dramatically reduced. Stamps can be purchased from the one post office on Christmas Island or online from the Australia Post website.

The Christmas Island post office.

The Christmas Island post office.

Phosphate Mining

A view of the (beige-coloured) Phosphate storage sheds and the cantilever on Christmas Island.

A view of the (beige-coloured) Phosphate storage sheds and the cantilever on Christmas Island.

Introduction

Occupational Health & Safety (OH&S) is taken very seriously in Australia, so it’s not surprising that the phosphate mines on Christmas Island are strictly off-limits to visitors.

What can be seen are the conveyors, which transport the phosphate down the cliff face from the central plateau, to the port, and the cantilever which is used to load the phosphate onto export ships.

Like Christmas Island, phosphate mining has also been an important export earner for the Pacific island nation of Nauru, an island which is a lot more casual about mine access, with mines operating openly by the side of the road on Topside (Nauru’s phosphate-rich plateau).

Some of the text in this section has been extracted from my Nauru Travel Guide which includes a more detailed section on phosphate mining, including photos of the mining process.

Apart from phosphate, the two islands also share something else in common – they both host an Australian Refugee Detention Centre.

What is Phosphate?

Blackened limestone rocks, such as these on the plateau at Christmas Island, are the tell-tale sign of a former Phosphate mine.

Blackened limestone rocks, such as these on the plateau at Christmas Island, are the tell-tale sign of a former Phosphate mine.

Phosphorite, or phosphate rock, is a sedimentary rock that contains high amounts of phosphate minerals. The two main sources for phosphate are guano, formed from bird droppings, and rocks containing concentrations of the calcium phosphate mineral.

Christmas Island’s phosphate deposits are the result of thousands of years of bird droppings. Guano is a highly effective fertiliser due to its exceptionally high content of all three key fertiliser ingredients – nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

Following the discovery of processes which allow for the creation of synthetic fertilisers, the demand for naturally occurring phosphates has declined.

How is Phosphate Used?

Phosphate is one of three key ingredients which are used in fertilisers. Normally, fertilisers are labelled with an ‘N-P-K’ rating, with phosphate being the ‘P’ component; nitrogen being the ‘N’ and potassium being the ‘K’.

An NPK value of ’10-5-5′ means that the fertiliser contains 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphate and 5% potassium.

Phosphate is a key component for plant food and plants are key for human survival.

Phosphate on Christmas Island

Phosphate was first discovered on Christmas Island by a British expedition which arrived on the island in 1887. The purpose of the expedition was to collect plant and animal specimens. It was during the expedition that rich reserves of phosphate were discovered. This led the British to annex Christmas Island in 1888, to claim its valuable phosphate deposits.

The British offered George Clunies Ross, the owner of the neighbouring Cocos (Keeling) Islands and John Murray a joint 99-year lease in return for a small royalty. They began exporting phosphate in 1895, establishing the Christmas Island Phosphate Company in 1897. The first major shipment of phosphate was exported in 1900.

The proceeds from phosphate mining proved to be much more lucrative for the Clunies-Ross family than the proceeds from their Copra operation on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

As there was no Indigenous population on Christmas Island, a workforce had to be imported from Europe, Singapore, China and Malaysia. Working conditions in the early days were appalling with an estimated 500 Chinese workers dying in the first 5 years due to vitamin deficiencies.

During WWII, the island came under attack from the Japanese who wanted to disrupt shipments of phosphate. In 1948, the Australian and New Zealand Governments purchased the Christmas Island Phosphate Company which they worked in partnership with the British Phosphate Commissioners.

Due to dwindling reserves, a decision was made to close the mine in 1987. With the island’s main employer shutdown, locals were not happy.

In 1990 the mine was purchased by local union workers (many of whom used their own savings to fund a feasibility study) and reopened as Christmas Island Phosphates.

Since 1990, Phosphate Resources Limited (now a part of CI Resources – ASX: CII) has operated the mine, which has since been granted a license to continue mining until 2034. The main market for CI phosphate is South-East Asia.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing on Christmas Island is all about the incredible fauna and flora, which can be observed on every inch of the island, but especially inside the boundaries of the Christmas Island National Park which covers two-thirds of the island. Within the small populated area of the island are a few man-made sights of interest.

This sightseeing section starts with sights around Settlement, then radiates out to cover each section of the island.

Flying Fish Cove

A view of Flying Fish Cove in the foreground with The Settlement in the background, the main population centre on Christmas Island.

A view of Flying Fish Cove in the foreground with The Settlement in the background, the main population centre on Christmas Island.

The first settlement on Christmas Island was established by George Clunies-Ross, the owner of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands at Flying Fish Cove in 1898.

Flying Fish Cove is the one beach on Christmas Island which allows swimming - but only on calm days.

Flying Fish Cove is the one beach on Christmas Island which allows swimming – but only on calm days.

While the coastline of Christmas Island is almost entirely fortified by towering, razor-sharp, limestone cliffs, Flying Fish Cove offers the only break in this line of defence, making it the only reasonable landing site on the island.

A view of Flying Fish Cove from the Territory Day park lookout.

A view of Flying Fish Cove from the Territory Day park lookout.

Flying Fish Cove is also home to one of the few beaches on the island, which is very exposed and only safe for swimming in calm weather.

Christmas Island Port

A container ship being unloaded at sea at Christmas Island port.

A container ship being unloaded at sea at Christmas Island port.

Flying Fish Cove is one of the main centres of activity on Christmas Island, being home to the only port, post office, bank and the administrative buildings for the IOT (Indian Ocean Territories of Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands).

Port facilities are a real issue for the island at the moment. With almost everything being imported on one container ship, it’s critical that the ship is able to arrive and unload on schedule.

At the time of my visit, in March of 2020, the ship that was due in December of 2019 still had not been able to land any containers due to rough seas.

The following day, the ship arrived and was able to offload 15 containers, one at a time, onto a barge, which then transferred them to the shore where a crane lifted them onto the dock.

Shipping containers at Christmas Island are offloaded onto barges and then transported to shore.

Shipping containers at Christmas Island are offloaded onto barges and then transported to shore.

Of the 100 containers scheduled to be ‘landed’, only 15 made it ashore before a cyclone warning and increasingly rough seas meant the ship had to return to the Australian mainland. It would be seven weeks before the ship would return to continue offloading the cargo which was due in December. This included the islands’ supply of aviation fuel, which had just run out!

Locals told me that they had Christmas presents waiting to be offloaded in one of the containers. Another container, which had been packed with fresh produce in December, had to be dumped since its contents were completely spoilt. Meanwhile, the supermarkets on the island have bare shelves and desperately wait for containers to be landed.

Masjid At-Taqwa

Located in Kampong, the Masjid At-Taqwa is the one mosque on Christmas Island.

Located in Kampong, the Masjid At-Taqwa is the one mosque on Christmas Island.

Lining the cove is the small village of Kampong which is home to a predominately Malaysian (Muslim) population who live in Singapore-built HDB-style housing.

It is here that the one mosque on the island, the Masjid At-Taqwa, and two Malaysian restaurants, are located.

Tai Jin House

<i>Tai Jin house</i> is the former Administrator's House, a heritage-listed former official residence and now the Christmas Island museum.

Tai Jin house is the former Administrator’s House, a heritage-listed former official residence and now the Christmas Island museum.

Located atop a sea cliff beyond Flying Fish Cove, the historic Tai Jin house once served as the residence of the British Administrator of Christmas Island.

A museum display at Tai Jin house.

A museum display at Tai Jin house.

With the current administrator living in Settlement, Tai Jin house is today used as a function centre for official ceremonies and houses the island’s only museum on its 1st floor.

The museum tells the story of the development of Christmas Island and is the best place to gain an understanding of the history of the island from its early discovery and European settlement in 1898 to the present.

WWII Gun Emplacement

The WWII gun emplacement on Christmas Island.

The WWII gun emplacement on Christmas Island.

The island’s rich phosphate deposits and strategic location made it a target for the Japanese during World War II. In order to defend the island, a gun emplacement was established on a cliff, overlooking the Indian Ocean, a short walk from Tai Jin House.

SIEV 221 Memorial

The SIEV 221 memorial on Christmas Island.

The SIEV 221 memorial on Christmas Island.

Located on the grounds of Tai Jin house is a memorial which commemorates those who lost their lives in the sinking of the asylum seeker boat, known as SIEV 221.

On the 15th of December 2010, a boat carrying around 90 asylum seekers, mostly from Iraq and Iran, sank off the coast of Christmas Island, killing 48 people while 42 survivors were rescued.

This tragic incident took place in front of the residents of Settlement, with the flimsy, wooden, Indonesian boat being smashed up against the limestone cliffs at Rocky Point. Settlement sits atop these sea cliffs with access to the sea near impossible, however locals were able to throw life jackets and other floatation devices into the water.

Shocking video images of the disaster were broadcast around the world. The boat was later named SIEV-221 by the Australian authorities who use SIEV as an operational term meaning “Suspected Irregular Entry Vessel“.

The memorial plaque reads:

“We will reflect on this day with sadness. The loss of each person`s life diminishes our own because we are part of humankind.

As you read this please remember all asylum seekers who have attempted this treacherous journey.”

Settlement

The coast at Settlement is lined with razor-sharp limestone cliffs.

The coast at Settlement is lined with razor-sharp limestone cliffs.

The main town centre on Christmas Island, Settlement is home to a supermarket, the one pub on the island, the one police station, a few accommodation options, a couple of dive shops, the Chinese Cultural centre and a Chinese temple.

It’s also home to Wild Papaya which offers the one good shopping opportunity on the island (see the ‘Shopping‘ section below for more details).

A whale shark, frigatebirds, a booby and more feature on a newly installed, community-made, tile mosaic in the park in Settlement.

A whale shark, frigatebirds, a booby and more feature on a newly installed, community-made, tile mosaic in the park in Settlement.

Chinese Cultural and Heritage Museum

Displays at the Chinese Cultural and Heritage Museum in Settlement, on Christmas Island.

Displays at the Chinese Cultural and Heritage Museum in Settlement, on Christmas Island.

Christmas Island has a long history of settlement by the Chinese, who first arrived on the island as indentured labourers to work in the phosphate mines.

Located in a small house, opposite the CLA restaurant in Settlement, the one-room Chinese Cultural and Heritage Museum includes displays which highlight the cultural heritage of the Chinese who have been instrumental in the development of Christmas Island.

Access during the day is free, with the museum normally unattended.

Tai Pak Kong Temple

Tai Pak Kong Temple serves the Chinese community at Settlement on Christmas Island.

Tai Pak Kong Temple serves the Chinese community at Settlement on Christmas Island.

With two-thirds of the population of Christmas Island being Straits-Chinese, there are a number of Buddhist temples spread around the island. Located in the heart of Settlement, Tai Pak Kong Temple serves the local Chinese population.

Located adjacent to the temple is Wild Papaya, a great place to shop for local arts and crafts.

European Cemetery

The original European cemetery on Christmas Island.

The original European cemetery on Christmas Island.

The first European cemetery on Christmas Island is located on an overgrown hill behind the Westpac bank in Settlement.

The last person to be buried here was a young sailor whose dead body was recovered from a Royal Australian Navy life raft which drifted ashore on the 6th of February 1942.

It is believed the sailor was from the HMAS Sydney which was sunk off the coast of Geraldton, Western Australia in November of 1941, after a battle with a German cruiser. The unknown body was buried in the cemetery in an unmarked grave.

Chinese Cemetery

A gravestone at the Chinese cemetery on Christmas Island.

A gravestone at the Chinese cemetery on Christmas Island.

Located north of Settlement, along Gaze road, is a large Chinese cemetery.

Muslim Cemetery

Gravestones at the Muslim cemetery on Christmas Island.

Gravestones at the Muslim cemetery on Christmas Island.

Directly across the road from the Chinese cemetery is a Muslim cemetery which seems to be a favourite locale for a large number of feral chickens.

Christmas Island National Park

The Christmas Island National Park occupies most of Christmas Island.

The Christmas Island National Park occupies most of Christmas Island.

Managed by Parks Australia, the Christmas Island National park protects 2/3 of the land area of Christmas Island, ensuring the numerous endemic creatures, which call the island home, are fully protected and that the pristine jungles remain untouched.

As part of their management, the enthusiastic team of volunteers at Parks Australia offer two free weekly sessions for visitors, the feeding of orphan booby chicks at the headquarters of Parks Australia and a lizard feeding session at the Pink House.

National Park Headquarters – Bird Feeding

An Abbott's booby chick being fed at the National Park bird orphanage.

An Abbott’s booby chick being fed at the National Park bird orphanage.

If you’re a keen ornithophile, you should not miss the weekly bird feeding session which is conducted by volunteers at the National Park headquarters, each Wednesday at 3 pm.

During the session, volunteers feed orphaned Booby chicks. During my visit, all three species were present – Abbott’s, Brown and Red-footed.

This is a free activity, but bookings must be made in advance at the Christmas Island Visitors Centre.

Pink House – Lizard Feeding

The Lizard Lounge at the Pink House is home to the endemic Blue-tailed skink and Lister's gecko.

The Lizard Lounge at the Pink House is home to the endemic Blue-tailed skink and Lister’s gecko.

Hidden away in the middle of the jungle is the Pink House Research Station which is home to a breeding program, run by Parks Australia, whose aim is to rehabilitate the dwindling populations of two endemic lizards, the blue tail skink and Lister’s gecko. Both species have been decimated, following the accidental introduction to the island of the Yellow crazy ant from South-East Asia.

The program has been a success with the blue tail skink being introduced into the wild on tiny Pulu Blan on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

If you wish to view the lizards, you can join the weekly feeding session which is conducted every Wednesday at 1 pm.

This is a free activity, but bookings must be made in advance at the Christmas Island Visitors Centre.

North-east Coast

The Blue Grotto

The Blue grotto is located on the North coast of Christmas Island.

The Blue grotto is located on the North coast of Christmas Island.

Located at the end of a short walking trail on the north-east coast, the Blue Grotto is a magical place where large, dripping limestone rocks hang decoratively over an azure-blue pool of half-fresh, half-salt crystalline water.

Lily Beach

A view of Lily beach on Christmas Island.

A view of Lily beach on Christmas Island.

While most of the 80 kilometres (50 miles) of shoreline on Christmas Island is inaccessible, there are a few places where a break in the limestone cliffs provides access to the sea. Swimming however is hardly ideal with most beaches full of rocky, sharp limestone boulders.

One beach popular with locals is tiny Lily beach, which allows for a little paddling, in a small protected pool, during high tide. Beyond the rocks, the deeper water is normally too rough for swimming with currents waiting to carry you away.

A boardwalk connects Lily beach to Ethel beach.

A boardwalk connects Lily beach to Ethel beach.

A boardwalk from Lily beach leads around the headland to neighbouring Ethel beach.

Ethel Beach

A view of the coral-sand Ethel beach, which is submerged at high tide.

A view of the coral-sand Ethel beach, which is submerged at high tide.

Located on the north-east coast, a short distance from Lily beach, Ethel beach offers a narrow stretch of coarse coral-sand which is fully submerged at high tide.

South Coast

Blowholes

A view of the many blowholes, which line the remote south coast of Christmas Island.

A view of the many blowholes, which line the remote south coast of Christmas Island.

Located on the remote, isolated, south coast, at the end of a rough gravel track, are the magnificent blowholes.

Towards the end of the track, a sign recommends that anyone not driving a 4WD, not to proceed beyond the hilltop carpark. From the carpark, a steep track descends through a dark, overgrown, pre-historic, jungle which is home to enormous Tahitian chestnut trees, whose many buttress roots are alive with thousands of scurrying red crabs. This is the stuff of Indiana Jones!

At the bottom of the decent, the jungle opens up to a thin strip of pandanus trees which protects the jungle vegetation from the harsh sea elements.

Beyond this thin line of defence, the coast is lined with the sharpest of limestone rocks, which plunge into the sea. The entire coastline is comprised of an unbroken line of towering, razor-like, limestone sea cliffs.

An excellent boardwalk at the blowholes allows visitors to pass over the razor-sharp limestone foreshore.

An excellent boardwalk at the blowholes allows visitors to pass over the razor-sharp limestone foreshore.

An elevated boardwalk allows visitors to pass over this, otherwise impassable, landscape where numerous blowholes can be viewed. The best time to visit is during high tide, when giant waves are forced through holes in the underlying rock, making a tremendous noise as the water exits, shooting skywards.

A Brown booby on the boardwalk at the blowholes.

A Brown booby on the boardwalk at the blowholes.

The area around the blowholes is a popular nesting site for Brown boobies. During my visit, one, very social, Brown booby had taken up residence on the boardwalk, sitting right next to one of the sitting benches.

South Point

The <i>Soon Tien Kong Temple</i> at South Point is the only active reminder of the once thriving community which once lived here.

The Soon Tien Kong Temple at South Point is the only active reminder of the once thriving community which once lived here.

Today, there is nothing much at lonely South Point, which lies at the end of a long, gravel road, 20-kilometres (12.5-miles) from Settlement.

While today it is an empty, overgrown corner of the island, in former times it was the Island’s most significant residential area, home to a thriving community from 1914 to 1974.

The area around South Point was the main source of phosphate for decades, with a rail line connecting the community to the rest of the island on the north coast.

The abandoned railway station at South Point.

The abandoned railway station at South Point.

When the South Point ore deposits were approaching exhaustion, the upper Poon Saan residential area was built to house people who were relocated from South Point. Once relocation was completed, the South Point residential area was almost totally cleared so that the ground beneath could be mined.

Demolition of South Point was completed in 1977. Due to the demolition, little remains if this once thriving community. What can be seen today are the remains of the South Point railway station and the (still active) Soon Tien Kong Buddhist temple.

West Coast

Hughs Dale Waterfall

A view of Hughs Dale waterfall on Christmas Island.

A view of Hughs Dale waterfall on Christmas Island.

The Dales area is the highlight of the uninhabited West coast. A series of forested ravines which plunge towards the coast, the dales are the one place on Christmas Island where fresh water flows all year round.

The boardwalk to Hughs Dale waterfall on Christmas Island.

The boardwalk to Hughs Dale waterfall on Christmas Island.

These rain-forested ravines are home to towering Tahitian chestnut trees and the adorable, but very shy, Christmas Island blue crabs, who are dependent on a constant supply of fresh-water.

A Christmas Island blue crab, hiding in his burrow near Hughs Dale waterfall.

A Christmas Island blue crab, hiding in his burrow near Hughs Dale waterfall.

The Hughs Dale track is a raised boardwalk that leads to the Hughs Dale waterfall which flows all year round. Beyond the Hughs Dale track, a rough, unmarked track leads 900 metres further to Andersons Dale.

The buttress roots of a giant Tahitian chestnut tree at Hughs Dale waterfall.

The buttress roots of a giant Tahitian chestnut tree at Hughs Dale waterfall.

Scuba Diving

Scuba diving on Christmas Island is offered by two dive operators who maintain dive shops in The Settlement:

Christmas Island Wet’n’Dry Adventures
Email: Hama@divingchristmas.com

Extra Divers
Email: christmasisland@extradivers.org

Shopping

The best shopping on Christmas Island is at the <i>Wild Papaya</i> boutique in The Settlement.

The best shopping on Christmas Island is at the Wild Papaya boutique in The Settlement.

Wild Papaya

Whenever locals wish to do serious shopping, they fly to Perth! There are few shopping opportunities on Christmas Island, but one place which shouldn’t be missed is Wild Papaya which is located in The Settlement.

<i>Wild Papaya</i> sells a range of locally produced crafts, artworks and photography.

Wild Papaya sells a range of locally produced crafts, artworks and photography.

Located next to the Tai Pak Kong temple, this inviting Aladdin’s cave is full of local gifts, crafts, artwork, souvenir tea-towels, photography and so much more.

If you wish to purchase a souvenir of Christmas Island, this is the place to do it!

Accommodation

My wonderful accommodation on Christmas Island - the very new <i>CI Apartments</i> in Poon Saan.

My wonderful accommodation on Christmas Island – the very new CI Apartments in Poon Saan.

Christmas Island offers a good range of accommodation options, all of which can be viewed and booked online through the Accommodation page of the Christmas Island Visitor Centre website.

My room at CI Apartments in Poon Saan.

My room at CI Apartments in Poon Saan.

Whether you choose to stay in a guest house, apartment, lodge or private home, almost all accommodation options are located on the north coast in Settlement and Kampong and in the plateau neighbourhood of Poon Saan.

CI Apartments provided a comfortable base for my week-long stay on Christmas Island.

CI Apartments provided a comfortable base for my week-long stay on Christmas Island.

While on the island, I chose to stay at the excellent CI Apartments which is a newly built complex, offering apartments in different configurations.

The apartments are located in the, mainly Chinese, neighbourhood of Poon Saan, next door to a supermarket, the excellent Smash cafe, a fish and chip shop and a short walk from the Lucky Ho Chinese restaurant.

My bathroom at CI Apartments.

My bathroom at CI Apartments.

CI Apartments are owned by the wonderful Jenny, an industrious local of Chinese descent, who also operates the Kiat Car rental agency.

Eating Out

Menu prices on Christmas Island, such as these at the Golden Bosun pub, can be shocking!

Menu prices on Christmas Island, such as these at the Golden Bosun pub, can be shocking!

Christmas Island is no paradise for gourmands, with the few restaurants keeping irregular hours and offering a selection of mediocre, over-priced food. To be fair – air freight adds $9 per kilo to all imported items, which is pretty much everything.

Finding food can be a challenge during the day with many of the morning options closed by 11 am, while dinner options open around 6 pm. Places which are open one day are shut the next.

The very useful, Christmas Island dining guide, which is issued by the Christmas Island Visitor Centre

The very useful, Christmas Island dining guide, which is issued by the Christmas Island Visitor Centre

Recognising how confusing this can be for the uninitiated, the Christmas Island Visitors centre issues a handy Dining Guide to all tourists arriving at the airport. This single page leaflet is laid out like a calendar, listing which restaurants are open on a particular day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is indispensable!

Cafés

The interior of <i>Smash Espresso bar</i>, the most popular café on Christmas Island.

The interior of Smash Espresso bar, the most popular café on Christmas Island.

Smash Espresso Bar

The take-away window at <i>Smash Espresso bar</i>.

The take-away window at Smash Espresso bar.

Located in the small Poon Saan shopping centre, the Smash Espresso Bar is a very popular café, drawing in the locals and most tourists on the island. Offering the best coffee on the island, the cafe features a typically Australian breakfast menu, featuring bacon and egg wraps, eggs benedict and much more.

Owned by a friendly Thai/ Australian husband and wife team, the cafe is open every morning with most items reasonably priced.

A big challenge for any food business on Christmas Island is the supply of imported items, which are air freighted in once every two weeks.

Fresh milk is not available on the island, with cartons of UHT milk being used instead. During my stay, the cafe was close to running out of milk supplies which is a real problem when there’s nowhere else to go to buy more supplies.

Halal Café

The menu at Halal café features many Malaysian favourites.

The menu at Halal café features many Malaysian favourites.

I love nothing more than a good Malaysian breakfast, so I was pleasantly surprised to find the Halal café, a Malaysian cafe in the Kampong neighbourhood, where I could enjoy a typical Malaysian mamak breakfast.

The perfect Malaysian breakfast at Halal café - Teh Tarek and Roti Telur.

The perfect Malaysian breakfast at Halal café – Teh Tarek and Roti Telur.

This tiny café, which is tucked in behind the mosque in the Kampong neighbourhood, offers a very reasonably priced menu which features roti canai and roti telur (my favourite roti) which is best enjoyed with a freshly made Teh Tarek (pulled tea).

The friendly and enthusiastic staff provide a wonderful level of service with the cafe closing at 11:30 am.

Idah Kitchen

Located across the laneway from the mosque, and around the corner from Halal café, Idah Kitchen also offer typical Malaysian food which is served on their balcony, overlooking Flying Fish Cove.

Like most eating establishments on Christmas Island, the opening hours are tricky with the restaurant closed on Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday and open all other days from 6:30 am to 12:30 pm.

CI Bakery Cafe

Located next to the CI Visitors centre, the low-key CI Bakery Cafe is open most mornings, and some evenings, serving a selection of Chinese, Malay and Western-style food.

From Fried Kuay Teow to Kung Pow chicken, Nasi Lemak to Chicken Carbonara pasta, this bakery offers much more than fresh bread. They also sell a range of homemade cookies.

Poon Saan Coffee Shop

Located next to the Smash Espresso Bar in the Poon Saan shopping centre, the Poon Saan Coffee Shop serves a selection of Chinese meals which are especially popular with the local Chinese community.

This coffee shop is closed on Saturday but open every other day from 6 am to 11 am.

Restaurants

Golden Bosun Tavern & Restaurant

<i>Salmon with chips and salad</i> costs A$42 at the Golden Bosun pub on Christmas Island.

Salmon with chips and salad costs A$42 at the Golden Bosun pub on Christmas Island.

The Golden Bosun Tavern & Restaurant is the one place on the island which serves pub meals and alcohol 6 nights a week, closing only on Monday.

It’s also the only bar on the island and is, without doubt, the most popular place to socialise. If you wish to meet local ex-pats, this is the place to be!

While the meals are good, the prices are very high with a garden salad costing A$28! This is only a reflection of the cost of imported produce, where a lettuce costs A$18 at the supermarket.

Le CLA Café and Restaurant

The entrance of Le CLA Café and Restaurant in Settlement.

The entrance of Le CLA Café and Restaurant in Settlement.

The Chinese Literary Association (CLA) operate the very popular Le CLA Café and Restaurant which is located next to the Christmas Island Visitor Centre in Settlement.

Artwork on the wall of the CLA restaurant in The Settlement.

Artwork on the wall of the CLA restaurant in The Settlement.

Offering tasty Chinese food, CLA also serves as a de-facto community centre for the close-knit Chinese community, hosting Chinese New Year events and other gatherings. A small Chinese museum is located across the road.

Lucky Ho

A sample of the menu at the <i>Lucky Ho</i> Chinese restaurant in Poon Saan.

A sample of the menu at the Lucky Ho Chinese restaurant in Poon Saan.

A popular restaurant in Poon Saan, Lucky Ho offers appetising Chinese food with each dish available in three different sizes. As per the menu page above, a small chicken dish costs $22, a medium dish $33, while a family-sized dish costs $39/40.

Located next to a Chinese community centre, and offering plenty of seating, the restaurant is always busy. Lucky Ho is open every day except Wednesday, serving dinner until 8:30 pm.

Take Away

Seaview Fish & Chips

Tucked away, behind the supermarket in Poon Saan, Seaview Fish n Chipz offer very good take-away meals which feature locally caught fish (a rarity on Christmas Island where everything is imported).

This hole-in-the-wall establishment is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 5 pm to 8 pm.

Bars

Golden Bosun Tavern & Restaurant

The only bar on Christmas Island is the Golden Bosun Tavern & Restaurant which is located on the seafront in Settlement and is open every evening from 4 pm to midnight, except Monday.

Being the only bar on the island, the Golden Bosun is a busy, popular place, offering pub meals and very reasonably priced (duty-free) alcohol.

Visa Requirements

Since you can only enter this Australian territory on a domestic flight from Australia, there is no immigration upon arrival at the airport. The entry requirements for Christmas Island are the same as Australia.

Passengers are required to travel with photo identification such as a passport or drivers’ license, with a passport being the preferred means of documentation. A passport is also much more useful, should your flight be diverted to another country. Jakarta International Airport is the closest airport to Christmas Island.

To check the visa requirements for Australia, please refer to the Visa Policy of Australia.

Souvenir Passport Stamp

Available from the post office, the Christmas Island 'Crab' postmark makes for an amusing souvenir passport stamp.

Available from the post office, the Christmas Island ‘Crab’ postmark makes for an amusing souvenir passport stamp.

Despite the fact that there are no immigration formalities on Christmas Island, there is the possibility of getting a comical souvenir passport stamp from the post office.

The Christmas Island postmark stamp used by the post office features a whimsical crab which looks great on an, otherwise serious, passport page.

Getting There

Virgin Australia operates the only flights to the Indian Ocean Territories from Perth. Source: http://www.gcmap.com/

Virgin Australia operates the only flights to the Indian Ocean Territories from Perth. Source: http://www.gcmap.com/

Air

Virgin Airlines at Christmas Island airport.

Virgin Airlines at Christmas Island airport.

The only way to arrive on Christmas Island is by flying.

Flights arrive at Christmas Island International Airport (IATA: XCH) which is located at an elevation of 279 metres (916 feet) above sea level, 5 km from the main population centre.

Passenger flights, which are operated by Virgin Australia, arrive twice a week on Tuesday and Friday. Virgin connect Perth to Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands, flying a triangular circuit. The Tuesday flight operates in an anti-clockwise direction, calling first at Christmas Island, then continuing on to Cocos (Keeling) Islands, before returning to Perth, while the Friday flight operates in the opposite direction.

The terminal at Christmas Island airport.

The terminal at Christmas Island airport.

All of this is subject to change at short notice with everything dependant on the, very unpredictable, tropical weather. Flights to the Indian Ocean territories are full of uncertainties. When travelling, you should purchase travel insurance, pack lots of patience, keep an open mind and bear in mind that if something can go wrong, it most probably will!

I spent two weeks visiting Christmas Island and Cocos (Keeling) Islands. It was two weeks of flight cancellations, flight changes and delays.

An added challenge is the distance and flight time involved, with the total flying time for the full circuit being 13 hours, which includes a 40-minute transit on each of the islands, during which all passengers must leave the aircraft.

My Christmas Island flight, displayed on the departure board at a very empty Perth International airport.

My Christmas Island flight, displayed on the departure board at a very empty Perth International airport.

As per Australian Civil Aviation regulations, during one tour of duty, pilots are able to work a maximum of 8 hours, while cabin crew can work a maximum of 14 hours.

To satisfy these requirements, Virgin carry a 2nd pair of pilots on their flights, allowing 4 pilots to cover the 13-hour flying period. They also carry a mechanic, in case of any mechanical issue, since there are no aircraft mechanics based on the islands. Virgin carries just one flight crew.

Flights to Christmas Island depart from Perth International airport, which was empty due to the ongoing Covid pandemic.

Flights to Christmas Island depart from Perth International airport, which was empty due to the ongoing Covid pandemic.

In the event of a significant delay, the law requires Virgin to halt the flight so that the crew do not exceed their maximum allowed work hours. This happened on my flight from Christmas Island to Cocos (Keeling), where a technical issue led to a delay which resulted in the flight overnighting on Christmas Island.

The crew arrangement on this flight is very similar to that on the, equally epic, United Airlines’ Island Hopper (UA154), which I covered in my Central Pacific Island Hopper Guide.

Airport Transport

Airport transport can be arranged by calling the one taxi driver (Chris) at +61 (0)439 215 644 or through Indian Ocean Experiences who can be contacted at+61 (0) 439 215 667.

Getting Around

A road sign on Christmas Island.

A road sign on Christmas Island.

Public Transport

There is no public transport on Christmas Island.

Taxi

There is one taxi on Christmas Island which is operated by Chris, who can be contacted at +61 (0)439 215 644.

Rental Car

My rental car and two Christmas Island red crabs.

My rental car and two Christmas Island red crabs.

With no public transport, the only sensible option for exploring this mountainous island is a rental car.

There are three rental agents on the island, all of whom are listed on the Car Rental page of the Christmas Island Visitor Centre website.

A Christmas Island License plate.

A Christmas Island License plate.

You can reserve your car from the visitor centre website, or directly from the agents listed here:

  • Kiat Car Rental – Kiat car rental is owned by Jenny, who also owns the excellent CI Apartments accommodation complex in Poon Saan. With good, reliable, cars starting at $65 per day, Jenny’s cars tend to sell-out fast. You can email Jenny at kiat_tan@hotmail.com or telephone her on +61 (0) 439 215 388.
  • Sea Eye Car Rental – offers a range of 2WD and 4WD cars from A$55 per day.
  • Soong Car Rental – Another local of Chinese descent, Mr Soong, offers a range of clunkers which are best avoided. I hired through him as he was the only option available. My 4WD, which had about 250,000 kilometres on the odometer, included a slashed driver’s seat, bald tyres and was generally old, worn and very tired. Anywhere else, this car would have been scrapped long ago, however, on remote Christmas Island, such a relic is considered a viable rental option. During a trip to a more remote part of the island, one of the threadbare tires punctured. I then discovered the jack was broken which meant I needed assistance from Mr Soong who had to drive to the other side of the island to change my flat tyre.
A display of old Christmas Island License plates at the Tai Jin House museum.

A display of old Christmas Island License plates at the Tai Jin House museum.

Petrol Supply

There is just one petrol station on Christmas Island, which is operated by the Indian Ocean Oil Company. Located next to the CI Visitors Centre, a litre of unleaded petrol costs $A2.28. Filling up my Toyota rental car cost me A$114!

The station is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm, on Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm and closed Sunday.

 


That’s the end of my travel guide for Christmas Island. I look forward to receiving feedback from anyone who uses this guide to plan a trip to Christmas Island. 

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Following is a list of my travel reports from the Indian Ocean region:

Tasmania Photo Gallery

A view of Bruny Island from The Neck lookout.

Tasmania Photo Gallery

This is a Tasmania Photo Gallery.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


 

Norfolk Island Photo Gallery

Completed in 1835, the Commissariat Store on Norfolk Island is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the Southern Hemisphere.

Norfolk Island Photo Gallery

This is a Norfolk Island Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Norfolk Island Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Cover Photo: View from the Captain Cook lookout on Norfolk Island.

Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Norfolk Island Travel Guide!

Date Visited: November 2020

Introduction

Enchanting Norfolk Island may be small in size, but it’s huge on options. From swimming at pristine beaches to snorkelling, birdwatching, hiking, scuba diving on spectacular reefs, surfing in stunning Anson bay to deep-sea fishing or exploring a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The island packs a lot in and that’s before you start rubbing shoulders with the friendly locals – descendants of those rebellious mutineers from the HMS Bounty. Norfolk Island is a rewarding destination for those who make the journey to this remote corner of the Pacific Ocean.

Sunset at Anson Bay, on the west coast of Norfolk Island.

Sunset at Anson Bay, on the west coast of Norfolk Island.

Norfolk Island has long been on my travel wish list but other, more exotic and distant destinations, kept getting in the way. The current COVID-19 pandemic, which has resulted in a ban on Australians travelling overseas, created a window of opportunity for me to finally visit the island. I’m happy it did!

It seems I’m not alone, with tourism to the island booming since Australians cannot travel overseas, but they can travel to Norfolk Island which is an ‘overseas’ Australian territory.

Tourism arrivals on the island are continually increasing, with Air New Zealand, the only carrier flying to the island, recently adding more flights to cope with demand.

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

A trip to Norfolk Island from Sydney or Brisbane, the only two departure points to the island, allows visitors to breeze through the deserted international terminals on the mainland, to once again experience the joy of flying (on a two-hour flight over the Pacific Ocean), before disembarking onto the tarmac at an ‘overseas’ destination.

After your holiday, you then return back to Australia without the hassle of being subjected to a mandatory, and expensive, 14-day quarantine program. Nice! 

A view of the south coast of Norfolk Island from Headstone Point.

A view of the south coast of Norfolk Island from Headstone Point.

Once on the island, visitors are spoilt for choice with Norfolk Island offering activities for all age groups and energy levels. 

While the majority of travellers to Norfolk Island are elderly Australians – who appreciate the relaxed, slower pace of life on the island – there are plenty of activities for the more energetic.

Passing through this spectacular basalt archway on the north coast provided access to our scuba diving sites.

Passing through this spectacular basalt archway on the north coast provided access to our scuba diving sites.

The underwater, volcanic formations, which lie submerged in the pristine waters that surround Norfolk Island, make for spectacular scuba diving. Amazing snorkelling can be found at many of the beaches, while the beautiful Anson Bay is a favourite beach for surfers

A fluffy Masked Booby chick on Norfolk Island.

A fluffy Masked Booby chick on Norfolk Island.

On land, hiking trails, ranging from easy to difficult, cling precariously to the edges of high coastal cliffs, offering breath-taking views out to sea. It’s on these trails you’ll encounter nesting seabirds. 

Other hiking trails meander through the lush, green, interior forests of the Norfolk Island National Park. It’s along these trails that birdwatchers can spot the various endemic birds which have evolved in isolation over millennia. 

Completed in 1835, the Commissariat Store in Kingston is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the Southern Hemisphere.

Completed in 1835, the Commissariat Store in Kingston is one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in the Southern Hemisphere.

History enthusiasts will love exploring the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale UNESCO World Heritage Site, the most intact convict penal settlement in the Southern Hemisphere. 

Then there is the fascinating story of modern settlement on the island with the descendants of the HMS Bounty mutineers relocating to Norfolk Island from an overcrowded Pitcairn Island. 

Thanksgiving Food Festival in Kingston. Norfolk Island’s Thanksgiving is based on the American tradition, being introduced to the island by visiting, 19th-century, American whalers.

Thanksgiving Food Festival in Kingston. Norfolk Island’s Thanksgiving is based on the American tradition, being introduced to the island by visiting, 19th-century, American whalers.

About half of the islanders today can trace their roots back to Pitcairn Island. Far from being mutinous, Norfolk Islanders are friendly, pleasant and welcoming. While driving on the island, other drivers you pass will wave at you, and it’s polite to return the wave – it’s call the Norfolk wave! 

A gravestone of an executed convict at the Kingston cemetery.

A gravestone of an executed convict at the Kingston cemetery.

Despite being just 34.6 square kilometres (13.4 square miles), I spent a busy nine days on the Island and would recommend at least that amount of time in order to fully explore this sub-tropical, pristine, emerald isle.

Location

Norfolk Island is located in the Pacific Ocean between New Zealand and New Caledonia (click to read my travel guide) – 1,412 kilometres (877 mi) east of Australia at roughly the same latitude as Evans Head in northern New South Wales.

A view of Philip Island (background) and Nepean Island (middle) from Norfolk Island.

A view of Philip Island (background) and Nepean Island (middle) from Norfolk Island.

Together with neighbouring Nepean Island, and the more distant Philip Island, both of which are uninhabited, the three islands collectively form the Territory of Norfolk Island.

Like Norfolk Island, the mountainous Philip Island is volcanic in origin while flat Nepean Island is a raised slab of limestone seabed.

Norfolk Island is the eroded remnant of a basaltic volcano active around 2.5 to 3 million years ago. It forms the highest point on the Norfolk Ridge, part of the submerged micro-continent of Zealandia.

A map of Norfolk Island adorns a souvenir plate.

A map of Norfolk Island adorns a souvenir plate.

The Norfolk Ridge extends from New Caledonia to New Zealand. The central section of this north-south oriented ridge is 1,000 kilometres (600 miles) long and 70 kilometres (40 miles) wide, and is almost entirely submerged. Only the volcanic tops of Norfolk and Philip islands break the surface of the Pacific Ocean.

Zealandia

The mostly submerged micro-continent of Zealandia.

The mostly submerged micro-continent of Zealandia.
Source: Wikipedia.

The almost entirely submerged Zealandia is a mass of continental crust that subsided after breaking away from Gondwanaland between 83–79 million years ago.

It’s believed that this landmass, which extends from New Caledonia to New Zealand, may have been completely submerged around 23 million years ago. Today, 94% remains submerged beneath the Pacific Ocean with New Zealand being the largest part of Zealandia that is above sea level, followed by New Caledonia.

People

There have been three periods of settlement on Norfolk Island – Polynesian; British and the Pitcairn Islanders.

Polynesian Settlement

Archaeological evidence shows that the island was inhabited by Polynesian settlers between the 13th and 15th centuries. It is unknown why this settlement ended but the island was uninhabited when the British arrived in 1788.

British Settlement

A view of the Old Military Barracks and other historic buildings in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Kingston and Arthur's Vale Historic Area (KAVHA).

A view of the Old Military Barracks and other historic buildings in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Kingston and Arthur’s Vale Historic Area (KAVHA).

In March 1788, just five weeks after the First Fleet arrived in Sydney, the British established a settlement on Norfolk Island. It was chosen for settlement because Captain Cook, who first visited Norfolk Island in 1774, had identified the towering Norfolk Island pines as being useful for ships masts and the local flax as good for sails. Both plants turned out to be unsuitable for these purposes.

However, the island’s fertile volcanic soil and mild climate made it ideal for agriculture and farming, and Norfolk Island became a key source of produce for the newly-established Sydney colony.

Both convicts and free settlers made Norfolk Island their home until 1814, when the island was abandoned due to its perilous landing sites, isolation, and the fact that the Sydney colony was now established and didn’t need supplies from Norfolk Island.

The island lay abandoned from 1814 until 1825 at which time a decision was made to establish a convict penal settlement on the island. This marked the start of a dark period in Norfolk’s history, with the island becoming infamous around the world for the harsh treatment prisoners received.

During this period, ambitious building works were commissioned in Kingston. Many of these buildings have been restored and form the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The second penal settlement began to be wound down by the British government after 1847 and the last convicts were removed to Tasmania in May 1855. The island was then entered into the British Crowns’ register of ‘Abandoned Lands‘.

Pitcairn Islanders

Meanwhile, on the other side of the Pacific – 6,271 km to the east of Norfolk Island, the descendants of the HMS Bounty mutineers had outgrown their home on tiny Pitcairn Island which is just 5 km2 (1.9 square miles) in area.

Following appeals to the British crown, Queen Victoria allocated Norfolk Island as a new settlement site for the Pitcairn Islanders.

On the 3rd of May 1856, a British government-supplied ship relocated 194 Pitcairn Islanders to Norfolk Island, who arrived at their new home on the 8th of June 1856.

The Pitcairn Islanders originally lived in the abandoned convict buildings in Kingston before moving to their own 50-acre land grants, where they built homes and farms.

The descendants of the Pitcairn Islanders now make up about a half of the island’s population, and a walk through the rows of headstones in the islands’ one cemetery in Kingston show those who were direct descendants of the Bounty mutineers, with numerous gravestones bearing the surnames of Christian, Quintal, McCoy, Adams and Young.

The rest of the population is made up of Australian and New Zealand expats and a small number of people from other countries, especially neighbouring Pacific nations. The current population is about 1800.

Mutiny on the Bounty

A model of the 'HMS Bounty' at the Norfolk Island museum.

A model of the ‘HMS Bounty’ at the Norfolk Island museum.

The story of modern settlement on Norfolk Island starts with the events which happened off the coast of Tonga on the 28th of April 1789 – the day that a Mutiny took place on the HMS Bounty.

The story of the HMS Bounty starts twenty years earlier, in 1769, when Captain James Cook discovered Breadfruit while visiting the island of Tahiti. At the time, the British government was searching for food crops which could be grown in the Caribbean to support their growing number of slaves.

After being discovered on Tahiti by Captain James Cook, Breadfruit was transported to the Caribbean by William Bligh.

After being discovered on Tahiti by Captain James Cook, Breadfruit was transported to the Caribbean by William Bligh.

Captain Cook, recognising the potential of breadfruit (which he referred to as ‘bread growing on a tree‘), proposed to King George III to commission a special expedition to transport breadfruit trees from Tahiti to the Caribbean.

In 1787, William Bligh, who had a reputation for being harsh and rude to his subordinates, was appointed Captain of the HMS Bounty and instructed by the Royal Crown to transport over 1,000 breadfruit trees from Tahiti to the Caribbean.

In December 1787, the HMS Bounty left England for Tahiti. Due to storms at Cape Horn, which prevented the Bounty from passing under South America, Bligh had no choice but to change course, approaching Tahiti via South Africa and the Southern Ocean, south of Australia. This added months to the journey and saw mounting tensions between Bligh and his crew, especially first-mate Christian Fletcher, escalate further.

Inside Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama, Norfolk Island. A 360° panoramic painting which depicts the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty and the Norfolk Island people.

Inside Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama, Norfolk Island. A 360° panoramic painting which depicts the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty and the Norfolk Island people.
Source: Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama.

After a 10-month journey, the Bounty arrived in Tahiti in October 1788 and remained there for more than five months. On Tahiti, the crew enjoyed an idyllic life in a lush, tropical paradise and also fell in love with local Tahitian woman. Needless to say, when the time came to depart, the crew were very reluctant to leave.

On April 4, 1789, the Bounty departed Tahiti with its store of 1000 breadfruit saplings. On April 28, near to Tonga, Christian and 25 petty officers and seamen seized the ship, forcing Bligh and his loyalists into a small longboat.

They should have perished at sea, but incredibly, under Bligh’s command, the crew were able to reach the city of Kupang (today in Indonesian West Timor) – 5,800 km to the west of Tonga.

Bligh eventually returned to England and, as determined as ever, sailed once again to Tahiti to collect more Breadfruit saplings and deliver them to the Caribbean. Today, thanks to Bligh’s efforts, Breadfruit is a staple throughout the Caribbean and Central/ South America.


Further Reading: You can see one of the original Breadfruit trees, which was planted by Bligh in the Kingstown Botanical gardens, in my St. Vincent and Grenadines Travel Guide.


Meanwhile, Christian and his men attempted to establish themselves on the island of Tubuai in French Polynesia. Unsuccessful, they returned  to Tahiti where 16 mutineers decided to stay. Their time on Tahiti was limited as they were soon captured by the British and returned to England to face justice.

The original kettle from the HMS Bounty which was once used on Pitcairn Island and is now on display at the Norfolk Island museum.

The original kettle from the HMS Bounty which was once used on Pitcairn Island and is now on display at the Norfolk Island museum.

Fletcher Christian and eight others, together with six Tahitian men, a dozen Tahitian women, and a child, decided to search the South Pacific for a safe haven. In January 1790, the Bounty arrived at the uninhabited Pitcairn Island, more than 1,600-km east of Tahiti.

Sixty-six years later, the small community had grown to a point where tiny Pitcairn could no longer sustain them, hence the relocation to Norfolk Island where today the descendants of those original Mutineers comprise around 50% of the population.

Politics

A park in Burnt Pine displays the handprints of islanders who have put their 'Hands Up for Democracy'.

A park in Burnt Pine displays the handprints of islanders who have put their ‘Hands Up for Democracy’.

Controversy has always existed as to the exact status of Norfolk Island. Despite the island’s status as a self-governing territory of Australia, some Islanders claim that it was actually granted full independence at the time Queen Victoria granted permission to Pitcairn Islanders to re-settle on the island in 1856.

At that time, Norfolk Island was established as a colony separate from New South Wales but under the administration of that colony’s governor. In 1914 the UK handed Norfolk Island over to Australia to administer as an external territory, but as a distinct and separate settlement.

The Five Demands from the Norfolk Island democracy movement.

The Five Demands from the Norfolk Island democracy movement.

On the 19th of March 2015, the Australian government announced that self-governance for the island would be revoked by the Commonwealth and replaced by a local council with the state of New South Wales providing services to the island.

The reason given for this controversial move was that the island had never gained self-sufficiency and was being heavily subsidised by the Commonwealth, by apparently $12.5 million in 2015 alone. It meant residents would have to start paying Australian income tax, but they would also be covered by Australian welfare schemes.

Today, an active democracy movement exists which is fighting for full democracy to be restored to the island. In Burnt Pine, the ‘Centre for Democracy‘ is happy to explain the democracy demands of islanders to any curious visitor.

Also, in Burnt Pine, a small park has been created where the hand-prints of many islanders, who have ‘put their hands up for democracy‘, are displayed.

A protestor’s tent embassy has also been established on the grounds of the old Military barracks in Kingston.

Flag

The flag of Norfolk Island features a Norfolk Island pine.

The flag of Norfolk Island features a Norfolk Island pine.

The flag of Norfolk Island, which was approved for use by the Norfolk Island council in 1979, features a Norfolk Island pine in a central white stripe between two green stripes.

Flag Nigeria

The flag of Nigeria.

The flag’s geometry is a triband with the central white stripe slightly wider than the two outer green stripes. The flag is very similar in design to the flag of Nigeria.

The Norfolk Island flag, fluttering in front of a row of Norfolk Island pines in Kingston.

The Norfolk Island flag, fluttering in front of a row of Norfolk Island pines in Kingston.

Currency

The slowly disappearing Australian dollar is the official currency of Norfolk Island.

The slowly disappearing Australian dollar is the official currency of Norfolk Island.

The official currency of Norfolk Island is the Australian dollar (A$), which trades under the international currency code of AUD.

Having the distinction of being the world’s first polymer currency, the currency is issued in bank notes of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100. The dollar is divided into 100 cents (c), with coins being issued in denominations of 5c, 10c, 20c and 50c, $1 and $2.

All bank notes are printing in Melbourne by Note Printing Australia (a division of the Reserve Bank of Australia), who also print polymer bank notes for Central banks around the globe.

Banking services on the island are provided by the Commonwealth Bank of Australia which offers one modern branch, with an ATM, on the main street of Burnt Pine.

Like mainland Australia, most transactions on Norfolk Island are cashless with credit cards being widely accepted.

To check the current exchange rate between the Australian dollar and the US dollar, click here.

Costs

Since many items are imported from mainland Australia, costs on Norfolk Island are slightly higher than Australia.

One item which is noticeably more expensive is petrol which costs A$2.14 per litre. Thankfully distances are small so, after a week of driving my rental car, I needed to top-up with just half a tank of fuel which still cost me about A$55.

Most goods on the island arrive by boat from Australia, but as the boat comes every 6 weeks, supermarket shelves can become bare towards the end of the delivery cycle.

Where possible, its best to buy local fruit and vegetables and self-cater. My apartment included a fully equipped kitchen where I could prepare the freshest of local produce, all of which is organic and full of flavour – much tastier than produce sold in Australian supermarkets!

A good shopping option is the weekly Farmers’ market which is held on the grounds of the Norfolk Island Visitors centre each weekend.

As you drive around the island, many locals have a produce box at their front gate where they sell homemade jams, chutneys, pickles, sauces and fresh fruit and vegetables. These are always unattended with payment made into an honesty box – making these one of the last places on the island where cash is required!

Philately

Norfolk Island Stamps - "Peace in the Pacific".

Norfolk Island Stamps – “Peace in the Pacific”.

Norfolk Island issues its own postal stamps and operates its own postal service. Rates are charged at the same rates as those in Australia with stamps being supplied by Australia Post, who also sell Norfolk Island stamps online.

Stamps from either Norfolk Island or Australia are valid for postage in either location. Stamps can be purchased at the one post office in Burnt Pine which is tucked away in the back corner of the P&R Grocery store.

Norfolk Island Stamps - "Bump-head Sunfish".

Norfolk Island Stamps – “Bump-head Sunfish”.

Unlike many other Pacific Islands, who have flooded the stamp market with irrelevant stamp issues (e.g., “Lunar Landing”, “Disneyland Characters”, “Michael Jackson” etc), the commemorative and definitive stamps issued by Australia Post for Norfolk Island are highly relevant, featuring local fauna, flora, history and society.

Norfolk Island Stamps - "Early Botanical Art".

Norfolk Island Stamps – “Early Botanical Art”.

Connectivity

Terrible!

Unless you have roaming enabled on your phone, you’ll find yourself in a network black hole on Norfolk Island!

Australian Telco’s, such as Optus and Telstra, have no presence on the island with all network and data services provided by the local operator, Norfolk Telecom, who offer a rather slow 2G network, although this is being upgraded to 4G. The scheduled ‘go-live’ date for the new 4G network is the 12th of January, 2021.

Wi-Fi

WiFi Symbol.

Wi-Fi coverage on Norfolk Island is limited, with free Wi-Fi normally offered by your accommodation provider. Local SIM cards can be purchased from Norfolk Telecom who offer a selection of data plans.

In Burnt Pine, the RSL club is the only place which offers free Wi-Fi while Norfolk Telecom operate a hotspot throughout the village, which is available to paid subscribers.

Flora

A view of Norfolk Island from Mount Pitt, the 2nd highest point in the Norfolk Island National Park.

A view of Norfolk Island from Mount Pitt, the 2nd highest point in the Norfolk Island National Park.

As is the case with so many islands which have evolved in isolation, Norfolk Island is home to plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. Of the 200 native plants found on the island, 40 are endemic.

While much of the island has been cleared of its original vegetation, the Norfolk Island National Park, Botanic Garden and 100 Acres reserve are home to most of the island’s remaining natural areas. These three reserves offer hiking trails which allow you to explore these natural wonderlands.

Norfolk Island Pine

Beautiful Emily Bay is surrounded by a forest of Norfolk Island pines.

Beautiful Emily Bay is surrounded by a forest of Norfolk Island pines.

The best known symbol of Norfolk Island is the iconic Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla). Featured on everything from the territorial flag, stamps, souvenirs and so much more, the ubiquitous Norfolk Island pine is a common sight across the island.

A row of trunks from an avenue of mature Norfolk Island pines at Puppy's Point.

A row of trunks from an avenue of mature Norfolk Island pines at Puppy’s Point.

With its classic ‘Christmas tree’ appearance, the Norfolk Island pine was always destined to be a popular ornamental tree and is now cultivated around the world.

It’s especially popular in Australia where rows of Norfolk Island pines line various beaches. The tree is ideal for coastal environments, being able to grow well in sandy soil and having a high tolerance of salt and wind.

Norfolk Island is a very green and clean destination with Norfolk Island pines framing every view.

Norfolk Island is a very green and clean destination with Norfolk Island pines framing every view.

Young Norfolk Island pines have upward-pointing branches which act to catch rainwater, directing it towards the trunk and hence the roots, while older trees have downward-pointing branches which have the opposite effect.

A Norfolk Island pine festooned with lichen Usnea.

A Norfolk Island pine festooned with lichen Usnea.

Some pines are covered with lichen Usnea (aka ‘old man’s beard’) which give them the appearance of a Christmas tree covered in tinsel. For those who have spent time in the deep south of the United States, Usnea is very similar to Spanish moss. Like other lichens, Usnea often grows on sick or dying trees due to the pre-existing loss of canopy leaves, allowing for greater photosynthesis by the lichen’s algae.

Norfolk Island Hibiscus

The Norfolk Island Hibiscus.

The Norfolk Island Hibiscus.

Native to Norfolk Island, the Norfolk Island Hibiscus (also known as White Oak) is a common sight on the island, found along roadsides and hiking trails.

Thanks to its pretty flower and highly adaptable, hardy nature, the Norfolk Island Hibiscus, has been cultivated around the world, in tropical, sub-tropical and temperate areas, both in coastal and inland zones. Reaching more than 20 metres in height, the hibiscus is hardy to salt spray and is therefore excellent for coastal gardens.

Also in the hibiscus family is the Philip Island Hibiscus (Hibiscus insularis) which is endemic to Philip Island but can be found in gardens on Norfolk Island.

Norfolk Tree Fern

Towering, Norfolk Tree Ferns, in the 100 Acres Reserve on Norfolk Island.

Towering, Norfolk Tree Ferns, in the 100 Acres Reserve on Norfolk Island.

Soaring to a height of 20 metres (66 ft) or more, the Norfolk Tree Fern is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the tallest fern in the world.

Endemic to Norfolk Island, and once extensive on the island, prior to European settlement, the fern today can be found in the gullies of the Norfolk Island National Park, Botanic garden and the 100 Acres reserve.

Fauna

The endemic Norfolk Island green parrot in the Botanical garden.

The endemic Norfolk Island green parrot in the Botanical garden.

Norfolk Island has no endemic mammals, and its only native mammals, two species of bats, are now extinct on the island.

There are 116 bird species on the island, some of which are endemic. The best places to look for birds are the along the hiking trails in the Botanical garden, the National park and the 100 Acres reserve.

Bird Watching Tour

"Norfolk Island ... the birds" by Margaret Christian.

“Norfolk Island … the birds” by Margaret Christian.

If you have any interest in birdwatching, the best thing you can do on Norfolk Island is to book a birdwatching tour with the local bird expert – Margaret Christian, who is the author of the book ‘Norfolk Island … the birds‘, the most comprehensive guide to the birds of Norfolk Island. Tours with Margaret can be booked through the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre.

Originally from mainland Australia, Margaret has lived on Norfolk Island for many years and is married to a descendant of Fletcher Christian. Margaret’s tours are informative and entertaining and, at no stage, was there any suggestion of a mutiny happening in her mini-bus, with everyone enjoying the tour.

A Masked Booby chick on the north coast of Norfolk Island.

A Masked Booby chick on the north coast of Norfolk Island.

Morning tea, which consisted of a freshly baked coconut cake and hot drinks, was served on the lawn at Margaret’s beautiful seaside property which is situated atop the sea cliffs which line the north coast of the island. The grassy grounds around her home are the favoured nesting grounds for Masked Boobies, with lots of fluffy chicks present during my visit.

Norfolk Island Green Parrot

The Norfolk Island green parrot can be found in the Botanical garden and the National park.

The Norfolk Island green parrot can be found in the Botanical garden and the National park.

The most iconic of the birds is the endemic Norfolk Island green parrot. Once a common species, the green parrot was near to extinction in the late 1970’s due to habitat loss and the killing of eggs and young by rats and feral cats.

A concerted effort to reduce rat and cat populations by trapping, and the ongoing culling of the more aggressive (introduced) Crimson Rosella has resulted in an increase in the green parrot population.

Crimson Rosella (Red Parrot)

A Crimson rosella, known locally as a Red parrot, sitting in a Norfolk Island pine.

A Crimson rosella, known locally as a Red parrot, sitting in a Norfolk Island pine.

A native of mainland Australia, Crimson rosellas were first taken to Norfolk Island as cage birds during the first penal settlement. Known locally as Red parrots, they were reported in the wild as early as 1838.

As the number of Crimson rosellas increased on the island, the number of Green parrots declined. The more aggressive Crimson rosella acts like a playground bully, invading the nesting hollows of green parrots and deliberately smashing its eggs.

Currently, a culling program is underway to reduce the number of Crimson rosellas which is being conducted by a National Parks ranger armed with a shot gun. Photographing them is difficult because they are very weary of anyone pointing anything at them.

While the culling program is beneficial for the green parrot, some locals are against it as they like to see the colourful Crimson rosellas in their gardens.

Norfolk Island Grey Fantail

A Norfolk Island Grey Fantail on the Mount Bates hiking trail.

A Norfolk Island Grey Fantail on the Mount Bates hiking trail.

Found in gardens and forests across the island, the curious and mischievous Norfolk Island Grey Fantail never sits still, flitting their fan-like tail as they move.

Although endemic, the Norfolk Island Grey Fantail is very similar to the varieties of grey fantails which inhabit the mainland of Australia. Fantails are found all over Australia except for the central desert areas.

The fantail isn’t shy and will often follow you as you walk along hiking trials or might even buzz you just for fun. Thanks to its boldness, the fantail is the easiest of birds to photograph, perching directly in front of you while you get your perfect shot.

Masked Booby

An adult Masked Booby on Norfolk Island.

An adult Masked Booby on Norfolk Island.

Norfolk Island is a seabirds’ paradise, boasting access to the abundant ocean and safe nesting sites high on the steep volcanic cliffs and the numerous offshore islets.

Masked boobies, one of six species of boobies, are a common sight on the island, where they nest, on the ground, between August and February. These large and distinctive seabirds have a white body, black tail and a small black mask around their large yellowish beak.

Striking a pose! A fluffy Masked Booby chick on Norfolk Island.

Striking a pose! A fluffy Masked Booby chick on Norfolk Island.

The female lays two eggs in a shallow depression on flat ground away from vegetation.  New-born chicks, which are covered in white downy feathers, grow quickly, becoming nearly as big as their parents during their initial growth spurt. A favourite nesting site on Norfolk Island is at the end of Fisherman’s Lane, overlooking the north coast.

A Masked Booby adult and chick at a nesting site at the end of Fisherman's Lane.

A Masked Booby adult and chick at a nesting site at the end of Fisherman’s Lane.

The chicks are born featherless, but are soon covered in white down. In an act known as siblicide the second born chick generally does not survive and is killed by its elder sibling.


Further Reading: Interested in viewing other species of Boobies? You can view Blue-footed boobies, Red-footed boobies and Nazca boobies (which are the Masked Booby in the western Pacific) in my Galapagos Islands Travel Guide.

You can view the Brown Booby in my Cayman Islands Travel Guide.


White Tern

A nesting adult White Tern in the 100 Acres reserve.

A nesting adult White Tern in the 100 Acres reserve.

The White Tern is a common sight on most Pacific islands including Norfolk Island, to which it migrates to nest. The White Tern normally leaves the island in May to spend several months at sea, flying constantly before returning in mid-August to mate. The best place to see nesting terns is at the 100 Acres reserve.

A wide-spread seabird, the White tern is unique in that the female lays only one egg per clutch in whatever suitable depression she can find on a tree branch. Why waste time and energy building a nest when you can simply lay your egg directly onto a branch?

A White tern chick, clinging onto its branch for dear life, in the 100 Acres reserve.

A White tern chick, clinging onto its branch for dear life, in the 100 Acres reserve.

If the egg isn’t blown off the tree, it stands a good chance of surviving and a fluffy chick will be born. Unable to fly, the chick must then hang onto the branch, which is often located in areas prone to gale-force winds, for the first two months of its life. Yes – two months!

After this time, and provided it hasn’t been blown off its perch, it is fully independent and able to fly.


Further Reading: In my Tuvalu Travel Guide, you can view more White terns, including one which was nesting outside the room of my guest house.


Red-tailed Tropic Bird

This curious Red-tailed tropicbird kept 'buzzing' me as I stood and photographed it on the sea cliffs at the 100 Acres reserve.

This curious Red-tailed tropicbird kept ‘buzzing’ me as I stood and photographed it on the sea cliffs at the 100 Acres reserve.

The Red-tailed tropicbird is one of three species of tropicbird which can be found on tropical islands around the world. The birds nest on Norfolk Island and are easily viewed in the 100 Acres Reserve where they build their nests on cliff faces and in protected crevices.

They can be seen performing acrobatics offshore from the reserve and, being curious, can fly close to investigate you.


Further Reading: Another of this species, the White-tailed tropicbird, can be viewed in my Bermuda Travel Guide.


Sacred Kingfisher

A Sacred Kingfisher at Balls Bay on Norfolk Island.

A Sacred Kingfisher at Balls Bay on Norfolk Island.

The dazzlingly beautiful Sacred Kingfisher can often be seen sitting on wire fences on the side of the road as you drive around Norfolk Island. The local name for the Kingfisher is ‘nuffka’, which literally means ‘Norfolker‘.

Sporting turquoise-coloured plumage with white underparts, the Sacred Kingfisher can be found throughout Australasia, the Pacific region, New Guinea and eastern Indonesia.

Norfolk Robin

A juvenile male Scarlet Robin on Norfolk Island.

A juvenile male Norfolk robin on Norfolk Island.

Endemic to Norfolk Island, the Norfolk robin, also known as the Norfolk Island scarlet robin, can be seen as a scarlet-coloured flash, darting through the forests of the Norfolk Island National park.

Juvenile males have rust-coloured breast feathers while mature males have bright red feathers.

White-faced heron

A White-faced heron on the golf course at Norfolk Island.

A White-faced heron on the golf course at Norfolk Island.

The White-faced heron is a common bird throughout most of Australasia, and has been recorded on Norfolk Island as a permanent resident for more than 100 years.

Scuba Diving

While the diving was a highlight, the boat journey along the dramatic north coast was one of the highlights of my visit to Norfolk Island.

While the diving was a highlight, the boat journey along the dramatic north coast was one of the highlights of my visit to Norfolk Island.

 

For various reasons, Norfolk Island is a scuba divers paradise! The waters which surround the island lie within the Norfolk Marine Park which extends 700 km (430 mi) in a north–south direction and covers an area of 188,444 km2 (72,759 square mi), which means no commercial fishing anywhere.

A view of Cathedral Rock, a volcanic formation which features soaring basalt columns and a very narrow pass-through passage.

A view of Cathedral Rock, a volcanic formation which features soaring basalt columns and a very narrow pass-through passage.

The island has no rivers, which means no rainwater runoff disturbing the clarity of the pristine water, and an absence of industry on the island means no industrial pollution.

The numerous dive sites of Norfolk Island feature submerged, ancient volcanic formations including many caverns and swim-throughs.

The numerous dive sites of Norfolk Island feature submerged, ancient volcanic formations including many caverns and swim-throughs.
Source: Norfolk Island Diving.

The one dive business on Norfolk Island is Norfolk Island Diving which is operated by the wonderfully laid-back, fully competent and always calm, Mitch.

The protected reefs which surround Norfolk Island are full of fish and healthy soft and hard corals.

The protected reefs which surround Norfolk Island are full of fish and healthy soft and hard corals.
Source: Norfolk Island Diving.

You can contact Mitch through the Norfolk Island Diving website, the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre or through his wife Sharyn Quintal, who is the owner of the Prinke Eco Store.

A two-tank dive with Norfolk Island Diving costs A$200.

Mitch and my two dive buddies, Sara and John, admiring the impressive views along the north coast of Norfolk Island.

Mitch and my two dive buddies, Sara and John, admiring the impressive views along the north coast of Norfolk Island.

Due to the fact that there is no safe harbour on Norfolk Island, all boats, including the dive boat, are lowered into the sea using a newly installed winch on Cascade pier.

Lowering our dive boat into the sea at Cascade pier.

Lowering our dive boat into the sea at Cascade pier.

From Cascade pier it’s a short 10-minute boat ride to the nearest dive sites.

We passed through this impressive volcanic archway on the way to one of our dives sites.

We passed through this impressive volcanic archway on the way to one of our dives sites.

The boat ride along the spectacular north coast is a highlight in itself, with breath-taking, towering volcanic rock formations lining the way, including one basalt archway which we cruised through.

The boat ride to and from our dives sites was yet another amazing experience on incredible Norfolk Island.

The boat ride to and from our dives sites was yet another amazing experience on incredible Norfolk Island.

Underwater, it gets even better with lots of ancient, submerged volcanic structures to explore, which include a number of amazing swim-throughs.

Sightseeing

Distances on Norfolk Island are short, with most places being a 10-minute drive from Burnt Pine.

Distances on Norfolk Island are short, with most places being a 10-minute drive from Burnt Pine.

Norfolk Island is approximately 8 kilometres by 6 kilometres in size. Most places on the island are a 5 to 10-minute drive from Burnt Pine, with little traffic, except for the occasional cow on the road. After 9 days of zipping around the island in my rental car, I’d consumed half a tank of fuel.

Norfolk Island Museum Pass

The Norfolk Island Museum Pass provides multiple entries into five properties as well as two guided Tag-A-Long tours.

The Norfolk Island Museum Pass provides multiple entries into five properties as well as two guided Tag-a-long tours.

If you’re planning to visit a few museums, it’s best to purchase the Norfolk Island Museum Pass which, for A$35, provides access to four museums, the Norfolk Island Research centre and two guided Tag-a-long tours.

The passes can only be purchased from the Royal Engineers Office (R.E.O) bookshop which is located next to Kingston pier. The bookshop is also the departure point for the daily Tag-a-long tours which are guided tours, led by a guide who drives a mini-bus (for those without a car) while those with cars, tag along behind the bus in a convoy, which is the only thing on Norfolk Island which resembles rush hour traffic.

Burnt Pine

More like a village, Burnt Pine is the one and only town on Norfolk Island.

More like a village, Burnt Pine is the one and only town on Norfolk Island.

The one town on Norfolk Island, tiny Burnt Pine is more ‘village’ than ‘town’. The main street, Taylors road, which is lined with duty free shops and gift stores, is also home to one bank, one post office, one supermarket, three clubs (RSL, Bowling and Leagues), two petrol stations, six cafes and a few tour companies/ travel agents.

An important stop for any new arrival is the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre which is housed in the Bicentennial Complex on Taylors road. The friendly staff at the centre will provide you with a map and suggest a suitable itinerary for your visit. They can also make reservations for any activities you wish to do. The grounds of the centre host a Farmers’ market each weekend.

Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama

Inside Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama, Norfolk Island. A 360° panoramic painting which depicts the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty and the Norfolk Island people.

Inside Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama, Norfolk Island. A 360° panoramic painting which depicts the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty and the Norfolk Island people. Source: Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama.

Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama is an amazing artwork which viewers walk inside to experience history in a unique way. The artwork is a large 360° continuous panoramic painting which completely surrounds the viewer and extends onto the floor. Painted in a realistic style and in perspective, the painting creates the feeling of being there in the scene. Realistic foreground props add a further optical illusion.

Inspiration to create this type of painting, based on the popular 18th century style of attraction, came from one of Fletcher Christians descendants. Marie Bailey, a 6th generation descendant of Christian, saw a cyclorama in Canada and thought it would be a wonderful way to depict the story of her famous ancestor and the Mutiny on the Bounty which led to the settlement of Pitcairn and Norfolk Islands.

Norfolk Island artists Tracey Yager and Sue Draper undertook the design, research and painting of the circular artwork, a two-year project. The attraction was completed in October 2002 and since then has become a popular way for people to learn the story of the Norfolk Islanders history and heritage.

Housed in the same complex, the excellent Hilli Restaurant & Cafe (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details) provides one of the finer dining experiences on Norfolk Island.

Kingston

Kingston is the administrative centre of Norfolk Island and has the distinction of being the second-oldest settlement in Australia, founded a little over a month after Sydney.

It’s also the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Kingston and Arthur’s Vale Historic Area (KAVHA) which includes the ruins of the former convict penal settlement and a number of restored buildings from that settlement.

Queen Elizabeth Lookout

Located on Rooty hill, the Queen Elizabeth Lookout is the best place to gain an overview of the Kingston and Arthur's Vale Historic Area (KAVHA).

Located on Rooty hill, the Queen Elizabeth Lookout is the best place to gain an overview of the Kingston and Arthur’s Vale Historic Area (KAVHA).

The best place to gain an appreciation of historic Kingston is from the Queen Elizabeth lookout which is located on Rooty Hill road.

The lookout provides panoramic views of the historical houses along Quality Row which were built during the 2nd Convict settlement. The lookout was opened on the 11th of February 1974 by Queen Elizabeth II during her visit to the island.

Norfolk Island New Gaol

Remains of the main gate of the New Gaol in Kingston.

Remains of the main gate of the New Gaol in Kingston.

The convict precinct in Kingston was located along the sea front, under the watchful eye of the authorities on the nearby hill. The largest walled compound in this precinct is the New Gaol which was built in 1847. The ruins of the five pentagonal wings remain as does the impressive entrance gate and surrounding walls.

Commissariat Store

The former Commissariat Store today houses a museum and the All-Saints Church.

The former Commissariat Store today houses a museum and the All-Saints Church.

One of the main sights on Quality Row, the Commissariat Store was completed in 1835 and originally housed a liquor store and a general store in the basement, a storeroom and meal room on the 1st floor, an engineer’s store on the 2nd floor and a grain store on the 3rd floor.

In 1874 the building was converted into the All-Saints Church, but not before removing the 2nd floor to create a church with a higher ceiling.

The basement is home to the Norfolk Island Commissariat Store museum which features displays detailing the first and second settlements on the island.

The Commissariat Store was protected by fortified stoned walls.

The Commissariat Store was protected by fortified stoned walls.

Norfolk Island Cenotaph

Inaugurated in 1929, the Norfolk Island Cenotaph was originally erected to commemorate those who died in service or were killed in action in World War One.

Inaugurated in 1929, the Norfolk Island Cenotaph was originally erected to commemorate those who died in service or were killed in action in World War One.

Across the road from the Commissariat Store, the Norfolk Island Cenotaph was originally erected to commemorate the lives of those who died during WWI.

The men of Norfolk Island have fought and died in many wars alongside the British, including the Boar war (11 Oct 1899 – 31 May 1902) which is also included on the memorial.

Pier Store Museum

The canon from the HMS Bounty is one of the main exhibits at the Norfolk Island Pier Store museum.

The canon from the HMS Bounty is one of the main exhibits at the Norfolk Island Pier Store museum.

The Norfolk Island Pier Store museum focuses on the third settlement on Norfolk Island – the arrival of the Pitcairn Islanders.

Displays include relics from the HMS Bounty, including a canon, wedding ring, iron kettle and an ironstone platter. All of these were removed from the Bounty for use on Pitcairn Island and were then carried to Norfolk Island.

The Crank Mill

The Crank mill was built in 1827 to serve as the Commissariat granary.

The Crank mill was built in 1827 to serve as the Commissariat granary.

Located next to the Pier Store in the convict precinct, the Crank mill was originally built in 1827 as the Commissariat Granary. A decade later a Crank was installed for the “punishment of men in irons”.

The crank was powered by around 100 convicts, who would work all day, under tortuous conditions, milling flour for the settlement.

Kingston Pier

Historic Kingston pier was constructed between 1839 and 1849 by convicts who worked in waist-deep water while wearing iron leg-chains.

Historic Kingston pier was constructed between 1839 and 1849 by convicts who worked in waist-deep water while wearing iron leg-chains.

Kingston Pier is located adjacent to the original landing site of Lt Phillip Gidley King, who first set foot on Norfolk Island in March 1788, just six weeks after the founding of the new colony in Sydney, Australia.

A view of Kingston Pier from the original landing place where Lt Phillip Gidley King first stepped ashore Norfolk Island in 1788.

A view of Kingston Pier from the original landing place where Lt Phillip Gidley King first stepped ashore Norfolk Island in 1788.

The pier was built between 1839 and 1849 using limestone cut from the reef. The original design called for a longer pier but conditions proved impossible for the convicts who worked ‘up to their armpits‘ in rough seas while wearing leg irons.

Kingston Boatyard

A retired 'Lighter' boat in the Kingston boatyard.

A retired ‘Lighter’ boat in the Kingston boatyard.

Next to Kingston Pier is the Kingston boatshed and boatyard. During the penal settlement, the boatshed served as the Police Office. The boatyard is now home to some retired ‘Lighter’ boats which were used in the past to transfer goods to the island from ships moored offshore.

HMS Sirius Museum

A memorial to the HMS Sirius outside the HMS Sirius museum in Kingston.

A memorial to the HMS Sirius outside the HMS Sirius museum in Kingston.

Located in the former Protestant Chapel, in the compound adjacent to the New Gaol, the HMS Sirius museum is dedicated to the HMS Sirius, flagship of the First Fleet, which was wrecked just offshore in 1790.

No. 10 Quality Row Museum

Considered a 1st class house, the property at No.10 Quality Row has been converted into a museum.

Considered a 1st class house, the property at No.10 Quality Row has been converted into a museum.

Fully restored in the 1980’s, No. 10 Quality Row was built as the residence for the Foreman of the Works and was completed in 1844. Its first inhabitants, Thomas Seller and Robert Orford, were responsible for the building programmes in Kingston. Today it serves as a museum which provides an insight into life on the island during the 2nd penal settlement.

The house includes period furnishings and a curious trap-door which is installed in the bedroom between two beds. Outside, the grounds features a beautiful colonial period garden including a Red Hibiscus (front-left corner of garden) which is over 150 years old.

A trapdoor in the bedroom at the No.10 Quality Row museum.

A trapdoor in the bedroom at the No.10 Quality Row museum.

No. 9 Quality Row 

The beautifully restored "No. 9 Quality Row House" is home to the KAVHA Research and Information Centre.

The beautifully restored “No. 9 Quality Row House” is home to the KAVHA Research and Information Centre.

Located next door, the fully restored Georgian house at No. 9 Quality Row is home to the KAVHA Research and Information Centre. The centre, which maintains a microfilm collection of original records dating back to 1788, is open to everyone and can assist those who wish to trace ancestors.

Norfolk Island Cemetery

Reminders of the convict penal settlement, including those who were executed, can be found in historic Kingston.

Reminders of the convict penal settlement, including those who were executed, can be found in historic Kingston.

Norfolk Island has just one cemetery, located at Kingston, on the shores of the aptly named Cemetery Bay. All burials on the island, from the first settlement to the present day, have taken place here.

With such a turbulent past, a visit to the cemetery is a must, with gravestones from the 2nd settlement for those convicts who were executed, soldiers who were killed by convicts, civilians who were brutally murdered and other gruesome, tragic endings.

A gravestone in the Kingston cemetery for Dinah Adams, the eldest daughter of John Adams, one of the Bounty mutineers.

A gravestone in the Kingston cemetery for Dinah Adams, the eldest daughter of John Adams, one of the Bounty mutineers.

Gravestones from the 3rd settlement (the Pitcairn Islanders) are grouped together, with rows for members from the Christian, Quintal and McCoy families.

The gravesite of Colleen McCullough, a famous Australian author who was a prominent resident of Norfolk Island.

The gravesite of Colleen McCullough, a famous Australian author who was a prominent resident of Norfolk Island.

One of the more famous recent residents of Norfolk Island, the Australian author – Colleen McCullough – is also buried in the cemetery in a very simple, unpretentious grave.

Murderers’ Mound

Located outside the eastern fence of the cemetery is 'Murderers' Mound' - a mass grave.

Located outside the eastern fence of the cemetery is ‘Murderers’ Mound’ – a mass grave.

Located outside the eastern fence of the cemetery (overlooking Cemetery bay), a raised mound of earth is the final resting place of twelve convicts who were executed for their involvement in the ‘Cooking Pot Riot‘.

Cemetery Bay

Cemetery Bay offers good bathing and snorkelling.

Cemetery Bay offers good bathing and snorkelling.

Adjacent to the cemetery is the aptly named Cemetery bay which is a popular swimming and snorkelling beach.

A view of Cemetery bay which is adjacent to the cemetery.

A view of Cemetery bay which is adjacent to the cemetery.

Norfolk Island Golf Club

Located in Kingston, the picturesque Norfolk Island Golf course is popular with residents and visitors.

Located in Kingston, the picturesque Norfolk Island Golf course is popular with residents and visitors.

Also next to the Cemetery is the very popular and picturesque Norfolk Island Golf Club which has the distinction of being the only golf course in the world located within a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The lush, green, course is surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and features plenty of Norfolk Island pine trees as obstacles. The course is popular with locals and visitors, many of whom haul their golf bags to the island.

The golf club is housed in an historic building, at No 1. Quality Row, which was constructed in 1841 as the residence of the Stipendiary magistrate.

Bloody Bridge

A view of the convict-built Bloody Bridge on Norfolk Island.

A view of the convict-built Bloody Bridge on Norfolk Island.

Located a short drive beyond the cemetery, the gory-sounding Bloody Bridge was built during the 2nd settlement by convicts, to provide a safe passage over a stream which was prone to flooding.

The reason for its name is believed to be based on a story about the death of a convict work-gang overseer. Apparently, during construction, the convicts killed the overseer and entombed him in the bridge. The next day the replacement overseer saw blood oozing from the bridge.

The Salthouse

Built in 1846, the Salthouse at Emily Bay was designed to retain sea water which was evaporated to form salt.

Built in 1846, the Salthouse at Emily Bay was designed to retain sea water which was evaporated to form salt.

Salt was a valuable commodity for any remote settlement, especially being used to preserve meat. The Salthouse at Emily bay was designed to retain sea water, which was then partially evaporated, before being moved into salt pans where the evaporation process was sped up using fire.

For snorkellers, the reef in front of the Salthouse offers excellent snorkelling.

Emily Bay and Lone Pine

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

A view of Emily Bay, the most popular swimming beach on Norfolk Island.

Emily bay is the best swimming beach on Norfolk Island and offers very good snorkelling on either side of the bay.

A view of Emily Bay and the iconic Lone pine at Point Hunter.

A view of Emily Bay and the iconic Lone pine at Point Hunter.

How old is the iconic Lone Pine at Point Hunter? Apparently, it was featured in the first artist drawing of Emily bay which was painted by a member of the original landing party in 1788.

Swimming at beautiful Emily Bay should be done on a daily basis.

Swimming at beautiful Emily Bay should be done on a daily basis.

Slaughter Bay

A view of Slaughter bay which offers excellent snorkelling.

A view of Slaughter bay which offers excellent snorkelling.

Located next to Emily bay, the much rockier Slaughter Bay offers excellent snorkelling.

West Coast

Hundred Acres Reserve

The Hundred Acres Reserve is home to some impressive flora, including a number of towering Moreton Bay figs.

The Hundred Acres Reserve is home to some impressive flora, including a number of towering Moreton Bay figs.

Located opposite an impressive row of towering Moreton Bay fig trees on Headstone road, the Hundred Acres Reserve is the largest remaining coastal Norfolk Pine and White Oak tree forest on the island.

A view of the South Coast of Norfolk Island from the 100 Acres Reserve.

A view of the South Coast of Norfolk Island from the 100 Acres Reserve.

The reserve features a circuitous hiking trail which descends to coastal cliffs where Red-tailed tropic birds and Mutton-birds build their nests. During the day, Red-tailed tropic birds can be seen performing their usual acrobatics offshore.

A soaring Red-tailed Tropicbird at the 100 Acres Reserve.

A soaring Red-tailed Tropicbird at the 100 Acres Reserve.

The trail through the forest passes under towering Norfolk Island pines, where White terns lay their eggs on exposed branches and Black Noddy birds’ nest on the higher branches.

Headstone Point

The memorial headstone at Headstone Point.

The memorial headstone at Headstone Point.

Named after a memorial marker for two soldiers who drowned while fishing in 1850, and whose bodies were never found, Headstone Point offers panoramic views from the top of 70-metre-high cliffs which rise above the west coast.

The view from the lookout at Headstone Point.

The view from the lookout at Headstone Point.

St. Barnabas Chapel

Completed in 1880, the very fine St. Barnabas Chapel was the principal church of the Church of England’s missionary work in Melanesia.

Completed in 1880, the very fine St. Barnabas Chapel was the principal church of the Church of England’s missionary work in Melanesia.

The beautiful St. Barnabas Chapel is all that remains of the once large Melanesian Mission which was established on Norfolk Island by the Church of England from 1866-1924.

Completed in 1880, the impressive stone chapel was built as a memorial to Bishop Patterson who was killed by natives in the Solomon Islands in 1871. It is considered one of the finest historic buildings in the South Pacific.

Part of the stained-glass rose window in St. Barnabas Chapel.

Part of the stained-glass rose window in St. Barnabas Chapel.

The opulent internal fittings include an incredible stained-glass rose window designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones who also designed the four windows in the apse which depict the four evangelists.

The wooden ceiling of St Barnabas Chapel was built to resemble the upturned hull of a boat.

The wooden ceiling of St Barnabas Chapel was built to resemble the upturned hull of a boat.

The impressive wooden ceiling was built to resemble the upturned hull of a ship and is much more impressive when you know it has been assembled without the use of nails.

The 350 Willis pipe organ was built by Henry Willis & Sons of London in 1880 and shipped to the island in pieces.

The 350 Willis pipe organ was built by Henry Willis & Sons of London in 1880 and shipped to the island in pieces.

The floor of the chapel is made from coloured marble which was shipped to the island in pieces and assembled like a giant jigsaw puzzle, which was also the case for the pipe organ.

Puppy’s Point

A view of the west coast of Norfolk Island from Puppy's Point Lookout.

A view of the west coast of Norfolk Island from Puppy’s Point Lookout.

Puppy’s Point offers stunning views of the west coast and the sea and apparently gets its name from the fact that the point looks like a dog when viewed from the sea.

Anson Bay

Anson bay is a popular surfing beach and the best place to view a sunset on Norfolk Island.

Anson bay is a popular surfing beach and the best place to view a sunset on Norfolk Island.

Located at the top of the west coast, the dramatically situated Anson bay is the one surf beach on the Norfolk Island. Access is via a steep and windy pedestrian trail which descends down to the beach from the roadside carpark (near to where this photo was taken).

The sun sets directly in front of the beach, making this the best place on Norfolk Island to view sunset.

Interior & North Coast

Norfolk Island National Park & Botanic Garden

The best view of Norfolk Island is from the lookout on Mount Pitt, which is part of the Norfolk Island National Park.

The best view of Norfolk Island is from the lookout on Mount Pitt, which is part of the Norfolk Island National Park.

Occupying a 6.50 km2 (2.51 square mi) section of the interior, the Norfolk Island National Park and the Botanical Gardens were established in 1984 and are a highlight for those who have any interest in the fauna and flora of the island.

The highest points on the island, Mount Bates and Mount Pitt, offer the best views over the island and are a great place to get your bearings. You can drive to the summit of Mount Pitt, while Mount Bates is accessed via a hiking trail.

Captain Cook’s Monument

The Captain Cook monument and scenic lookout stand at the spot on the northern coast where Captain James Cook and his officers landed in 1774.

The Captain Cook monument and scenic lookout stand at the spot on the northern coast where Captain James Cook and his officers landed in 1774.

Located at the end of a lonely road on the north coast, the Captain Cook monument and lookout stand at the spot close to where Captain James Cook and his officers landed in 1774.

An obelisk, which was completed in 1953, commemorates the discovery of the uninhabited island by Cook. Beyond the obelisk, a lookout provides the most stunning views of the islands off the north coast which serve as breeding grounds for nesting seabirds.

A view of the north coast of Norfolk Island from Captain Cook's lookout with the islands of (l-r) Bird Rock, Green Pool and Cathedral Rock.

A view of the north coast of Norfolk Island from Captain Cook’s lookout with the islands of (l-r) Bird Rock, Green Pool and Cathedral Rock.

Cascade Pier

There are no mooring facilities at Norfolk Island so vessels must be winched out of the water after every use.

There are no mooring facilities at Norfolk Island so vessels must be winched out of the water after every use.

Located on the spectacular north coast, Cascade pier is the 2nd of the two piers on Norfolk Island, and is the landing point for all shipments to the island. It is also the arrival point for all cruise ship passengers who are transferred to shore by tenders.

Due to the fact that there is no safe harbour on the island, all vessels are winched in and out of the water after every use. The photo above shows our dive boat being removed from the water after our scuba diving.

The Australian government has recently spent millions of dollars rebuilding the pier and installing a new, larger winch.

East Coast

Ball Bay

A view of Ball Bay on the east coast of Norfolk Island.

A view of Ball Bay on the east coast of Norfolk Island.

Ball bay is named after Rear-Admiral Henry Lidgbird Ball who discovered Lord Howe Island and was entrusted with shipping the first group of settlers from Botany Bay to Norfolk Island in 1788.

The bay is home to the island’s petroleum storage facility with tanker supply ships mooring offshore and refilling the tanks via a floating pipe.

Two Chimneys Wines

The small vineyard at Two Chimneys Wines on Norfolk Island.

The small vineyard at Two Chimneys Wines on Norfolk Island.

Established in 2003, Two Chimneys Wines is the first and only winery on Norfolk Island.

The small vineyard is planted with five varieties of grape which allows the winery to produce a small amount of red, white and sparkling wines, all of which are available for tasting and purchase at their cellar door.

A selection of wines from Two Chimneys Wines, the only winery on Norfolk Island.

A selection of wines from Two Chimneys Wines, the only winery on Norfolk Island.

Two Chimneys Lookout

A view over the east coast of Norfolk Island from Two Chimneys reserve.

A view over the east coast of Norfolk Island from Two Chimneys reserve.

Around the corner from the winery, the road dead-ends at the Two Chimneys reserve which offers panoramic views over the east coast.

Accommodation

One of two bedrooms in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa with a private garden and sitting area out the back.

One of two bedrooms in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa with a private garden and sitting area out the back.

For such a small island, Norfolk Island offers a wealth of accommodation options ranging from guest houses, hotels, self-contained apartments, cottages and more with all price categories covered. A useful starting point is the Accommodation directory on the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre website.

Most options are located in and around Burnt Pine, while further afield, various properties offer panoramic views of the islands’ dramatic coastal scenery.

Accommodation providers will arrange airport shuttle services, often through a local tour company, which often includes a complimentary half-day island tour.

The living room in my spacious unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

The living room in my spacious unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

While on Norfolk Island, I stayed for eight nights in a self-contained, 2-bedroom/ 2-bathroom apartment at the wonderful Cumberland Resort and Spa which is located in Burnt Pine. For a single traveller, it was way too much space, but I lapped it up!

The fully equipped kitchen in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

The fully equipped kitchen in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

The Cumberland offers a variety of room options with rates available on their website. I booked my room using booking.com which offered a discounted price at the time. While I stayed as a single guest, my apartment could comfortably accommodate 4 people and included a large outdoor area at the front and rear of the apartment and a large BBQ.

The outdoor area of my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa, which included a BBQ.

The outdoor area of my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa, which included a BBQ.

One of my bathrooms included a spa bath while a heated pool was also available for use.

One of two bathrooms, in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa, which included a spa bath.

One of two bathrooms, in my unit at the Cumberland Resort and Spa, which included a spa bath.

My room rate included a Resort rental car for which I had to pay the compulsory Norfolk Island insurance charge of A$32 per day.

Exploring Norfolk Island in my rental car from the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

Exploring Norfolk Island in my rental car from the Cumberland Resort and Spa.

I enjoyed my stay at the Cumberland Resort and Spa and definitively didn’t want to leave. If you want a home-away-from-home on Norfolk Island, which is a short walk from downtown Burnt Pine and includes excellent service and amenities, then the Cumberland Resort and Spa is highly recommended!

Eating Out

Food Glorious Food!

Food doesn’t come any more glorious than the flavour-packed, organic produce that is grown in the rich volcanic soil of Norfolk Island. Forget the bland supermarket produce found on mainland Australia, biting into anything grown on Norfolk Island is a pleasure for your taste buds.

Sampling this produce can be done at any of the local restaurants and cafes listed here.

Restaurants

The Homestead

Norfolk Island Trumpeter fish served in a Thai curry sauce at The Homestead restaurant.

Norfolk Island Trumpeter fish served in a Thai curry sauce at The Homestead restaurant.

If you choose just one place on Norfolk Island for dinner, it should be The Homestead restaurant, which is set in a beautifully restored island home, among the towering Moreton Bay figs adjacent to the 100 Acres reserve. This is the restaurant of choice whenever the island administrator hosts a dinner function for a visiting VIP.

The menu includes simple, local produce which is cooked on a wood-fuelled Argentinian Perilla grill, which infuses the food with a maximum of flavour. Meals are served with a side of homemade sourdough bread – Norfolk’s only wood-fired sourdough!

For dinner, I chose the grilled local Trumpeter fish which was served in a Thai curry sauce. It was divine!

The Homestead is open Thursday to Sunday for dinner.

Bounty Bar & Grill 

Norfolk Island Scotch fillet served at the Bounty Bar & Grill.

Norfolk Island Scotch fillet served at the Bounty Bar & Grill.

As you drive around Norfolk Island, you can’t help but notice the numerous cows grazing on the side of the road, although occasionally they wander onto the road and they know they have right-of-way!

If seeing all these cows makes you hungry for some island beef, the best place to head is the Bounty Bar & Grill where the selection of steaks will have even the keenest of carnivores salivating. I ordered a 300-gram Scotch Fillet which was cooked to pink perfection.

The perfect end to a meal, Kahlua Crème brûlée, served at the Bounty Bar & Grill.

The perfect end to a meal, Kahlua Crème brûlée, served at the Bounty Bar & Grill.

The desserts are also worth mentioning, especially the Kahlua crème brûlée and, unlike most other places on the island, where kitchens close around 8 pm, the Bounty kicks on a little later.

Hilli Restaurant & Cafe

The warm and inviting Hilli restaurant and cafe on Norfolk Island, the perfect place for a lazy lunch.

The warm and inviting Hilli restaurant and cafe on Norfolk Island, the perfect place for a lazy lunch.

Attached to the Cyclorama complex on Queen Elizabeth Ave, the Hilli Restaurant & Cafe is open Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Mondays for lunch and dinner. ‘

The exposed walls of the Hilli restaurant were once typical of all homes on Norfolk Island.

The exposed walls of the Hilli restaurant were once typical of all homes on Norfolk Island.

The word ‘hilli‘ is a Norfolk Island word which describes a feeling of laziness, which is fitting for a restaurant that encourages you to unwind and relax over a lazy lunch.

One feature to note is the open, exposed walls which were once typical of all homes on the island – before the arrival of gyprock plasterboard.

Devonshire tea at the Hilli restaurant.

Devonshire tea at the Hilli restaurant.

Prior to lunch, the Hilli restaurant offers a Devonshire Tea Service from 10 am, which features the most amazing scones, served with locally made Guava jelly and cream.

Norfolk Island Bowling Club

Located on the main street of Burnt Pine, the Norfolk Island Bowling club is the nicest of the three clubs in town. The modern restaurant serves standard club food with the kitchen closing at 8 pm.

Norfolk Island RSL Club

The perfect end to a meal, Kahlua Crème brûlée, served at the Bounty Bar & Grill.

The Norfolk Island RSL is a popular place for food, drinks, entertainment and free Wi-Fi!

Also located on the main street of Burnt Pine, a short walk from the Bowling club, the Norfolk Island RSL club is one of the liveliest places on the island with live music, meat-tray raffles and meals served until 8 pm. It’s also the only place in town offering free wi-fi.

Cafés

The Olive

Breakfast at The Olive cafe on Norfolk Island.

Breakfast at The Olive cafe on Norfolk Island.

As far as cafes go, The Olive is the main game in town. Located in downtown Burnt Pine, there is good reason this is the busiest cafe in town. From the excellent coffee to the amazing menu, The Olive never disappoints!

Especially recommended is their Coconut Bread which is served ‘Banoffee-pie-style’ with a thick slice of coconut bread, topped with sliced bananas, which are drizzled with caramel sauce then topped with whipped cream. All with zero calories of course!

The coffee loyalty card at The Olive cafe.

The coffee loyalty card at The Olive cafe.

If you’re on the island for any length of time, it’s worth picking up the coffee loyalty card at The Olive which entitles you to a free coffee after 6 purchases!

High Tide Kitchen

Located on the main street of Burnt Pine, the High Tide Kitchen is a modern restaurant/ cafe which is open from 7:30 am to 5 pm. Most cafes on the island close around 2 pm so this is an ideal option if you’re looking for a late-afternoon caffeine kick!

The menu includes wraps, sandwiches, pasta, hamburgers, local fish and chips, cakes, milkshakes and much more.

Cafe Tempo

Located in the heart of downtown Burnt Pine, Cafe Tempo is open from 7:30 am to 4:00 pm, seven days a week and offers a menu brimming with tasty breakfast and lunch options.

The Golden Orb Bookshop & Cafe

The Golden Orb Bookshop & Cafe on Norfolk Island.

The Golden Orb Bookshop & Cafe on Norfolk Island.

If you have any interest in Scuba Diving, you need to meet Jack, the owner of the Golden Orb Bookshop & Cafe which is located in the heart of Burnt Pine and is open from 7:00 am, 5 days a week (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays).

Jack could be described as the Jacques Cousteau of Norfolk Island. Now retired from diving, Jack told me he has done more than 5,000 dives around the island. In the corner of the cafe is an antique diving tank with an old BCD-type apparatus attached. A true diving relic, Jack used this equipment on dives during the 1960’s.

Aside from fascinating diving tales, Jack is a master Barista, serving very good coffee while his wife cooks up a storm in the kitchen. As per the name, the cafe is also a bookshop which stocks every book every written on or about Norfolk Island. This is a favourite cafe with locals who like to gather around the big, communal outdoor table.

Prinke Eco Store

Sharyn (left) and Claire Quintal, the co-founders of Prinke Eco Store, at the Thanksgiving Food Festival in Kingston.

Sharyn (left) and Claire Quintal, the co-founders of Prinke Eco Store, at the Thanksgiving Food Festival in Kingston.

Under the command of the wonderful Sharyn Quintal, the Prinke Eco Store’s goal is to reduce waste on Norfolk Island. If you want a takeaway coffee, it’ll be served in a pottery cup which you are required to return to the store.

While no food is served, the organic coffee is full of flavour and Sharyn offers a small selection of organic, vegan sweet treats. I especially recommend the Brazilian Chocolate bar!

The shop serves as the island’s supplier of bulk organic foods with locals arriving with containers which they fill with homemade granola, nuts, herbs, spices and more. Apart from food, you’ll find some locally made products such as handmade soaps.

Bars

Beer tasting at the Norfolk Island Brewery.

Beer tasting at the Norfolk Island Brewery.

The bar scene on Norfolk Island consists of three clubs – the RSL club, Bowling club and the Leagues club which line the main street of Burnt Pine, all of which wind down around 8:30 pm.

Two restaurants offer bars – the Bounty Grill & Bar and the Castaway restaurant which is the home of Norfolk Island Brewing the only brewery on the island.

At the time of my visit, there were seven craft beers available for tasting. In the interest of research, I tasted all 7! My favourite was the Coffee Dunkle, a dark, German-style beer with a strong coffee taste – the espresso-martini of the craft beer world.

Friday is the best evening for a beer tasting when the Castaway restaurant serves wood-fired pizzas, which pair perfectly with the craft beers. Reservations are recommended as pizza bases are limited!

Visa Requirements

A Norfolk Island souvenir passport stamp, issued by the Norfolk Island Visitors' centre in Burnt Pine.

A Norfolk Island souvenir passport stamp, issued by the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre in Burnt Pine.

Travel to Norfolk Island from Australia is considered domestic travel. There are no entry formalities on the island however a photo ID is required for travel. While many people travel with their driver’s licence, it’s best to take your passport in case your flight there or back is diverted to another country.

By carrying your passport, you can also get a souvenir passport stamp from the Norfolk Island Visitors’ centre in Burnt Pine.

Rather annoyingly, although the flight is considered ‘domestic’, you need to complete an Australian arrival card to enter Norfolk Island and then, on the return trip, you need to complete a 2nd Australian arrival card to re-enter Australia! You also need to pass through immigration and customs upon arrival in Australia! Crazy!

You can check the current visa policy of Australia on Wikipedia.

Getting There

Onboard Air NZ flight NZ912 from Sydney to Norfolk Island.

Onboard Air NZ flight NZ912 from Sydney to Norfolk Island.

Air

Norfolk Island Airport (IATA: NLK) is the only airport on Norfolk Island. The original aerodrome was constructed in 1942 following a request to the Australian government from the United States Department of Defence which wanted an aerodrome for use by its heavy bombers during WWII.

The aerodrome was constructed by volunteers from New South Wales government departments and a team of 300 islanders. A second, cross-runway, was added in February, 1943.

The terminal at Norfolk Island Airport.

The terminal at Norfolk Island Airport.

Controversially, the construction of the runways necessitated the destruction of Pine Avenue, a local landmark which consisted of about 500 towering Norfolk Island pines. The airport occupies about 80% of the best farmland on the island!

An Air NZ flight arriving at Norfolk Island airport.

An Air NZ flight arriving at Norfolk Island airport.

Flights to the island are operated by Air New Zealand with several flights each week connecting the island to Sydney and Brisbane.

Normally bustling with travellers, a deserted International terminal at Sydney International airport during the Covid-19 pandemic. The flight to Norfolk Island was one of just 12 flights departing that day.

Normally bustling with travellers, a deserted International terminal at Sydney International airport during the Covid-19 pandemic. The flight to Norfolk Island was one of just 12 flights departing that day.

Travelling from Australia to Norfolk Island is considered domestic travel, however, all flights operate from the International terminals in Sydney and Brisbane.

Departing Norfolk Island on Air New Zealand.

Departing Norfolk Island on Air New Zealand.

The following airlines operate scheduled services to/from Norfolk Island:

Departing Norfolk Island on Air New Zealand.

Departing Norfolk Island on Air New Zealand.

Airport Transport

Shuttle services from/to the airport are provided by accommodation operators who often use the services of local tour companies such as Baunti Tours or Pinetree Tours.

Sea

Occasional cruise ships call at Norfolk Island with ships mooring offshore from Cascade pier, and local tenders providing shuttle services to shore. You can check the current cruise ship schedule here.

Getting Around

Cows grazing around my rental car on Norfolk Island.

Cows grazing around my rental car on Norfolk Island.

Public Transport

There is no public transport on Norfolk Island.

Taxi

There is one taxi available on the island, Uber Steve, who can be contacted at +672 3 53840. Despite his name, you will not find Steve on Uber!

Rental Car

The best way to maximise your time on Norfolk Island is with a rental car. Driving is very relaxed with roads mostly free of traffic and cars able to park almost anywhere.

Norfolk Island is very laid-back! A place where locals don’t lock their cars and often leave their keys in the ignition with their windows wound down. It’s all very relaxed, everyone knows everyone and if someone did steal a car, where would they go?

A Norfolk Island license plate.

A Norfolk Island license plate.

While driving on the island there are a few special road rules to note:

  • Cows have right of way!
  • The speed limit around the island is 50km/hr, while in Burnt Pine it’s 40km/hr. Cow grids on all approach roads mark the town limits and it’s here where the speed zone changes.
  • Driving is on the left-hand side of the road.
  • Seatbelts are compulsory.
  • The school zone speed limit is 30km/h which applies between the hours of 8.00am and 3.30pm during school days.

Apart from a handful of rental agents, many accommodation providers also offer rental cars. While on the island, I rented a car through my hotel – Cumberland Resort and Spa.

Car rental agents include:

 


That’s the end of my travel guide for Norfolk Island. I look forward to your feedback should you use this in planning a trip to the island. 

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Following is a list of my travel reports from the Pacific region:

Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide Norfolk Island Travel Guide

Norfolk Island Travel Guide