Tag - Micronesia

Chuuk Photo Gallery

A shop in downtown Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

Chuuk Photo Gallery

This is a Chuuk Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Chuuk Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Guam Photo Gallery

View south to Tumon Bay from Two Lovers Point.

Guam Photo Gallery

This is a Guam Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Guam Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Kiribati Photo Gallery

On approach to Maiama island - one of the outer islands.

Kiribati Photo Gallery

This is a Kiribati Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Kiribati Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Kosrae Photo Gallery

The profile of the mountain range on Kosrae is said to resemble a sleeping lady.

Kosrae Photo Gallery

This is a Kosrae Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Kosrae Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Marshall Islands Photo Gallery

Stormy skies over Majuro Lagoon as seen from MIR.

Marshall Islands Photo Gallery

This is a Marshall Islands Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Marshall Islands Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Nauru Photo Gallery

One of the judges at the Miss Nauru 2020 contest, Ms Ruby Amram.

Nauru Photo Gallery

This is a Nauru Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Nauru Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Palau Photo Gallery

Detail of a traditional Bai at the Belau National museum.

Palau Photo Gallery

This is a Palau Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Palau Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Pohnpei Photo Gallery

Very cute! Flower Girl on Pohnpei.

Pohnpei Photo Gallery

This is a Pohnpei Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Pohnpei Travel Guide


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Nauru Travel Guide

Cover Photo: Anibare Bay, Nauru.

Nauru Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Nauru Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2020

Introduction

At just 21 km2 (8.1 sq. mi), Nauru is the smallest republic in the world, being slightly larger than the 20 km2 of land which is occupied by John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York City.

A view of the limestone pinnacles at Anibare Bay.

A view of the limestone pinnacles at Anibare Bay.

A small, isolated coral island, Nauru is surrounded by a shallow, rocky, coral reef. This Pacific nation, which lies well off the beaten tourist track, lacks many of the tourist facilities of some of its larger neighbours, such as Fiji.

There are no resorts, no fancy restaurants or any decent swimming beaches. There are very few services which would cater to visiting holiday makers, although an Office of Tourism was scheduled to open at the Menen Hotel in April of 2020.

Have to love wonderful Nauru!

Have to love wonderful Nauru!

It’s interior plateau, which is known as ‘Topside’, occupies 80% of the island, and has been the site of unfettered phosphate mining for more than a century. This has left Topside looking like a lunar wasteland.

Exposed limestone pinnacles on Topside, the remnants of a former phosphate mine.

Exposed limestone pinnacles on Topside, the remnants of a former phosphate mine.

While current visitor numbers are not available from the United Nations World Travel Organisation (UNWTO), it is claimed that Nauru is the least visited country in the world, attracting around 200 visitors per year.

By comparison, Tuvalu (click to view my Tuvalu Travel Guide), which also claims to be the least visited country in the world, attracted 2,700 visitors in 2018, although most of these were business travellers.

A view of Anibare Bay, Nauru.

A view of Anibare Bay, Nauru.

While Nauru is not your standard travel destination, it is an engaging and surprising island. This is the island which was named ‘Pleasant Island‘ by the first European visitors, after their favourable encounter with the locals. The real asset of Nauru are the Nauruans themselves, who are warm, welcoming, friendly and kind.

Nauru has plenty of potential as a tourist destination and it seems the current government is determined to develop that potential. Now is a great time to visit Nauru, before the hordes arrive.

A playground on Nauru.

A playground on Nauru.

Location

Yaren, Nauru

Nauru is a small, oval-shaped, raised coral island, located in south-eastern Micronesia, 53 km (33 miles) south of the Equator.

Truly remote, Nauru’s closest neighbour (click the links to view my travel guides for the countries listed) is Kiribati whose most westerly island, Banaba (population: 295), lies 300 km (186 mi) to the east of Nauru.

A signboard outside of the Capelle and Partner supermarket indicates distances to different countries from Nauru.

A signboard outside of the Capelle and Partner supermarket indicates distances to different countries from Nauru.

More distant neighbours include the Solomon Islands which lies 1,300 km (800 mi) to the southwest; Tuvalu which is 1,395 km (866 mi) to the southeast; Marshall Islands which lies 973 km (605 mi) to the northeast; Papua New Guinea which is 2,628 km (1,633 mi) to the southwest; Vanuatu; which lies 1,651 km (1,026 mi) to the south and the Federated States of Micronesia which is 2,019 km (1,254 mi) to the northwest.

A view of Ewa beach, which lies on the north coast of Nauru.

A view of Ewa beach, which lies on the north coast of Nauru.

A major logistical and lifestyle hub for Nauru is Brisbane, Australia which is 3,341 km (2076 mi) to the southeast.

Brisbane airport serves as a base and maintenance centre for Nauru Airlines, while wealthier Nauruans travel to Brisbane on shopping trips, send their children to tertiary institutions in the city and even maintain 2nd homes there.

Brisbane is also the location of a Nauru Consulate General (see the Visa section for more details), one of just four diplomatic missions around the world.

The only wildlife to be found on remote Nauru are the occasional migrating seabird such as Brown Noddy's, which are a common sight on the beaches.

The only wildlife to be found on remote Nauru are the occasional migrating seabird such as Brown Noddy’s, which are a common sight on the beaches.

Micronesia

A map of the region of Micronesia.

A map of the region of Micronesia.
Source: Wikipedia

The region of Micronesia lies between the Philippines and Hawaii, occupying a large patch of the Central Pacific, encompassing more than 2,000 islands, most of which are small and many of which are found in clusters.

The term Micronesia is derived from the Greek words mikros (meaning ‘small’) and nēsoi (meaning ‘islands’). The first usage of the term is attributed to Jules Dumont d’Urville, a French explorer and Naval officer who explored the region in 1832.

The region includes, from west to east, Palau, Guam (click to read my travel guides), the Northern Mariana Islands, the Federated States of Micronesia, the Marshall Islands, Nauru, and Kiribati. With the exception of Nauru and Kiribati, all the islands of Micronesia lie to the north of the Equator.

Nauru holds the distinction of being the first Micronesian country to become a sovereign nation, gaining independence in 1968.

The Nauruans are a mixture of Micronesian, Polynesian and Melanesian descent.

The Nauruans are a mixture of Micronesian, Polynesian and Melanesian descent.

The origin of the Nauruan people has not yet been fully determined. They are a mixture of Micronesian, Polynesian and Melanesian descent and are comprised of 12 tribes, as symbolised by the 12-pointed star on the Nauru flag (see the ‘Flag‘ section below).

The original settlers to the region were Austronesian peoples who migrated from Southeast Asia and Taiwan into present-day Micronesia around 1,500 BC.

A map showing the three distinct cultural regions of the Pacific.

A map showing the three distinct cultural regions of the Pacific.
Source: Wikipedia

From Micronesia, different migrations at different times in history took these Austronesian explorers further into the vast expanses of the Pacific ocean, where they eventually settled the islands of Melanesia (first migration around 1,300 BC) and finally the more distant islands of Polynesia (first migration around 800 BC), finally reaching the most easterly island, Easter Island, around 700 – 800 AD.

Following are a list of travel guides I have written for each of these three regions:

Melanesia

Micronesia

Polynesia

People

The children of Nauru are incredibly friendly and love posing for the camera.

The children of Nauru are incredibly friendly and love posing for the camera.

The history of human activity on Nauru began roughly 3,000 years ago when twelve Micronesian and Polynesian clans settled the island. For most of its history, the tribes of Nauru enjoyed a quiet, secluded existence on their remote paradise island.

Activities included aquaculture (including operating an ancient version of a fish farm in the Buada lagoon), harvesting coconuts and savouring the occasional Brown Noddy (I was assured they are tasty).

Young girls on Nauru.

Young girls on Nauru.

The first European contact came in November of 1798, when British Captain John Fearn, of the whaling ship ‘Hunter‘, approached the island. The crew did not land, nor did any locals board the ship, but many canoes came to welcome the ship, which left a favourable impression and resulted in Fearn naming the island, Pleasant Island.

Boys posing in front of a giant flag of Nauru which adorns the wall of the Civic centre.

Boys posing in front of a giant flag of Nauru which adorns the wall of the Civic centre.

As of July 2018, independent Nauru was home to 10,670 residents, making it the second least populated sovereign state, after the Vatican City which has a population of just 799 pious souls!

The Nauruans are wonderfully laid-back, relaxed, friendly and always made me feel welcome, a very pleasant island indeed!

Miss Nauru 2020

'Miss Nauru Cenpac 2020', Ofa Fay Temaki competing in the final evening of the competition.

‘Miss Nauru Cenpac 2020’, Ofa Fay Temaki competing in the final evening of the competition.

My visit to Nauru coincided with the ‘Miss Nauru 2020‘ contest which saw eight contestants competing for the title of Miss Nauru 2020.

One of the judges at the Miss Nauru 2020 contest, Ms Ruby Amram.

One of the judges at the Miss Nauru 2020 contest, Ms Ruby Amram.

The finale of the competition saw the contestants competing over three nights in different fashion categories, which included best sarong, white dress, traditional island couture and formal wear. They were also asked a series of questions and judged on their talent, singing ability and interview skills.

Some of the contestants represented different districts, such as Miss Yaren - Brutay Tatum.

Some of the contestants represented different districts, such as Miss Yaren – Brutay Tatum.

A highlight of the Nauru cultural calendar, the final night of the competition drew a large, enthusiastic crowd, including the president, Lionel Rouwen Aingimea.

Miss Menen, My-Gem Tatum, represented the district of Meneng, which is home to the Hotel Menen.

Miss Menen, My-Gem Tatum, represented the district of Meneng, which is home to the Hotel Menen.

Nauru Music

Local performer, James Vaele, keeping the crowds entertained during the Miss Nauru 2020 competition.

Local performer, James Vaele, keeping the crowds entertained during the Miss Nauru 2020 competition.

There’s a small, budding music scene on tiny Nauru and during the Miss Nauru 2020 contest, the crowds were kept entertained by a local singer/ songwriter, James Vaele who has written a number of songs which are dedicated to his island home.


One of my favourite songs from James is ‘Postcard for Nauru‘, which features a catchy tune and lots of scenery from the island. You can view his YouTube video here.


Another local song, ‘Nauru Island Home‘ is also very catchy and provides more scenic views of the island.


Flag

The flag of Nauru.

The flag of Nauru.

The flag of Nauru illustrates the country’s geographical position, one degree south of the Equator. The gold stripe represents the equator, which is set on a blue field for the Pacific Ocean.

A flag of Nauru which is displayed in the lobby of the Menen hotel.

A flag of Nauru which is displayed in the lobby of the Menen hotel.

Below the equator, a 12-pointed, white star represents Nauru, with each point symbolising the twelve indigenous tribes which settled the island. The colour of the star is ‘Phosphate white’, representing the islands’ major resource and most important export.

Nauru and Taiwanese Flag

The Nauru flag flying alongside the Taiwanese flag. Taiwan provides aid to the island in exchange for Nauru recognising Taiwan’s independence.

Connectivity

A friendly Digicel staff member at the Digicel kiosk at Capelle and Partners.

A friendly Digicel staff member at the Digicel kiosk at Capelle and Partners.

Mobile Coverage

There is only one network operator on Nauru, which is not surprising for such a small market. Digicel Nauru provide excellent network coverage throughout the country, which is not too much of a challenge considering the size of the coverage area – 21 square kilometres. Digicel offer a variety of pre-paid plans, which you can view on their website.

The best option for those arriving by air (which is everyone), is to purchase a local SIM card from the friendly staff at the Digicel kiosk at the International Airport. The kiosk is staffed whenever a flight arrives.

The main branch of Digicel is located at the Civic Centre and is open from 9 am – 6 pm Monday to Friday and 9:30 am – 2:00 pm on Saturdays.

A Digicel kiosk is also available inside the supermarket at Capelle & Partners in Ewa.

Wi-Fi

WiFi Symbol.

While staying at the Menen Hotel, I enjoyed good, free, Wi-Fi. Elsewhere on the island, Wi-Fi is hard to find.

Currency

The Australian dollar is the official currency of Nauru.

The Australian dollar is the official currency of Nauru.

The official currency of Nauru is the Australian dollar (A$), which trades under the international currency code of AUD.

Nauru is one of three Pacific nations who currently use the Australian dollar as their official currency, with the other two being Kiribati and Tuvalu.

The Australian dollar, which has the distinction of being the world’s first polymer currency, comes in banknotes of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100. The dollar is divided into 100 cents (c), with coins being issued in denominations of 5c, 10c, 20c and 50c.

To check the current exchange rate between the Australian dollar and the US dollar, click here.

Banking Services

The only bank on Nauru is an agency branch of Bendigo Bank, an Australian regional bank.

The only bank on Nauru is an agency branch of Bendigo Bank, an Australian regional bank.

In June of 2015, the Australian regional bank, Bendigo Bank opened an agency branch on Nauru, the first bank on the island in 15 years.

The bank is located at the Civic Centre in Aiwo District, which is where you’ll find one of the few ATM’s on the island. One other ATM is installed in the lobby of the Menen hotel, which attracts a constant stream of locals who drop into the hotel to withdraw cash. Another ATM can be found at Capelle and Partners Pacific and Occidental Supermarket in Ewa.

If you’re visiting Nauru on a short-term basis, it’s best to bring enough Australian dollars cash to cover your time on the island.  

Credit Cards

Credits cards cannot be used on Nauru!

Payment options include cash or bank transfer to accounts held by Nauru businesses at Bendigo Bank.

While a room at the Menen hotel cost me A$185 per night, I had the option of paying cash or transferring the funds, in advance, to the hotels’ account at Bendigo Bank.

If you’re applying for a visa online, you’ll be required to transfer the visa application fee to a government account at Bendigo Bank.

Costs

The very reasonably priced menu at the Oriental (Chinese) restaurant in Aiwo district.

The very reasonably priced menu at the Oriental (Chinese) restaurant in Aiwo district.

Due to the fact that almost everything (including bottled water) on Nauru is imported from Australia, travel costs can be high, although I didn’t find them to be unreasonable. The main travel expense is accommodation, with a room at the Menen Hotel costing A$185 per night.

In some cases, Nauru is a travel bargain! For example, an Australian beer, such as a bottle of Crown Lager, cost me A$4.50 during happy hour at the Bay Restaurant. The same beer, served at an Australian restaurant, would cost double, due to higher taxes and higher operating costs.

Meals, which are mostly prepared using imported ingredients, are not too unreasonably priced, with a burger and chips meal at The Bay Restaurant priced at A$10. I always chose local fish served with salad or vegetables which cost me less than A$20.

Sample costs: 

  • Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): A$2.50 (US$1.60)
  • Water (0.33 litre bottle): A$1.50 (US$0.95)
  • Happy hour Australian beer at the Bay Restaurant: A$4.50 (US$2.85)
  • Regular Cappuccino at the Tropicana café: A$4 (US$2.50)
  • Car Rental (daily rate for a 4WD): A$80 (US$50)
  • Litre of fuel: A$2.00 (US$1.26)
  • Meal (Cheap Chinese restaurant): A$10 (US$6.30)
  • Meal for 2 (Bay Restaurant): A$30-40 (US$18-25)
  • Room at the Menen Hotel: A$185 (US$116)

Philately

The gold leaf stamp, which was issued in 2018 to commemorate 50 years of Nauru Independence and marked the reopening of Nauru Post.

The gold leaf stamp, which was issued in 2018 to commemorate 50 years of Nauru Independence and marked the reopening of Nauru Post.

The first stamps of independent Nauru were issued in 1968. Since then, the post office has issued a trickle of stamps and was completely shut down from 2011 to 2018. The one post office (located in the Civic Centre) was opened on the 5th of March, 2018 in time for the launch of a beautiful, gold leaf stamp, which commemorated 50 years of Nauru Independence.

A stamp to commemorate the 73rd anniversary of the return of Nauruans from Truk (Chuuk), after the end of WWII. The stamp depicts Muriel Cecil who is currently the oldest living Nauruan.

A stamp to commemorate the 73rd anniversary of the return of Nauruans from Truk (Chuuk), after the end of WWII. The stamp depicts Muriel Cecil who is currently the oldest living Nauruan.

Currently, the post office is working on developing an online shop, which will allow it to process overseas stamp orders, which will surely be popular with Philatelists around the world.

Until then, stamps can be purchased by contacting the Post office (email: info@naurupost.nr) or visiting the Philately counter at the Civic Centre branch, where you’ll be handed a bulging folder of stamps to peruse.

The one and only branch of Nauru Post at Civic Centre.

The one and only branch of Nauru Post at Civic Centre.

Phosphate Mining

Me holding a piece of phosphate rock at a mine site on Topside, against a sea of phosphate.

Me holding a piece of phosphate rock at a mine site on Topside, against a sea of phosphate.

What is Phosphate?

Phosphorite, or phosphate rock, is a sedimentary rock that contains high amounts of phosphate minerals. The phosphate content of phosphorite varies greatly but it is said that the phosphate from Nauru is of an exceptionally high quality.

A Stamp issue commemorating the Nauru Phosphate Corporation.

A Stamp issue commemorating the Nauru Phosphate Corporation.

The two main sources for phosphate are guano, formed from bird droppings, and rocks containing concentrations of the calcium phosphate mineral. Nauru’s phosphate deposit is the result of thousands of years of bird droppings. Guano is a highly effective fertiliser due to its exceptionally high content of all three key fertiliser ingredients – nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

Following the discovery of processes which allow for the creation of synthetic fertilisers, the demand for phosphates has declined.

A quarry of phosphate rocks at Topside.

A quarry of phosphate rocks at Topside.

How is Phosphate Used?

Phosphate being sorted into different grades at a mine on Topside.

Phosphate being sorted into different grades at a mine on Topside.

Phosphate is one of three key ingredients which are used in fertilisers. Normally, fertilisers are labelled with an ‘N-P-K’ rating, with phosphate being the ‘P’ component; nitrogen being the ‘N’ and potassium being the ‘K’.

An NPK value of ’10-5-5′ means that the fertiliser contains 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphate and 5% potassium. Phosphate is a key component for plant food and plants are key for human survival. The phosphate mined on Nauru is of an especially high quality, which makes for especially good fertiliser.

Phosphate on Nauru

Raw phosphate being graded prior to being trucked to the processing facility.

Raw phosphate being graded prior to being trucked to the processing facility.

Geographically speaking, Nauru is an isolated phosphate-rock island. The raised phosphate plateau (‘Topside‘) which covers 80% of the island, has been one giant mine site for more than a century.

Since 1906, mining companies have worked this plateau, extracting the easily-reached, high quality, phosphate which lies close to the surface. The phosphate is interspersed between calcium carbonate (i.e. limestone) pinnacles.

A former mine site on Topside. The exposed limestone pinnacles become blackened due to exposure to the elements.

A former mine site on Topside. The exposed limestone pinnacles become blackened due to exposure to the elements.

Throughout much of its modern history, the economy of Nauru has been almost wholly dependent on phosphate exports.

Briefly, during the late 1960’s and early 1970’s, at the peak of the mining boom, Nauru boasted the highest per-capita income enjoyed by any sovereign state in the world.

More than a century of mining has taken its toll, with 80% of the nation’s surface having been strip-mined and left as a scarred, barren wasteland.

A view of discarded limestone rock at a mine on Topside. Large areas of the interior of Nauru feature such wastelands.

A view of discarded limestone rock at a mine on Topside. Large areas of the interior of Nauru feature such wastelands.

Following WWI, and the defeat of the Germans, Nauru, which was then a German colony, was given in trust to Britain, Australia and New Zealand. These three governments created the, Melbourne-based, British Phosphate Commission which took over the rights to phosphate mining on the island.

In the first year of mining – 5,000 kg of phosphate were shipped to Australia. Originally, phosphate was loaded by hand from small row boats onto larger ships which had to anchor beyond the shallow reef which surrounds the island.

A photo at the Nauru Museum, from 1910, shows the small row boats which were originally used to manually load phosphate onto ships which had to anchor beyond the shallow reef.

A photo at the Nauru Museum, from 1910, shows the small row boats which were originally used to manually load phosphate onto ships which had to anchor beyond the shallow reef.

An increase in production was achieved with the construction, on the reef, of a phosphate-loading cantilever, which automated the loading of phosphate onto freighters anchored offshore.

A photo at the Nauru Museum showing the MV Sea Master being loaded with phosphate in 2016 at Cantilever #2.

A photo at the Nauru Museum showing the MV Sea Master being loaded with phosphate in 2016 at Cantilever #2.

The original Cantilever #1 was bombed by the Germans during WWII, on the 27th of December 1940. On this day, three German ships were able to easily launch attacks against an undefended Nauru, damaging the vital cantilever, which resulted in a disruption to phosphate exports and the rationing of farm fertiliser in Australia during the critical war years.

Following the war, Cantilever #2 was constructed and is the only one which remains operational today.

Built after WWII, Cantilever #2 is the only loader which remains functional today.

Built after WWII, Cantilever #2 is the only loader which remains functional today.

From 1919, until Independence in 1968, the responsibility for restoring the land and water resources lost by mining operations and providing compensation for environmental damage to the island was under the control of the governments of United Kingdom, New Zealand and Australia.

A truck used for carrying Phosphate to the processing centre.

A truck used for carrying Phosphate to the processing centre.

Since independence the Nauru Phosphate Corporation, renamed in 2005 to the Republic of Nauru Phosphate Corporation have held the mining rights.

In 1989, the government of Nauru filed a case against the Australian government at the International Court in The Hague, claiming compensation for the rehabilitation of land mined under Australian administration. Despite a settlement having been reached, the mined interior of the island is still to be rehabilitated.

Small-scale phosphate mining at Topside in 2020.

Small-scale phosphate mining at Topside in 2020.

In 2002, the mining industry collapsed, due to the virtual exhaustion of financially viable resources, although some small-scale mining can still be seen today and can easily be observed on a drive around Topside.

The gravel roads on Topside have been made by the Nauru Phosphate Corporation in order to access their mining grounds. These roads are open as public roads and provide access to both the mines sights and the Regional (Refugee) Processing Centres.

Now, almost all of the available phosphate has been mined for use in fertiliser. The residual pinnacles have left a jagged landscape that cannot be used for agriculture or forestry.

Scuba Diving

Ready to do some snorkelling among the limestone pinnacles at Anibare beach.

Ready to do some snorkelling among the limestone pinnacles at Anibare beach.

While on Nauru, I kept looking out at the warm, 29 degrees, turquoise water and wishing there was some way to go scuba diving on the reef which surrounds this remote island. How amazingly pristine it must be! I had failed to find any information online regarding scuba diving options on Nauru and no locals could provide information on scuba diving options.

Then, on my second last day on the island, I met with the very helpful and informative, Sean Oppenheimer, who is the owner of Capelle & Partners. Sean advised that there is a PADI-certified Dive Master resident on Nauru and that diving can be organised by first contacting Capelle & Partners.

For any Israelis who make it to Nauru, Sean also serves as the Honorary Consul for Israel. For any consular enquiries, he can be contacted at: israelnauruconsol@gmail.com.

A photo on the wall of the Capelle and Partners office shows Sean Oppenheimer with Jean-Michel Cousteau during his visit to Nauru.

A photo on the wall of the Capelle and Partners office shows Sean Oppenheimer with Jean-Michel Cousteau during his visit to Nauru.

Displayed on the wall of the Capelle and Partners office is a photo of Sean Oppenheimer with Jean-Michel Cousteau, the son of Jacques Cousteau, who visited Nauru in the early 1990’s to film a documentary “Nauru: The Island Planet” which focused attention on the environmental consequences of exploiting natural resources, i.e. Phosphate mining.

Fishing Charters

 Capelle and Partners showing off their new banner ads which feature their car rental, accommodation and fishing charter businesses.

The wonderful staff at Capelle and Partners showing off their new banner ads which feature their car rental, accommodation and fishing charter businesses.

The deep (up to 2,000 metres), pristine waters which surround Nauru, offer some of the best game fishing on the planet. Fishing trips can be organised through Equatorial Gamefishing Charters, who operate two boats on either full-day or half-day trips.

The charter business is another offering from Capelle & Partners, who can also arrange car rental, accommodation and much more.

If you need to purchase any fishing equipment, you can do so from their fully stocked fishing supplies shop, which is located next to the supermarket entrance.

Equatorial Gamefishing Charters Contact Details: 

Sightseeing

A wooden map of Nauru, showing the different districts, adorns the wall of the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel.

A wooden map of Nauru, showing the different districts, adorns the wall of the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel.

Island Tour

Visiting Buada Lagoon with my guide Ima.

Visiting Buada Lagoon with my guide Ima.

The sights of Nauru can be visited during the course of one day – at a leisurely pace! The best way to experience the island is to engage the services of a local guide, such as the wonderful Ima who is a staff member at the Menen Hotel.

A tour with Ima, which can be arranged through the reception desk at the hotel, costs A$40 and takes as long as it takes. Since I had a rental car, I did the driving while Ima did the navigating and talking!

Having a local guide is worthwhile, especially on Topside, where some interesting WWII sights (built during the Japanese occupation of the island), are hidden away and impossible to find.

Then there’s the surprising Moqua Caves, located right under your nose but completely hidden and impossible to find without a local guide.

Highly recommended!

Around the Island

Yaren District

Although Nauru has no official capital, the district of Yaren serves as the administrative centre for the island. It’s here, at the southern end of the island that you’ll find the airport, Parliament House, Ministerial Building, Court House, Nauru Museum, Police Station, Fire Station, Schools and more.

Ministerial Building

A view of the Ministerial Building with the Nauru War Memorial in the foreground.

A view of the Ministerial Building with the Nauru War Memorial in the foreground.

Located next to the Parliament House in Yaren, the Ministerial Building houses the offices of the members of the Nauru cabinet. The Cabinet is directly appointed by the President, and comprises the president, who presides over Cabinet meetings, and either four or five members of the parliament.

Located outside the Ministerial building in Yaren, the Nauru War Memorial is dedicated those who lost their lives in WWI and WWII.

Located outside the Ministerial building in Yaren, the Nauru War Memorial is dedicated those who lost their lives in WWI and WWII.

Clearly displayed on the Ministerial building is the Nauru Coat of Arms. Designed at the time of Independence, it features a shield split into three parts; with the top part containing the alchemy symbol for Phosphorous; the lower-left part containing a black frigate bird, while the third part contains a sprig of ‘Calophyllum‘, a flowering tropical plant.

The Nauru coat of arms is displayed above the entrance of the Ministerial Building in Yaren.

The Nauru coat of arms is displayed above the entrance of the Ministerial Building in Yaren.

Parliament House

A view of Parliament House, which is a unicameral parliament.

A view of Parliament House, which is a unicameral parliament.

Located next to the Ministerial building in Yaren, the Parliament of Nauru is a unicameral parliament, i.e. it consists of a single chamber. The parliament has 19 members who are elected for a three-year term in multi-seat constituencies. The President of Nauru, currently Lionel Rouwen Aingimea, is elected by the members of the Parliament.

A portrait of the first President of Nauru, Hammer DeRoburt, is displayed inside Parliament House.

A portrait of the first President of Nauru, Hammer DeRoburt, is displayed inside Parliament House.

While you are free to visit and photograph Parliament house, photography is forbidden inside the chamber.

Naoero Museum

A view of the Naoero Museum with one of the locomotives from the old phosphate railway on the right. The railway was built by the Pacific Phosphate Company in 1907.

A view of the Naoero Museum with one of the locomotives from the old phosphate railway on the right. The railway was built by the Pacific Phosphate Company in 1907.

The Naoero Museum, which was opened on the 30th of January 2019, should be the first place you visit on Nauru. It is here that you’ll gain an understanding of the history of the island and be made aware of the various sights, which you can then visit as you tour the island.

Displays inside the Nauru museum tell the story of Nauru while a model map provides a useful overview of the island.

Displays inside the Nauru museum tell the story of Nauru while a model map provides a useful overview of the island.

A model of the island provides a good overview of the different sites which can be visited. The friendly docent, who has a wealth of knowledge relating to Nauru, will ensure you receive the full story of the island before he lets you depart.

 

A close-up view of a traditional 'Tribal Mat'. About the size of a place-mat, these were worn around the waist by woman with the distinct pattern indicating their tribe.

A close-up view of a traditional ‘Tribal Mat’. About the size of a place-mat, these were worn around the waist by woman with the distinct pattern indicating their tribe.

The story of the Tribal Mats, which are uniquely Nauruan, is especially interesting. If you wish to contact the museum via email, you can do so at: naurugovinfo@gmail.com

Moqua Caves

A surprising find on Nauru, the completely hidden Moqua Caves in Yaren.

A surprising find on Nauru, the completely hidden Moqua Caves in Yaren.

Hidden away, off the main road, near the airport, the Moqua Caves are a series of underground caves which are filled with water from the underground lake known as Moqua Well.

This is a favourite place for locals looking to cool off on a hot day. The water, which is slightly salty, is refreshingly cool. Bring your swimmers!

Meneng District

A view of the southern end of Anibare Bay from the Menen Hotel.

A view of the southern end of Anibare Bay from the Menen Hotel.

Located on the southeast coast of Nauru, the Meneng district is home to the Menen Hotel (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more details), the largest hotel on the island and the place where most visitors stay. The hotel is located at the southern end of Anibare Bay.

Anibare District

A view worthy to be the cover photo for this guide. Limestone pinnacles, rising from the reef at the northern end of Anibare Bay.

A view worthy to be the cover photo for this guide. Limestone pinnacles, rising from the reef at the northern end of Anibare Bay.

Located on the east coast, the 2-km long Anibare Bay is the longest beach on Nauru. Considered the best beach on the island, the bay was formed by the underwater collapse of the east side of the volcano that underlies Nauru.

The bay is the most photogenic on the island (especially at sunrise) with a cluster of towering, limestone pinnacles rising from the reef at the northern end of the bay.

A WWII Japanese "pillbox" overlooks Anibare Bay.

A WWII Japanese “pillbox” overlooks Anibare Bay.

Located midway along the beach is an abandoned Japanese, WWII-era ‘pillbox’ (a concrete dug-in guard post). The Japanese occupation of Nauru lasted for a period of three years, from the 26th of August 1942 until the 13th of September 1945.

The only harbour on the east coast, Anibare Harbour was created in 2000 as a commercial fishing port.

The only harbour on the east coast, Anibare Harbour was created in 2000 as a commercial fishing port.

I did attempt to paddle and snorkel in Anibare bay during high tide but the presence of coral and sharp limestone rocks makes any swimming dangerous.

Although quite deep, the enclosed Anibare harbour provides the only safe swimming place on the east coast and is very popular with local kids.

Although quite deep, the enclosed Anibare harbour provides the only safe swimming place on the east coast and is very popular with local kids.

The best place to swim on the east coast is inside the protected walls of Anibare Harbour where the water is deep and protected from currents. The harbour was built as a safe harbour for the small fleet of fishing boats with a fish market located at the harbour.

Always best to follow the locals, who swim within the protected walls of Anibare Harbour.

Ewa District

Located opposite the Capelle & Partner complex, Ewa beach is an ideal place to enjoy your takeaway meal or coffee from the Tropicana cafe.

Located opposite the Capelle & Partner complex, Ewa beach is an ideal place to enjoy your takeaway meal or coffee from the Tropicana cafe.

On tiny Nauru, all roads lead to Ewa, and specifically, the Capelle & Partners complex which includes the largest supermarket on the island, a bottle shop, the Buns in the Sun bakery, the Tropicana café, the Ewa Lodge and the fishing gear shop. This is a busy corner of the island, with the facilities attracting a constant stream of locals.

A view of Ewa beach.

A view of Ewa beach.

Aiwo District

The ruins of Cantilever #1, which was bombed by the Germans during WWII.

The ruins of Cantilever #1, which was bombed by the Germans during WWII.

If you enjoy photographing rusty, industrial relics, you’ll love Aiwo. Sitting on the reef are the ruins of Phosphate Cantilever #1 which was bombed by the Germans during WWII. North of this is Phosphate Cantilever #2, which was built after the war and is still operational.

Covid-19 panic shopping even hit remote Nauru with locals buying up supplies of rice at the Civic Centre.

Covid-19 panic shopping even hit remote Nauru with locals buying up supplies of rice at the Civic Centre.

If Nauru has anywhere which could be considered ‘downtown’ then its Aiwo district. Located a short drive from the airport and Yaren, Aiwo is home to the Civic Centre, where you’ll find the one post office and bank on Nauru.

Friendly Nauru youth, on a shopping trip to Civic Centre.

Friendly Nauru youth, on a shopping trip to Civic Centre.

During my visit, the government announced that it would suspend shipping services to the island as part of its Covid-19 lock-down. This resulted in panic buying of rice, with locals purchasing huge supplies of rice from the Civic Centre supermarket.

Topside

The interior, high plateau area of Nauru is known as Topside. It is here that the island has generated its past wealth through phosphate mining, which has seen 80% of the island strip-mined

While the landscape has mostly been destroyed, there are a few interesting sights worth exploring, including reminders of the Japanese occupation and the very attractive oasis which is Buada lagoon.

In addition to the sights listed below, its worth driving to the mine sites to see how phosphate is extracted and processed (refer to the ‘Phosphate Mining‘ section for more on this).

Buada Lagoon

Tiny Buada lagoon has an average depth of 24 metres, with a maximum depth of 78 metres.

Tiny Buada lagoon has an average depth of 24 metres, with a maximum depth of 78 metres.

Located on Topside is the charming, green oasis of Buada Lagoon, which is surrounded by lush, tropical trees. If I lived on Nauru, I would live on the shores of Buada lagoon.

At just 0.13 km2, this tiny, landlocked, body of water (a large pond really!) is an endorheic lake, i.e. there is no outflow from the lake.

For centuries, prior to the arrival of Europeans, the tribes of Nauru used the lagoon for breeding milk-fish. Young milk-fish were caught in the surf and transferred to the lagoon. While many died, large numbers survived and were harvested once they reached a certain weight. An ancient version of a fish farm!

Command Ridge

One of the Japanese WWII-era, double-barrelled anti-aircraft guns on Command Ridge.

One of the Japanese WWII-era, double-barrelled anti-aircraft guns on Command Ridge.

At 65 metres, Command Ridge is the highest point of Nauru. During the Japanese occupation, this was used as a lookout post. It’s possible to climb the overgrown ridge to reach a large double-barrelled anti-aircraft gun which is still on its original mount.

A view of the hiking trail on Command Ridge.

A view of the hiking trail on Command Ridge.

The guns are very well concealed on the ridge. There are no signs pointing the way and I would never have found them without having a local guide.

A tunnel, which was originally used to provide access to the interior of the gun.

A tunnel, which was originally used to provide access to the interior of the gun.

If you have an interest in WWII history and relics, Nauru offers plenty of sights of interest. For more detailed reading, a detailed description of the various WWII sites has been published by Stan Gajda, who spent time working on the island back in the 1980’s and used his spare time to explore the WWII history of Nauru.

Japanese Prison 

Abandoned prison cells of the Japanese WWII prison.

Abandoned prison cells of the Japanese WWII prison.

Hidden away, just off the road which leads to Buada Lagoon, is an abandoned Japanese WWII-era prison. With a complete lack of signage and a concealed entrance, which is through a gap in the trees, I would never have found the prison without my trusted guide, Ima, leading the way.

Nature is slowly reclaiming the abandoned prison cells of the Japanese WWII prison.

Nature is slowly reclaiming the abandoned prison cells of the Japanese WWII prison.

The various prison cells were used to incarcerate enemies of the Japanese in World War II and was no doubt the scene of war time atrocities against the Nauruans, which would explain why my guide, Ima, was not comfortable spending time here.

Accommodation

While on Nauru, I stayed in one of the seaside rooms at the Menen hotel.

While on Nauru, I stayed in one of the seaside rooms at the Menen hotel.

There are precious few rooms available on Nauru and of those available, currently (2020) many are rented out on a long-term basis to the Australian government and private companies for the purpose of housing expatriate support staff who work at the Refugee Processing Centres or elsewhere.

The Australian pilots, who fly for Nauru Airlines, are housed at the excellent Ewa Lodge. A part of the Capelle & Partners enterprise, the Ewa Lodge offers the best accommodation on the island, if you can secure one of their few rooms. It’s worth contacting the company directly as they allocate five rooms for short term visitors.

Menen Hotel

The entrance to the Menen hotel, with a wing of 'Shipping container' rooms visible on the right.

The entrance to the Menen hotel, with a wing of ‘Shipping container’ rooms visible on the right.

The one sure bet on Nauru is the government owned, 119-room, Menen Hotel, which has been serving the people of Nauru since 1969. A hotel, whose star has faded, the Menen is the largest property on Nauru and one of the only properties where a room can be secured at short notice.

Built during the heyday of the Phosphate boom, the hotel today is old and tired and in need of a complete renovation, and in some cases a complete rebuild.

The Government-owned Menen Hotel celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2019.

The Government-owned Menen Hotel celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2019.

Anywhere else, the Menen Hotel would be avoided, but on tiny and remote Nauru, where options are very limited, visitors have little choice but to stay here and management (or the Government) are under no pressure to improve the offering.

My old and tired, but spacious and comfortable, room at the Menen hotel, which cost A$185 per night.

My old and tired, but spacious and comfortable, room at the Menen hotel, which cost A$185 per night.

Overlooking the beach in Meneng district, the 119 rooms are basic but comfortable, but at A$185 per night – not cheap. The hotel restaurant is one of the best on the island while the hotel bar, the Reef Bar, is the only bar on the island, although you can also enjoy a drink in the beer garden at the excellent The Bay restaurant.

The view from my balcony at the Menen hotel.

The view from my balcony at the Menen hotel.

I enjoyed my stay at the Menen, and would recommend the hotel, purely because it’s the only real option for a short-term visitor. Through the hotel reception, I was able to organise a rental car (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below) and an island tour with the wonderful Ima (see the ‘Sightseeing‘ section for details). The hotel also has one of the few ATM’s on the island which is convenient.

Payment for the rooms needs to be made in cash or by bank transfer to their Bendigo Bank account – no credit cards are accepted. 

While visitors are (normally) accommodated in the two seaside wings of the hotel, much of the sprawling property has been developed into a small village of ‘shipping container rooms’ which are used to house support staff for the Refugee Processing centres. The containers, which are stacked two-high, in long rows, are also used to accommodate regular visitors, should the seaside rooms be unavailable.

'Shipping container' accommodation at the Menen hotel is used to house Australian staff working at the Refugee Processing Centre.

‘Shipping container’ accommodation at the Menen hotel is used to house Australian staff working at the Refugee Processing Centre.

Menen Hotel Contact Details:

  • Reservations Manager: Mr Hansolo Boutu
  • Website: No website.
  • Address: 
    Menen Hotel
    Republic of Nauru
    PO Box 298
  • Telephone Numbers: +674 5578020 / +674 5578021 /+674 5578022
  • Email: menhotreservation@yahoo.com

Note: Response to emails can take time and can require following up.

Ewa Lodge

The rooms at the Ewa Lodge are located on the 1st floor of the Capelle & Partners building.

The rooms at the Ewa Lodge are located on the 1st floor of the Capelle & Partners building.

It seems that everything that is done by the team at Capelle & Partners is done to perfection and their accommodation option, the Ewa Lodge, is no exception. Their modern, contemporary and stylish rooms (of which there are about 20) are the best on the island.

Unfortunately, the secret is out and many companies rent their rooms on a long-term basis to house their employees. When the Australian pilots of Nauru Airlines stay overnight on the island, they stay at Ewa Lodge.

A room at the Ewa Lodge.

A room at the Ewa Lodge.
Source: Capelle and Partners

The good news is that five rooms are reserved for short-term guests, so it’s worth contacting the Accommodations Manager, Ms. Janelle Duburiya, to enquire about availability.

The lodge is located on the 1st floor of the Capelle & Partners building, above their supermarket, the largest on Nauru. Also conveniently located downstairs is their bakery, ‘Buns in the Sun‘, and their café, ‘Tropicana café‘ (both of which are covered in the ‘Eating Out‘ section below). Across the road is Ewa beach, which offers a sandy stretch of white-sand.

The different businesses of Capelle and Partners. Source: Capelle and Partners.

The different businesses of Capelle and Partners.
Source: Capelle and Partners

Having spent time with the team at Capelle & Partners, it is clear that they see the tourism potential of Nauru, and are busy developing that potential. Just as importantly, this small, local, family-run conglomerate has the resources to be able to develop and offer services which will allow visitors to maximise their travel experience while on Pleasant Island.

Ewa Lodge Contact Details: 

  • Accommodations Manager: Ms. Janelle Duburiya
  • Website: http://capelleandpartner.com/ewa-lodge-accommodation/
  • Address:
    Capelle & Partners
    Occidental Building
    Ewa Beach
    PO Box 5
    Republic of Nauru
  • Telephone Numbers: +674 5571055 / +674 5571000 / +674 5571001
  • Email: cpreservations@capelle.com.nr

Budapest Hotel

Located on beautiful Anibare beach, the rooms at the Budapest Hotel are currently fully occupied, providing accommodation to Refugees.

Located on beautiful Anibare beach, the rooms at the Budapest Hotel are currently fully occupied, providing accommodation to Refugees.

Located on Anibare beach, a short drive south of Ewa Lodge, the rooms at the very utilitarian Budapest Hotel are currently booked out on a long term basis, housing refugees who are awaiting processing.

One of the very basic, but functional, rooms at the Budapest Hotel.

One of the very basic, but functional, rooms at the Budapest Hotel.
Source: http://budapesthotelnauru.com/

At the time of my visit, the Indian management were busy renovating the property and advised that the hotel will not be open to short-term visitors anytime soon. When it does re-open, this 2-story hotel, which was inaugurated in 2017, offers 30, relatively basic rooms in two buildings which have been built with a focus on functionality rather than aesthetics.

Budapest Hotel Contact Details: 

  • Managers Name: Tariq
  • Website: http://budapesthotelnauru.com/
  • Address:
    Island Ring Road
    Anabar
    Nauru
  • Telephone Number: +674 5583697
  • Email: tariq@radianceintl.com.au

OD-N-Aiwo Hotel

The 3-storey OD-N-Aiwo Hotel is the tallest building on Nauru.

The 3-storey OD-N-Aiwo Hotel is the tallest building on Nauru.

As with the Budapest Hotel, the old and tired rooms at the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel are fully booked on a long term basis, housing support staff from the Refugee Processing Centre.

At the time of my visit, the completely disinterested receptionist advised the hotel was currently closed to short-term visitors. This three-storey complex, which is located in the heart of the downtown area in Aiwo district, has the distinction of being the tallest building on Nauru. The lobby also features some funky displays which are worth a peek.

A model of an old Air Nauru plane hangs from the ceiling of the reception at the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel.

A model of an old Air Nauru plane hangs from the ceiling of the reception at the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel.

Located 2 minutes from the airport, the hotel is a short walk from the Civic Centre which is the main commercial centre on Nauru, offering a supermarket, post office, bank, the main Digicel store.

OD-N-Aiwo Hotel Contact Details: 

  • Website: No Website
  • Address:
    PO Box 299
    Aiwo District
    Republic of Nauru
  • Telephone Numbers: +674 444 3591 / +674 444 3720
  • Email: odnaiwo@yahoo.com

Airport Homestay

There is one Airbnb property on Nauru. Nauru Airport Homestay Poe offers private rooms in Yaren, next to the airport, for around A$115 per night. An ideal option for those in transit.

Eating Out

Fish 'n' Chips at the Anibare Restaurant at the Menen hotel, where the local fish was always excellent.

Fish ‘n’ Chips at the Anibare Restaurant at the Menen hotel, where the local fish was always excellent.

As with accommodation options, dining options on Nauru are limited. This is an island of 10,670 souls, most of whom eat at home. Due to the poor soil, almost all produce is imported, with Nauru Airlines operating a weekly cargo flight, every Friday, from Brisbane.

The Nauru Airlines cargo plane, a converted Boeing 737, arriving at Nauru airport.

The Nauru Airlines cargo plane, a converted Boeing 737, arriving at Nauru airport.

There are just two decent dining options on Nauru. In order of preference, they are:

  1. The Bay Restaurant
  2. Anibare Restaurant

Apart from these two options, there are a string of cheap and cheery Chinese restaurants, with the best of them being the Oriental Restaurant, which is located on the ground floor of the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel.

While on the island, I ate local reef fish most evenings, which was always fresh and tasty.

Restaurants

The Bay Restaurant

Owned by Capelle & Partners, The Bay Restaurant (Tel:+674 557 1111) is the best restaurant on the island. Located on the Island Ring road in Anibare bay, this popular restaurant is the ‘go-to’ place for expats looking for a night out. With a spacious, leafy beer garden out the back, the restaurant is especially popular during happy hour when bottles of Australian beer can be purchased for $4.50 each.

The menu includes lots of international favourites including pizza, hamburgers and chips (A$10), Curries, fresh Fish and Chips, Club sandwiches and much more. The friendly, enthusiastic staff provide a very good level of service, which isn’t always assured on Nauru.

Anibare Restaurant

The dining room at the Anibare Restaurant, where the chairs are covered in the national colours.

The dining room at the Anibare Restaurant, where the chairs are covered in the national colours.

Named after the long bay on which the Menen Hotel is located, The Anibare Restaurant offers surprisingly good meals. I always ordered the fresh fish of the day and was never disappointed.

Oriental Restaurant

A not-so-busy Oriental Restaurant at lunchtime.

A not-so-busy Oriental Restaurant at lunchtime.

Of the many cheap eats on Nauru, almost all of which are Chinese, the Oriental Restaurant at the OD-N-Aiwo Hotel is worth a mention. Offering a menu of predictable favourites, this is the place to come when you have a craving for Sweet and Sour Pork or Special Fried Rice.

Cafés

A Flat white coffee and a freshly made cupcake at the Tropicana café.

A Flat white coffee and a freshly made cupcake at the Tropicana café.

The best coffee on Nauru is served at the Tropicana café, which is part of the Capelle & Partners conglomerate.

Tropicana Café

The Tropicana café claims to offer the best coffee on Nauru.

The Tropicana café claims to offer the best coffee on Nauru.

Another offering from the busy folks at Capelle & Partners, the Tropicana café is located in their supermarket complex in Ewa. Apart from very good coffee, the café offers a menu of favourite takeaway food and drinks, which makes this a popular stop for locals at lunchtime.

Always armed with an amazing smile, Doris is one of the friendly staff members at the Tropicana café.

Always armed with an amazing smile, Doris is one of the friendly staff members at the Tropicana café.

The café offers fast foods, wraps, sandwiches, burgers, sushi, hot meals and freshly baked cakes which are prepared next door by the team at the ‘Buns in the Sun’ bakery.

The lunchtime crowd at the Tropicana café.

The lunchtime crowd at the Tropicana café.

Bakeries

Staff at 'Buns in the Sun' preparing fresh bread rolls.

Staff at ‘Buns in the Sun’ preparing fresh bread rolls.

The award for ‘Best Bakery on Nauru‘ goes to… ‘Buns in the Sun‘.

Part of the Capelle & Partners conglomerate, this excellent bakery, which is located at their supermarket complex in Ewa, was established using equipment supplied by Bakers Delight, the large Australian-owned bakery franchise chain which has outlets throughout Australia, New Zealand and Canada.

The friendly, well-trained, young, international team of bakers produce the best bread on the island. They also bake the best meat pies and sausage rolls on Nauru, which make for a great lunch which can be enjoyed across the road from the bakery, on the wonderful white sands of Ewa beach.

Bars

The outdoor area at the Menen Hotels' Reef Bar.

The outdoor area at the Menen Hotels’ Reef Bar.

There is just one bar/club on Nauru, the Reef bar at the Menen Hotel. It was very quiet every night I stayed at the hotel, with just a few patrons sitting outside on the garden furniture drinking beers. The bar opens each evening around 6:30 pm, or whenever the staff show up for work.

Visa Requirements

My Nauru tourist visa.

My Nauru tourist visa.

All visitors to Nauru must obtain a visa in advance, unless they hold a passport from one of 15 countries. To check the current requirements, please refer to the Visa Policy of Nauru.

The A4-size Nauru arrival form, which is comprised of three separate declarations for three different departments.

The A4-size Nauru arrival form, which is comprised of three separate declarations for three different departments.

Online Visa Application Process


My 'Visa Grant Notice' letter, which took Nauru immigration one month to issue.

My ‘Visa Grant Notice’ letter, which took Nauru immigration one month to issue.


Visas can be obtained online, which is very convenient since there are just four diplomatic missions around the world. A description of the online visa process is included here.

For a country which was once named Pleasant Island, times have changed with the ‘welcome mat’ having been removed. The only unfortunate aspect of planning a visit to Nauru is completing the Visa Application process, with seems to be unnecessarily long.


Application Form

Click here to download the Nauru Visitor Visa Application Form


Due to a number of global media reports, which have focused on the Refugee Processing Centres, and created a negative image for the country, Nauru Immigration screen all visitors to ensure they are not journalists.

The current visa fee for a journalist is A$8,000, which is non-refundable. Apparently, it only took a few refusals to stop media organisations from applying for them. If you are applying for a visa, you will be required to show proof of your occupation – which shouldn’t be ‘Journalist’.

Nauru Immigration Contact Details

The following email addresses should be used for contacting Nauru Immigration:

General email address: visa@naurugov.nr
Senior Immigration Officer (Rajeev): rajeevnauruimmigration@gmail.com or rajeev.keerthiyil@naurugov.nr
Senior Immigration Officer (Darlene): darlenenauruimmi@gmail.com

Visa Application Requirements

In order to apply for an Online Visa, you should first email Nauru Immigration and ask them to confirm the current requirements. When I contacted them (January 2020), I received the following reply:


Nauru Visa Application Requirements.

Nauru Visa Application Requirements.


Visa Processing Timeline

Following is a timeline of my Visa application. From the time I submitted all my documents, it took Nauru Immigration one month to process my application and issue my ‘Visa Grant Notice‘ letter (pictured above).

  • 21st of January: I submitted all required documents to Nauru Immigration via email.
  • 4th of February: After receiving no response to my submission email, I emailed Nauru Immigration, asking them to confirm that they had received my application. I received no response to this email.
  • 10th of February: I emailed Nauru Immigration again, asking them to confirm that they had received my application. Rajeev responded asking me to re-confirm my itinerary and to provide proof of my occupation, which had to be stated on an official document. I reconfirmed my itinerary and provided an official document which stated my occupation.
  • 14th of February: I emailed Rajeev to enquire as to when my visa would be issued.
  • 17th of February: I received an invoice from Nauru Immigration for A$50 which was the Visa application fee. This was paid via bank transfer to an account at Bendigo Bank using instructions provided by Nauru Immigration. Credit cards cannot be used to pay the visa application fee.  
  • 18th of February: I finally received my Visa Grant Notice, which I then presented at the airport upon arrival on Nauru in exchange for my Visitor Visa, which was stamped into my passport.

Following is a copy of the Visa fee payment invoice with the bank accounts details for Nauru Immigration.

Nauru Visa Fee Payment Invoice.

Nauru Visa Fee Payment Invoice.

Getting There

Nauru International Airport Terminal.

Nauru International Airport Terminal.

Air

The Nauru International airport terminal building.

The Nauru International airport terminal building.

The only way to arrive on Nauru is by air, with all flights arriving at Nauru International Airport (IATA: INU) which is the only airport on the island.

Early morning departure from Nauru back to Brisbane.

Early morning departure from Nauru back to Brisbane.

The only airline operating flights to Nauru is the national carrier, Nauru Airlines. The airline’s fleet consists of four Boeing 737-300 passenger aircraft plus one dedicated Boeing 737-300 cargo aircraft.

The Nauru Airlines check-in desks at Brisbane airport.

The Nauru Airlines check-in desks at Brisbane airport.

I flew on a return ticket from Brisbane to Nauru. If you book a flight with the airline which involves a transit stop (e.g. Brisbane to Marshall Islands via Nauru), you will be admitted into Nauru without having to go through the tedious Visa process.


 

Brisbane Airport Accommodation

If staying in Brisbane before your flight to Nauru, I recommend staying across the road from the International terminal at the Brisbane Airport Ibis hotel.

The hotel offers comfortable rooms at reasonable rates with a wonderful breakfast served in the morning. The terminal is across the road from the hotel, making the Ibis a very convenient option for those travelling on the early morning flight to Nauru.

The Brisbane Airport Ibis hotel offers great rates and an unbeatable location directly opposite the international terminal, a short walk from your Nauru Airlines flight.

The Brisbane Airport Ibis hotel offers great rates and an unbeatable location directly opposite the international terminal, a short walk from your Nauru Airlines flight.

 


Depending on your flight connection, you could have an overnight stay on Nauru which would count as a visit for those country-counters who simply wish to tick Nauru off of their ‘Countries Visited’ list without going through the visa process.

My boarding pass for my flight from Brisbane to Nauru.

My boarding pass for my flight from Brisbane to Nauru.

My flight experience with Nauru Airlines was very pleasant. The crew were friendly and professional, with the Cabin crew being comprised of Nauruans and the pilots being Australian.

The airline uses Brisbane Airport as its maintenance and administration base which makes a whole lot of sense as all services are readily available there.

The only view on the 4.5-hour journey from Brisbane to Nauru is of the vast Pacific Ocean, with the occasional, remote atoll appearing below.

The only view on the 4.5-hour journey from Brisbane to Nauru is of the vast Pacific Ocean, with the occasional, remote atoll appearing below.

The flight time on the 3,341 km (2076 mi) trip from Brisbane to Nauru is 4 hours, 39 minutes. The entire flight is spent over the Pacific Ocean, with the occasional remote atoll punctuating the vast, monotonous expanse of blue.

These atolls are the dream destinations for the competitive travellers on websites such as Most Traveled People – adventurers who spend their time travelling around the globe, aiming to set foot in every country, and on every speck of land in the ocean.

Flight Costs

The booking screen from the Nauru Airlines website shows typical tickets costs.

The booking screen from the Nauru Airlines website shows typical tickets costs.

As a monopoly operator, Nauru Airlines is able to charge what they like, and since most passengers are travelling to the island on business, or government, expense accounts, airfares are not cheap.

Flights are sold in one-way segments and in different price categories. The cheapest category is Pacific Super Saver, with a one-way ticket from Brisbane to Nauru typically costing A$679. On certain days, this airfare might not be available with the next category of ticket, Pacific Saver, costing around A$950 one way. It’s always best to book as far in advance as possible.

Destinations

Nauru Airlines route map,

Nauru Airlines route map.
Source: Nauru Airlines

Nauru Airlines currently connects Nauru to:

  • Brisbane (Australia)
  • Nadi (Fiji)
  • Tarawa (Republic of Kiribati)
  • Majuro (Republic of the Marshall Islands)

Nauru Airlines Flight Schedule

The flight schedule is issued on a monthly basis. You can check the current schedule here.

An aerial photo at the Nauru Museum, clearly shows the runway extension which protrudes out over the coral reef.

An aerial photo at the Nauru Museum, clearly shows the runway extension which protrudes out over the coral reef.

Airport Transport

You can either walk or call ahead to your hotel to organise a transfer.

Sea

Forget it!

There is no way to reach Nauru by sea, unless you organise a berth on a container ship with a company such as Pacific International Lines (PIL).

Getting Around

There's never any rush hour on the Island Ring road, the islands' one long main road.

There’s never any rush hour on the Island Ring road, the islands’ one long main road.

Public Transport

A private bus on Nauru.

A private bus on Nauru.

There is no public transport on Nauru.

There are a few school buses and a few private mini-buses which transport refugees from their accommodation to the processing centres.

Walking/ Cycling

The distance from the most southern point of Nauru to the most northern point is just 9 km via the Island Ring road. The distance around the entire Ring road is 19 km (12 mi), making Nauru one country you could easily cover on foot in less than a day.

Rental Car

My rental car at Anibare Bay with the blue and white colours painted on the palm trees representing the colours of the AFL (Australian Rules football) team which the district supports.

My rental car at Anibare Bay with the blue and white colours painted on the palm trees representing the colours of the AFL (Australian Rules football) team which the district supports.

The best way to maximise your time on Nauru is to rent a car. Nauru is so small that it takes less than one hour to drive around it. The 19-km Island Ring Road circles the island and is paved, however this is not the case for most of the interior roads on Topside, which are gravel.


Trivia: An interesting piece of trivia is that the national sport of Nauru is AFL (Australian Rules Football). The sport was played by Nauruan school children in the 1930’s in schools in Victoria, Australia – the home of AFL. One of these school children was Hammer DeRoburt, the first president of Nauru who was a keen promoter of AFL in Nauru.

The sport today enjoys a high participation rate among Nauruans, and each district on the island follows one particular team in the Australian national league. They show their loyalty by painting the trunks of the palm trees, which line the Island Ring road in their district, with their team colours.


The good news is that you will not require a navigation device on Nauru. With one circular ring road following the coast, you simply keep driving until you return to your starting point. While distances are small and fuel consumption is minimal, unleaded fuel costs a whopping A$2 per litre!

The interior roads on Topside are gravel surfaced, having been built by the Phosphate mining company to provide access to mine sights.

The interior roads on Topside are gravel surfaced, having been built by the Phosphate mining company to provide access to mine sights.

The speed limit on the island is 50km/h but many locals would never dream of driving at such a speed. The pace of life on the island is slow and relaxed – no one is rushing anywhere!

Seat belts are optional, hand brakes are never needed on the flat coastal terrain and as for locking your car – where would any would-be car thief disappear to? It’s all very leisurely and relaxed.

When planes are present at Nauru airport, this portion of the Island Ring road, which doubles as the taxiway and apron at the airport, is closed to traffic.

When planes are present at Nauru airport, this portion of the Island Ring road, which doubles as the taxiway and apron at the airport, is closed to traffic.

One strange quirk on the island is that a small section of the Island Ring road forms part of the taxiway and apron area at the airport. Whenever a plane is present, the road is barricaded closed.  A second, newer road provides an alternative route around the perimeter of the airport, along the coast.

There are two contacts for rental cars on Nauru, Capelle & Partners and Ms Bena Fritz:

Capelle & Partners

This is one company which has all bases covered. C&P have a fleet of 8 Toyota Hilux vehicles which cost A$100 per day or 2 Toyota RAV4 vehicles for A$90 per day.

Contact Details for Capelle & Partners

My rental car alongside one of the Japanese WWII pillboxes (concrete dug-in guard post), which can be seen along the coast of Nauru.

My rental car alongside one of the Japanese WWII pillboxes (concrete dug-in guard post), which can be seen along the coast of Nauru.

Bena Fritz

I rented a car for A$80 per day through Ms Bena Fritz, who maintains a small fleet of 4WD vehicles. Bena, who was recommended by the Menen Hotel, dropped the car to me at the hotel and allowed me to leave the car at the airport when I departed.

Contact Details for Bena Fritz

  • Telephone: +674 54567187

 


That’s the end of my travel guide for Nauru. I look forward to hearing from anyone who uses this guide in planning a trip to Pleasant Island.  

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

 

Nuru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide 

Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide 

Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide 

Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide 

Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide Nauru Travel Guide 

Palau Travel Guide

Bai at Aimeliik.

Palau Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Palau Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017 – March 2017

Introduction

There I was – on a dive, 20 metres below the surface of the Pacific Ocean, clinging to a large boulder that was firmly embedded in the seabed of the German channel. The current washing through the channel from the outgoing tide was strong but I was determined to keep my grip and await the arrival of a creature I had always dreamed of seeing up close. I would not be disappointed!

After some time a large shadow slowly loomed over me, blocking out the rays of the sun above, it was a large adult Manta Ray, a species which can grow to seven metres in width. It was soon joined by another – equally large – Manta Ray.

I was positioned at a cleaning station in the channel – the two giants floated two metres above me, being cleaned by an army of cleaner fish. To be so close to such magnificent creatures is an unforgettable experience – a highlight for any diver.

The Palau Ground Frog is endemic to Palau.

The Palau Ground Frog is endemic to Palau.

Diving is Palau’s main draw-card. The island nation is well known for its abundant marine life, anti-shark fishing policy and strict environmental regulations which apply inside the Palau National Marine Sanctuary – the world’s sixth largest sanctuary, covering an area twice the size of Mexico. At the centre of the sanctuary are the Rock Islands – 300 uninhabited limestone bumps surrounded by the most amazing turquoise water teeming with marine life.

The spectacular Rock Islands.

The spectacular Rock Islands.
Source: http://www.allamazingplaces.com/rock-islands-palau/rock-islands-southern-lagoon-chelbacheb-palau-pacific/

Palau also has a fabulously rich, complex and unique culture – one which is still actively practiced. Colourful, traditional meeting houses, known as Bai’s, dot the landscape. Wooden carvings, known as ‘storyboards’, tell traditional folk stories.

All of this makes Palau an interesting and engaging destination for those willing to get off the beaten track. This remote, pristine Pacific island nation is not easy to reach – and – once there, is very expensive – but – it’s definitely worth the effort and cost.

Detail of a traditional Bai at the Belau National museum.

Detail of a traditional Bai at the Belau National museum.

Location

Palau is located in the middle of the Western Pacific, about 1,600 km (1,000 miles) southwest of Guam and 1,000 km (600 miles) east of the Philippines.

History

Palau's Capitol Building.

Palau’s Capitol Building.

The first inhabitants of Palau arrived 3,000 years ago from the Philippines. The first Europeans to make contact with the islands were the Spanish in the 16th century – they made Palau a part of the Spanish East Indies in 1574. Following Spain’s defeat in the Spanish-American war in 1898, the islands were sold to German who administered them as part of German New Guinea. The Japanese captured Palau during WWI and occupied them until their defeat in WWII by the United States.

Traditional Palau 'storyboard' wood carving.

Traditional Palau ‘storyboard’ wood carving.

In 1947, Palau (along with the Northern Mariana Islands, Federated States of Micronesia and the Marshall Islands) was made part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, which was administered by the United States. In 1979 Palau voted against joining the newly independent Federated States of Micronesia, gaining full sovereignty in 1994 under a Compact of Free Association with the United States. The official currency of Palau is the US dollar.

Flag

The flag of Palau.

The flag of Palau.

Introduced in 1981, the flag of Palau is wonderfully minimal but also strikingly beautiful. As with other Pacific island nations, the blue field represents the blue of the Pacific ocean while the yellow disk, which is slightly off-centre, represents the moon.

The Palauan’s consider the full moon to be the optimum time for human activity. At this time of the month, celebrations, fishing, sowing, harvesting, tree-felling, and the carving of traditional canoes are carried out. The moon is a symbol of peace, love, and tranquility.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

Being a former member of the US-administered Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of Palau is the US dollar.

Sights

Traditional Bai (meeting house) at Aimeliik.

Traditional Bai (meeting house) at Aimeliik.

Palau National Marine Sanctuary

The star attraction of Palau are the incredibly beautiful (World Heritage listed) Rock Islands – 300 (uninhabited) emerald-coloured, limestone/ coral mounds sprinkled throughout the stunningly picturesque turquoise-coloured southern lagoon between the islands of Koror and Peleliu.

As part of the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, this pristine, virgin environment is protected by a host of regulations. It’s here that you’ll find Palau’s most popular dive sites such as Blue Corner, Blue hole, German Channel and the famous Jellyfish lake – a lake that was home to thousands of sting-less jellyfish. At the time of my visit (March 2017), there were no jellyfish present in the lake so snorkeling trips were not being offered. Scientists believe droughts caused by El Niño may be to blame – you can read more about this in this National Geographic article.

I did two dives – one at German Channel and one at Blue Corner – with local dive operator Fish ‘n Fins. Like everything else on Palau, diving does not come cheap, with a two tank dive (including full equipment rental and a permit to the Marine Sanctuary) costing me almost $300. Prices do become more reasonable if you book multiple days of diving.

German Channel – named after the Germans who blasted a channel through the reef to facilitate transportation of phosphate into Koror – is famous for it’s Manta Ray cleaning stations. The stations are located at a depth of 20 m and on my dive we saw several of these huge, majestic creatures receiving a clean. The current can be quite strong during tidal movements but there are plenty of rocky outcrops to hold onto. The rock I used as my anchor was home to a beautiful octopus who kept sticking his head out of his hiding hole to see if I was still there. Between him and the Manta Rays it was a wonderful hour-long interaction.

 

Blue Corner - one of my dive sights on Palau.

Blue Corner – one of my dive sights on Palau.
Source: Kristine Barsky

Blue Corner is an underwater promontory sticking out of the reef like a triangular terrace twenty meters deep. Precipitous walls surround the terrace and are the favoured congregating ground for large schools of fish, including barracuda, jacks and lots of reef sharks. All of these schools attract plenty of predators and during our one hour dive I lost count of the number of sharks we saw. The abundance of marine life in this little corner of the Pacific is truly amazing.

Babeldaob

The Capitol Building at Ngerulmud, the tiny capital of Palau.

The Capitol Building at Ngerulmud, the tiny capital of Palau.

Back on land, I spent one day exploring the main (largest) island of Babeldaob in my rental car. Driving around the island is very pleasant thanks to the well-maintained, American-built Palau Compact road. The road circuits the island and can be easily driven in a few hours. Making stops at the various attractions along the way, you should allow half a day.

Babeldaob is home to Palau’s airport, it’s capital, Ngerulmud, and ten of the sixteen states. Each state on the island charges visitors an ‘entrance fee‘ to visit any sites within it’s boundaries. The fees can be up to $20 per person per state so it’s best to decide in advance which sites (and hence which states) you wish to visit. There are almost no restaurants on Babeldaob – the one place I was directed to was the wonderful seaside Okemii Deli & Internet Café in Melekeok. The café offers grilled local seafood along with other café staples.

Emerald tree skink at Papago International resort in Airai state.

Emerald tree skink at Papago International resort in Airai state.

The first state you enter after crossing the causeway from Koror to Babeldaob is Airai. Here you can decide to turn left onto the Palau Compact road and travel clock-wise around Babeldaob or turn right and travel anti-clockwise. Airai is home to the airport and several significant war ruins, including Kaigun Sho – a bombed Japanese communications centre. The state ‘entrance fee’ for visitors is $20 and eager government rangers are out in force patrolling sites to ensure tourists have paid their fee.

Palau Travel Report: Mangrove walkway at Papago International Resort, Airai state.

Mangrove walkway at Papago International Resort, Airai state.

One place worth visiting is the Mangrove walkway at the Papago International resort (5 minutes drive from the airport). For a small fee, visitors can access the resorts’ mangrove boardwalk. It’s a great place to spot birds and other wildlife.

Detail of Aimeliik Bai.

Detail of Aimeliik Bai.

Travelling in a clockwise direction around the island, the next state you enter is Aimeliik – home to one of the oldest villages in Palau and also home to a beautiful hilltop Bai.

Interior of the Aimeliik Bai.

Interior of the Aimeliik Bai.

The state ‘entrance fee’ for visitors is $10 and can be paid at the ticket office next to the Bai.

Palau Gravel Gudie: Bai at Aimeliik.

Bai at Aimeliik.

At the northern end of the island, you can visit Badrulchau monoliths – 37 basalt stone pillars (believed to be foundations from a building) from around 100 AD. Just south of the monoliths – on the north-east coast is the tiny state of Ngiwal (population – 220) – home to one coastal village with sandy beaches.

Low tide at Ngiwal state beach.

Low tide at Ngiwal state beach.

Continuing south you will eventually reach Melekeok state, home to the national capital enclave of Ngerulmud. With a population of just 270, Melekeok is the least-populous capital in the world.

The capital complex at Ngerulmud, a purpose-built capital.

The capital complex at Ngerulmud, a purpose-built capital.

The capital complex is very grand and impressive but not too interesting. You are not allowed to access any of the buildings (I did try to enter the Capital building and was promptly asked to leave by security) but you can wander around the grounds and take photos.

Okemii Deli & Internet Café is located on the beach downhill from the capital complex. There is (apparently) an impressive Bai in Melekeok state but this was closed for renovation at the time of my visit.

Capital buildings, Ngerulmud.

Capital buildings, Ngerulmud.

Koror

Koror is the centre of action on Palau. With 70% of the population and almost all tourists services, Koror is where visitors spend most of their time. This narrow, busy island is traversed by one long, main (permanently congested) road. Along this road are hotels, dive shops, banks, shops, cafes, bars, restaurants, government offices etc. The southern end of the island is home to upmarket resorts, built around quiet, pristine coves.

Traditional Bai at the Belau National museum in Koror.

Traditional Bai at the Belau National museum in Koror.

Belau National Museum

There are two museums on Koror – the older Belau National museum (oldest museum in Micronesia) is home to a beautifully painted Bai and two floors of exhibits, which detail the complete history of Palau.

Detail of Bai at the Belau National Museum.

Detail of Bai at the Belau National Museum.

Etpison Museum

The newer Etpison Museum (named after a former president) is the place to come if you are looking for somewhere to develop a better understanding of Palau culture. The admission cost of $10 is a little steep for such a small museum – but this is Palau.

A display at the Etpison Museum in Koror. 

A display at the Etpison Museum in Koror.

Displays include; a model of a bai; local tools; artefacts; money; clothing; photos showing the childbirth ceremony and more. For Australians visiting the museum – you might be surprised to be greeted by two friendly sulphur-crested cockatoo’s that are kept in a cage inside the front door. Cockatoos were previously introduced to Palau from Australia.

Translucent turtle-shell bowls at the Etpison museum in Koror.

Translucent turtle-shell bowls at the Etpison museum in Koror.

Story Board Wood Carvers

A 'story board' wood carver at his workshop in Koror.

A ‘story board’ wood carver at his workshop in Koror.

If you’re impressed by the traditional ‘storyboard’ wood carvings displayed at the Etpison museum, you should ask staff for directions to the resident expert carver. His roadside studio is located in a side street a short walk north of the museum (turn left at the Blue Bay petrol station).

A Palau 'story board' wood carver in Koror.

A Palau ‘story board’ wood carver in Koror.

Storyboards were introduced into Palau by a Japanese artist during the Japanese occupation of Palau and adapted by the islanders to record their own traditions. The stories that are told on the Palau storyboards are usually old Palau-an legends. You can watch the carvers at work and purchase directly from them (no bargains here).

A traditional Palau 'story board' wood carving.

A traditional Palau ‘story board’ wood carving.

Accommodation

The Hotel Palau Royal Resort.

The Hotel Palau Royal Resort.

Most hotels can be found on the island of Koror – a 30 minute drive from the airport. Like everything else on Palau – accommodation is not cheap. I stayed at the Japanese-owned DW Motel, which is located on the main road close to downtown. The first half of my stay coincided with their peak season, which meant I was charged $140 per night for my single room (definitely not worth the money but it was the cheapest place I could find). The second half of my stay was charged at $70 per night which was more reasonable but still over-priced. Breakfast is not included but you are provided with a clean, small, spartan (TV-less) room.

On the south side of the island are larger, more upmarket resorts. Many of the hotels on the island are Taiwanese-run and not registered on popular OTA (Online Travel Agent) sites such as booking.com

You should ensure you organise airport shuttle transfers in advance – do not assume taxi’s will be available at the airport when you arrive.

Eating Out

While traditional island cuisine is based on root vegetables, pork, chicken, and seafood – there has been enough outside influence (especially from America, Japan and – more recently – Taiwan) on the island that ensures local restaurants cater to a variety of tastes. Strung along the main road of Koror is a good selection of restaurants.

One of my favourite places is the fabulous Rock Island Cafe, an American-diner inspired restaurant staffed by friendly Filipino’s (they constitute the main labour force on the island). The cafe is open from early morning, offering possibly the best (and most reasonably priced) breakfast on the island. They have a bakery next door which supplies the cafe with amazing cakes which are sold very cheaply along with their freshly brewed coffees.

In the south, on the small island of Malakal is the Drop Off Bar and Grill. This outdoor, waterfront venue is perfect for sipping drinks and enjoying fresh local seafood and more.

Visa Requirements

Palau passport stamps.

Palau passport stamps.

Some visitors require visas to enter Palau, check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Flights to Palau arrive at Palau International Airport, 6-km north of Koror.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Palau:

  • Asiana Airlines – flights to Seoul-Incheon
  • China Airlines – flights to Taipei
  • Delta Air Lines – flights to Tokyo-Narita
  • Korean Air – flights to Seoul-Incheon
  • Palau Pacific Airways – charter flights to Hong Kong and Taipei-Taoyuan
  • United Airlines – flights to Guam, Manila and Yap

Departure tax from Palau is a hefty $50 and is comprised of $25 terminal fee and $25 environmental fee.

Getting Around

Bus

There is no public transportation on Palau.

Taxi

Taxi’s are available around Koror – but almost non-existent elsewhere. It’s always best to book a taxi in advance rather than trying to hail one on the street. The fare from Koror to the airport is $25.

When I arrived at the airport (early evening flight from Guam) there were no taxis available. The friendly lady from the tourist information desk tried to arrange a taxi, but no drivers were willing to come out to the airport. She closed the information desk and drove me in her car to my hotel (providing me with a guided tour of the island along the way).

Car

Palau License Plates.

Palau License Plates.

Hire cars are available, but like everything else on Palau – they’re not cheap. At the airport, Alamo quoted $70 a day for a compact car. I shopped around in Koror and found an old (compact) clunker which cost me $40 per day. Cars are often worn and old but the speed limit is 50 km/h and distances are not great.

Palau is divided into sixteen states (most states have just a few hundred residents) with each state having their own number plate.

 


That’s the end of my Palau Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide

Guam Travel Guide

Street Art Guam.

Guam Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guam Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

If you’ve spent time on neighouring islands in Micronesia, you will have become use to a sleepy, laid-back, slow-paced way of life. Guam however is bright lights, big city buzz – a mini Hawaii – and will snap you out of any relaxed, comatose state you may have gotten use to.

Here you will find busy, congested highways, lined with shopping malls (anchored by stores such as Macy’s) and all the usual US chain restaurants. Expensive, high-rise resorts, which cater to a throng of Japanese and Korean tourists, line the shore of emerald-coloured Tumon bay (Guam’s version of Waikiki).

View from Two Lovers Point.

View from Two Lovers Point.

Added into this mix are approximately 7,000 US military personnel (and their families) who are stationed at either Anderson Air Force base in the north or Naval Base Guam on the east coast.

While on Guam it is impossible to escape the US military presence – in any restaurant you will most likely be dining alongside soldiers and their families, bars are full of soldiers and to get to these places you travel along roads such as South Marine Corps Drive, Army Drive etc.

Souvenir of Guam.

Souvenir of Guam.

Guam (population: 160,000) is the biggest and busiest island in Micronesia. The island is an unincorporated and organised territory of the United States (i.e. Guam is controlled by the US government but is not fully part of the United States – as such the US Constitution applies only partially). The official currency is the US dollar.

Guam is a fun place to spend a week, with many different attractions on land and in the pristine, tropical waters which surround the island. Being a US territory – services and infrastructure are well developed, which makes for easy travelling.

Location

Located in the western Pacific (north of the equator, three-quarters of the way from Hawaii to the Philippines), Guam is the southernmost island in the Mariana island chain.

Located off the east coast of the island is the Mariana Trench, which reaches it’s deepest point (10,911 metres/ 35,797 feet) at Challenger Deep, the deepest point on the planet.

In 2012, famous Canadian film maker, James Cameron, was the first human to travel 11 km (6.8 miles) down into the depths of Challenger Deep on a solo voyage in a specially built submarine.

History

Magellan's obelisk at Umatac bay.

Magellan’s obelisk at Umatac bay.

Guam was settled around 2,000 BC by native Chamorros who are believed to have come from Southeast Asia and today comprise 38% of the total population.

The first European contact was in 1521 when Ferdinand Magellan landed on the island – it is here where Magellan encountered the first “indios” since leaving South America.

Despite Magellan’s initial visit, the island was not colonised by Spain until the 17th century who then used it as a stopover point for their Spanish Manila Galleons, which sailed between Mexico and the Philippines.

During the Spanish period, many Filipinos settled on Guam and today comprise 27% of the population.

In 1898 the Spanish surrendered Guam to the United States as part of the settlement of the Spanish-American War. However, the island was then captured during WWII by Japan, just hours after the attack on Pearl Harbour.

The Japanese occupied Guam for the next two-and-a-half years, before U.S. troops were able to recapture the island in 1944. The Americans have been in control every since.

Today, Guam is supported by its tourism industry, with its second largest source of income coming from the United States Armed Forces.

Flag

The flag of Guam.

The flag of Guam.

The flag of Guam is dark blue with a red border on all sides. At the centre, the coat of arms of Guam is an almond-shaped emblem, which depicts a proa (traditional sailing boat) sailing in Agana Bay and GUAM coloured in red letters.

The flag of Guam flying in the capital, Hagåtña.

The flag of Guam flying in the capital, Hagåtña.

Sightseeing

I too was a 'fan' of Guam beer!

I too was a ‘fan’ of Guam beer!

For sightseeing, Guam can be split into three regions:

Northern Region

A large chunk of the northern region is off limits to visitors as its home of the Andersen Air Force Base (AFB), with the base stretching along the entire north coast. One place worth visiting is Ritidian beach on the the north-east coast.

The road to the beach is a pot-holed, rough, gravel road, which follows the perimeter fence of the AFB. While I was bouncing along this road I could look over into the base where I could see a perfectly paved road with absolutely no traffic.

While back-roads on the island can be rough, it seems roads on the bases are in perfect working order.

Ritidian beach is home to the Guam National Wildlife Refuge Unit which provides two miles of coastal walking trails. The refuge is open daily until 4pm. After this time, a locked gate on the main road prohibits any access to the entire area, so best to come during refuge opening hours.

Coco Palm Garden Beach

Coco Palm Garden Beach

Another, much rougher, gravel road (left turn before the refuge gate) follows Ritidian beach.

I drove my (rental) car along this road but it really is only suited to 4WD. Most of the beachfront property is private with fences, gates and ‘no trespassing‘ signs lining the way.

There is nowhere along this road which provides public access to the beach. If you persevere, you’ll eventually reach Coco Palm Garden Beach. This is one over-priced tourist trap. For around $90 each, Japanese and Korean tourists are bussed in from their Tumon Bay resorts, provided a welcome drink, BBQ lunch, access to the beach (rocky/ coral reef), towel and fish food (?).

The whole place closes down early in the afternoon to ensure all tourists are back at their resorts in time for their dinner shows. I arrived at 4pm and was allowed 2 minutes of free access to take one photo of the beach. The staff were not at all welcoming and certainly not happy that I was getting free access.

On West Marine Corps drive in Dededo is the Micronesia Mall – the largest mall on the island.

Okay – if you have arrived on Guam from the real world then this mall will not seem to be anything special, but for those who have spent an inordinate amount of time on any of the sleepy, less-developed neighbouring islands – this is big deal.

Love hearts at Two Lovers Point

Signed love hearts at Two Lovers Point

Just north of Tumon Bay is Two Lovers Point, a dramatic (400 ft) coastal cliff from which it is said two lovers jumped to their death as the father of the girl wanted her to marry a Spanish captain which she refused in the most dramatic way possible.

The views over the Philippine Sea and nearby Tumon Bay are spectacular, as are all the colourful love-heart shaped dedications written by visiting romantic tourists.

Tumon Bay from Two Lovers Point.

View south to Tumon Bay from Two Lovers Point.

Central Region

This is where all the action is and where you will spend most of your time. The central region is home to the tourist hub of Tumon Bay and to the island’s capital – Hagåtña.

Tumon Bay

View of Tumon Bay

View of Tumon Bay

With its stretch of high-rise resorts wrapping around the bay, Tumon is all about rest, relaxation, play and shopping. In between the resorts are large duty free shops catering to the needs of free-spending Japanese and Korean tourists.

It’s here you’ll find US chain restaurants, Sushi & Korean BBQ restaurants, bars & clubs, spas, dinner theatres, speciality shops an Underwater World and everything else package tourists might need to enhance their tropical escape experience.

Tumon Bay Beach

Tumon Bay Beach

During the day, the bay offers fantastic snorkeling – once you get well offshore (unfortunately too many tourists standing on the flat coral heads has killed all the coral close to shore).

Although I wasn’t staying there, I was able to hire snorkel gear from the aquatic sports shop at the Hilton hotel and snorkel directly in front of the hotel (best snorkeling is out to sea from the cove).

Hagåtña

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

Guam’s capital is a small, relaxed, town which features a historic walking path, connecting all sights of interest.  A good place to start is the impressive Guam Museum – the museum tells the history of the island. Directly outside the museum is a sculpture commemorating the visit of Pope John Paul II to the island in 1981.

Across the road from the museum is the historic Plaza de Espana, which was the location of the Governor’s Palace during the island’s period of Spanish occupation.

The palace housed the office and residence of the Spanish governor but was largely destroyed during the liberation of Guam in 1944. Today a few structures remain, including the the Chocolate House, the “Azotea” and the Almacen gate. 

Statue of Pope John Paul II and Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral Basilica in Hagåtña

Statue of Pope John Paul II and Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral Basilica in Hagåtña

Next to Plaza de Espana, is the contemporary Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral-Basilica while behind the Plaza is the Senator Angel Leon Guerrero Santos Memorial Park.

The park contains 8 ancient lattes. Nothing to do with coffee – latte’s were used in the Mariana islands as house supports, with a cap at the top to discourage rats and other vermin climbing up into the house.  

Weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village.

Weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village.

Towards the harbour, the Chamorro village is a great place for souvenir shopping and (only on Wednesday evenings) the best BBQ in town. The best time to visit is early in the evening with lots of pop-up shops and BBQ vendors.

The earlier you order food the better as the lines get progressively longer as the night goes on, with everyone from locals, tourists and military families turning out.

Southern Region

The southern part of the island features small, quiet coastal hamlets built around picturesque bays. I covered this part of the island on a leisurely day trip following a circuitous route from Hagåtña by first crossing the island on highway 4 to the east coast (Pago Bay) then travelling clockwise around the bottom of the island back to Hagåtña.

The east coast lies on the windward side of the island hence the beaches are much more dramatic and exposed than those on the west coast.

Talofofo Falls.

Talofofo Falls.

In Talofofo bay, Talofofo falls are worth the short detour off the coastal road. The falls consist of a series of scenic cascades on the Talofofo River and are reached by way of a very lazy cable car which transports you down into the gorge where the falls are located.

A series of paths and bridges leads you around the falls back to the cable car.

Entrance to Yokoi's cave.

Entrance to Yokoi’s cave.

Also at the falls is “Yokoi’s Cave“, a replica of the original cave, which was located at the same sight but previously destroyed by a typhoon.

This fascinating survival story involves a Japanese soldier who survived the US liberation of the island in 1944 by hiding in a small cave in the jungle. Yokoi survived for the next 27 years, sourcing water from the river and food from the jungle until he was discovered in 1972 by two local hunters.

He believed Japan was still at war and didn’t want to surrender. He eventually returned to Japan to a hero’s welcome (and to receive $300 in back pay).

Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad.

Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad.

As you travel around the southern tip of the island onto the west coast, highway 4 becomes highway 2 as you enter Umatac bay.

This picturesque bay was where Magellan landed in 1521. At the centre of the bay is an obelisk monument commemorating his landing, bearing the inscription, “Magellan landed here.”

It was also here in 1565 that Miguel Lopez de Legazpi dropped anchor and stayed for thirteen days, formally claiming Guam for Spain.

On either side of the bay are two forts (Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad and Fort Santo Angelo), which were built during the Spanish colonial period to protect the bay from pirates and other European explorers.

Continuing north along the west coast you’ll soon reach Naval Base Guam. Next to the entrance of the base is the T. Stell Newman Visitor Centre, part of the War in the Pacific National Historical Park.

The friendly, informative staff can provide you with a map of the park and information on what to see. Most of the points of interest (former battlefields, trenches and historic structures) lie along the coast north of the Naval base. The park tells the story of war in the Pacific and details the US liberation of Guam in 1944, which resulted in the defeat of the Japanese.

 

Accommodation

Most visitors to Guam stay in expensive resorts - such as the Guam Hilton - on beautiful Tumon Bay, the Waikiki of Guam.

Most visitors to Guam stay in expensive resorts – such as the Guam Hilton – on beautiful Tumon Bay, the Waikiki of Guam.

Most hotels on the island are located along the long curving shore of beautiful Tumon bay, a short drive from the airport.

These hotels are large scale, high-rise resorts which cater to Japanese, Korean and (increasingly) Chinese tourists who jet in for a few days of rest and relaxation.

These tourists arrive on fully escorted tours with lots of money to spend in a short time, hence hotels around the bay are never cheap. If you wish to check these options, you will find them on sites such as booking.com

I used Airbnb to find a more reasonably priced apartment, which was perfect for my stay

Eating Out

Thanks to it being a US territory (and home-away-from-home for thousands of military personnel and their families), Guam offers more dining options than any other island in Micronesia.

All the usual US chain restaurants are represented on the island. You can start your day with breakfast at Denny’s, lunch at Apple-Bee’s and finish with dinner at the Texas Steakhouse. Its a glutton’s paradise!

Added into the mix are numerous Japanese and Korean restaurants in Tumon Bay, which cater to the throngs of Japanese and Korean tourists.

Lunch at McKraut's German restaurant in Inarajan.

Lunch at McKraut’s German restaurant in Inarajan.

If you’re in the mood for fine German cuisine, you cannot go past the legendary McKraut’s German restaurant, which is located in the village of Inarajan on the remote south-east coast.

The drive from Tumon Bay is about an hour but if you are exploring the south east coast then this is the perfect place to stop for lunch or dinner.

One ‘must do’ culinary experience on the island is the weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village in Hagåtña (see that section for more details).

McKraut's German restaurant

Bar at McKraut’s German restaurant

For a taste of local Chomoro cuisine, the Meskla Chamoro Bistro in Hagåtña is an excellent choice. The restaurant was founded by a local celebrity chief (Peter Duenas) who’s aim has been to highlight Chomoro cuisine. This is a popular place so reservations are recommended.

Visa Requirements

Entry requirements for Guam are the same as the USA . Check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

The view from my flight on United Airlines "Island Hopper" (UA154) on final approach to Guam.

The view from my flight on United Airlines “Island Hopper” (UA154) on final approach to Guam.

By Air

Flights to Guam arrive at Antonio B. Won Pat International Airport (named after the first delegate from Guam to the United States House of Representatives). The airport is built on a high ridge above Tumon Bay and is within a three hour flight of major Asian cities in Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan and the Philippines.

The airport serves as a regional hub for United Airlines, however most flights are operated by Korean and Japanese carriers who carry hoards of holiday-makers to the island each day.

Guam airport is the terminus for the epic United Airlines Island Hopper (UA154) – for more on this, please refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Guam:

  • Air Busan – flight to Busan
  • Cebu Pacific – flight to Manila
  • China Airlines – flight to Taipei–Taoyuan
  • Delta Air Lines – flight to Tokyo–Narita
  • EVA Air – flight to Taipei – Taoyuan
  • HK Express – flight to Hong Kong
  • Japan Airlines – flight to Tokyo–Narita
  • Jeju Air – flights to Busan, Seoul–Incheon
  • Jin Air – flights to Busan, Seoul–Incheon
  • Korean Air – flights to Osaka–Kansai, Seoul–Incheon
  • Philippine Airlines – flight to Manila
  • Star Marianas Airflights to Rota, Saipan
  • T’way Airlines – flights to Daegu, Osaka–Kansai, Seoul–Incheon
  • United Airlines – flights to Chuuk, Fukuoka, Hong Kong, Honolulu, Koror, Kosrae, Kwajalein, Majuro, Manila, Nagoya–Centrair, Osaka–Kansai, Pohnpei, Sapporo–Chitose, Sendai, Shanghai–Pudong, Tokyo–Narita, Yap
  • United Express – flights to Rota, Saipan

Getting Around

The license plate on my rental car.

The license plate on my rental car.

Bus

The Guam Regional Transit Authority operates inexpensive public buses which cover most places on the island. Services are not very frequent and only operate Monday – Saturday (no service Sunday or public holidays). If you wish to maximise your time on the island then car rental is the best option.

Taxi

Taxis are available in the main tourist areas with a fare from the airport to Tumon Bay costing about $6.

Rental Car

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

While public buses provide island-wide service, many attractions are off the beaten track, hence the best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

Daily charges on Guam are much more reasonable than those on neighbouring islands, with all the main rental companies operating from the airport. I hired a car through Alamo at a very competitive rate. Signage on the island is poor (typical for the region) so either a good map or navigation device is recommended.

 


That’s the end of my Guam Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide 

Chuuk Travel Guide

A shop in Weno town selling traditional Chuukese dresses.

Chuuk Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Chuuk Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

As my torchlight made a sweep of the dark, watery space, I could see five Japanese war planes – Zero bombers – parked side-by-side, disassembled to facilitate transportation. I was 26 metres below the Chuuk lagoon and had just descended into one of the holds of the wrecked Fujikawa Maru. Built in 1938 by the Mitsubishi Company as a passenger and cargo carrier, the Japanese Navy took possession of the Fujikawa in the early days of WWII and converted her into an aircraft ferry.

Fujikawa Maru

Fujikawa Maru

Just prior to “Operation Hailstone”, the Fujikawa Maru had arrived in Chuuk where she off-loaded thirty bombers at a Japanese airfield. She would never leave Chuuk and on the day of Operation Hailstone she was still carrying the Zero bombers in her hold – the bombers that I was now diving around.

Chuuk Travel Guide: A shop in downtown Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

A shop in downtown Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

Welcome to Chuuk, one of the states of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) and the premier wreck diving capital of the world. In other places you can dive a single wreck, on Chuuk you can dive a whole fleet.

Chuuk Travel Guide: Storm clouds over Chuuk Lagoon.

Storm clouds over Chuuk Lagoon.

While Chuuk is another beautiful, remote, Pacific atoll, the main reason travellers come here is to dive the plethora of wrecks which lay at the bottom of the lagoon. Chuuk offers world-class wreck diving and with over 60 wrecks, from supply vessels (Maru) to planes and a submarine, there is plenty to keep divers busy.

United Airlines' UA154 on approach to Chuuk International Airport.

Truk or Chuuk? What’s in a name?  To the Chuukese, their home has always been ‘Chuuk‘. To the Germans (who once colonised the island), Chuuk was difficult to pronounce – to them it sounded like ‘Truuk‘. Once the American GI’s arrived, they pronounced it ‘Truk‘ and that name stuck during the many years that Truk was part of the (US-administered) Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI). Following independence, the island reverted back to it’s original name of ‘Chuuk‘.

Stormy skies over Chuuk lagoon.

Stormy skies over Chuuk lagoon.

Location

Chuuk is located north of the equator, between Hawaii and the Philippines. It’s one of the four states of FSM, with the state of Yap to the west and Pohnpei and Kosrae to the east.

Chuuk, Federated States of Micronesia

At a circumference of 225 kilometres (140 mi), the lagoon is the world’s largest – it’s protective barrier reef (the remnants of an ancient volcano) enclose a cluster of small islands, which were once the mountain peaks on the volcano. All services (and infrastructure) are to be found on the administrative island of Weno, with everything being connected by one (not too long), main road.

Weno is the atoll’s capital and, with a population of 12,000 people, is the largest city in the FSM. The outer islands are either uninhabited or contain villagers living a subsistence lifestyle.

History

A Japanese WWII memorial in downtown Weno, Chuuk.

A Japanese WWII memorial in downtown Weno, Chuuk.

The early history of Chuuk is unknown but it is clear from archaeological digs that people have inhabited the area since the 1st or 2nd century BC. The first recorded sighting of the islands were made by the Spanish in 1528.

The Spanish would later claim the islands (by simply raising a flag) but never established any permanent settlement. In 1899, the Spanish sold the islands to the German empire, but following Germany’s defeat in WWI, the Japanese where given control of the islands under a mandate from the League of Nations.

During WWII, the Japanese used Chuuk as their main Naval base in the South Pacific. From here, they launched operations against Allied forces in the region. Japanese military engineers converted Chuuk into a formidable fortress, with roads, trenches, bunkers, caves, airstrips, seaplane bases, a torpedo boat station, submarine repair shops, a communications centre and a radar station. All of this came to a spectacular, fiery end on February 17, 1944 during Operation Hailstone (see following section).

Following WWII, Chuuk was made one of six districts of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI), which were administered by the United States under a UN charter. Independence was finally granted to the Federated States of Micronesia (Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk & Yap) in 1990.

More recently, a ‘Chuuk Independence’ movement has gained popularity which, if successful, could see the break up of the FSM.

Operation Hailstone 

Operation Hailstone

Operation Hailstone. Source: Wikipedia

If it wasn’t for Operation Hailstone, Chuuk would be just another quiet, remote backwater. On February 17, 1944, the island’s place in history would be ensured forever when American forces commenced a three day bombing campaign, the aim of which was to completely destroy the naval base and all ships in the lagoon.

The relentless aerial bombardment resulted in the sinking of more than 60 warships, planes and a submarine. A 10 minute propaganda film – Yanks Smash Truk (filmed by an embedded cameraman aboard one of the bombers), provides you with a sense of the ferocity of the bombardment.

Diving

A map showing the many Japanese wrecks in Chuuk Lagoon.

A map showing the many Japanese wrecks in Chuuk Lagoon.

As a result of Operation Hailstone, Chuuk lagoon is the world’s largest ship graveyard, with the wrecked Japanese fleet now known as the ‘Ghost Fleet of Truk Lagoon‘. The fleet was first brought to the world’s attention in 1969 when Jacques Cousteau and the Calypso team explored the lagoon and it’s wrecks, producing the TV documentary “Lagoon of Lost Ships“. The documentary put Chuuk on the world diving map and changed the fortunes of the island.

A local diver, Kimiuo Aisek, who as a 17-year-old witnessed Operation Hailstone, opened the islands first dive shop in 1973 at the Blue Lagoon Resort. Today the dive shop is one of two on Weno offering dive trips. A museum at the resort displays artefacts salvaged from some of the wrecks.

Today the island is a magnet for divers with the majority of wrecks being within recreational diving limits (30-40 metres / 100-130 feet) and close to shore. For those who prefer zero commuting to their dive sites, a few live-aboard options are available, these include the SS Thorfin, Odyssey and the Truk Master.

Chuuk Travel Guide: The boat jetty at Truk Stop hotel.

The boat jetty at Truk Stop hotel.

An excellent map of the wreck’s is printed by Franko Map’s (see above image) and is available for purchase on Amazon. The Truk Lagoon Dive Centre offer an online, interactive map, which provides detailed information on various wrecks. I did four dives with Truk Lagoon Dive Centre, these were:

Heian Maru

The Heian Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Heian Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The largest wreck (11,600 tons) I dived was the giant Heian Maru – this was featured by Jacques Cousteau in his original documentary. Located between 12 metres and 33 metres, the Heian carried supplies for Japanese submarines. We explored inside the forward hold’s, where we saw long lance torpedoes and then into the companionways, where we saw periscopes and other equipment.

Yamagiri Maru

Chuuk Travel Guide: The Yamagiri Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Yamagiri Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

On the Yamagiri Maru (located at a depth of 15 metres – 33 metres) we explored a hold which contained a supply of huge 18.1″ armour piercing shells, with each shell weighing 1,400 kg. Also on-board was a steamroller and other construction equipment.

Fujikawa Maru

The Fujikawa Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Fujikawa Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

Located at a depth of between 9 metres and 34 metres, the Fujikawa Maru is considered the best dive site in Chuuk – this is a ‘must dive’. The main smoke stack is reached at just 6 metres, with her deck at 18 metres. On the bow of the deck is an impressive (coral encrusted), 6-inch (152 mm) bow gun.

In one of the forward hold’s are four disassembled Mitsubishi fighter aircraft along with machine guns, shells and other ammunition. Other structures we explored included the galley, engine room, staterooms, bathrooms and the pilothouse. The entire ship is covered in an abundance of soft corals, which attracts a wealth of marine life. A magical diving experience.

Shinkoku Maru

The Shinkoku Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Shinkoku Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Skinkoku Maru is one of the most popular dives in Chuuk. The ship served as a naval tanker and offers a myriad number of rooms (all largely intact) for the diver to explore. The ship was sunk upright with a large bomb hole visible in her port side.

Th ship lies between 12 metres – 38 metres, with her main deck at 18 metres. During the dive we explored the crew quarters, engine room, sick bay, wheelhouse, the galley (complete with porcelain dishes, stove, utensils and other kitchenware) and the deck. The deck is covered in an amazing array of soft corals which attracts a huge amount of fish.

Island Sights

Chuuk Travel Guide: A shop in Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

A shop in Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

The terrestrial attractions on Chuuk are limited, which isn’t a problem since most visitors are here for the underwater attractions. A walk along the main street will hold your interest for about 1 hour, during which time you can check out the shops, purchase super cheap local coconut oil (US$2 for a one litre PET bottle) or buy some fresh fruit. All Chuukese ladies wear the traditional Chuukese dress, which are sold in shops along the main street.

A neighbourhood on Weno island flooded after a recent storm.

A neighbourhood on Weno island flooded after a recent storm.

Outside of town there are some walking trails which will take you up onto the surrounding hilltops. The trails are rough and poorly marked so a local guide is recommended. You can also visit neighbouring atolls for the day, however there are no services or facilities available on these.

A bottle of locally made coconut oil costs US$2 in Weno.

A bottle of locally made coconut oil costs US$2 in Weno.

Accommodation

United Airlines' UA154 on the runway at Chuuk International Airport with my hotel, Hotel Level 5, visible in the background.

United Airlines’ UA154 on the runway at Chuuk International Airport with my hotel, Hotel Level 5, visible in the background.

There are just a few hotels on Weno, but these are more than enough to cater to the small trickle of travellers who make it here.

Directly opposite the airport is the Level 5 Hotel. I stayed here and I’m glad I did. I visited every hotel on the island and, in my opinion, this is the best. The spacious, comfortable rooms are newly renovated and the ground floor features the best café/ restaurant on the island.

The hotel also features the only elevator on Chuuk but interestingly the locals avoid it – they are either afraid of it or just not use to using one. When it comes time to leave, the airport is across the road. Despite its close proximity to the airport, the hotel offers a shuttle service and will be waiting to pick you up when you arrive – the shortest shuttle connection I’ve ever had.

Also within walking distance of the airport is the High Tide Hotel. This family-run hotel offers older style rooms and a good restaurant, which serves reasonably priced, generous portions of local seafood.

Chuuk Travel Guide: The Truk Stop Hotel at Chuuk, one of the few hotels on Chuuk.

The Truk Stop Hotel at Chuuk, one of the few hotels on Chuuk.

For divers who prefer to stay somewhere with an onsite dive shop, there are two options:

  1. The closest to downtown is Truk Stop Hotel. This is a family run hotel, whose American owner has been a key proponent of the local tourism (i.e. diving) industry for many years. The 23 hotel rooms are old and dated but a new wing was under construction during my visit (Feb 2017). Besides being home to just one of two dive shops on the island, the hotel offers a restaurant and two bars. If you wish to socialise, this is the only real option on the island.
  2.  The other option, Blue Lagoon Resort, is the most upmarket property on the island and the most expensive, although rooms here are in need of renovation. The resort dive shop was the first established on the island by local diving pioneer Kimiuo Aisek. The resort is located 8 km south of the airport away from the downtown area. The shared ‘town’ taxis (which regularly shuttle along the main road) do not travel this far south (the road is in terrible condition) so you will need to hire a taxi to reach the resort.

Eating Out

Options are limited, with the few hotels providing the only restaurants. My favourite place (and the ‘go to’ place for the best coffee) is the restaurant/ café at the Level 5 Hotel. This is a sister operation of a café in Honolulu and features the only espresso machine on the island. The café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is a popular spot for those waiting for the (often delayed) United Airlines Island Hopper.

The restaurant at Truk Stop Hotel is very popular, with a good selection of food and drinks and always a good ambience. There’s a restaurant at the Blue Lagoon Resort (the only dining option at this end of the island) and at High Tide Hotel.

Visa Requirements

Chuuk Passport Stamps.

Chuuk Passport Stamps.

Some nationalities require visas for the Federated States of Micronesia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

United Airlines' UA154 departing from Chuuk.

United Airlines’ UA154 departing from Chuuk.

By Air

Chuuk Travel Guide: The terminal building at Chuuk International airport.

The terminal building at Chuuk International airport.

Flights to Chuuk arrive at Chuuk International Airport on the island of Weno. This sleepy airport is a short walk from the downtown area and several hotels. For more details on UA154 and Chuuk Airport, refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

Chuuk Travel Guide: United Airlines' UA154 departing from Chuuk.

United Airlines’ UA154 departing from Chuuk.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Chuuk:

  • Air Niugini – flights to Pohnpei and Port Moresby (with connections onto Australia, Singapore and Manila).
  • United Airlines – flights to Guam, Honolulu, Kosrae, Kwajalein, Majuro, Pohnpei
Asia Pacific Air Airlines, Chuuk Airport.

All freight in Micronesia arrives courtesy of two companies – Matson Shipping Line or Asia Pacific Airlines (seen here at Chuuk Airport).

Getting Around

Bus

There are no public buses on Weno.

Taxi

Taxi’s on Weno cost between $1 to $2 depending on distance travelled. The distance from the airport to the Blue Lagoon resort (one end of the island to the other) is about 5 miles.

Car

The Level 5 Hotel offers expensive (US$70 per day) car rental but there’s no need to hire a car on an island with one short road, which is covered by frequent (and cheap) shared taxis.

Chuuk promotes itself as a Diver's Haven.

Chuuk promotes itself as a Diver’s Haven.

 


That’s the end of my Chuuk Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide  Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide

Pohnpei Travel Guide

Smiling girl on Pohnpei.

Pohnpei Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Pohnpei Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

After an hour of climbing in the sweltering, humid, heat – under the direct glare of the tropical sun – I’d finally made it to the summit of Sokehs ridge – a point marked by a very unceremonious communications tower.

View of the fringing reef that protects Pohnpei from Sokehs Ridge.

View of the fringing reef that protects Pohnpei from Sokehs Ridge.

From here I had a panoramic view of the northern tip of Pohnpei. In the valley below, the capital – Kolonia – was slowly being enveloped by a fierce tropical storm. Like a deer staring into the headlights, I stood and watched as the storm clouds slowly rolled across the landscape towards me. T

A storm moving over Kolonia, the capital of Pohnpei, as seen from Sokehs ridge.

A storm moving over Kolonia, the capital of Pohnpei, as seen from Sokehs ridge.

Then the inevitable happened – first one drop, then another, then the heaven’s opened up – but after the long, hot climb, all that cool water was so refreshing. I had found a sheltered place for my camera bag, but as for me – I stood out in the open with my arms and mouth open, getting soaked and slurping the tropical rainwater.

After the storm cleared, I had a magnificent view of Sokehs rock, a 100m high exposed basalt volcanic plug that shoots up out of the lush green landscape and is the most striking feature of Pohnpei’s topography. The island gets it’s name from this feature – “upon (pohn) a stone altar (pei)”.

Just a few days earlier I had had a bird’s eye view of the rock from my seat (32D) on board United Airlines’ Island Hopper (UA154) as we passed by the rock on our final approach to Pohnpei airport.

Nature abounds on Pohnpei - the 'garden of Micronesia'.

Nature abounds on Pohnpei – the ‘garden of Micronesia’.

Pohnpei (formerly ‘Ponape’) is one of the four states, which comprise the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) and bills itself as ‘the Garden of Micronesia‘. You don’t need to spend much time on the island to realise this is not some over-hyped slogan created by local tourism officials.

Due to it being one of the wettest places on earth (annual recorded rainfall exceeding 76-cm/ 300-in), Pohnpei is full of lush, tropical, vegetation, a place where colourful, flowering plants frame every view. Visiting Pohnpei is like holidaying on an over-sized botanical garden – it’s that beautiful.

These handmade decorations are made by a woman's coop in Kolonia.

These handmade decorations are made by a woman’s coop in Kolonia.

The island is surrounded by a fringing reef, which provides protection and so much more for the island. Surfing is popular on the reef and more and more intrepid surfers are finding their way to this remote island to ride the famed waves of Palikir pass. The reef also offers diving, snorkeling and fishing opportunities.

The view of the fringing reef which surrounds Pohnpei from my seat on United Airlines' Island Hopper.

The view of the fringing reef which surrounds Pohnpei from my seat on United Airlines’ Island Hopper.

Almost all services on Pohnpei are located in the capital of Kolonia so this is the place to base yourself during your visit. The town has a population of 6,000 (almost the entire population of neighbouring Kosrae) so if you are coming from quiet Kosrae you will notice the hustle and bustle. There’s one road which circumnavigates the island and provides access to all the sights of interest.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses. These are worn by almost every girl on the island.

The island has many natural attractions and many good restaurants and bars in Kolonia – enough to keep you busy for a few days.

Very cute! Flower Girl on Pohnpei.

Very cute! Flower Girl on Pohnpei.

Location

Federated States of Micronesia

Pohnpei is located in the middle of nowhere, midway between Hawaii and The Philippines. It’s part of the Federated States of Micronesia, being located at the eastern end of the Caroline Islands group.

Distance marker in Kolonia - everywhere is a long way from Pohnpei.

Distance marker in Kolonia – everywhere is a long way from Pohnpei.

The island is volcanic and mountainous, with those mountains being covered in verdant rainforests and cascading waterfalls.

History

Archaeologists estimate that people came to Pohnpei between 2,000 and 3,000 years ago from Southeast Asia. The first European contact was with the Spanish in 1529.

The Spanish made the island part of the Spanish East Indies (along with The Philippines) and founded the city of Santiago de la Ascension. This city was later renamed Colonia (Spanish for colony) which was in turn renamed to today’s Kolonia.

The elusive Pohnpei Lorikeet seen on Sokehs ridge.

The elusive Pohnpei Lorikeet seen on Sokehs ridge.

Rule of the island passed from Spain to Germany to Japan then (following the defeat of the Japanese during WWII) to the United States. The US administered the island (under UN auspices) as part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands until 1986 at which point the island obtained independence as one of four states (along with Yap, Chuuk, and Kosrae) comprising The Federated States of Micronesia. 

Shipping containers on Pohnpei are used in creative ways.

Shipping containers on Pohnpei are used in creative ways.

The standout historical feature of the island (and it’s top attraction) is the impressive ancient ruins of Nan Madol – the most impressive ruins complex in the Pacific. For more on Nan Madol, refer to the sightseeing section below.

Flag

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) was adopted on 30 November 1978. The blue field represents the Pacific Ocean, while the four stars represent the states in the federation: Chuuk, Pohnpei, Kosrae and Yap.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

In centuries past, the islands of FSM, notably Yap, used stone currency, which was referred to as “Rai” or “Fei”. Impossibly large and too heavy to carry, this traditional currency, which seemed to be more suited to a giant, was crafted from Calcite, which was carved into doughnut-shaped disks.

Yap Stone Currency.

Yap Stone Currency.
Source: https://medium.com/the-mission/the-island-of-yap-and-the-idea-of-money-9f570421d854

Today, along with all former members of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of FSM is the US dollar which is so much easier to carry.

Betel-Nut

Betel-Nut for sale at a shop in Kolonia.

Betel-Nut for sale at a shop in Kolonia.

Betel nut is a popular stimulant on Pohnpei and can be found in shops and markets across the island.

A form of local chewing tobacco, the betel nut is split open and powdered with lime, wrapped with pepper plant leaf and then placed in the mouth where it is chewed. Am indicator of beetle nut use is an orange mouth  a result of chewing

It’s a practice found throughout the FSM, but Pohnpei and Yap have it in abundance and it is a relatively important exported cash-crop for the local economies.

Sights

With the exception of Nan Madol and a few colonial relics scattered around Kolonia, most sights on the island are of the natural kind. The other joy of travelling on Pohnpei are the locals. Without exception, they are friendly, warm and welcoming.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses.

Due to the complete lack of transport on the island you will need to hire a car if you wish to explore beyond Kolonia (you should definitely get out of town). There is one ring road around the island which is 130-km in length. You can cover all sights in one full day.

There are very few petrol stations outside of Kolonia so better to have a full tank before leaving town. I’ve covered the sights as you will approach them if you travel in an anti-clockwise direction around the island, with Kolonia at the 12 o’clock position.

Girl on Pohnpei.

No shortage of smiles on Pohnpei.

Kolonia

With a population of 6,000, Kolonia is the capital and main city of Pohnpei. With a few roads, a handful of shops and all of the (limited) tourist services on the island, the town is the centre of action but very quiet and relaxed. There are few sights (a German clock tower and a Spanish stone wall) but it is a pleasant place to spend an hour or two exploring.

Sokehs Ridge

Sokehs Rock, a gigantic exposed basalt volcanic plug is the most striking feature of Pohnpei's topography.

Sokehs Rock, a gigantic exposed basalt volcanic plug is the most striking feature of Pohnpei’s topography.

Overlooking Kolonia is the impressive Sokehs Ridge. The hike up to the top of the ridge offers a good workout and is best done early morning or late afternoon. If you have a car you can park it in the car park of the police station at the start of the tarmac road which leads part way up the ridge.

Eventually the tarmac road becomes a dirt road (still passable in a 4WD) before reaching a level ridge from which point you must walk. This is the start of a very steep trail which climbs up to the ridge from where you will have the most amazing views of Kolonia and the Pacific. This is a long, sweaty slog on a remote ridge so ensure you are carrying ample water.

Japanese war memorial on Sokeh's ridge.

Japanese war memorial on Sokeh’s ridge.

Once you reach the top of the ridge (you’ll probably have the ridge to yourself) you can follow trails which take you to Japanese WWII ruins and eventually onto the communications tower from where you have panoramic views of the northern side of the island.

Palikir

FSM capital, Palikir

The FSM capital, Palikir, is located in a small administrative enclave on a side road of Pohnpei.

Just 8-km south of Kolonia is a right-hand turn off the main road, which leads to Palikir – the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia.

Government buildings in sleepy Palikir.

Government buildings in sleepy Palikir.

The capital is a tiny planned enclave of little consequence, with uniformly designed buildings arranged around a small park area. I visited on a weekend and had the place to myself – there was no sign of life – no cafes, restaurants or services of any kind.

Nan Madol

The impressive walls of Nan Madol.

The impressive walls of Nan Madol.

Located in a remote coastal setting, about 90 minutes south of Kolonia (along the east coast), Nan Madol is the one ‘must see’ attraction on Pohnpei. If this was anywhere else in the world you would be lining up to buy a ticket and jostling with hoards of tourists who would be constantly photo-bombing your shots.

But here – on remote Pohnpei – you will probably have the sight to yourself. The ruined city is very impressive and extensive, but the addition of being in such a remote place makes a visit a truly unique experience.

You reach the ruins after a 10 minute walk along a track, which leads you through a steamy mangrove forest. You have to pay three different  property owners an ‘access’ fee along the way, the last payment (US$5) is to the man who transports you across a narrow channel in his kayak, dropping you at the main entrance to the ruins.

A diagram of the sprawling Nan Madol complex.

A diagram of the sprawling Nan Madol complex.

It is believed Nan Madol was constructed by the same people who built the Leluh site on Kosrae (for more on that refer to my Kosrae blog). The city was constructed in a lagoon and consists of a series of small artificial islands (nearly 100) spread over an area of 1.5 km by 0.5 km.

There is no public transport to Nan Madol, you can reach the ruins either by car or by joining a tour.

Kepirohi Waterfall

Pohnpei Travel Guide: Kepirohi waterfall is located a short drive from Nan Madol.

Kepirohi waterfall is located a short drive from Nan Madol.

Located north of the Nan Madol turnoff (look for the roadside sign) is this beautiful Basalt waterfall. To access the falls, you first pay an ‘access’ fee to the property owner who occupies a shed by the main road.

You then have a 5 minute walk along a lush, forested trail to the falls. This is a great place to cool off after a sweaty day of sightseeing so don’t forget your swimmers.

Accommodation

Like everything else, Kolonia is where it’s at in terms of accommodation options on Pohnpei. I stayed in the conveniently located 7-stars Inn, a short walk from the downtown area. Rooms here are spacious and comfortable and include free Wi-Fi.

One of the more popular restaurants in town, The Riverside Restaurant, is located in the basement of the hotel, along with one of the only sports bars on the island. The hotel provides a free airport shuttle service.

Another popular (but more expensive) option is the Mangrove Bay hotel. The hotel is a little further from downtown Kolonia but is more relaxing and includes a PADI dive shop and boat transport for surfers wishing to catch a ride to Palikir pass. For all hotels it’s best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

The fiery Pohnpei pepper is grown in the south of the island at a garden owned by Sei.

The fiery Pohnpei pepper is grown in the south of the island at a garden owned by Sei.

There are plenty of wonderful restaurants, bars and cafes on Pohnpei – all located in Kolonia.

One place which deserves a special mention is the friendly, Japanese owned Sei Pepper shop. Mr Sei grows his pepper on a farm located on the southern side of Pohnpei, however the only place to buy his pepper is from his shop on the main street of Kolonia (located a short walk from the 7-stars Inn).

The delicious organic Pohnpei coffee available at Sei.

The delicious organic Pohnpei coffee available at Sei.

The cafe is a meeting place for the local Japanese community who come together to sip the local Pohnpei coffee, which has a very bold, robust flavour. Attached to the cafe is a curry house where you can sample tasty curries made with Pohnpei pepper and other locally grown spices.

The amazing pepper donuts at Sei Cafe - a fiery experience!

The amazing pepper donuts at Sei Cafe – a fiery experience!

A specialty of the restaurant are the fiery Pohnpei Pepper Donuts, which you can wash down with a cup of Pohnpei coffee.

 


The Japanese Community in Micronesia

The Sei cafe serves as a meeting place for the Japanese community on Pohnpei.

The Sei cafe serves as a meeting place for the Japanese community on Pohnpei.

Japan has enjoyed close ties with Micronesia throughout history, and, at the time of WWII in 1942, there were 96,000 Japanese who called Micronesia home.

After the war, the Japanese population were repatriated back to Japan, however most people of mixed Japanese–Micronesian ethnicity remained in the islands and constituted a substantial percentage in the islands’ population. They became assimilated with the Micronesians, and in all official census they are identified by their Micronesian heritage.

If you’re interested to learn more about the Japanese connection to Micronesia, the Sei cafe in Kolonia is a good place to start your enquiries.


 

There are numerous restaurants in Kolonia – my favourite was the restaurant at the Joy Hotel. This restaurant serves amazing Japanese food (including the freshest sushi and sashimi) at very reasonable prices. All ingredients were fresh and nicely presented. I ate here more than once and would especially recommend ordering the ‘Joy special’.

For more upscale dining, there is the waterfront restaurant at the Mangrove Bay hotel.

A refreshing drink throughout FSM is iced tea – always made from fresh black tea, which is served in a glass with lots of cool ice. The sweetener (always simple syrup) is served on the side so you can decide on your level of sweetness.

Iced Tea served with simple syrup on the side in a cafe in Kolonia.

Iced Tea served with simple syrup on the side in a cafe in Kolonia.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for the Micronesia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

Boarding United Airlines' Island Hopper (UA154) at Pohnpei airport.

Boarding United Airlines’ Island Hopper (UA154) at Pohnpei airport.

By Air

Arriving at Pohnpei Airport.

Arriving at Pohnpei Airport.

Flights to Pohnpei arrive at Pohnpei International Airport. If you are seated on the right side of the plane you will have a spectacular view of Sokehs Ridge on the final approach.  For more on Pohnpei airport, refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Pohnpei:

  • Air Niugini – offers international flights to Chuuk and Port Moresby with onward connections to Australia and other Pacific/ Asian destinations.
  • United Airlines – offers international flights to Chuuk, Guam, Honolulu, Kosrae, Kwajalein and Majuro.
A view of the terminal at Pohnpei airport.

A view of the terminal at Pohnpei airport.

Getting Around

Bus

There are no buses on Pohnpei.

Taxi

There are a few taxis available in Kolonia.

Car

The license plate of my rental car on Pohnpei.

The license plate of my rental car on Pohnpei.

There are very few rental companies on Pohnpei but you will need a car if you wish to explore on your own. I hired a car through my hotel at $65 a day. Although expensive – I had a very nice, brand new, KIA Sportage – perfect for the bumpy, potholed roads outside of Kolonia. I felt like a ‘boss’ cruising around in my SUV and definitely didn’t want to give it up but United couldn’t fit it on the island hopper flight. :-))

As mentioned previously, fuel supply outside of Kolonia is limited so best to ensure you have a full tank prior to leaving town. If you do get stuck you can find roadside stalls selling fuel by the gallon ($5/ gallon).

I saw just one petrol station outside of Kolonia. Elsewhere you can purchase fuel from small roadside stalls.

I saw just one petrol station outside of Kolonia. Elsewhere you can purchase fuel from small roadside stalls.

 

 


That’s the end of my Pohnpei Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide

Kosrae Travel Guide

View of Kosrae Island.

Kosrae Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Kosrae Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

Looking out the window from my usual seat (32D) on the United Airlines Island Hopper, I saw a spectacular sight rising up out of the cobalt blue depths of the Pacific – a magnificent emerald-coloured, volcanic pinnacle.

This must be Kosrae (pronounced “Kosh-rye“), the island of the sleeping lady  the most easterly state in the Federated States of Micronesia.

The profile of the main mountain range, which is said to resemble a 'sleeping lady'.

The profile of the main mountain range, which is said to resemble a ‘sleeping lady’.

Remote, raw, spectacular  a lush, green, veritable ‘paradise lost‘. There is no doubting from the moment you set foot on the tarmac at Kosrae International Airport that you have arrived somewhere special.

Despite being a nearly full flight only half a dozen passengers disembarked at Kosrae. Clearing immigration and customs took just a few minutes. Outside the airport, there was an air of relaxed calm with a few people waiting around to collect arriving family members.

There was also the representative from my hotel – the Pacific Treelodge Resort, one of just two hotels on the island. It was clear I was the only tourist arriving today.

I was later told that the island receives around 300 visitors per year. As is custom when someone arrives on Kosrae, the friendly hotel representative placed a flowery lai on my head. We then set off on a very leisurely drive to the hotel, which was located on the other side of the island.

All visitors to Kosrae receive a flowery lai at the airport.

All visitors to Kosrae receive a flowery lai at the airport.

The first thing you notice on Kosrae is how quiet it is. With a total population of 6,600 inhabitants, the whole island is one big village with very little traffic. The speed limit is set at 25 mph (40 km/h) but locals tend to drive much slower. It’s life in slow motion. And why not? Where are you rushing to?

The only paved road runs along part of the coast, from the airport in the north-west, over the top of the island, down the east coast, through the tiny state capital of Tofol, to the southern town of Utwe. It’s a leisurely one hour drive.

A curious local boy on Kosrae.

A curious local boy on Kosrae.

There is something magical about tiny Kosrae, a magic that comes from the remote, spectacular beauty of the island – a remoteness that ensures you will have the island almost to yourself.

The ‘magic’ comes from the relaxed, slow pace of life, the warmth and gentle nature of the friendly locals. There is an innocence to life on Kosrae which has long been lost in most other parts of the world.

After five days on Kosrae, the island had worked it’s magic on me and if you ever have the chance to visit you too will no doubt experience the magic that is Kosrae. Whatever you do – don’t rush your stay here! 

Location

Located in the central Pacific region, 600 km north of the equator, Kosrae is the most easterly of the four states which comprise the Federated States of Micronesia.

Federated States of Micronesia

Kosrae’s land area is 110 square kilometres sustaining 6,600 people. The population has been declining steadily over the years as more people move elsewhere to find work – especially the USA where Micronesians have the right to live and work. Tofol is the state capital. Mt. Finkol is the highest point at 634 metres.

History

Kosrae hasn’t always been so quiet. The ruined city of Lelu was established around 1250 AD, reaching it’s heyday during the 14th and 15th centuries with a population of 1,500 and covered some 27 hectares. The rulers of Lelu conquered and unified the whole of Kosrae. They ran the island under a hierarchical monarchy system similar to Tonga.

The first Europeans to make contact with the island were the Spanish in 1529 who were sailing from Indonesia to their colony of New Spain in present day Central America. At the time the population of Kosrae was estimated at 6,000 persons. The Spanish took nominal control of the island and since that time the island has passed from Spanish control to German to Japanese to US.

Following the end of WWII in 1945 and the defeat of the occupying Japanese, administration over Kosrae passed to the United States, which ruled the island as part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands.

In 1979 Kosrae joined with the states of Pohnpei, Chuuk and Yap to form a constitutional government, becoming a sovereign state (Federated States of Micronesia) after independence was attained on November 3, 1986 under a Compact of Free Association with the United States.

Flag

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) was adopted on 30 November 1978. The blue field represents the Pacific Ocean, while the four stars represent the states in the federation: Chuuk, Pohnpei, Kosrae and Yap.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

In centuries past, the islands of FSM, notably Yap, used stone currency, which was referred to as “Rai” or “Fei”. Impossibly large and too heavy to carry, this traditional currency, which seemed to be more suited to a giant, was crafted from Calcite, which was carved into doughnut-shaped disks.

Yap Stone Currency.

Yap Stone Currency.
Source: https://medium.com/the-mission/the-island-of-yap-and-the-idea-of-money-9f570421d854

Today, along with all former members of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of FSM is the US dollar which is so much easier to carry.

Sights

The mangrove walkway at the Pacific Tree Lodge resort.

The mangrove walkway at the Pacific Tree Lodge resort.

The best way to get to know the island is to first book a tour with the local fauna and flora expert – Carlos. I organised the tour through Maria at the Pacific Tree Lodge Resort.

Carlos is a native of Puerto Rico who came to Kosrae many years ago as a Peace Corps volunteer. He fell in love with the island and its people and has stayed ever since. Carlos’ enthusiasm for Kosrae’s natural attractions is infectious, and it won’t take long before he has roped you into helping him find the elusive small blue-faced parrot finch (after a day spent searching, I still never saw one).

Curious green lizard.

Curious green lizard.

Wiya Bird Cave

Inside Wiya Bird Cave.

Inside Wiya Bird Cave.

The first stop on our tour was the Wiya Bird Cave, located in Tafunsak (about three miles from the airport).

Swiftlets at the entrance of Wiya Bird cave.

Swiftlets at the entrance of Wiya Bird cave.

The mouth of the cave has a large opening that goes back about 20 metres and is home to thousands of Island Swiftlet birds who have built their nests on the roof of the cave.

Swiftlet nests on the ceiling of Wiya Bird cave.

Swiftlet nests on the ceiling of Wiya Bird cave.

There ceiling is covered in nests and, while these are out of reach, others can be easily found littering the floor of the cave, having become dislodged.

As is the custom in Micronesia, there is an entrance fee payable to the family ($2) whom own the land where the cave is located. You must pay before you enter – their house is along the road from the cave entrance.

A fallen Swiftlet nest collected from the cave floor.

A fallen Swiftlet nest collected from the cave floor.

After the cave Carlos took me down some back roads in search of local wildlife and bird life. Carlos drives a little red Hyundai and it doesn’t take long to realise that this small car seems to possess 4WD capabilities.

Carlos loves bouncing along muddy, dirt tracks, pointing out majestic examples of the soaring native almond tree (used to build the long canoes unique to Kosrae) and other amazing plant life.

Touring the forested interior of Kosrae with Carlos.

Touring the forested interior of Kosrae with Carlos.

After showing me some towering Almond trees, Carlos took me to a place where I could see two of the famed Kosrae canoes. Kosrae canoes are renown in Micronesia as they are much longer than those on other islands since the trees on other islands do not grow as tall and as straight as the Almond tree.

Kosrae canoes are renown for their length as they are constructed from the trunk of the native Almond tree.

Kosrae canoes are renown for their length as they are constructed from the trunk of the native Almond tree.

After he had driven me the length of the island, I invited Carlos to join me for a late lunch at the restaurant at Kosrae Nautilus Resort (see ‘Eating out’ below for more details), where his wife is one of the cooks. He convinced me to order the deluxe burger, which she prepared. It was amazing.

Lelu Ruins

After lunch, Carlos drop me at the nearby Lelu ruins, the main historical and archaeological site on Kosrae. Similar to Nan Madol on neighbouring Pohnpei, Lelu was once a thriving city. The city is built of blocks of coral and basalt. It consists of housing, royal tombs and sacred spaces. Today it’s completely overgrown and visiting it requires you to have a little bit of an Indiana Jones spirit – at least there are no snakes on the island.

The very over-grown Lelu ruins, Kosrae's version of Nan Madol.

The very over-grown Lelu ruins, Kosrae’s version of Nan Madol.

Once you find your way into the complex you will find sections of the old stone walls which are still visible but most of the complex has been reclaimed by nature.

Lelu reached its zenith during the 14th and 15th centuries, with elements still visible at the time of European contact in the early 19th century. The rulers of Lelu gradually conquered and thus unified the island of Kosrae. From their capital, they ruled Kosrae with a monarchy that archaeologists believe was similar to the kingdoms of Tonga and Hawaii.

Since its decline, materials from Lelu have been recycled for other uses throughout Kosrae.

Since its decline, materials from Lelu have been recycled for other uses throughout Kosrae.

Diving

If you’re interested in diving while on the island I would recommend contacting (and diving with) Mark at Dive Kosrae. Mark has been diving on the island for years and is a PADI Dive Instructor who runs Dive Kosrae out of the Pacific Treelodge Resort, of which he is the owner along with wife Maria.

Mark took me on two dives at Hiroshi’s Point on the south side of the island. Because of the topography of the island (i.e. underwater drop-offs), dives on Kosrae tend to be drift dives along walls.

Everything, from the equipment, to Mark’s guidance and expertise, and the fresh tuna steak sandwich for lunch (prepared by the chef at Bully’s) was fantastic.

It was a great day of diving and, due to the low visitor count on the island, we had the reef to ourselves. There is also a dive operation at the Kosrae Nautilus Resort with a resident Dive Master.

Green Banana Paper Company

Once I had finished my dives I treated myself to a screen printed “Dive Kosrae” t-shirt from the Green Banana Paper Company

My "Dive Kosrae" t-shirt, which was screen-printed by the Green Banana Paper Company.

My “Dive Kosrae” t-shirt, which was screen-printed by the Green Banana Paper Company.

During my meander around the island with Carlos, we stopped by the Green Banana Paper Company. This fascinating enterprise was created by Matt Simpson, a young American who originally came to Kosrae as a teaching volunteer. In between teaching and surfing, Matt developed a vision – “to create a company that could help the local community by creating jobs and sustainable products from renewable materials”.

The following images describe the paper making process:  

Step 1. Banana plants arrive at the factory for processing - a sustainable use of old banana trees.

Step 1. Banana plants arrive at the factory for processing – a sustainable use of old banana trees.

Matt certainly has realised his dream and today, the factory produces quality recycled paper which is made using old banana plants (they are plants and not trees).

Step 2. Once unloaded, the banana plants are taken for shredding.

Step 2. Once unloaded, the banana plants are taken for shredding.

Today, the company produces paper from various local plant fibre (banana, taro and pineapple) and recycled paper. This paper is then turned into an array of beautiful items by the company artisans.

Step 3: The shredded plants are laid out to dry.

Step 3: The shredded plants are laid out to dry.

 

Step 4: The dried plant fibre is pulped with recycled paper and laid out to dry on wooden frames.

Step 4: The dried plant fibre is pulped with recycled paper and laid out to dry on wooden frames.

 

Step 5: Once dried, the company artisans transform the paper sheets into wallets, stationary, cards etc

Step 5: Once dried, the company artisans transform the paper sheets into wallets, stationary, cards etc

 

Step 6. The final product, ready for sale at https://greenbananapaper.com/

Step 6. The final product, ready for sale at https://greenbananapaper.com/

Matt has also installed screen-printing equipment and has used his graphic-design skills to design his own range of ‘uniquely Kosrae’ t-shirts. The shirt designs are beautifully unique – a great souvenir of Kosrae.

The factory is located on the main road in the village of Finaunpes and is open for free tours during weekdays. There is an onsite gift shop where you can purchase the beautiful handmade products. The following images provide an overview of the paper making process:

The making of a ‘Dive Kosrae’ t-shirt:

The screen printers' colour palette.

The screen printers’ colour palette.

 

The screen featuring the 'Dive Kosrae' design.

The screen featuring the ‘Dive Kosrae’ design.

`

Screen printing the design onto the t-shirt.

Screen printing the design onto the t-shirt.

 

The applied design on the back of the t-shirt.

The applied design on the back of the t-shirt.

 

The final step - 'curing' the design.

The final step – ‘curing’ the design.

Accommodation

There are just two accommodation options on the island, (both very good but very different) located a short stroll from each other; the Pacific Tree Lodge Resort and Kosrae Nautilus Resort.

Pacific Tree Lodge Resort

The sprawling mangrove swamp at Pacific Treelodge Resort.

The sprawling mangrove swamp at Pacific Treelodge Resort.

I chose to stay at the Pacific Tree Lodge Resort. The resort is owned and operated by an enthusiastic wife and husband team – Maria (Italian) and Mark (American). Located on the main road on the north-east coast, facing the ocean and surrounded by a mangrove swamp, the resort offers spacious rooms laid out around the edge of the mangrove.

It is also home to the #1 restaurant/ bar on Kosrae – Bully’s Bar  (see the ‘Eating out‘ below for more details). Bully’s is also used as a venue for other activities. On the day I arrived, Maria invited me to join the weekly yoga class on the deck of Bully’s overlooking the mangrove. There is a movie night held once a week at Bully’s – complete with popcorn. Basically everything you need is in one place.

The warm, friendly staff at the resort ensure your stay is a memorable one. In between keeping the place spotlessly clean, they use the flowers from the garden to prepare floral lai’s for arriving guests, flower arrangements for the rooms and when in the mood will strum the ukulele in Bully’s and sing enchanting local folk songs. It all forms part of the magic of the island.

Mark and Maria are enthusiastic about everything they do and it shows. Mark operates Dive Kosrae (a “5-star” PADI-rated operation) from the resort. If you are planning on diving while on Kosrae then Mark is your man. Maria is a big fan of the local fauna and flora and was the one who suggested I do a tour with Carlos – one of the highlights of my stay. They are both passionate about recycling and are always finding inventive ways to incorporate locally recycled products into construction materials, which they then use around the resort. In the development pipeline during my visit were building blocks made from PET bottles. These will be used as an ‘anti-termite’ construction material.

Kosrae Nautilus Resort

Joshua by the pool at 'his' property - Kosrae Nautilus Resort.

Joshua by the pool at ‘his’ property – Kosrae Nautilus Resort.

Kosrae Nautilus Resort made worldwide headlines in 2016 when the original Australian owners, who had spent 20 years building up the business, decided to raffle the resort instead of selling it to a rich developer. This created a worldwide frenzy which resulted in the sale of 75,485 tickets at US$49 per ticket in 150 countries.

The lucky winner was Joshua, a 27 year old accountant from Wollongong, Australia. On the evening the owners called Joshua to inform him that he had won a multi-million dollar, 18 room resort, he was at the pub having drinks with some friends. He thought his mates were on the phone playing a joke on him. Little did he realise that at that moment his life was about to change in a monumental way. Joshua had just been handed the keys to a resort which is free of debt, profitable and has more than 20 years remaining on its lease. Joshua first had to look on a map to check where in the world Kosrae was located, then hopped on a plane and the rest is history.

KNR offers an air-conditioned restaurant (important in this part of the world) and the only swimming pool on Kosrae. Surrounding the pool are lush tropical gardens, a vegetable garden (used to supply the restaurant) and eighteen fresh, modern rooms. For those interested in diving, KNR has a dive operation, Nautilus Divers, staffed by a resident Dive Master.

Both hotels can be booked on booking.com

Eating Out

When it comes to produce, Kosrae is blessed in many ways. Because of the rich volcanic soil, the whole island is one big fertile garden. Everywhere you look, you’ll see fruit trees, vegetable gardens and so much more.

A freshly picked Kosrae Tangerine.

A freshly picked Kosrae Tangerine.

The ocean waters surrounding the island provide an abundant supply of fish and as such, are favoured fishing grounds for countries such as Japan, Taiwan, Korea and the US. Tuna is king here but you will also find lobster everywhere on the menu. Whilst I was on the island, I enjoyed the freshest of sushi and sashimi at least once a day.

The awesome 'Sushi Deluxe' special at Bully's - incredible value!

The awesome ‘Sushi Deluxe’ special at Bully’s – incredible value!

There are just two restaurants on Kosrae, one at the Kosrae Nautilus Resort and one at the Pacific Treelodge Resort. The most popular of the two is Bully’s Bar. This restaurant/ bar is named after Bully Hayes, a notorious American-born ship’s captain who was variously described as a pirate, cheap swindler, bully, con man, thief and bigamist. Bully Hayes operated in the Pacific in the mid 19th century and always evaded capture. However he was eventually killed by his cook off the coast of Kosrae in 1877.

The tranquil view of the mangrove from the deck of Bully's restaurant.

The tranquil view of the mangrove from the deck of Bully’s restaurant.

Located on the edge of a lush, green mangrove, Bully’s is part of the Pacific Treelodge Resort. The head chef at Bully’s is a local man who worked for many years in a Japanese restaurant in Waikiki. He returned to Kosrae armed with a whole lot of talent and ideas.

His creations are amazing (especially his freshly prepared ‘sushi deluxe’ platter) and the portions very generous. You can be sure that the sushi/ sashimi at Bully’s is prepared using fresh, local tuna, which is something everyone should get to tantalise their taste buds with at least once in their lifetime.

Pathway through the mangrove to Bully's Bar.

Pathway through the mangrove to Bully’s Bar.

The restaurant can be reached along an elevated pathway, which takes you through the mangrove swamp. The pathway is constructed from concrete slabs, which contain colourful shards of locally recycled glass – another recycling project from Mark and Maria.

Located at the front of Kosrae Nautilus Resort, and facing the ocean, is the one other dining option on Kosrae.

Food here is also very good and since there are just two choices on the island there is a good chance you’ll end up eating here at some stage. At KNR, you have the choice of dining in air-conditioned comfort inside the restaurant or outside by the swimming pool. As with Bully’s, you will dine on the freshest of local seafood. The resort has its own vegetable garden to supply the restaurant with the freshest produce possible.

Visa Requirements

Kosrae Passport Stamps.

Kosrae Passport Stamps.

Some nationalities require visas for the Federated States of Micronesia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Kosrae International Airport.

Kosrae International Airport.

Flights to Kosrae arrive at Kosrae International Airport, which is dramatically located on a slice of reclaimed land across a channel from the main island.

The airport is connected to the mainland by an ornate, balustraded, white-marble bridge which was a ‘gift’ of the government of China since the government of the FSM chooses to do business with China, rather than Taiwan.

The United Airlines 'Island Hopper' - UA154 - at Kosrae International Airport.

The United Airlines ‘Island Hopper’ – UA154 – at Kosrae International Airport.

United Airlines’ Island Hopper

There is only one way to reach Kosrae and that’s aboard United Airlines famous ‘Island Hopper‘ – flight UA154.

The Island Hopper essentially performs a huge milk run across the central pacific, connecting Hawaii with the Marshall Islands, Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk then finally Guam – a journey of 6,117 kilometres (3801 miles) stopping at some of the remotest islands on planet earth.

The 'Island Hopper' departure board at Kosrae airport.

The ‘Island Hopper’ departure board at Kosrae airport.

It’s an essential service, but also a monopoly operation, so tickets are not cheap. United Airlines are part of the Star Alliance network. If you’re a member of a Star Alliance program, using points instead of paying cash can be a lot more reasonable.

For complete coverage of UA154, from Hawaii to Guam, please refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping report.

Departing Kosrae on United Airlines "Island Hopper" UA154.

Departing Kosrae on United Airlines “Island Hopper” UA154.

Getting Around

Bus

There are no buses on Kosrae.

Taxi

There are three small taxi companies operating on the island.

Car

Cars can be rented through either of the two hotels or through agents in Tofol. I rented a car through Pacific Tree Lodge Resort at $30 per day. One day is sufficient to explore the entire island.

The license plate of my rental car on Kosrae.

The license plate of my rental car on Kosrae.

One quirk on the island is that cars are never refuelled directly from a petrol pump, but rather from one gallon containers, which have been filled from the pumped. It was explained to me that locals don’t trust what they can’t see so they will not use a pump.

Refuelling 'Kosrae style'.

Refuelling ‘Kosrae style’.

 


That’s the end of my Kosrae Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide Kosrae Travel Guide

Marshall Islands Travel Guide

Traditional Boat Building workshop in Majuro.

Marshall Islands Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Marshall Islands Travel Guide!

Date Visited: January 2017

Introduction

Yokwe! Welcome to the very remote Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI).

Located across the International date line, five and a half hours flight west of Hawaii. RMI is the first stop on the epic United Airlines Island Hopper (UA154) – a 14 hour, all stops, meander through the central Pacific from Honolulu to Guam. For more on UA154, check out my Central Pacific island hopping blog. The official currency of RMI is the US dollar.

United Airlines Island Hopper (UA154) departing from Kwajelein.

United Airlines Island Hopper (UA154) departing from Kwajelein.

RMI has a total population of 60,000. The capital and main hub, with a population of 27,700, is Majuro. Here you’ll find the international airport, shops, restaurants, hotels and all services. The highest point on Majuro is at a giddy 3 metres – this can be reached by walking to the top of the Majuro Bridge. There is just one road on the atoll so you will not require Google maps.

A wrecked, US, WWII-era plane, off the beach of Enemanit Island.

A wrecked, US, WWII-era plane, off the beach of Enemanit Island.
Image Source: Huffington Post

The real attractions of RMI lie offshore on the myriad islands where you’ll find great diving, snorkeling and fishing.

Location

Majuro Atoll, RMI

Located in the middle of nowhere halfway between Hawaii and Australia and north of Kiribati, RMI is made up of two parallel island chains; the Ratak (sunrise) and the Ralik (sunset). The country consists of 29 atolls and 5 islands – the tops of ancient, submerged volcanoes.  RMI is the most easterly part of Micronesia .

The largest piece of real estate in this part of the world is Kwajalein Island. ‘Kwaj’ is a restricted US Army base, built on land the US government has leased from the RMI since pre-independence days. UA154 makes a stop here but non-military personnel are not allowed to disembark. The island is home to the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defence Test Site.

The highest point on Majuro (3 metres), the Majuro Bridge connects Delap island to Long island.<br /> <i>Image Source: TripAdvisor</i>

The highest point on Majuro (3 metres), the Majuro Bridge connects Delap island to Long island.
Image Source: TripAdvisor

History

A 'Stick chart' in Majuro. These were used in ancient times for navigational purposes.

A ‘Stick chart’ in Majuro. These were used in ancient times for navigational purposes.

It is believed the RMI was originally settled around 1,500 B.C. by Micronesian’s, migrating from the west. The first Europeans to make contact with the islands were the Spanish in 1529. They were passing through on a return voyage from their colony in the Philippines to Acapulco, Mexico. The British were the next visitors – mapping the islands in 1788 under the direction of British naval captains Thomas Gilbert and John Marshall, for whom the islands are named (Kiribati to the south used to be known as the Gilbert Islands).

The islands remained largely untouched by Europeans until the Germans arrived in 1878 and set up a coaling station. They declared the islands a German protectorate. The Japanese seized the islands in 1914 and held onto them until WWII at which point they became major battle grounds until US forces prevailed and liberated the islands.

View of Majuro from my Nauru Airlines flight to Kiribati.

View of Majuro from my Nauru Airlines flight to Kiribati.

In 1947, all former Pacific islands occupied by Japan were grouped together to form the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands  – administered by the United States. The Trust Territory included Palau, Guam, The Northern Mariana islands, Federated States of Micronesia and the Marshall Islands.

In 1978 the Marshallese voted to leave the trust territory, declaring independence in 1979 with Amata Kabua being elected as its first president.

For a more comprehensive overview of the history of RMI, you can refer to Wikipedia.

Bikini Atoll

From atomic bombs….

Atomic bomb test at Bikini atoll.

Atomic bomb test at Bikini atoll.
Image Source: Wikipedia.

Following WWII, US President, Harry S. Truman, issued a directive to US army and navy officials that testing of nuclear weapons would be necessary to determine the effect of atomic bombs on US warships. Due to its remote location, well removed from international flight paths and shipping lanes, Bikini Atoll had the misfortune of being selected as the site for such tests. The only problem were the 167 local residents.

On a quiet Sunday in 1946, the then US governor to the Marshall Islands, visited Bikini and, after the local church service had finished, asked the islanders if they would be willing to vacate the island temporarily. They have never been able to return home.

Once the island had been vacated, the US military relocated 242 warships, 156 aircraft and 25,000 radiation recording devices to Bikini ready for testing. Between 1946 and 1958, 23 nuclear devices were detonated at Bikini, some underwater, some on land and others in the air. The largest detonation was from ‘Castle Bravo‘, which resulted in a staggering 15 megaton yield (a megaton is equivalent to one million tons of TNT). The bomb was 1,000 times more powerful than the bombs dropped on Hiroshima or Nagasaki. In total, the 23 tests yielded a combined 42.2 megatons of explosive power. The tests completely destroyed and contaminated this once pristine tropical paradise, rendering it unfit for habitation.

In the meantime the islanders, who had been transported on a US Navy boat 200-km to Rongerik atoll, were struggling to survive as the island offered no arable land for farming nor a reliable water supply. They were eventually relocated to another atoll, but not before some had died from starvation. Today you can visit the Bikini atoll town hall on Majuro.

…to skimpy swimsuits!

The Bikini gets its name from Bikini atoll.

The Bikini gets its name from Bikini atoll.
Image Source: Vogue Magazine

Meanwhile, in 1946, a Parisian engineer by the name of Louis Reard, had just created a skimpy two-piece swimsuit and was looking for a catchy name. In the headlines at the time was news of the nuclear testing at Bikini atoll. The rest is history.

Flag

Marshall Islands Flag

Marshall Islands Flag

Designed by Emlain Kabua, who served as the first First Lady of the Marshall Islands, the flag of the Marshall Islands consists of a blue field with two diagonal stripes of orange and white radiating from the lower hoist-side corner to the upper fly-side corner and the large white star with four large rays and twenty small rays on the upper hoist-side corner above the stripes.

Like other flags of the Pacific, the blue field represents the Pacific ocean. The rising diagonal band represents the equator, the star above representing this Northern Hemisphere archipelago.

The white and orange portions of the band represent, respectively, the Ratak Chain (“sunrise”) and the Ralik Chain (“sunset”). The star’s 24 points represent the number of electoral districts, while the four elongated points represent the principal cultural centres of Majuro, Jaluit, Wotje and Ebeye.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

As with other Pacific nations, which were once part of the United States-administered Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of the Marshall Islands is the US dollar.

Sightseeing

Majuro

Traditional Boat Building workshop in Majuro.

Traditional Boat Building workshop in Majuro.

Majuro is a quiet, relaxing place. Apart from one tiny museum, there are no sights to visit, but the experience here is to soak up the ambience of the atoll and plan trips to the nearby islands. I rented a scooter, which allowed me to explore the entire atoll.

It’s a long drive to the last village of Laura (named by US GIs in honour of Lauren Bacall). On the way, you will pass through the equally sleepy village of Rita – (also named by US GIs after Rita Hayworth). You will also pass a Copra processing plant which you can visit (weekdays only).

Adjacent to the Marshall Islands Resort is a traditional boat building workshop. Early Micronesian’s were skilled boat builders and navigators who made long canoe journeys among the atolls. Navigation was made by way of ‘stick charts’. At the workshop, you can observe the art of traditional boat building and have someone explain how to use a stick chart. Who needs Google maps?

If you wish to rent snorkeling gear or arrange diving, there is a dive shop at the Marshall Islands Resort, operated by a Japanese dive master.

Around Majuro

A relaxing Sunday at Enemanit Island, which is located a short boat ride from Majuro.

A relaxing Sunday at Enemanit Island, which is located a short boat ride from Majuro.

There are various offshore islands you can visit from Majuro. Arno island can be reached using the ferry from Robert Reimers Hotel (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below). There is one basic guest house on Arno.

A highlight of my visit to Majuro was a Sunday trip to nearby Enemanit island. The island was once used as an R&R base for US soldiers and it’s said Bob Hope once performed on stage here. The remains of the stage are still visible. Today, Enemanit is a private island owned by Jerry Kramer, a local businessman – originally from the US – who,  over the last decades, has built up a collection of successful businesses, which now span the Pacific. Despite his success and the fact that he owns his own tropical island, Jerry is very unpretentious and grounded and is a great personality.

Spending a day with Jerry, his family and friends was a memorable experience. I was treated to a BBQ lunch, lots of beers and great conversation on the beautiful sandy beach. Jerry runs a boat every Sunday morning from the dock of his shipping company (PII) to the island. Friends and visitors are welcome to join him. If you are interested you should inquire at the office of Pacific International Inc (PII) on the northern side of the Majuro bridge.

A pristine beach on Enemanit Island.

A pristine beach on Enemanit Island.

A highlight of a visit to Enemanit Island is the opportunity to snorkel above the remains of a wrecked passenger plane, which lies in shallow waters 100 metres off the beach. A few metres in front of the plane is a wrecked helicopter – all great stuff. Ensure you bring your own gear.

Accommodation

The view of Majuro lagoon from my room at the Marshall Island's Resort.

The view of Majuro lagoon from my room at the Marshall Island’s Resort.

There are few hotels on Majuro – the largest, with 80% of beds on the island – is the Marshall Islands Resort (MIR). Being the biggest fish in a very small pond, most tourists (including myself) end up staying here. Formerly an outrigger resort, the hotel has seen better days. The rooms are old and tired, the pool is permanently closed due to problems with the filtering system, service is very lax, staff are less than enthusiastic and not very helpful. The hotel restaurant is the largest on Majuro and hence is THE place for celebrations/ functions. Food and service is hit and miss. Anywhere else this hotel would not be so busy but there are few other choices on tiny Majuro.

One other choice is the much smaller Hotel Robert Reimers. The staff here are much friendlier and more helpful – this was my ‘go-to’ place whenever I needed information. The hotel is conveniently located downtown and includes the best restaurant/ bar on Majuro – Tide Table (see ‘Eating Out‘ below for more). You can book either of these hotels using Booking.com

Eating Out

Weekly farmer's market in Majuro.

Weekly farmer’s market in Majuro.

The best bar and restaurant on Majuro is Tide Table, part of the Robert Reimers Hotel complex. With an array of flat screen TV’s on the walls, it has the feel of an American sports bar. The menu could also be best described as Sports Bar cuisine. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the burgers and pizzas are especially good. Happy hour is very popular and a great way to meet local expats.

The offerings at the Marshall Islands Resort restaurant are OK. This is the biggest restaurant on Majuro so you’ll probably end up here at some stage.

There is a weekly farmer’s market held every Saturday morning in downtown Majuro. On offer here, is fresh local produce grown on farms at the northern end of the atoll near the town of Laura.

Visa Requirements

Marshall Islands Passport stamps.

Marshall Islands Passport stamps.

Some nationalities require visas for the Marshall Islands – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

Sleepy Majuro Airport, gateway to the Marshall Islands.

Sleepy Majuro Airport, gateway to the Marshall Islands.

By Air

 

Arrival at Majuro airport.

Arrival at Majuro airport.

All flights to Majuro arrive at Amata Kabua International Airport. For more details on the airport, refer to my Central Pacific island hopping guide.

Departing from Majuro.

Departing from Majuro.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Majuro:

Departing from Majuro Airport.

Departing from Majuro Airport.

Getting Around

Bus

There are no public buses on the island. Hotels operate minibus shuttles to/ from the airport.

Taxi

Shared taxis are the sole form of public transport on Majuro. They run shuttle services along the one main road between the airport and downtown. You never have to wait too long and they’ll go out of their way to drop you off at your front door. Fares are 0.50c for anywhere downtown or $4 for the 20 minute trip to the airport.

Ferry

Ferries to nearby islands, including Arno Island, operate from the dock at Robert Reimer’s. Best to ask the hotel reception staff for the current schedule.

Car

A Marshall Islands license plate.

A Marshall Islands license plate.

Hotels and various other companies offer hire cars on Majuro. I hired a scooter at $25 per day from MJCC (Marshall Japan Construction Company) in downtown Majuro.

The best way to explore Majuro is with a rental scooter.

The best way to explore Majuro is with a rental scooter.

 


That’s the end of my Marshall Islands Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

 

Marshall Islands Travel Guide Marshall Islands Travel Guide Marshall Islands Travel Guide Marshall Islands Travel Guide Marshall Islands Travel Guide Marshall Islands Travel Guide